# Regulator assistance



## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

*Two easy regulator questions and one 'bubbles per second' question.*

edited

I ordered this regulator http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150396908794

I assume that Ill remove 'the output barb with shutoff' and attach my needle valve there?

Also, is there a valve I can get to go between the cylinder and the regulator so I can cut it off without messing up my knob positions?

Thanks.
B

Oh, how do I determine how many bubbles per second I need? I dont like the idea of increasing CO2 until the fish are gasping and then backing it off a little. Id rather have a way of figuring it out. The fish are my primary concern.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Anyone? Even if you just point me at the right threads for the info I need, Id appreciate it.

I also wonder about solenoids. When the power is on, does the solenoid open or close?


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## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

My regulator came with one built in, but yours doesn't seem to have that.You can find seperate bubble counters online. Search "aquarium bubble counter" on amazon.

The regulator says it comes with a check valve, so I don't think you need any other valves.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Thanks, Knotty.

Im good on all my components; everything is ordered including the bubble counter. Im wondering about how to calculate how many bps I _need_, not how many bps I have.

And not about a check valve, but a shut off between the tank and reg so that I wont have to turn off the tank or the reg, messing up the position of the knobs. Though I suppose I would just run the tank wide open, and when I turn it back on just open it all the way again.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Hi Sugar Cone

Rex has a good DIY, but he uses a Clippard low-pressure regulator attached to his solenoid and a Clippard needle valve attached to his LPR. Everything else about this build is good except for those two parts, IMO. I don't recommend getting Clippard's LPR and NV.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

Clippard low pressure regulator









Fabco and Clippard needle valve









I wrote the following assembly instructions using SuMo's kit and various parts that can be substituted.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-54.html#post838257



> ... And not about a check valve, but a shut off between the tank and reg so that I wont have to turn off the tank or the reg, messing up the position of the knobs. Though I suppose I would just run the tank wide open, and when I turn it back on just open it all the way again.


You simply turn the CO2 cylinder off and on with its knob on top. Clockwise closes it and counterclockwise opens it.

You are getting a single stage regulator. To prevent the low pressure gauge from "blowing up or breaking" you need to unscrew the regulator's knob counterclockwise until it falls off or very close to it before you ever open the CO2 cylinder and/or swap cylinders. Open the needle valve almost wide open (sometimes this step isn't needed, and never use the needle valve to cut the flow off or you can permanently damage it). Then adjust the working pressure as needed to get your working pressure. A needle valve with a Vernier handle makes it easier to dial the BBS/BBM in, but not required.

straight flow metering valve with Vernier handle









angle flow metering valve with Vernier handle









I use dual stage regulators and I can leave my needle/metering valve setting as is. I do unscrew the working pressure knob, but it probably isn't needed.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Thanks a lot for taking the time to post all that, Left C.

I have this needle valve on the way: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idproduct=CO3151&idCartRow=16748606&isKit=0 I saw it recommended on this site or on AC, I forget which.

Open the regulator and the needle valve all the way before opening the cylinder valve. Got it. I need to do more reading, Im not to clear on the working pressure thing.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> Thanks a lot for taking the time to post all that, Left C.


You are very welcome. I enjoy it.

The Victor/Dual Stage regulator thread is closed at TPT, but you can still view it. It's huge and it has a ton of info in it. You can tell that most of us were newbies when we started the thread. The very first post has a table of contents that is very useful for finding certain info instead of going though all the pages or most of them to find something.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-dual-stage-regulator-pimp-club.html

This thread is being continued on Tom Barr's site: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/6470-Dual-Stage-Regulators



Sugar Cone said:


> I have this needle valve on the way: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idproduct=CO3151&idCartRow=16748606&isKit=0 I saw it recommended on this site or on AC, I forget which.


That Clippard needle valve is absolutely the worst needle valve for our use. It's nothing more than a on/off switch. Send it back!

