# Best way to get mineral deposits off of glass lid?



## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

Hey guys,
I am getting alot of what I assume is mineral deposits on my glass lids, and I am concerned this will affect the amount of light getting into the tank. The stuff seems really resistant to scrubbing, and I was wondering if I could use something like CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) to help clean it. I could rinse it really well afterwards, but would that be sufficient to remove all the traces of the cleaner?

If I should stay away from that, what can I do besides scrubbing?

Thanks,
Cat


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## Scotty (Jun 11, 2009)

I think vinegar is a good bet. I have used that before with good results. Just make sure they are dry before you put them back on the tank. Good Luck!


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## bdement (Jun 4, 2007)

I used to use a CLR-type cleaner on my glass cover and never had a problem. It's totally safe if you rinse well.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

+1 for bdement! CLR is good, but rinse throughly!


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## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

Ok, I will use the CLR and rinse really well.

Thanks guys!!
Cat


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

If your deposits on the glass are lime, then the CLR cleaner will work, but, I am afraid that what you are talking about may be much more resistant. If you have what I have, it will be clouded glass which is due to etching of the glass and redepositing of the dissolved silica. What happens is that during the day the lights heat the water surface and the glass. when the lights go out, the glass cools much faster than the water does, and so vapor from the warm water condenses on the glass. This water is pure distilled water and some of the glass dissolves in it. Then in the morning the lights come back on and heat up the glass, drying up the condensed water and redepositing the dissolved glass. The dissolved glass, which is silicon dioxide, does not redeposit smoothly. This process is repeated each day, and in a year or so, the glass is badly clouded. This is really tough to clean off, and I have not found anything yet that will take care of this problem, other than replacing tank tops every several years. I am thinking of getting some of those polishing compounds used by people who grind their own telescope lenses and trying them. Another possibility is coating the glass with something that is transparent, less soluble in water and which does not release anything toxic to plants or fish.


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## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

It may very well be etching.  I hope not. I just cleaned and rinsed one of the lids and am waiting for it to dry. I will see how that goes.

If it is, could I use some of the screen tops meant for lizards, or will that block too much light?

Thanks,
Cat


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

Screening will allow a lot of evaporation and CO2 loss---essentially as much as there would be with no cover at all. It probably would block as much light as a pretty badly clouded glass top would---which actually may not be very much. It would be interesting to do some tests with a light meter using a new piece of glass and then a clouded piece.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

I used to lay a paper towel on the affected area and then pour a little vinegar on the paper towel. Of course, this is after I have removed the glass top from the tank. The paper towel helps in keeping the vinegar in place.

I don't use a glass cover anymore because I think, I had the etching issue as well. Open tops do have more evaporation and heat loss but, it does give me an incentive to do a water change when the water level drops too much. 

Since my tank is a bowfront, a new glass lid costs more than I am willing to spend so, I do without.


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## tiffc (Jan 8, 2010)

I had pretty good luck with the vinegar method, but my glass top hasn't made the year old mark yet. So I guess the "etching" process hasn't affected it yet.


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## Scotty (Jun 11, 2009)

And thats why I dont use glass tops! I got sick of cleaning them. I like the looks of the open top. And my fish arent jumpers so I dont have to worry about that.


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

If it is silicon dioxide then about the only thing that will clear it is hot sodium hydroxide - not the safest of compounds to handle. I have found CLR to remove only some of the clouding; probably just removing the mineral deposits and, as HeyPK says, the rest is SiO2. You could try a safer high alkaline chemical like plain ammonia. But do it outdoors.


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## jeremy1 (May 6, 2007)

I use a razor blade and windex, seems to work for me so far as long as it's done weekly.


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## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

Well, the cleaning helped a little, but there's still some stuff on there. I will try the vinegar and see what happens.

I had the lids off for a while (I like it better that way because my lights make it hard to open the lids), but then I got an SAE. I heard they are jumpers and that I should have a lid on the tank. So, I'm back to the lids and the cleaning of them. If the vinegar doesn't work, I will try the razor blade next.

Thanks so much guys!
Cat


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Vinegar is acidic. If its SiO2 you'll have better luck with an alkaline chemical like ammonia unless its hydrofluoric acid but I dont recommend using that.


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## wizcard1 (May 4, 2010)

jewlers rouge or a whitening type of toothpaste takes scratches off aquarium glass so maybe that would work on the lids too.


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## jschlosser (Apr 24, 2010)

If it isn't etching, a razor blade and vinegar work great. I have switched over to polycarbonate for my tank. Not as durable as glass, but I don't have much trouble with lime, so it 1) doesn't matter and 2) is cheap enough to replace.


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

If you polycarbonate as a tank top, does it warp? If not----Where do you get it?


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## Scotty (Jun 11, 2009)

I used plexi glass for a top.... Yeah that didnt work to well, so I went and got some thicker stuff, still did it! I was surprised at how much they warp.


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