# Working with glass... cutting grinding etc.



## RestlessCrow (Nov 5, 2009)

So far, everyone on here has been a tremendous help to me with my current project and I appreciate it.

I appreciate it, and want to give back. It just so happens that I work with glass, but not in the usual manner. My specialty is cutting grinding, modifying any and all types. This weekend I fixed a sixteenth century drinking glass. (think 1500's. I would have had a heart attack if the lady told me how old it was.)

I've read a few threads here and replied to them, but I figured I would post a few tips for anyone considering modifying their tanks.

Glass CAN be drilled but it is not the same as drilling wood. When you put a drill bit into a piece of wood, it "cuts" it's way through. When you "Drill" glass, you are actually grinding a hole in it. The SINGLE most important thing when doing this, is to keep the work COOL by dripping water on it, or actually doing the drilling/grinding submersed in water somehow. I HAVE drilled tempered glass, but I will tell you right here and now. I only got away with it because no one told me I couldn't. I guess I got lucky.  The imperative thing is to keep things from heating up. If they do.... "KABLEWEY!"

There are "bonding agents" out there that are unbelievable as far as the strength that they have, but are way beyond the average person's capabilities. What I use in my line of work is something similar to what a Dentist uses to bond caps and stuff on your teeth. I apply the bonding agent, position the pieces, and then stick it under and extremely high output UV light that cures the bonding agent. It is a regular thing for me to have the bonding agent be stronger than the glass itself. (I know because I've had pieces slip out of position when putting them under the UV light and tried to break them apart, only to have the glass break next to the bonded joint)

With the proper knowlege and access to the right equipment, you can work glass almost exactly like you work wood using the same basic principals. A lot of them ARE within you DIY'ers capabilities, but you just don't know it. I would love to volunteer to answer any questions you guys might have, and I KNOW you have questions I never have even thought about. :idea: Thanks again for all of YOUR help. Now it's my turn.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Restless,

The information about the UV bonding is very interesting. I don't think I've ever heard of tanks made or repaired that way. 

So here are a few questions:

1. Is the UV sensitive compound expensive?
To make an entire tank you are going to need quite a bit. If the price is too high silicone will always be the choice.

2. Is the compound easy to get?
Special suppliers? Sold retail? 

3. Do you think that the soft, pliable silicone actually has advantages as a bonding agent for 5 pieces of glass that will twist and bend a little when the tank is full?

Another question - often people ask about removing a scratch from glass. What do you suggest could be done? To my knowledge progressive sanding with finer and finer sandpaper would do the trick but I guess the sandpaper needs to be diamond. Is the glass going to have any distortion after succesfully getting rid of the scratch?

--Nikolay


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## RestlessCrow (Nov 5, 2009)

niko said:


> Restless,
> 
> The information about the UV bonding is very interesting. I don't think I've ever heard of tanks made or repaired that way.
> 
> ...


Hey Niko!

1:The UV bonding agent IS expensive. A 1oz bottle costs approx $45 dollars. (but that is the cheap part! LOL) The UV light required is the expensive part. Here is a link to the light required. ($495) http://www.tedpella.com/tools_html/uvlamp.htm I would suggest silicone for many reasons, including ones you have suggested. As a "FYI".... I use two grades of the bonding agent. One that is thick as molasses for bonding parts directly together, and one that is very very thin, for penetrating and sealing cracks. I used the thin one on my tank to stabilize a crack in the corner of the bottom panel, and then added a plate of glass over the crack and siliconed it in place.

2: It's fairly easy to get but it's not the type of thing you can just walk into the store and order. The same with the light used to cure it.

3: I would have concerns about building anything with it larger than a five gallon tank due to the stresses you mentioned. Flexible Silicone would be a better option. Another issue, would be that if you build a tank with this method, (Which is not impossible) you would need your glass cut to absolutely EXACT tolerances as the bonding agent can not fill gaps. There needs to be "glass to glass contact". You would also want to rough up the glass in the bonding area a tad to increase adhesion which would be tricky but not impossible. (I would prefer to see this for something such as a tank that would be subject to "high stress") Here is an example of a "low stress" bond that I have done. It is made from an actual Corona bottle, the handle was made separately and then bonded on:










I could see this technology being used to bond a sump to a tank or something similar to that. You could also probably make some really cool Nano tanks. (I'd be willing to try!  )

4am this morning I woke up with a crazy idea: I'm currently in the process of building a new hood for the top of my tank and got the idea of building a cantilever style "lift" to get it up and off the tank for maintenance. Kind of like a fishing tackle box, when you open the lid, the trays inside work off parallel arms that lift them and keep them level. I went to bed trying to figure a way to attach the arms, and I remember somewhere that you can actually bond metal using this stuff, so I may turn down a couple pieces of Aluminum and bond them to the OUTSIDE of the tank to attatch the lift arms to. I'll have to make a mock up of this to prove the concept and do some strength testing on the bond of the Aluminum. I'll keep you posted.

Now.... as far as scratch removal goes.... this is always a sticky one. It IS possible to remove the scratches. As my old Metal Shop teacher used to say "If it was made by man... it can be FIXED by man" It's more of a "SHOULD" it be done. Most of my abrasives I use are diamond based. You can also use aluminum oxide based abrasives. I have used both, and I use the diamond abrasives because they run cooler and last longer. (I use the Aluminum Oxide when the wallet is a little thin too LOL)

The problem with scratches on FLAT panels of glass is that the only way to remove them is to grind down through them, and then restore the glass to a polish. On a flat panel, to keep it optically correct, you would have to grind the ENTIRE surface down past the scratches, and then polish back to a shine. If you were to abrade the area where the scratch was, and then polish it, it would cause a "Lens effect". One only has to look at a pair of bifocal eyeglasses to see the effect of changing the shape of a piece of glass. I would suggest leaving well enough alone. You COULD use the old antique dealer's trick of hiding scratches by using "nose grease" or some type of oil (Vegetable... etc.) And FYI, nose grease: run your finger along side your nose where it meets your face... that's nose grease. It hides a lot of scratches or makes them less visible by ever so slightly filling the scratch and changing the optics. Obviously this would only work for the outside of a tank...

I hope I didn't shoot down all your hopes! I could definitely envision a cool little nano tank however, bonded together with no silicone and complete with rounded over and polished corners.


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