# Hey guys! New 30 gallon build!



## EaZy DuZ iT (Jul 15, 2010)

Hello members. My names Mike, I'm new to the freshwater planted aquarium. I've been doing salt water aquariums for about 2 years now and I upped to a 55 salt and have a 30 left over(fully cleaned ready to go).

I have a 30 gallon aquarium with a coralife aqualight > T5 > 2x31Watts > 1 10k and 1 actinic Bulb. Do I keep the 10k and what do i replace the actinic bulb with? Colormax lamp? Will this be enough for plant growth?

I have a Marineland 200 rated for 50 gallons. Would that be a good filter? Or should i upgrade.

Also, what would you guys suggest being the best substrate. I went to petco and saw these type of live black sand that looked very nice, but I'm not sure if theirs are considered good. I wanted to buy this ---> http://www.petco.com/product/111998/...elandSubtrates ... About how many pounds would you guys suggest?

What type of c02 system for 30 gallon?

I have two 50w Rena smart heaters each rated at 20g. Should i use both? Whats a temperature supposedly to usually be around?

Thanks alot guys! I appreciate it! Any advice would be great.


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

Substrate in your planted aquarium is arguably the most important part of the system. You can grow plants in many different substrates, but this all depends on your level of commitment.

If you are looking for low maintenance, check out the Natural Planted Forum section. http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/

If you want to go high tech with pressurized CO2 and a fertilizer schedule, look into what the other people on the forum use as a substrate. My advice would be to find a journal entry you like, and attempt to replicate their setup, that way you have reference for the types of plants that grow, photo. period, etc.


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## dabrybry (Jun 27, 2010)

I agree with Joshvito. Having some dank substrate can make a big difference. Alot of the quality substrates come pre-cultured with helpful bacteria that will eat fish waist, detritus etc and turn it into more fertilizer 

As far as how much, that's sorta up to you. Some like tanks with a thick layer of substrate. But to get a nice even coat on a 30 gallon with enough to root some plants in easily, I'm guessing 40-50lbs of it? Maybe more? Again this depends on what look you want.

As far as your lights, I would probably go with the 6700k and the 10k. I'm not basing that off of any scientific evidence that one is better. But on my coralife box it says that the 6700k works best with freshwater planted aquariums

Goodluck with the new tank!
Bryam


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## riseabovethesun (Jul 15, 2010)

EaZy DuZ iT said:


> Hello members. My names Mike, I'm new to the freshwater planted aquarium. I've been doing salt water aquariums for about 2 years now and I upped to a 55 salt and have a 30 left over(fully cleaned ready to go).
> 
> I have a 30 gallon aquarium with a coralife aqualight > T5 > 2x31Watts > 1 10k and 1 actinic Bulb. Do I keep the 10k and what do i replace the actinic bulb with? Colormax lamp? Will this be enough for plant growth?
> 
> ...


Here is my two cents 

I use this light http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=13733 except I have two 6,700°K compact fluorescent lamps in it. Plants thrive well in my tank 

I use this co2 system: http://www.redseafish.com/co2.asp (the one on the right bio-system).

I've used the RedSea Flora base substrate which works amazingly BUT it gets super cloudy with the slightest movement of that substrate. It's also recommended (even on the bag) to change it every year, can push it to two sometimes. I switched to EcoComplete, which spikes your pH in the beginning, after about a few months it'll come back down but I've had no issues with it and have had my fish in it from beginning to end. I LOVE EcoComplete, the black brings out the colors of the fish and plants, it may be less of a natural look compared to the flora base, but it looks much better in my opinion. The EcoComplete is also gravel like and doesn't crush like the flora bases, it can hold nutrients, is easier to clean and isn't messy. However it ranges from 30-50 bucks a bag. But I do suggest getting a top notch substrate rather than getting something cheap and hoping your plants make it. Also I used 2 bags to cover my tank floor, but probably should have bought three to get a nice 2-3" depth, I got about a 2" in MOST spots, but could've used more.

I had talked to someone about the price difference in just buying a large pressurized system vs. what I do and there isn't much. With the RedSea CO2 I have, you buy (for 9.99 at my LFS) about every 1-2 months a replacement powder to pour in and get the cycle going, it takes like 2 minutes. Then it takes about an hour or so for the new powder to kick in and get the bubbles going. Some go with certain systems for aesthetics, which in the long run I may do someday but in the meantime this works perfectly.

I use a Rena Filstar XP1 (upgrading to an XP2 in a few months). It ultimately depends, I've read positive and negative reviews of both the Fluval and Rena filters. I've read mostly horrible reviews about the canister filter Petco sells,but I don't know. One bonus to the Rena is that it comes with a spray bar, but in the Fluval you have to purchase it separately. The spray bar is vital in my tank for the bamboo shrimp, madagascar lace leaf, and water in general. It's really easy to put together, easy to clean, everything is simple. You can even use your own carbon in it rather than buying the premade bags that go into it. I don't know much about the Marineland filter though, sorry  but the Rena works like a pro for me oh and it doesn't feel cheap at all some people think it does, I'm not sure why they think it.

I have a generic Walmart heater or something, it works like a champ. I'd LOVE one of these http://www.google.com/products/cata...-wBJ6wiwTS5JzQCA&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p but that's just because of the ease at reading the temperature and the other features. I just use the one heater and keep my temperature at 76-80 degrees Fahrenheit.

