# diy CO2: fixing a few problems



## Phlowin (Aug 16, 2013)

From what I have seen and read, it seems that the most issues people have with their diy CO2 generator is the constant 24/7 CO2 release, usually resulting people to use an air stone to save their precious fishies. Well, there is a simple tweak to solve this, really:

Using the usual set up (excuse the poor paint job) which looks like:










Create an extra tube to release CO2 on the bubble counter, which should more or less look like this (the changes are in red):










*IMPORTANT: *Notice how tube 1 goes deeper into the jar (or whichever container you use) while tube 3 is shorter than tube 1. This insures the CO2 to be released out of tube 3, rather than tube 1.

So what this pretty much does is release CO2 into the atmosphere instead of the tank. To turn it off and on, just pinch it closed by folding the tube (3) and securing it with a paper clamp. I usually pinch tube 3 when my lights are on, and release it when off.

Now, for those who have problems with too much CO2 release in their nano tanks, a simple buy is needed. By attaching a flow control valve (similar to this one http://www.marinedepot.com/Flow_Con...nt_Parts-Plumbing_Parts-FT0002-FICRRP-vi.html) to tube 2 (attaching it to tube 2 allows better reading on your bubble counter), you are able to control how much CO2 is being release into your tank at--tweak it as you see fit.

*NOTE:* I never had issues with pressure build up, using the valve, which would cause everything to explode. Though it may be possible, I doubt it would happen. But you've been warned! 

*ALSO:* You may want a pH regulator, as turning off your yeast CO2 will create a rise in pH in your water. Or that is what I think it would... but I never had any problems with pH in mine. I would like to know if anyone has pH problems with this, since it does spark some curiosity in me.

I hope this helps and works for you as well. Good luck!


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## pepetj (Oct 2, 2008)

The Height difference between tube 1 and 2 has no effect of which way the gas flows. 

Gas will flow out of the bubble counter/gas separator following the path with less resistance. The open tube into the atmosphere will be that path when open while the tube with the diffuser will be that path when closed.

Good idea you have there!

Pepetj 
Santo Domingo


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## Phlowin (Aug 16, 2013)

Well, you can see how far my physics class got me XD. My thinking was that the CO2 would collect on the top and slowly fill downward from there, entering the closest hole. But what you said is definitely true, pepetj!


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## mcg177 (May 28, 2012)

Also make sure your bubble counter is high enough that it won't create a vacuum when tube 3 is open. Or you could have one heck of a mess 

Sent from my htc Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 4


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## herns (Aug 28, 2007)

You dont have to worry DIY Co2 build up. They always fluctuate. Just provide good surface agitation.


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## Phlowin (Aug 16, 2013)

That would be true if you didn't mind a good bit of surface tension. But for most betta owners with a heavily planted tank they rather not have a strong current. Close to none at all, actually. Though I could be wrong, but most of the bettas I've owned get extremely depressed because of it and this was the best solution I could come up with (almost killed a betta due to CO2 build up and also shredded another with to much water flow). Unless if anyone has a different suggestion, more than willing to try new things.


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## JeffyFunk (Apr 6, 2006)

Phlowin said:


> That would be true if you didn't mind a good bit of surface tension. But for most betta owners with a heavily planted tank they rather not have a strong current. Close to none at all, actually. Though I could be wrong, but most of the bettas I've owned get extremely depressed because of it and this was the best solution I could come up with (almost killed a betta due to CO2 build up and also shredded another with to much water flow). Unless if anyone has a different suggestion, more than willing to try new things.


I find this interesting interesting for, perhaps, all the wrong reasons... If you're so worried about high flow rates through the aquarium, why are you focusing on the CO2 and not on the canister filters / powerheads / etc?

