# dutch style



## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

This year i want to try the dutch . 
Tank is litle small for a dutch , its 180 litre

The setup ..










After 20 days ... 









Can you tell me about the rules of the dutch ?


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

Translated by Marco Aukes:

_*Historic Background & Championship*_
Ok, before some artistic guy in Japan found it was time to turn the whole aquarium hobby upside down with his introduction of the, at that stage weird, idea that an aquascape should be inspired by nature, the Dutch ruled the aquarium scene. Well, at least where it concerned planted tanks.

Stronghold of the Dutch Aquascaping style used to be the NBAT; the Dutch Society for Aquarists. Founded in 1930, this Society started to write articles on the aquarium hobby and this was the basis from which the style originated. At its top this society consisted of over 24.000 members, but at this moment everything is broken down to less than 4.000.

From the start of the NBAT right till 1956, the publications in their magazine formed the way of thinking Dutch Aquascapers developped into their own style. In 1956 the NBAT took steps to determine general guidelines on how an 
planted tank should look like and what rules should be followed. As till today these rules, however adapted to modern ages, still are being applied to their yearly contest "Huiskeuring", which is basicly the National Aquarium Championship.

The first Huiskeuring took place in 1964, and has provided year after year grand champions who truly have shown the best of the Dutch Style i their respective years. And becoming a Grand Champion is not a piece of cake. First contestants have to win the contest of their local Aquarium Society. When they have taken this hurdle, next up is the District Championship, where The Netherlands is devided in 15 districts. Only the winners of these districts qualify for the National Championship.

Unlike the online contests that take place all over the world, the Huiskeuring actually takes place live. One qualified judge at local and district level and even two different judges at national level, go to the contestants home and judge everything: placing of the tank in the room, quality and health of livestock, choice of the livestock combination, waterparameters (and how they relate to the chosen fish and plants), health of plants, safety of the whole electrical setup and not in the least: if the layout matches the Dutch Style criteria.

_*The Hardware*_

Whilst the typical dutch tank still has an old fashioned overall look to it, it has developped away from being heated by petroleum heaters. But than again, not far from it. I personally like to tease some of the Dutch Style die-hards that a typical tank should always contain at least a decorative carpet (http://www.themacompany.nl/image/produc ... 5652.large) and some fake antique vases with plastic flowers in them on the top of the tank. Which really was a trend for some years......

In real, 95% of the Dutch Style tanks are placed inside a sturdy wood cabinet. This cabinet covers all side walls of the tank, leaving only the front side open for viewing (and thus improving the depth effect of the tank). All technical equipment is placed below the aquarium in the cabinet, where doors keep everything out of sight.

Filtration consists in most cases of one or several potfilters. Inflows and outflows (and the heaters) are always placed out of sight in the aquarium. If these are vissible in the scape, points will be deducted by the judges.

The lighting is always tucked away within the cabinets toplid and used to always consist of T8 lighting. However, with the introduction of T5 (and the more commonly availability of high demanding plants), tanks have been adapted in the last few years. However, still a lot of them work with T8 only. The judges will look if all lamps are clean (no spatters on them) and as mentioned before, if everything is installed in a safe way.

Back and side walls in the tanks are always covered with thin backgrounds, which make it easy to pin plants to it. Basic colors are brown or black. For instance the basic Juwel backgrounds are being used quite often, but also some hobbyists create their own out of EPS.

The introduction of CO2 was quite a battle for a long period of time, since a lot of the old fashioned aquarists found this was not needed and even dangerous. But again, as plants with a high demand got more and more common in the scapes, CO2 addition became almost unavoidable.

The soil is mostly sand or small gravel; in anyway no fancy colors are allowed without being subject to points reduction. In addition, the combination of Corydoras species (or any other bottom dwellers that love to stick their nose in the gravel) and non-rounded gravel (as in: not being sharp) is not allowed.

The usage of bottom fertilizer is about 60% of the hobbyists do it with and 40% without. Amongst the ones who choose to do it with bottom fertilizer, there are quite a lot of them that experiment with al kind of different fertilizers. Whilst in the early days people would just use garden soil, now combinations with clay, laterite, sand and microelements in any ratios possible are found.

