# Questions for lighting a 29 Gallon



## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

I currently have 3 lights running on my 29 gallon. I have the basic light that comes with the packages that runs 17 watts and 2 separate Coralife Aqualight T5 Series HO that run Colormax 18 watts each. So I'm running a total of 53 watts total or 1.83 WPG. I am also running a DIY CO2 setup and weekly doses of liquid fertilizer. My question is, is this enough light to grow carpeting HC? Should I sell my two Coralife lights and buy a better light setup? Also, could I just buy the clip on lights and make my own hanging setup and place CFL's that would run at 5500+ color temp? I was thinking about doing this setup with 3 lamps hanging over. Any input is greatly appreciated!


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

I don't have much experience with a 29 gallon planted tank, but hopefully another member will contribute their insight. "Bump" to the top!


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

So I got the approval from the wife to buy some new lights. I'm looking to replace everything that I have on top right now. As of now I have 2 Coralife T5's at 18 watts each and the original hood with a single T8 at 17 watts. So my question for you all is this, what should I get? I currently have a DIY CO2 setup that I change every 1.5-2 weeks. I'm trying to grow carpeting plants. I was looking at getting a dual PC light at 2x65 watts. My budget is around $150. I chose the PC lights due to the fact that there is more total watt output versus the t5HO. That and they are a lot cheaper than getting a 4 bulb T5HO setup. Looking for any suggestions! Thanks!


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Or should I just keep the 2 Coralife T5 18 watt fixtures and purchase this:

http://www.bigalsonline.com/Fish_Li...Aqualight-Deluxe-Series-Fixtures.html?tc=fish

The 30" single PC light for an extra 65 watts pumping me up to 101 watts or 3.48 wpg.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi vJEden8,

3.5 watts per gallon is a lot of light which may make keeping the aquarium "in balance" (light/CO2/Ferts) without algae outbreaks difficult.

Since my previous post I have acquired a 29 gallon that I am setting up for a nephew a as Christmas present. Since I really like the AH Supply kits and reflectors I contacted Kim (guy) at AHS and asked his recommendation. He suggested the 1X55 watt kit so "Santa" has a project to work on for Christmas! Here is was about 2 WPG with an AHS kit looks like.


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Seattle, Thanks for the quick reply! As of right now I'm running 43 watts into my 29 gallon. My HC that I have is not growing but actually dying. I'm trying to figure out something quick to try and revive it. I'm thinking I'm going to redo my tank completely in the design and get some ferts under the substrate to help assist with this. I was looking at the DIY substrate on the main page. I have 2 heaters under the gravel as I was told that the warmth will help root growth. I was also looking at the 1x55 watt kit but I'm afraid that I'm going to spend the money then have to end up buying stronger lights later. Any advice?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

I'm going to let a couple of other members chime in on HC, I haven't grown that plant. From what I have read however is HC likes *a lot* of CO2, it may be the DIY CO2 that is holding back your HC growth and not the amount of light.

I did DIY CO2 when I first started and it definitely helped my plant growth. Unfortunately it resulted in erratic CO2 levels and an overall concentration that was far less than optimum. Do you check your CO2 levels? If not, a PH and KH test kit will give a "quick and dirty" approximation of your CO2 level or you can pick up a drop checker and fill it with 4.0 dKH water and indicator solution.

The more I think about it, the more is suspect your CO2.


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Well what would be a cheaper CO2 system? I can't get anything big cause the tank is sitting on a dresser in our guest bedroom.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

The great thing about CO2 is it doesn't have to be close to the tank. You could hide the CO2 canister/regulator/needle valve in a closet and just run the clear CO2 tubing to the aquarium location. If you have Craigslist where you live, usually once a month of so you will find some ambitious beer drinker that figured making cheap beer was a great idea, realizes it's more work than they expected, and then decides to sell their equipment. I picked up a 5# CO2 tank for $40 and a regulator for $35. I added a needle valve, check valve, CO2 tubing, and fed the CO2 into the intake of my Aquaclear filter (I like the horizontal media).

While you are thinking about the CO2; tell me a little about what fertilizers you are using and what schedule and dosing levels you use. Also do you supplement your DIY CO2 with Excel?


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> While you are thinking about the CO2; tell me a little about what fertilizers you are using and what schedule and dosing levels you use. Also do you supplement your DIY CO2 with Excel?


