# Inconsistent bps... GAH someone help pls..



## dr0ck (Aug 3, 2011)

Hi all,

I am new to the planted tank scene so maybe someone can help me with a co2 issue I've been having.

I picked up a Waterplant disposable CO2 system from my LFS and now have issues with the bps. I turn it in on in the morning, adjust the flow to a few bps, about half an hour later.. It slows to a bubble per couple minutes so I have to adjust again.. This went on for days.. And it got old lol!

The system came with the regulator and co2 bottle, tubing and bubble counter/diffuser combo. It didn't come with a check valve so I ordered one and a new bubble counter.. Hopefully that comes in soon. So basically it's the regulator about a foot of tube and the bubble counter/diffuser. Anyone have any advice to help a newbie get some consistent bps? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

dr0ck


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

I am not familiar with this system. Is it a yeast based system? If so, you will find it nearly impossible to adjust a flow rate, as the CO2 is being produced by living organisms via a chemical reaction. Sounds like you've spent a fair amount of money on this. If I may ask, did you consider going with pressurized? It's so much easier.


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

I think he's talking about this.










Pat


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## OVT (Aug 26, 2010)

I have similar (identical?) set-up from Fluval. In short, you cannot really control bps with it and you will be spending $$ on refills. I would not put anymore money into it then you already have.


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## JustLikeAPill (Oct 9, 2006)

If you don't want to get a new system, then get an inline needle valve like a fabco and stuck it between your old needle valve (open it up all the way) and the bubble counter.


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## dr0ck (Aug 3, 2011)

Hi all thanks for the advice. I am planning on getting a better system in the near future but this is what I have to work with right now. If I get a needle valve, do I have to get pressure resistant tube to put between the reg and new needle valve? so: regulator --> pressure resistant tube --> needle valve --> silicon tube --> bubble counter, check valve, diffuser?


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## JustLikeAPill (Oct 9, 2006)

If you want. I just used regular tubing. I have since switched the the ADA advance system (now that one has a good needle valve for a miniature system!)


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## Morgan (Jun 28, 2011)

I use 2 co2 systems, one of which is the Fluval 88...like yours. I use it on my 10gallon cube for CRS (shrimp). These regulators work best if you roll way past the level u want, then slowly shut/slow down the bubble count. Leave it wide open till bubbles leave difuser, then roll it back. Mine used to be more erratic when I just turned it on and played the "back and forth game. Try it. Eventually, you'll pick up a large tank/regulator .


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

That sure sounds like an aggravating system.

You can get a Fabco NV-55 needle valve like JustLikeAPill suggested and be sure to get the #10-32 barb fittings too. You will need 2 of these fittings. They come in brass or plastic (nylon).

I like to run a check valve before and after my bubble counter. This keeps aquarium water out of the bubble counter and bubble counter liquid out of the needle valve and solenoid.

Something like this: regulator's stock needle valve --> tubing --> NV-55 needle valve --> tubing --> check valve --> tubing --> bubble counter --> tubing --> check valve --> tubing --> diffuser

Another good valve that you can sometimes find on ebay is Swagelok's low pressure, low flow metering valve. Don't get the low pressure, medium flow metering valve for your small aquarium. This medium flow valve flows too much and it has very little control in the fine settings that you would need. Their low flow valve works really well. This valve comes in chrome mist plated brass or stainless steel. Do not get any of the Swagelok needle valves; only the metering valves. Swagelok has several different types of tubing fittings for this metering valve.


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