# DIY Aquarium Stand/Cabinet



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The last time I did maintenance on my tank I noticed that my cabinet is slowly distorting! And, I spilled water on it - it is made of particle board. Then I noticed that the plastic covering is coming off of part of the cabinet. Being someone who loves to make things, this was the signal to crank up another DIY project.

My goal is to replicate, as near as possible, my particle board cabinet with a wooden cabinet, which will not slowly distort until some day it fails completely. Here is the cabinet to be replicated:









I decided to make this out of oak, since that is what the plastic covering on the particle board is supposed to look like. The first problem is to make the heavily rounded corner pieces at the front edges. These will be made from a piece of 1 X 2 and 1 X 3 oak, glued together to make a 1 1/2 X 3 rabbited piece, and the corner will be rounded with a 1/2" radius corner radiusing bit with a router. Here is the glue-up:









And, after radiusing the corner with a router:









Next will be the top.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

For the top, first I measured the existing top, using a length of solder to duplicate the curve at the front. I unrolled the solder, held it carefully against the front, hand bent it gradually, until it fit the curve. Then carefully transferred that to a piece of thin cardboard, on which I had drawn a rectangle the matched the maximum width and depth of the top.

I want solid oak where it is visible, so I used 1 X 2 and 1 X 4 oak as edging on a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood. The oak is attached with biscuits, to keep it aligned when I clamped it, but that wasn't really necessary, just easier. Here it is clamped up: I glued the end pieces of 1 X 2 first, then trimmed the front edge with a skilsaw and glued on the front 1 X 4.









The top is much thicker than 3/4" so I glued on a second layer of 1 X 4 on the bottom of the first layer of oak - 1 X 4 on the ends too, because the plywood is thinner than the oak, and I need this to rest on top of the cabinet sides, so I need a flat surface to do that. Here is that glue up, drying as I type:









Next will be using a jig saw to cut the curved profile on the top, and a belt sander to sand it smooth.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I'm through working on this for one day. I'm too old to work 8 hours a day anymore! But, enough excuses: Here is the cardboard pattern on the blank top:









And, the top after using a jigsaw, with an extra long blade to cut it along the pattern lines:










I finished belt sanding the profile, but ripped the sanding belt working on the top surface. More tomorrow.


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## 180gz71 (Apr 13, 2007)

Good progress.


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## BigRed27 (Mar 11, 2004)

Keep on trucking. Looking forward to your progress, I really need to build a nice hood with hinges. So hopefully as this project progresses I will become inspired.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

BigRed27 said:


> Keep on trucking. Looking forward to your progress, I really need to build a nice hood with hinges. So hopefully as this project progresses I will become inspired.


Here is the matching hood I made last summer: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/do-yourself-aquarium-projects/28612-hoppys-diy-hood.html


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I remember being flabbergasted when I saw that completed hood. rayer: I'm sure this stand will be as near perfection as can be. Looking forward to see the stand develop into another spectacular work of art in itself.

Oh Hop, you've been holding out on us. Great looking tank!

-John N.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

John, all tanks look good if you take the photo from far enough away! I am over due on wiping down the glass again. When I "install" the new stand I will, of course, have to completely redo the tank. It would be too heavy to move if I don't remove almost all of the substrate. So, I am thinking about what to do with it next. One idea is to use a soil/soilmaster mixture as a substrate, with just the SM in the top layer. That should allow me to have bigger substrate gradients in the tank.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Progress report: I finished making the base for the stand today, but then a semi-disaster struck. I used a 1/4" round over bit on the upper and lower corners, but accidentally picked up a bit with a small bearing, so it cuts a corner with a step at each end. More sanding needed. Then I changed to a true corner bit and on the top of the stand it grabbed the wood grain and pried off a big sliver of wood. Now, I need to patch that area. Half of woodworking for me is fixing the mistakes! Anyway, I'm still moving forwards.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The top and bottom are finished now:









And the "feet" for the bottom are glued on - no need for screws, with plenty of gluing area and the joint only being in compression:









Tomorrow, I will buy the oak plywood for the sides and doors and start on them.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I decided I need more support at the bottom of the cabinet:








I need to add the "filler block" between the inner half of the "feet" and the bottom plywood piece, to increase the area carrying the weight of the cabinet and tank. Tomorrow I will cut strips of plywood just wide enough to filll that gap and glue them in.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The base is done! Now it has "feet" all around the base:









For the sides, I'm using 3/4 oak veneered plywood, with the solid oak edging I made first. The problem was that the oak 1 X 2 is about a 1/16 inch thicker than the oak plywood, so I needed to add a shim to bring the outside surfaces into the same plane. Cutting the shims was a pain, using only a skil saw, but I finally figured out a way to do it - cut into the edge of an oak board leaving a 1/16" thick shim left at one edge, twice as wide as I needed. Then cut the face of the board twice to release the two shims. Worked well, after an hour figuring out how to set it up for straight cuts. Here is one side before gluing it together:









And, glued and clamped:









And, one side ready to sand:









Tomorrow will be time to assemble the sides and back to the base and top!


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## SKSuser (Mar 20, 2006)

How's it going?
Sorry, I didn't realize that this was the newest project until I looked at the dates.
Seems like its coming along nicely!


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The body of the cabinet is together now, and only needs a bit more sanding. I used glue blocks along every joint and a couple of dry wall screws at each joint to be sure it could take the handling while finishing it.









The doors will just be plain slabs of oak veneered plywood, so that part will go fast. Now, I really miss my drill press, which would make using hidden, cup hinges a whole lot easier. And, I will need a layer of thin sponge rubber on the top, since the top isn't perfectly flat, in spite of lots of belt sanding.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The doors are installed now, using surface mounted hidden hinges. Those hinges are great when you don't have the tools to install cup hinges.


















