# Need plumbing help: Ocean Clear & external pump



## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

I'm in new territory with a 110XH (48x18x30"h) that I want to filter with an OC 340 and external pump, I could use some help. I'm a pool guy and I'm trying to keep things simple and efficient, but this isn't a pool and I want to be sure I'm not overlooking or oversimplifying anything. My specialties don't really include plumbing, anyway.

The plumbing will consist of a simple hang-over closed loop, the pump then filter and back to tank, nothing else inline. No heater, no reactor/injectors (low tech), no UVS etc. I plan to use numerous ball valves (black/white circles in diagram) and threaded unions (grey rectangles) to isolate components for easy cleaning and disconnect. I want high flow in this tank, so much as to require adjustment down on a ball valve, I don't want to undercut it and wish I had more flow after the fact. This will be a planted tank, not a reef, so I don't want to shoot too high either. All the external pump info I'm reading is pretty confusing. Height from floor to the top of the tank will be approx 6'.

Questions:

1. How many GPH would you choose to pump this setup considering I want substantial current in the tank?
2. Ocean Clear suggests a pump on the higher end of their suggested range for an OC340 (500-1600gph), what are the downfalls of not doing this?
3. The OC340 has 3/4" connections as do most of the pumps I've looked at, should I maintain 3/4" plumbing throughout?
4. Will PVC flex (where pictured) cause any problems?
5. Do you see anything missing, redundant or wrong in this diagram? Thanks in advance - J

Edit: diagram is updated. The black triangle is a check valve


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

One very practical thing to do would be to split the outflow in 2. Put them in oposing corners of the tank. That greatly improves the flow.

If the flow is too much you can make holes in the outflow spouts. That way the water will flow in different directions.

For a tank this size 600 gph (actual, in tank flow, not pump rating) should be enough IF the tank is full of plants. Plants block water flow like you'd never expect. If the tank is rather bare then 300 would be fine.

--Nikolay


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## helgymatt (Sep 12, 2007)

You may want to consider Nu-clear filters. They have larger "in" and "outs" if you want lines larger than 3/4". Its always a good idea to have a larger line on the inlet to the pump. For example if the inlet on the pump is 3/4" it never hurts to have the line into that larger. My iwaki has 3/4" inlet and I wish I would have had a 1" line into it rather than 3/4"

Your plumb looks good. Avoid any 90 degree elbows if you can. You should be able to use flex from your filter to pump too. Also, what is the purpose of the check valve? I don't think that is really necessary. I have a 75 gallon with the OC and Iwaki WMD-40 RLT. It does about 7-800 per hour. I wouldn't want anything less. See my signature for my system. Something even a little bigger (1000 gph) may be better for you. You will never regret having a little more flow - especially when your tank fills up. Although I like my iwaki, it is a little loud and uses a LOT of electricity. But most pumps of this size will. I have heard the Pan-world pumps are also good. Be SURE to get a high pressure pump! Tom Barr has an iwaki just like mine for sale - Barrreport.com See his post in this thread about it - http://www.barrreport.com/general-p...l-plumbing-flow-question.html?highlight=iwaki

Thats all I can think of for now


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## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

Thanks to both of you for the help.

Hey Matt, funny you mentioned Nuclear and that post by Tom, because I just pulled his Ocean Clear 325 out of a UPS box. 

The check valve was basically added as a safe guard incase the equipment leaks, wasn't sure if it was needed, especially since I can't add one to the intake.

I've simplified the plumb to omit the two unions and the ball valve at the top of the hoses, so the risers and hoses would be glued together, I'm still wrestling in my head over keeping them union'd though. It was advised to me that they would increase the chances of a leak. When I spoke to Tom about the OC, he talked me into using flex all over, so that lower 90 will also be omitted as you suggested, Matt. Might also add another outlet as Nikolay suggested, will probably try both when I get everything running and see how it goes.

