# Algae kicking my butt



## Ctenopoma (Jul 2, 2011)

So, last May I set up my first big C02 planted aquarium. Things were going great, until I went away at Christmas and I think things got out of whack. Here's the set-up:
-65 gallon aquarium, 2 x high intensity T5 (30 micromols at lowest plant tips, 2 inches off substrate at front)
- fluorite substrate, mud cubes & occasional slow-release fertlizer in gel caps under heavy root feeders
- C02 in cheapo ceramic diffuser, misting out under Koralia powerhead which blows it around most of the tank, plus a fluval internal canister filter
- Lights and C02 on timer, C02 comes on 15 mins before lights, off 15 mins before. photoperiod 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. pH meter reads 6.9 in morning, 6.3 by end of day. C02 indicator turns green.
- GH 5, KH 5.5 or so. Use equal parts (7.5 ml each CaCl & MgS04) at each 50% weekly water change, also 15 ml NaHC03 at water change.
- Was dosing 3 times per week (once with the 50% water change): 0.75 tsp KN03, 0.25 tsp K2S04, 0.25 tsp KH2P04, 0.25 tsp chelated trace elements (similar to CSM + B, added several hours after the other stuff).

Things were growing really well at first, after I added the root supplementation. I had 6 swordtails, 6 checkered barbs, and a few Otocinclus in the tank. I also added 6 juvenile angelfish before the holidays and I think they have brought the nitrate and phosphate up. The phosphate is about 4 and I think that is causing algae problems so I stopped dosing the monopotassium phosphate and started dosing 0.75 ml each K2S04 and KN03 3 times a week (+ 0.25 tsp trace) plus the GH /KH stuff with water changes.

The tank is _covered_ with what looks like green thread algae, in 2 or 3 days of being away I come back and it is coated all over the glass and equipment, flowing and rippling in the current- so depressing! 

Plant-wise, I have several Echinodorus, some Ludwigia, Bacopa, Cryptocorynes, some Cabomba, Vallisneria, Aponogetons, Sagittaria, even a teeny chunk of Staurogyne repends left... but things look bad. They are still growing (pulled out a respectable whack of Vall the other day, swordplants still growing, cabomba still growing) but worst of all is the Hygrophila polysperma which looks like the new growth is reeeally weird, like some kind of deficiency. All new growth on this plant is long leaves, twisted, semi-translucent dark green. Looks very weird. This must be some kind of horrible nutrient imbalance getting more out of control by the day due to the algae?

I can't blame it all on the angelfish can I? I can't have a half dozen juvenile angels in a tank like this? Seems weird. Seems like if I reduced the phosphate dosing and the nitrate stays under 20 (it gets up to 20 before my water change) that it should be getting back in line? I added some phosguard in a bag just to bring the phosphate down more so it wouldn't be too high without having to change all the water. Phosphate is down to about 1 now.

Ideas on how to recover this tank anyone?

Thanks!!


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## Ctenopoma (Jul 2, 2011)

Any words of wisdom out there folks? I'm dying here...


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## Silvering (Jun 10, 2011)

If you post pics of your deficient plant in the Fert forum, perhaps someone will know what nutrient you're missing! 

Try searching that forum for "MCI" as well.


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

I turn on my co2 2 hours before my lighting period. It sounds like low co2 to me. My ph starts at 6 and drops to 5 throughout the photo period. Also I would drop your lighting period to 8 hours a day instead of 10. Or let your plants tell you how long it should be when they start to tilt up near the end of your light cycle.


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## brewster (Apr 15, 2004)

My first priority would be to cut photo period to eight hours. Then do research to determine additional solutions


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## Ctenopoma (Jul 2, 2011)

Thanks for the ideas, I will try cutting the photoperiod and increasing C02.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Don't cut back on phosphates, dose according to EI. Remove the phosguard. Even if you got the phosphates to .01 ppm, that would be enough for algae to grow. Limiting nutrients won't eliminate algae, it only will only weaken plants and make it easier for algae to grow on them. Reduce lighting period to 8 hours, maybe even a little less. Any changes won't be reflected for several weeks so, be patient. Whatever change in CO2 flow, BPS,lighting photo period, intensity etc... Watch for several weeks between changes. In the mean time, plenty of water changes, the more the better and physically remove as much algae as possible. Algae won't disappear on it's own once its there. Watch to see if it comes back, slower or faster between your changes. Don't wait for it to disappear because, it won't.