The NBAT contest consists of 5 main categories:

A1, which is planted tanks where all the typical dutch style scapes take part in.

A2/A3, which is biotope tanks. A2 is for biotopes which also contain plants (such as Amazon, Asia, etc) and A3 for biotopes without or with minimum plants (such as Lake Malawi or Lake Tanganyika)

B1/B2; which are saltwater tanks. B1 is community tanks, B2 is specialty tanks (such as seahorses by example)

C1/C2; which are paludarium and terrarium. C1 is paludarium or poisondart frog tanks, c2 is specialty tanks (such as bearded dragon biotopes)

D1/D3; which are ponds. D1 being community ponds, D2 specialty ponds; such as Koi.

Each of these 5 main categories has a champion. However, the scoring on each seperate item changes within the subcatergories. As an example, the chosen animal combination in a C2 tank has a weiging factor of 6, whilst in a C1 tank this is only 3. So if a judge gives a contestant a 7 for this part of the scoring form, a contestant with a C1 scores 21 points and a C2 contestant already 42 points.

Therefore, yes; this contest promotes keeping animals (not only fish) in a good way. However, it depends on which category you participate in how much the weighing factor is for this particular part of the scoring card.

If we get back to the Dutch Style tanks, which take part in the A1 category, the scoring card looks as followes:

1. Combination of animals, factor 4
2. Health of animals, factor 4
3. Development of animals, factor 4
4. The amount of animals, factor 2
5. Choosen plants, factor 2
6. Health of plants, factor 3
7. Development of plants, factor 4
8. Water parameters, factor 2
9. General impression, factor 3
10. Chosen animals, factor 3
11. Decorative materials (including backwalls, gravel, etc), factor 5
12. Composition, factor 4
13. Technical equipment, factor 4
14. Safety, factor 4
15. Maintenace (cleaning), factor 2

The judges score 1-10 on each item. Each categorie has a total weighing factor of 50 over all the items, only the weiging per item differs. Normal scores are however between 6-8, with 8 being everything being realy good. Only in exceptional cases a score of nine will be given. Therefore when a grand champion reaches a score of 400 or even more, this is really exceptional.

By the way, the above system already shows why this kind of contest should always take place live at the contestants home. Out of the 15 items a maximum of 2 can be judged based on pictures only.

_*Inside the Dutch Style*_
Now that we know what the technical requirements are, it is time to start planting. Like everybody knows, the Dutch style is also called aquatic gardening. And for a good reason.

One of the aspects of the Dutch style is a high variety in plants, in particular in color, shape and height. But than again, not to much! As a general guideline, the rule is, for tanks up till 50cm of depth, a maximum of 1 plant species per 10cm of tank width. So a 200cm tank, should not contain much more than 20 species of plants. If the total image is still ok, 22 or 23 would be allowed, but over that will for sure cause deduction of points in any contest. Another rule to stop people from putting to much plants in, is that each group of plants should not be to close to the next one. Ideally a finger should fit between two groups.

Unlike what we see in Nature Style, the same species of plant is always put only in one place in the tank. It is not allowed to have the same species at different places in the tank. Exceptions are sometimes overhanging moss and/or Java ferns from the backwall.

The thing that works the same in Dutch Style aquariums, compared to other styles, is the usage of focus points. The Dutch Style uses the most straightforward method, deviding the tank horizontaly and verticaly into three equal parts. There where the horizontal and vertical lines meet is where the focus points should be created. But not on all four of them, only on two. If on the left the most forward is chosen, than on the right the one in the back is choosen; thus helping to create a sense of depth. On these focuspoints should the eyecathers be planted. Lotus species are often used for the forward focuspoint; a taller eyecather on the backward focus point. If the plant on the focus point could be a red one, this benefits the effect.

Typical for the Dutch Style is the planting of so called streets of plants. If somebody was asked to draw a street on a sheet of paper with a sense of depth, they would draw it broad at the bottom and becoming slimmer at the horizon. 
That is how these streets are planted as well; they start broad at the front of the tank and become more slim towards the end. A perfect planted street has a slight curve in it and optically disappears behind another group of plants. The slight increase of hight of the plants should also be taken into consideration along the path of the street. Plants often used for this are Lobelia (small form), H.corymbosa, H.Difformis, or pieces of wood fully covered with moss.

