# Clay



## Grizzle Fish (May 29, 2014)

Hello folks,
Can anyone help out with a recommendation for where to purchase clay for adding to my substrate for a new setup? Seems simple enough but I don't want to assume that I can just buy the first thing I come across and find out later that I poisoned my tank through ignorance. Also I am not sure if I need to get red or if white is ok as well. I know it mixes in, I just ask in case I can find white locally (more easily).

I see that Wallmart carries some but I am concerned about getting what I actually need without harmful additives. I need enough to support a 55 gallon, and perhaps a little more in case I decide to convert my other two smaller tanks to planted as well.

Thanks in advance for any pointers and suggestions.

~Grizz


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## pandragon (Jul 10, 2014)

What kind of substrate are you going for? Walstad/el natural/dirt type with mineralized top soil and a touch of clay mixed in or something else? I am not sure clay is absolutely necessary for plants, too much can make it anaerobic too. Are you looking for potters clay for the iron content or expanded/baked clay for cation exchange? Walmart special kitty cat litter in the red bag (all natural no scents or anything) is a great cheap expanded clay I used for my dirt tank.


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## TankAaron (Aug 8, 2014)

Seachem's Flourite line of substrates are clay, and meant for the planted aquarium. I have used it before, and am using it now on my only tank.


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## pandragon (Jul 10, 2014)

Isn't flourite a more expensive kind of kitty litter/safe T sorb etc? It might be a bit different in terms of grain size though or color, but it is still baked/expanded clay and totally inert with a high CEC that adsorbs a bit of ammonia and and a few other things and leaches a tiny amount of iron. 

Red pottery clay is a dry unbaked powder people use as an iron source in dirt tanks.


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## Grizzle Fish (May 29, 2014)

Hi again,
Sorry, I should have clarified. I processed some MGOC into mineralized MGOC. I have a bunch of safe T sorb ready to mix into it to kick off my first planted tank. I have done a lot of research so far.

As far as the safe T sorb, here's what's on the bag:
Consists of amorphous montmorillonite clay and crystalline silica in varying amounts (typically less than 10%).

Perhaps it does contain trace amounts of iron that they don't list in the ingredients due to the intended application, soaking up spills.

To quote AaronT's How-To: Mineralized Soil Substrate:


> Estimate how much clay you will need so that the resulting mixture of soil and clay is about 5% to 10% clay. If you prefer measurements I use about ¼ of a pound of clay per square foot of tank bottom.


From other readings I gathered that I should mix the mineralized MGOC I created 50/50 with the safe t sorb I bought. Then add in:

•	Pottery clay
•	Dolomite
•	Muriate of potash

I'm going to then cap it with Black Diamond blasting sand, basically corse black silica sand. I was just a bit uncertain about what clay to purchase. I have read that some of it sold can contain hardeners and nasty stuff like that.

~Grizz


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## Grizzle Fish (May 29, 2014)

In thinking about this a little more I realize that I am referencing two different recipes, the difference being the amount of clay material. One is directly referring to clay, the kind you would make pottery from, where the other is formulated into products like safe t sorb and kitty litter. The latter probably containing less iron I would imagine.

So unless I am wrong, at this point I would imagine that it's not even necessary for me to add any pottery clay to my current substrate mix plans, as the safe t sorb should provide the iron I need. Otherwise I can artificially add more if needed I suppose.

If you guys have any comments to make then please do.

Thanks,
~Grizz


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## TankAaron (Aug 8, 2014)

pandragon said:


> Isn't flourite a more expensive kind of kitty litter...?


oO


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## aquarium kid (Nov 26, 2012)

When I bought minded I just searched in google "RedArt clay" and bought 5 pounds of it in powder form


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## arul (Mar 11, 2014)

Hobby Lobby sells it. It's called Red Mexican Pottery Clay. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Grizzle Fish (May 29, 2014)

arul said:


> Hobby Lobby sells it. It's called Red Mexican Pottery Clay.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Seems that I read something about that clay having some harmful additives in it? In any clay you may want to purchase I would check the ingredients.