Try to find a Fabco NV-55 needle valve or an Ideal needle/metering valve. Swagelok, Nupro, ******, Parker make some excellent low and medium flow metering valves. Some have the Vernier handles.
Fabco NV-55 valve: http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#needle or http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/fabco-needle-valve/cName/co2-needle-valves

Ideal 52-1-12 metering valve: http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#needle
The Ideal valve is also at SuMo, but I don't know their price: http://www.sumoregulator.com/

Oregon Aqua Design and SuMo have post regulator kits that include practically everything that you need.

OAD: (Get the option Fabco valve and read what Jeremy is saying about the bubble counter.)
http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2

SuMo: (Their kit is uses very good parts; if you have the $$, get it.)
http://www.sumoregulator.com/PostBodyKit.html



Sugar Cone said:


> Open the regulator and the needle valve all the way before opening the cylinder valve. Got it. I need to do more reading, Im not to clear on the working pressure thing.


You've got it about turning a new cylinder on. Turn the knob closed on an empty cylinder and open the working pressure plus open the needle valve.

Orlando has several very good articles about regulators and CO2 systems.
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/planted-aquarium-blog/

Several of us use dual stage (two stage) regulators and we really like them. I wish that you had one, but the one that you picked is a very good single stage regulator.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

On bestaquarium it recommends running the Fabco inline with barbs. Where would I get the barbs?

Aw, man.. I dont want to have to reset my needle valve every time I refill my tank! Youre saying I should open everything all the way (and close off the cylinder) before disconnecting the cylinder from the regulator? That stinks. How much is a dual stage reg? Maybe I can send mine back.

Also, about the solenoid, when the power is on is it open or closed?


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> On bestaquarium it recommends running the Fabco inline with barbs. Where would I get the barbs?


Rex and OAD have the barbs. Just ask for them when you order.

I've never used a Fabco NV. I wouldn't like it hanging loose or zip-tied to something. That's why I use Ideal and Swagelok valves. They are attached to the solenoid solidly with pipe fittings.



Sugar Cone said:


> Aw, man.. I dont want to have to reset my needle valve every time I refill my tank! Youre saying I should open everything all the way (and close off the cylinder) before disconnecting the cylinder from the regulator? That stinks. How much is a dual stage reg? Maybe I can send mine back.


You can probably get away with unscrewing its working pressure to 0 and leave the NV alone when you swap out cylinders. This way, you just have to reset the working pressure which is easy. The gauge has marks on it to read it. But, if your new cylinder is a different temperate than the one that you removed, you can expect having to adjust it constantly.

Do a search on Milwaukee regulators. Some folks had good luck with them, but most had issues. Having to constantly tweak the needle valve was one of the main complaints. I certainly wouldn't recommend a Milwaukee regulator. Its failure rate is too high,but its customer service is very good.

Here are some responses from another forum concerning Milwaukee regulators and Hoppy. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/s..._searchinfo=1&photoplog_searchquery=Milwaukee

Check out my post and Hoppy's comments: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-33.html#post793120

Dual stage regulators list from ~ $200 to over $750. Many of use have picked up some very nice deals on ebay and other places from $10 to $75. Then we built out own CO2 regulators for aquarium use.

The regulator that you ordered should work fine (with its single stage quirks). It is what many people used until two stage regulators came into acceptance. The three CO2 regulator suppliers on planted aquariums use a similar regulator in their lineup.



Sugar Cone said:


> Also, about the solenoid, when the power is on is it open or closed?


Are you wanting to cut your CO2 off and on daily using its knob? Don't do it. Get a solenoid and a timer.

You can order solenoids both ways, but the ones that we use are open when the power is supplied.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Well, he says it can be used on the reg body, but he doesnt recommend it, as it could break the fitting. I would prefer it on the reg as well. Sadly, I cant afford a $40 valve.

Why all this Milwaukee talk? Is TapRite actually Milwaukee? I specifically bought one that _wasnt_ Milwaukee (or so I thougt).

So theres no way around having to fully open the regulator at least. Thats a bummer. No wonder people want the biggest tanks they can afford and hide lol.

