# Anubias disease



## Newt

I have had this Anubias barteri 'coffeefolia' for some 20 years. A short time back the rear leaves (at the stump) began to turn yellow. I removed them w/o much thought. Then I noticed the plant just wasnt as green as it had always been. Upon closer examination I found this brown 'crud' on the rhizome and at the base of the leaves. With heavy brown crud accumulation where the leaf attaches to the rhizome the leaf rots and falls off. I have plucked the plant several times and cut away all the brown I could see hoping that would take care of the issue. The plant is still suffering so I dosed the brown crud with excel and was able to scrape it away with my finger nail. It also has small brown clumps here and there on the roots and this doesnt seem to scrape away.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be at a loss if I loose this plant and just may become so disappointed that I might give up the hobby I've done for 40+ years.

The pictures arent great as I bumped my camera awhile back it it doesnt focus the way it should; especially for close-ups.


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## Newt

Seems the site wont accept my JPG's and all are under 203KB.

I'll try later.


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## HeyPK

Site is having trouble right now with attached thumbnails. It still works OK with a link to a picture stored somewhere. I'd like to see a picture of this brown crud problem.


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## Newt

I'll try uploading to photobucket.
Thanks


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## Newt




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## JeffyFunk

Check out the following website:

http://www.anubias-engl.blogspot.com/

Unfortunately, things don't sound good for you from what I've read. The latest article just happens to correspond to anubia diseases.


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## Andy Ritter

Hey Newt,

I hate to hear that you're having problems with your coffeefolia. I've actually been waiting for you to post some more progeny for sale so I could buy some to try and grow in my tank. This explains why I haven't seen you list any lately. I hope that you're able to defeat this issue and nurse your plants back to health. If not, I certainly hope that you won't quit aquatic gardening altogether. Things like this happen, but it's not the end of the world. If you do end up losing all that you have, I would bet that if you contact the people that you've sold offspring to and asked to buy back some of theirs, that you'd be able to start over again.

Good luck,

Andy


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## Newt

Ughhhhhh!!!

Andy, thanks for the words of support. I have a couple of stubs in a 5 gal plus this one leader I have left and will be experimenting. I've enjoyed this plant so much and the flowers it put out on a regular basis. Its been the center piece of my tank for so long.


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## Tex Gal

Sounds like it's contagious. Wonder if you'd have to sterilize your tanks in which the plants were housed. If it's bacterial, or fungal I wonder how long the contagion can remain in the tank once you remove the plants? Is only the coffeefolia affected? Do you have any other anubias plants in the same tank/s? So sorry this is happening!


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## ddavila06

looks like some sort of yucky bacteria feeding on it... was there a lot of crap around where the rizhome is...? hope it survives, coffefolia is one of my favorites! =)


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## Newt

Its only affecting the 'coffeefolia'.
No other Anubias in the tank.

The crud only appears on the plant and starts at the stub/stump end. Odd that it works its way from the stump end to the leader end.

All I know is that my problems began with a batch of KNO3 that really smelled bad and it tested positive for ammonia. Seller said it was normal and OK to use. I knew it was not normal for KNO3 to smell. Almost lost my P. erectus (diff problem) until I began using a new batch from a differnet supplier.


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## Tex Gal

Have you tried cutting off all the affected area with a little extra to boot? When you cut it do you see anything inside the stem?


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## Newt

I've tried pruning it back several times and thought I had it all. The final point of the stub had no appearent rot internally.


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## Tex Gal

How about bleach in case it's fungus on the outside or bacteria - after trimming...

Just wondering...


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## Newt

I just tried Excel and scraped off as much as I could with my finger nail. I'll be trying different things as long as I have the 3 living pieces. I have 2 stubs in a 5 gal tank with low light. The low light doesnt seem to make a difference. The crud I scraped off felt gritty/sandy and diatoms came to mind.


