# transplanting crypts



## brad (Jul 10, 2005)

I rearranged my tank last night. I had to move my wendtii green because it had outgrown it`s current spot. When I uprooted it, I couldn`t beleive that a plant 5-6 inches high had roots over 12 inches long. Obviously I couldn`t get all 12 inches back into the substrate so I trimmed the roots to about 4-5 inches. Was that a bad move?


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## SnakeIce (May 9, 2005)

That is what I usually do when I plant or replant my crypts. I also trim about a quarter of the oldest leaves off. I have had very little melt by doing this. 

The worst that can happen is all the leaves go to mush befor it grows new leaves. I have had complete replacement of leaves but it was gradual, growing new leaves as the old melted.

I have read an account of a soil substrate tank with crypts going anoxic and everything visible dieing back. He didn't get around to doing anything with the tank and some months later the crypts started growing again.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

I've done the same Brad, with no ill effects, as long as the water params (light, co2, ferts, etc) are the same. If it goes into a tank with different params, melt city.


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## bigstick120 (Mar 8, 2005)

I also moved a few crypts around my tank with no ill effects. yeah that root system is amazing!!! I did a little trimming and a few of the leaves on my spirals melted but nothing major my wenditii is fine


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

I have a hypothesis that most of the roots don't do anything but die after transplanting, and that the plant survives by growing a new set of roots. It doesn't matter much whether I leave all the old roots on or rip them all off. The plants recover the same way.


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## Phil Edwards (Jan 22, 2004)

Like Paul, I've got a hypothesis about transplanting too. Leave it to scientists to wonder about stuff...imagine that!  

When we transplant our crypts (for emersed culture at least) we're removing most of what the plant actually uses to uptake water, the tender young root tissue. It's been proven with a number of crop species that there is a strong correlation between the root system and the amount of foliage a plant can sustain. When we remove so much of the "usable" root system what's left can't support the original foliage and it dies off. What we have left is a mass of old, reinforced roots that can't suck up much water and a couple tiny leaves that have a direct vascular connection to what usable root tissue is left. 

Likewise, what Paul says about the roots dying is likely true based on the same principle. When we transplant a crypt and remove the root system that supports that lush foliage and the foliage dies there is nothing there to provide nutrition to the mass of roots and they die. There are stored nutrients in some of the thick roots and in the rhizome, but the plant is directing those toward the more important task of growing new roots and shoots instead of maintaining old ones and they die. 

If you're repotting them for emersed culture it's healthier for the plant if the amount of decaying material in the pot is kept to a minimum. A number of root funguses and rots can get a hold of the damaged and weakened roots this way. There will always be some loss of tissue, but if it's attached to the rhizome the plant is able to solubilize and take up a lot of the nutrients stored in the tissues, making it harder for a fungus or rot to feed.

The moral of the story? Be gentle when removing your plants from the substrate or pot to maintain as much of that young root growth near the rhizome as possible. Then cut the roots to about 1.5" from the rhizome and remove all but the youngest couple leaves. That will stimulate a balanced ratio of root:shoot growth that is healthy for your plant. Doing so will greatly reduce the need for the plant to use its stored starches and will keep it in better shape in the long run.


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## HeyPK (Jan 23, 2004)

I grow many of my crypts in pots, and when I realize they are getting crowded and it is time to break up and transplant the plants, I usually find that there is a solid mass of roots and rhizomes that have become densely interwoven, and it is impossible to gently extract roots from this solid block-like mass where everything is locked together. I have tried wiggling individual plants and pulling out their roots from the mass one by one, but the roots are always so mangled by the time I have extracted them that they always die, and I might as well have just ripped the plants out and saved myself a lot of time. 

Fortunately, even small pieces of rhizome recover and root themselves given decent lighting.


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## brad (Jul 10, 2005)

Update: The plant is doing well. I lost about 5 new small leaves. The rest are looking better than ever. The top ones are straight up and looking good. Better than it was when pressed against the glass!

Thanks for the input.


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