# how do i get rid of this algae?



## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

So i'm having algae issues and i'm not sure why. 

Here is set up

My T5HO 10,000 k and 6700k bulbs
Fertz use the EI method 1/32 tsp of mono potassium phosphate 1/32 tsp potasium sulfate and 1/8 tsp of potassium nitrate

I use root tabs for traces

I have pressurized CO2 and my drop checker says i have 30 ppm using an internal co2 reactor.

My lights are on 10 hours a day. 

I can't seem to get it off my plants i remove it and it comes back. It looks like staghorn algae and before my co2 levels were low but now they are better. 

What should I do?

Also my nitrates are at 30 ppm and my phosphates are 5 ppm


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi rockhoe14er,

How many watts, how large an aquarium? What type of "cleaning crew" do you have in your tank? Why 10 hours?


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

29 gallon tank. 

48 watts

One otto and 2 algae eating shrimp. I chose 10 hours because I thought that was pretty standard.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi rockhoe14er,

What about water changes, how much and how often?

Do have any pictures with maybe a closer, more clear view of the algae?


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

I actually do a lot of water changes. probably close to 50% every 3 days.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi rockhoe14er,

I think if it was me I would keep up the 2X week water changes, keep up the EI dosing, add a couple more Corys, one more Oto, and a Siamese Algae Eater (true SAE). I would cut the light down to 7 hours / day (split photoperiod is fine) and see what happens after a week or so.

You are running a little bit less wattage than I am; I have about 2 watts per gallon on my 45 gallon. But my photoperiod is only 6 hours.

45 Gallon; 2 Watts Per Gallon


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

Here is a close picture.


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

Why do you think i need to cut down my photo period? do you think my lights are too intense? and also why do you do the split period


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi rockhoe14er,
> 
> I think if it was me I would keep up the 2X week water changes, keep up the EI dosing, add a couple more Corys, one more Oto, and a Siamese Algae Eater (true SAE). I would cut the light down to 7 hours / day (split photoperiod is fine) and see what happens after a week or so.
> 
> ...


Also it was my understanding that we don't really use Watts per gallon anymore because since i am using T5HO they are actually emitting more lumen's than a regular bulb so therefor watts/gallon is quite inaccurate.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi rockhoe14er,

When Tom Barr gave his presentation here in Seattle in September, he discussed "Reduced Light, CO2 Enhanced" planted aquariums. He discussed lighting, ferts, CO2, "limiting factors"...the whole gamut.

You are correct, Watts per Gallon is not the most accurate method of determining light intensity....but most of us do not have a $335 Apogee PAR meter available to us. So if we are looking at methods of comparison what would you suggest?

I also agree that T5HO puts out more light (lumens) per watt than a T8, T12, or even a Power Compact (T5) light I am using. So, if I can get good healthy growth and minimum algae with 6 hours of light with a bulb that puts out less than your T5HO why are you running yours 10 hours; over 1.5 times my photoperiod?

Why do I run a split photoperiod? I have done the split photoperiod for over two years now, that way I can have the aquariiums illuminated when I am at home and can enjoy them.


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## rockhoe14er (Oct 28, 2010)

Hmm Great information thanks that clears up a lot. 

How long should i try a shorter photo period. Two weeks? What do i do with the already present algae? should i just leave it and it'll just slowly go away?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi rockhoe14er,

First I would get the additional members of the cleaning crew in place. Then I would physically remove as much algae as possible and then siphon as much as possible with the next water change. Finally, clean your filter. If I have badly affected stems, I remove the lower 1/2 or so and re-plant the less algae infested tops.

I have never had algae "just go away", I wish it would! Hopefully the reduced lighting will result in slower algae growth. The slower algae growth in conjunction with the larger and more diverse cleaning crew (SAE) will hopefully allow the cleaning crew to get most of it cleaned up.

Two weeks should give you an idea if progress is being made or not. If not, we will looking a more aggressive strategy. Let us know how things progress!


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## Ekrindul (Jul 3, 2010)

I would remove a bulb from the fixture if possible. 

My preference is 6700K, but if you like the look of 10K that is fine. A 7 hour photoperiod versus a 10 hour photoperiod with the same light is still the same photosynthetic rate, only over a shorter duration. The nutrient demand doesn't change. The plants aren't any less stressed. Removing some light intensity, in the form of a bulb, changes the photosynthetic rate, thereby reducing nutrient demand and making a less favorable environment for algae, which wants higher light and dislikes lower light.

If however you wish to keep both bulbs burning, you need to work on tweaking CO2 and your dosing routine to meet the plants' demands. From what I see, the plants look starved. Also, though I may be mistaken as the pictures don't show the whole tank, it appears you need more plant mass. It is always wise to stuff a new tank with plants to put algae at a disadvantage. Fast growing stem plants work best, even if you decide to remove/replace them with other plants later once the tank has stabilized.


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## rich815 (Jun 27, 2007)

Additional cleaning crew will not hurt but will not help all that much. Personally I cannot stand SAE and think they do little and are a bear to catch and get rid off. Unless you starve them but then what about the other fish? Definitely cut down the wattage and the photoperiod. I'm 108w of T5HO over a 4' long 72 gal and I do lights from 6-10am and then again from 5-9pm. CO2 is set to go on 1 hour before the lights do and off one hour before the light do. Remove as much of the existing algae you can and then for 2-3 weeks check the tank each night and be diligent in continuously removing any new algae you see. Be patiet and persistent, keep up the WC, ferts and have some good fast stems in the tank to be nutrient sponges and in time the algae will abate tremendously. Important thing is the patience. If you change things every few days you'll never let the tank find balance/stability nor understand what is affecting what. Tom Barr has said that the algae you see now is from the conditions of 2-3 weeks back.


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