Another golden rule for the Dutch style is variation. So do not put two red plants next to each other, even orange/brown and red is a no-go. Differ with brown, red, light green and dark green in such a way that each individual group of plants comes to full expression. The same goes for variation in leaf shape (do not put two fine leaved plants next to each other or Vallisneria next to Cryptocoryne balansea) and variation in height. No two plant groups that are next to each other should be of the same height. In addition, the difference should be clear; so not a difference of 1-2 cm.

With these basic rules in mind, it than comes down to details. Leaving some small parts of the back wall visible, encourages the sense of depth. Having plants at the frontcorners of the tank that rise up to the surface, give the tank a curtain effect, enhancing the depth effect as well.

The Grand Champions make use of all these rules and combine them in most cases. As an example; a planted street that runs alongst a strong focus point works quite well. If than the focus point is a red lotus, and the planted street consists of licht green Lobelia, than has double impact. If the same group of Lobelia runs al the way to the back wall, leaving above it some bare backwall and just before the backwall "disappears" out of sight behind another group of plants....than you are on your way to mastering the Dutch Style.

First of all; using rocks and wood as decoration. The usage of these are higly restricted. The reasons for that are the same as for plants; the same thing should not appear more than once in scape. So yes, using a piece of wood or rock, covered with moss or ferns, is allowed. But do it at one place, not more.

And than there is fish. We already touched the subject in the discussion part of this topic, but I want to stress some more on it. First of all, the fish in a Dutch Style aquarium are an addition to the tank. Not the main thing. So the fish that are choosen should not be such a dominant presence that they take the attention away of the scape. The rules are furthermore not to difficult.

The basis of the livestock is a school of an attractive species that fits the tank size. As a rule, a school of fish consists of at least 12 pieces. If less fish of the school are presented to a judge; he will for sure deduct points. Ideally, the different swimiinglevels of the tank all have at least 1 group swimming there. So a bottomdwelling group, a free swimming school and surface dwellers. Additonal shrimps, algea eaters such as Otocinclus and dwarf cichlids are allowed as long as the total tank gets not to crowded (both numbers wise as optical).

So as an example, a good choise of fish would be a group of 25 rummy noses, 15 C.Sterbai, 15 hatched fish, 12 O.affinis and a harem of A.borelli.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

Thanks john ...

Some questions ... 

Above it said So a 200cm tank, should not contain much more than 20 species of plants

And back wall must be invisible?
So i have a lot of plants but smallers groups, can you tell me if this tank with all those plants is a dutch style? 
Or i must remove and leave only 20 differetn plants? 
Thanks .


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

nicpapa said:


> Thanks john ...
> 
> Some questions ...
> 
> ...


I can see this as my tanks are 48" or roughly 122 cm long. If I planted the entire bottom it would give me 662 cubic cm or 96 sq in. or for each plant species. that is an are of roughly 9 inches square for each plant. While is seems cramped for some plants like an Amazon Sword Plant it could be boring with that much area covered with some smaller plants. There is enough space there for roughly three layers of plants back mid ground and fore ground, without any one plant dominating the landscape.

On the other end of the spectrum he is saying a max of roughly 20cm per plant and there is no minimum but I would assume if you only had 6 species it would loose points.

As far as the back showing this I think is debatable. I have heard that the back and sides need to covered but I don't think it has to be with plants. It could be a painted back or some stone work, as long as it is obviously not a glass wall.

I don't think you can say your tank is or is not a Dutch tank. But for the rules of judging it is more of a question if your tank would score high or low under the Dutch judging guidelines. I can see the possibility of another judging body with different rules judging a tank much higher than another using another set of rules.

