# Re-Purposing Reef Tank -> Planted South American Biotype



## PlantedReef (Mar 8, 2007)

Hello, and Help.

After a circuit breaker tripped on the chiller and killed off my corals traveling back home for christmas (cooked 'em), I'm ending 20 years of reefing. (Some of those corals were older than my high school junior son.) I'm hoping that a planted tank will be a bit simpler (single dad), but know enough I have a lot to learn. 

Anyway, I have equipment up the yang. Some needs to be pulled (a lot of flow, skimmers, and perhaps lights.)

I'm going for a South American planted biotype.

Help me decide on lighting please.

Have:
Main Tank (180)
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(4) 160W 72" VHO,
(2) 250W HQI (M80) MH (left and right ends) 
(1) 400W MH (Center), 
(1) 250W MH on sump w/18x18" growing area.


I'm thinking:

Main Tank
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- Run 10-12hr alternating: (5-6hr) VHO URI AquaSuns and (5-6hr) Center 400w MH w/a 400W 6500K Iwasaki

- Not use the 250 HQI, yet, due to having 20K Radiums

Sump
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10-12 Hr of 250 Iwasaki MH opposite the main tank.


I have an Aquacontroller and 1/2hp chiller on the tank from the reef setup.

Too much light? 

I've read enough to take the following steps:

- Eliminate skimmer
- Swap Iwaki 100 RLT for Iwaki 70 RLT for return. Flow reduced thru chiller line in garage.
- Add glass tops tank/sump to reduce gas exchange
- Flow in overflows uses dursos to eliminate noise/splashing
- Returns lower in water 
- Re-purposing Calcium Reactor as CO2 reactor. Will eventually have Aquacontroller manage this via PH.
- 60%Flourite/40% Fine, neutral, gravel substrate

Fish will be added slowly, later. 

Conversion is gonna be Friday & Saturday. Making RO water to start now.

Is this a viable plan? Please advise.


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## DonaldmBoyer (Aug 18, 2005)

I wouldn't worry about the glass tops....as long as you don't have too much splashing coming from the top from your filters (which you won't), you shouldn't have anything to worry about as far as losing CO2. Plus, the glass is just going to decrease some of the light intensity which you don't want if you are growing any substrate-covering or light-loving plants. Good God you have a lot of light! 

You won't need the chiller....as long as your lights are above the water. Amazonia biotype temperature usually runs right around 78F.

Substrate should be fine, though I wouldn't mix the two...layer the sand on top of the Flourite.

Set up your hard scape, and let us know what you come up with. Then, you can ask about the plants.


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## PlantedReef (Mar 8, 2007)

Donald,

Thanks for your time. Per your reply:

- I'm hoping the glass tops will help me get/keep the water in a 6.8-7.0 PH range. I anticipate this to be an issue with anticipated flow and surface area between the tank and sump. The overflows don't splash, and run 1-2" below tank level, at least now @2000GPH flowing thru them. Might be lower running at 1200-ish when replumbed with the smaller pump going thru the chiller (in another room, the garage). Never tried to keep CO2 in, always was looking for O2 in the reef. Maybe it's not as hard as I think. 

- Chiller: I figure I'll leave it on for hot days in the summer with the windows open, and due to the MH. They're in a canopy with fans, but they generate a LOT of heat. (I used to run 3-400W MH and 4-160W VHO at one time, and the chiller was on a lot.) With just the VHO or 1 400W 'saki, it'll be on less. 78...hmmm I used to run 80-ish. Dunno how that will work out, but less electricity and heat will be good.

- I'd appreciate any help with plants later.

- Color spectrum wise, are URI-Aquasuns or Iwasaki 6500K MH appropriate?

Again, thanks for your time and help.


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## DonaldmBoyer (Aug 18, 2005)

Those lights would be perfectly fine. Also, CO2 injection is not as hard as you think. Try running the CO2 from your cylinder directly into your pump (drill a hole for the CO2 line). This way, the CO2 gas bubbles will "break up" into very tiny CO2 microbubbles which is the best way for the plants to use it.


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## Narhay (Mar 3, 2007)

I would think that 3 x 250 MHs on the main tank would be sufficient...

The Kelvin temperature is really up to you. Some say that 6500-6700K is the most natural for growing plants, but it is quite yellow. Actinics don't do much of anything for plants. Many people mix 6700K with 10 000K, some like a higher and some like a lower temperature colour.

A 400 watt light might grow you some really impressive algae if things aren't balanced properly. 

You might be able to forego the chiller because the temperature for many South American fish is in the 80s...

Narhay.


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