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## BruceF

I think you might try growing it in clean untreated water for a while. I don’t know what your water is like but I would think the chlorine and such might help. I would imagine the problem is probably endemic to the aquarium itself. Clean the plant every day and change the water, maybe add a little fertilizer. Just my two cents.


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## Newt

My town uses chloramine (chlorine + ammonia). I use whole house filters. the dirt and sediment take it down to 5 microns and the carbon block down to 1 micron.

I do a 100% water change in the 5 gal tank that has 2 infected stumps. I have been able to get the leaves to turn greener.

I need to find what the brown crud doesnt like.

*I would appreciate it if people could send me their anubias stumps.*


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## Zapins

You could use methylene blue, or copper sulfate, or potassium permanganate dips. Those all kill fungus. Though dipping them in these solutions might not really help that much if the fungus has infected the rhizome and is living inside it. Who knows though maybe its just on the outside for the most part? 

I'm actually really shocked to hear of this anubias disease. Especially since it appears to infect them submersed as well as emersed. I was under the impression that there were virtually 0 aquatic plant diseases when grown submersed, but I stand corrected. Hope I never get the disease.


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## Tex Gal

Newt. Pxs of the coffeefolia you sent me. You can see the two new shoots that are springing up from where I stripped of the leaves and nicked the rhizome. I just nicked it in two more places. It's doing great. Should have some in about a month, I suppose.

The piece I got from you I broke into two pieces. I have another piece that is about 3" also nicked. Both have leaders. Pardon the color, but Metal Hallides are on.


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## Newt

It looks to be very healthy. Good work.:fish2:


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## ddavila06

did you ever find out what was happening to ur plant????
i am having a similar issue... :

about a week and a half i did my water change and treated with excel afterwards as usual (1.5 the suggested dose or so), later that week i saw one coffefolia leaf melting and thought to myself "dang, must have hit the anubia straight up with excel..." yesterday i noticed some loose leaves so now while water changing i checked and noticed the rizhome (the end part with new leaves) is melting off.....doesnt look brown as in yours! i doubt is excel...any clues????.........


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## Newt

Rhizome disease/rot.

More ino here>
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ts-discussions/82258-anubias-looking-bad.html

I have improved the health of what is left of my plant by cutting off affected parts and treating with excel. I have slowed the disease but the plant grows too slow to make good progress.


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## ddavila06

uhmm....interesting. dont know if its the same as this seemed to have started at the leaf and spread to the rizhome... and the rizhome stayed clear. regardless is good reading and i cut off the bad rizhome and will check again and cut more if needed. i hope it doesnt spread to other anubias in my tank......... Thanks!!!


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## Newt

Here's a picture of my coffeefolia in better days gone bye>


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## Newt

Here's some more ifo on the blight>
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/10.1094/PDIS.2003.87.8.1005C


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## DeChaoOrdo

I am very fascinated by this. Do you have any of the affected rhizome left you'd be willing to send me so I could look at it under a microscope and try to bug the aquatic botanist at my work to have a look at?

Also, if you continue to have problems you might want to see if baking soda on the ends where the fungus was helps. I've used baking soda to treat black rot on plumeria cuttings with a good deal of success.


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## thefisherman

do i understand correctly that this is untreatable? is it contageous?! do i have to break down my nano?! 


Sent from my iPhone


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## Newt

No known cure. I have had luck removing all visible affected (brown) parts and drizzling Excel all over it and letting it sit for 2-3 mins before returning to the tank. As for contagious, I have an anubias nana petite and another 'coffefolia' I added about 3 months ago and both are unaffected.


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## kiddjam

Newt said:


> No known cure. I have had luck removing all visible affected (brown) parts and drizzling Excel all over it and letting it sit for 2-3 mins before returning to the tank. As for contagious, I have an anubias nana petite and another 'coffefolia' I added about 3 months ago and both are unaffected.


