# Will this stand work?



## NatalieT (Mar 20, 2007)

I want to build a stand to hold 2 glass aquariums, each a 20 gallon long.

I plan to make a hollow rectangle with 2x4s (narrow edges up) for the top tank to sit on, and a matching one to rest on the floor and support the lower tank. I will use 3/4 inch plywood for a "leg" on each end, attached to the outside of the aforementioned frames. I will put a piece of thin (1/4 inch) plywood on the back to prevent wobbles, but cut a hole in the middle of it for ease of cord-routing. I will put 1x6's around the outside of the top to make a lip so the tank can't slide off, and also along the front of the lower shelf for the same purpose.

Assembly will be with glue and screws.

Finish will be 2-3 coats of stain followed by 3 coats of varnish (to match other furniture already built for that room).

After looking at some stands for sale, I'm inclined to think my construction will be adequate. This one is a bit similar to mine:
http://www.petsolutions.com/30+in+Double+Aquarium+Stand-I-15933030-I-C-1045-C-.aspx

Will my design probably work? Have I forgotten anything important?

Thanks!
Natalie


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

that should work. be sure to use at least 2" screws (even 3"), especially at the top. mainly because there will be quite a bit of stress at that connection point.

but most importantly, make sure everything is square and level. good luck! and post pictures once you're done, it would be great to see what you've conjured up 

*** EDIT ***

is this what you're planning on doing?










i didn't include your top edge piece, cause i'm lazy that way


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## schaadrak (Aug 18, 2006)

I think it will be great. Just maybe use ¾" plywood as an addition support on the back as well, just to be safe. Might as well use the whole sheet, right?

I would also lay a sheet of plywood on top of the shelves to keep them square, ¼" should be fine.


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## orlando (Feb 14, 2007)

I think it will work


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## NatalieT (Mar 20, 2007)

I got it mostly put together yesterday; I still have to cut a hole in the back, then its just the finishing (putty over screw heads; sand; stain; varnish). Probably another week until I can use it, because of drying time for the stain (3 coats to get the right shade) and the varnish (several coats of that too).

Yes, Freydo, that's about what I was planning. My top edge is composed of the tops of the end boards, the top of the back board, and a 1x6 board. The end boards are wide enough to cover the 1x6 ends as well, so everything looks smooth on the outside.

I ended up putting a few extra boards on the lowest level so it has the option of a 10 gallon tank or a 20L. The back is 1/2 inch plywood instead of the 1/4 inch I was planning, largely because I had a piece sitting there the right size when I wanted it. I checked everything for square and level, and used plenty of glue and screws. My husband thinks its overbuilt and would probably hold a car  He may be right, but that's better than underbuilt!

Thanks everyone!
Natalie


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## schaadrak (Aug 18, 2006)

Any pics?


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## NatalieT (Mar 20, 2007)

schaadrak said:


> Any pics?


Not yet; I haven't taken any pictures of it yet, and once I do that I'll still have to figure out how to post them.

Natalie


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## t2000kw (Jul 29, 2006)

It's very difficult to get straight wood in most places. Very close, but not quite straight is what I've found.

With my home built stands I usually use some white polystyrene foam (Styrofoam) cut to fit the top. It will compress only a little but it will spread the weight out over the irregularities. Your deviations from true straight must not be significant. If your foam is 1/2 inch thick you probably want to be no more than 1/8" off straight (maybe it would handle a bit more). You could spray paint the edges black before you use it. I use a razor blade to cut mine.

I have done this with a 100 gallon and four 55 gallon aquariums with no problems. 

If you're fortunate to find really straight wood, or if you use a planer to make it perfectly straight, you can ignore using the foam to even the weight out. It also serves to help keep the heat in the tank, though only on the bottom.


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## vic46 (Oct 20, 2006)

You should consider using a marine varnish. Very moisture resistant.
Vic


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

t2000kw said:


> If you're fortunate to find really straight wood, or if you use a planer to make it perfectly straight, you can ignore using the foam to even the weight out. It also serves to help keep the heat in the tank, though only on the bottom.


it still a good idea to use rigid insulation to prevent stress point on the bottom of the tank, especially if it's a rimless tank. and as mentioned, if your stand is the least bit uneven, the insulation will help level things.


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## NatalieT (Mar 20, 2007)

The tank will be a normal 20 gallon long--not rimless--and after I finish the stand, I'll go buy the tank and sit it empty on the stand and see if it rests evenly all around. I think my stand is nice and level, but I'll know for sure when I try it. If its not quite right, then I'll try the foam.

Natalie


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## t2000kw (Jul 29, 2006)

Agreed. A couple of mine are very straight, but I prefer to use the foam. Wood can warp over time. Foam can take up the difference. You'd be surprised how little it compresses under the weight of the water and tank. 

Another thing to consider, if you don't like the home built look or don't enjoy woodworking is a metal double tank stand. Drs Foster & Smith online has one for two 20L tanks for $59.99 plus shipping. If you have an Aquarium Adventure in your area they carry a prettier one (at least in my area) for a little more, and sometimes you can get percent off discount coupons or sales.


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

I recommend a foam rubber pad over styrofoam. Styrofoam is't really meant to support weight. Foam rubber is denser and does not break down under stress like styrofoam can. I'm referring to the rubber mats companies put in work areas where people will spend long periods standing. It is also much easier on the eyes than styrofoam.


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