# Still cycling tank developing some algae growth



## edthetermite (Nov 11, 2012)

MY 29 gallon has been planted (heavily) for a week and yesterday I introduced 5 neon tetras to the tank. I am using the PPS fert program: just under 3 ml daily of the macro and micro nutrients. Ten hours of light (55 watt) and some strong indirect light in early morning and late afternoon. 

Algal growth (some is long and stringy)is observed on some plants (baby tears for one) and is forming on the landscaping driftwood that is in the center of the tank and the tank walls. pH is 6.98 and has been steadily rising from a start of about pH 6.35 a week ago. CO2 generation is DIY but is constant and bubble counter is more than 1 per second. Drop checker is a medium green.

Recommendations: cut back on lighting or ferts? Increase CO2? 

Any suggestions appreciated,

Ed


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## edthetermite (Nov 11, 2012)

Bump...


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

If your substrate can actually feed the plants (it's not just inert gravel) you can do what ADA does:

No fertilizers for the first 1-3 months. This is very important. Your fertilizer program has made your tank great for algae to grow. You need to make the tank void of nutrients for the algae to grow and full of nutrients for the plants to grow. In other words - super clean water and nutritious substrate. Make sure the N and P are not detectable with a test. If they are detectable you are basically betting that the plants will take over at some point. That's not a good bet but if you do not have a nutritious substrate it will be difficult to do what ADA does.

For the first month you put Activated Carbon in the filter.

Good CO2.

Good light.

Water changes - 30% once a week.

That's it. Simple, right? Well, what would you expect with water that has nothing for the algae to grow but the plants have a "hidden" source of food? The plants will take over.

After a month you remove the Activated Carbon and add more biomedia. At this point a VERY careful water fertilization is being started. But still no testable amounts of anything in the water.

All along make sure you have good mechanical filtration. Best is a second filter that only does mechanical filtration because it will be easy to clean. This is also very important because any waste particles that stay in the tank are a big, huge, unknown that will either suck up nutrients or release them all of a sudden. 

Hope you have a nutritious substrate and can follow the above advice. If you don't then you are gambling by keeping your tank full of water that is feeding both plants and algae. What will make the plants take over? Noone knows. Yes, it could happen. That is the very essense of your bet.


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## edthetermite (Nov 11, 2012)

niko said:


> Hope you have a nutritious substrate and can follow the above advice. If you don't then you are gambling by keeping your tank full of water that is feeding both plants and algae. What will make the plants take over? Noone knows. Yes, it could happen. That is the very essense of your bet.


Niko,

Your input is thought provoking. I am in a quandary now since I have a questionable nutritive substrate (Eco-complete) to deal with.

My options as I see it:

A. Stop fertilizers immediately; do a weekly 30% water change; let the carbon filter media remain in the Eheim for now. Attempt to add substrate nutrients in the form of osmocote pellets or, in my case, frozen worm castings.

B. Throw the dice and let things ride as they are now. I don't feel good about this.

C. Cut back on "lights on" period but this may stunt plant growth or even endanger their survival.

D. Tear tank down and replace substrate with one that is more organic (soil-based). Not a consideration at this point.

E. Weekly 30 % water changes w/ once a week fertilizers.

I hate to prolong or upset the initial cycling of the tank. The few fish I have are of secondary concern.
Would an algaecide only mask the problem and not provide a long term solution?

Decisions, decisions,

Ed


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## Woody0229 (Oct 29, 2012)

I would for sure cut down on the light specially if its getting sunlight.


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## Flear (Sep 29, 2012)

get your PH up.
might be a guess, but a low PH and the tank won't cycle either the bacteria don't do so well

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html
"It is also noteworthy that the primary nitrifying bacteria are affected by pH.
PH levels of 7.5 to 8.5 are considered optimal for healthy nitrification of ammonia, and nitrites, as nitrification rates are rapidly depressed as the pH is reduced below 7.0. At 6.0 basically all nitrification ceases!"

may not be relevant to your tank, but an idea


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## edthetermite (Nov 11, 2012)

Update:

Algal growth still aggressive.

Nitrate = 0 ppm
Phosphate = < .25 ppm

pH = 7.2

Light period = 8 hr

CO2 = less than bubble/sec

Plants: baby tears on driftwood (has most of the wispy algal growth)
java fern
vallisneria (this is one plant not doing well)
rotala rotundifolia
sword, eichinodorus
ludwigia arcuata
annubias barteri nana
microsorium
heteranthera stargrass
dwarf hairgrass
lilaeopsis brasilliensis
ludwigia glandulosa
limnophilia indica
hydrocotyle leucocephala
myriophylum simulans
hygrophilia difformis -water wisteria

Ferts reduced to every 2 to 3 days (3 ml ea. macro & micro) -30 gal tank

5 neon tetras added last week: 1 left. Local FPS said my water sample looked great. ????

The algae is mainly the "bearded" variety: long, fibrous, wavy brown-green in appearance.

Should photo period be reduced even further? Tank has been cycling 2 weeks now.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Keep in mind that if you actualy see algae you have a huge problem. Most people don't understand that simple point. As you probably know Amano shrimp are often used to eat the algae. But did you know that to completely clean algae that is covering the bottom of a 20 gallon tank you need about 250 shrimp? My point is that algae that you actually see is way bigger problem than most people think.

That means that to get rid of it it will take quite the effort. The best possible scenario is to prevent algae, not to fight them. At this point reducing fertilizing or increasing fertilizing will have little immediate effect.

But having very very low amounts of fertilizers in the water protects you from algae blooms, especially fast blooms. This is what prevention is.

So at this point what is best to do is to first reduce the light period. This will certainly slow down the algae. It will also slow down the plant growth. Do not reduce the CO2. Do 10-20% water changes every other day. Once you see and know for sure that the algae is not growing start increasing the light perdiod very carefuly - say 30 min every 3-4 days. Observe the algae growth, but be more concerned with what the plants are doing. If they are not growing things need to be tweaked again. As you see - you are in for a long battle. That's how it is and be patient about it.

Be careful what you assume about your test kits. Have you callibrated them by using a known concentration of N or P? Probably not. So every time you test you get a ballpark figure what your N and P are. How much N and P are needed for the established big algae in your tank to keep growing? Not very much at all. Keep that in mind. That's why I suggested frequent water changes - no matter what the test kits say you wil be reducing the N and P. Coupled with reduced light period you are actually doing something to stop the algae. But not much to make the plants grow. What you are after is a good starting base line. Not a miraculous plant growth and algae disappearing overnight.


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Eco Complete does not bring in ferts itself, but can hold ferts available to the plans, 
I would add slow release ferts as deep under the substrate as you can, and reduce the water column ferts. 

Another option: Look up the Siesta method of lighting. 
ie: Lights on 6AM to noon, then off for a couple of hours, then on again from 2PM to 8PM.

DIY (yeast) source of CO2 is not great for your tank size. I set up 2 bottles for 29 gallon tanks and alternate swapping them out.


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