To me, if you want lower flow rates in the tank w/ a canister filter, then you need the correct filter pipes like the Do Aqua Poppy glass or ADA Spin. These filter pipes are both designed to reduce the flow of the water exiting the canister filter... I also see a lot of people recommend partially closing the quick connects in the return lines, but i'm not sure that's the best idea since that will also change the flow rate through the canister filter (which will have an effect on the biological filtration... supposedly).

If you have DIY CO2 and you're concerned about gassing your fish at night, my suggestions is to either (1) raise the CO2 diffuser higher in the aquarium so less CO2 can dissolve at night, (2) run an air stone at night to counter the CO2 or (3) open that third line @ night (and close it in the morning) so the CO2 can escape when the lights are not on... The only automated method of controlling the CO2 with DIY CO2 is the air stone, still...


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## Phlowin (Aug 16, 2013)

JeffyFunk said:


> I find this interesting interesting for, perhaps, all the wrong reasons... If you're so worried about high flow rates through the aquarium, why are you focusing on the CO2 and not on the canister filters / powerheads / etc?
> 
> To me, if you want lower flow rates in the tank w/ a canister filter, then you need the correct filter pipes like the Do Aqua Poppy glass or ADA Spin. These filter pipes are both designed to reduce the flow of the water exiting the canister filter... I also see a lot of people recommend partially closing the quick connects in the return lines, but i'm not sure that's the best idea since that will also change the flow rate through the canister filter (which will have an effect on the biological filtration... supposedly).
> 
> If you have DIY CO2 and you're concerned about gassing your fish at night, my suggestions is to either (1) raise the CO2 diffuser higher in the aquarium so less CO2 can dissolve at night, (2) run an air stone at night to counter the CO2 or (3) open that third line @ night (and close it in the morning) so the CO2 can escape when the lights are not on... The only automated method of controlling the CO2 with DIY CO2 is the air stone, still...


I thought I made that rather clear, but I guess not, my apologies. I am NOT "worried" about the high flow rates (as I keep the water as still as possible), but the use of the technique of a high flow rate to help oxygenate the water. So, I actually DON'T have any issues with the flow rate, as this didn't even pertain to the actual topic. I was simply responding to herns's suggestion.

For your suggested solutions (though they are good and valid ones):

1) I rather not move the diffuser up and down and stress out the fish. Nor do I want to leave the diffuser higher above the tank, as I have tried this and my plants did not flourish (which led to browning) as well as it does when the diffuser is lower (as I have a heavily planted tank, I assume this adds in as a factor).

2) I rather not use one, my betta extremely hates it (tried it). Led to severe self-mutilation, loss of appetite, and hid inside a corner all day. I have tried different sizes as well, same results.

3) It's what I'm doing until I find or figure out a better method. Though the pH spikes arn't severe enough to do serious harm to my fishes, it is still rather worrisome. Did a pH test at 0600, 0900, 1200, 1500, 1900, and 2200; I close my third tube at 0900 and open at 1900. In short, there were indeed slight changes in pH.


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## ibisae (Jun 3, 2013)

I've got a ten gallon that's also planted and has a betta in it. I have an aquaclear 20 on the back filtering it and what I did with my DIY co2 is that I ran the tube that you would hook up to the diffuser, into the top hole where you regulate the flow of the filter and down to the impeller.

Each bubble gets sucked up by the impeller and then sent out of the top into a fine mist of bubbles. I have so many chopped up bubbles that my tank usually looks like it's snowing, with a bunch of tiny little bubbles all over the surface. 

I keep the flow on the low setting and it does not seem to bother my betta at all, I think he actually likes it. 

Throughout the day I run an airstone with just one bubble coming out of it fairly often, and at night I adjust the airstone to allow more air into the tank to compensate for the lights being off. 

I was really worried about buying a diffuser or what kind, and when I figured this out I have been happy with the distribution, my plants are all looking great and pearling on the undersides (the flow of my tank doesn't quite allow for them to pearl on top I think). The only problem I have is the tiny little bubbles everywhere look like snow heh. 

Good hack if you ask me.


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