# Water Plumbing for Aquarium



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Pythons are an amazing tool, but I still just hate to drag it out every week for water changes and cleaning jobs. I use a continuous water change system, but I still need to drain down the water level periodically to clean the glass. Seeing photos of other under-tank plumbing led me to want to design something to meet my own needs - just switch a few valve positions to drain, refill, etc. the tank. Here is the system I am thinking about:



















Does anyone see problems with this, or ways to make it work better?


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## CraigThor (Aug 5, 2007)

Thats alot of valves/ piping... Do you have a drain on your water chagne system. with mine I am installing a tee with a fitting on it so I can attach my python to it for draing. It goes to my drain in the bassement. I will try and draw something up later if you need.


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Suggest inline water heater after valve 7, before CO2.
Do you have need of dechlor? Easiest is manual operation of the water change system, and dump in what dechlor you need. Other way, is dechlor dispenser at valve #1))
Will this be running on any sort of timer, automatic valves? (Something could go wrong if you are not there)
Once the tap water passes valve #1 does it go into the IN side of the filter? Or does it enter the tank via valve #6? (#6 would work better with my next suggestion. 

During Drain operation 
If you want to back flush the filter I would run water in this order: Turn off filter, then from #1, into the OUT side of the filter, exit via IN side of filter to valve #3 (Discharge to the garden) with valves #4, 6, and 2 closed. 

While you are refilling aquarium, do you need valve #4 open to prime the filter and be sure this line is also full?

Would you ever need to use a gravel vac with this system? Maybe interchangeable fitting so the water exits via either filer inlet to valves #5, 6, 3 (Other valves closed- replace filter inlet with GV adaptor) OR water leaves via overflow fitting and valve 2. Either way, discharge to the garden. If valve #1 is open (Tap water flowing through #3 and out to the garden) you could get a venturi effect to get the flow started, then siphoning downhill to garden should keep it going.


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

Or before valve 1 you could plumb in a carbon block filter so you don't need the dechlor.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Thank you all for the suggestions:

In reverse order: I have a "whole house" filter with activated carbon in it, in the cold water line to valve 1. As long as I only add 5 -10 gallons of water in one day I probably won't use the Prime, but for more water than that I will, as I do now.

I plan to make a substrate vacuum attachment to put in place of the inlet screen on the filter inlet pipe. Then, because all of the piping will always have water in it, siphoning should start as soon as I open valves 4 and 3. I think I can adapt a PVC type elbow fitting to be easy to attach or remove in place of the inlet screen.

I use a Rena Filstar XP3 filter, which primes itself if you have the inlet hose full of water, and the filter itself empty of water when you attach the inlet hose. If I clean the filter while using this system that should work fine.

Tentatively I will back flush the filter by running the tank water backwards thru the filter and out the drain line - valves 3, 5, 6 open, with the filter turned off.

I don't use a heater now. If I add 10 gallons of 60F water to an 80F tank, it should only drop the temperature to 75F, which should be no problem for the fish or plants.

This will not be automated - no timers or electric valves. All valves will be $2.50 PVC ball valves. Perhaps I will get even more lazy in a few years, so I will wait on automation until then.

Tap water goes from valve 1 directly to the filter inlet and to valves 3 and 4.

My currently installed continuous change system drips water into the tank, which overflows into a drain fitting (shown on the sketch) and out to the patio where I collect it in 5 gallon buckets for watering container plants. 

Yes, it is a lot of plumbing, but the only problematic areas are where I will add elbows and pipe length to the filter in and out lines. That will affect the flow from the filter unless I do this carefully with a minimum of bends and pipe length.

I can continue to use this for continuous water change by keeping valve 1 and 2 open all the time (2 will be open in any case), then adjusting the incoming flow back to 5 gallons a day.


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## mulita (Jul 31, 2007)

one observation about valves.










Reviewing the lower valve diagram. Valve number 6 is always open in all scenarios. That means no need to have it.

I really think your system is really good, I am going to apply it in my new project as this have the advantage of using the same filter pump to drain out for water changes and for my project this is an advantage due that the aquarium is only 8" above floor level.

