# Leaf mould



## novianto.sutardi (Aug 10, 2010)

Is this what they called leaf mould?


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Not quite. Leaf mould is the dark, crumbly layer just on top of the soil in forests where leaves have been allowed to decompose naturally. The photo shows leaf litter before it has decomposed enough to be called leaf mould. In leaf mould you do not find whole leaves, and it is difficult to pick out individual leaves at all.


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## novianto.sutardi (Aug 10, 2010)

How about this one?


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Not yet. Leaf mould is really dark, chocolate colored, and you would not see so many whole leaves and intact stems.


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## novianto.sutardi (Aug 10, 2010)

And how about this?


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Sorry, still no. It looks like this.









Have you ever made compost? It almost looks like soil, except it's purely composted leaves. It's dark brown, almost black.


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## novianto.sutardi (Aug 10, 2010)

Hi Aaron!

Thanks for giving me the proper definition of leaf mould.

The reason why I'm creating this thread is that there are many confusion out there regarding the use of leaf mould in cryptocoryne cultivation.

You have provided the best answer for this.

However, let me tell you that the last picture in my thread was taken from the house of Jan Bastmeijer.
Based on the latest information I received, the most important factors in using leaf mould are:
- find the leaves that can get sink,
- half fermentated,
- having pH<5
- cannot get crumbled easily.

There are many things to be learned indeed.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Yes, you can get away with using leaves that have been soaked a long time. I've done it with good success.

The picture I showed is likely closer to the fagus soil the Europeans are using. It's essentially composted European Beech tree leaves. The American beech works as well IME.


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## illustrator (Jul 18, 2010)

I tried with beach mould but had at first problems collecting it. Then, for a while, plants did OK, but after some time everything started to rot. I think that the problem was in the particular types of beech forest in the Netherlands and elsewere in Europe.

In the Netherlands (where I am born), beech forest is essentially a monoculture of beech trees. It is so much so, that botanists had problems coming up with a name for the particular plant-association of Dutch beech forests. You see, plant associations are named after the two dominant plant species and a forest with only beech trees was difficult to name ...

I now live in Slovenia and have a beech-forest immediately behind my home. Only, this is a mixed forest with fir and silver fir trees, as well as a rich understore of herbs. Over here it is practically impossible to get good beech mould without a lot of roots of all kind of plants. And these roots will start rotting after a while ...

I will try again, sooner or later. Maybe I'll next yeat put a pile of leaves in a corner to get "pure" mould. Or I'll search for _Alnus_ mould, which is reputedly even better than beech mould (for sure has higher nitrogen content).


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## Trail_Mix (Nov 12, 2011)

What do you guys think of using Oak leaves? I'm from New York, and plan on going out to collect some leaves/leaf mould soon for emersed Crypts mainly. How much does it matter what type of leaf you use? For instance, I have several houseplants that lose leaves here and there. If I want to make my own mould for next year or whenever, what difference does it make what type of leaves I use?


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Trail_Mix said:


> What do you guys think of using Oak leaves? I'm from New York, and plan on going out to collect some leaves/leaf mould soon for emersed Crypts mainly. How much does it matter what type of leaf you use? For instance, I have several houseplants that lose leaves here and there. If I want to make my own mould for next year or whenever, what difference does it make what type of leaves I use?


Any deciduous hardwood tree should be fine to use. I've used silver maple with good success.


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