# Anyone out there build their own backgrounds?



## AKnickolai (Nov 30, 2007)

I've read of few forum and blog posts about people building backgrounds using Styrofoam and concrete. I think they look really cool and would be much lighter/easier than attaching actual rocks to the inside of the tank. One thing that all the threads mention is the background raising kH, but I never saw a note as to weather this was permanent or not. I'm lucky and have pretty soft tap water, which works for the fish and plants that I keep. Is the kH leaching from concrete something that only lasts for a few days weeks or does the concrete need to be epoxy coated?


----------



## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

This guy takes the cake when it comes to making backgrounds. Look through his threads for ideas on what you can do.

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/journals/72178-mudskipper-paludarium-project.html

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/diy-aquarium-projects/72114-woodwork.html


----------



## AKnickolai (Nov 30, 2007)

Wow, those posts are amazing. I'm still struggling with kH/gH raising elements leaching into the water. Those threads mentioned this effect and that it subsided over time. This might fall into the category of things I just need to try and see how it effects my water. 

The other option I'm considering is using a potable water epoxy that has a darker coloration, applying several coats to foam or molded pvc sheet, then spreading fine gravel/sand over the final layer to make it look like rock.


----------



## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

Sounds like it could work, when you get started be sure to post pics. I know people would be interested in seeing your work.


----------



## JG06 (Nov 5, 2006)

Go to the Dendorboards forums and peruse the Parts and Construction forums. Those guys have it down to a science. Several of the backgrounds I've seen over there look like something you'd see at the zoo!


----------



## Minja (Jan 17, 2012)

Drylock saved me. Regular concrete did not work for me. So as a last attempt, i use drylock over it. Only then it became inert.


----------



## Ever Inquisitive (Jul 12, 2011)

I also plan to make one within the next few weeks, I'll be sure to post pics and let you know how it goes! (I should note its for a viv and not an aquarium though.)


----------



## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

I have done this back many years ago. All my initial attempts turned out to be a disaster. Yes the hardness of the water went right through the ceiling. I was able to use some of them on African Cichlid tanks.

We also had two people locally making them and selling them. They both looked fantastic but the individual that realy stuck out was not using concrete. Instead he was building them out of potters clay and having them baked before selling them. Those looked fantastic like actual natural stone cliffs build into the aquarium or ancient ruins. The only problem was he had some fantastic prices on his work.


----------



## cstmgp (Aug 22, 2007)

I will prob try one for my next 125 build. I used the sheet Styrofoam painted with drylock for a desert tank, but I need to confirm that the foam is safe in water.
It had a pretty realistic look to it, I'll try to dig up a pic. It's been a while since my dart frog days.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## cstmgp (Aug 22, 2007)

Found a crappy pic, but you can see the idea, I think by playing with the colors you could come up with cool stone backgrounds.










Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Phil Edwards (Jan 22, 2004)

Here're some pics of a background I made from wood, solid core styro, spray foam, West Marine epoxy, sand, and peat moss many years ago.



Roughed out texture




Smoothed. I used a knife and small vibrating sander.


Coating. The sand was too light so I ran another coat on top with the finely ground peat moss.


Final product.






Hope his helps some.


----------



## TropTrea (Jan 10, 2014)

Phil I like your fairly low cost approach. My fear though is it would be to light and want to flow upwards though. Also what kind of glue do you use on the Styrofoam that in non toxic?

I have done train backgrounds and mountains like that but it is super light weight. And II would never use the dyes I use on them for a fish tank.


----------



## Fishnshrimp2 (Sep 21, 2013)

I made a background for my 20g long with styrofoam and mortar. I used the white styro.








It is more densely planted now, you can barely see it. I made some legs on it to place some heavy rocks on after gluing it in place to make sure it did not float up.


----------



## cstmgp (Aug 22, 2007)

That looks really good. I actually painted the dry lock directly to the foam with no issues, and siliconed it in the tank.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Fishnshrimp2 (Sep 21, 2013)

I wanted to use drylok but I did not know if it was safe to use. I am going to use it on my next background. Does it affect the water?


----------



## cstmgp (Aug 22, 2007)

I've not heard of it affecting anyone's water, but my experience is with dendroboard Vivs/paludariums. Dart frogs are HIGHLY sensitive to contaminants though.
Drylock is made to seal water out, so it would make sense that water wouldn't affect it or break it down at all.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## cstmgp (Aug 22, 2007)

It also never contained any mold/mildew inhibitors, but keep an eye out for "updated" formulas.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Phil Edwards (Jan 22, 2004)

The West Marine marine epoxy is potable water safe and doesn't leach anything into the water. There are other brands that may be easier and cheaper to get where you are. In my case this was the best option at the time. As for gluing, I just used liberal amounts of clear GE Silicone I 100% silicone. You've got to make sure to put a really thick bead around the outer edges to seal it or water will get in and cause issues over time. Add silicone to the rest as you please, keeping in mind it's hard to overdo it. Even coating the whole back isn't overkill as long as the edge bead is thick. I put the main back sheet down first and weighed it down heavily to ensure the best seal I could then let it cure for a couple days before messing with it. The spray foam adhered to the styro very well.

If you wanted to paint it with brown Rust-O-Leum that would work too. I've used the black variety on styro walls in Dutch style tanks long term without any toxicity issues.


----------