Hi Newt

I concluded my Anubias got this disease from me introducing a cheap piece of wood-tighted nana, from a LFS, 3 Nana attached to drift wood covered with mosses, sh!tty dirt cheap. Because I am lazy first and the price is ok, so I bought two. 
I wash a bit before I put them in the tank, and they just freaking drop leaves at the rate of 1 to 2 leaf daily after 3 days I put them in. 
First I thought it was emersed form, but after a week or so, they freaking die off, I picked one up, the rhizome was melted, smell really really really bad... That is the start of all my Anubias problems.

*MY tank condition/spec:* 120 liter, CO2 two bubbles/Min, 80 watts of light 7200k-12000k, 25 Celsius, pH 6-7, Cabinet filter 800L/H Biological + 1300L/H pure Mechanical filtration.
*Base material:* ADA Amazonia New, ADA W & P, ADA Bacter 100, bogwood+stones.
*Trust worthy stuffs:* Seachem Prime, Stability, Excel, Paraguard, Cupramine, Matrix 1L.

I got Anubias *Nana*, Nana "*Petite*", Nana "*Stardust*", Nana "*Golden*", Nana "*Round leaf*", Anubias *Congensis*, Anubias *Gracillis*, Anubias *Afzellis*.
NEVER had an Anubias barteri *Coffeefolia*, but I wish I have one, before this disease thingy is fixed 4ever!!!!!!!!!!!

_Bad news_, they WILL be affected, especially small ones, I quarantine all my Anubias species, I got lots of(expensive) Nana Petite and nana stardust, and half of them die slowly within 16 days, I change the quarantine tank's water every two days.

My situation is kind of similar to yours and everyone else, it seems there are two conditions, either start rotting from root/rhizome, or from leaf.

I experience both at the same freaking time, I hate it.

*Symptoms:* mostly just melt away, became soft from leaf to stem, and some start dying from rhizome became like mush, you can sqeeze white melted tissue out from the rhizome tube.. desgusting and labor intensive just to maintain them.
I just remove the rest and now wish me luck.

I have now learnt so much from watching my precious Anubias Varieties dies and dies with no cure, much like cancer, oh BTW, I also have some freaking expensive Bucephalandra dies, also very small when purchased.

By watching all my Anubias, examine each one of them, by different species, I found that the following species are some how immune to the bacteria/disease/fungus: Anubias Congensis, Anubias Gracillis, Anubias Afzellis.

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I came up with some methods to detect the early sign of this cancer-like disease:
*1> by visual inspections:*
*1A>* relatively bigger white spot on stem base
*1B>* blowing-up-water-filled like stem and rhizome, specially stems
*1C>* brownish root tip, root spot, or soften new root
*1D>* brownish color on stem, even when the leaf is clean and looks ok or feel sturdy
*1E>* the back of the leaf, spotty/dotted leaf back/dorsal, losing lines
*1F>* transparent root
*1G>* no new bud or leaf growth in 10 days

*2> by handling the plant:*
*2A>* try to break the suspected rhizome, if it feels like non-fresh vegetable you bought from last week, your Anubias will soon to have problems
*2B>* pull the suspected leaf, if it's a non-firm leaf, it will not get back to its original position, and easy to pull away, this is a sign too
*2C>* touch/rub the rhizome with your fingers, if you feel it is sticky and can scrub off some green, clear or brownish crud, it is no good

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Last night, I use 100% bleach to sanitize the scissor, and to drown the trimmed anubias plants in for 10 seconds, and now let us wait for 3 days, see if things work out OK...

Hope it helps
Cheers


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## bamboosharkbark

Newt said:


> My town uses chloramine (chlorine + ammonia). I use whole house filters. the dirt and sediment take it down to 5 microns and the carbon block down to 1 micron.
> 
> I do a 100% water change in the 5 gal tank that has 2 infected stumps. I have been able to get the leaves to turn greener.
> 
> I need to find what the brown crud doesnt like.
> 
> *I would appreciate it if people could send me their anubias stumps.*


Sounds Like you're using RO water? That can melt anubias, see this youtube video.

