# Making 1 CO2 system into 2



## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

I want to use a single 5lb CO2 cylinder for both an inline reactor on my 30g and a atomizer on my 10g.

The atomizer is run at high pressure (ie, no bubble counter) and the inline is at low pressure.

I will be getting all my stuff from www.aquatic-store.com.

I called up milwaukee (as I was considering theirs) and was told that the regulator, solinoid and bubble counter used epoxy in the threads and you couldn't take it appart.

Can anyone think of a creative way to run a high and low pressure setup with parts at www.aquatic-store.com ?

Thanks!


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## turbomkt (Mar 31, 2004)

Tony,
You're looking for a manifold of some sort. Here's one I just found. It's a little pricey compared to a single regulator, but it would probably get the job done with the simplest setup.

http://www.morebeer.com/index.html?page=detail.php3&pid=D1065

I'd check with your local brewer's supply or a place like www.airgas.com. You'll probably find both relatively close to you...


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## IUnknown (Feb 24, 2004)

You could leave the needlevalve that you have fully open, and buy an inline needle valve. Then just get a Y adapter and place it after your current needle valve and put the new needle valve on the low pressure side. I use the Fabco needle valve.

http://www.wcf.com/co2iron/


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## turbomkt (Mar 31, 2004)

Although splitting it off that way would get two CO2 feeds, I think he is specifically looking for different CO2 pressures. While a needle valve will limit flow very well, how well will it do with controlling pressure?


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## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

Because the conductance is different, you will get different pressures. I THINK I found an option. I called JBJ and they have a 2way manifold (w/ needle valves) accessory. You put it in place of their needle valve and can get an additional bubble counter (which I won't need). Marc has something that fits the description..now I just need to confirm it.


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

Gomer said:


> I want to use a single 5lb CO2 cylinder for both an inline reactor on my 30g and a atomizer on my 10g.
> 
> The atomizer is run at high pressure (ie, no bubble counter) and the inline is at low pressure.
> 
> ...


Although the Milwaukee is expoxied, it can be taken apart, however, just like the JBJ models it's a struggle and it may void the warranty. The JBJ we have was definitely expoxied as well. The use of a 40 watt soldering iron right at the joint for a few seconds will help, just don't let it get the solenoid or regulator too hot, and it's easier if you take the gauges off and clamp the regulator body in a vise (use plastic strips to keep from marring the body).


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## Robert Hudson (Feb 5, 2004)

You mean this one? If attaching this to either the JBJ or Milwaukee is as difficult as what Mr. glass garden says, then the solution is an INLINE manifold like this:










I can get them from 2 to practicaly any number of needle valves, but the basic limit is 8.


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## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

I recently got the 3 way manafold for a JBJ regulator. 2 wrenches and the old needle valve was off. Replacing with the JBJ tripple manifold was easy.


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## Corigan (Mar 15, 2004)

Robert,

What is the part #/model #/manufacturer of the manifold with 2 needle valves shown in the first picture? It looks exactly what I am needing for a ma957 so I can inject into my second aquarium.

Matt


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## Robert Hudson (Feb 5, 2004)

It is sold/made thru JBJ, so it better work with a JBJ regulator. I was surprised to learn that Milwaukee says it should not be done...I don't see why not. It shouldn't be any different than any other regulator. I do understand though how that would void the warranty. That is completely understandable.

Personaly, I am somewhat afraid to try and rip apart a regulator and prefer to use the inline one, but that is just me. I have sold dozens of these brass screw in manifolds and have not heard one complaint yet. Anybody here remember M3? This is like their hexmanifold.

The inline flow control manifold is made by an American company that manufactures high presicion needle valves.


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

Take apart the JBJ regulator and see how fast your warranty is void.

The problem with using the inline model is that your still putting it after the solenoid valve aren't you? That means all tanks are on or off. I would suggest going with a generic regulator if you're not keen on taling apart the plumbing on the JBJ or Milwaukee and plumb it as needed for the application.


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Even if you dont take apart the JBJ regulator, see how fast the warranty is void! I'm not sure about the warranty on the Milwaukee but the JBJ is only six months! At least that is what it was when I got mine. Man, how time flies! It seems like I just got it. 

I am nearing the end of this 6 month period and may just order the JBJ splitter and try it out. I also have another regulator from my "homebrewing" days so I could also use this one. Depends on which one will be easier to set up I guess. 

