# Overrun by Beard Algea



## Dropdeadbob (Jul 14, 2004)

I've got a huge problem.
My tank is overrun with Beard Algea (see picture)
And having this problem almost 6 months now.
I tried a lot of methods, but nothing works.

- lighting pause
- using additives, making the water softer
- al kinds of algea killers (works temporarily)
- introducing shrimps and algea-eating fish

My tank has a size of 51 x 24 x 24 inch (130 x 60 x 60 cm)
Watervolume : 106 gallon (400 Liters)
Lighting : 3 x 36 watt + 2 x reflectors
Type of lamps : 1 x phillips 840 and 2 x 830
Lightning time : 12 hours
Temperature : 78,8 F (26 C)
Water-Value's : PH 6,8/6,5 KH 2 GH 4/5 No2 0 No3 12,5 Po4 1,5
Waterchange : 1 x a week, 25 % tapwater
Co2 : yes, method electrolyse (getting co2 from a electric carbon plate)

This week i've ordered a osmose filter.
And changing the lightning in the future with 4 x TL5 54 watt with reflectors.

Plant growth is going well, i even get bubbles from the plants after a waterchange.
But beard-algea is growing everywhere.
On plants, wood, heater, background, even on the sand.
Biggest problem is, i can buy new plants every 2 months 

(sorry for my bad english)


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## Bob Vivian (Sep 10, 2004)

Up your nutrient dosages, especially the nitrates. I guaranty it'll help.

If the question is more or less nutrients, the answer is usually more.

Make your increases gradually and give it time for the plants to respond.
If your plants are healthy the algae will ebb and then slowly disappear.

Bob


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## Dropdeadbob (Jul 14, 2004)

i can solve this problem by adding KNO3 ?


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## Cavan Allen (Jul 22, 2004)

Yes, you will probably need more kno3. That's only part of a balanced nutrient regimen though. I like to start with a 3 to 1 nitrate to phosphate dose and add extra phosphate as needed. There's plenty more information here about that. 

You should get a pressurized co2 system and not bother with the electrolysis plate. Those things are problematic in the first place and probably not enough for a tank the size of the one you have. 

What you have is more commonly called black brush algae or BBA.


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## sllo (Sep 29, 2004)

Not enough CO2 is the main problem with BBA. Iincrease your dosage and the BBa will stop growing. When you fix this the remove all the BBA by trimming infected plants, bleach driftwood and equipment affected. 
If you remove the BBA and do not fix the CO2 it will come back.


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## Bob Vivian (Sep 10, 2004)

I know it's a difficult concept to swallow. Algae are caused by deficiencies, not excesses (within reasonable limits). 

Your light level is driving the plants to consume nutrients faster then you are dosing.

Two things happen when your tank becomes nutrient short; the plant growth flags and the algae get a foothold.

Do your water changes and mechanically remove the algae. Gradually increase your dosages, starting with nitrates.

You will know you're headed in the right direction when the plant growing tips start coming in algae free.

If you see that algae are still spreading then up the dose again.

You may start to see green spot algae showing up. This usually indicates a phosphate shortage so up your dose to a ratio of approx. 1 part phosphate to 3 parts nitrate.

Your CO2 level is very important in preventing BBA so up your CO2 rate.

Also, keep an eye toward raising your trace dosing if you are not satisfied with progress.

The easy answer, I suspect, is that you are short in all of the above and that you should dump in more of every thing. But by gradually making increases and by working with one nutrient at a time you are more likely to arrive at a consistent, balanced dosing program.

Once you start thwarting the algae, take note of how healthy your plants are.

Bob


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## Dropdeadbob (Jul 14, 2004)

Ok, iv'e got a question about the nutrients.
@ this moment i use only a solution of iron and kalium.
And 3/4 of the normal doses.
So from this moment i'll rase this to normal doses.

For adding KNO3 and K2HPO4. i'll have to wait for this.
Because low on cash 

Do you have a link for me, about using KNO3 and K2HPO4 ?

Want to thank everyone for the quick response.
And i'll keep posting about the progress of the tank.


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Here's a good link for using the Estimative Index:

http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1

It covers fertilization quite well. The article should help you understand the reasoning behind fetilization. Towards the end of the article, there is an example of dosage requirements for a 20g (~75L) tank.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Issues that are probably causing you problems:

- This is a low light tank: 108w over about 106 gallons is just over 1wpg. If you want a higher light setup then get the 4x 54w lighting as soon as possible.

- Once the new lighting is in, replace the carbon block system with a pressurized CO2 system. The carbon system is not very efficient (if at all) and especially not sufficient for a tank of that size.

- Next get a lot more plants. Currently your plant load is very light.

- Now you can start working on getting your macros correct: I like to aim for 20-30mg/l of NO3 and around 3mg/l of PO4.

- Make sure your micros are good (Fe and traces).

It's better to work on the above in the order shown. It will not help to start adding a lot more Fe if lighting, CO2 and macros are not correct...


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