Seattle, Thanks for the help with this! I currently use a plant substrate, don't remember what it's called. I also dose once a week with FlorinMulti Complete Multi-Nutrient with Iron and Iodine. Before I did the DIY CO2 I used the FloringAxis Bioavailable Carbon Source. Since I setup the DIY, I have stopped the liquid CO2. I'm not sure what Excel is so that's a no on the supplementation. I'm looking to do the http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/?p=vB52554 as I was told that the weekly ferts will be at a minimum if at all. I'm planning on picking up the top soil today to begin the soaking period. I also think I'm going to get rid of my lights and pick up that 55 watt bright kit from AHSupply. That way it will cut down on how many lights I have sitting on top of my tank. I was also thinking about putting in some T valves and hooking up 1 or 2 more bottles to help with the CO2 supply to test this before spending the big money on a pressurized CO2 system. I know the CO2 has helped all of my other plants as they our flourishing. It's just the HC that's not doing so well. That's why I'm assuming that it would be the light issue as the light is not fully reaching the bottom like it should. Any tips?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

So I looked up the ingredients in the FlorinMulti Complete Multi-Nutrient with Iron and Iodine. Although it may be your CO2, it appears more likely that your fertilizer is your "limiting factor". Here are the ingredients:

Potassium - Protein synthesis, water and charge balance, enzyme activation.
Boron - Chlorophyll production, flowering, root growth, cell function.
Carbon - Required for all organic compounds.
Calcium - Cell wall stability and permeability, enzyme activation, cell response to stimuli.
Chlorine - Water and charge balance, photosynthesis.
Copper - Component of enzymes utilized in redox reactions that take place during photosynthesis.
Iron - Required for photosynthesis, component of enzymes utilized in redox reactions.
Magnesium - Component of chlorophyll, enzyme activation.
Manganese - Formation of amino acids, enzyme activation.
Molybdenum and Cobalt - Required for nitrate reduction.
Nickel - Enzyme activation, processing of nitrogenous material.
Sulfur - Component of proteins and the coenzymes that are involved with nutrient utilization and growth.
Zinc - Chlorophyll production, enzyme activation.

Although this fertilizer has a lot of the micro-nutrients needed for plant growth, it is missing two of the major ones.....nitrogen and phosphorus! It does have potassium, magnesium, and calcium. Although you may want to get the pressurized CO2, while researching what you want why not address the fert problem? It will be the least expensive and easiest to correct of the aquarium parameters and you should see results in a week or two. You could try using a more "Balanced" fertilizer like Seachem Flourish Comprehensive, or you could dose some Seachem Flourish Nitrogen and Seachem Flourish Phosphorus in conjunction with your current fertilizer. Are you here in the U.S. or elsewhere?


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Seattle,

Wow, I didn't realize that I was missing that. Didn't know the complexity. I am still new to all of this. My wife and I are going to Petsmart today so I will pick up some Seachem and give that a shot. Is there no advantage using the diy substrate that I had mentioned before? Also, with the Seachem, should I be doing weekly, daily, monthly? Thanks again for all the help!


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

A DIY substrate is fine, but even it will eventually wear out and you will need to supplement with some sort of fertilization, or replace the substrate. Also, you are trying to grow a difficult plant, with med-high light, CO2, and fertilizer requirements. Might I suggest that you start reading some of the "Stickys" at the beginning of the sub-forums, especially "New to Planted Aquariums"; "Lighting"; "Fertilizing"...they will save you a lot of time, money, and frustration.


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Ok so I went out and bought a kh test kit. My levels are:

Ph=7.2
Kh= 8? It took 8 drops to change colors. Which made it 143 ppm?

None of this makes much sense to me. I was looking at a chart to compare your ph to your kh and it's saying 14.9 is in the green. Does that mean it should take 14.9 drops to change the color to how my kh? That's how I read it at least.sotha t would mean my levels are off correct? Which points to not a lighting issue but a co2 issue am I right? Looking for any advice. Thanks!


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

Looking at a typical PH/KH/CO2 chart it looks like you have about 15ppm of CO2 in your tank (subject to color read errors). 15ppm is good CO2 for most plant types, and not bad for DIY CO2. I try to run my tanks closer to 30ppm. Hopefully you picked up some ferts while shopping!


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

We got out there late so we weren't able to get any ferts. We have a trip planned tomorrow to go get some. I've hooked up a secondary CO2 bottle to try and help out the CO2 input a little better and maybe get closer to that 30 ppm. How did you calculate this? Do you happen to have a link for a good chart? Thanks!


