# [Wet Thumb Forum]-Plumbing a custom tank with holes



## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Yesterday I went to Home Depot for some stuff and I decided to look at the plumbing stuff since I'm getting a custom tank. How do I plumb a custom tank if I get holes put in the bottom? I couldn't find anything that would suit my needs.

So, what do I have to get? Should I use silicon to make a seal or use a gasket? I'd imagine a gasket would be better since it makes repairs/leaks easier to fix.

Thanks,
Karl

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Yesterday I went to Home Depot for some stuff and I decided to look at the plumbing stuff since I'm getting a custom tank. How do I plumb a custom tank if I get holes put in the bottom? I couldn't find anything that would suit my needs.

So, what do I have to get? Should I use silicon to make a seal or use a gasket? I'd imagine a gasket would be better since it makes repairs/leaks easier to fix.

Thanks,
Karl

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

What you need are bulkhead fittings. Go to http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?siteid=6&pCatId=4013 to get an idea of what you are looking for.

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American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Rex,

You are a walking book of knowledge









OK, now I see what I am looking for. That should make things a snap.

It doesn't show it well in hte link you gave me, but i'm assuming that it uses a gasket seal. if not, what is the proper way to seal the bulkhead?

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

If I'm not mistaken they use a gasket. I have never used a bulkhead fitting in a tank but have installed plenty of them in boats. They normally come with gaskets. One on the inside and one on the outside.

Moderator










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I literally am using the ones from DrsFosterSmith. I got the double threaded fittings, so that the pipes on either side of the bulkhead need threaded connections.
Double Threaded Bulkhead Fittings

I used the 1" fittings which are industry standard and require a 1 3/4" hole. It does come with a rubber gasket which is used on the inside of the tank. I also siliconed over the top of the fitting to be on the safe side.

You then need to use teflon tape on all of your threaded fittings. I meant to, but screwed up at frist. I accidentally left the core fitting dry since I "KNEW" that I had already taped them.

Once I did it right I have never had a single drop of water come from them.

In my case I have three bulkheads;
1) flow from the tank into the canisters
2) flow from the canisters back into the tank
3) overflow in the tank to drain line

I've added a water line over the side and use the overflow to do automated water changes. I could even put it on a timer if I add a solenoid.

A suggestion is to tee the connections on the bottom of the bulkheads so that you can add more in/out lines without having to take everything apart. I did it after the fact when I added the second canister, but if you do them at the start, you could just leave them plugged.

I use 1" PVC for all of my plumbin with 550gph flow from two canisters. You could also get by with 3/4", but 1" was easy enough to hide in the substrate. Its also conveneient to get 1"PVC to 3/4" threaded connectors for use in adapting the hoses to threaded fittings.

I use 22mm eheim hoses which work well with 5/8" hose barbs, but with heat and vaseline could be used on 3/4" barbs. I am debating on changing all of the hoses for thread reinforced beverage hose. The problem could occur in any set up, but occasionally the hoses kink leading the filters to run dry. The eheim's have held up well both its not good for them. Lesser filters could burn up. If this is the 'from scratch' install I would go ahead and use them now.

*James Hoftiezer

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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

*James Hoftiezer

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

James,

From this picture:









What does each of hte bulkheads do? Overflow, in/out, etc.

Could you tell me from left to right.

Thanks,
Karl

Thanks.

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

When I get home, I'll see if I have the finished close-ups. If not I'll take some for you.

Left(BulkHead #1);
OVERFLOW - This pipe is the overflow for the water filling set up. As it is currently set up, 1" PVC is screwed into the bulkhead. About 10" up is a joiner. 10" higher is a twin elbow set up with an inlet strainer on it. The twin elbows allow me to adjust the strainer at the top to from 0" to -3" from the top.

The end result is that an water reaching the strainer enters the overflow and drains from the aquarium using a 1/2" line drilled through the floor. For water changes/topping off I just turn on the water and the overflow drain takes care of the rest.

Center(BulkHead #2);
INLET from filter - Comes from the bulkhead using 1" PVC. There are multiple outlets to create a circulating flow while redusing the current from any one outlet. Each outlet is a 3/4" threaded barb with various barb sizes from 1/4" to 3/4". The arm is currently buried in the substrate and exits in the finished aquascape below the wysteria. There are also three 1/4" barbs pointing in different directions along the arm. In all there are four outlets with 550gph flow.

Right(BulkHead #3);
OUTLET to filter - It looks pretty much as you see it except I have added 3"x8" course sponge filters onto each inlet instead of the strainers.

NOTE: None of the pipes inside the tank are glued. They can be taken apart by hand and moved as needed.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Thanks for the information on how you planned the I/O. That's a good idea, using the sponges to take water from the aquarium for filtering. I was just going to use some PVC with a lot of 1/8" holes drilled into it (and still might). Where did you get the sponges from. The LFS or on-line. Any info on the sponges you used could be great. I need a jump off point









For water from the filter(s), I think I'll be using barbs like you did, but a smaller variety in greater numbers.