It has a lot of plumbing, it's true, but I think it will be worthy. Good idea and thanks for sharing it with us.


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## mulita (Jul 31, 2007)

There is another observation that I just noticed. For Valves 5 & 7 , you may replace both by only one 2 way valve as these are working oppossite way in all scenerios. When 7 is open 5 is close and vs.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

mulita said:


> There is another observation that I just noticed. For Valves 5 & 7 , you may replace both by only one 2 way valve as these are working oppossite way in all scenerios. When 7 is open 5 is close and vs.


You could replace valves 5, 6 & 7 with a three way valve, but that one may cost more than all three ordinary ones!

I think the idea of valve 6 is to be able to isolate and clean the filter when needed quickly and easily and, while it could be removed, it may as well be there in case needed IMO.

Strictly speaking I don't think you'd need valve 2 either, but better to have it and not use it than need to add it later.

Good design Hoppy.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I agree that valve 6 is unnecessary, but I'm still trying to remember why I put it there. I wanted maximum flexibility for doing whatever I might want to try, and I think when I added valve 7 I forgot I could eliminate valve 6.

Valve 2 might be needed to prevent the breaking of the siphon when draining the tank. This valve setup will be lower than the pipe going through the wall to the outdoors.

I knew I could use two way or three way valves in place of some of these, but the little ball valves are so cheap, and they make the system more flexible too.


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## mulita (Jul 31, 2007)

hoppycalif said:


> I agree that valve 6 is unnecessary, .....I think when I added valve 7 I forgot I could eliminate valve 6.


That could be the reason, maybe you added initialy to isolate the filter in case you need to remove it.



hoppycalif said:


> I knew I could use two way or three way valves in place of some of these, but the little ball valves are so cheap, and they make the system more flexible too.


It is for sure that you are right about price, but also 2 way -3 way valves can reduce your valve system from 7 to only 4, as I was also noticing the valves 2 and 3 also work in opposite position for all scenarios and these can be replace for only one. it would be worthy to check how much cost raise up just to check.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

It would be much better to have 2 or 3 way valves than multiple ball valves, with one exception: most of those, by design turn the flow 90 degrees going thru the valve, and that adds a flow restriction. Plus, I can't yet find any supplier with 3 way valves in sizes with 1/2 or 5/8 hose barb fittings on them - they seem to all be 1.5" or larger sizes. I can't think of what consumer product or service would use 3 way valves of that size. The regular ball valves are apparently used in some lawn sprinkler systems. So, I don't know what type of store to look for having them.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Here is the latest iteration of this valve panel setup for under my aquarium. I added the bleed valve on the reactor, and rearranged it a bit, and decided to use 3/4" valves for only the filter lines, with 1/2" valves for the rest of them.

















Once I replace my light fixture setup to give me more access to the back of the tank plumbing I plan to build this and install it.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Now that I have my light fixture replaced so I can more easily get to the plumbing behind the tank, I went back to this valve manifold idea. Today I finished making the basic manifold.










This turned out to be longer than I expected, so I can't fit it at the side of the cabinet as I intended. So, it will go across the back of the cabinet and I will store my fertilizers and food in my other tank cabinet. This one will be pretty full with this manifold, the filter and the CO2 reactor. I ordered some Eheim 16/22 hose from Drs Foster and Smith, along with a 2 liter jug of Excel to pay for the shipping, to use to connect the filter to the manifold, and the other connections should be pretty routine. My costs are about $40 so far, with a few dollars more to go for hose barbs and clamps.


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## mulita (Jul 31, 2007)

Looking Good. What's the total area that this takes?


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

mulita said:


> Looking Good. What's the total area that this takes?


It will end up being about 16" x 25". That could be reduced to about 16" x 21" without too much difficulty, and of course it depends on how many valves it takes to do the things you want it to do.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I finally found all of the odds and ends of adapters and hose barbs I needed. It is together now, awaiting installation in the cabinet under the tank.









