# emersed -> submersed growth



## sketch804 (May 27, 2007)

So what do you think is the best way to assimilate a crypt that was grown emersed into a submersed environment? now i usually just plant them when i buy aquarium plants but some times they melt so i let them float for a few days and replant them. thanx


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## chad320 (Mar 30, 2010)

I usually just put them into the water and let them melt off and convert on their own. Its probably not the best method so I would like to know if other people have a different method than mine as well.


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## ferchu22 (Oct 27, 2007)

In my experience, when the emersed plant has a good size and is healthy, is start growing just after planting it in the aquarium, at least with the easy ones. Maybe it could be better if you have your emersed culture with high humidity levels.

Regards,


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## pianofish (Nov 24, 2009)

I've heard many people say that when one plants a crypt that if a leaf or leaves begin melting to prune them off, to avoid spreading. However, I think that this is not really true in that crypt melt is like a spreading disease. I (having done no aquatic plant studying or research on an experimental level) believe that crypts require such a rich nutrient based soil, that when they are removed from the soil and their roots are not well established, they lack nutrients enough to continue producing leaves and growth. Therefore in order to preserve themselves, they shed leaves and put more energy into making root systems, which would explain why often times one won't see much leaf growth for many months (even years sometimes) but when they dig them up, they have massive roots.
Most likely this has all been discussed and I'm sure there is probably a more scientific reason as to why they melt like they melt, but from my observations this is what I believe happens.
I suppose co2/air plays a big factor though in the process of shedding emersed leaves.
But if what I mentioned about the roots is true, perhaps that in the wild, where the crypts stay put "forever" their roots are sooo well established that whenever they are go from emersed to submersed during the rainy seasons, perhaps they are able to more quickly shed and "releaf" because of such strong roots.

If so I'm not sure how one could replicate this other than plant them and let do, what will let do.

Just a thought,
Pianofish


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## kerokero (May 4, 2009)

> I've heard many people say that when one plants a crypt that if a leaf or leaves begin melting to prune them off, to avoid spreading. However, I think that this is not really true in that crypt melt is like a spreading disease.


This I totally go for, it's a normal thing with the plants, and it seems that some species/varieties are pretty consistent with their melt rates. Some people associate this with poor health because in certain plants if this happens it IS a sign of disease... but there are plenty of other plants that will die back to their rhizomes (or similar structures) when put into new conditions - or if really temperamental, when they are repotted.



> I (having done no aquatic plant studying or research on an experimental level) believe that crypts require such a rich nutrient based soil, that when they are removed from the soil and their roots are not well established, they lack nutrients enough to continue producing leaves and growth. Therefore in order to preserve themselves, they shed leaves and put more energy into making root systems, which would explain why often times one won't see much leaf growth for many months (even years sometimes) but when they dig them up, they have massive roots.


I can't say all of this is wrong, but I think it may be taking a characteristic of the plant (massive roots) and applying it the wrong way. I'd probably agree with you if I didn't run into effectively the same issue with a number of tropical plants I work with when they experience a significant change in humidity... and isn't going from water to air and back again really just an extreme case of that? 

In tropical tanks (terrariums/vivariums) there are a couple of plants known for having similar melt issues, primarily peperomia, begonia, and some gesneriads. You change the humidity significantly higher, and leaves adapted to lower humidity may rot out. Leaves from higher humidity will often completely wilt. A number of these plants just drop everything and start over, some of which can take _months_ before they come back (sound familiar?). There often seems to be a correlation between how long it takes to come back, and how expensive it is - the more $$$, the longer it takes :frusty:

I think the better nutrient build up the plant had access to before the change, how much it can store, and how much it has access to in it's new home may play a role in speeding up or slowing down the come back (basically what you are mentioning), but to some degree it's also dependent on the species/variety. How sudden the change it may also play a role... some species have a gradual change in the wild, never a dramatic change, while others may be on land one day, and flooded the next. I've had some tropical plants that normally would drop everything have minimal leaf drops when changed over very gradually... that may be key for species that spend a long time before they come back - old leaves can power the growth of new leaves.

As per the original question, I typically float them to see if they will rot out, then plant them after a couple weeks, typically giving them a good root trim while I'm at it. I've also heard it recommended to take all but the 3 or so newest (most central) leaves off, but I think that varies with plant on if you need to do that or not.


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