All of that is used in my 36 gallon bow front tank. I hope that helps a bit!


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## EaZy DuZ iT (Jul 15, 2010)

riseabovethesun said:


> Here is my two cents
> 
> I use this light http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=13733 except I have two 6,700°K compact fluorescent lamps in it. Plants thrive well in my tank
> 
> ...


Amazing advice boss, Thanks. Especially since i was leaning towards the exact same c02 setup, saw it for 30 dollars on amazon. With my lights and that c02 setup is it possible for my tank to look and have these feautures: INlcuding stones and woods/branches



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## EaZy DuZ iT (Jul 15, 2010)

Also risabovethesun, would you happen to have any pictures of your planted aquarium? Thank you for all your help.


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## riseabovethesun (Jul 15, 2010)

EaZy DuZ iT said:


> Also risabovethesun, would you happen to have any pictures of your planted aquarium? Thank you for all your help.


The CO2 setup works perfect for me, especially without having enough money for a pressurized system. You could eventually find a great cheap one I'm sure on Craigslist or Ebay but in the meantime it'll be fine. I'm bad with naming plants, but asked a friend and it looks like the main background is Rotala Indica and the floor is Mini Fissidens. The Rotala claims to be "moderate" level requiring moderate t0 high light and 72-82 degrees F and 6.5-7.5 pH. I think with a bit of time and work maybe 2 attempts you could get that plant going and I think the Fissidens would begin to grow pretty fine. It's pretty amusing that I can keep the apongeton ulvaceus growing and madagascar lace leaf, but then things like you're asking about I have no clue. The lace leaf is supposed to be difficult to grow, I've read mixed reviews though.

I personally think the 6700k bulbs are what is going to keep the tank going properly because they are the freshwater bulbs, the actinic and 10k is marine. Mine are also 65watt bulbs, I haven't tried any other bulbs on mine, but I know those work perfect. The light I have also has two switches to have one or both bulbs on and one switch includes a fan which I think is key in not messing with the temperature and I know some lights have gotten so hot they've cracked top glass lids. Oh that's another thing, I'll take a picture of how the top of my tank is, I don't use a lid I don't agree with them. I'll post that picture after I post this!

I think wood or stone would be perfect in there. Do you know what kind of plants/fish you want? That's something to really look into because some plants are going to want a different pH than fish and temperature and some plants need more light some need less. Also you may want to look into a spray bar if you don't have one that hooks to the filter or however, because like my lace leaf it likes a current flowing through it and my Bamboo shrimp eat from the current with their "fan" feet. You have to really keep in mind what you mix.

This advisor is a FANTASTIC place to start, just mix and match things it will tell you how they will mix or if there is any issues. http://aqadvisor.com/
Also www.liveaquaria.com when looking for plants has some great "quick stats" or you could of course get a nice book or online book.

My tank around when I first got it:








My tank about a month ago or something:









You can always message me if you have any other questions I'll try to help out!


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## riseabovethesun (Jul 15, 2010)

My light setup and my form of a 'tank lid' and no, nothing has every jumped out of this tank or even climbed out.

















Two of my favorite plants

















Spray bar is normally horizontal, I adjusted it to go diagnal. Decreased the current flow a little but still works really well. Also having it that way hasnt disconnected it or anything of the sort.


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## EaZy DuZ iT (Jul 15, 2010)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=110572311483&Category=67139#ht_2377wt_1137

would this be a good CO2 system?


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## riseabovethesun (Jul 15, 2010)

I don't see why not, I haven't used a set-up like that before. I'm sure someone around here has some input!


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## riseabovethesun (Jul 15, 2010)

Since the last photos I posted and only using the little Red Sea CO2 system I told you about this is how much my tank has progressed (ignore my DIY spray bar, haha bit of a blinding white).










So if you're wanting a set up like that because you don't think a dinky looking one will suffice, just know that it will. But if it's for the ease or just it in general I'd so go for it.


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## EaZy DuZ iT (Jul 15, 2010)

Hey guys just picked up the Turbo c02 system (red sea) its been on for about 2 weeks and i see alot of algae growth and it seems like my plants are dying. Their is a + and - on the bottom of the pump i had it almost full by the +. Am i using the c02 incorrectly? I leave it on all night, Am I supposed to do that? Thanks guys


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi EaZy DuZ iT,

The plus and minus on the bottom of the pump just adjusts the flow of water through the pump, it doesn't increase or decrease the amount of CO2.

How about starting your own thread with information about your tank, light, ferts, and we will try to help you resolve these issues.


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## riseabovethesun (Jul 15, 2010)

I have a similar one and I get more bubbles per minute when it is on the plus and I get less bubbles when it is on the minus, that might be what it is. Whether it is the air flow or not, when I test my water for CO2 when it's fully on the plus the CO2 concentration is higher and when I have it on the minus the CO2 concentration is lower, so I know that affects it.

I leave mine all the way on the minus, whatever CO2 you do use, you need to have a balance between CO2, light and water parameters in order to prevent algae and to maintain optimum growth.

Also you shouldn't leave CO2 on at night.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi riseabovethesun,

I understand. I believe what probably happens is with the greater water flow comes greater suction so more CO2 is drawn from the generator.


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