If the epidermis of submersed aquatic plants are damaged they become susceptible to fungi like r.solani which I believe was the culprit. If it was being melted by the RO water then it could enter the plant through any wounds from a weakened epidermis despite it being in it's submersed form. I read that in submersed form plants will not have functioning stomates, the stomata is usually the spot where a fungus like r. solani will enter when a plant is grown out of water. I think if the rhizome is burried, damaged or melted by RO water then the fungus can enter the plant because of openings in the epidermis.



Newt said:


> Its only affecting the 'coffeefolia'.
> No other Anubias in the tank.
> 
> The crud only appears on the plant and starts at the stub/stump end. Odd that it works its way from the stump end to the leader end.
> 
> All I know is that my problems began with a batch of KNO3 that really smelled bad and it tested positive for ammonia. Seller said it was normal and OK to use. I knew it was not normal for KNO3 to smell. Almost lost my P. erectus (diff problem) until I began using a new batch from a differnet supplier.


Don't know what to make of this and I think the RO water may be to blame. KNO3 will usually smell bad won't it?

Check out some of the last posts in my emersed anubias thread. Ive referenced these findings to some journals so what I've said comes from those articles I researched.


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## Newt

I do not use R.O. water.
My water is soft but has nothing to due with my filtration.
I add GH booster with water changes.
I've had the coffeefolia for 20 yrs.

Thanks for your pointers.


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## bamboosharkbark

How's it doing now? If it's still showing some signs of being infected why don't you try dosing potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3) and share the results. The potassium helps to prevent disease and KHCO3 is known as an antifungal. Some people dose it for potassium but it might buffer ou your water so make sure you dose appropraitely for the fish and other plants. anubias would probly not mind the pH increase as I've read they actually come from hard water environments in Africa. I can't get a hold of any KHCO3 myself atm...


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## thefisherman

its soo funny you poste this because i just started dosing Thrive K, liquid potasium supplement and both my hygros and anubias seem to be more vibrant and healthier. its too soon to post results but i will definately update 


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## bamboosharkbark

yeah thanks for the reply, I'm convinced from my research [Erper, Turkkan, Karaca and Kılıcpp, 8605-8612] that there could be way of treating the condition with KHCO3 not just because of the potassium but because the fungus in question (probably R. Solani) and many other soil fungi cannot stand the buffering effect of the potassium bicarbonate. I read [Erper, Turkkan, Karaca and Kılıcpp, 8605-8612] that these fungi cannot grow when pH rises above ~ 8.4. This is high but anubias can go up to 8.6.

Take a look at this excerpt from the Ismail Erper, Muharrem Turkkan, Gürsel H. Karaca and Gülay Kılıc, 'Evaluation of in vitro antifungal activity of potassium bicarbonate on Rhizoctonia solani AG 4 HG-I, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum and Trichoderma sp.', African Journal of Biotechnology (2011) Vol. 10(43), ISSN 1684-5315 © 2011 Academic Journals, at pp. 8611:


"Soil fungi are more active under acidic pH values
(Ordonez et al., 2009). Previous studies showed that pH
changes of medium due to use of bicarbonates prevented
or stimulated the mycelial growth of fungi (Punja and
Grogan 1982; Palmer et al., 1997). S. rolfsii showed
optimal mycelial growth and sclerotial germination at low
pH (3.0-5.5), while no growth occur above pH (8.0).
Preventive effect of potassium bicarbonate on mycelial
growth of soil pathogens may be partially explained by
pH changes, which became more alkaline as bicarbonate
concentration increased. Our result showed that S.
sclerotiorum could not grow at pH 8.3 (at 100mM
KHCO3), and R. solani could not grow at pH 8.4 (at
750mM KHCO3). Increasing concentrations of KHCO3
caused growth reduction of both fungal strains. Similar
inhibition effects were observed for B. cinerea when
exposed to 20 mM of KHCO3 (Palmer et al., 1997).
Bicarbonates may also affect membrane permeability and
change physiological processes such as oxidative​phosphorylation [Olivier et al., 1998]. "​
Based on this data the conditions with KHCO3 will at least severely inhibit the growth of the fungi. 
In my opinion the plant the increase in potassium available to the anubias will also help strengthen it's cell wall and epidermis, helping it to recover.