Thanks for all the help, Left C. I appreciate it.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Many times, conversations lead to Milwaukee regulators which you couldn't pay me enough to use one. I wanted to stop it in its tracks. I'm glad that you decided against using one even though you ordered the absolute worse needle valve. :lol:

Crappy regulators and crappy needle valves have killed many fish and critters. 

Don't worry about having to open the working pressure to 0 before you connect a new cylinder. It's no big deal.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Yeah, well.. As a newb if that valve is the only bad purchase Ive made I think Im doing pretty well. 

Ill get that fabco valve, and Ill shoot Rex an email asking about attaching it to the reg vs using barbs inline.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

I bought one of those Clippard valves too. They are awful.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Thanks a lot for the help, Left C. I understand Rex can take a while to get back to emails and such, so Ill just have to wait to hear from him. Then I can order my valve and be done. Well, except for substrate.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

If I see anything on ebaY; would you like to know?

There are some Swagelok B-4MA Brass Med. Flow Angle 1/4" Tube Fitting for sale for $8 each plus shipping. It retails for $56.60. Item number: 7625250102 The guy is very slow shipping though. I bought three. There is a pair of adapters that you order from Swagelok that are quite inexpensive. This type of valve will work, but it's not my favorite design. If you get it, I'll help you with the adapters.
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_partnumbers_results.aspx?PS=B-4MA&PG=0&RPR=5

Item number: 120468519693 is a re-badged Victor HPT-270-200-580-DK chrome plated high purity stainless steel diaphragms inert gas dual stage regulator for $25 plus shipping. This regulator retails at super high prices. This one has a CGA-580 fitting where you may either get an adapter or remove its stock CGA-580 fitting and install a CGA-320 fitting. Since this regulator is for high purity gas use, no other gas enters it (like air) and the stainless steel diaphragms keep the inside clean. It is way overkill for our needs, but $25 is a super great price on an item that will last a very long time. There are several of us that have this regulator and everyone is well pleased with its service.
View: http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT270-280.pdf
Victor parts list and service: http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_2329_56-0676 HPT Series High Purity Regulators.pdf

Offer $15 or less for this stainless steel CGA-320 nut and nipple. Item number: 380125416726

Rex sells Clippard solenoids and Parker has some solenoids on sale at good prices that will work. Item number: 290388438779


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Wow, thanks!

Ok. So really, the only money I wasted is the shipping and return postage for the items I will return. Thats not the end of the world. $25 is a cheap lesson imo.

Ill get the valve. I can return the other one with no trouble.

It turns out I can return my reg, so I went ahead and got the one you linked before someone else did. I take it you prefer to remove the current fitting and and replace it over getting an adapter? Is there any particular reason? Oh, and do I need a check valve now? The reg I ordered originally has one built in so I didnt order one.

If I get the linked Parker solenoid will I need any additional adapters or fittings?

I cant thank you enough for all the help.

Ok. I made an offer for the fitting and for the valve. I guess we'll see.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Got a counter offer for the CGA 320 fitting, 15.50, making it 20.50. What are your thoughts on this?
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nipple

Is this the same thing?
http://www.reliablepaper.com/Regulator_Inlet_Nuts_CO2_p/312-6-CO-4.htm


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Ordered that solenoid too. Still waiting to hear about my offer on the valve, though $13 is probably a fair price. But how long will it take for me to receive it?


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> Wow, thanks!
> 
> Ok. So really, the only money I wasted is the shipping and return postage for the items I will return. Thats not the end of the world. $25 is a cheap lesson imo.


That's an expensive lesson for me.



Sugar Cone said:


> Ill get the valve. I can return the other one with no trouble.


That valve uses special adapters that you can only get from Swagelok. I'll look up the part number. Here it is and you will need two of them.

I have a spare one of those, but I can send you a better one for the same price including shipping. Send me a PM if interested.



Sugar Cone said:


> It turns out I can return my reg, so I went ahead and got the one you linked before someone else did. I take it you prefer to remove the current fitting and and replace it over getting an adapter? Is there any particular reason? Oh, and do I need a check valve now? The reg I ordered originally has one built in so I didnt order one.


