# Comments on My Substrate Build



## Japple (Oct 28, 2006)

I have been trying to come up with a long lasting, economical mix for my planted 55g regular tank.

So.... here we go......

Base 2 inches:
85% Organic Potting Soil
10% Peat Moss
5% Soilmaster Select Charcoal
Couple cups of vermiculite (pre-soaked)

.25 inches:
Soilmaster Select Charcoal

Top 1.5-2 inches:
Flourite

So what do you all think. Positives and Negatives would be really appreciated.
I am also really wondering if it is deep enough. The front of the tank come to about 3.2 inches and the back at about 4.

Thanks for the opinions.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

One thing to add to your substrate would be Iron in the form of Laterite. Add it to the base layer. Do not assume that the Fluorite will provide enough Iron.

If you can find pumice add it by mixing it with the potting soil. The grade should be "agricultural" - meaning not too fine, about 1/8" size is good. Some terrestrial plant stores carry pumice. It will provide more porosity to the substrate - reducing compaction. Also the pumice grains have a lot of surface area - good for developing bacteria. Suitable size pumice is somewhat hard to find so here's a link to an online store:
Volcanic Pumice

Also if you can find it - add dry bacteria. Dupla "Baccies" if you can find it is best. If you can't add dry bacteria then add mulm from the bottom or the filter of an existing tank. Just dump the mulm over your base substrate and then cap it with the Fluorite.

To avoid killing the bacteria that you just introduced mix your water with the dechlorinator in a container before adding to the tank. Do not run the tap water in the tank and add dechlorinator at the same time. This will kill most of the bacteria in the substrate.

Despite what many people may tell you when you uproot a plant and your potting soil comes out of the substrate the tank will not develop algae all of a sudden. If you ever pull a plant out and the soil shows up just do a water change. Try to suck some of the soil but *do not disturb it too much*.

The best thing to do would be to plan your layout in such a way that you don't need to pull plants out.

If you are really interested how your base substrate mix is doing after several weeks of running the tank just stick a pipette deep in the substrate and suck some of the water from it. Check the pH. It should be slightly acidic. If it's not a lot of the processes that you want happening in the substrate are not going to be optimal. But if your plants are doing fine testing the substrate pH makes no sense 

--Nikolay


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## bristles (Mar 7, 2006)

I have a soil substrate tank & used top soil (Ace hardware) rather than potting soil as it could have unknown amounts of fertilizer or additives to keep it friable that may want to float.


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## Japple (Oct 28, 2006)

*Thanks*

The input is very appreciated. I will check on the availability of the Pumice.

As for the thickness, do you feel that 3-4 inches is enough?


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## Satirica (Feb 13, 2005)

Good depth. I'd be inclined to leave out the vermiculite if you get the pumice -- it really won't be necessary. Even though you are talking about organic potting soil check the label carefully because organic additives can be in there that might negatively impact your aquarium. I used an organic potting soil that had organic NPK additives and it was pretty much a disaster.

That sounds like a good mix. Please let us know how it works out for you! I am still debating what I am going to do on some tanks I'll be setting up in the next couple of months and your mix is very similar to what I am considering.


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

The only thing I would add to this is your cap layer of Soilmaster Select Charcoal may not be heavy enough to hold down the potting soil and peat. Soilmaster Select seems to be a bit heavier than the regular Soilmaster but if it were me I would look into using some type of sand (not play sand) as a cap layer versus the Soilmaster.

I missed your comments on using Flourite as a cap layer...


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