I'll try concentrations of KHCO3 on some anubias and four or more other aquatic plants and see what works for these.

Oh and in many of our aquariums we like soft acidic water, the fungi in this research [Erper, Turkkan, Karaca and Kılıcpp, p. 8605-8612] showed optimal growth at pH values around 6. Newt says his water is soft, I guess probably for the fish. When the water is soft the various fungi, not just R. Solani grew faster in the experiment carried out [Erper, Turkkan, Karaca and Kılıcpp, p. 8605-8612]. Many Anubias come from West Africa and from what I saw from the youtube video linked a few posts back, I also do not think this soft water does them well.


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## bamboosharkbark

I'm gonna continue experimenting with concentratiosn of KHCO3 like I did with club soda on aquatic plants grown out of water. This time I'll use my own different concentrations of the KHCO3 I've acquired. I'll also work out quantities of KHCO3 on my tank to figure out how to treat fungal infections of aquatic plants submersed. I've managed to find some KHCO3 and am continuing experiments now.


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## thefisherman

bamboo man excellent reference thank you  pH 8+ is too alkaline for me bro, although i'm sure my vals would love it... perhaps i relocate my softwater stems and fish to another tank in order to treat the fungus infected rhizomes?

i would remove the plants (anubias) but they are attached to my driftwood (and it took me forever to get them to stick lol)


Sent from my iPhone


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## thefisherman

i believe aquariumfertilizers.com has some dry K


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## kiddjam

thefisherman said:


> i believe aquariumfertilizers.com has some dry K
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


Just buy Arm and Hammer Soda, they seems the same to me. except are sodium?


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## Newt

My tap water is naturally soft: 7 to 14ppm (Yes thats PPM) of GH. Depends on the time of year. KH is typically 1 dKH or less and alot of that is from additives at the water works end.

I add GH booster and have changed amounts I add at water changes to equal parts (by volume) of CaSO4, MgSO4 and K2SO4. I also add Seachem Alkaline Buffer to keep the CO2 from dropping the pH too much. The alkaline buffer contains some potassium bicarbonate. My tank water is typically a pH of 6.6.

I pull the coffefolia (now tied to a rock instead of rooted in Flourite) weekly and drizzle the stump end with excel. It seems to be helping but not halting the fungus.

To date the 2 other anubias are uneffected.


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## DeChaoOrdo

Just a thought, but have you considered a more extensive dip in an excel containing solution, since you've seen some reduction of the growth of the fungus perhaps exposing the plant to the excel over a longer period of time might improve the elimination of the fungus to levels the plant growth will outperform and eventually eliminate? I'm thinking the glutaraldehyde given enough time to act may effect the spores, whereas the fungus itself is particularly affected in quick treatments.


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## thefisherman

i wish i could yank my anubius easily to treat as they are attached to my driftwood (and took me forever to attach)... it seems this fungus loves soft water as it has now developed on an anubias rhizome in my 20L as well 


Sent from my iPhone


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## Newt

DeChaoOrdo said:


> Just a thought, but have you considered a more extensive dip in an excel containing solution, since you've seen some reduction of the growth of the fungus perhaps exposing the plant to the excel over a longer period of time might improve the elimination of the fungus to levels the plant growth will outperform and eventually eliminate? I'm thinking the glutaraldehyde given enough time to act may effect the spores, whereas the fungus itself is particularly affected in quick treatments.


When I first started treating it with excel I would let it sit for up to 5 mins before returning it to the tank but that exposure time affected the plant especially the leaves.


