# New to shrimp



## JESTERX626 (Sep 18, 2006)

I was just reading a few topics on shrimp, and they seem fun and different to have. I have a few questions.

1. Can they tolerate my ph of 7.4?
2. Do they all peacefully co-exist?(the shrimps)
3. Do they need any specific special care?
4. Are they sensitive to water conditions?
5. What do they eat?
6. Any other stuff I need to know If I wanted to get some?
7. Tank size? How many in a 10 g? in a 20 g?
8. Peaceful tankmates?


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## gforster (Jul 30, 2006)

I think it all really depends on what kind of shrimp you want to have. there are quite a few choices out there and i believe, like fish, they have different requirements.


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Get a bunch of ghost shrimp, red cherry shrimp, and Amano shrimp. In my experience, they seem to tolerate a good range of water conditions and they all live well together.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I would get myself a 10 gallon and make it a shrimp only tank with a bunch of moss tied to driftwood or something.

Lots of the 'common' shrimp such as cherry reds shrimp can tolerate a pH of 7.4. I suggest for your first shrimp try out some cherry reds. 10-20 shrimp should be enough to start a colony, and they don't require much care. Feed H&B Lobster bites, or Hikari Algae wafers, the shrimp love them.

Peaceful tank mates, include snails, otos, cory cats, and any small mouth fish.

Most shrimp are sensitive to water poor water conditions, so it's always a good idea to have a fully cycled or planted tank, and to do bi weekly waterchanges to ensure good water parameters.

www.freshwaterinverts.com is a great location for shrimp information and for placing an order.

-John N.


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## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

> 1. Can they tolerate my ph of 7.4?


Most shrimps will adapt to a wide range of water parameters, if temperature is held constant and to their liking.



> 2. Do they all peacefully co-exist?(the shrimps)


Caridina, Neocaridina, and Atya shrimp should co-exist fine. Add a Macrobrachium and you might run into trouble.



> 3. Do they need any specific special care?


Most like temperatures from 72-77 degrees. Fish can tolerate some ammonia/nitrite, but shrimp won't. If you want to raise benthic shrimplets (the shrimplets are like miniature adults, no larval stage) then you might want to invest in a prefilter.



> 4. Are they sensitive to water conditions?


Yes. As stated above, temperature and ammonia/nitrite should be controlled.



> 5. What do they eat?


Whatever they can scavenge, and fish food if you want to add that. They'll also eat things like blanched spinach/cucumbers/zucchini. The macros might take down some of the smaller fish that are kept in the same tank as them.



> 6. Any other stuff I need to know If I wanted to get some?


Are you planning to keep them with fish? If so, you might want to make sure the tank is densely planted so that the shrimp have cover. Also, if you're planning on getting some Atya sp. (fan shrimp), try to have an area with a lot of water flow so the shrimp can take it easy and make use of their fans. There's a lot more, but just by going through some of the threads in this particular forum, you'd be able to find out a lot.



> 7. Tank size? How many in a 10 g? in a 20 g?


In a ten gallon, I believe Mike from freshwaterinverts.com keeps 200 or so shrimp with no problem. Of course, you can't do that with the bigger Atya sp.. I've never had too many shrimp in a tank, but for the purposes of keeping shrimp to enjoy them, I'd aim for a population max of 50 of the smaller shrimp in a ten gallon.



> 8. Peaceful tankmates?


Any of the smaller algae eaters comes to mind, as well as the smaller cories. I'd say all cories, but seeing my tiny corydoras habrosus tear at some frozen bloodworms makes me wonder how the bigger ones would do with shrimp/shrimplets. Bristle nose plecos stay pretty small I believe, and the otocinclus is a personal favorite of mine. Use more caution with the Atya sp. since they are bigger/slower and can't really defend themselves if you want to have any other type of fish. With the Neocaridina/Caridina, if the fish's mouth times two can't eat the shrimp, and there's enough cover around, the shrimp will be safe. My cardinals tried to get at the cherries at first, but quickly learned that the cherries are too fast and not worth the effort. If you're thinking about raising shrimplets, you're pretty much going to be stuck with the sucker-mouths and small corydoras though.

