# Water Change System



## Brilliant (Jun 25, 2006)

I am setting up my water change system. I plan on adding a diagram of the system later...for now its in my head but I will try my best to explain it. Please tell me if you forsee any potential problems. Ask if you have any questions. Thank you.

Not required but here is my 6 stage RO/DI. More or less 4 stages with 6 canisters. My softwater planted tanks can use tap water filtered with just the sediment and carbon filters. Rated at 100GPD but it really only produces an estimated 87.27 gallons per day...

Picture 1: Water filter

Don't be silly and use a water filter without a controller. A simple on/off solenoid and timer will do the trick. Auto shut-off valves fail. Float valves are needed but allow water to continue flowing even if the Brute is filled. Then you can sleep at night knowing you will not overflow...

I plan on adding the sump watcher to further automate the water collection system and eliminate the use of the timer.

Picture 2: Water controller

The 44g Brute! Every discus owner should have one...

Picture 3: Rubbermaid Brute!

The Rio pumps have proved themselves to me so I selected this 1700 for refills.

Picture 4: Taam Rio 1700

Plenty of hose from 50ft python kit. I could use some of the extra parts so I just ordered this.

Picture 5: Plenty of hose for plumbing

Fill up... Check valve connected to T barb. I plan on using this to hold back syphon but allow to fill. I could use two check valves!?!

Picture 6: Fill component

Drain... Two way control valve with 120v switch. When I click the button the valve opens then kicks on drain pump. I plan on using an Eheim hobby pump for the drain...

Picture 7: Drain component

3way valve to automatically divert water where I need it.

Picture 8: Optional valve

Last but not least the keys! This allows me to control the system via remote control. The drain control valve is on channel 1 and fill pump on channel 2.

Press 1 ON to begin water drain
Press 1 OFF to stop water drain
Press 2 ON to begin water fill
Press 2 OFF to stop water fill

Picture 9: The keys!

One day I hope to fully automate the system. For now the plan is semi-automatic.


----------



## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

Provide overflow protection.

Looks good so far. I want to see how it progresses.


----------



## Brilliant (Jun 25, 2006)

Thanks JERP!

Overflow protection on the aquarium? Thinking....I can use a float switch that will kill power to the fill pump circuit and or close a valve. I was also thinking about using a sump watcher on the aquarium to control fill circuit but think that will bother the discus. I was hoping I could fully automate it eventually with proper drain/fill timing. 

What can you tell me about stagnant water? I saw your post in Hoppy's thread. How long until this unchlorinated/filtered water goes stagnant in the hose? Thats one of the only things what worries me. Thank you for your input


----------



## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

I had a 2-3' section of hose connected to a simple hose "T" at my filter input that I used for emptying and filling the tank. There was a valve upstream and inline between the T and the tank outlet. To drain the tank, I closed the inline valve, opened the valve at the end of the hose section, and turned off the filter. The water then back-flushed the cannister filter into a bucket. To fill the tank, I filled the bucket with fresh water and turned on the filter. The filter then drained the bucket into the tank. 

The stagnant water problem occurred because I didn't make a water change, or stopped using that method. The water sat in the 2-3 section of hose for a couple months and went anaerobic. I topped of the tank one day after the water went bad and my house smelled like the sewer backed up into my fish tank. The algae seemed to be very happy with all the extra sulfer. The fish went into shock, but none died. Your discus wouldn't like it one bit.

Lesson learned. Leave no path in the plumbing that leaves water in it for extended periods, or at least make sure that path neer leads into the tank.


----------



## Brilliant (Jun 25, 2006)

Alright...months...whew. I think I will be changing water once a week or twice a month. The fill system will have pristine water nothing else.

I will run the storage tank dry. My concern was that running it dry would cause some air in the line and make the water stagnant.

Come to think of it I let my storage water sit for a few days and do anywhere up to 40g change on my standard 90g. For some reason I thought the water in the hose would go bad quicker.

I should have the entire thing setup soon. Maybe next weekend. I will report back. Thank you for your input.


----------



## Dr. Tankenstein (Oct 28, 2006)

Brilliant,
It looks like you're definitely on your way to a well planned system. One question, where did you get the check valve from Picture 6?

Thanks!


----------



## Brilliant (Jun 25, 2006)

Thanks Doc!

Most of the parts come from US Plastics. Like the tube fittings.
Here is the specsheet on the check valve.

I used 3/4 inch for all parts.


----------



## Brilliant (Jun 25, 2006)

If anyone is interested in the control valves message me soon or forever hold your peace.

Its 120v on/off control with spring fail-safe. Couple different sizes available.


----------

