# New planted tank setup



## wrainsberger (Jan 14, 2017)

Good morning, 
First off I would like to thank the community for being here to assist the newcomers such as myself. I have 25yrs worth of fish keeping knowledge between African cichlids, discus, saltwater and reef keeping. I was just recently approached by a good friend to assist them on setting up their first aquarium; a large planted display. Not one to shy away from a challenge I was happy to accept and have began to offer my general knowledge. Also, not being a fool I have began to conduct the required research to ensure that it turns out well in the end. 

They are looking at a large; 180g-200g planted tank. They have their hearts set on a bow front design but I believe that I have talked them out of that tank due to all of the issues with the cross braces breaking. ( I have a 72g All-Glass as proof, ) In fleshing out the details thus far we have discussed a tank that has corner overflows and will use a simple sump w/ return pump. They want a very clean look and do not want any equipment visible in the display. Using the sump with maybe one large micron sock filter to trap large particles, lava rock for biological filtration and then of course to hide all other equipment. More than likely looking at a DC pump for adjustable return speed for the best possible flow in tank, eliminating the need for any additional power heads. Having used Finnex Titanium heaters for several years, two 500w with digital thermostats would be used for temp control. 
The part that I have no experience truly with is the lighting requirements or the substrate. I have no experience with live plants unfortunately. I have been told that they would prefer LED's w/ 24hr control cycle. My experience with LED's revolves heavily around Kessil, AI and Radion all great units and I'm sure will grow plants. But are they over kill and wasting funds that could be spent elsewhere int he tank build budget? Also, just as will with a reef I'm aware of spotlighting issues with these unit or the lack of full tank coverage. In a reef I would recommend so many LED units and then fill in with X number of T5's. In speaking with them, their first thought for substrate was river stones (rock). I do not believe this is the appropriate substrate. I would like some recommendations for good substrates to utilize. 
My other chief concern, in a display this size, is whether a CO2 system will be required. I know from reading through the beginner articles that a lot of this will be determined by water chemistry (pH, KH and what the plants are using) but just in general? Of course I know that it would probably be easier if I could state what type of plants would be grown, but I can't say as they have no clue. 

Whatever suggestions or thoughts that you may be willing to provide, I would sincerely appreciate. I am continuing to read through the forum and will be doing so, I'm sure for some time. Thank you to all!


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## s2man (Nov 8, 2016)

Welcome to APC, wrainsberger. That sounds like a fun project.

There are many substrates you can use for plants: Aquasoil, Eco Complete, flourite, or even good garden soil are some options. Some can be used alone and come in different colors. Some will need to be capped with gravel or sand.

Here is a long discussion on substrates for planted tanks:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/84918-suitable-soils-walstad-method.html

It starts out discussing using organic potting sol, but hits the other soils further into it.


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Another welcome!

Sumps are not often used for planted aquaria because they can cause loss of CO2, either natural or artificially supplemented. There are ways around this, and I've seen beautiful planted tanks with sumps. Sumps are more common on large tanks, and 200g certainly qualifies!

The link s2man gives is one of several stickies in the El Natural forum devoted to the Walstad method, also called "natural planted tank" and sometimes (incorrectly) "low tech". You might want to consider this method for the project--it is an easy way to get started, and needs less maintenance in the long term.


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## wrainsberger (Jan 14, 2017)

Thank you both for the suggestions and welcome! I will be taking a look at that article for sure. For them as newbies to the hobby overall, I want to keep this as simple as possible for them and have as little maintenance as possible. When they take a look at a reef setup they cringe. Low tech sounds good for them.


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Two things about the Walstad method that beginners often miss are proper soil for the substrate, and planting densely right from the start. Both really contribute to a successful start.