I found the killer head loss calc thing at reefs.org. Best I can tell is I'll have around 12 maybe 15' head, and a pump around 1000gph, or maybe around 7-800 with a high max head around 20', will get the tank turning about 6 or 7 times an hour. I found a great deal on a slightly used Gen-X pcx40, and an ok deal on a brand new Pan World 100px. Somewhere, a Gen-X owner stated the noise wasn't particularity loud even though it's louder than some other options like the blueline/panworld etc, but apparently these GenX's have the same noise issue as Iwaki...

Matt, would you be able to compare your Iwaki's noise level to anything common , is it simply loud compared to other brands but still quiet enough to drown out and be forgotten? I'm all about grabbing a deal if it's something I can live with, but the tank will be dead center living room, right near the couch.


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## helgymatt (Sep 12, 2007)

The iwaki sits in my stand about 3 ft behind my couch. LOL. It isn't so bad. I put some weatherstrip on my doors of my stand and that helped a lot. I could probably soundproof it much more, but I feel it isn't so bad. I also put some of that no-slip rug stuff folded up underneath the pump so it doesn't vibrate. Its like a subtle hum, almost like a furnace or fan is running??? With the TV on, I don't notice it at all. Thats about as good as I can describe it. 

Unions are always good...make life much easier. Just decide where you need them the most. This is an easy plumb job, you'll do fine! 

Matt


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## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

Awesome, thanks Matt. I'm always watching TV when I'm in the room so that's good to hear.


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## Raul-7 (Feb 4, 2004)

helgymatt said:


> You may want to consider Nu-clear filters. They have larger "in" and "outs" if you want lines larger than 3/4". Its always a good idea to have a larger line on the inlet to the pump. For example if the inlet on the pump is 3/4" it never hurts to have the line into that larger. My iwaki has 3/4" inlet and I wish I would have had a 1" line into it rather than 3/4"


Actually the Ocean Clears have 1" input/output stock and they include reducer barb fittings to make it 3/4".


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## helgymatt (Sep 12, 2007)

Raul-7 said:


> Actually the Ocean Clears have 1" input/output stock and they include reducer barb fittings to make it 3/4".


Not the ocean clear I have.....

http://www.marineandreef.com/Ocean_Clear_Canister_Ocean_Clear_Filter_317_318_319_325_s/230.htm

They have 3/4" FNPT on the unit and they provide a 1" adapter.


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## rj2579 (Oct 2, 2009)

Hello, someone please help me. I just received my OC 340. Seems easy enough, but I can't seem to get the lid to seal. After about 5 minutes it start dripping. PLus thanks for the diagram below. I knew I had the intake and out correct. My friend said the intake was on the bottom and return on the top. Anyone have ideas of what i'm doing wrong to seal this filter? Ring seems fine, no cracking or tears. Please help Thanks RJ


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## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

I had some issues too, apparently it's common with OC's. Mine was used and I had to get a replacement body, used the same lid. There's a new _and_ old style O-ring, so I assumed I had an old lid on a new body. I purchased one new and one old style ring and tried them both, not sure which one is which now, but the one that is too fat for the lid to set around works now. My advice, by and old style and a new style O ring, they're about $4 a piece, try both. Rub vegetable oil on the O-ring and the lid's threads. Use a hammer to tap the lid closed an extra inch or so farther than you can crank it by hand, also open the relief valve on the lid as you tap it, to avoid pressure in the filter keeping the lid from closing as far as it can. That seemed to help a lot for me.


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## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

Funny thing, I just finished planting my tank tonight and fired the filter for the first time since initial setup. I went to check on it after replying to you and saw the lid dripping again. :wacko:

I tapped it closed another two inches with a hammer and it seems fine now. So I guess my suggestion is try tapping before buying new o-rings. I'm surprised, but it goes pretty far without cracking the housing, just don't break anything, and don't blame me if you do!  

I can see it now, I bet I'll be replacing this filter in the future just because it's a PITA. I wonder if the Nu Clears have this problem, I think they use a compression band to secure the top, rather than a threaded lid.


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