Bulkhead placement: Right now, I think I'll be putting 4 bulkheadsin. Two on the left and two on the right. I want to leave the center area open as my aquascape might utilize a more open center (even though this is somewhat unlikely).

I'll consider a fifth bulkhead for future considerations and I'll just cap it for now. That way I can always put an overflow in down the road. I might as well do 3 bulkheads on each side







That way the overflow can go on either side down the road. Things are starting to fall into place









Maybe something like this on each side for bulkheads (in the diagonal pattern as shown)

-- BACK OF TANK --
| 1 3
| 2

Where:
1: future overflow
2: water from filter (using barbs)). The main PVC line will run parallel to the back of the tank.
3: The intake to the filter. One or two sponges will go off of this as close as possible to each other if there are two.

Thanks for the help. Do you think my plans for bulkhead placement are good? I may opt for one future overflow hole(as opposed to two) to save some cash. Might as well put atleast one in now though.

When I get the tank built, should I have them put the holes atleast an inch away from any wall and atleast 2" away from eachother?

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

And thanks again
















Karl Herman


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

The prefilter sponges came from an ebay dealer called aquabid. When all was said and done I paid too much for them but htey work great. They were 4" square by 8" high witha drilled pvc insert. The break up their outline I too a ravor blade to them and roughed them up, they hit them with some rustoleum primer.










Here's the top of the overflow strainer. The picture below it shows the twin elbows more clearly.

















*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Here's a close up of the undertank/bulkheads.
At the top of each tree, I would put an on off valve. I didn't and it has complicated some things. You can get by without but it would be easier with.










*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

On the number adn placement;

I think three total has worked just fine. Overall you do want to limit the number of water tight connections unless you have specific plans. It will also increase the costs.

In my case I lengthed the pipe for the inlets that you see in the first pictures. In the last pictures I think you can see that I extended it all the way to the far corner. I have inlets in two corners and at two different heights.

In the end my overflow doesn't take up much space as it is just a 1" PVC. I take it off at the lower joint for pictures and replace it with a cap.

If you go with ww.glasscages.com Tom will help you with the placement althoug a picture wouldn't hurt. He'll make sure yo have the room off the wall and in between. I think I used 3" between bulkheads, but you'll need to look into it.

*James Hoftiezer

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Thank you for the extra pictures. They are helping me better understand what I need to get done.

Last night I went to Home Depot to take a peak at the plumbing for ideas. They have next to nothing for threaded PVC. They had stoppers, but that's about it. Did you buy everything online or go to a plumbing specific store in your area?

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Almost all from Home Depot or Lowes.
The threaded ends are adapters to regular fittings/pipe. You take regular 1" PVC pipe then glue a 1"female to 1" male NPT(National Pipe Thread) then screw it into the bulkhead.

For the tees in the bottom you use a 1" female to 3/4" female NPT then screw your 3/4" barb adapter into the female threaded end.

All the other connections are standard PVC slip fittings. Don't confuse it with metal pipe that you actually have threaded. Its not done that way.

The only things I had to order was the barb adapters since no one local carried 5/8" barbs which is the preferred 22mm hose. I got that along with other stuff from www.usplastics.com

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by JamesHoftiezer:
> Almost all from Home Depot or Lowes.
> The threaded ends are adapters to regular fittings/pipe. You take regular 1" PVC pipe then glue a 1"female to 1" male NPT(National Pipe Thread) then screw it into the bulkhead.


*** Smacks head ***
Now, I really feal stupid








Looks like I get to go to Home Depot again. Oh darn











> quote:
> 
> For the tees in the bottom you use a 1" female to 3/4" female NPT then screw your 3/4" barb adapter into the female threaded end.
> 
> All the other connections are standard PVC slip fittings. Don't confuse it with metal pipe that you actually have threaded. Its not done that way.


Makes sense to me now.



> quote:
> 
> The only things I had to order was the barb adapters since no one local carried 5/8" barbs which is the preferred 22mm hose. I got that along with other stuff from http://www.usplastics.com
> 
> _James Hoftiezer


Once again, thank you. I'll be planning the filtering/heating over the next couple of days, and hopefully have a rig ready for posting for your opinions and the opinions of others. I'll e-mail glasscages soon about recomended bulkhead placements. I think I'm going to get away from the diagonal pattern and just place them all against the back wall. I'm sill debating how many to go with. Either 2, 3, 4 or 5. The thing about having to few is that I may regret it later. I feal that getting extra ones now makes sense as it may prevent headaches later. I'm really going to have to decide on 3,4 or5. I think 2 is out of the question. I actually think I'm doing 2 on each corner and possibly a third for future considerations. I think 5 is going to be the way to go, just laid out as follows:

+-- BACK OF TANK --------------------------+
| 1 2 3 4 5 |
| |
| |
| |
+-- FRONT OF TANK -------------------------+

If I remove any of these, it would be hole #3.

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I think 3 is ideal as long as you tee additional ports onto it.
I really can't come up with a reason to do seperate corners in a 4ft tank. Are you thinking two canisters .. one in each corner? 
If so I would suggest crossing the plumbing so that the tank gets a good mix.

