# Looking for different MH lights for 60" tank.



## oblongshrimp (Aug 8, 2006)

I am looking for a different option to the MH pendent lights I currently have on my 120gal tank. The MH pendents I have are not very attractive and I don't have any lunar lights or CF/T-5's to use if I don't want all the power of the MH's.
Has anyone tried Outer Orbit fixtures? They are one of the few fixtures that are 60" they also have T5 lights and lunar lights....any options or other options?

https://www82.safesecureweb.com/weba...gory_Code=COOT


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## mikenas102 (Feb 8, 2006)

You should take a look at Hamilton Technology and see if something works for you. I've bought from them before. Their service was good.


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## oblongshrimp (Aug 8, 2006)

i actually have 2 of their pendent lights right now....they are just ugly and don't have any T-5's or lunar lights. The ones that they do have use CFs instead of T-5's and they dont have lunar lights. They are also more expensive the the fixture I was looking at (and don't look as nice).


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Your link doesn't work.


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

http://www.aquactinics.com/pages/MH-T5.html

^ Pricey though. Very very pricey. Totally worth it though...why MHs and not T5HOs?


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## oblongshrimp (Aug 8, 2006)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...Units_Double_Ended_MH_MH_With_T5~vendor~.html

There is a link that works

I like MHs and I haven't seen any T5HOs that would work for a 5ft (60inch) open top tank.


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## jazzlvr123 (Apr 29, 2007)

T5HO will penetrate more light to the substrate than Metal halides. You just need to accommodate the correct wattage amount for your tank If Compact fluorescents are not cutting it have you looked into HQI? They are more energy efficient that normal pennants and spread light like CFHO fixtures. Both will do a better job at spreading light more evenly and penetrating it deeper than standard metal halides. I have both HQI, metal halides and T5HO's and although T5 cant omit that Crisp White laughing that metal halides do, They are much cheaper to run all around and will spread light more evenly throughout the tank.


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## oblongshrimp (Aug 8, 2006)

I have no problem moving to HQI's I just can't find any decent fixture that is 60 inches....I don't want to go with pendents again since I can't have T5 or CF lights with it and I want an open top tank.


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## MNMarty (Nov 17, 2005)

jazzlvr123 said:


> T5HO will penetrate more light to the substrate than Metal halides. You just need to accommodate the correct wattage amount for your tank If Compact fluorescents are not cutting it have you looked into HQI? They are more energy efficient that normal pennants and spread light like CFHO fixtures. Both will do a better job at spreading light more evenly and penetrating it deeper than standard metal halides. I have both HQI, metal halides and T5HO's and although T5 cant omit that Crisp White laughing that metal halides do, They are much cheaper to run all around and will spread light more evenly throughout the tank.


Let us set a few facts straight before continuing:

1. HQI is just a brand for Double-Ended (DE) metal halides. They are no different than any other DE halide. There will be a small appreciable change in efficiency* from Single-Ended (SE) halides to DE, but there are drawbacks from each.

2. A 150W SE halide *in an appropriate reflector* will kick the CRAP** out of ANY "CFHO" (Compact Fluorescent) fixture of the same wattage, _regardless of the reflector on the CF fixture._

Why? Because the "U" shape of the CF bulbs causes significant re-strike between the bulb tubes, and even with a top-of-the-line reflector (usually an inverted, parabolic "W" shape), you will loose a significant amount of light! On the other hand, a metal halide is a Point Source light, so the only lost light is whatever light you don't get into the tank with a REFLECTOR. I'm not talking about a piece of flat sheet metal either, I mean an actual designed reflector like a Lumenarc, LumenMax, etc.

3. The T5 bulbs will SPREAD light*** at the substrate evenly, but they will not get MORE light to the substrate over the same area as the halide can cover. That is, a halide that can cover a 24 by 24 inch square region will concentrate the light in the (rough) center of the square, while a 24" T5 setup will spread the light across all of the square. There will be equal amounts of light between the two though, assuming you're using identical wattage fixtures, and the halide will not act like a spot light.

4. The depth of your tank can be *completely* disregarded when shopping for MH and T5 fixtures. You only need to worry about this if you have more than 24 inches of WATER to penetrate, and even then it is a very small loss.

5. Lastly, there is a debate brewing concerning the light spread of DE halides versus SE halides when using identical wattage systems in identical reflectors. At this point we can assume that both are equal in this regard, but if you really had to choose one or the other, a SE halide will spread the light better.

Finally, what is right for _your_ tank? Well, you have a 60", 120 gallon tank, which means it is probably 18" wide and 26" tall?
- You are correct that there are no 5 foot T5 fixtures, because T5 bulbs are only manufactured in 12" increments above 24".
- Metal Halides, SE or DE, are only good for covering square areas, even with the best of reflectors. You could light your tank VERY well with three halides, but I don't think you need three.
- It appears you want a "fixture", something to retrofit into a canopy, so your options are quite limited.
- The "HQI" halides in your current fixture are being severely hindered by the tiny reflectors they are in. Add to this that the bulbs are parallel to the length of the tank and they are covering probably a 18" long section of the tank, directly under each bulb.