As far as plumbing it after the solenoid, both of my tanks are on timers for the lights and they go off at the same time so this isn't much of an issue for me. I suppose if you had tanks that were on different schedules this would be an issue.

I am wondering about "voiding" the warranty. Could this just be an attempt to get us to buy another regulator instead of using a less expensive splitter? 

I'm gonna have to do more research into the inline manifold. I've been thinking about DIY CO2 but really don't want the hassle and inconsistency of it.


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## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

No issues with putting the JBJ manifold on the JBJ regulator. JBJ rep even walked me through the installation since I wasn't sure about the solinoid getting in the way of installation (which niftly ..my new word...rotates 90°)


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Well that's good news! Now I just have to get that splitter, figure out how to rout the CO2 lies from one side of the room to the other and hook up my CO2.


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

Gomer said:


> No issues with putting the JBJ manifold on the JBJ regulator. JBJ rep even walked me through the installation since I wasn't sure about the solinoid getting in the way of installation (which niftly ..my new word...rotates 90°)


Are we talking installation before or after the solenoid?

According to the people I talked to, namely the JBJ dealer I purchased mine from, if I remove the solenoid (which I did to install some nipples and tee's so I could tap off before the solenoid) the warranty is void. Bit like the previous poster said, it's only a six month warranty so big deal.


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## Corigan (Mar 15, 2004)

Robert Hudson said:


> I was surprised to learn that Milwaukee says it should not be done...I don't see why not. It shouldn't be any different than any other regulator. I do understand though how that would void the warranty. That is completely understandable.


I am curious to see as to why connecting the JBJ manifold to a ma957 shouldn't be done. Does Milwaukee make a similiar manifold that would help out individuals who are looking to do a similiar concept with a milwuakee setup? Has anyone tried to modify a ma957 with the splitter that is shown?

Sorry to be a bear with questions, I'm just trying to figure out a setup that would work for me (that would be cost effective) so I can stop mixing up yeast. It's killing me knowing I have a pressurized co2 setup 10-15 feet from an aquarium that I am having to do a pop bottle generator on.. 

Matt


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## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

I split after the solinoid. CO2 is always on, so I didn't need to split before.


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

They most likely don't recommend it be done due to the difficulty of removing the fitting from the regulator, they're expoxied in and it takes a bit of careful work to remove them, but I have the Milwaukee and JBJ and both were a royal pain to disassemble, the JBJ I have appeared to be epoxied in as well.

The inline option posted by Robert would seem to be a decent alternative in this case.


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## Robert Hudson (Feb 5, 2004)

Yeah, but Troy, (is that your name? Common man, use your name for crying out loud!) on the other hand, I do not quite trust Bryan's (of Milwaukee) knowledge or judgement in this area. Epoxy? What does that mean? Every regulator has a needle valve that is fixed with some kind of sealant. Removing it should not be any big deal. I could be wrong, but I can't really see how the Milwaukee should be any different. Milwaukee does not make any manifold. The big difference between them is that the JBJ has a fixed working pressure.


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## Steve Pituch (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi all,

I'm a little late with this but in case you didn't do a search there is a thread on DIY cheap manifolds at :

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=601&highlight=co2+manifold

where I have a picture of one I bought from Tom Barr.

Steve Pituch


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

Robert Hudson said:


> Yeah, but Troy, (is that your name? Common man, use your name for crying out loud!) on the other hand, I do not quite trust Bryan's (of Milwaukee) knowledge or judgement in this area. Epoxy? What does that mean? Every regulator has a needle valve that is fixed with some kind of sealant. Removing it should not be any big deal. I could be wrong, but I can't really see how the Milwaukee should be any different. Milwaukee does not make any manifold. The big difference between them is that the JBJ has a fixed working pressure.


The "epoxy" actually appears to be more of some type of "locktite" compound, it really doesn't give easily without a little heat like locktite. But then my JBJ was a bear to wrench apart as well, and it defintiely had a similar substance on it. The heat just softens it a bit and with a 40 watt iron, the heats focused on the joint.

And yes, it's Troy, and I don't see where I can change my user name to common man :?

The biggest problem I have with the JBJ IS that it's a fixed pressure, I want to be able to adjust it, and the one I have reads 50 PSI line pressure, what am I doing with it, inflating tires? I tried to tap off of it with Class A 68PSI tubing with the needle valve by a the tank and it blew it right off the fitting. I'm sure that's atypical of the JBJ line but it's also a matter of personal choice as to whether or not adjustable pressure is neccessary.

