# [Wet Thumb Forum]-Retrofitting 20" strip light



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

Hi, All.

I'm thinking of retrofitting my strip light for my 10-gallon. I'd like to find out people's experiences. I'm looking at the 2x13W kit from AH Supply. Is it pointless since I wouldn't get a reflector, or will this allow me to grow strong-light-requiring plants like anchored-down riccia? 

I think I posted previously, regarding the same thing on a different forum, and the responses I got were that the light distribution would be bad. But I'd also like to hear from people who have actually retrofitted (if there are any of you reading this) and find out if it's worth doing. Otherwise, I may spend $50+ to get a Coralife strip light, which I'm thinking would be overkill and a little more money than I'd like to spend.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

-Naomi


----------



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

Hi, All.

I'm thinking of retrofitting my strip light for my 10-gallon. I'd like to find out people's experiences. I'm looking at the 2x13W kit from AH Supply. Is it pointless since I wouldn't get a reflector, or will this allow me to grow strong-light-requiring plants like anchored-down riccia? 

I think I posted previously, regarding the same thing on a different forum, and the responses I got were that the light distribution would be bad. But I'd also like to hear from people who have actually retrofitted (if there are any of you reading this) and find out if it's worth doing. Otherwise, I may spend $50+ to get a Coralife strip light, which I'm thinking would be overkill and a little more money than I'd like to spend.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

-Naomi


----------



## Jon Mulzer (Mar 9, 2003)

I believe that the 2x13 kit's reflector will fit in most light strips. I think I saw a DIY article somewhere on their site about it. There is also the option of building your own hood or buying a kit from AH Supply. For a 20" tank you could fit a 1x36w kit if you wished. I have done the same to my tank and the light is amazingly intense. I wouldn't be afraid to grow any high light plants now. And as an added bonus it lights up half my office at night before the timer kicks the lights off.









----------------------------

15XH, 36W PC, XP-1, Onyx Sand, DIY CO2

Crypts ciliata and wendtii bronze and red, "sunset" hygro, green hygro, pennywort, wisteria and java fern and moss.


----------



## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

I have put the cheaper (no reflector) kit into a 20" strip light and over a 10 gallon tank. It's plenty of light but the distribution sucks. Lighting smaller tanks is more a problem of distribution than anything else. I had the same problem with a 5.5 gallon tank. If you were able to either build or buy a canopy for the 10 gallon tank the 2x13 kit would be fine. But with the normal glass cover on the tank you are either going to have light in the front or in the back.

Moderator










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

See my Profile for tank details.


----------



## countrymouse (Jul 6, 2003)

You might want to consider (because it's probably cheaper and at least as effective) getting an incandescent hood or light strip and using screw-in flourescent bulbs. You can get 6500K spiral flourescents at 1000bulbs.com for under $6 each plus shipping, although you do have to wait for them to order from their supplier before they ship to you. Alternatively, GE makes a daylight (6500K) post light, but it's about $16 at Lowes. I haven't checked lighting stores yet to see what they have. The ten-gallon incandescent hoods are rated for bulbs up to 25 watts each, and you can get one at Walmart for under $20. The main problem is that they will most likely produce more heat than the retrofit kit.


----------



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

With 36W on a 10-gallon, I'd be afraid of perpetual algae problems. To this day I *still* can't get my nutrients balanced in my tanks. So I think I should err on the side of not-enough light. 

I guess the way to get around this problem of poor distribution would be to choose my plants carefully and plant strong-light demanding ones directly under the lights. And the foreground should probably be something that can fare decently with moderate lighting. I suppose if it doesn't work out, I'm only going to be out $14+shipping.

Okeedoke. I will give the retrofit a try but remain cautiously optimistic about the results I'll get. Thank you, all!

-Naomi


----------



## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

Don't forget to order bulbs!

Moderator










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

See my Profile for tank details.


----------



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Rex Grigg:
> Don't forget to order bulbs!


Thanks - I ordered two 5000K bulbs, which, strangely, was more expensive than the 6500K ones. I was thinking about ordering one of each, but then it would have been more to think about when deciding on placement of plants. I get confused very easily







...

I hope I can manage to do the retrofit without electrocuting myself


----------



## Overfloater (Apr 2, 2004)

Gnome:

I have retrofitted a 20" strip light with the kit from AH Supply. I bought the "Deluxe" 2 x 13W kit which basically comes with the reflector extra. Oddly, the pics they have on the website are of the regular kit with no reflector. I figured out why when I tried to retrofit my striplight. You have to pull out the plastic "insert" to fit the reflector, and even then there is no room to mount the ballasts so I had to mount them to the back. Not to mention the fact that there is some wiring issues and screw placement you have to contend with. Also the instructions made no mention of the reflector... odd. I basically had to wing it and put it together as best I could design it. It's not the prettiest but it isn't too bad. The light output is bright and well focused with the reflector, I cannot comment on the setup without the reflector. 

