# Got new lights - and algae problem



## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

I recently bought a double 65-watt (daylight + actinic) for my 37 tall. Previously I had a double fluorescent 20-watt. 

Anyway, I've had a ton of trouble with algae since then. Basically 2 kinds:
GSA on my Anubias and glass. I've had to prune off a lot of Anubias leaves that got really bad.
A greenish-blackish "gunk" on my Limnophila. It doesn't seen like diatoms, but it doesn't smell bad or look blue like cyanobacteria. It almost has a look of old motor grease if it was GSA colored. Its really hard to rub off and when I can rub it off, it makes green particulates in the water.

Anyway, the problems are with my Limnophila and Anubias. I had just read in the one other thread about an Excel dip for Anubias - too bad I read it too late to save most of the leaves. The thing with the Limnophila is that its growing like crazy now, but the old growth gets covered pretty quick.

Typical paramaters:
nitrates near 10ppm
phosphate near 1ppm
iron near 0.3ppm
pH near 7.1
Dose with Excel twice a week and CSM+B once. Dose nitrates when I do a huge water change and they seem low (not lately).

Algae control: 2 brigs, 2 ottos, 1 SAE.


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## furballi (Feb 2, 2007)

Some said that increasing the phosphate to 5 ppm and more CO2 will kill the GSA. I've personally only had success by reducing the light intensity (tall plants covering the anubias). You would think that a lower level of phosphate (0.5 ppm) would be a better choice. Overstocking and overfeeding (more N and P) will also trigger GSA.


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## BryceM (Nov 6, 2005)

When you changed the lights, you set up an entirely new equilibrium in your tank. You'll only get back into balance if you account for the higher needs of the plants. You'll need more CO2, more macros, and more micros than before to keep up with what will surely be more rapid growth. Increasing light levels is the sureswt way to acheive algae problems.

BTW, I've never had very good luck with anubias except for shading them under other plants. If they're in direct light they'll almost always end up with some sort of algae.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

Hmm, maybe I had the Anubias thing down when I had low light intensity. I have a lot of Hygrophila growing, maybe I can get it to arc over the top of the tank.

Anyway, it is very difficult for me to get down past about 0.7ppm phosphate as that is my tap water level. A good CO2 system is my next big purchase (now that I have good lights). A (hopefully) temporary problem I have right now is overstocking. I moved my adult rainbows to the aquarium with the new light as my fry have gotten very large and went from the nursery to the other 37-high. If it wasn't for this late winter weather, I could ship some of them out!

Anyway, is the stuff on the Limnophila GSA that is way out of control? It seems to be the closest I can figure.

Will an Excel overdose do anything to it? I've had bad luck with overuse of Excel in the past and killed a couple of rainbows


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## BryceM (Nov 6, 2005)

Oh, I really wouldn't add more light without having a CO2 system already in place - especially if you're already overstocked. That's the surest way to algae. Also, I wouldn't recommend limitting PO4 at all. Somewhere around 2 ppm would be good. You'll be surprised how much PO4 a high-light tank can chew through in a week. 0.7 ppm would last my tank only a couple of days.

The black algae is probably a variant of BBA, especially if it's hard to physically remove.

IMO, I'd recommend against an excel OD. It sounds like a quick fix, but it doesn't address the real issue. You'll soon be right back where you started. The real solution is an appropriate supply of nutrients (carbon, macros, micros) to balance out your intense light.

High light will always cause problems, especially in a heavily stocked tank, if you don't have a solid plan for fertilizing and CO2.


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## furballi (Feb 2, 2007)

Frequent water change (50% of the water 2x to 3x per week) should keep the N and P at low level. You'll probably need to remove as much GSA from the anubias as possible using 1:19 chlorine bath. Anubias can handle up to two minutes in this solution. Rinse well with luke-warm water immediately after treatment. Use a toothbrush to remove dead/dying algae from the anubias.


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## 247Plants (Mar 23, 2006)

What they all said....

I would also ditch the actinic and get something 6500-10000

The spectrum actinics put out isnt useable by plants....


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

It seems to have slowed down a bit. I had cut down the photoperiod by an hour and added some phosphate, not sure which one is doing it.


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## Squawkbert (Jan 3, 2007)

Until you get more CO2 in there, sutting the photoperiod should help counter the increase in LUX from the 65W PCs. I had that tough beard algae growing on my Vals for a little while - a gentle rub of the leaves while dipping in 5% Clorox for 10-15 sec. helped a lot (didn't detatch all of the bba, but it killed it).

Remember to rinse lots before replanting (I did it all during a water change, used some of the old water in 2-3 buckets to do serial rinses).


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## iamcowboy (Feb 27, 2007)

If I read your thread right, you have a total of 130w. If so I did the exact same thing with the same result. Have fought algae now for about six weeks. I disconnected one of the bulbs to cut the wpg in half. Algae is receeding and I will try the full 130w again once I have it under control and my dosing schedule all worked out.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

The blackish algae is gone but now there is some of the fluffy green algae. Its not a big problem yet, but it is still unsightly.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

The Ambulias is growing nice now - its taking off like weeds. Some of the older leaves where the Hygrophila has reached the top of the water get the fuzzy green algae, but it grows really fast and the new leaves don't get it; so its not really a problem.


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