# Cycling a New CRS Tank



## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

I have setup a new 30 gallon tank intended for CRS only. It has a new sponge filter rated up to 40 gallons, black 3M ColorQuartz pool filter sand, 72F, a peat bag to lower the pH to 6.2-6.4, lots of Java Moss, and lots of baby narrow leaf java ferns. I have liquid rock local tap water with a pH around 8.0-8.2 out of the tap. The peat bag helps to drop the pH. I dose Greg Watson dry ferts & Excel once a week after the 1/3 water change. 

I have been attempting to begin to cycle the tank w/ 2 full grown Black Skirt Tetras for almost 2 weeks now, have been testing the water, and haven't noticed the Ammonia spike or the beginning of the Nitrite spike. Are the plants getting in the way of the Nitrogen Cycle? Should I up the bio-load? I'm in no hurry to get the shrimp into the tank, but it doesn't seem to be cycling. Am I just being impatient?


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## ianiwane (May 6, 2005)

You need more filtration. One sponge filter rated to 40 gallons will not do the job. I had a sponge filter rated to 40 gallons on my 10 gallon crystal shrimp tank and it barely did the job (I recently put a canister filter on it). For that size of tank with crystals I would get a canister and cover the intake with a sponge.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

If the tank is packed well with plants, you shouldn't see much a cycle as the plants are very good at consuming nutrients. If you have another tank, take some old filter sponge, and let it float in your tank too to help colonize the tank with nitrifying bacteria.

Last thing, I would be wary of adding fertilizers to a tank with your new crystal red shrimp. I've had poor experiences with dosing fertilizers with them in it.

-John N.


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## dhavoc (Mar 17, 2006)

same here with the ferts, my crs went nuts. you indicated mosses and java ferns which dont require much in the way of ferts anyway. i have a low light tank with only flourite/gravel, no ferts or co2 and they grow great. unless your adding a ton of shrimp, with a 30g you wont have much of a bioload either. i also agree with ianiwane, go with a canister filter, you need to keep the water very clean for these guys. good luck, they are kind of addicting once you start to get them to breed.


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

ianiwane said:


> You need more filtration. One sponge filter rated to 40 gallons will not do the job. I had a sponge filter rated to 40 gallons on my 10 gallon crystal shrimp tank and it barely did the job (I recently put a canister filter on it). For that size of tank with crystals I would get a canister and cover the intake with a sponge.


Really? I have 50 CRS's in a 10 gallon right now with an Azoo sponge filter rated for a 10 and no deaths. They are all active and eating.


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

dhavoc said:


> same here with the ferts, my crs went nuts. you indicated mosses and java ferns which dont require much in the way of ferts anyway. i have a low light tank with only flourite/gravel, no ferts or co2 and they grow great. unless your adding a ton of shrimp, with a 30g you wont have much of a bioload either. i also agree with ianiwane, go with a canister filter, you need to keep the water very clean for these guys. good luck, they are kind of addicting once you start to get them to breed.


Let's say I stop dosing ferts and add 5 shrimp a week until they are all in there. For very clean water, besides water changes, do you recommend using activated carbon as well?

Got any good suggestions for a canister for a 30 gallon? I'm all about the sponge on the intake. I have Magnum 350's on my planted 75's, but I've never seen a sponge accessory for the intake at any shops.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

It won't hurt to use carbon to ensure good water quality, but it's not exactly necessary, especially since the large tank is dedicated solely to shrimp whom don't produce that much waste. Water changes and your plant selection will be adequate enough to keep things clean.

For a 30 gallon, a Eheim 2213, or a XP1 would be fine suited for this tank. Calm current throughout the tank. Unless the sponge is very dense, I suggest using a fine mesh attached with a rubber band over the intake. My shrimps made it into the canister despite having a sponge over it.

-John N.


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## ianiwane (May 6, 2005)

I use the hagen elite sponge over the intake in my tank. It was too small for me so I cut the inside of the sponge to fit the intake over it. Shrimp cannot get through this sponge it is pretty dense. Also I am gonna try to put some purigen in my canister. It works a lot better than carbon.


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

Thanks for the recommendations both of you.

Can you tell me more about purigen, please?


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## ianiwane (May 6, 2005)

it does the same thing as carbon but better. Plus it is rechargeable. Polishes water, makes it crystal clear.


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

ianiwane said:


> it does the same thing as carbon but better. Plus it is rechargeable. Polishes water, makes it crystal clear.


If I go with an Eheim 2213 or XP1, how much Purigen would I need? How do I recharge the Purigen? How many times can I recharge it?

Anybody know the best online deals for Eheim 2213's and XP1's?


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## ianiwane (May 6, 2005)

Seachem says you will need only 100 ml for 100 gallon for 6 months. But you can't really use too much purigen. You recharge by bleaching, then rinsing and adding prime. Then balancing the pH with acid buffer. I have also heard of people either using distilled vinager or just rinsing a lot to balance the pH. I don't think there is a limit to the times you can recharge. You recharge it when the purigen turn brown in color.


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

OK, I'm starting to follow you. Let's say I use 100ml to make the math easy. Talk quantities of bleach, Prime, & vinegar to me. Straight bleach or bleach water? For the Prime, I'm trying to figure out the quantity to order. How about a detailed explanation of the recharging process?

Does Purigen work so well that I can slack off on water changes?


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## dhavoc (Mar 17, 2006)

"Does Purigen work so well that I can slack off on water changes?"
no, it does not, it polishes the water kinda like diatom powder, but there is not substitute for water changes. with CRS you basically have a high maintenance pet. and come on, with the price you pay for high grade ones, are you going to take a chance? if the water goes south, they die really easily. i use it myself but i dont have the instructions on recharging with me.


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

Point made on the water changes, but can somebody please share more info on recharging the Purigen? Has anybody actually done this? I'm new to this concept. Perhaps when my order arrives this week, there will be some recharging instructions that I can share.


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## Felf808 (Mar 21, 2006)

"Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metalic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of ChlorGuard™, Prime™, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 1 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer™, Neutral Regulator™, or Acid Buffer™). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen™ is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen™ and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit."

That was taken directly from the seachem website. I've used purigen for about a year now and it works well, just make sure there aren't any small holes in the special mesh bag because you'll open up your filter one day and find that none of your precious purigen is left to rejuvenate #-o


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## Rob Tetrazona (Jun 21, 2005)

Thank you very much. That was quite helpful.


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