Bob


----------



## Pedro (Jun 11, 2003)

I would recommend buying/building a hood for the tank in question before proceeding with any lighting upgrades. This will give you much better light distribution, as Rex stated, it will also make wiring and ballast placement easier. With an open back hood you also wont have to contend with the over-heating issues like you would if you used the old strip.

As a side note, in my experience with small and nano tanks the wpg rule breaks down. At this point tank depth becomes more important than tank volume. Over my two gallon planted tank, I have two T5 8w NO bulbs. According to the wpg rule this is 8 wpg, which sounds like over kill, however, 16 watts is a relatively small amount of light no matter how you look at it.

Good luck with the upgrade!


----------



## Pedro (Jun 11, 2003)

I just noticed the date of the last post... You probably already went ahead with an uprgade of some sort or another? How did it go?


----------



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

Yes, I went ahead and ordered the Bright Kit from AH Supply. It's supposed to get here today or Monday. Understand, however, that the tank itself is not yet set up. I have an old 10-gallon (still in near-new condition) that I've been wanting to take out of storage and set back up after about two years. Since I already had the All-Glass full hood for it, I decided it would be worthwhile to go the cheap route and try the retrofit.

I still need to get a tank stand, a glass canopy cut (I've already tried and hated the Versa-top for my 5.5-gallon), and decide on a substrate. If I were more creative and had paid attention in general physics (13 years ago), I might be inclined to build my own hood. But I'm truly worried about electrocuting myself and would rather minimize the amount of D-I-Y I do with stuff that involves electricity.

I don't actually see this tank up and running for at least a month. But I'll certainly come back with an update when it happens. I'm really excited to see what sorts of plants can be supported with the upgrade.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

-Naomi


----------



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

Okay, the kit arrived today, and I'm already in desperate need of help. As I was disassembling the old unit, I discovered that it was not an All-Glass, but a Perfecto. This is fine, I think, but the instructions say, "Gently remove the white interior as far as the wiring allows, then twist off the wirenut that connects a power cord wire to a ballast wire." If I'm correct, this is a set of little plastic thingies located close to the on/off button, holding the split electrical cord to a wire that runs to either bulb socket. Well, I can't "twist off" this plastic thingie (because it's not "twisted on" to begin with), and I have no idea how to open it. Should I just cut it off by snipping the wires that the nut connects? I knew this was going to be too complicated for me.









Might anybody here be able to advise me on what to do? Thanks.

-Naomi


----------



## Overfloater (Apr 2, 2004)

You can cut them, just make sure you have enough wire to do what you need to.

Bob


----------



## gnome (Jan 27, 2004)

UGH!!! I managed to forcibly open and remove the wire nuts (if that's what they were). Note how I use the plural. Only after I snapped off the second one did I realize that I was only supposed to remove the one that holds the wire that goes to the bulb socket... And now I can't figure out what they mean by "ballast." I think it's that metallic little box thingie that's actually pretty heavy. I can't get it out! It's set in place with this plastic doohickey that I'd have to shoot off with a shotgun! This is a horrible mess, and I think I'm going to put up the retrofit kit for auction or something. I am the most incompetent ignoramous with electronics.

Anyway, Godslayer, thanks for trying to help. I'm going to wait until December and buy myself the Coralife hood as my birthday/Christmas present. I can't fix that wire nut that I wasn't supposed to remove. I physically snapped the thing apart (and I even if I were able to find another wire nut just like it, I wouldn't remember how it goes on)... Now I can't even use the "original" hood. Well, at least all of this happened before I had a chance to electrocute myself







.

Thanks, all. I guess there won't be anything to update you on 'til sometime next year.

-Naomi


----------



## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

CAll AHSupply and ask them for help!

They are really nice and they have run into probably every problem that someone could get into. If there is a way to fix this, they probably will know.


----------



## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

If it was a wire nut that just attached two wires you can get more at any home supply store. The ballast is the heavy metal thing.

Moderator










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

See my Profile for tank details.


----------



## imported_Fred (Feb 1, 2003)

Naomi,
Go to the A H Supply website and look at the DIY hoods they have, they are rather simple plus you can order the reflecters separately.... also check out the pics they show of the retro fits. 

You may be able to get the tip sheet they offer when you buy the kits but have to ask for when you place your order. Most people forget to ask for it when they order....

Your hood may still be salvagable. If I'm not mistaken the wire is 16~18ga in the hood. You can get wire nuts in that size at most hardware stores.

Good luck
Fred


----------