I'm in the same boat right now. I had everything in my 46 gallon bowfront working well, balance was good. Then I transfer everything over to a 57 gallon at very close to the same height but, I have been fighting to find the balance since summer. So, I know the feeling. Good luck in your efforts.

Ain't this hobby fun?


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## thankgodforthesuffering (Aug 24, 2008)

I wouldn't reduce the photoperiod at all......You can leave the lights on as long as you want as long as you can supply the nutrients for them to grow.....Your hair algae is just like you said, an imbalance of nutrients. I know light is a nutrient, but I am talking micro and macro's. In fact, I was reading a paper from Takashi Amano, he says he doesn't believe you could have a light that was too intense as long as you could supply the nutrients. I think you need to up your co2. There has also been research done that says hair algae and too much iron is related. I would do more water changes to bring your nutrients back down to the bottom, then re-add your fertilizers.


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

thankgodforthesuffering said:


> I wouldn't reduce the photoperiod at all......You can leave the lights on as long as you want as long as you can supply the nutrients for them to grow.....Your hair algae is just like you said, an imbalance of nutrients. I know light is a nutrient, but I am talking micro and macro's. In fact, I was reading a paper from Takashi Amano, he says he doesn't believe you could have a light that was too intense as long as you could supply the nutrients. I think you need to up your co2. There has also been research done that says hair algae and too much iron is related. I would do more water changes to bring your nutrients back down to the bottom, then re-add your fertilizers.


While what you say is true, light is like the gas pedal for a planted tank. If you are driving a car at 150mph and make a steering error you will have a much bigger faster accident then you will at 30mph. With lower light you have a larger amount of time to see effects and make corrections. You have a more gracious learning curve. Very few drivers start out driving at 150mph. Unless you are an extremely skilled professional few of us ever drive that fast.


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## Ctenopoma (Jul 2, 2011)

Wellll you're not going to believe this. I figured out one very significant problem with my tank, a real reminder sometimes to go back to basics. So recently I had decided (as discussed) to reduce the photoperiod from 10 hrs to 8 hours. While handling the timer I realized that the switch for the timer was in override mode and the light was on 24 hours a day for like a month! I only see this tank during the daytime (it's at work) so I had no idea. WOW. So basically yes, I did have a C02 deficiency: the light was on 24 hrs and the C02 was only on for 10!! So right now I have the C02 coming on about 1.5 hrs before the light just to build up to level and 8 hrs of light. Drastic improvement in the tank already. Still some twisted, pale growth on new Hygrophila polysperma but at least it isn't a green wavy mat over everything now. Now I will remove as many infected leaves as I can while the plants grow new ones.
I had taken the Phosguard out, I am not dosing the phosphate right now though because I think I get enough from these 6 angelfish in the tank. I am going to monitor that by testing though to see. Figure 4 ppm phosphate is probably too much, gonna aim for 1-2 and dose again if it falls below that.

Thanks for the help all, I will keep fine-tuning and see if I can get this algae issue cleared up over the next several weeks. Because one thing I do know is nothing good ever happens fast! But bad things happen fast, then it takes a long time to fix. *sigh* well good lesson anyway.


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## virgo888 (Jun 25, 2009)

what kind of root supplementation are you using? rootmedic?

i have a similar problem and the only thing new to me was these tabs.


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## pjb9166 (Apr 2, 2012)

Man: Trigger just jienxed me and now I read this thread. I guess I better learn how to combat the problem before it happens. I had fun learning to control my Co2. Still learning about frets. I guess it's only a matter of time when I have to learn about algae. 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## The Trigger (Apr 23, 2012)

:evil: I would never.......


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## The Trigger (Apr 23, 2012)

Lol no but really the green hair algae is caused by too much light and out of whack nutrients. The ONLY time I have had it was at the top of my stem plants closest to the waters surface and the light. Just keep your nutrients at steady levels and crank your co2 up. Reduce your lighting period as the other members stated


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