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## s2man (Nov 8, 2016)

Please, Michael. Just call me s2 (Stew ; -) 

wb. I was already experienced with planted tanks (hit and miss success), but had never done a 'dirted' tank, before. I decided a soil substrate was for me on my latest tank. I have never had such explosive, luxurious plant growth! I started this tank with filters, but the more I read about the Walstad method, the more intrigued I became. Since it was already heavily planted, I finally pulled the plug and removed the filters, after a couple of weeks. That was a leap of faith for me, after 25 years of using traditional biologic filtration. But, I have had no issues with ammonium, nitrites or nitrates.

Eliminating filters will help meet your friends' criterion for no visible mechanical apparatus, though, with your use of a sump you have already eliminated most of it. On second thought, since it is a display tank, you will probably want a filter for mechanical or chemical filtration. Also, the Walstad method requires fewer water changes. So, that also helps with their desire for low maintenance. 

Michael, I don't think I have seen a good explanation why a naturally planted tank requires fewer WC than one with a biological filter system (I know, I should re-read Walstad's book). Can you you explain why?


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

In a conventional bio-filter, beneficial bacteria convert ammonia (very toxic) to nitrite (less toxic). Then another set of bacteria converts nitrite to nitrate (even less toxic, but still harmful if present in large amounts). The nitrate then accumulates in the water until it is removed by water changes.

In a Walstad tank, ammonia is absorbed quickly by the plants, leaving little to convert into nitirite and nitrate. The fish are never exposed to any of these substances. And none of these accumulates in the water because the plants actively remove all of them. Plants also remove other waste substances and toxins. And they move oxygen into the substrate, preventing anaerobic conditions and production of hydrogen sulfide (extremely toxic).

This is a gross oversimplification, but explains why frequent water changes are not needed. Of course you still must monitor conditions and take action if something goes wrong.


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## s2man (Nov 8, 2016)

Thanks, Michael. Yes, I recall Diana says plants prefer ammonia to nitrites/nitrates as it takes much less energy to absorb ammonia.

wb, there you go. A sump for mechanical/chemical fitration, and if the tank is over loaded with fish, you can easily add some bio-filtration. I like that; Heavily planted for fish waste and a filter to keep the display tank crystal clear. Of course, just my opinion. 

FWIW, I am about to do a PWC on my tank, the second in three months, then I will put in a HOB filter full of charcoal, to remove some tannins from my organic substrate (aesthetic reasons) and any medical residue from fighting an ich infestation. Flexibility is nice. 

Let us know what you decide to do and, please, keep us updated.

Edit: And lots of pic's


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## aquariumlover1 (Feb 17, 2017)

A freshwater planted aquarium is a unique and natural aquatic ecosystem you can create for your home. You should monitor the water chemistry in your tank by testing it at least once a week – this will help you to keep track of ammonia levels to make sure that your live plants and your beneficial bacteria are doing their jobs. 
Thanks for the share.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I strongly believe that the first step in setting up a new aquarium, after picking the tank you want, is to pick an appropriate light fixture. It is the light intensity that determines what almost everything else can be, from appropriate plants, to fertilizing, to CO2, to maintenance schedule, etc. If you are looking for a tank that requires a minimum of weekly maintenance, you want low light (30-40 PAR is a good range). If you are looking for the ability to grow any plant that looks good to you, and with strong reds and yellows instead of just tinted greens, you need high light (60 - 70 PAR is a good range). If you are like me, and don't mind weekly maintenance and having to use CO2, but don't want to have to worry about algae, you can use medium light (40 -50 PAR is a good range). Medium light gives you a big choice in plant species, but doesn't give you the really nice bright colors that you see in many aquascape photos. You may have to do a lot of pruning, but rarely more often than weekly, and keeping everything clean is a good idea, but not critical as it is with high light.

An advantage of using LED lights is that there is often some good data on how much PAR those lights give you for various tank heights, as well as having the ability to adjust the PAR to get the value you need, and for many of them you can program the light intensity to make the tank appearance even more interesting. Don't skimp on time when deciding which light to use.


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