# HELP: Electric Solenoid Co2 valve



## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

I have a Milwaukee setup ( regulator, needle valve, solenoid, bubble counter)

The electric solenoid is plugged into the timer that controls the ligting over my tank.
After about 6mo's of use, the solenoid stopped closing, and is always open.

Are these reparable, or should I just buy a new one for $40?
Or, does anyone know where I can get a replacement cheaper?

Thank you for any info.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

joshvito said:


> I have a Milwaukee setup ( regulator, needle valve, solenoid, bubble counter)
> 
> The electric solenoid is plugged into the timer that controls the ligting over my tank.
> After about 6mo's of use, the solenoid stopped closing, and is always open.
> ...


www.sumoregulator.com has clippard solenoids for less. Send them an email asking for pricing and explaining that you want to install it with the milwaukee.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Milwaukee uses something like an epoxy for assembly for some of the parts on their regulators. I don't know if they use this same material with the solenoid and its components. If so, it might be hard to remove the components connected to the solenoid without doing damage.

Milwaukee's customer service support for their regulators is really good. Give them a ring and they may send you a replacement solenoid, or help you repair it or maybe even send you a new regulator. On another forum today, a phone call to them saved them quite a bit of money.

Contact info: http://www.milwaukeetesters.com/contactus.html

*Sales and Support In The United States Only
*
*Milwaukee Instruments, Inc.*
2950 Business Park Drive - Rocky Mount, NC 27804 - U.S.A.
Tel.: +1.252.443.3630 - Fax: +1.252.443.1937
Primary: [email protected]
Sales Dept: [email protected]
Technical Dept: [email protected]


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

I contacted Milwaukee over the weekend, and talked with a great CSA this morning.

They are sending me a new solenoid for replacement.
Apparently, all I need to do is change the solenoid part, with out taking the whole thing apart.


Cross your fingers for me - hoping this works.


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## apc789 (Jan 7, 2010)

I had the same problem as you but I had my psi set at a higher pressure then they recommended in the instructions because I could not for the life of me get a steady bps otherwise. I have been manually turning on and off my co2 when lights on/off. 

Maybe I should call Milwaukee and try to get a replacement solenoid.


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

If you hear a click when you plug and unplug the solenoid, the problem lies with your pressure. Changing the solenoid when this is the case will not solve your problem.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

joshvito said:


> If you hear a click when you plug and unplug the solenoid, the problem lies with your pressure. Changing the solenoid when this is the case will not solve your problem.


Isn't the clicking sound coming from the electromagnetic valve on the solenoid opening and closing when plugged and unplugged?

Pressure shouldn't make a clicking sound in this case.


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

Assuming the electromagnet is functioning properly. It is my understanding, that the clicking comes from the electromagnet opening and closing. 

If your pressure is too high, you are hindering the electromagnet from closing. However, if you remove the power to the electromagnet(this is when it closes), the valve would still 'click' after the power is re-supplied. The pressure probably does not restrict all movement.


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## apc789 (Jan 7, 2010)

My solenoid doesn't click anymore when the lights are on/off ever since I had my psi set to 15. This is probably why the say not to use the low pressure guage reading when adjusting and setting it up.


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## orlando (Feb 14, 2007)

joshvito said:


> I have a Milwaukee setup ( regulator, needle valve, solenoid, bubble counter)
> 
> The electric solenoid is plugged into the timer that controls the ligting over my tank.
> After about 6mo's of use, the solenoid stopped closing, and is always open.
> ...


Open up the solenoid as much as you can by removing the 4 screws on the body. Take the sleve and plunger out and give it a look over. More than likely the plunger is stuck closed. Make sure the spring mechanism is working properly and give it a good cleaning.


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

I installed the new solenoid sent from Milwaukee; It work like new now.

I am just having trouble adjusting the gas flow.
The Milwaukee guide is pretty straightfoerward, my adjustment valves are just touchy. I get uneven gas flow. 

I tried opening the valve on the bubble counter, and adjusting the gas flow with just the knob on the regulator. However, I have the knob at the point where 1/8 th a turn goes from no gas to steady stream of gas .


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## madtundra01 (Jan 27, 2010)

I have the same regulator and I agree their adjustment is very touchy. Milwaukee suggests using the regulator knob to adjust flow. But I found if I preset the working pressure (right gauge) to 15 psi and used the needle valve to fine tune the bubble rate i got better results. I see you are from Pittsburgh I live in the North hills. Do you know about the gpasi auction next month ?


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

> I see you are from Pittsburgh I live in the North hills. Do you know about the gpasi auction next month ?


I moved to Buffalo at the beginning of the year. I used to live in Bellevue. I am aware of the GPASI auction, I am a former member. I do miss the club, best club in the region!


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

If you can't get the stock needle valve stabilized, you could get a Fabco or Ideal needle valve from Rex. The Ideal valves are really good. 
http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#needle

Or, get a Swagelok, Nupro, ******, Parker, etc. metering valve from some of the discount places. Many of the 1/8" medium flow valves work well for our use.


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## tsixber (Aug 23, 2013)

Don't know if anyone is following this or not but I have to get this off my chest. I have the full CO2 reg/PH controller unit from Milwaukee and it never really worked from the get go but I didn't know for a while because everybody says "It's the pressure dummy". Mine turns on no problem but won't turn off the gas once the ph drops. A serious problem for fish and inverts. I've tried everything. I have some experience with electronics so I first made sure the relay is working, which is the clicking you hear coming from the PH meter/controller. Then I checked the power at the solenoid cord with relay in both open and closed positions. Not a problem there. It swings between 80v open and 120v closed. The 80v seemed rather odd as I assumed it should go to zero volts open but my buddy has same model (that works) and it has the same range. So I take apart the solenoid and actuate it again while apart. Pin goes down to open gas no problem. Turn the dial back up to make it shut off. NOTHING! Pin stays down (gas on). I then upplug the solenoid cord from the control box and BANG! Pin, spring and all go flying across the floor. So in my case the pin is getting stuck in the down position at the nominal voltage of 80v. Why? It only pops up when I unplug it. I was sure it was the 80v causing the problem, until I measured my buddy's unit which had the same readings. Milwaukee was no help. They just send me a sheet on how to do what I've already done only in a more complicated and stupid way using a lamp. They also told me that the low voltage should be zero, even though I've measured a working unit with the same 80v as mine. They don't even know their own product specs for Pete's sake...


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