Frankly, I don't think you will find a 60" fixture that you will like. I have a few recommendations:
1. Build a canopy, install two 150W SE metal halides in Lumenarc Mini reflectors. If you still want the sunrise/sunset deal, buy a few 1W LEDs, or get a 48" NO T8 bulb and put a cheap GE bulb in it, for some dim white light.
2. Build a canopy, install a 4x 48" T5 retrofit, staggering the bulbs to cover the entire tank. Same deal with "moonlights".
3. And since I know you want neither of the first two options, get a 48" fixture! My recommendation here would be a 4x 48" T5 fixture, preferably with TEK or IceCap individual reflectors. (If the fixture doesn't have a reflector for each individual bulb, its worthless. Individual reflectors are what make T5s so great.) Unless you hang the fixture, you _will_ see slightly dimmer ends, but you can use this to your advantage in aquascaping. You should have no trouble with growing plants, and in all likely hood you will have to turn off a bulb or two to keep algae at bay.

Feel free to point out any errors, or ask any questions. Then prepare for another onslaught of information. 

Cheers,
Marty

* Efficiency in terms of amperage draw at start-up and during normal operation. The DEs will likely be more efficient than SE, but nothing noticeable.
** Measured by a PAR meter, preferably. The halide may not spread light evenly, but it will certainly put out more light everywhere, than the CF.
*** Again, measured by a PAR meter. The longer the T5 bulb, the more powerful it is in terms of getting light to the substrate.


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## FacePlanted (Aug 13, 2007)

I do see in the Drs. Foster & Smith catalog that they sell 60" Outer Orbit fixtures that have 2-150w HQI bulbs and either 4-54w T-5 HO bulbs OR one with 2-130w CF bulbs. The T-5 one has 9 blue and 9 white LEDs, and the fixture with the MH/CF bulbs has 6 lunar lights. I think they are made for reefs, but switch out the CF actinics with 65K's and you'd be set. It comes with a 10K HQI bulb.
It would be a very high WPG, but you could always just raise it to the appropriate height.

I have the 24" fixture with one 150w MH and 2-65w CF bulbs and 4 LEDs. I love it b/c there are no external ballasts, 2 switches, 3 power cords, an internal fan, and hanging hardware. The fan is audible, but not obtrusive. It only comes on with the CF bulbs. It might be different for the 60" version, or the T-5 version. I have it over my 30" 29gal. tank. BUT, I have it WAY over my tank. Almost 4 feet above the substrate. I like being able to just lower the fixture if I want more intensity/light in the tank. The LEDs are pretty bright, and give a cool effect at night. I only use one of the CF bulbs, instead of 2. But I have great color in the tank. I get shimmering and shadows in the tank when both the MH and CF bulbs are on.

The drawback for me is that light POURS into the room. It lights the entire room. Its ok for me, b/c I need the extra light in the room, but that might not be ok for other people. Its overkill for my current tank, but I was tired of constantly upgrading my lights, and I can use this one if I ever get a bigger tank. Hopefully it will be the last fixture I will ever buy.  
The argument about the point source for the MH is correct. It acts more like a spotlight. But its ok for me as it is raised so high. The CF bulbs however disperse the light evenly, and the mix of the two is exactly what I want.

I'm very happy with my light setup, and it has worked for me once I figured how high I needed to hang it. It certainly isnt for everyone. I found a good deal for a brand new outer orbit on ebay, and jumped on it. It is very versatile, and I like not having to lift the canopy/lights off of the tank before I work in it. I like having the open top.

Good luck finding the appropriate fixture for you!

-Mike B-


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## oblongshrimp (Aug 8, 2006)

The lights I have now (2 Reefsun) work ok just aren't exactly what I am looking for. I am debating if I should just get rid of the tank and replace it with a 120p or some other 4ft tank.


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

Maristar by sunlight supply.
Expenxive, but not too much over the outer orbit and for light quality, I think Sunlight Supply takes it over Current.

http://www.sunlightsupply.com/produ...68F1DE0815D55349F965EF0F2B7AF&c=25&kys=&pgi=1

Keep in mind that at that same website, the Tek 4ft 4 lamp fix is listed for $331 and you can get it for about $251 shipped from the right sources on e-bay, and if they deal Tek, then they should be able to Deal Maristar and might be able to get it down closer to the $800 you are looking at.


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

Will, what are you going to do with your MH lights.
I might want one of them if the price is right and the time is right.


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

oblongshrimp said:


> The lights I have now (2 Reefsun) work ok just aren't exactly what I am looking for. I am debating if I should just get rid of the tank and replace it with a 120p or some other 4ft tank.


That LeeMar trimless tank that Jordan brought up for David was REALLY SWEET.
There is no chamfer on the edges of the glass, but other then that, it was really really nice and for only $180 (assuming that is the price he can get more of) you might do yourself well to get that and a stand and a TEK 4 foot fixture. You can almost get all of that for the price of this one light.
My 48 x 18 LeeMar stand that is for my 75 which would be the same you would use for that tank and it cost right about $220.
Think $400 for tank and stand, assume you can use the filters and co2 equip that you have going on the 120 gal, then you just need to spend about $250 for the Tek shipped and then about $60 to $90 for lights, and you are going.

And think of how good that will look in that brand new house of yours, I think you should go for it.


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## oblongshrimp (Aug 8, 2006)

those lights are only 4' or 6' and not 5 foot.


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