# ? for people who use TEK lights



## bienlim (Feb 10, 2006)

do u use acrylic cover for ur TEK light? just wondering if its neccesary or safe. would be nice if its included when u buy it but unfortunately it doesnt.....let me know what u think..thanks


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## kkau1 (Jun 22, 2006)

I was wondering the same thing when i got my Tek lights. Sounds like most people don't get them. I don't have a cover and thigns have been fine so far. Although having one would be a bit of peace of mind i guess. I was just too cheap to get it.


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## bienlim (Feb 10, 2006)

i think it would be nice to include it with the fixture when u buy it, well where i got mine which is here in vancouver they are charging me $100 for 6x54 fixture ... i mean ....... .... common!!!!


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## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

My bubls have gotten splashed while they where on and pretty warm but they didn't shatter so I stopped worrying. It does take longer to clean without the shield.


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## Kip (Jun 29, 2007)

I don't use a cover with mine but leave a plexi cover on the tank ... it gets how if the lights are 4" or less to it.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I bought the acrylic cover for the piece of mind of not having to deal with water spots on the bulbs or the reflectors. I use the Tek legs with the fixture, so it raises it off the water about 8 inches. The acyclic cover has some, but not many spots (maybe a dozen spots) on it over the past year. If I were to buy the fixture again, I wouldn't add in the acrylic cover. 

-John N.


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## iceblue (Dec 2, 2005)

I use one on mine even though it is suspended and I have a glass cover over the tank. When I am messing around in the tank things can get kind of messy... Not too worried about splashing water but I have dinged that acrylic cover more than a few times with tweezers when replanting. Shudder to think what would have happened if it had not been there.


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## ruki (Jul 4, 2006)

I don't use the cover on my lamp, but use a glass top on the tank, since evaporation makes things too humid in the basement. Just have to keep cleaning the cover every month...


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## K20A2 (Aug 12, 2006)

Anyone who does not use the acrylic cover on the fixture run the lights over an open top tank?

I'm planning on doing this and am just curious as to what I should expect.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

It should be easy enough to make your own acrylic cover. Any good plastics supply shop will usually have scraps they sell for cheap. All you need is a table saw or a friend with a table saw.  That being said I use a Tek light and have never worried about using a cover. I do make sure to turn the filter off when doing water changes to keep the splashing to a minimum.


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## bienlim (Feb 10, 2006)

thanks to u all ,i made up my mind and i will not getting the covr anymore,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks a lot


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## nfrank (Jan 29, 2005)

Hi.... This is a slightly new thred, but subject line is appropriate.

I am thinking of getting 4bulbT5HO TEK light for new 4'(w)x2'(d)x2'(h) 120g. This Oceanic tech tank will have rim.
Cant decide on TEK feet vs hanging cables (from ceiling). 

What are pros and cons , particularly regarding tank access (i.e., how easy is it to temporarily move fixture with either option) and how close do folks keep their fixture to tank rim to minimize light bleed.
Thanks, Neil
(I believe this is my first post on APC!...., but hopefully wont be my last!!)


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## Avalon (Mar 7, 2005)

I never used a cover on mine. I thought it was too expensive. I tried to suspend mine about 6" or more over the tank, so this helped with water spots. 

As for tank access, I used the suspension cables and it was a breeze to work on the tank. Simply raise it up as high as you want and lower it back down when you're done.


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## nfrank (Jan 29, 2005)

thanks for the tip about the cables. 
Since i have not seen the fixture or cables in person, can you explain if there is a device that permits them to be raised? (are their pictures or diagrams on line?)

I would also still like to hear from the folks that have TEK legs (or TEK feet) to find out how easy it may be to move the fixture to the back. Of course with 24" deep tank, that would still only leave 12" of access so easily moving the lights completely out of the way may be a preferred option.
From many of the posts, I know that folks have those legs. I would appeciate the feeback. Thanks.
Neil


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## Avalon (Mar 7, 2005)

Here's an old post of mine regarding the Tek Light with pics (from another forum): http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/equipment/27347-sunlight-supply-tek-5-t5-light-review-w-pics.html


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## nfrank (Jan 29, 2005)

the optional cables look very nice. Ceiling connection looks very clean. Can you explain where the cable goes when you use the friction clips to raise the light? Also, do you know if there is difference in the quality of the ballast, heat sinks or type of housing between the cheaper horticultural and more expensive aquarium fixtures? 
Still hoping to hear from other TEK users about the feet and to learn number of bulbs used on different tanks and if light intensity was determined to be limiting for certain plants. I am thinking 216 watts for the 4'x2'x2 tank.


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## Avalon (Mar 7, 2005)

The cable will run off the back of the unit (and will not get in the way of the tank unless you trim them too short) when raised. The only difference between the horticulture version vs. the aquarium version is an extra power cord--that's it. There is a post on this site that details how to add your own power cord if you wanted. As for intensity, a 4 bulb fixture will easily grow anything in a 24" deep tank; 216w is too much over a 75g. Many people are having great success with only 108w over their 75g's. I DIY'd 160w (2x80w) over a 5' 100g and had no problems growing anything. The bottom line is that using the proper reflectors (like on the Tek Light), T5HO's are intense, probably about twice as intense as compact flourescents.


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## nfrank (Jan 29, 2005)

it would be great if you can provide or point to a picture of the raised unit and the position of the dangling cable. I can't seem to visualize what happens if the cable is cut too short, other than to prevent the fixture from being placed as low.


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## Avalon (Mar 7, 2005)

Here's the best picture that I have that might be of some use. You can see the very long cable hanging off the left side of the tank (the thin one, not the thick one--the thick one is a power cord to something else). Due to the nature of the type of wire used, it's not limp and will go slightly in it's own direction, kind of like a water hose when not rolled up properly. The wire is flexible though, but the slight rigidity allows it to bow out and over the back of the tank and out of the way. There is no bump stop at the end of the wire (just on one end-the ceiling mount), so if you cut it too short, the light will fall straight off the wires if you let it go. In order to do that, you'd have to be holding the friction clip open, which can be done with one hand. The best advice if you want to leave a little wire is to simply roll it up like a water hose and use zip ties to hold it together, then let it rest on the top of the fixture.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Looking at that photo, why couldn't you epoxy a tiny magnet on the back of the fixture, and a mating one on the wall? Then to move it out of the way for maintenance just push it back and let the magnets hold it back out of the way. That seems like a lot less bother than pulling on the cables to raise it.


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## Avalon (Mar 7, 2005)

hoppycalif said:


> Looking at that photo, why couldn't you epoxy a tiny magnet on the back of the fixture, and a mating one on the wall? Then to move it out of the way for maintenance just push it back and let the magnets hold it back out of the way. That seems like a lot less bother than pulling on the cables to raise it.


? You mean attaching magnets to the fixture to swing it out of the way? That's way too complicated. Besides, how are you to see what you are doing when digging around in the tank?  I promise it takes no more than 5 seconds to raise the entire fixture, and probably 10-15 to lower it...only because it takes a few more seconds to level it out. I suppose one could mount little lead weights (like those found on fishing line) to act as markers when lowering it so you get the right spot every time.

On a side note, I'm wondering in the back of my mind why the ordeal about how the fixture works...this is easily the best light fixture I've ever owned. Aside from the light output itself, it's extremely easy to move out of the way and replace when it's time to take care of business in the tank. I'd buy another in a heartbeat (I'm going to actually). A real PITA is a canopy with DIY lights.


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