In my case I just have them mixing on the in/outs under the tank. Even plugged bulkheads still need to be protected against leaks. Its also twice as many holes you have to drill in your stand. I have quad output and dual inputs above the water line, but that's done with pipe.

I just know the care I had to take with three bulkheads. I forgot to tape one fitting and it took me two days to troubleshoot. Double the bulkheads and you double the trouble.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

James (and everyone else).

I just got a price from glasscages.com. They said they sell heavy duty bulkhead fittings. Should I just get the fittings from them? They described them as "Schedule 80 bulkhead fittings". I don't think they are double threaded though. I can always modify them to be double threaded though.

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Depends on the price.
DrsFosterSmith is ~$8 per fitting, but then S&H. 
THe bulkheads are all pretty much standard, so what they have should be fine.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

I e-mailed them back inquiring about the bulkheads. They said they are threaded on the inside (female). This sounds perfect anywys. With the business they are in, I'm sure it is a good solution. Also a solution I like









http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## Phil Edwards (Jan 22, 2004)

As I have yet to get photos on a sever which will allow me to link w/ AB check out a post on my filter system at simplydiscus.

The aquascape at the bottom still looks like crap, but the plumbing is alright...









http://www.simplydiscus.com/forum/index.php?board=7&action=display&threadid=9625&start=0

Proverbs 3:7-8


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Nice filtration system. I hope to do something like that in the future.
The pic of the CO2 tank really shows me how I could accomplish CO2 inline with the filtration in my system. I might actually steal your design down the road







That's pretty much perfect and keeps things out of sight.

-------------

I think I have the plumbing and filtration figured out. I almost have the prelim layout planned, so that's good. I'm at about 60% on plant selection. The back/center is giving me trouble in planning. I'll be doing a new post in the near future with some plans. I have a good idea of the layout, so I think I know what I'm doing for the bulkheads

BACK OF TANK
+--------------------------------------+
| 1 *****2**************** 3 |
| |
| |
+--------------------------------------+

1 and 2 will be about one foot apart.
Water will be taken from the tank via 1 and 3, go through the filtration system and put back into the tank via 2. The stars represent PVC that will be buried in the substrate with maybe 4 nozzles poking through the substrate. I hope to put sponges on 1 and 3 for intake purposes, but I'm having trouble finding sponges online. From reading the filtration specs on my filter system, I figure the real flow rate will be about 350 gph, so I need sponges that can do atleast 400 gph.

Underneath, I'll probably use flexible tubing, just to make maintenance easier. Maybe I'll incorporate a drawer system for the filter so it just "rolls" out of the tank.

Thanks for the link.

Your tank looks great!

Karl

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## Phil Edwards (Jan 22, 2004)

Karl,

You can usually get prefilter sponges from your LFS that are used for W/D filter overflow boxes. They're usually rated for much higher than 350gph. Also, since you're going to be using two intakes off one main line you're not going to be getting 350gph on each head.

Something I had to keep in mind in my outlet was that the one reached first was going to have the highest pressure and the farther one would have less. Unless you make your outlets significantly smaller than your line you're not going to get enough pressure to have consistent flow out of all your heads. Just something to think about that I learned the hard way.









Proverbs 3:7-8


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Phil looking SWEET. I have a 350gph pondmaster/mad drive that's sitting around(never got around to ebay it). let me know if you want me to bring it up. On the amano outlets, that's basically what I did but from the bottom instead of the top. What you could to to control the rate is put in female adapters and then use various size barbs to control the flow and create a little back flow. I use a combination of 1/4 and 3/4 outlets on my four ports.

P.S> What's a good night to come up this week? Matrix starts Thursday









*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

P.S> just let me know how much space you want. You're welcome to piggy back your pics (as long as you posit in my DIY forum







)

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Each sponge needs a 200 rating or so. Yup, i cought that









To get the outflow to work properly, I'll probably do something like what James did. If I use four barbs, I'll but smaller barbs in the center area(closer to the feed) and largr ones to the outside. I think the one on the far right will be the largest since it is going to throw water into an are that is a large field of dwarf sag (amybe 24"x12").

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## Zerj (May 1, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Last night I went to Home Depot to take a peak at the plumbing for ideas. They have next to nothing for threaded PVC. They had stoppers, but that's about it. Did you buy everything online or go to a plumbing specific store in your area?


I usually find out that Home Depot has just about every plumbing fitting except what I need. I have found TrueValue hardware stores can have a better selection.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I use over flow sponges on mine and have noticed no restrictions with ~300gph through each.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Something like this?:
Sponge Filter 

For reference, what are the dimensions of the sponge you are using? Ballpark numbers are fine.



> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by JamesHoftiezer:
> I use over flow sponges on mine and have noticed no restrictions with ~300gph through each.
> ...


http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

There are the ones paul has; 
Amiracle Pre-Filter Foam 

I got mine off ebay, but in the end you're looking at a cylinder or square ~6" tall, 4" round with a ~1 1/4" hole in the middle. 
Course filters are best. They don't clog and keep out all the plants and fish.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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