# Auto-purge of an AM 1000 CO2 reactor...



## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Don't know if this is something that people are already doing or whether there's a reason people are not doing it...

I use the Aqua Medic 1000 external CO2 reactor on several setups. Depending on the set-up and CO2 settings, I usually get from time to time a small to large bubble of gas (CO2 and/or O2) in the top part of the reactor.

The AM 1000 comes with a purge valve on top so up until now I've attached a short tube to this and purged the thing into a jug from time to time because the noise was driving me nuts. Plus I would guess that the efficiency of the reactor is reduced when this bubble is present.

Then in reading about Tom Barr's internal venturi reactor I thought why not try something similar here? I attached a 1.5m length of silicone tubing to the purge valve and ran this tubing back into the aquarium. By leaving the purge valve open slightly, any excess gas buildup automatically escapes up the tubing and into the aquarium; no more gas buildup!  

On another setup I'm going to do the same thing but instead of bringing the purge tube into the aquarium, I'll plumb it into the return hose after the reactor using a T fitting (similar to what I'm using for auto dosing ferts). This should work as well.

Please don't tell me that this is what everyone was doing with the purge mechanism of the AM 1000 anyway! ](*,) 

Don't know why it took me so long to try this... getting old


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## imatrout (May 12, 2005)

Hi Laith,

I too use the AM 1000. My AM 1000 is plumbed externally in the cabinet below the tank and I have the return pluumbed into one of my returns. Flow is restricted throm the AM 1000 because the hose is reduced from 3/4 to the 1/2 in AM 1000 hose nipples. have a different question. Do you ever worry abou the AM 1000 cracking, leaking or a seal giving out that might cause a complete draining of the tank? I hate to jinx myself, but I've always worried about this and am thinking about putting it inside the tank.

Comments?

Thanks!


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

If the reactor is plumbed into the return (water flow from filter, through reactor and into tank) then if the reactor sprung a leak, the tank would only drain as low as the return in the tank. If you are using a spray bar located near the top of the aquarium, very little would drain out.

Some people when worrying about sumps, filters, etc leaking and draining a tank through the drain from the tank (which is usually located near the bottom of the tank) often drill a hole in that line an inch or 2 below the water surface. This means that the water will drain down until it hits that hole and then the suction will be broken.


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## imatrout (May 12, 2005)

Thanks Dennis,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying relative to my situation. My tank drains from the bottom. I have 4 holes, 2 suction, 2 returns. If anything broke down there, suction or not, I think the whole tank would drain. If I do move my Reactor into the tank, I'll be at less risk because I'll power the reactor with a submewrible pump that I'll attach 2 inches from the surface. If I'm not getting itg, please let me know. Any way to limit leak risk makes me feel better. 

I just went through an episode of changing my suction screen with the tank full and in the process loosened the bulkhead. The tank started leaking and I couldn't tighten it as it was under 5 in. of gravel and some gravel got in between the washer and glass so I gouldn't stop the leak by tightening it from the bottom. The result, I had to drain the entire tank immediately. No fun.


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

Note to self, no bottom drilled aquariums Sorry about all that trout, definately sounds like no fun. That's the kind of thing that would keep me awake at night.

Your powerhead idea sounds like a good solution, although you could have the power head in the tank but the reactor hanging off the back, to minimize hardware in the tank itself. So all you drains and returns are drilled in the bottom? I would think you would want some surface movement, a little is a good thing actually, especially at night.

Can you describe or show photos of your setup, mabybe we can all help you figure out how to minimize leaks. We should start a new thread though, I have already hijacked Laith's enough


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

Laith,

Your purge idea sounds like a good one.


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

L-

I suggested this several weeks ago.

Adding a piece on teh inside of the purge valve will allow you to do this.

Connect to a piece of silicone tubing and run it back into the spray bar like a power head venturi or feed it into a powerhead suction side etc.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

I know, but it took me a while to grasp the concept  .

Also with the AM1000 no need to drill a hole in the reactor; just attach some silicone tubing...

I really like this solution now. In the past whenever I tried to crank up the CO2 levels I'd get this bubble at the top of the reactor (perhaps the Eheim 2026 doesn't have enough flow) and it would start sounding like a waterfall!

Now no worries about that  .


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

Good, about time folks started trying this.
Many have reported excellent results and better CO2 levels and lower pH's.
Hence more pearling, more weed growth etc.

The venturi loop can be used on any reactor, canister filter system etc and improves flow rates, response times, gas build up etc.

Cures cancer I hear also and sets the vibrational energy of the tank to improve the balance and harmony of the ecosystem.

Regards, 
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com


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## imatrout (May 12, 2005)

Laith: Sorry about the hijack
Dennis: New Thread "Plumbing"



dennis said:


> Note to self, no bottom drilled aquariums Sorry about all that trout, definately sounds like no fun. That's the kind of thing that would keep me awake at night.
> 
> Your powerhead idea sounds like a good solution, although you could have the power head in the tank but the reactor hanging off the back, to minimize hardware in the tank itself. So all you drains and returns are drilled in the bottom? I would think you would want some surface movement, a little is a good thing actually, especially at night.
> 
> Can you describe or show photos of your setup, mabybe we can all help you figure out how to minimize leaks. We should start a new thread though, I have already hijacked Laith's enough


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## RedDelPaPa (May 18, 2005)

imatrout said:


> Hi Laith,
> 
> I too use the AM 1000. My AM 1000 is plumbed externally in the cabinet below the tank and I have the return pluumbed into one of my returns. Flow is restricted throm the AM 1000 because the hose is reduced from 3/4 to the 1/2 in AM 1000 hose nipples. have a different question. Do you ever worry abou the AM 1000 cracking, leaking or a seal giving out that might cause a complete draining of the tank? I hate to jinx myself, but I've always worried about this and am thinking about putting it inside the tank.
> 
> ...


Build a reactor from shd 40 PVC. Then you'll never have to worry again about it breaking or leaking. A reactor built from this will never, ever come apart. Plus, you can build a better reactor than that am1000 anyway, and a whole lot cheaper.


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## shalu (Oct 1, 2004)

plantbrain said:


> Many have reported excellent results and better CO2 levels and lower pH's.
> Hence more pearling, more weed growth etc.


But I thought it was the fact that more CO2 remaining in gas form that promoted better growth, more pearling... not more CO2 dissolved in water, how can ph be lower.


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

Depends on where you add the venturi................

In a sump design like Mike's 180, it knocked the pH down by 0.3-0.4 pH units.

It weas recircultated and fed back into the powerhead driving the CO2 reactor instead of misting.

Regards, 
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com


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## shalu (Oct 1, 2004)

ah, ok. We are talking about different effects. I might need to do the same to purge out the gas in reactor to make it more efficient, even though I don't have trouble getting high CO2.


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