If you have more specific questions, try using the Search function. If you can't find what you're looking for, post back and someone should be able to help. Anyway, if you choose to go through with it, good luck with the shrimp!


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## milalic (Aug 26, 2005)

Well James said it all. 

Just want to add, starter shrimp are cherry red or ghost shrimp.

-Pedro


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## duchessren (Sep 16, 2006)

I've got four of the biggest Paleatus corydoras I've ever seen in with my Amano, Ghost, Bamboo, and Cherry shrimps, and they've never bothered them at all. I also have a Gold Gourami pair, some Australian rainbows, Rummynose Tetras, Bloodfin tetras, and many others in with the shrimps from other various tanks. They all seem to do fine as long as you provide them with ample amounts of hiding spots. The ghost shrimps pick on each other more than anything. IMO, the most important thing is longer acclimation time. They adapt more slowly than fish, so introduce them accordingly. My bamboo shrimp do better in warmer water (~78-79*) and love high currents. 

I highly recommend shrimp. I think they are more fun to watch than fish and have such personalities. I'm student teaching right now, and the way the shrimps snatch food away from one another and "argue" parallels the students I'm teaching. (I know that probably somehow politically incorrect, and I apologize to any parents I may have offended. I meant it in a good way though. I love shrimps!)


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## Shrimp&Snails (Mar 27, 2006)

James, i'm never going to get a decent post count with you around.  :lol:


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## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

Summer vacation means I get the late night threads alllll to myself =]

I'm moving into my dorm on Friday though, so I might have to give up that territory pretty soon, haha


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## JESTERX626 (Sep 18, 2006)

Thanks for the replies guys. More questions!

1. Are there anymore types of Starter shrimp beside cherries and ghosts?

2. What type of filter should I use? and how strong for a 10 gal?

3. Are they nocturnal? Because I'd prefer ones that roam around during the day time where i can see them

4. How active are they? Do they sit around or are they on the move?

5. Are they easy to breed?

6. Would those starter shrimp snatch some neon tetra tankmates?

7. What other fishtank equipment do I need for them?

8. I hear shrimp are sensitive to Flourish liquid fertilizer? If that's the case, what do I do?

9. Do they get along with crayfish? If yes which species?


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## duchessren (Sep 16, 2006)

1. Amano (Algae-Eating) Shrimp are hardy and readily available (at least in Ohio). They take pellets, flakes, freeze-dried, and frozen foods of all types. 
Bamboo (Flower/Fan) shrimps are easy to keep in a "mature" aquarium. The filter particulate matter out of the water to eat, so they don't do well in new setups. However, I do find that they are quite hardy and their diet can be supplemented quite well with spirulina flakes dropped right into their choice of high flow area.
2. Any filter you'd normally use for a 10 gallon fish tank would be fine, unless you were wanting to breed them. Use a sponge filter in this case.
3. I wouldn't call them "nocturnal", but they definitely like to feel safe and secure (which darkness provides). With a sufficient amount of driftwood and plants (that you position to fit your viewing pleasure), they should feel confident roaming out while the lights are on.
4. I think this depends on the tank, other species in it, quantity of shrimp, time of day, etc. They do seem to stay in the same spots, though they move a lot and have great personalities. The bamboo shrimps might be considered to "sit around" but their fans are always on the move, alternating and feeding.
5. They are easy to breed with the right setup, yes.
6. Ghost, Amano, Cherry, and Bamboo shrimps are all peaceful. The neons pose more of a threat to the shrimps IMO.
7. They need an environment with places to hide, low nitrates, and non-threatening tankmates. I add iodine every once in blue moon. Its good for their exoskeletons (but not necessary). 
8. Some one else will have to answer. I don't use it.
9. They WOULD get along with crayfish just fine; HOWEVER, the crayfish getting along with THEM is another story. To cut it short, you'd have no shrimps left.


