# Setting up first time planted tank....need input



## ps49556n (Jul 29, 2007)

Hello everybody....

After months of debating whether to start a new tank I have finally decided on setting up a 55-60 gallon planted tank. I am very experienced with conventional growing (organic and hydro, aero) and I have done my share of research on the topic but I am still new at this so any tips or suggestions would be apreciated. Here is what I plan to use in my setup:

1.) 55-65 gallon glass tank
2.) Eheim Wet/Dry 2227
3.) Strong light setup (still unsure, could use advice here)
4.) CO2 system (unsure about this too)


I know that 2227 filter is a little extreme but I would rather have the peace of mind. Would there be any downside to this filter in my setup?? Also, is the eheim model with built in heater a better choice?

I would like to have very powerful lighting in combination with CO2 supplementation but I am concerned with algae growh and any tips to avoid algae would be helpful. From what I understand a large part of managing algae so it is not visible is to find a balance between strong light and adequate CO2.


I will be setting this up in manhattan and I am in search of a serious aquarium supply store. I hear the place on 38th street and 3rd ave (New World Aquarium I believe), I will check it out tomarrow. Any other reputable stores?


That is what I can think of for now... 


Thanks


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

"Very powerful lighting" is not an advantage in most cases, especially when you are just starting out with a planted tank. If you have 2 watts per gallon of CF or T5 bulbs with good reflectors you can grow just about any plant you would want to grow. Beyond that you are just driving the plants to grow faster, which means a lot more maintenance is needed, like pruning. It also means the plants demand more and more nutrients, so maintaining an adequate supply of all of the nutrients gets harder, and it means CO2 is essential - plant tissue is mostly carbon, so a source of carbon is essential. Algae also like powerful lighting, so if you let the nutrient levels fluctuate too much, especially CO2, you are very likely to grow algae rapidly too. It is much better to start out with less light and have everything in the tank happen much more slowly so you can react in time to avoid problems.


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## ps49556n (Jul 29, 2007)

Thanks for the response...2 watts/gallon is enough?? 


Any input on filters?


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The easiest filter to use and the one with the most side benefits is a canister filter. Of those, for that size tank the Rena Filstar XP3 is the best deal for the money. A canister filter provides good water circulation in the tank, can run an external CO2 reactor, and doesn't need cleaning except every few months.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Welcome to APC! 

As to cannister filters, I'd go for the Eheim 2126 with the integrated heating (or the 2026, same filter but without the heating).

The wet/dry won't give you any advantages... remember, in a well planted healthy tank the plants are your main biological filter, eating up all the nitrogen compounds they can consume. In fact, with good lighting and CO2 you'll be adding nitrates for the plants. The biological filtering capacity of a cannister filter is good to have as a backup but some people use cannisters only for mechanical filtering on a planted tank.

In case you haven't yet, this is good reading for the basics:

www.rexgrigg.com

Enjoy!


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## ps49556n (Jul 29, 2007)

Laith said:


> Welcome to APC!
> 
> As to cannister filters, I'd go for the Eheim 2126 with the integrated heating (or the 2026, same filter but without the heating).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply...yes yesterday I read over Rex Grigg, quite alot of valuable info.

I have pretty much decided on the 2126 or 2026...Is $100+ difference worth it for the built in heater though?

Also, any recommendations on a quality CO2 system??...I do not want a DIY kit...


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Personally having bought a 2128 I wouldn't buy one again. I'd definitely buy the 2028, but the big problem I find with the heater is during cleaning when you have to disconnect all the leads, including the temperature probe one, before you can move the whole unit intact anywhere (I like to disconnect the hoses and then keep everything else together until I get it to the sink to avoid spills).

The temperature adjustment and digital readout is great, but the probe in the tank and the extra leads can be eliminated by using a Hydor heater on the tubing instead.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

I would also vote for the Hydor in line heater. That with an XP2 or XP3 and you'll still be saving some $$ over the Eheim system. My 2 cents.


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## greenfish (Mar 7, 2005)

I have an all-glass 55. I wish I would have gotten a 75. The 55 is much too narrow and the 75 wasn't that much more and is the same width. Go bigger if you can swing it. Xp3 & inline heater.


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## johngfoster (Jul 23, 2007)

greenfish said:


> I have an all-glass 55. I wish I would have gotten a 75. The 55 is much too narrow and the 75 wasn't that much more and is the same width. Go bigger if you can swing it. Xp3 & inline heater.


I was just going to comment on this, but you beat me to it. With planted tanks, the added width (front to back measurement) of a 75 gal over a 55 gal is almost always a plus. I wish they made a tank here in the US that was even wider. I had a 55 gal and it was very difficult to do anything with driftwood or rocks. You need room to develop your backround and foreground. In other sizes, I would go with a 40BR over a 30 gal any day.


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