# Mulligan's DIY 85



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Hello everyone. I'm new to planted tanks. Actually, never had a tank larger than 10 gallons of any kind. But this stuff fascinates me and I like to build stuff. So I thought I'd post a thread here to document all my diy stuff associated with my new 85 gallon. Actually, I started this 2 years ago, but life got in the way and I never set it up. So here goes.

I have the 85 gallon tank. Plans are to:

build stand and hood
build filter from a pressurized tank I have
inject pressurized co2 with diy inline diffuser
pipe for no mess water change, drain and top off
diy inline heater
in line ph sensor
in line temp guage
possible auto inject nutrients??

I want to have no equipment in tank besides inlet and outlet

comments and critiques are always welcome  . Like I said, I'm brand new to planted tanks, so the experience of others is certainly welcome.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

*Tank Stand*

Here is the tank stand I'm working on. It needs more sanding, stain and then poly. Also doors, some trim and a floor that won't leak (I hope).


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

*water supply*

here are some pics of the water supply line. It is run from the tank stand area up through the ceiling and down to my house water supply, bypassing the water softener.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

*Hood*

Here is the beginnings of the hood. Cut frame pieces and mitered corners.









Next I cut dato slots in the pieces for a lip that will rest on the tanks and for cross members that will support the lights. Here is a pic with the datos and some lip pieces that I've begun to fit. It will hold a 2 x 55 bright kit from ah supply and 4 32 watt t-8's with diy reflectors


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

Your stuff looks pretty good. I like your list of diy projects. It is a lot of fun building this stuff.

When you get to doing the plumbing works, let me know what you decide for an inline temp gauge. I am interested in putting one in my system but haven't found one that I'm comfortable plumbing in.


----------



## mbrant (Jul 24, 2006)

Hi Mulligan,

I made the hood on my 90 Gallon Tank. I don't have photos handy but I did a few things to make life easier.

One thing about planted tanks is that you are constantly (or at least regularly) in there tinkering with them. Water Changes, Adding fertilizers, feeding fish, trimming plants, re-landscaping, etc. all bring me into my tank on a daily basis. As a result, easy access was a key. I don't know how you plan for access, but I built my hood to be about a foot to a foot and a half (I forget) tall. I hinged the front to provide access without having to reach over the hood. The tank is deep enough on its own to present challenges, I didn't want to have to reach over the added height of the hood.

I also didn't want to consider removing the hood for maintenance. In addition to the weight and inconvenience, I wanted to keep the lights over the hood so I could see what I was doing while doing my tasks in it. 

Instead of fixing the cross beams to which I have my lighting attached, I put in cleats on both short sides, and rested the lighting beams on top of them. My tank has two cross beams with three PC fixtures (2 and 1). I have the ability to remove both beams and lights, just one, or just pushing them towards the back to allow me some room to work. I put the beams high enough so that the lights were about 4 inches above the water level.

I mounted the ballasts on the top side of the beams to facilitiate their removal. This added a good deal of heat, so I had to retrofit two exhaust fans into the canopy. Not the best situation, as it adds some noise, but not bad; we don't even notice the noise anymore.

I hope I did ok in describing this. If not, reply and I'll post some pictures (if I can figure out how to post pictures).

-Mike


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> Your stuff looks pretty good. I like your list of diy projects. It is a lot of fun building this stuff.
> 
> When you get to doing the plumbing works, let me know what you decide for an inline temp gauge. I am interested in putting one in my system but haven't found one that I'm comfortable plumbing in.


Thanks adamt. I'll keep you posted on the inline temp sense.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

mbrant, those sound like some good Ideas to consider. I'm planning on having the whole canopy hinge from the wall so It swings up and out of the way for access. I'm kind of winging it as I go along. Thanks for the inputs.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

Are you able to drill your tank? The next time I get a new tank I'm definitely going to make sure I have that option.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> Are you able to drill your tank? The next time I get a new tank I'm definitely going to make sure I have that option.


I have no idea and won't be finding out. That is definitely beyond my limited set of skills, lol.


----------



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Tank access with lighting still available is very important. I have to remove my hood for much of the maintenance, even though the front half is hinged to swing up out of the way. When I do that it gets very hard to do a good job, with no light. I don't like the appearance of very high hoods, so I didn't go that way, but there has to be an ingenious compromise there somewhere. One way, of course, is the open top tank, with pendant lights, but I didn't chose to go that way - maybe next time.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

I was considering building little rollers for my lights so I could slide them to the back of the hood while I was accessing the tank. But when I got my ah kit, it was so skinny that I didn't need to. However, I don't think the access I have now is very sufficient for doing a lot of work. Luckily I have a 12" wide tank so it can't be that bad. It's just so freaking tall (24") that it doesn't matter what kind of top access I have it's going to be a pain to work in the tank after it gets filled up.

I'm probably going to get some of those long ass scissors and learn to be a surgeon with them.