Next will be a bit more sanding, installing a shelf or two inside to store fish food, fertilizers, etc. leaving room for the filter and CO2 reactor. Then, I will stain and finish it.


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## ponyrandy (Jan 13, 2007)

Coming along nicely! I like the clean lines. Can't wait to see it stained and the tank and that nice hood on top of it.
Brian


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## BigRed27 (Mar 11, 2004)

Wahooo keep up the good work of making the rest of us (me) look bad with all your handy DIY woodwork.


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## ereefer (Jul 14, 2007)

Very nice, a good bookmark reference for stand building indeed!


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The compiments above convinced me not to shortchange myself on electrical hookups. So, today I installed my outlets, flush with the back wall of the cabinet. 















I wanted 5 double outlets, all protected by a GFCI, so I needed a 5 slot junction box, but couldn't find one. I had to use a 3 and a 2 slot box. The advantage of mounting the outlets like this is that they don't use us precious room inside the cabinet, and the cabinet needed to be further than that away from the wall anyway, to allow room for some of the plumbing. This is the neatest electrical hookup I have ever had in an aquarium stand. I will use two plug in mechanical timers for the lights and CO2 and the rest will be for whatever I end up needing to power - filter, heater, lights cooling fan, etc.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

WOW! When I think it couldn't get any better, you kick it up a notch with the electrical outlets and wiring. This is a wonderful inspiration, and when I get the space I'll be coming back and using this as a startup for a DIY stand. 

-John N.


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## ereefer (Jul 14, 2007)

Wow, I think I am going to ask the wife for clamps.... b-day next month!


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## bpimm (Jun 12, 2006)

Nice looking stand, Hoppy


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Thank you to all of you who complimented my stand. I'm now trying to remember what stain I used on the hood I made, so I can make the stand match it. I used to have a better memory! I can only find one can of stain in my garage, so that might be it. Maybe if I re-read my thread about the hood?

Edit: Golden Pecan! I re-read the other thread. And, that is the can I found in the garage. Now, I wonder if it is empty????


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## bpimm (Jun 12, 2006)

hoppycalif said:


> Thank you to all of you who complimented my stand. I'm now trying to remember what stain I used on the hood I made, so I can make the stand match it. I used to have a better memory! I can only find one can of stain in my garage, so that might be it. Maybe if I re-read my thread about the hood?
> 
> Edit: Golden Pecan! I re-read the other thread. And, that is the can I found in the garage. Now, I wonder if it is empty????


No it's not empty, it has "almost" enough to stain the new stand, and the new can you buy when this one runs out will be a different color so it won't match. I've been there before. you might want to get a new can and test the color against the canopy before you start. a slight difference in color won't show up as much with the separation from base to canopy but would show up if you finished up a door on the stand with it.

Hopefully you have enough to stain the whole stand in the garage.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

bpimm said:


> No it's not empty, it has "almost" enough to stain the new stand, and the new can you buy when this one runs out will be a different color so it won't match. I've been there before. you might want to get a new can and test the color against the canopy before you start. a slight difference in color won't show up as much with the separation from base to canopy but would show up if you finished up a door on the stand with it.
> 
> Hopefully you have enough to stain the whole stand in the garage.


I can see you have done this before! One nice thing about stains and the cans they come in, is that after a year or so in a hot garage the stain gets such a thick hard skin over it in the can that there is no question about buying a new can. Good engineering!


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I now have the cabinet stained and finish coated with water based urethane, glossy. I also found what seems to be a good cushion to go between the tank and the cabinet - a sleeping bag mat, made of closed cell polystyrene foam plastic, costing only $7 at Big 5 sporting goods store. The photo shows all - with the doors not yet re-attached to the hinges.


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## ponyrandy (Jan 13, 2007)

Very nice! I think I can see myself in it! Can't wait to see it with the tank and hood.
Brian


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Here is the final product, minus door knobs. Opening the doors now is a challenge, but who doesn't like a challenge???


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Great job Hoppy, looks very professional. Really like your approach to the sockets too. Well done.


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## ponyrandy (Jan 13, 2007)

Well done! Thanks for the journal and allowing us to follow along.
Brian


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## CraigThor (Aug 5, 2007)

Nice, now to convince my wife I need to build a new stand for my 150 and find some help to lift the heavy thing.

Craig


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

When I had a 120 gallon tank I built a real fancy stand for it, but it took two big burly football player neighbors to move it into the house for me. Then it took another such group of three to move the tank in an set it on the stand. That is the major downside to having a tank bigger than 55 gallons or so. Of course another downside is the load such a tank puts on the floor when you are on the second floor, not to speak of the problem of carrying things up the stairs. My 45 gallon is the absolute maximum size for me.

It's funny though, when I sold that big 120 gallon tank and the stand, a normal sized couple - man and woman - showed up with a pick up truck to haul it away. I chuckled and showed it to them, figuring the sale was off. So, they picked up the tank, carried it to the truck, came back, picked up the stand and carried it out to the truck. After I got my jaw up off the floor, I asked how they did that???? It seems both lift weights as a hobby. So.........does your wife need a good hobby?


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## mountaindew (Jul 22, 2007)

Nice work hoppy! i agree with you on tank size, i like 55 gal tanks myself and everyone asks me why i dont build larger ones and i reply as you stated above you need 2-4 people to move big stands and tanks. i build acrylic 55 gal tanks, hoods and base cabinets that i can move myself during construction and setup. the cost way more to build yourself but if you have skills you end up with a product that is much better then you can buy in most cases. also one thing i build into my tank cabinets that you might like for electrical power is a switch panel 
http://www.progearwarehouse.com/Chauvet-PC-08?sc=7&category=829
they work great ,easy to install and it cleans up all the cords and wire


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