# Algae in Beta tank



## ColdServings (Oct 8, 2007)

I've got Algae growing in my Betta tank. Just checked Nitrates (before weekly water change) and they're at zero.

Pic attached.

I've been leaving the tank light off the last few days. So far, that's been my only attempt to control it.


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

In a planted tank you want nitrates, the plants use it to grow. Keeping the N03 at 10ppm & P04 at 1ppm is a good balance. So start dosing the tank with a good micro & macro nutrient. Seachem makes a good line... http://www.seachem.com/products/planted.html

Don't turn off your lights completely, just reduce the amount of daily light, 8-10 hours daily is enough.

Check this link out for different types of algae and cures...
http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm

Here is a good read on nutrients...
http://www.aquariaplants.com/nutrientsfertilizers.htm


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## JustOneMore21 (Mar 19, 2007)

You've got yourself some Cyanobacteria, which isn't really an algae (hence the name). Some people call it Blue-Green algae. And the cause of that is your lack of nitrates.

Remove all of it that you can. If you have a fair amount of plants in the tank, you need to dose some nitrates. If you can get Flourish Nitrogen, that will work.

I had this in a Betta tank once and I never tried a blackout. I went straight for the antibiotics and used Maracyn. That wiped it out in about 4-5 days. You'll need to remove it as it dies, because it could make the Betta sick. Do a big water change after you finish using the Maracyn and start dosing some nitrates.


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## ColdServings (Oct 8, 2007)

The problem with Antibiotics is they'll also take out the bio filter. Any suggestions on minimizing stress for the poor Betta? The only thing I could come up with is a rather complex series of steps:

- Remove the filter cartridge (needed to keep the carbon from removing the medication anyway).
- Store the cartridge in tank water with a bit of ammonia to keep the bacteria "live."
- Optional: Move Sam to a bucket with airstone and use Amquel Plus and daily large water changes to keep ammonia and nitrites down (unfortunately, Sam will be getting rather chilly during this phase, which is an argument for leaving him in the tank.)
- Dose the tank with the antibiotic
- If I leave Sam in the tank, use Amquel Plus to keep the ammonia et al down during and shortly after the dosing period (the antibiotic treatment will dictate what water changes are possible)
- At the end of the antibiotic cycle, use a _fresh_ filter cartridge to remove the antibiotic.
- Replace the old filter cartridge which, hopefully, has enough beneficial bacteria remaining to quickly restore the bio filter.


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## Homer_Simpson (Apr 2, 2007)

ColdServings said:


> The problem with Antibiotics is they'll also take out the bio filter...


This is simply not true. I have used erythromycin before and meticulously tested my water parameters. A sharp spike 1-2 or even more days after using erythromycin would indicate that the bio-filter was adversly effected. Ammonia and nitrites tested 0 before, during, and after treatment.

You may want to check out this useful link(posted below) to a forum where this same question is raised and discussed at length. This is a quote from that discussion. Also, you may want to make sure that you are dealing with Blue Green Algae and not Green Dust Algae. From the picture that you posted, it appears more like Green Dust Algae and if that is the case it will have to run its life cycle and will disappear on its own without any intervention on your part.

Source:http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/aquatic-plants/39621-bga-plz-advise-2.html

"RAM-NEGATIVE AND GRAM-POSITIVE BACTERIA.

Bacteria can be divided into two groups, either Gram-
negative (G-) or Gram-positive (G+). This classification is
based on if the bacteria stains (+) or not (-) in a special
staining technique - the Gram staining (invented by Christian
Gram). Positive or negative staining reaction reflects a
fundamental difference in the structure of the cell wall of
the bacteria.
ERYTHROMYCIN IS AN ANTIBIOTIC.
Erythromycin is more efficient towards G(+) bacteria
than G(-). It is one of the safest antibiotics, meaning that
it does not affect plants, fish or animals. Blue-green
bacteria belongs to the G(-) bacteria but it is a special case
with respect to sensitivity to antibiotics (i'm on thin ice
here, but I think I am correct). They are more sensitive to
erythromycin than other G(-) bacteria. Fortunately, the
bacteria important for the nitrogen cycle (your biofilter) are
of the G(-) type and are much less sensitive to erythromycin
than the blue-green bacteria. So your biological filter is
"fairly" safe.
The reason that some tanks experience an ammonia peak
after treatment with erythromycin is (probably) not because
the biological filter is non-functional. It is more likely
that it is because of the high content of protein released
from the dead blue-green bacteria which is broken down to
ammonia and/or nitrite by the "good" nitrifying bacteria in
your biofilter. This boost of protein to be broken down upsets
the finely tuned balance of different bacteria in your filter.
(Actually, if you killed of all bacteria in your tank and
filter, you would never get ammonia).
This quote was written by Tony Clementz, and can be found on The Krib.

In addition to this, you will find that as long as water changes are kept up to remove the dead stuff, along with the plants absorbing any leftover nutrients, you will notice any biofilter issues."


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