# Possible cause for BBA?



## Marauder (Apr 17, 2006)

I've got black brush algea (BBA) in my tank. It's the very short, usually black stuff, though I've seen it get purple-ish. It only appears on my driftwood, and slow growers like my Java Lace Fern.

Basically, I'm still kind of a noob. I've been loosely following Tom Barrs "EI" method for about 8 months now. The plant load changes quite a bit so I mainly "eye ball" things with an educated guess at actual nutrient up-take. It's been working great so far!

My Ferts are; 

KNO3 (powdered, "green house grade")
KH2P04 (powdered, "green house grade")
K2S04 (powdered, "green house grade")
CSM+B 

I keep my N at 10-15ppm, the P at 1/15th to 1/10th of N. (the "Redfeild ratio"). The only test I use is a Hagen N03 kit, usually weekly, and then I dose P to 1/15th of N.

The mistakes here, that I just noticed, are:

1. Not dosing Ca.
2. Not dosing Mg.
3. Not supplimenting Fe.

Other than the BBA, I have no other algea in my tank. My plants are still mainly fast growers. I really can't see any nutrient defficiencys (noobie again?).

Could this explain my BBA? Am I on the right track? Please feel free to tell me where I might be wrong. I'd like to add a driftwood center peice, but not if it's going to get coated in BBA!

Thanks!


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## Cichlid Freq (Jun 18, 2006)

Do you dose CO2 at all? More parameters would help; tank size, lighting, temp, and any water parameters you can provide..


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## Marauder (Apr 17, 2006)

You posted before I could edit my post! LOl. 

It's a 75 gallon tank, pressurised C02 (on 12/off 12), 3WPG (110 CF and 96 NOF). My KH=13, and GH=11. Ph=7 (tap is 8 ). 50% water change weekly. Temp is 78. NitrIte=0.

I know increasing C02 is one step in eliminating BBA, and I have done so. It's actually over 40ppm. Adding shrimp isn't option due to my live stock.

One way that's mentioned to get rid of BBA is "getting nutrients in line", and hopefull that's all I need to do. At least, that's my current theory.

Thanks!


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## Cichlid Freq (Jun 18, 2006)

Sorry just happened to be reading when you posted.. LOL.. The only thing that jumps right out at me is that you said that the plant load changes quite a bit. This will make it hard to establish a balance in the tank between what you are dosing and what the uptake is in the tank. For now I would crank up the CO2 as far as you can before your fish start showing signs of distress, that should slow it down.


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## Marauder (Apr 17, 2006)

I did have a minor problem with nitrAtes a while back. I'd changed brands of frozen Krill and the new stuff had lots of little chunks of eyeballs and legs that my Hujetas wouldn't catch. It was impossible to net out. Hence, an increase in waste and therefore nitrAte.

Today I carefully pick out the large chunks of Krill for my Hujetas, and nitrAte levels have remained steady and (most importantly for "EI") very predictable.

The plant load does change some. I give plants to friend, stores, etc. I'd be surprised if that was the cause though. I'll deffinately keep my eye on it though.

And like a true noobie, I've probably been a little "lean" on Phosphates.15-1-20 is where I've tried to stay. I see some plants in the "plant finder" recomend 5-2-20. My brain screams; "Hair algea!" when I read that. I'll give it a shot.

At any rate, I think getting Ca, Mg, and Fe into my tank can only help. Maybe that's the "balance" that'll rid me off this rotton BBA.


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## czado (May 26, 2005)

CSM+B has Fe. It is 6.53% Fe by mass, and is a great trace/Fe source.

GH is made up of Mg and Ca, and with 11dGH, you _probably_ have enough of both that you don't need to worry about them.

EI says if you've got the nutrients covered, the problem must be CO2. Collective experience says BBA is caused by low-fluctuating CO2. If it is pressurized and the fish aren't gasping, crank it up a little.

If its DIY CO2, try staggering two bottles (start them a week apart, change alternating bottles weekly), and adding a third or using a richer mix/larger bottles if necessary. With DIY CO2, care more about the minimum output than the average output in regards to targets.

HTH

(edit: If you disagree, posting your dosing schedule will help troubleshoot.)


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I suggest that you forget about the "Redfield ratio". Not to be too blunt about it, but it isn't useful for us. You need to dose more phosphates. Also, if you want to use EI, you don't need to do any measuring of nitrates or phosphates. Just dose about 20 ppm of nitrate a week and 2 ppm or so of phosphate a week, all split into three doses to spread out the addition of ferts. If you have too little phosphate the plants won't be able to use the nitrates you are dosing.

If you really do want to use the "Redfield Ratio", use it as the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus, not nitrate to phosphate. But, you are getting far afield of the IE method when you over-engineer it that way.

I agree with you that increasing your CO2 is probably a good idea. Most of us, in my opinion, don't have as much CO2 in the water as we think we have, and many of us have too little.


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## Marauder (Apr 17, 2006)

czado said:


> CSM+B has Fe. It is 6.53% Fe by mass, and is a great trace/Fe source.
> 
> GH is made up of Mg and Ca, and with 11dGH, you _probably_ have enough of both that you don't need to worry about them.
> 
> EI says if you've got the nutrients covered, the problem must be CO2. Collective experience says BBA is caused by low-fluctuating CO2. If it is pressurized and the fish aren't gasping, crank it up a little.


Thanks! You just jogged my memory as to why I wasn't originally adding Mg and Ca in first place. That also explains why I haven't been able to detect any defficiencys in my plants.

My C02 regulator has a solenoid that allows it to come on and off with lights (no moniter/no controller). I'll set it for 24 opperation and see if that helps.

And the "Redfeild ratio" seemed really logical 8 months ago when I first dove into the subject of fertilizers. The terms _Nitrate/Nitrogen _and _Phosphate/ Phosphorus _probably got interchanged after literally hours and hours of bleary eyed internet study on the subject. Lol.

Thanks again everyone! This is an absolutely terrific site!


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