# Solenoid valves



## jschall (Apr 13, 2009)

I'm getting pressurized CO2 soon, and of course I want to have it automatically turn on and off at the right times.
Obviously, most people use a solenoid valve. From what I've seen, solenoid valves consume power when on, enough to heat up to about 250F. They're also insanely expensive - at least $80, just for a valve!

Why do people use these? There has to be a better solution. It can't be hard to make a valve that opens and stays open at a certain time, and closes and stays closed at a given time.
Attaching a geared DC motor to a ball valve and feeding it a 3 second pulse of power in one direction to open, 3 second pulse in the other direction to close, is not exactly brain surgery. I'd say it's less complex than making a solenoid valve, since ball valves and DC motors are extremely commonly available.

Does anyone know if there's something available that's similar to what I'm describing?

Well, there's my rant. Ultimately, my goal is to get SOMETHING to control my CO2, solenoid or not, so if anyone can help me out there, that'd be great.


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## reybie (Jul 18, 2007)

There's a member at another forum that sells clippard solenoids for about half or maybe less than what you posted.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

ball valves do not work very well to close off presurized systems. They always leak.


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## virgo888 (Jun 25, 2009)

save yourself some headache and get a solenoid to turn-on and off your co2.


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

Check out this one. It's the one I use and from the same guy. You'll have to attach a AC power cord, but that's no biggie. If you don't know what to do drop me a PM and I walk you through it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Parker-120-Volt-STAINLESS-Solenoid-Valves-150-PSI-New-/300460358602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f4d53bca

Pat


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## inkslinger (Jan 1, 2005)

The Clippard Solenoid Valve's are being made over seas an are have issues in staying open an leaking they go for $20. you get what you pay for they run at 6watt's so they do run a little hot. 
http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...noids-with-Buna-seals-...-available-very-soon
These 6011 solenoids made in Germany run at 4watts a lot cooler an are made for industry use so they are made to run 24/7 , They cost $45. an are better than the Clippard. And then there is Parker's that I have ni idea about but sure others can comet about them.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

I use that same Parker listed above. I am quite happy with it. When the solenoid fires, it has a distinctive satisfying click and it has a stainless steel body. It is easy to take the body apart if you needed to clean it. Mine hasn't clogged or stuck open or closed in the last year or so. I have heard some people had issues with them so, It might be a crapshoot with the Parker. Some have had the coil burn up but, like I said, mine has been great.


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## jschall (Apr 13, 2009)

Alright, well, apparently the pressurized CO2 system that I got doesn't have a real regulator on it. It's one of those do-aqua simple co2 setups "for charming aquarium."

Anyway, the store I got it from had one hooked up to a solenoid, and it worked, but they said the tubing popped out because the pressure is 1000 psi and their solenoid gets hot so it softens the tubing. They said that if I got some real CO2 tubing (they were using plastic airline tubing) I would be able to use a solenoid.

Thoughts? I have someone willing to send me a solenoid for $18 shipped. Will it work out for me?

Is it even necessary to turn it off at night?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

jschall said:


> Alright, well, apparently the pressurized CO2 system that I got doesn't have a real regulator on it. It's one of those do-aqua simple co2 setups "for charming aquarium."
> 
> Anyway, the store I got it from had one hooked up to a solenoid, and it worked, but they said the tubing popped out because the pressure is 1000 psi and their solenoid gets hot so it softens the tubing. They said that if I got some real CO2 tubing (they were using plastic airline tubing) I would be able to use a solenoid.
> 
> ...


It sounds like you want to run the solenoid inline (reg/needle valve->tubing->solenoid->tubing). I tried that even with CO2 grade tubing and the 6 watt clippard solenoid still made the tubing soft. I changed it by attaching the solenoid to a Victor Regulator with brass fittings and the tubing no longer got soft. The regulator acts like a heat sink dispersing the heat from the solenoid.

If you need to run the solenoid inline and it sounds like you do, get a solenoid that runs 4 watts to reduce the heat. Unfortunately, they are more expensive but, that might be your only recourse.


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

The Parker gets fairly warm to the touch but not enough to prevent you from holding your skin against it for an extended period and the tubing doesn't seem to be softening at all. I have a brass Victor reg. as well and a two piece brass fitting on the downstream side to the barb fitting, where the tubing is attached, so heat sink action is in play. BTW the Parker is a 6w sol. 

Try adding a short 2"-3" brass extention between the sol. and the barb. That might offer enough heat sink surface to keep thigs cool enough.

Pat


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## herns (Aug 28, 2007)

reybie said:


> There's a member at another forum that sells clippard solenoids for about half or maybe less than what you posted.


There has been a lot of leakage problem with Clippard Solenoid recently. I've read somewhere that they are now being made in China. I have my first CO2 regulator built using Clippard sol. and it was leaking the first time I use it. A waste of money.

There is an STC solenoid sold in ebay that looks like Clippard. $21 shipped. Ive been using this for 3mos now without any problem. I use PH controller to control CO2 injection. In this way the Solenoid also got a chance to cool down when the CO2 is shut off.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

pat w said:


> The Parker gets fairly warm to the touch but not enough to prevent you from holding your skin against it for an extended period and the tubing doesn't seem to be softening at all. I have a brass Victor reg. as well and a two piece brass fitting on the downstream side to the barb fitting, where the tubing is attached, so heat sink action is in play. BTW the Parker is a 6w sol.
> 
> Try adding a short 2"-3" brass extention between the sol. and the barb. That might offer enough heat sink surface to keep thigs cool enough.
> 
> Pat


The 6 watt Parker that I have gets about as warm as the Clippard I used that's why I suggested a 4 watt solenoid. A Burkert for instance.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Additional info for the Burkerts.

http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...als-...-available-very-soon?highlight=burkert


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## Singtoh (May 27, 2009)

Hello All,

I agree with pat w. I had a fireworks show the other morning with a solenoid valve that came stock with my regulator, it was a cheap chinese solenoid that decided to burst into flames. I went and purchased a Parker VE131.4 FV continious duty, rated at 9 watts. It gets really hot, but from what I have read, this is normal. I didn't like it getting so hot so I attached a 1.5 inch heatsink and fan to it with the proper thermal grease as you would do for a CPU and it runs pretty cool now. The Parker solenoid was the cheapest I could find here in Thailand at around $30 other than going with the same one that burst into flames at around $8(I won't go there again). So far so good, only time will tell.

Cheers,

Singtoh


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