My personal opinion is to simply make the tank look in a way that it is pleasing to your own eyes. After all your the one that has to look at it every day not some judge who may have considerably different personal tastes than you do. After all many of us do not want to a patterned carpet in front or under our aquarium or have a vase on top of it.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

Here a few examples of high ranked Dutch style tanks:




























The number of species is indeed quite low. Large groups and 'streets' (lawns) are used and in between there should be a little space. So the length of the tank in cm divided by 10 is the perfect amount of plants. +/- 10-20% is no problem as long as the overall appearence isn't compromised. Double the number of species is way too crowded. Although Dutch style is generally viewed as a jungle outside Europe, the pictures above demonstrate that this isn't the case.

About the back wall. The back (and sides) should generally be covered with fake background covered with or without plants. 5% visible is no problem, but if more is visible you're advised to grow moss or Anubias or ferns onto it (as the first two pictures clearly demonstrate). 95% shouldn't be visible and most of it will be blocked with stems and plants like Hydrocotyle leucocephala etc. Even the sides as you can see, so this will create a tunnel like aquarium, only viewable from the front. Eyes drawn back into the aquarium once you reach the side.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

So if I where a judge and judging your tank, point to improve are:
- Less species, larger groups!
- Your scape is more like an island, you need high plants on the sides, all the way to the front to create the viewing box look.
- Use background or cover 100% of the sides and back with plants.

More in depth:
- There is no 'solitair', a large plant (or group) placed at the golden rule that jumps out.
- Groups next to each other should always contrast as much as possible in 1. leaf size, 2. leaf structure and 3 color (even different solors of green). This is one of the most important aspects and because the judging is done 3 times. You usually see people move around plants in between judgings to get the best composition.


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

Under my personal tastes the guide of 10cm per plant species can give end giving more plants than what I would want in most instances. So I like that +- 20% factor. with my 120 gallon tank the goal should be between 10 and 14 plants roughly. I like the way it sitting now with 
two types of Crypts
two types of Anabus
two types of Water Sprite
Jungle Val
Amazon Swords.

This is only 8 plants. and looks crowded already in my eye. I would like to add some reder plants to the tank for a bit more color contrast. 

Now as far as the sides being covered to me that rules out tanks are positioned to be viewed from more than one side. do they make exceptions in those cases or is that just a major point reduction?


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

the scoring card looks as followes:

1. Combination of animals, factor 4
2. Health of animals, factor 4
3. Development of animals, factor 4
4. The amount of animals, factor 2
5. Choosen plants, factor 2
6. Health of plants, factor 3
7. Development of plants, factor 4
8. Water parameters, factor 2
9. General impression, factor 3
10. Chosen animals, factor 3
11. Decorative materials (including backwalls, gravel, etc), factor 5
12. Composition, factor 4
13. Technical equipment, factor 4
14. Safety, factor 4
15. Maintenace (cleaning), factor 2

The judges score 1-10 on each item. Each categorie has a total weighing factor of 50 over all the items, only the weiging per item differs. Normal scores are however between 6-8, with 8 being everything being realy good. Only in exceptional cases a score of nine will be given. Therefore when a grand champion reaches a score of 400 or even more, this is really exceptional.

By the way, the above system already shows why this kind of contest should always take place live at the contestants home. Out of the 15 items a maximum of 2 can be judged based on pictures only.


I'm not sure about the point reduction, but I guess you'll loose 1 or 2


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

I see it as a lot in the discretion of the judges. This is were your comment of moving plants between judges can be important. This is probably true if you know a lot about the judges you can set up your tank for there personal preferences. 

Items like combination of animals can be very subjective. Do rarer animals boast the points? Do more colorful animals boost the points? Do animals that come from the same river or lake in nature boost the points? 

It would not surprise me if even on the top Dutch aquariums one judge might give them 380 points while another might give them 450 points, and a third might give something between the two others.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

Combination of animals is more about wheter they are compatible. No fin nippers combined with fish with long fins. Or too many dwarf cichlids for the surface area. Do the fish add to the tank or not. But of course its highly depending on the judge. Just like any photo competition. Do you like an emersed scène with cactus in it or do you want a more biotope like jungle. As soon as you enter a aquascape competition your subject to the view of the judge.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

interesting ... 
Thanks a lot Johan for the articles.. 
Nice dutch tank , but those are very big. 
Mine i can call it , like a small scaled dutch. 
The problem , is i cant remove a lot of plants from this tank, the reason is i cant find again here the plants.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

No problem! Off course you need to watch your tank, thus make it the way you like. You asked for the rules, all I did was hand them to you. I don't like all of them either so I don't compete. And there are smaller Dutch tanks, but just like the IAPLC, a larger tank is more likely to win because they're more impressive and there is more to see. Here an example of a Dutch champion from a few years back with what I believe was a 100cm tank:


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

Wow that tank is pretty. Even the wood frame around it is a set beyond what you can find in many places. And I see a hint of the vase and flower possibly sitting on top of it. 