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## Newt

I lucked out tonight. I was at the LFS trading in some cuttings. A while back when my coffeefolia was growing like crazy and I was selling pieces I had sold some to the LFS. One of the employees had placed a small piece in a low light nano tank. It has sat there for over a year and not really grown most likely due to the low light. Since my mother plant got infected I have been wanting to ask if they would sell me the plant back. Tonight I did. You will never know the answer to a question unless you ask. They did! $9.98. Its in my shrimp tank.

On the down side I need to slice off the stub again. It has just sprouted a new leaf but very little remains. I'm going to try a poltice of potassium sulfate on the cut. 

Fingers crossed.


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## Newt

DeChaoOrdo said:


> I am very fascinated by this. Do you have any of the affected rhizome left you'd be willing to send me so I could look at it under a microscope and try to bug the aquatic botanist at my work to have a look at?
> 
> Also, if you continue to have problems you might want to see if baking soda on the ends where the fungus was helps. I've used baking soda to treat black rot on plumeria cuttings with a good deal of success.


Sorry, I missed this post. I bought a 2nd coffeefolia (not sure if its the heirloom variety) and its been in the tank for about 8 months or more. I went to relocate it and discovered the fungus in small clumps on the roots.I snipped the affected roots off and replanted with a fertilizer tab. Nothing visible on the rhizome. I'd be happy to send you any if they show up again. PM me your address.

Update on my original piece: Its still alive and looking better. It is much greener and growing. I have periodically treated affected parts (when I notice them) with Excel and dab the end into K2SO4. I continue to add equal amounts (by volume) of CaSO4, MgSO4 and K2SO4 for GH to my soft water and add SeaChem Alkaline Buffer.

The Anubias nana 'petite' still shows no signs of the fungus.


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## Tex Gal

How horrid that you are still struggling with this!!! As you know I have a huge plant of yours It's really taken off in my tank. Whenever you are ready I'll send you some.


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## Newt

Thanks Tex Gal.
I'm holding onto that raincheck.


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi Newt,

A very interesting read; I am sorry for the issues you are experiencing. I've been fortunate not to have any anubias problems (yet) but plant diseases and deficiencies happen and increasing our knowledge is what this forum is all about. Thanks!


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## Newt

Thanks Roy. Hopefully I'll get my plant thru this. I'm a bit encouraged by my results so far. I will keep the thread updated.

All>>>please keep you ideas coming.


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## Tex Gal

Hey Newt. I just split up some of my Coffeefolia (which is from your cutting). I have had it grow gangbusters in my tank. I had a gallon ziplock bag with cuttings that I took to our local club meeting. I still have to huge rhizomes (about 5" each) in my tank. I get such good growth. I'll nick these rhizomes again and have a ton again to share in a few months. Hope you have overcome the dreaded "fungus".


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## Newt

Hi Tex Gal,

No cure for the fungus and it took my beloved coffefolia. There was only a small bit left and it had the fungus in several spots. It wasnt growing well. I suppose 20+ years is a good run.


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## Zapins

Unfortunately I seem to also have this fungus now. I bought some anubias coffefolia plants and they arrived with fungus around the rhizome. I foolishly put them in my main tank and now half of my A. nana's have died of yellowing rhizomes and I see a dead petite or two. I'm worried I'll lose my entire 90g full of anubias.

Has anyone found anything new on the disease? Any cures? 

Newt, have you added new coffefolias back to your tank? Are they healthy or did the fungus establish itself in your tank and attack the new plants?


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## Zapins

Unfortunately I seem to also have this fungus now. I bought some anubias coffefolia plants and they arrived with fungus around the rhizome. I foolishly put them in my main tank and now half of my A. nana's have died of yellowing rhizomes and I see a dead petite or two. I'm worried I'll lose my entire 90g full of anubias.

Has anyone found anything new on the disease? Any cures? 

Newt, have you added new coffefolias back to your tank? Are they healthy or did the fungus establish itself in your tank and attack the new plants?