~Grizz


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## Jalopy (Sep 22, 2013)

Yeah definitely check. There are ones that can be fired in an oven that are not polymer clay that have some kind of thermal set plastic in them.


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## Fish bone (Sep 7, 2014)

I'm trying to get my arms around the mineralizing the soil too, and am confused.
Fluorite would solve the clay needs, but what is the Dolomite, Muriate of potash, deal?
Where is that found and is it really necessary?
Does Eco Complete substrate also supply the needed clay?


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## pandragon (Jul 10, 2014)

Dolimite is limestone that has magnesium in it as well. It is a natural rock that acts as a acid buffer and slowly releases Ca and Mg raising Kh and Gh. Muriate of potash is a potassium source. I used salt substitue for people on low sodium diets which is potassium chloride as a potassium source to give the plants a start until their roots get established in the soil layer. I did without the dolomite because my tap water has a Kh of 10 and Gh of 9-10 (basically all calcium carbonate) so I just used a little magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) to supply some initial Mg. I guess the necessity depends on what is in the water and soil you will be using. If your water is really soft, you might need a dolomite for a ph buffer and you can always add potassium or magnesium if the plants show deficiency by making little balls of dirt mixed with the magnesium or potassium source, freezing them, and shoving them under the cap. My top soil already had little globs of clay in it, so all I used was natural kitty litter (same as fluorite but way cheaper) for its ammonia adsorbing qualities.


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## Fish bone (Sep 7, 2014)

pandragon said:


> Dolimite is limestone that has magnesium in it as well. It is a natural rock that acts as a acid buffer and slowly releases Ca and Mg raising Kh and Gh. Muriate of potash is a potassium source. I used salt substitue for people on low sodium diets which is potassium chloride as a potassium source to give the plants a start until their roots get established in the soil layer. I did without the dolomite because my tap water has a Kh of 10 and Gh of 9-10 (basically all calcium carbonate) so I just used a little magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) to supply some initial Mg. I guess the necessity depends on what is in the water and soil you will be using. If your water is really soft, you might need a dolomite for a ph buffer and you can always add potassium or magnesium if the plants show deficiency by making little balls of dirt mixed with the magnesium or potassium source, freezing them, and shoving them under the cap. My top soil already had little globs of clay in it, so all I used was natural kitty litter (same as fluorite but way cheaper) for its ammonia adsorbing qualities.


Great explanation. Thanks.


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## pandragon (Jul 10, 2014)

your welcome!


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## Grizzle Fish (May 29, 2014)

Yes, thanks pandragon, that is indeed very helpful.

The instructions I am following to make my substrate advises sprinkling a small amount of both substances onto the bottom of the aquarium prior to laying down the substrate.

I bought a 16 oz. bottle of *KAL Dolomite powder*.
One teaspoon contains:
1,100 mg. of Calcium (as Calcium Carbonate from Dolomite Powder).
630 mg. of Magnesium (as Magnesium Carbonate from Dolomite Powder).

=======================
I also bought a 4 pound bag of *Muriate of Potash*, which is 60% K2O (Potassium oxide).

Muriate of Potash (MOP)
"Potassium chloride (commonly referred to as Muriate of Potash or MOP) is the most common potassium source used in agriculture, accounting for about 95% of all potash fertilisers used worldwide.

Its nutrient composition is approximately:
Potassium: 50%
Chloride: 46%"

MOP has a high nutrient concentration and is therefore relatively price competitive with other forms of potassium. The chloride content of MOP can also be beneficial where soil chloride is low. Recent research has shown that chloride improves yield by increasing disease resistance in crops. In circumstances where soil or irrigation water chloride levels are very high, the addition of extra chloride with MOP can cause toxicity. However, this is unlikely to be a problem, except in very dry environments, since chloride is readily removed from the soil by leaching.


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