I would agrue that too much of the judging is simply up to the judges discretion. Some of the point values should be related to hard numbers under a formula system. 

An Example is varieties of plants. Say 100 square cm per plant variety. If you hit the number on the head of say exactly 17 varieties for a tank with 1,700 square cm area you get the full 10 points. For each variety in excess or less than 17 varieties you loose 1 point. 

However if there point systems seems to work them who are we to complain. I do wonder though if there is stringent training period for judges. An example might be you need to evaluate and judge 40 tanks as a novice judge. Then your scores are compared to three seasoned judges scores. If your score disagrees with there scores by more than 2 points in any category you need to sit down and discuss it with that judge to see why your score is wrong before they can sign you off on successfully judging that tank.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

I think 80-90% of the serious compatitors have custom build tanks with wooden frames

About the judges, most of them have competed for years if not decades before becoming a judge. There is a board of judges. Every new judge need to do exams for every category. He can only judge in a category he passed his exams in (many categories outside the Dutch Style, terrarium, biotope etc.) New judges usually only judge the club and regional and the names of the judges I see for the nationals are almost always the same. For the nationals they drive for days to visit all the compatitors across the entire country (luckily smaller than most states in the US ). For the national, two judges independently judge your tank to make it even more fair. I don't think they can make it more fair (and keep it realistic), especially if hou compare it with judging some grainy photoshopped pictures


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

Here some examples:




































The more it blends in with your interior the more points


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

I personally would deduct points for having to get down on my knees to look at the tank.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

TropTrea said:


> I personally would deduct points for having to get down on my knees to look at the tank.


His couch is on the same height


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

TropTrea said:


> I personally would deduct points for having to get down on my knees to look at the tank.


haha... 
I dont like the wood frames...  
I prefer can see plants above the water,rimless tanks


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## BruceF (Aug 5, 2011)

Still with the Dutch method the hardware is unseen.


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

When I built my stand and canopy I tried to match the wood work color for the house, and the type of style used in the furniture in the main living rooms of the house. However I have it as a double with a 40 gallon on the bottom and a 120 gallon on top. 

While the 40 gallon is not planted the 120 gallon is planted. Presently with 9 varieties of plants. They would probably like to see me double the number of varieties but to fit that many types I'd have to select much smaller plants in there. 

How do they feel about using ceramic objects in the aquariums? I'm working on an idea of using ceramic Castle walls to create a stepped look with the substrate increasing in height as it moves to the background.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

An update...
Trim move and add plants...
I dont have small leaves plants wiht dark green color.
I dont like that the most green plants look the same color...
Maybe i move some again.
I am listen to any advice on moving plants...


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

This is personal opinion only some will probably agree while many may disagree.

1. It is to equally balanced. Almost like a farmers field with everything in neat rows. 

2. The lines created are to hard and straight. Working with S curve patterns will give it a softer and more natural feel.

3. The background is too bare looking creating a big empty hole. Some taller plants in the back would help.

4. blending the colors might give a softer look as well. rather than alternating red green red green go for a green, redish tint, then deep red.

For the darker green color I would consider some java fern, and for larger leaves something like Amazon Sword plants.


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## Yo-han (Oct 15, 2010)

I would keep the hard contrast in colors (that is Dutch style). The two main things it is lacking is 1. a solitaire plant at the golden rule. 1 big amazon sword or perhaps a lotus. 2. Contrast in leaf size. All plants are small leaved. For a more balanced view you need some Hygrophila or similar.

