# pH controller settings &



## JanS (Apr 14, 2004)

Well, I'm almost ready to set up my new pressurized system (the darn tank hasn't come yet). I gave the business to a friend so he would get a commision, but he had other customers who needed one first, so they're out of tanks. 

Anyway, I decided to go with a controller, and have a question about where I should have the pH setting.
The water out of the tap is around 8, and I do about a 50% water change per week. Just how low can I set it without jolting the fish with a pH change when I do the water changes?
If it's any help, the GH is around 8 or 9, and the KH is around 6 - 7.

One other question:
Do you secure your tanks with something when they are inside the stand? I bought stuff to do it, but just wondering if it's standard practice.

Thanks!


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## MiamiAG (Jan 13, 2004)

Hi,

You can do it without impact the fish too much. Set your controller to the pH you are aiming for. I use 6.8. I then open up the needle valve only slightly so that I'm getting about 1 bubble every 2-3 seconds. Depending on the size of your aquarium and the efficiency of your CO2 delivery method, the pH will begin to decrease slowly.

In my case, this reduces the pH from 8 to 6.8 over a period of several hours. My cardinals (sensitive fish) don't mind it at all.


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## www.glass-gardens.com (Jun 3, 2004)

Hi Jan,

What size tank you have kind of determines the bubble rate you'll need over all, but since you have the controller, all you'll need to do is set it at the same pH as your tank when you start everything up and then back it down slowly to the desired pH. I run mine at 6.7 and it takes a 3/sec bubble rate into an aquamedic 500 to get it down .1 pH in about 30 minutes, but I have about as hard as water as you.


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## JanS (Apr 14, 2004)

Thanks for the help Art and Glass Gardens (I don't know what else to call you...  )
It's nice not to have to go into it by trial and error.

This tank is a 55 gallon.

Any advice on the 2nd question about securing the cylinder down?

Thanks again.


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## Troy Hendrickson (Jun 20, 2004)

here, this might better than www.blahblahblah.com,

I just leave my controller alone when I do water changes, I just add tap water adjusted for temp and a shot dechlorinator, and I add the water slowly. The pH tends to rise a bit but it's never really affected the fish, including the angels.

As for what pH to set it for, 6.7 or 6.8 should be sufficient, off the top of my head that should give you a sufficient CO2 level without affecting the fish.

For securing the CO2 cylinder, just go to a place that sells and services fire extinguishers, they should be able to sell you a clamp that will hold it securely.


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## Corigan (Mar 15, 2004)

Troy Hendrickson said:


> As for what pH to set it for, 6.7 or 6.8 should be sufficient, off the top of my head that should give you a sufficient CO2 level without affecting the fish.


I wouldn't put the controller under 6.8-6.9 depending on the KH. Jan stated in the first post that her KH is 6-7 degrees. If it is 7 degrees, 6.8 would put her at 33ppm of co2. Might be a tad bit high. If it is on the lower side of 6 though 6.8 would be perfect as it would be right around that 30ppm range mark. Of course 6.9 would put you between a co2 range of 23-29ppm depending if the kh was 6 or 7.

Matt


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## JanS (Apr 14, 2004)

Thanks again. This is extremely helpful. I'll recheck my KH and shoot for around 6.8 - 6.9 depending what reading I get this time. 

I got it up and running yesterday and said the same thing almost everyone else does - why did I wait so long to do this??  It's great! I think I'll be doing the next 2 tanks sooner than later.  

So far in the 18 hours or so it's been running, the pH is coming down at a really nice slow rate.

BTW, I thought of your name as soon as I saw it, Troy.


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