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## JESTERX626 (Sep 18, 2006)

Thanks for the replies! More questions sorry, bear with me! I made my mind up to start a shrimp tank so I'd like to know everything about happily housing them before I get them.

All referring to the starter shrimp:

1. Do they create more waste than fish? So should I over filter with a stronger aquaclear powerfilter or should I just use tha 10 gallon one, Aquaclear 30?

2. Should I get a heater?

3. What other fish are compatible that wont eat shrimplets the shrimp bebbies? ahah

4. Whats the proper way to acclimate shrimp and for how long of duration?

5. How big do they get in inches?

6. I was thinking, would my 10 gal tank look better with the back of tank painted black or should i make a moss wall such as this in this DIY? Or would a black background bring out the colors of the shrimp more? Suggestions please.
Aquatic Moss. How to Create a Moss Wall. Create backdrop using aquatic moss. How to grow Aquatic Moss. Info on Java Moss, Christmas Moss, Taiwan Moss, Peacock Moss, Stringy Moss

7. What type of snails should I add? I've read on freshwaterinverts.com that they can pummel the ph to dangerous levels or something? Can someone explain this?

8. For my small 10 gal tank should I just buy a sugar/yeast co2 system for it?
Or with such a small tank should I even use co2 for my plants??

Thanks again!


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## duchessren (Sep 16, 2006)

I'm sorry I'm the one who keeps responding to your questions. Someone else here might have different advice. Come on APC'ers! We're both newbies to the forum.

1. They generate much less waste than fish, but I haven't heard of stronger filtration hurting a shrimp. That is not to suggest that you go strapping a couple of Fluval 403s or Emperor 400s to a 10 gallon. Be reasonable about it. A 20/25 gallon rated filter would be fine. 
2. Yes, I'd recommend you get a heater. Shrimps don't like fluctuation much.
3. I think everything eats shrimp babies, leading again to the importance of driftwood, plants, and hiding spots. Cories, danios, my gouramis, otos, plecos, and little tetras (such as neons and rummynoses). Usually community fish that stay small are acceptable. I've had issues with some Red Serpae Tetra hellians and my smaller shrimps. Rainbows get the munchies for shrimps occasionally, but if the rainbows are introduced after the shrimps, mine have done fine. Keep everyone well fed (but not overfed) and it will help the nippier carnivores keep to themselves. 
4. Acclimate all inverts slowly. FIRST - feed your tank and turn off their lights. Float the bag long enough to get the temps the same (10 min or so). Next, add some of your tank water to their bag. There's no real "magic amount" IMO. Do this about five-six times, adding more water every 5-10 minutes. Strain 'em and pop 'em in.
5. Biggest pregnant female ghost I've had - about 2.25". Ghosts usually stay around 1.5" and are on the skinny side of things. Amanos get a little bigger and thicker than ghosts, but stay around the 2" mark. My cherry reds are in between the aforementioned two. Bamboos are easily the largest that I keep at around 4" and fat. I feed 'em well I suppose. 
6. I've personally never done a moss wall. I saw a few on eBay and I was intrigued, but haven't done it. I don't know which would look better, but I'd say a moss wall would be more beneficial to the tank and the shrimps. (If you go with the moss wall, PM me and let me know how it goes/turns out. I'm interested.) Your shrimps' colors will depend more on how happy they are. 
7. I haven't "added" snails. They seem to come in on the plants. I've never had a need with the shrimps as my clean-up crew (in reef speak). 
8. CO2 would depend on your plant choices and your lighting. I'm not well-versed or versed at all on the topic, so someone else can answer that one. 
Good luck!


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## JESTERX626 (Sep 18, 2006)

thanks for the replies! Are they escape artists? Any stories of them crawling out of the tank?


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## duchessren (Sep 16, 2006)

They've got lots of legs. Amanos and Bamboos are notorious for their ability to crawl around out of the water, so I'd keep it covered. Also, be careful of the ghosts when you're straining them. They jump around like popping corn, but much more furiously. Keep the net covered. I've not had one crawl out before, but I guess its happened.