If you could drill the tank you could get every piece of pipe and equipment completely out of there. I really wish I could drill mine.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

hoppycalif said:


> Tank access with lighting still available is very important. I have to remove my hood for much of the maintenance, even though the front half is hinged to swing up out of the way. When I do that it gets very hard to do a good job, with no light. I don't like the appearance of very high hoods, so I didn't go that way, but there has to be an ingenious compromise there somewhere. One way, of course, is the open top tank, with pendant lights, but I didn't chose to go that way - maybe next time.


Hoppy, I'm trying to make mine pretty low profile as well. What you say about being able to work with the lights on makes good sense though. Maybe hinging to the wall isn't the answer. I'll have to think about that part some more.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> I was considering building little rollers for my lights so I could slide them to the back of the hood while I was accessing the tank. But when I got my ah kit, it was so skinny that I didn't need to. However, I don't think the access I have now is very sufficient for doing a lot of work. Luckily I have a 12" wide tank so it can't be that bad. It's just so freaking tall (24") that it doesn't matter what kind of top access I have it's going to be a pain to work in the tank after it gets filled up.
> 
> I'm probably going to get some of those long ass scissors and learn to be a surgeon with them.
> 
> If you could drill the tank you could get every piece of pipe and equipment completely out of there. I really wish I could drill mine.


Yes, that is deep. Long scissors and a steady hand required.....


----------



## bpimm (Jun 12, 2006)

mulligan said:


> Hoppy, I'm trying to make mine pretty low profile as well. What you say about being able to work with the lights on makes good sense though. Maybe hinging to the wall isn't the answer. I'll have to think about that part some more.


Actually the hinging from the wall is not a bad idea, you need to incorporate a latch or brace system that will hold it part way open giving you good access and still have enough light to work with. on my 100 gal canopy it hinged from the back of the stand and I had supports for half open and full open. It worked good I had good access and good light. There is a picture of it in a thread about DIY canopy's a while back.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

You could put some gas struts in it so it would stay open by itself.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

I have a new idea that would replace hinges all together. But, I need to research it some more to see if it is viable.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

Please do tell. I don't know why I'm so interested in this.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> Please do tell. I don't know why I'm so interested in this.


Haha, let me get the hood finished first and see how much it weighs. I think that is going to be an issue because two of my reflectors are of a heavier guage stainless steel (government job at the shop where I work - beggers can't be choosers) and the tounge and groove paneling on the hood is thicker than what I used on the bottom because HD was out of it and I'm too impatient to wait for new stock.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

> HD was out of it and I'm too impatient to wait for new stock.


That is the story of my life


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

*Heating Element*

Can a heating element be oversized for the application. I have an 85 gallon tank and a 1000 watt element. I can control it well, to whatever degree variation I want (IE: 75-78 deg.). Anyone see any trouble putting this inline in a stainless steel housing?


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Here is the hood frame assembled with one coat of stain.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

Did you decide about the hinging mechanism yet?


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> Did you decide about the hinging mechanism yet?


Not yet, but whatever it is, it will have to be completely hidden from view. I can't stand looking at visible "junk" attatched to or going into the tank. Something with gas struts is not a bad idea. Or maybe I can get my hands on a little hydraulic unit,


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

For some reason I have been putting a lot of thought into this subject. I think this is what I would do if I built my hood today.

What do you think of this idea-

I was thinking that maybe a guy could make 2 cabinet doors for the lid of the hood that open up to the left and right. Like this- the black thing on the right is a first class MS Paint gas strut









If you were crafty enough to put in push button releases on a latch system with gas struts it could be like a truck tool box with suicide doors.

If you use gas struts you will have to have a latching system anyways because they naturally push open. 
Add An Elegant, Push Button Catch To Doors, Push Button And Catch

Here is a pic of the type of push button releases I was talking about. For your application you would rotate the device 90 degrees to the right so the magnet would be holding the door down.

There are several potential downfalls to this system, but it would be sweet if you pulled it off.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> For some reason I have been putting a lot of thought into this subject. I think this is what I would do if I built my hood today.
> 
> What do you think of this idea-
> 
> I was thinking that maybe a guy could make 2 cabinet doors for the lid of the hood that open up to the left and right. Like this- the black thing on the right is a first class MS Paint gas strut


Wow, thanks for putting the time in to draw that up! Won't work though because my reflectors will occupy most of the internal hood space and won't be connected to the top panel. Also, don't know if I like the idea of bulbs in motion. If one fell out during opening, that would be a mess when it shattered.

Keep them coming though. We'll come up with something cool and functional.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

That was bit much. I had a little too much coffee at work this morning before I came up with that one.

What kind of lights are you going to be using?
Can you tell me the dimensions of your hood?


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> That was bit much. I had a little too much coffee at work this morning before I came up with that one.
> 
> What kind of lights are you going to be using?
> Can you tell me the dimensions of your hood?


thinking of my tank at work? that's flattering, lol

I have a 2 x 55 watt light kit from AH Supply and 4 T-8's that I'm splitting into two diy reflectors.

