# Alage Problem



## haiphan02 (Dec 7, 2010)

Setup:

1.44WPG, CO2, and dry fertilizer, 8hrs of light per day (6pm-2am)

Photos were taken 5 days after a WC.

What is my problems?


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## haiphan02 (Dec 7, 2010)

I just bought another fixture today, so after tomorrow, it will be up around 3WPG. So should i lower the hours my lights are on now?


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## sandeepraghuvanshi (Feb 22, 2007)

It looks like BGA, which is a cynobacteria.
Start dosing with Flourish excel, it helps in controlling BGA.
Is your co2 setup pressurised or DIY, inconsistent co2 often results in algae.
How old is this tank and what is bps of CO2


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## haiphan02 (Dec 7, 2010)

co2 is pressurized with a PH controller, set at 6.8. BPS = 3. (its a high tech plant, i'm just a noob and don't have it setup right)

Tank is old, 6months. The previous owner had it set perfectly, I can't seem to get it back to its old glory day as seen here:


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## fishyjoe24 (May 18, 2010)

what size tank, and what size canister filter? also what are you using for flow/ circulation...


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## haiphan02 (Dec 7, 2010)

*Tank size*: 75 Gallons All-Glass Awuarium
*Filter*: Eheim 2260 (non-Classic version, compare-able to Fluval FX5, good up to 400 gallons tank) is connected to clear inline reactor
*Lights*: Dual Glow T5x54w with Giesemann bulbs
*Water Flow*: Powerhead with sponge attachment (forgot brand)
*CO2*: Concoa dual stage CO2 regulator, 5lbs CO2 tank, Milwaukee SMS 122 ph meter, 
*Heater*: Hydor ETH 300 In-Line Heater, another 300W in tank heater (forgot brand)

Currently:
WPG:* 1.44 WPG, 8hours of light per day (6pm-2am)*
BPS: *3*
PH: steady at *6.8 - 7
*

*Below are old pics from prev. owner, same equipment i'm using now. EXCEPT: i've added more water flow via powerhead*


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## wwh2694 (Aug 15, 2008)

Take out the ph controler. I used those before and it makes it more troublesome. It tends to make ur co2 low even when ur ph is low arleady. U need constant co2 tru out your lighting period. I see u got discus. I had 5 big discus before and they require hotter temps for them not to be sick and those hot temp envites alot of algae. Planted discus is nice but hard to managed. U need more co2 to prevent those hair algae. To kill those algae i use hydrogen peroxide or excel squirt it directly on the algae with ur filter off. Or u can just remove the plants that have an algae.


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## digital_gods (Apr 23, 2010)

Before we get too engrossed into the fine details, lets backup to the basics. The basic requirements for a plant to grow is: light, nutrients and carbon source. We know your lights on a 8 hour period. To much lighting isn't the issue. Your using co2 for your carbon source. We know it isn't too much because your fish are not gasping at the surface or dead. Now not enough maybe. Inconsistent amount that is causing ph swings, maybe. So that leaves us with nutrients to examine. You said you fertilize, what do you use, how much and how often? Water changes, how much and how often? Cleaning the filters, how often? Have you tested your Nitrates and Phosphates. My guess, it could be possible excess of nitrates, phosphates or dissolved organics. Look into those areas before dumping chemicals into your tank giving that delicate nature of the Discus.

Seeing the last photo, you might have excess zip ties causing the issue. :roll:


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Looks like hair algae and BBA to me. Too much iron and phosphate, unsteady CO2 levels, low MgSO4 and maybe low nitrate.


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## digital_gods (Apr 23, 2010)

You can use a tooth brush to brush the hair algae out of the grass. What city are you in? If your near my route I commute, I'd be willing to pickup a water sample and test it for you.


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## kimcadmus (Nov 23, 2008)

The algae on the equipment and old slow-growing plant leaves is bba. Bleach the equipment and remove old heavily infested leaves.

The algae in the hairgrass looks like it is cladophora -if it is fibrous and rough instead of slimy. It thrives under the same conditions as the desirable aquatic plants. So it is not an issue of mismanagement of other parameters.

The tooth brush method will work for physical removal but it will surely return. It breaks into tiny pieces when disrupted then floats around the tank redepositing itself elsewhere. When you physically remove it you should have your filter off and have a siphon over it to extract the tiny pieces.

It is impossibly to remove all of it by hand. So the hydrogen peroxide method mention previous is a must in my opinion and is VERY effective if you are persistent each week.

I agree with the need for consistent CO2 level.

Some of the best advise might be to change one thing at a time and give it time to work (1-2 weeks). So choose 1 - light, ferts, or co2


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## kimcadmus (Nov 23, 2008)

The algae on the equipment and old slow-growing plant leaves is bba. Bleach the equipment and remove old heavily infested leaves.

The algae in the hairgrass looks like it is cladophora -if it is fibrous and rough instead of slimy. It thrives under the same conditions as the desirable aquatic plants. So it is not an issue of mismanagement of other parameters.

The tooth brush method will work for physical removal but it will surely return. It breaks into tiny pieces when disrupted then floats around the tank redepositing itself elsewhere. When you physically remove it you should have your filter off and have a siphon over it to extract the tiny pieces.

It is impossibly to remove all of it by hand. So the hydrogen peroxide method mention previous is a must in my opinion and is VERY effective if you are persistent each week.

I agree with the need for consistent CO2 level.

Some of the best advise might be to change one thing at a time and give it time to work (1-2 weeks). So choose 1 - light, ferts, or co2


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## haiphan02 (Dec 7, 2010)

Thank you to everyone for the advices, I've started doing EI dosing and added another 48" dual glo hagen 54w lights bringing my total to 3.54wpg. Still getting the same problem, so I'm going to increase the CO2 now, maybe from 3-4bps to 5-6bps.


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## kimcadmus (Nov 23, 2008)

Did you determine what kind of algae is in the hairgrass? Because if it is clado - CO2 will not make it recede.


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