# Fertilizing with an ADA Aquasoil setup...



## muddyfox (Mar 3, 2006)

Hi,

I've just set up my first fully planted tank. I followed Tom Barr's advice to use ADA Aquasoil over mulm and peat although I only put in a little bit of peat because I was worried about it coming up to the surface (probably just a silly fear borne of my considerable inexperience). I originally planned not to use any active carbon because I heard that that can deplete nutrients from the water column. However, the supposedly pre-soaked bogwood I put in is leeching tannins at an alarming rate so I've pulled it out to soak it in a bucket for a few weeks. I'm now left with tannin coloured water. I've been thinking about what I might do.

My current plant is to swap an active carbon layer into my filter and run it for 24-48 hours like that to pull out the tannins (hopefully). Then swap the non- carbon insert back in and fertilize with a liquid fertilizer of some sort to replace what was lost.

Would this work - or is there, perhaps a better way? (I am reluctant to do a big water change because the ADA will cloud the tank up again, but maybe that's something which has to be lived with.)


Also, it occurs to me while looking at different fertilizers for this plan that I should really be fertilizing anyway but advice seems to vary, especially in the first few weeks of a setup. If anyone can give me some pointers more generally on fertilizing with this ADA setup that would be great.

Thanks in advance,

Muddy


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## random_alias (Nov 7, 2005)

I say fertilize from day 1, if only a little less quantity than normal until the plants get going. Don't ever leave them with nothing.

What size is the tank? Will the driftwood fit in a pot? If so, boil it for 20-30 minutes to speed things up. If the tank is not large, I'd do a partial water change to reduce the tannin level and then do another partial water change later. I think it's best to do water changes more often in a new setup anyway. If nothing else, it keeps you up on the maintenance and removal of little neusences that would otherwise be neglected and allowed to build up to cause problems (read: little spec of algae, some diatom buildup on leaves, etc). It's important to really stay on top of things when a tank is settling in. Changes can happen quickly, anything that isn't a plant can gain momentum easily and then when you have to take extreme measures it's even tougher on the poor new plants. The extra boost of Co2 that water changes provide wouldn't hurt things either.

The ADA soil shouldn't do much clouding the tank past perhaps the second or third water change. If you use a plate or lid held just above the water surface to disperse the flow, your water changes shouldn't disturb the substrate at all, especially if you are doing partial water changes and not dropping the water level down to substrate level. If your water changes are disturbing the substrate, you're working too fast. Slow down. After time, the Aquasoil will settle and not be so easily disturbed.

What fertilizers are you using? What is your lighting, Co2, GH and KH, kind of plants, amount of plants, etc etc. What's the PO4 and NO3 readings of your tap? Are you using tap?


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## muddyfox (Mar 3, 2006)

random_alias said:


> I say fertilize from day 1, if only a little less quantity than normal until the plants get going. Don't ever leave them with nothing.
> 
> What size is the tank? Will the driftwood fit in a pot?


The tank is 24" by 12" by 15". The drift wood won't fit in a pot but it does fit nicely in a bucket so I boiled up three pots of water and poured that on - the water looked like very strong tea in minutes! Once it had cooled I changed the water adn left it to soak in a new bucket-full over-night. I will do the boiling water thing again each day until the tannin leakage slows down a bit.



random_alias said:


> If the tank is not large, I'd do a partial water change to reduce the tannin level and then do another partial water change later.


With a 2ft tank I can easily do a partial water change. I'll do that, with maybe a larger waterchange tomorrow to get a good start and then a few lesser changes every other day to clear it.



random_alias said:


> I think it's best to do water changes more often in a new setup anyway. If nothing else, it keeps you up on the maintenance and removal of little neusences that would otherwise be neglected and allowed to build up to cause problems (read: little spec of algae, some diatom buildup on leaves, etc). It's important to really stay on top of things when a tank is settling in. Changes can happen quickly, anything that isn't a plant can gain momentum easily and then when you have to take extreme measures it's even tougher on the poor new plants. The extra boost of Co2 that water changes provide wouldn't hurt things either.
> 
> The ADA soil shouldn't do much clouding the tank past perhaps the second or third water change. If you use a plate or lid held just above the water surface to disperse the flow, your water changes shouldn't disturb the substrate at all, especially if you are doing partial water changes and not dropping the water level down to substrate level. If your water changes are disturbing the substrate, you're working too fast. Slow down. After time, the Aquasoil will settle and not be so easily disturbed.


That's good news - I was surprised how cloudy it got when I first set it up.



random_alias said:


> What fertilizers are you using? What is your lighting, Co2, GH and KH, kind of plants, amount of plants, etc etc. What's the PO4 and NO3 readings of your tap? Are you using tap?


I haven't added any fertilizers yet. The only one I've got is a JBL trace elements and iron which I use in my other tank. I'm guessing I should add some macro nutrients too. I don't know much about that except that KNO3 is good. Can you recommend a good regime that would complement the aquasoil?

In terms of other tank parameters I've got DIY CO2, 55 watts of compact T5 Daylight (with reflector). I am using the tap and the NO3 is between 10 and 20 ppm (it varies form day to day). I have no test for PO4 so I don't know that one.

Thanks for your help and advice - it's very much appreciated.

Muddy


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

If you are using the Powersand in conjunction with the Aquasoil you will not need to fertilize anything for about 3 weeks. After that start dosing moderately and increase as you see necessary.


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## Krisybabe9 (Mar 21, 2006)

When it's time to dose, I am a big fan of the ADA Green Brighty Step series (1-3). I have had great results with it. Here is a link to look at it:
http://shop.aquariumdesigngroup.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23&osCsid=355ad12f56645017d80c8a1670a63c99


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## random_alias (Nov 7, 2005)

There is also this:

http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1

Lots of choices I suppose.


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## muddyfox (Mar 3, 2006)

AaronT said:


> If you are using the Powersand in conjunction with the Aquasoil you will not need to fertilize anything for about 3 weeks. After that start dosing moderately and increase as you see necessary.


No, I've got no powersand. I used a layer of mulm and peat under the aquasoil. When I ordered the substrate I hadn't really understood the function of powersand.

Thanks anyway,

Muddy


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## muddyfox (Mar 3, 2006)

Krisybabe9 said:


> When it's time to dose, I am a big fan of the ADA Green Brighty Step series (1-3). I have had great results with it. Here is a link to look at it:
> http://shop.aquariumdesigngroup.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23&osCsid=355ad12f56645017d80c8a1670a63c99


Thanks -I looked these up - they seem to be really good. I like the staged process allowing the nurtrient supply to keep pace with the establishment/development of the plants. I might follow that model anyway, if I don't get the Step Series itself (it's quite expensive over here).

Thanks again,

Muddy


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## muddyfox (Mar 3, 2006)

random_alias said:


> There is also this:
> 
> http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1
> 
> Lots of choices I suppose.


Absolutely. I kind of thought it would be a simple case of buying a bottle of stuff and putting the right amount in the tank at the right interval. LOL. There is so much to think about and learn. I'm going to have to look much more carefully at all of this. (Which is great because I love doing the research part of this hobby.) I will have a good close look at the Barr Report pages - some really good stuff there I think.

Thanks,

Muddy


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

What is the difference between NO3 from PS and the NO3 from KNO3?
What's the difference between the Step 1 Fe and the Fe from any number of brands or generic mixes?

None.
The difference is not the liquid ferts.
The difference is the ADA Soil.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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