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## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

> 1. Do they create more waste than fish? So should I over filter with a stronger aquaclear powerfilter or should I just use tha 10 gallon one, Aquaclear 30?


I got fine by using an AquaClear Mini. No, they don't create more waste than fish, but if the tank isn't cycled, then even that small amount of waste may prove fatal to the shrimp.



> 2. Should I get a heater?


No harm in getting one. Shrimp supposedly get by fine in lower temperatures, but wither away in higher temperatures. However, you should try to keep temperatures as stable as possible, so a heater can help you in that department.



> 3. What other fish are compatible that wont eat shrimplets the shrimp bebbies? ahah


All fish will eat shrimplets if they see them. I don't know of ANY fish that will ignore a small snack like that. Even my boraras brigittae (3/4ths of an inch long) could take a leg off a shrimplet. Basically, if raising shrimp is important to you, sucker-mouth fish are your safest bet, with corydoras fish a close second.



> 4. Whats the proper way to acclimate shrimp and for how long of duration?


Acclimate via the drip-line method. This method takes at least an hour. I've also done the cup o' water method with 100% success using the directions on drsfostersmith.com in the past.



> 5. How big do they get in inches?


The starter shrimp that were mentioned were cherries and glass shrimp right? Glass shrimp get close to two inches long, maybe more. The cherry shrimp stay just under an inch long, and the males stay around 3/4ths of an inch long.



> 6. I was thinking, would my 10 gal tank look better with the back of tank painted black or should i make a moss wall such as this in this DIY? Or would a black background bring out the colors of the shrimp more? Suggestions please.


This is up to you. A darker background brings out bright colors, and the dark or light green of the moss wall would also contrast well with bright colored shrimp. I should also mention here that the intensity of a cherry red's coloration is partially dependent on the amount of light it's subjected to. More light = better color.



> 7. What type of snails should I add? I've read on freshwaterinverts.com that they can pummel the ph to dangerous levels or something? Can someone explain this?


Again, your call. MTS (malaysian trumpet snail) are supposed to be great for keeping your substrate turned and aerated. Almost every other snail will do a good job of eating leftover food and will eat some algae also. I don't see how they can affect the pH of the water, but I could see why the kH and gH of your water might decrease. As a result the water's ability to buffer the water may be useless and the addition of CO2 may result in a very low pH.



> 8. For my small 10 gal tank should I just buy a sugar/yeast co2 system for it?
> Or with such a small tank should I even use co2 for my plants??


There's a sticky in the DIY section of this forum that gives very simple step-by-step directions on how to make your own CO2 system. It'll take you as long as it takes to drain a 1.89 liter bottle of gatorade, and five minutes. You could probably get away with simply dosing Excel with a ten gallon tank, but adding CO2 will help lower your pH, and that may be good for you since most shrimp seem to like the lower end of the scale.



> Are they escape artists? Any stories of them crawling out of the tank?


Like any living organism, if their environment sucks, they'll try to leave, so you'll need to keep up with your maintenance and water changes. Once in a blue moon, however, you'll hear about someone who takes care of their shrimp but had one or two just jump ship. I don't think you'll need to worry about having a glass top as a necessity or anything though.


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## JESTERX626 (Sep 18, 2006)

Duchessren how come Neon tetras post more of a threath to shrimp, can you elaborate on that?


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## duchessren (Sep 16, 2006)

Neons eat meat and plants. Shrimps are meat. They shouldn't be a problem. I just meant that the neons would be more dangerous to the shrimps than the shrimps would be to the neons. Sorry about any confusion.


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## JESTERX626 (Sep 18, 2006)

I still dont quiet understand, are you saying the neon tetras will attack my live plants and my shrimp? sorry for all the questions.


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## Neon Shrimp (Apr 26, 2006)

If your shrimp ever breed the neons and any other fish that can fit a baby shrimp in its mouth will eat them The only truly safe fish are Herbivores, namely Otocinclus. Otherwise have many plants if you plan to have any baby shrimp.


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