I'm very happy!!!

You will be highly impressed with that regulator. It's not a toy and it will probably still be working past the year 2525.

If you get a 5 lbs aluminum CO2 cylinder, it will easily topple it over. Strap it down tightly.

Steel 5 lbs cylinders are OK. I don't have any 10 lbs cylinders and I can't help here. I do have steel and aluminum cylinders and they won't topple over.



Sugar Cone said:


> If I get the linked Parker solenoid will I need any additional adapters or fittings?


I'm not sure on this one. I haven't used one. I use Clippard and Burkert. Darkblade48 and others are using them. Would you like to contact him and he will help you? You may tell him that I asked you to contact him.
http://www.barrreport.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=26747



Sugar Cone said:


> I cant thank you enough for all the help.


You are very welcome!

Have you seen the light?

"The Blues Brothers" : 




[_while standing at the entrance to the Triple Rock church watching the service with much dancing and Hallelujah choruses, a heavenly light shines down on Jake and he has an epiphany_]
Jake: The band? The band.
Reverend Cleophus James: DO YOU SEE THE LIGHT?
Jake: THE BAND!
Reverend Cleophus James: DO YOU SEE THE LIGHT?
Elwood: What light?
Reverend Cleophus James: HAVE YOU SEEEEN THE LIGHT?
Jake: YES! YES! JESUS H. TAP-DANCING CHRIST... I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT!



Sugar Cone said:


> Ok. I made an offer for the fitting and for the valve. I guess we'll see.


OK

Two questions:
- Bubble Counter ... Are you doing to use one attached to the regulator or one that is mounted else where?
- Fittings ... This depends on the solenoid, the BC, the MV and the position that you want the metering valve in. I'll help here.
fittings: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-54.html#post838257

The HPT270's outlet is at 9 o'clock and the regulators in the above thread have outlets at 7 o'clock. We'll have to tinker a bit.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> Got a counter offer for the CGA 320 fitting, 15.50, making it 20.50. What are your thoughts on this? Not bad.
> 
> http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nippleI think that this 2½" one is too short for the HPT270.


The guy on ebay has stainless steel CGA-320 nipples and nuts. The chrome regulator looks better with either chrome or stainless steel fittings, IMO. 

But, brass will work just fine. That's what most of them are made from anyway.

You can save some money using brass. Why not go for it. Also, there may be a welding supply store in your area that have them.



Sugar Cone said:


> Is this the same thing?
> http://www.reliablepaper.com/Regulator_Inlet_Nuts_CO2_p/312-6-CO-4.htm


The stainless steel ones on ebaY are 3¾" long.

The HPT270 uses 2½" gauges where 2" gauges are the norm. You may want to find a CGA-320 nut and nipple 3" long. I think that the one from regulatortorchrepair.com is 3" long.

If this 3" one is too short, I swap you a stainless steel one for it. I need some brass CGA-320 nuts and nipples.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> Ordered that solenoid too. Still waiting to hear about my offer on the valve, though $13 is probably a fair price. But how long will it take for me to receive it?


A long time. 

People PM me asking if I have mine already. I ordered on the 16th and I got them on the 30th.

I sent you a note in one of the above posts about them.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Left C said:


> That's an expensive lesson for me.


Cheaper than killing all of my fish, I should say. They cost well over $25.



Left C said:


> If you get a 5 lbs aluminum CO2 cylinder, it will easily topple it over. Strap it down tightly.


Actually, I have an E-size cylinder donated by my buddy's boss. They are in the medical O2 business and he doesnt need all the CO2 cylinders he has.



Left C said:


> - Bubble Counter ... Are you doing to use one attached to the regulator or one that is mounted else where?


I bought a Spiro 7K diffuser. Im going to use that initially.