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## Zapins

Looks like the problem might be nematodes not fungus, not sure how to get rid of them. I did a bit of digging and found this:



wikipedia said:


> Nematropica (2000) 30, 63-75
> P.S. Lehman, N. Vovlas, R.N. Inserra, L.W. Duncan and D.T. Kaplan (2000)
> Colonization of foliar tissues of an aquatic plant, Anubias barteri Schott, by Radopholus similis
> Nematropica 30 (1), 63-75
> Abstract: In this paper evidence is presented for the reproduction of Radopholus similis in foliar tissues of Anubias barteri Schott. Burrowing nematodes colonized petioles and leaves of A. barteri in addition to the rhizomes. The nematode invaded the epidermis and the mesophyll of leaves causing cavities and cell disruption in the epidermis, palisade parenchyma and spongy parenchyma. Cavities extended from the spongy parenchyma into the periphery of the vascular bundles disrupting the regular flow of nutrient solution in the leaf tissues. Nematode feeding and migration also damaged the palisade parenchyma and cell chloroplasts inducing chlorosis and small brown lesions on the blades of the infected leaves. The burrowing nematodes recovered from A. barteri reproduced on sour orange and Duncan grapefruit in the greenhouse and on sour orange in the laboratory. In greenhouse tests, the citrus race of R. similis from citrus and the population from A. barteri reproduced on four Anubias species. Morphological and morphometric characteristics of R. similis from Anubias spp. did not differ from the R. similis citrus race from citrus.


From:
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/anubias-sp-banned-from-uk-import.20076/#post-205007

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radopholus_similis


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## Zapins

Looks like the problem might be nematodes not fungus, not sure how to get rid of them. I did a bit of digging and found this:



wikipedia said:


> Nematropica (2000) 30, 63-75
> P.S. Lehman, N. Vovlas, R.N. Inserra, L.W. Duncan and D.T. Kaplan (2000)
> Colonization of foliar tissues of an aquatic plant, Anubias barteri Schott, by Radopholus similis
> Nematropica 30 (1), 63-75
> Abstract: In this paper evidence is presented for the reproduction of Radopholus similis in foliar tissues of Anubias barteri Schott. Burrowing nematodes colonized petioles and leaves of A. barteri in addition to the rhizomes. The nematode invaded the epidermis and the mesophyll of leaves causing cavities and cell disruption in the epidermis, palisade parenchyma and spongy parenchyma. Cavities extended from the spongy parenchyma into the periphery of the vascular bundles disrupting the regular flow of nutrient solution in the leaf tissues. Nematode feeding and migration also damaged the palisade parenchyma and cell chloroplasts inducing chlorosis and small brown lesions on the blades of the infected leaves. The burrowing nematodes recovered from A. barteri reproduced on sour orange and Duncan grapefruit in the greenhouse and on sour orange in the laboratory. In greenhouse tests, the citrus race of R. similis from citrus and the population from A. barteri reproduced on four Anubias species. Morphological and morphometric characteristics of R. similis from Anubias spp. did not differ from the R. similis citrus race from citrus.


From:
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/anubias-sp-banned-from-uk-import.20076/#post-205007

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radopholus_similis


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## Newt

Hi Zapins. Sorry to hear of your plight.

Yes, I got another coffeefolia while I still had my original. I also got a petite nana. Neither were planted near the original and both were young plants. The new coffeefolia has the brown crud on the some roots but has not affected the plant with yellow leaves or soft rhizome. The nana is free of the disease. I need to prune the coffeefolia and think I am on to something. The disease, I believe, is only on the outside of the plant at this time and NOT IN the rhizome. I think by keeping the 'fungus' on the outside of the tissues the plant will do reasonably well. I plan on smearing some Eheim gasket petroleum jelly gasket sealant on the cut across the rhizome. By doing this I hope to keep the fungus out of the rhizome. I will be doing this tomorrow.

I lucked out and got a true coffeefolia plant. 

I will read the Wiki info later wen I have some quiet time.

Good Luck.

I will add any updates to this thread that are worth while.


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