Because of the large number of species used, it is hard to not make it look like a farm field. Making the streets bend a little might work, also use some long and some short streets to make it look less artificial.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

TropTrea said:


> This is personal opinion only some will probably agree while many may disagree.
> 
> 1. It is to equally balanced. Almost like a farmers field with everything in neat rows.
> So i am a farmer too..
> ...


I add fern but its too big , for this aquarium.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

Yo-han said:


> I would keep the hard contrast in colors (that is Dutch style). The two main things it is lacking is 1. a solitaire plant at the golden rule. 1 big amazon sword or perhaps a lotus. 2. Contrast in leaf size. All plants are small leaved. For a more balanced view you need some Hygrophila or similar.
> 
> Because of the large number of species used, it is hard to not make it look like a farm field. Making the streets bend a little might work, also use some long and some short streets to make it look less artificial.


If i put big plants then i cant have space for others plants. 
Tank dimension is 100cm x 40cm x 50 cm hight.
Dutch styles require depht , in my case i have only 40 cm depth. 
Thats the reason i choose only small leaved plants. 
I wait for 2 -3 weeks to grow the plants, and then i see what plants must remove.


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

TropTrea said:


> This is personal opinion only some will probably agree while many may disagree.


If you notice my initial statement you must realize that everyone has there own personal tastes when there is art involved. What one person considers beautiful another may consider as ugly. To me the big deciding factor should be the opinion of the individual that has to look at it every day. If it looks beautiful to that person then he should not care about what other think. If he thinks it can be improved upon and wants others opinion he should realize that personal taste will send him in many different directions. But the key is to make it the best you can in your own personal eye as the person that has to live with it.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

TropTrea said:


> If you notice my initial statement you must realize that everyone has there own personal tastes when there is art involved. What one person considers beautiful another may consider as ugly. To me the big deciding factor should be the opinion of the individual that has to look at it every day. If it looks beautiful to that person then he should not care about what other think. If he thinks it can be improved upon and wants others opinion he should realize that personal taste will send him in many different directions. But the key is to make it the best you can in your own personal eye as the person that has to live with it.


Do they hurt something I wrote ? 
Ι dont speak good english...

I Know that anyoone have a diferrent opinion...


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Nicpapa, your English is so much better than my Greek! What TropTrea means is, if the tank pleases you then it is a success. You look at it everyday, and must take care of it, so your opinion is more important than anyone else's.

Compared to the first photos you posted, I think the tank does look more Dutch.


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## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

nicpapa said:


> Do they hurt something I wrote ?
> Ι dont speak good english...
> 
> I Know that anyoone have a diferrent opinion...


No you did not write anything bad.

What I'm saying is what Michael put in short and that your opinion on your tank is the most important.

Some of us will give you different suggestion but it is up to you to take the ones you think you would like and forget about those you do not like. When landscaping a tank it is 80% art and 20% science. With the art part no two people have exactly the same tastes.

Look at the great artist of world some of there styles of art are completely opposite of others. Some critics love one artist and hate another while others are just the opposite.

So relax and enjoy your tank the way you like it. If you like some of our comments act upon them. If you dislike some of them ignore them. Getting more ideas from many individuals will broaden your knowledge of things to consider but does not mean anyone is saying anything is necessarily wrong or right for your tank.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

Michael said:


> Nicpapa, your English is so much better than my Greek! What TropTrea means is, if the tank pleases you then it is a success. You look at it everyday, and must take care of it, so your opinion is more important than anyone else's.
> 
> Compared to the first photos you posted, I think the tank does look more Dutch.


Thanks Michael , i know how it works with other opinion, everyone view something diferent.


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

TropTrea said:


> No you did not write anything bad.
> 
> What I'm saying is what Michael put in short and that your opinion on your tank is the most important.
> 
> ...


haha , i take the ideas and opinion of other but only if i like and impove my image of aquarium, maybe i do the change.

You are correct....


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

Update


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## TreyLcham (Apr 28, 2015)

Looks great!!!!! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Silvering (Jun 10, 2011)

Beautiful!


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

I change it...


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## Danielc03 (Jul 1, 2012)

Beautiful! What are the plants of the 6th and 7th photo?

thanks


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## nicpapa (Dec 26, 2010)

A small video.


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