Left C said:


> - Fittings ... This depends on the solenoid, the BC, the MV and the position that you want the metering valve in. I'll help here.
> fittings: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-54.html#post838257


I dont think Ill be all that picky about the metering valve being totally upright, or whatever. As long as I can read it, Ill be cool. Im a bit lost in that thread... Am I supposed to be looking at the Swagelock fittings? The solenoid fittings? Thats a long-ass post, my man.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Got all my parts, and most of my fittings. I thought it was ALL of the fittings. Oh well..

Hit my first real snag.. See attached pic. Ive got two empty 'ports'. Does the solenoid go where the left arrow is, or where the bottom-right arrow is? I am fairly certain it goes at the left end, but this isnt something I want to guess about. And then what goes in the other spot?










Thanks.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> Got all my parts, and most of my fittings. I thought it was ALL of the fittings. Oh well..
> 
> Hit my first real snag.. See attached pic. Ive got two empty 'ports'. Does the solenoid go where the left arrow is, or where the bottom-right arrow is? I am fairly certain it goes at the left end, but this isnt something I want to guess about. And then what goes in the other spot?


You should have all the parts that you need if you ordered what we discussed.

This is everyone's (almost everyone's) first question.

The part on the right (at 5 o'clock) is the pressure relief valve. You leave it alone and do nothing to it.

The part on the left (at 9'o'clock) is the output. You can either leave the stock valve on or take it off. Most regulators do not have this extra valve. It is found mostly on some lab, high-purity, medical, etc. regulators.

If you remove the valve and all of its fittings, even the fitting that connects to the regulator, you will find a 1/4" female NPT port on the regulator. This is where your 1/4" male NPT x 1/8" M or F NPT reducer goes. You will find that you have all your parts. (Notice that Rex removes a valve on his regulator at the 6 o'clock position and uses slightly different parts.)

If you leave it on, you may have to find out what the threads are. I don't know. It's on my around to it list.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Cool. Thats what I thought. Im used to seeing the safety valves with some kind of terminal on the end.

I am totally together and its running smoothly with no leaks detected by the old soapy water test.

Dig it!









Couldnt have done it without you Left C! Literally!


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Great job!!!!

You need a red and white sticker placed on the metering valve like the ones on the re-badged Victor reg. :lol:

That was quick and easy, wasn't it?

Adjusting the working pressure was really easy and couldn't you feel the precision of the regulator when adjusting it?

How is your metering valve doing? Good adjustability and stability? Not too big?

Don't you have ~$100 in it not counting the CO2 cylinder?

Do you like this better than your original choices of a regulator and a needle valve?


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Dude, I would _love_ all the stickers to match!

It was a lot easier than I expected, yeah. But Im still not entirely sure about the working pressure.. I just have both knobs opened about half way and Im using the metering valve to control the flow. And speaking of the valve, its a dream. Ill know better tomorrow about the stability once I have the chance to leave it on all day.

Lets see all in, not including mistakes it breaks down to:

Regulator ............. $38
CGA-320 Fitting .... $ 7
Solenoid .............. $18
Diffuser ............... $20
Check Valves ....... $ 9
Needle Valve ........ $14
Various Fittings .....$ 8

Totaling at $114 including shipping charges.

Seeing as I never even tried the originally purchased reg and valve I really cant compare.. But I can pretty much guarantee that the valve I got from you is_ worlds_ better than that Clippard one.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

$114 dollars including shipping is a real deal for what you have there! 

You want to reduce the variables. Open the original needle valve on the regulator wide open and then reset your working pressure if needed. You don't need or want two controls for the very low flow rate that we use.

Do you like the Parker solenoid? I haven't read about any complaints.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Dude! My solenoid doesnt work. Dang it.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> Dude! My solenoid doesnt work. Dang it.


Wait a minute. That is a 'normally closed' regulator and it needs power to open it. It's running isn't it?

I ass-u-me-d that it was running already.

It's probably something simple.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Don't use WD-40 or anything like that. You'll have a bomb then.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Is your solenoid working? What was wrong?


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

[email protected] WD-40. No way, Jose. I know it needs power to open. No, that wasnt the problem.

