# [Wet Thumb Forum]-New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction - Updated 20030318



## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Moved from the old board;

New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction - Updated 20021216

Please forgive me if the pics are some what jumbled.

James Hoftiezer

[This message was edited by JamesHoftiezer on Wed April 16 2003 at 09:51 AM.]


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

James Hoftiezer


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

James, can you post an image of your current CO2 setup for me.

This may turn into a discussion as I just ordered my tank from glasscages. In concept, my plumbing design will very closely mimic yours.

In particular, I am interested in the parts required and the design of your DIY reactor as I want to do something VERY similar to what you did. I am also very interested in learning how everything was plumbed together. How did you connect the needle vale to your reactor?

Actully, it goes:
needle valve->bubble counter->reactor
Correct?

Thanks,
Karl

*UPDATE:*
Some times I just giggle.
I just went to google and did this search.

The first link was to this article by Ghazanfar Ghori. I'm currently reading it.

[This message was edited by kherman on Thu June 05 2003 at 08:54 AM.]

[This message was edited by kherman on Thu June 05 2003 at 09:13 AM.]


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I'll have everything updated and reposted this weekend.

Here's the old thread;
DIY - CO2 Reactor

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

James,

Thanks for giving me that link. I knewI saw it somewhere before. If I have any specific questions on the reactor, I'll ask them over in the other thread









Can't wait to see the updated pics!!!

Karl

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

What kind of barb did you get? I can only find barbs with a huge opening at the end (almost like the venturi pipe return. What I need is the kind of barbs you have in the pictures.

How can I tell if the pipes are food grade (non toxic) from just looking at them?

I think you posted the first couple answers somewhere before.

75 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Personally I ordered these barbs from www.USPlastics.com
Some of these sizes are available at your local hardware store, but ISPlastics has all the sizes. For instance I couldn't find 5/8"(barb)x3/4"(thread). Per barb they are also the cheapest, but with shipping would get some extra stuff to justify the order.

Black High Density Polyethylene Tube Fittings(for all your plumbing needs)
Accurately Measures And Dispenses(best way to do DIY ferts)
Cobra Plastic Pipe Clips For PVC, CPVC, ABS, PVDF, PE, PB, PP Piping(for hanging that reactor)
Clear Reinforced PVC Tubing Polyester Braid(great co2 line)
Clear Reinforced PVC Tubing Polyester Braid(Great no-kink water lines)
Natural Or Black Spiral Wrap(organizing your wire and water lines)
Mounting Bases(Mounting anything)
Nylon Plastic Ties(who can't use more ty-wraps)

As for hose and pipe, any PVC pipe that is used for household water will be good. This extends to the glues used to join them.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*

[This message was edited by JamesHoftiezer on Sat June 07 2003 at 03:45 AM.]


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

oops, I was referfing to the black knob(barb?)at the end of the pipes (inside the tank) and not the ones below the tank.

75 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

EDGE,

I think you are looking for the bulkhead screens

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

UPDATE:
*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about (err umm) weeks(July mhopefully). Pics coming XXXsoonXXX late







*


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

Thanks, thats what I was looking for

75 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

There ya go.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

Are underground water sprinkler parts fish safe? I was looking at home depot and may need some sprinkler parts to connect everything together.

75 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

They should be. Most are just black PVC. They are commonly used in vivarium misting systems.

Just curious ... which parts will be from sprikler systems?

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

2 side male threading and 3/4" the barbs. They are mainly use to connect the T pipes to the ball valves.

I can't find any white pvc with 2 male threading or the barbs at home depot.

The sprinkler parts at the store are gray.

75 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

"I can't find any white pvc with 2 male threading or the barbs at home depot."

You have to buy regular PVC tubing (the long pieces). Cut them to size and glue hreaded attachemnts on with cement. They should be in the bins near the elbows, Ts, etc.

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Depending on what's you're doing, PVC pipe always comes bare, then you glue on threaded adapters, etc.

Kherman may have caught something I missed. I though you were just after a male to male adapter.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

the T pipe and ball valve are both threaded on the inside.

75 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## Jack11 (Mar 30, 2004)

James,
What size of barb did you use for your inlet jets. I read the discussion between you and Phil regarding the importance of having these be smaller than the diameter of your returns. I've been using 3/4" everything for my 75 so, I guess I'd need like 1/2" jets? Also, how's the 1" CO2 reactor prototype? Sounds like what I was looking to use for my 37 gallon.
Jack

Hmm...Something clever, funny, and contemplative...
Ahh, @*#%!...Yeah, that's it!


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I have the parts for the 1". I'll see if I can put it together tonight.
Testing is another matter.

On the inlets I have 1" PVC from two prefilters going into a tee then through the bulkhead. After the bulkhead I have a 1" PVC 'christmas tree'. This goes into 3/4" adapters and 5/8" barbs for the filter hoses.

In my tank I used 1" PVC inside the tank to the outlets which use 3/4" adapters with 1/4" and 3/4" barbs.

You can increase/decrease the size of the outlet barbs to increase/decrease the velocity of the water. It will not change the gpm significantly but will decide the spedd and force of the current created.

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## Jack11 (Mar 30, 2004)

James,
On your outlet jets. Do you use a 1/4" barb on the outlet closes to where the water enters your tank from the filter and a 3/4" barb on the end of the pipe farthest from where the water enters from the filter? Thanks.
Jack

Hmm...Something clever, funny, and contemplative...
Ahh, @*#%!...Yeah, that's it!


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

from filters, through bulkhead then 4 outlets.
In order they are 1/4", 1/4" 1/4" and 3/4".

