# sigh....filter question about fluval



## jeff63851 (Feb 23, 2005)

O man...Yesterday I broke my Filstar Xp2 filter. I will have to call them on monday. Since I bought it from another aquarist, I don't think I can get a refund. While trying to put back on the filter after cleaning it, one of the parts that sucures the filter's four courner. Also, it is very hard to start up after you clean it. I was wondering if they have a parts that sell the outside box.

I was thinking of buying a Fluval 304 filter. Would that work? Also, if anyone uses this, is it easy to use and clean?

I'm going to try to find a filter online and order it as quick as I can because there are three angelfish in my 60 gal. tank without a filter and the water is becomeing cloudly...

Thanks :neutral: 

-Jeff


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I used a Fluval 304 for three years on a 120 gallon planted tank. It was easy to clean, except for the rotor, which took some careful effort to remove for cleaning. Also, once it had been set up and running, it reprimed itself after every cleaning with no problems. I liked it well enough to get a 104 for my next aquarium, and I found the best deals on ebay, by careful shopping there.


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## cS (Jan 27, 2004)

Jeff, did you just break one of the four corner clamps or the actual canister itself? Big Al does sell replacement parts. But depending on what you broke, it can be QUITE costly to replace it. In fact, it would probably be more practical to just buy an entirely new canister.

However, if you only broke the corner clamps, then I can help you with that. I have a "Kit for O-Ring and Clamp Replacement". It comes with 2 O-rings, lubricant, and four corner clamps. It's yours for the cost of S/H ($5) and a good deed for your mother. I don't have Filstar filters anymore so I don't have any need for it.

PM me if you're interested. :rock:



> Also, it is very hard to start up after you clean it.


You probably have a CO2 reactor on the output side? In any case, the next time you clean the filter, don't close the four corner clamps so that air can escape...until the water coming from the intake tube nearly fills the canister. That should take care of your priming problem.


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

I've had no problems with my Fluval 304, I've had it for 3-4 years. It can be hard to prime at times and the propeller is hard to get to to clean, other than that cleaning is easy. 

On the other side I've had a Fluval 204 for 2 years that cracked on me. Fluval has sent me two replacement canisters, which also cracked on me. I've been trying to get a whole new filter from Fluval but before I can I've got to track down my receipt and send back the old filter at my cost. So for this reason I'm now trying other filters, Ehiem & Filstar.

I have found that Big Al's have the best prices on filters, this is where I've bought all mine from.


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## Jim (Apr 4, 2005)

Hi Jeff,

I have been running a Fluval 404 on my 85G planted tank for about a year and am quite satisfied. It's easy to clean, lots of room inside, relatively quick to prime and no leaks when disconnecting. If you're price sensitive, Fluval is a great option. There are so many Eheim fans out there however, that I'll probably buy an Eheim next time just based on their reputation. If you can afford it, you may want to go with Eheim. If you can't, you should have no problem with the Fluval. Good luck, 

Jim


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## jeff63851 (Feb 23, 2005)

Thanks. I got the filter like three days ago. Does anyone defuse CO2 with that? (like stick it in the intake)? Also, the hose that returns water to the aquarium, does anyone have it submerged? It says to leave it above the water, but that causes CO2 to leave the water.

Thanks


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## Jim (Apr 4, 2005)

Mine is submerged. The directions tell you to do that, but only as part of the priming/startup process. Running it above the water level continuously would cause too much agitation

Jim


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## e.lark (May 5, 2005)

I run two 304's, one with a reactor and the other with hydor heater inline on a 58g. Not much help as I dont have any experience with any other canister other than these two but I have no complaints. Quiet, easy to clean, and so far dependable. One thing though, I didnt care for the ribbed hosing and fittings so I easily replaced them with vinyl tubing and utube intake and nozzles.


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## jppurchase (Dec 15, 2004)

*Hydor Inline Heaters*



e.lark said:


> I run two 304's, one with a reactor and the other with hydor heater inline on a 58g. Not much help as I dont have any experience with any other canister other than these two but I have no complaints. Quiet, easy to clean, and so far dependable. One thing though, I didnt care for the ribbed hosing and fittings so I easily replaced them with vinyl tubing and utube intake and nozzles.


Lark, do you like the Hydor Inline Heater? I've been seriously considering replacing all of my Ebo Jager's with those inline heaters. Less clutter in the tank. Do you know if it impacts on the thru-put (water volume) of the canister?

James Purchase
Toronto


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## e.lark (May 5, 2005)

jppurchase said:


> Do you know if it impacts on the thru-put (water volume) of the canister?
> 
> James Purchase
> Toronto


I honestly couldn't tell you as I havent seen the fluval run without something plumbed inline but I could tell you that I cant imagine the fluval by itself having any more stonger a current. I dont think the inline heater effects thru-put much if at all. Excellent product, I will never have a tank without one.


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## jeff63851 (Feb 23, 2005)

What do you people use for the filter media? I don't use the carbon, so for some, I just leave them blank. Can I get some foam from Home Depot and use that as a filter media? Also, if I have Green Water, is it because I don't have enough foam? (my dad keeps telling me that the we don't have enough foam in the filter, which is causing the GW :-s )

About the water returning to the aquarium...Where do you face it? I have the intake tube on the very left side of my aquarium, and the water returning to the aquarium is in the far right of the tank, and is pointed to the front left of the tank so I can get water moving to the intake again. How do you do it?

Also, since the water returning to the aquarium is to strong, do you ever turn it lower? Does it ever bother your fish?

Thanks for reading my long post!!

-Jeff


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## Jim (Apr 4, 2005)

In addition to the Fluval sponges, I add filter floss to one of the media baskets. This greatly helps with mechanical filtration. Fluval bio media in the other basket. No carbon. 

The GW is caused by nutrient imbalances in your tank, not a lack of mechanical filtration. Search the forum for previous posts about GW -- lots of information here about how to eliminate it.

Check out my earlier post about submerging the water return. You can't/don't need to turn down the flow -- just submerge the return and you should be all set. I leave mine just below the water surface, so that I am agitating the water.


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## rohape (Feb 7, 2005)

i too have a fluval 304 in my 55gal. i've only had it for about 2 weeks, and running it carbonless also. for the media i use floss (or batting used in pillows which i picked up at my local craft store for $3 for a huge bag) in my lower tray. my second tray is the biological ceramic media that comes with the filter plus a little extra. on top of that i added some some small black coralife bioballs. http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/showthread.php?t=6594&page=1&pp=10 i have two canister hagen CO2 bottles which i ran the hose in to the intake tube inside the tank (pressurized is not an option for me right now), which is in the center of my tank just above the gravel. i lowered my output about 1.5-2 inches below the water on the left side of my tank. i do have some pretty strong current, but it dosen't seem to bother the fish too much, they can move around to get out of the current if they wish. the only thing thats annoying about this setup is that food and poo get hung up behind the output hose. otherwise im pretty happy so far. two weeks, no green water, no issues.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

James,
I bought one of the Hydor's for my 50 and I think it's great. One less piece of equipment in the tank, keeps the temp dead on. I don't see any effect on the water flow, but it does make a click when it cycles on. I highly recommend it.


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## rohape (Feb 7, 2005)

i have just moved my output to the right side of the tank (it was blowin my plants around too much) and submersed it about 7-8". i also aimed the output more at the glass so it does a ricochet type thing. the water circulation has cut down quite a bit. i have almost no water movement on the top now, i have to keep my air running, just on low, because i noticed my fish breathing a lot harder with it off.


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