It will fit with almost no clearance, but it will fit. This has been much more difficult than I expected, just to assemble all of those valves, the plumbing, and keep everything according to the schematic. It should be worth the trouble though. My cost is now around $50 or so, again more than I expected.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Today I finally had the time to install this monster. It was a monster job! I ran back to the hardware store and Home Depot three times before I finally got everything installed. Then I spent an hour stopping the leaks, mostly by tightening hose clamps harder. And, then the Rena Filstar XP3 wouldn't prime. I finally gave up on using the manifold to do the priming and just disconnected the prime valve outlet hose, and stuck it in a bucket. Then it primed. By then I had used up 5 gallons of water from the tank, which gave me a chance to use the manifold for water replacement. That worked very well, even though I got impatient and used a "bucket" to add more water to speed it up. So, now it is running, and I can still use my continuous water change system just as before. Tomorrow I will try out the filter back flush, which may unprime the filter. So far I have spent 6 hours with the hookup and testing.

Next problem is finding room for the CO2 bottle. I had to refill my CO2 supply this morning, so my timing was good. But, I don't see room for the bottle now.

I think this will end up being a good modification, but the amount of work is such that I'm not sure it would be worth it for most people. I will post a photo tomorrow, once I get the CO2 set up again.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Here is the photo of the finished installation:









It sure does use up a lot of space! I still haven't tried the back flush function, and I don't expect to do so for a few days. This lets me feel good about this for a few more days.


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

Hoppy,
That's a sexy setup there. You even have room for a spice rack on the right.

One word of warning. I didn't check all the paths but if water is left in a closed off section for too long it will go anaerobic. You wont want anaerobic water dumping into the tank. Flush the system into the drain before flushing through the tank. I had that happen with my own system without a happy ending. The tank smelled up the room followed by an algae breakout and fish/plant die-off.

something to consider...


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

JERP said:


> Hoppy,
> That's a sexy setup there. You even have room for a spice rack on the right.
> 
> One word of warning. I didn't check all the paths but if water is left in a closed off section for too long it will go anaerobic. You wont want anaerobic water dumping into the tank. Flush the system into the drain before flushing through the tank. I had that happen with my own system without a happy ending. The tank smelled up the room followed by an algae breakout and fish/plant die-off.
> ...


The "spice rack" idea may be a good one! I now keep all of my ferts and foods in the stand my 10 gallon tank sits on, which is right next to this one. But, I only plan to keep the 10 gallon tank for a few more months. So, I'm at a loss about where to put all of that stuff next.

About the anaerobic water: I don't see any place where water stagnates - no places with a closed valve on both ends. Since I have continual slight flow of water into the tank from the tap, I also have continual slight flow out of the tank to the drain. And, the filter flow is never stagnant, of course.

Now I wish I had designed this to go vertically under the tank, instead of horizontally. I may try to redesign it that way some day when I am bored.


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

You only need one end closed for water to stagnate. The water in my plumbing stagnated in a 3' section of hose that was closed at one end from a T barb. The three foot section was used as a service loop for draining and refilling the tank. I learned to empty the hose section into a bucket befor connecting a hose for topping off the tank.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

JERP said:


> You only need one end closed for water to stagnate. The water in my plumbing stagnated in a 3' section of hose that was closed at one end from a T barb. The three foot section was used as a service loop for draining and refilling the tank. I learned to empty the hose section into a bucket befor connecting a hose for topping off the tank.


That is something I will be watching for. Since most of my fish are guppies, and 3rd generation guppies, losing a few isn't a problem to me.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Today I tried the reverse-flow-through-the-filter-flush system. It worked very well, with the flow out being just slow enough that I could catch it in two buckets to water my plants outside.

But, when I tried to refill the tank with the constant water change system that didn't work well at all. I couldn't get the flow rate high enough to get more than a bare trickle into the tank. I suspect the very hot weather now is the cause. There is plenty of flow available at the regulator, but after it goes through 20 feet of 1/4" plastic tubing it is just a trickle. Back to the drawing board on that part.


