# Nutrient deficiencies



## Ekrindul (Jul 3, 2010)

I found a thread on TPT forum I think is well worth reading regarding nutrient deficiencies.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/plants/126602-deficiency-photos-yes-ive-been-torturing.html

Notice, in particular, when algae is seen in the experiments.


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## NeonFlux (May 15, 2008)

Interesting. Thanks for the link.


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

I am pretty sure that the Blyxa sending out the flower was fortuitous. It was going to do that anyway. Low K did not cause it to develop a flower bud. The holes in the Hygrophila older leaves fit the classic description of potassium deficiency.


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## Ekrindul (Jul 3, 2010)

HeyPK said:


> I am pretty sure that the Blyxa sending out the flower was fortuitous. It was going to do that anyway. Low K did not cause it to develop a flower bud. The holes in the Hygrophila older leaves fit the classic description of potassium deficiency.


Yeah, it struck me as a bit of a reckless inference, also. Not saying there might not be some truth to it, but I wouldn't have claimed it was so without reproducing it several times.


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## goldfishes (Nov 26, 2008)

Could very well have been fortuitous, more likely the case. I have been able to stress blyxa several times into flowering by limiting light, potassium and nitrates. However, the roots also start to become brittle and the stem starts to melt as well. I just thought it was a neat observation. Not trying to be reckless at all. My apologies that it's being viewed as such. My personal experiments were never intended to be held with much regard to others. I'm just trying to understand why the EI method has never worked for me and to start from scratch and learn the basics is the only way I know how to figure out my issues.


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## Ekrindul (Jul 3, 2010)

goldfishes said:


> Could very well have been fortuitous, more likely the case. I have been able to stress blyxa several times into flowering by limiting light, potassium and nitrates. However, the roots also start to become brittle and the stem starts to melt as well. I just thought it was a neat observation. Not trying to be reckless at all. My apologies that it's being viewed as such. My personal experiments were never intended to be held with much regard to others. I'm just trying to understand why the EI method has never worked for me and to start from scratch and learn the basics is the only way I know how to figure out my issues.


It's not an unreasonable hypothesis. It is commonly reported, and I've seen it also, that java fern will produce daughter plants when the environment isn't to its liking.

I think what you are doing in your thread in dispelling some popular myths more than makes up for one aside.


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## goldfishes (Nov 26, 2008)

Didn't want you all to think I was intentionally trying to mislead or infer a direct cause and effect relationship. I'll be the first to tell you that I am not the brightest bulb in the planted tank hobby. I do this kind of stuff out of boredom and frustration mostly.


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## Ekrindul (Jul 3, 2010)

BTW, on the light issue in your last post on TPT: I also use T5HO on a 55 gallon about 3 inches from the water surface (I only use a single bulb, however), and I think that's too much honestly. But if your light seems dim, you might try lowering it and removing a bulb to cut the light intensity. It might increase the spread a bit without really increasing the PAR levels much at all. It might look brighter in the tank to your eye that way.


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## goldfishes (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks. I tried removing a bulb to go down to 3 once but the ballast wouldn't light up the other bulb. Kind of reminds me of the old Christmas lights where if one bulb goes out, they all do. I'm in the process of doing a new canopy with new reflectors, so I am hoping that I can have more flexibility. This light was the worst decision I ever made. You know, the too much light syndrome. [smilie=h:


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## Dielectric (Oct 7, 2008)

Not too many people try to understand why something happens the way it does. So i think goldfishes deserves credit for trying things for herself & documenting it rather than just following the leader.


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## Ekrindul (Jul 3, 2010)

goldfishes said:


> Thanks. I tried removing a bulb to go down to 3 once but the ballast wouldn't light up the other bulb. Kind of reminds me of the old Christmas lights where if one bulb goes out, they all do. I'm in the process of doing a new canopy with new reflectors, so I am hoping that I can have more flexibility. This light was the worst decision I ever made. You know, the too much light syndrome. [smilie=h:[/QUOTE]
> 
> Yup. And the manufacturers aren't helping us much either. It's gotten to be very difficult to find lighting that has a good spread lengthwise for a tank that isn't much too intense.


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## fishyjoe24 (May 18, 2010)

high output isn't even needed. I have 2 bulbs t5 no 14 w each over my 25 gallon, and get mediu to medium high lighting, my rotala rounfilia stays pink...over a 20 gallon it was to muc lighting.

I thik people need to start looking at par more and more...


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## Dielectric (Oct 7, 2008)

fishyjoe24 said:


> high output isn't even needed. I have 2 bulbs t5 no 14 w each over my 25 gallon, and get mediu to medium high lighting, my rotala rounfilia stays pink...over a 20 gallon it was to muc lighting.
> 
> I thik people need to start looking at par more and more...


i agree with you joe, i was suprised at how low i could run my lighting and still get ok growth.


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## digital_gods (Apr 23, 2010)

Here is a really good flow chart to help anyone who is more visual to really understand. This flow chart is from Inforgraphics.


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