# Pressurized Co2 finally.



## will5 (Oct 26, 2005)

After 5yrs of messing around with Diy Co2. I finally have a pressurized system. I've had it going three days now and only one near mishap has occred. I was cranking in to much Co2 and the fish were starting to gasp at the surface. Luckily I planed for something like this and did not set it up until I went on winter break. I am slowing tweaking the system everyday. As I am new to this I don't know what to expect or how the fish will respond. I am keeping a very close eye on the tank for the next week or so.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Will,

Yes make sure that you increase the amount of CO2 gradually or the fish will suffer. Once adapted they can handle a concentration that initially was a problem.

Also make sure you have a way to shut off the CO2 in case the power goes off. Either solenoid (shuts the CO2 completely when there is no electricity) or an internal reactor (stops sucking the CO2 bubble and breaking it down so the bubble floats up to the surface and does not disolve when the power is off)

Your surface movement is important too. Often people try to reduce it or eliminate it completely. But surface movement must be there for proper gas exchange - not just CO2 and O2 but other gases too.

For a cheap internal reactor you can't beat the efficiency of this:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...s/44053-tiny-super-efficient-co2-reactor.html

--Nikolay


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## will5 (Oct 26, 2005)

I have both the solenoid and a power head. I just had to go with the solenoid because I did not want to run Co2 24/7.

Thanks for the info about raising the Co2 level slowly. I did not know that they could get used to higher levels of Co2.

Now I just need to get some rum of the mill stem plants because I blew my very budget to start with on getting this.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Hope not to sound like a nag, but there is no real evidence that turning off the CO2 at night actually makes a planted tank run better. If someone can show us pictures to compare that would be great. For now the idea of shutting off the CO2 at night is just a good logical structure - "Plants do not use CO2 in the dark so why supply it. They use O2 so let's pump some.". Also - Amano does this O2 pumping at night and he can't be wrong...

Whatever it is - doing like Amano does or trying to double the life of your CO2 bottle (save about $8) remember that after shutting off the CO2 at night it takes a very short time for the CO2 to fizz out of the water - about 30 min. And it takes about 2-4 hours to get it back up to a good level in the morning. To me personally such a yo-yo situation is not the best for the stability of a planted tank. 

--Nikolay


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## TarantulaGuy (Apr 15, 2009)

I run my co2 24/7, and while I still have a relatively new tank, I think my tank is probably better off stability wise than shutting if off, running, shutting it off, running, etc. I'm not sure how good that would be for my fish, it sounds rather hard on them. I've never tried just running it during the day though, so take this post for what it's worth.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

TarantulaGuy said:


> I run my co2 24/7, and while I still have a relatively new tank, I think my tank is probably better off stability wise than shutting if off, running, shutting it off, running, etc. I'm not sure how good that would be for my fish, it sounds rather hard on them. I've never tried just running it during the day though, so take this post for what it's worth.


I agree, running CO2 24/7 is more stable and less hastle in the long run. Just follow Niko's advise about making adjustments real slowly and gradually. I've been running CO2 24/7 for about 3 years and it worked fine for me. I have a decent amount of surface movement so, never had any issues with fish gasping at the surface. My 4 kdh drop checker would easily stay green.

Just recently I decided to try shutting of CO2 at night because, some people maintain that it's better for the fish to have only O2 at night and not CO2. Also, I wanted to see if there really would be any savings shutting off the CO2 at night. So, I spent $55.00 for a solenoid, fittings and a timer. Since I was shutting off CO2 at night, I had to time the CO2 to turn on about 2 hours before the lights turn on and, I had to increase the bubble count slightly so I would have sufficient CO2 when the lights came on. This was probably due to the surface turbulence which I like, for oxygenation and to remove surface scum. I did save money on CO2, about $2.50 per month. Spend $55.00 to save $2.50 a month. Yeah, my wife was real proud.:biggrin:

Two days ago, my solenoid decided to stick open. The drop checker was real light yellow, not good. The fish didn't seem to mind though. The solenoid gets real hot so, you have to unplug it and wait before handling it. I had to shut off the CO2 bottle so, I wouldn't lose any when opening up the line. I'm sure you can guess why I know this.  I used canned air to try and blow through the solenoid. Nope, still stuck so, I took the solenoid out of the system until I have time to fix it. I will try and WD40 it and when its un-stuck, blow air through it to get rid of the WD40.

I will keep the solenoid because I like tinkering but, is it worth it? NO!


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

bosmahe1 said:


> ... Two days ago, my solenoid decided to stick open. ...


Hi bosmahe1

What solenoid are you using?

Thanks,
Left C


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Left C said:


> Hi bosmahe1
> 
> What solenoid are you using?
> 
> ...