Milwaukee doesn't make a manifold to be certain, but myself, I'd rather make the thing I need which really isn't all that hard, or there are more than a few aftermarket options, like your inline manifold which incidentally I steered a potential customer to the other day. I just went to Lowe's bought about $6.00 worth of brass fittings, got a few Clippard valves from a wholeslaer and built exactly what I needed. I've even had good success with a $3.00 needle valve from Lowe's, all it took was the ability to set the line pressure to suit the valve for consistent bubble rate.


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## aquatic-store.com (Jun 23, 2004)

You could also use the 6 way splitter and run it directly to your tubing. The hex manifold has an attachment that you don't even hae to screw onto anything.
This comes with individual needle valves as well.
http://www.aquatic-store.com/index.html?target=dept_537.html&lang=en-us

That is the piece in my hand








Bigger pictures on the site

Marcus

Http://www.aquatic-store.com


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## Roger Miller (Jun 19, 2004)

If you're uncomfortable with taking a regulator assembly apart (I am) then you might be able to find someone who does it for a living and have them do it for you.

I wanted the solenoid taken out of my JBJ assembly, so when I switched my 5 lb bottle out at the gas supplier I took the regulator along with me. I asked if they had someone who could take out the solenoid. They didn't but they referred me to a guy who rebuilds regulators. I paid $20 to have him take out the solenoid and replace it with a straight adapter about the same length.

If it came to screwing a manifold directly into the regulator assembly I'd probably take the whole thing back to him again and get it installed right.


Roger Miller


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

The safest way to take your assembly apart is to remove the gauges first, then you can clamp the regulator body in something while you disassemble the plumbing. The key since the fittings are brass is to use the right size wrenches otherwise you stand a good chance of just rounding off the fittings. As I suggested earlier, a bit of heat from a soldering iron helps a great deal as long as your careful with it.

Personally, if I were to do one now, the inline manifold Robert has looks very attractive for the money, and even the 3 way he has could be used in line since it appears to have compression fittings on it that would accept tuning. For the money it seems to be a great value.


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

I've even had good success with a $3.00 needle valve from Lowe's said:


> Troy What working pressure did you find worked? I have a homemade 2 way manifuld, like Steve Pituch linked, that I use to run (obviously) 2 tanks. I have some trouble with flucuating pressures, and therefore, buble rates into my tanks. I used cheaper valves from my local hardware store. They work good but as the pressure of hte bottle changes (due to temp changes. New england gets a bit cool at night some times. I don't have central air or anything My regulator is one I bought from the local brew shop, 2 valve. I am sure there are beter things out htere but it was convinent I seem to need to adjust the needle valves every day or so. ANy sugggestions. What PSI would you set the output of hte regulator to?
> 
> Oh, and I believe the Troy thing was that you could sign your name at the bottom of your posts. Personally, it would be nice to know the name of a potential buisness I might wan tto shop with


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## Troy Hendrickson (Jun 20, 2004)

Oops, sorry bout that Dennis, I wasn't paying attention and answered logged into my old account.

With the cheapo hardware store needle valve (which I eventually replaced with a Clippard that doesn't seem to be all that much better except for a bit more adjustment) I was running about 10 pounds PSI and got a fairly steady bubble rate into a Hagen ladder. The Clippard needs a little more for the same app, about 15 PSI.

Here in Iowa we have parts of the season where we get wide temp swings, and in the summer we have AC and in the winter heat that we have set to deviate by as much as 10 degrees during the overnight hours with no problems. I've seen the tank pressure fluctuate but never the line pressure really, at least as indicated on the gauges.

We're testing a SMC PVC needle valve right now that so far has been as good as the clippard at half the price.


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## Daemonfly (Mar 21, 2004)

I bought a 6-way manifold to fit on my JBJ regulator. I think I got it from aquatic-store.com, but I can't access that site right now to verify 

Anyway, all I had to do was open the JBJ needle valve all the way, pop the tubing nut off and the manifold screwed on to the threaded end of the needle valve (Didn't have to mess with dissassembling the JBJ setup). I then use the 6 needle valves on the manifold to adjust CO2. I have smaller tanks, so the 6-way on a non-adjustable JBJ isn't a problem as theres not that much CO2 going through it all.


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