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## mulita (Jul 31, 2007)

hoppycalif said:


> Today I tried the reverse-flow-through-the-filter-flush system. It worked very well, with the flow out being just slow enough that I could catch it in two buckets to water my plants outside.
> 
> But, when I tried to refill the tank with the constant water change system that didn't work well at all. I couldn't get the flow rate high enough to get more than a bare trickle into the tank. I suspect the very hot weather now is the cause. There is plenty of flow available at the regulator, but after it goes through 20 feet of 1/4" plastic tubing it is just a trickle. Back to the drawing board on that part.


This looks to me that is more related with low flow low pressure in the water supply to tubing or design. What is it that you mentioned it didnt work so well? I mean even with a low flow the refill should work well, and I bet the constance water change too, even better with a low flow.

My version of your design is working really wood so far, I havent tried the back flush but I am sure it will work


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

Looking at your original valve set up. You can eliminate a lot of back pressure by bypassing yout filter and reactor. You can fill your tank directly by opening 1 & 4 only


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Yes, I refill with just the 1 & 4 valves open, but all I could get was a dripping flow. I had tested this before and it worked fine, but it was cold that day. To get a constant water change operation I also open 1, with the two filter valves and the overflow valve all open. That still works very well, and I have to throttle the incoming flow way down to get just a dripping flow. But, with the water throttling valve wide open it didn't work for refilling the tank. Sounds weird. (That throttling valve is outdoors, with the water pressure regulator and filter I have installed for the constant water change system.)


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

I suspect the pressure regulator. Next time it's hot, which might be sometime tomorrow in Sac, disconnect the hose from the regulator to check the flow through the regulator. 

You might consider upgrading, or just insulating the pressure regulator so it doesn't get baked by the sun.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I have a 3 way valve in the system that lets me check the flow through the regulator, filter, throttle valve, right at the regulator. When I used it I got a heavy flow, but switching back to the system didn't deliver that flow to the aquarium. I still think the heat caused the plastic tubing under my deck to collapse and harden in the collapsed shape. But, I don't know if vinyl drip irrigation tubing will do that.


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

Perhaps a slight kink in the tubing that gets worse as the tube softens in the heat.

Dunno. It's going to take some trouble shooting.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

JERP said:


> Perhaps a slight kink in the tubing that gets worse as the tube softens in the heat.
> 
> Dunno. It's going to take some trouble shooting.


Good idea. I will try to inspect the tubing run. Most of it is under a deck of 2 x 6 redwood on top of a garage roof, so it isn't easy to see.


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## Richsap (Dec 14, 2008)

I realize that I am about two light years behind on posting for this subject, but I recently re-entered the aquarium scene after letting my tank go dormant for a year and a half...

I use a combonation of a pool valve and several "gate" (one way) valves on my system to control water flow. The pool valve makes pumping, draining and backflushing as simple as the turn of a handle. The one way valves eliminate the need for most manual valves in the sytem. I still have several manually operated valves in the plumbing, not for day-to-day use but for isolating the pump, heaters and filters so that I don't have to drain a huge amount of water to work on any one component or to change the filter media. I don't have pictures with me right now nor do I have a diagram worked up, but if you are interested e-mail me: Richsap at YAH00


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

Since someone resurrected this,

Hoppy, did ever find your clog in the line?


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## Luc (Nov 1, 2008)

I assume that you're using a canister filter. If so, be careful with running the filter and topping up water from your mains.
If you're using a T-connector, then you have chance of burning your filter down. (I had the same thing happening) Basically what happens is that your mains-water, coming from the 'base of the T', will go both directions. It therefore stops or even reverses the rotor in your filter, which would then overheat and damage.

I have the same type of redundant and multipurpose plumbing. It makes your life easy and disturbance in the tank itself a lot less.
Overhauling everything in the coming 2 weeks. See if I got some time to make pictures of it.


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## intothenew (Aug 1, 2008)

I feel like I just stole something. I am in the planning stages and demolition for a DIY now. I have made rough schematics, but nothing of this detail. This is GREAT!


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