Left C,

I'm using a Clippard per your advice. How do you usually fix a sticking solenoid? I don't think it's dirty because it's rather new. I'm thinking it is sticking because, of it's newness. I was going to squirt WD40 in, energize and de energize several times, then blow canned air out to remove access WD 40. I want to use it since I have it but, so far, I think it's a PITA. By the way, it was hooked up inline via two hose barbs. I think I will install it with brass fittings to the regulator. If for no other reason than maybe a heat sinking affect. That baby gets hot.

Here's a picture of my West Virginia style set up. Hey, I'm 30 miles from the WVA border. :mrgreen:
Seriously, I set it up this way because the regulator sits on a paintball tank so a regulator and soleniod would be rather top heavy.


__
https://flic.kr/p/4115333270


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi bosmahe1,

WD 40 is very flammable; I would not recommend it because solenoids can get very warm, even hot. I would head to the auto supply store or hardware store and pick up some graphite used to lubricate locks and such. It is dry and not flammable.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

In all fairness I think it's been proven that you can have a healthy planted tank whether you run co2 24/7 or shut of at night. I personally shut co2 off at night for most tanks since it saves co2 (cost recently went up to $15 for 5lb cylinder) and because I don't went to worry about the fish. I understand about the stability thing but don't you guys do water changes? What happens to the co2 level when you change 50% weekly as many do?


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## will5 (Oct 26, 2005)

houseofcards said:


> In all fairness I think it's been proven that you can have a healthy planted tank whether you run co2 24/7 or shut of at night. I personally shut co2 off at night for most tanks since it saves co2 (cost recently went up to $15 for 5lb cylinder) and because I don't went to worry about the fish. I understand about the stability thing but don't you guys do water changes? What happens to the co2 level when you change 50% weekly as many do?


Wow that is cheaper then what I paid. It was 20.00 to have it filled and I thought that was a great price.


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## El Exorcisto (Aug 10, 2006)

Wow, I spend $3 for my 2.5 lb tank, $6 for this loaner 5 pounder I have while my 2.5 is off getting hydro tested...


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## Reginald2 (Feb 8, 2009)

That water change question seems legitimate. I recently got a new co2 setup and had all but decided against a solenoid. The regulator I ended up buying had one anyway so I've been using it.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi bosmahe1,
> 
> WD 40 is very flammable; I would not recommend it because solenoids can get very warm, even hot. I would head to the auto supply store or hardware store and pick up some graphite used to lubricate locks and such. It is dry and not flammable.


Good point, thanks. Do they have graphite in a spray can?


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

bosmahe1 said:


> Left C,
> 
> I'm using a Clippard per your advice. How do you usually fix a sticking solenoid? I don't think it's dirty because it's rather new. I'm thinking it is sticking because, of it's newness. I was going to squirt WD40 in, energize and de energize several times, then blow canned air out to remove access WD 40. I want to use it since I have it but, so far, I think it's a PITA. By the way, it was hooked up inline via two hose barbs. I think I will install it with brass fittings to the regulator. If for no other reason than maybe a heat sinking affect. That baby gets hot.
> 
> ...


Did you get it un-stuck? I've never had a Clippard stick, but I had a Burkert stick twice.

It wasn't the solenoid's fault. The guys at aquariumplants.com used Teflon tape too zealously when they assembled the regulator. Tiny pieces of the tape would break off and cause the solenoid to stick open. I no-longer have this regulator.

I use non-hardening pipe joint compound when I assemble my regulators and not Teflon tape. None of my Clippard and Burkert solenoids have stuck since I've been using this compound.

By chance, is your regulator put together with Teflon tape?

You can disassemble your regulator unit enough so that you can blow compressed air through it while opening and closing it until it is fixed. If it is still jammed, you will have to take it apart enough so that you can remove the obstruction.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Left C said:


> Did you get it un-stuck? I've never had a Clippard stick, but I had a Burkert stick twice.
> 
> It wasn't the solenoid's fault. The guys at aquariumplants.com used Teflon tape too zealously when they assembled the regulator. Tiny pieces of the tape would break off and cause the solenoid to stick open. I no-longer have this regulator.
> 
> ...


Left C,

I haven't looked at it since before the holidays. I did try to take the cover off the solenoid but, the phillips screws were really tight and I wasn't interested in boogering them up if it wasn't necessary. I bought the solenoid from Oregon Aqua Design, I think he used the hardening kind of Pipe Joint Compound on the fittings. I think I will take the fittings apart, should give me more access to the solenoid innards and keep blowing it out until it is unstuck. I will reassemble with non hardening compound as you suggest.

Thanks

Henry


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