# first walstad method...but problems



## thefishguy (Mar 4, 2013)

here is how i set up my 65g walstad method. 
listed by layers: 
1. heating cable (100w) and play sand (to cover cable and disperse heat evenly)
2.florite (1/4 inch) 
3. washed and soaked miracle grow organic potting mix (1 inch). 
4. florite (1/4 inch) 
5. gravel mixed with some play sand( about an 1inch) 

equipment 
press. co2 (abput 2 bubbles per sec) 
eheim g90 canister filter 
2 96w compact flour. lights plus marineland led 

i am getting bad smelling bubbles and white cloudy water....due to anerobic bacteria..the tank has been running for a few-4 weeks. just started poking the substrate, wat else should i do? i have cardinal tetras in there for 5 days with no problem.


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## thefishguy (Mar 4, 2013)

been doing 10-20 percent water change a week with dosing of potassium, fe, and comprehensive 1-2 a week. also been getting white film on stuff to  plants r growing though and fish r doing alright weirdly enough


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

I think you may have your soil way too thick. You have a lot of nutrients breaking down all at once which is producing your sulfur gas. I think you should have only gone at most 1/2 inch on the soil. For the rest of the substrate you would use your capping medium. 
I'm not sure what you do now. Perhaps an Walstad expert can chime in here.


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## thefishguy (Mar 4, 2013)

i hope so cause idk if i should proceed with more fish or not haha


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## thefishguy (Mar 4, 2013)

i either have to tear down my tank and start over wit better substrate or keep up my water changes and hope for the best... :/ can anyone help?


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## KrisAmbrose (Oct 1, 2012)

Keep up water changes, increase to about 30%. Do not add more fish. In a month or so, the sulfur dioxide production should be slowing. Add more fast growing plants as well, maybe some floaters too.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Fishguy, I am not familiar with heating cables and don't know how much that is contributing to your problem. The soil layer is not excessive, but you have a lot of cap over it. Mixing sand and gravel creates a tight cap that might be interfering with gas exchange between soil layer and water.

I agree with Kris, keep up the water changes, even increasing to 50%. Try to siphon out some of the cap to make it a little thinner. Keep poking the substrate to release bubbles. Add more plants, especially ones with deep, strong root systems--swords are good for this. Such plants transport oxygen from the leaves to the roots, relieving anaerobic conditions.

I am going to move your thread to the El Natural forum, which is all about Walstad tanks. It should get more attention there.

Good luck!


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## thefishguy (Mar 4, 2013)

the heating cable just creates a micro circulation from the water column to the substrate and from the substrate to the water column. i will prolly keep it at 30% water change due to the cardinal tetras, i dont want to change the chemistry too much for them. 

i dont plan on adding too many more plants due to i like the natural look i have and i know they will fill in soon. i have ; microswords, a red mellon sword, pennywort, crypts, giant vals, lillies, water hyacin (for kicks), glossostigma, ludwigia, and a fast growing stem plant that idk what it is. 
tank you for moving the thread, i hope for more responses. i would hate to tear it down....will this stuff pass in time as well? and isnt anerobic bacteria benifical (in moderate colonies)?


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## Luffy (Aug 23, 2012)

I agree with michael; you really need some more plants. It will probably take too long for your microswords and vals to grow in adequately (if they do... vals and microswords are finicky in my experience). The thing that makes Walstad tanks work is high plantload from the beginning. If you want to do a Walstad, you've really gotta buy into the plant deal. 
Those cheap aponogeton bulbs you can get in the pet store seem to throw out a nice root system really quickly if you want something to help the anaerobic substrate problem. They can grow big though, so don't throw too many in there. 
Anaerobic bacteria can break down nitrate but plants suck up nitrate too without the potential to release toxic (and stinky) sulfur compounds. It's not too good for planted tanks cause it can kill your stems.


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## 1077 (Nov 7, 2011)

Walstad method went out the window with CO2 injection on this tank ,and I would let the tank settle and perform the two or three weekly water changes while bacteria work on organic's in substrate.
Some folk's worry too much about anerobic gas but unless substrate is deeper than 3 inches,,I would not be too concerned.
It is said that hydrogen sulfide is rendered harmless once it makes contact with O2 in the tank but I'm no chemist.
I have run tank's with much deeper sand than two inches without issues so long as water changes are regular, and there is good CO2/O2 exchange at the surface.
Many lakes,pond's have sand,mud bottom's that never get any sifting poking,but fishes thrive. 
My own 300 Litre Low energy tank has close to three inches of blasting media over approx two inches of soil ,and I have not touched the substrate in a couple year's but i do employ trumpet snail's which keep the first few centimeter's aerated.
No snail activity at bottom most layer's in most tank's.


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## thefishguy (Mar 4, 2013)

i have about 3.5-4 layer of all my substrate combined. 

starting to think i maybe should have done another substrate haha. but i like using natural gravel/sand as a covering layer cause it looks natural and the natural idea of walstad intrigued me. 

so you peeps think if i put some more plants and keep up with the water changes it should be fine? like would the problem "go away" or would i just have it under control?


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

I think it will eventually go away.


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## Arendahl (Mar 16, 2013)

Hey Fishguy 

I`ve had my pottingsoil running for 5 years now without any problems, even if it is 5 to 15 cm thick.

The best advice i can give when starting up, is to flush supstraet, minimum 2 to 3 times, to get washed excess fertillizer out.

I agree that more plants would be an advantage, once the damage is done is water changes important agree.

I`m not sure that heating cables are an advantage, given that it warms your soil up will the micro fauna tolerate det, i`m just asking.

Regards Kjeld


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