The dimensions are 51 1/4" x 21 1/4" x 7" for the box. There will also be some finish trim on top and bottom. Here's the latest pic:


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Can you cut the black strip off flush with the glass on a tank? Mine bows in and out and is going to be hard to cover.


----------



## schaadrak (Aug 18, 2006)

mulligan said:


> Can you cut the black strip off flush with the glass on a tank? Mine bows in and out and is going to be hard to cover.


On the top or bottom?


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

schaadrak said:


> On the top or bottom?


On the bottorm. Not under the glass where it supports the tank, but the facing.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Anyone out there have an either of my questions regarding the heater and the plastic tank base?


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

I'm taking a break tomorrow from building the stand and hood because I'm going to the shop at work. That means access to welders!!

Below is the pressure vessel I'll be using for my filter/heater/fert injection combo unit. It will also have a pressure guage on top. I need to weld a 3/4" outlet on the top, replacing one of the 1/4" inlets. I got this tank free from one of the suppliers we used to represent. It's stainless steel and has a volume of 2 gallons.










Here is an overhead shot. There are 4 ea. 1/4" outlets on top and a 3/4" inlet at the base that I welded on. One inlet with a dip tube. I'll be replacing one with a 3/4" outlet. The dip tube will be used to auto inject ferts. One will be used for a pressure guage, one for the heater cord, the last for a pressure releaf valve. It will be union joined for removal and will have a drain port valve below it in the plumbing.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Here is a collection of the stuff I have acquired so far for this project. I am very fortunate to work in an industry where I can acquire this stuff through contacts and customer recycle bins and bone yards.









The pump for fert injection is a pd diaphragm pump that a friend got for me from a defunct golf course
There are several fittings, valves, solenoid valves, screening, etc. that I have gotten from friends in my industry at little or no cost. All used, except the pressure vessel, but in great condition.
I did purchase the Iwaki Pump new. It's rated for around 800 gph.


----------



## mahamotorworks (Nov 7, 2006)

WOW cant wait to see how this all turns out. I wouldnt remove the bottom facing of a tank unless you are going to remove and replace all of it. To MY understanding it is what holds the bottom of the tank together. I would work around it. I dont think it is worth testing it then finding out one night that you hav 85G of water that you now have to clean up.

MAHA


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

The Industrial Aquarium- 
That looks pretty hefty. I'm excited to see how it all goes down.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

mahamotorworks said:


> WOW cant wait to see how this all turns out. I wouldnt remove the bottom facing of a tank unless you are going to remove and replace all of it. To MY understanding it is what holds the bottom of the tank together. I would work around it. I dont think it is worth testing it then finding out one night that you hav 85G of water that you now have to clean up.
> 
> MAHA


I guess I'll leave it alone. That means to trim it out, I'll have to use something very thin or the width of the tank will stick out past the edge of the stand. Mulligan does not like things that turn out to be overhung, or square or plumb


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> The Industrial Aquarium-
> That looks pretty hefty. I'm excited to see how it all goes down.


Industrial indeed. I'm chipping away a little each day.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

> I'm chipping away a little each day.


I know that feeling


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

adamt said:


> I know that feeling


Cleaning the garage today. Can't seem to find the tools I need fast enough, lol. Need better organization and I need to mount my bench grinder on my bench so I can use it for polishing my diy reflectors.

Here's a new pic pressure vessel with the 3/4" outlet welded in place.


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Been away on vacation for a while, so the project hasn't changed much. I did get some plumbing done though:

Here is the drain valve assembly using the same fill line that goes to the tank. Water will be pumped from the cabinet back through the fill line and diverted to the sump. There is an extra valve in front of the spiggot for safety reasons (not to code, I know)










The drain line from the divert valve goes directly to my sump in the basement










Here is a picture of the fill line and drain divert inside the cabinet


----------



## mulligan (Dec 30, 2006)

Here's some progress from the weekend.

finally got around to trimming out the hood









I got my fitting welded in the pressure vessle for the 1000 watt heater element. Next to the tank is the watlow controller for temp. regulation. I still need to find a thermocouple for it.









Here is a view from the top. The element sits just under the 3/4" outlet of the tank.


----------



## adamt (Oct 21, 2006)

This is insane. How bout an update? Seems like you died out around the same time I did. I pretty much stopped working on my tank setup when spring showed up. Winter time is great for working indoors. Hope you are still around


----------



## mountaindew (Jul 22, 2007)

wow mulligan how much was your watlow controller for temp. i have looked at controlers like these and they are off the scale in cost


----------



## schaadrak (Aug 18, 2006)

mountaindew said:


> wow mulligan how much was your watlow controller for temp. i have looked at controlers like these and they are off the scale in cost


Try this:

http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4877


----------