While the solenoid was "working", it wasnt closing completely. When it was on there was a nice stream of bubbles. When it turned off, there were way, way fewer bubbles but there was still a fairly steady stream. I left it off for an hour to see if it was just residual pressure. It wasnt. This morning it was still 'leaking' into the tank.

I disassembled that part of my contraption. I used a brush to clean the female threads. I removed all the tape from the male threads and cleaned them with alcohol. I used compressed air, while the solenoid was open, to dislodge any crud, tape, etc. that mightve been keeping it from fully closing. Then I very carefully re-taped the males and put it all back together. It seems to be working now.

I thought I updated here with that solution.. I did it around six hours ago.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

That's great!! I'm glad that it's working.

There was another regulator just like yours for sale. Someone PM'ed me asking if another reg was fine. I told them to take a look at yours. They bought the reg like yours a few seconds later.


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Excellent! I think you underestimate your influence, Left C. lol. But if this thread can be any help to anyone else just starting out, even better.

I can confirm my solenoid is working, mustve been some kind of obstruction. My lights are off and there are no bubbles. Now lets just see if it wakes up tomorrow. lol.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> I can confirm my solenoid is working, mustve been some kind of obstruction. My lights are off and there are no bubbles. Now lets just see if it wakes up tomorrow. lol.


I have a handful of regulators that I need to build and I was going to order several of those Parker solenoids. It spooked me when yours didn't work. That's the first one that I've heard about that had problems.



Sugar Cone said:


> Excellent! I think you underestimate your influence, Left C. lol. But if this thread can be any help to anyone else just starting out, even better.


Something that I don't understand is that a few folks really dislike dual stage regulators and it makes no sense to me. You can usually find them cheaper than a single stage regulator and they are much superior in performance. The regulator that you were going to get is not much larger than the needle valve that came with your Victor HPT270. Plus, your regulator has stainless steel diaphragms. Your regulator might still be working in the year 2525 too. I just can't do anything but shake my head concerning "The He-Man Dual Stage Regulator Hater Club." :lol:

I'll never forget the day that I showed my local welding supplier one of my single stage Azoo regulators. He looked at it and started laughing. The next time I saw him, I showed him a mint condition chrome plated medical grade dual stage Victor VTS253A-1993 regulator (picture below) that I paid $29.30 shipped. I asked him what it was worth and how it worked. I came back and ordered me some more. I haven't regretted buying them and using them. There are quite a few other guys that feel like I do. Anyhow, picture time ...


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Left C said:


> I have a handful of regulators that I need to build and I was going to order several of those Parker solenoids. It spooked me when yours didn't work. That's the first one that I've heard about that had problems.
> 
> The next time I saw him, I showed him a mint condition chrome plated medical grade dual stage Victor VTS253A-1993 regulator (picture below) that I paid $29.30 shipped. I asked him what it was worth and how it worked.


My solenoid didnt have a problem. I did. Im confident it was some little scrap of tape that I didnt bother to clean out the first time I assembled it.

And what did he say then? lol


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Sugar Cone said:


> My solenoid didnt have a problem. I did. Im confident it was some little scrap of tape that I didnt bother to clean out the first time I assembled it.


Well ... you still did very good work for a rookie. :;



Sugar Cone said:


> And what did he say then? lol


He saw the solenoid on the Azoo and said to his partner, "Look at this little thing, it has a heater on it, hahahahahaha ..."

I never showed him this POS. I hated this reg.










When he saw the medical grade dual stage Victor, he told me briefly how it works and that it is like having two regulators in one. He also said that it is worth much more than I paid for it. I haven't seen the going price as high as he mentioned. For some reason, these dual stage regulators cost much more than single stage regulators when new, but used you can often find them cheaper than single stage models. Sometimes new ones are cheap too. A month ago, I got a new dual stage Matheson TriGas 8-320 with the CGA-320 connection for $11.51 plus shipping. 
http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/matheson-tri-gas/regulators/30801-32596.html


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## Sugar Cone (Jan 2, 2010)

Thats high praise coming from a veteran like yourself! Thanks!


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