I'm sorry I don't have pictures, but if you look at the early plumbing I added some outlets to the arm. The first 3 are 1/4" and the last is 3/4". The idea was to creat some current behind the cork wall.

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## Kim (Aug 1, 2003)

James is that a DIY stand?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Welcome Kim. Good to have you on the boards









The tank is custom and the stand is DIY. The stand is MDF and metal work bench legs. 
To make the top I glued/bonded two pieces of 3/4" MDF together. Then routed the edges and drilled the needed holes. The bottom is a third piece of MDF.
I then ordered four work bench legs from my local industrial supply. You could easiy get by with just two as they are rated at 4000lb per set, but I was a newbie and paranoid. One set is $30 wide and the other set is 36" wide. They cost $40/pair.
I then used losts of 1/4" bolts to secure the top and bottom to the legs. The sides and front are just facade. They bear no weight and are just held in place with clips. If I ever have to move, I can have the entire stand apart in ten minutes and back together in 20.

The stand is ROCK SOLID. It does not move, shimmer or rock. You can bump against or even stand on the edges with no problem.

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Jame's stand could probably hold a full size SUV. That's not a joke either. It's more of a complement.

His stand is the Official Mack Truck of aquabotanic









------------------------------
Karl's Parts And Construction Journal


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

*ALL Compliments and other positive motivational comments accepted !!*

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## Em\'sDad (Jul 31, 2003)

James 

A very basic "newbie" type question.....

Please could you give a basic explanation of the pumbing on the inside of the tank as it was designed and set-up. I don't need a technical explanation (materials etc.) - just what's what!

Thanks,

Roger


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## Kim (Aug 1, 2003)

Thanks James







Your setup is WOW!


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Here's the run down;









On the left you can see the two PVC 'Christmas Trees' that are the outlet and inlet in that order.

One of the inlets goes to the Eheim 2228 on the right which then feeds into the CO2 reactor in the center top.

The other inlet goes to the 2028 on the left whcih then feeds into the black turbo twist UV sterilizer then back into the outlets.

All of the green hose is Eheim 22mm which is long enough to pull the filters outside the stand. In the near future I will shorten these.

On the right is the 10lb CO2 tank which feeds into the regulator then by hose to the bubble counter, then into the reactor.

In the very top, you can see the three ballasts for the power compact lights. Each ballast powers 2x55w.









Left of the trees you can see the drain line coming from the first bulkhead. This is the 'overflow' used for automatic water changes.

In the center of the picture you can see the workbench legs and how the sides are clipped in place.

The bright green object is a Milwaukee SM122 ph Controller which turns the CO2 on and off at certain pH points.

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## imported_molahs4 (Feb 3, 2003)

James,

I know you discussed your lighting situation in several other threads. I am going to dump my JBJ 4x55 fixture and DIY a hood with more light and a moonlight. If you were to do your hood all over again, what would you do? And if you would make it exactly the same, what hood design did you use?

I have a 90 gallon, and I am planning on getting an AHsupply 6x55 kit and either 1 or 2 of the 13watt moonlights. I know that heat is an issue, as well as access to a deep tank. If the hood is too tall it makes it very difficult to get to the substrate. How did/would you handle these problems?

Also, the link to the archive of your parts and construction doesn't work anymore.

Thanks for all of your help.

tank specs and bad pictures


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## imported_csf (May 8, 2003)

I'm using a 4x55 kit for a 75 and I know others who are using a 2x96 for a 90. You could get by with less than the 6x55 and then just add another 2x55 later if you really think you need more.

The good reflectors and HO system in general won't be any issue in terms of getting light to the bottom.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

sorry its taken forever but work has been a bear. I've removed the archive links from my signature but older posts will still have it.

If I were to do my hood all over:
1) make sure and work in exhaust fans
2) make it a little deeper
3) leave room for a MH

In my next hood (things to try but not wrong in the first one);
1) try sheet metal
2) use LEDs instead of 13w PC
3) suspend the hood

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Rate My Tank!!

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive(No Longer Active))
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive(No Longer Active))*


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## gerritn (Dec 20, 2003)

James,

Questions related to UV sterilizer:

- it looks like you run it in parallel with your CO2 reactor, is that correct? is there a reason for that (why didn't you put it in series with the reactor for instance?)
- do you run it constantly, 24/7?
- I have my planted tank up & running for 2 months now, and have a bad attack of green water, would you recommend a UV sterilizer for that, or do you use it for another reason?

Gerrit


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I use it for two reasons;
a) alage control
b) disease prevention

I run it in parallel because I have two canister filters. One powers the UV and one the CO2 reactor. Before I got the second canister it was all in series.

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Rate My Tank!!

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive(No Longer Active))
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive(No Longer Active))*


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## cheesehazard (Mar 2, 2004)

In this picture http://130.94.151.207/jameshoftiezer/hood_02_small.jpg is that flourish excel to the right of the tank? If so where do you get such a larga container of it?

55 gallon planted in the works
55 gallon oscar tank
10 gallon shrimp tank


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## Overfloater (Apr 2, 2004)

That's most likely not Excel and probably regular Flourish. Using Excel on a large tank is not effective and I believe James runs compressed CO2 anyway. I'm not sure where James got his FLourish but here is a 2 liter jug. 
Big Al's 2 liter of Flourish

With such a large tank as James has, you need lots of fertilizer.

Bob

Los Dios De Verde


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

It is Flourish. I got it from DrsFosterSmith on sale a while ago. I use all DIY ferts now and have run compressed CO2 since I started the tank.

*James Hoftiezer
Hoftiezer.Net - Journals and Libraries
Rate My Tank!!

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive(No Longer Active))
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive(No Longer Active))*


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