# Attaching LFS Background to Tank



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I just bought a black/blue background from Petsmart for my 45 gallon glass tank. I assumed it had directions printed on the edge, but I was wrong. So, what is the best way to attach this to the back of the tank? It is a mylar type material, stiff but thin, blue on one side and black on the other.

From googling the subject I get mostly recommendations to skotch tape it on. Second most recommended is to use vaseline. Neither sound right to me. When I got this tank used, it had a mirror background that was attached so firmly I had to pull hard to get it off. That is where I want to be with this one.


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## gforster (Jul 30, 2006)

What I have found to work the best is to put some soapy water (liquid dish soap) on the back of the tank (outside glass) and press the background on. It sticks and dries without smear marks or scotch tape on the side of the tank. of course, you have to be very careful not to get the soap IN the tank. I'm interested to see what other methods are out there. I guess if you found a clear glue, that would work as well.


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## voshod (Mar 22, 2007)

I've tried vaseline method. I can't say it was too bad, but it took really alot of effort to get all of the air bubbles out. Either I was doing something wrong or it's suppose to take alot of effort ... Also, since alot of effort in my case means really alot of effort I managed to scratch the surface a little bit and I have a couble of ugly black lines going through tank background. Overall it came out looking pretty nice, if you don't look at the scratch marks I made, but that can be easily avoided if you think before you put the force into it.


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## troy_h (Jul 12, 2005)

I use windex, lay the background down and squeegy everything out with a soft plastic putty knife, just like you would window tint. Make sure the top of the background slips in under the rim a bit. Trim with razor.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Soapy water, vaseline and windex: do all of these hold the background for several years, or dry up and let it drop in a few months? When I removed the mirror background from the tank I had to pull hard to get it off. Would one of these do that?


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## troy_h (Jul 12, 2005)

At least in my experience, the Windex will hold until you decide to remove it as long as the edges don't get damaged and you squeegy out all the air bubbles. I work from the top down, soak the glass good but avoid foaming it, lay the edge down and slide it under the rim (you can look from the inside to make sure it doesn't have bubbles hen you slide it in under the rim) and then squeegy it towards the bottom as you unroll it, don't just lay it flat and then squeegy it as you'll end up having towork bubbles to far to to the edge.

Just get a razor blade under a corner and peel it off if you don't get it right the first time. Don't use a pin to "pop" air bubbles though, you'll end up with a larger bubble in the end.


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## kunerd (Aug 2, 2007)

Y not just spray pain the back of the tank black


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

kunerd said:


> Y not just spray pain the back of the tank black


Spray painting the back is what I have done before, but this time I am re-doing the tank today, so I won't have time to wait for the paint to dry and do the three coats needed to get good coverage. Plus, spray painting means lots of masking and clean up. That technique works best for the initial tank setup when you aren't under any time pressure.


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## bartoli (May 8, 2006)

I have used vegetable cooking oil and Sea View (a commerical product). Both worked very well.


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## kunerd (Aug 2, 2007)

what about just using stick glue from the good ol kindergarden days.
seriously though it drys clear it should work


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

kunerd said:


> what about just using stick glue from the good ol kindergarden days.
> seriously though it drys clear it should work


There are several glues that might work, but I'm not willing to be a pioneer on this subject. It is just too much work emptying the tank, moving it back from the wall, removing the background, cleaning it up and redoing it, then rebuilding the tank again. I seek instant gratification!


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## gforster (Jul 30, 2006)

I've had used soapy water on a few tanks and the backgrounds have held up - even while moving the tank into a moving truck and to a new location. I have never had one fall down. They aren't super hard to get off, but it does seem semi-permanent.


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## kunerd (Aug 2, 2007)

hoppycalif said:


> There are several glues that might work, but I'm not willing to be a pioneer on this subject. It is just too much work emptying the tank, moving it back from the wall, removing the background, cleaning it up and redoing it, then rebuilding the tank again. I seek instant gratification!


well what more instant then scotch tape. on my first tank i just used packing tape and it held up for over a year


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

I have to say I use good quality tape on all my backgrounds and it takes years to fall off. I find the that you need to make sure that the background is under slight tension to prevent folds and creases.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Thanks to all of you for the suggestions. I did the windex method, and it seems to work pretty good. I also taped it several places around the edge for backup security. Right now I am exhausted from tearing down the tank, changing the stand, rebuilding it all over again. I used a mix of river silt and soilmaster for a substrate, but that's another story.


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## Kelley (Aug 27, 2006)

hoppycalif said:


> I used a mix of river silt and soilmaster for a substrate, but that's another story.


I can't wait to hear all about it.


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## Chuppy (Aug 5, 2007)

Well, I use the thin double sided tape.. found it rather efective...


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