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

Here is one of many out there; some species of fish start showing distress over 30ppm. 50ppm can cause death. I don't know if I would add the second bottle, DIY CO2 is basically uncontrolled and as such flutuates a lot and may exceed safe levels. If it were me I would leave everything the same and just deal with the fertilizer first and see what happens. When I start playing with a lot of parameters all at once I can't tell what I changed that may have given me good (or bad) results.


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## HolyAngel (Nov 3, 2010)

hey thought i'd put my 2 cents in here, it may not be much but should hopefully give you some idea's.

I do have a 29 gallon tank, and altho i haven't tried growing HC yet, I have had success with moss's(taiwan/java) and other plants (wisteria, bacopa, cabomba, dwarf/chain swords, ect)

I'm currently running 3 24" T8's @ 2x ODNO. 1 17w Flora-Sun, and 2 20W Life-Glo's bulbs. It's 57W of light before the overdrive, should be around 85.5W after including the ballast factor and whatnot. The wisteria and bacopa used to grow to the top of the tank weekly before I added the extra 2 lights and ODNO'd, now both are staying really short and growing bushy with very short internodes. The Echinodorus Tenellus when I got it was 6-7" long and now it's staying shorter than 2".

From what it sounds like, you shouldnt need to buy a new fixture at all mate. 2 T5HO's should be more than enough to grow HC in a 29 gallon. You need to replace the 2 colormax bulbs with 2 ~6500k T5HO bulbs and you should definitely see you're growth take off. Those colormax bulbs may look nice, but they're doing basically nothing for you're plants at all.

Also, you should *definitely* look into doing what Seatle_Aquarist said and start dosing you're macro nutrients (N,P,K) along with what you're dosing right now, since that just really seems to be a comprehensive/trace fert. I'm currently doing fine with no C02 with the lights I have and just dosing excel+seachem's flourish line of ferts.

Here's a pic of the current setup, please don't mind the crappy Iphone camera pic, and the messy/crowded factor, i've been waiting for the plants to grow in while i think of an aquascape. Should get the point across tho that its do-able with what you already have, just change the bulbs


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

Holyangel,

Thanks for the info! I'm currently running just standard T5's not the HO's. That's why I was looking to get new lights. So for me I have the 2 t5's and a standard t8 that comes with all tanks. I'm gonna take the advice and get some better ferts then give it a couple weeks and see where it takes me. Hopefully somewhere good!


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## TarantulaGuy (Apr 15, 2009)

I run 4x24w T5HO on my 29, 2 10k's, and 2 pink "plant bulbs" from aquamedic. I like the bulb combo. It's a decent amount of light, so you definitely would want to go pressurized C02, but IMHO its worth it for the nice growth you get. I bought this fixture in the 24" version and looovvee it. Built in dual timers, 2 LED moonlights, built in fans, all nicely packaged with only 1 power chord. Its fantastic.


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## JEden8 (Nov 11, 2010)

So I picked up the Seachem Flourish Comprehensive and put the first dose in today. I put in half a cap of it. How often should I dose? The bottle says twice a week. Also, it says to refrigerate it after opening. Does anyone actually do this?

Seattle,

I hooked up that second bottle last night before I saw your response. I checked my CO2 levels tonight around 7 and I was running 18ppm co2 according to a calculator. I'll keep checking it every other day to make sure that it doesn't jump too high. If it does then I'll disconnect it. I understand with what you're saying about doing one thing and letting it go to see if it works. I didn't think of that and as I already have it hooked up, I will just make sure to monitor it closely so that it doesn't get out of control.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi JEden8,

Just call me Roy! I would dose the Seachem per the instructions and since your tank is established twice a week should be good for starters. If the problem is nutrients, you should start seeing a noticable difference in a week or so at which time we can discussed various fert options.

The only reason I am concerned about a second bottle is the fact DIY is so "uncontrolled". My CO2 would peak about the 2-3 day and would vary greatly with temperature. Since you were already running about 15ppm I don't think the issue is CO2.


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## HolyAngel (Nov 3, 2010)

The flourish comprehensive is good, I dose 2-3x a week and do keep it refrigerated, dunno if it makes a difference really but may help it last longer. 

And yeah even just T5's are fine, I bet if you switched the colormax's to the T5 life-glo's or flora-suns you would notice a difference. 

Other than that, the other ferts you may need are iron, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. The comprehensive doesn't have enough of the macronutrients(n,p,k) by itself unless you have low light and a good fish load which you have co2 and if you switch the bulbs should put you well into the medium or maybe even low-high range for lighting..


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