# Complete n00b on Dry ferts



## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

I have absolutly no idea. Everyone is telling me that dry ferts are the way to go, but I have no idea. I'm redoing my 29g completely after another algae attack, and am thinking dry ferts are probably the way to go. But is there a begginers guide, or can you all outline some basics for me?

Cheers. Sorry for the broad questions...


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## eklikewhoa (Jul 24, 2006)

should be tacked up top of this section....Estimative Index and all the other tacked threads.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

Visit gregwatson.com and purchase a pound of:

Plantex CSM+B
Potassium Nitrate KN03
Monopotassium Phosphate KH2P04
Potassium Sulphate K2S04 (optional)

Check out the stickies in the forum such as PPS and Estimative Index and decide which dosing method works best for you.

-John N.


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Hi
Aquatic plant fertilization is no longer a difficult procedure. Getting dry fertilizers is cheap and easy to mix. This is the recipe. 

*PPS-Pro*

In 1 litre bottle #1:
59 grams K2SO4
65 grams KNO3
6 grams KH2PO4
41 grams MgSO4
Fill up with distilled water.

In 1 litre bottle #2:
80 grams of CSM+B or equivalent trace element mix 
Fill up with distilled water.

Dose every morning, gallon / 10 [in ml]. 

Example: 
For 100 gallon aquarium dose 100 / 10 = 10 ml. Dose 10 ml of #1 and 10 ml of #2. 
For 30 gallon aquarium dose 3 ml. 

If you like you can do water changes, if you don't you don't have to. Water changes are optional. Some substrates dissolve in water. The rate can be monitored by increase of KH. In such case partial water change is needed.

Most plants grow better with CO2 injection. If you decide to go for pressurized CO2, adjust the rate to one bubble per second. This is good for plants and fish. 

There is no need for water testing. 

Lighting is an important part of a planted aquarium. Low intensity lights need to be on 10-12 hours, medium 8-10 hours and very high light 5-6 hours.

Feel free to ask questions.
Edward


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## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

OK great, thanks everyone! I forgot to put my stats: 29g, 2.3WPG (Coralife single-strip), DIY CO2. I was going to do John's suggestion, getting CSM+B, KNO3, KH2PO4 and K2SO4, but now I'm confused. Should I get MgSO4 as well? Also, how big should my WCs be if going by Edwards formula?


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Most tap waters don't have Mg. If they do then it is usually as MgCO3. Mg in this form is not the easiest for plants to utilize. PPS-PRO solution by design includes Mg in MgSO4 form to overcome possible deficiency. Dry MgSO4 is available also in drug stores.


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## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

OK then, I'll get that as well. So I've got the list on Greg Watson, about to buy. You guys made such a daunting task so easy! Thank you all so much.


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## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

Well, my algae is coming back well and trully, though with a lot less brown algae. This stuff appears to be a thick, greenish slime that's now coating my vals. 


I've been dosing at night, since I leave at 6.00am and would forget in all likelyhood. Should I really be trying to dose in the morning? This is the only thing that I can think of.


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Can you tell us more about what you are doing? And is it blue-green algae?


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## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

I'm dosing your suggestions Ed, except in the evening instead of in the morning. I am seeing an improvement, as the brown algae isn't coming back (stoked about that) but the BGA is taking hold faster then it ever has. 


I guess I'll just pre-prepare the solution for the morning, though it's often another 5 hours until the lights turn on...(pre-timed)


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

You need to fix the BGA issue first. This algae hates high KNO3, water flow, low pH and constant mechanical disturbance. So, I would do PPS-With water changes system now. Get some power heads and don't let the algae rest. It will give up and die. 

Do you know any of your tap water parameters?
What is your substrate?


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## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

Honestly wouldn't have a clue about my tap water other then it is in the high 7-low 8 Ph range. I don't see how I'm going to get a powerhead in there...

And I just switched my substrate from sand back to plain ol' gravel. So more water changes? Should I add more KNO3 to the solution?


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

No, don't add more KNO3. PPS-With water changes system has plenty of KNO3. You need water flow and this is the power head you need.


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## Aussie_hippie_2 (Nov 11, 2006)

cheers.


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