# Is This "Hair Algae?" Tom, Anyone? (Pic)



## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Here's a picture of an algae I haven't been able to get rid of. It's the only one that still gives me a hard time (thread, staghorn, green spot, bba all eradicated for the most part). I've identified it as "hair algae," though I had another algae a few months ago that I thought was hair algae that was "single stranded." This algae branches somewhat, and is much rougher/more rigid in texture. I know there are actually many types of algae classified as "hair algae," but it sure would be nice to get a real diagnosis so that I can treat it. Despite proper levels of lighting (3w/g), CO2 (30ppm), & Macros & Micros (per "Estimative Index" along with weekly 50% H2O changes), it keeps going. The only thing left that could be causing this is a long buildup of mulm in the Glosso and Hairgrass patches. I've recently pulled up large areas of Glosso to try to get a handle on this. I keep turning/burying the affected substrate, too (it attaches to the EcoComplete and decaying plant matter). I'm sick of pulling the algae out by hand & am anxious to be rid of it.









(That's HC, by the way, for size reference)


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## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

Sounds to me like it is cladophora.


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## Ptahkeem (Feb 16, 2004)

Hey Tony didnt you say something about excel getting rid of cladophora? Id give excel a try John but youll probably want to get some more info from Tony first.


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## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Gomer said:


> Sounds to me like it is cladophora.


As in Moss Balls or as in the stuff you had in your algae tank?

This stuff just chokes the hairgrass and glosso. I really don't see being able to physically remove it all, which is why this has been so difficult.

Ptahkeem--I tried Excel ODing a while back, but it coincided with a shrimp loss so I stopped after 2 doses. A little reluctant to try it again. I guess I could always set up a bucket with moss & shrimp to preserve some should the results prove fatal. I have a giant bottle of Excel that I've been using to dose 3-5 mL/day in addition to pressurized CO2.


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## Ptahkeem (Feb 16, 2004)

Damn sorry dude. Hm we still on for this weekend?


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## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Anyone with any success stories re: Clado? Blackouts?


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

Cladophora is really tough. It tolerates very long blackouts. The only way I could get rid of it was the bleach treatment. To kill it, one should give the plant 4 minutes in 5% bleach. This is very hard on plants. Fortunately, delicate stem plants that would not survive 4 minutes only have Cladophora attached at their base. The growing tips are free of it. Crown plants that have Cladophora attached can survive the 4 minute treatment. Treated plants should be moved to an aquarium that is free of Cladophora, and the old, infested aquarium should be thoroughly sterilized, along with the gravel, filters, etc. 

By the way, that is a good picture of Cladophora.


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## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Oh boy.

I think I'll continue with the Excel OD & see what happens. 

I'd really hate to tear this whole setup down.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

This is going to sound really crazy, but it's how I got rid of it in my 29 gal. Assuming it isn't everywhere, I would pull up the cladophora along with attached gravel, put it into a cup and nuke it in the microwave. Then I would add back the gravel and nuked cladophora back to tank after cooling it off (run cold water through it). The sae's loved to eat it then. I tried turning gravel over, so as to bury it, but that was too hard to do in planted areas. Luckily, I only had it in a couple of places in my tank, but it took care of it!


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

Excel will not kill Cladophora.
Nor will H2O2 at thew whole tank level.

I simply prune the infested area well.
Then rotate the top 1" under and that buries the algae alive.

You can do this in 1/4 or 1/2 tank sections each week.

If it gets stuck in plants, you can simply pull it out.
Use a comb for hairgrass, works well.

Good nutrient conditions, fast growth etc works from there to prevent it from doing well later.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Oleg (Jun 15, 2004)

A year ago I saw my Malaysian Trumpet snails ate Cladophora. I don't know if Trumpets can completely eliminate it. Does anyone have same experience? I would put Trumpets in one container with this algae to verify if they really can help. But I don't have them now.


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## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Figures, as they seem to be the only type of snail that I don't have right now. 

Anyhow, the Excel has stopped the Clado from growing over the past week or so. Tips are white, and it is losing it's rigidity (when healthy, it's like thick wool). It's also collecting on my Eheim intake, which means it's breaking down into the water column. I'll post a follow up on this thread in another week or so.


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## Oleg (Jun 15, 2004)

*waiting for updates*

Hi John, pease post any updates. Thanks!


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## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Continuing with Excel dosings. About 15 mL 5x/week on the 26-gallon. The Cladophora is no longer growing and is slowly disappearing. 

I'd wholeheartedly recommend this regimen to anyone with Clado issues.


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## sub-80 (Nov 15, 2012)

John P. said:


> Continuing with Excel dosings. About 15 mL 5x/week on the 26-gallon. The Cladophora is no longer growing and is slowly disappearing.
> 
> I'd wholeheartedly recommend this regimen to anyone with Clado issues.


I heard excel treatment doesn't work. I have a 125 liter (33 us gal) tank with alot of clado, before installing Pressurized Co2 system I dosed for a week 3-4 times the directed dosage. But no result, the clado stays the same size and only grows when I pour liquid fertilizer.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi sub-80,

Welcome to APC! This thread is about 8 years old but your post reminds me that Clado is still an issue for some people.

My only experience with Clado was several years ago. I caught the problem early before it took over a large area. The method I used was turning off all filtration, waited until the water stilled, and physically removed as much as I could. Turning off the filter helped keep any pieces that broke off from floating to other areas of the tank.

After removing as much as possible I filled a syringe with Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) 3% solution and 'shot' the effected area. Thirty (30) minutes after dosing with H2O2 I resumed filtration. I did not exceed 1.5 ml per gallon of H2O2 per 24 hour period.

I was successful but it was a pain.


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## sub-80 (Nov 15, 2012)

Thank you.

I have shrimps in the tank, will they harmed by this? 

The clado is covering various areas of the tank, to be come a true aquascaper i would rather face it than avoid it by starting a new.

I heard 3ml per gallon is fine, is that true?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi sub-80,

I did not have shrimp in the tank, but I had Cardinal Tetras, Apistogramma sp, and Corydoras sp. I only used 1.5 ml per gallon so I cannot answer if 3 ml per gallon would be excessive or not. I wish you success.


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## sub-80 (Nov 15, 2012)

I found Bell's hydrogen peroxide solution B.P



















Its 6% concentration if am not mistaken?
Should i dilute the xml of H2O2 solution with xml of water?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi sub-80,

Or just use 1/2 as much.


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## sub-80 (Nov 15, 2012)

This is my current situation.



















The plan is
1- remove the canister empty it and place it in a dark place.
2- use two buckets and a plastic wrap: one bucket (b1)with h2o2 and water the other (b2) just water. Remove plant place in bucket for half an hour the relocate into other bucket to rinse then place on plastic wrap. (Plants should be fine for few hours) or use a third bucket?
3- scrap the substrate that has clado and throw into the bin.
4-place air stone and airline into b1 and b2.
5-place dry fertilizer into the substrate.
6-return plants into tank
7- place sponge filter
8-after 3 days wash with boiling water.

This method shouldn't hurt the fish or shrimp.

In the tank I have 2 driftwoods, one with java moss on it. Should I leave the driftwood with java moss longer since it is completely covered with clado? Should I start with a new batch of b1 after every few plants or should one be enough?


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