# Anubias looking bad



## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

Every thing was good for 8 months. last several months. leaves both old and new, yellow and get holes. Plant still making new leaves. Tried new bulbs and now changed light cycle. 2 bulbs (6700k and 5000K) 12hours and 2 bulbs (6700k and 10000k) 5 hours. Thought maybe burning leaves. I use IE for 50-60 gallon tank. Co2 is pH controlled. Kh at 7 and Gh at 5. Started after vacation gone for 3 weeks and cant get it back to where it was looking nice. Note that other plants seem to slow down in growth as well.

Any ideas

Thanks
Dave

p.s. all bulbs 39watt German made


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

First off, welcome to apc. 

Sounds like some change in fert scheme. Have you changed your dosing?


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

I didn't but while I was gone... there nothing happening read something on conductivity and anubias like readings under 500us closer to 250 but I just dropped my meter and new a new probe..bummer.
I was using the Rex Grigg IE method

thanks for the response


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## csmith (Apr 22, 2010)

Don't spend too much time caught up in the numbers. Ensure you've added to the dosing routine as your plants have grown in. More plants = more ferts needed (including CO2).

As your lighting goes, are you saying 2 bulbs are on for 12 hours and another 2 bulbs are on for five..meaning for five hours of the day you have four total bulbs running? If so, that is quite a bit of light, especially if this is sitting right on top of the tank. That'll also drive your need for ferts (again, CO2 included).


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

Lighting sits 4" over tank and I just thought I was using root tabs but ran out . I was told they can last 6 months if that helps any. I dose in the morning also today NO3 is zero by 5pm, Phosphates are 2-5ppm today CO2 is should be good pH controlled 7.0 ph and kH is 8 so I believe it puts me at 25ppm.

Thanks for the feedback

Dave


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Anubias are heavy root feeders. Do you have it planted in the substrate or tied to a rock or bogwood?

Is there any brown crud on the rhizome at the end (opposite the growth tip)?


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

roots planted in flourite / gravel. plant grew straight up on both ends (like a U)so many roots not planted.
As for brown crude, most of the roots are dark green and clean looking.

thanks

Dave


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

One side of the plant is clean the other end has some crude as you say. but both ends are growing.
What is the crude about???


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Not good if its what mine has. Take a look at my thread in the link and look at my tank picture when you click on my user name. Quite a difference in a healthy coffeefolia. Let me know if you think you have this disease.

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...gy-emersed-culture/80406-anubias-disease.html


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Here's another link regarding rhizome rot

http://anubias-engl.blogspot.com/2011/04/anubias-plants-rotting-facts-rumours.html

Attachment of my anubias during better days>


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## Green Thumb Aquatics (Jan 1, 2012)

nice looking tank.


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

Wow that looks nasty. I'll attach some pics 001 the side looking good 002 the opposite is the one in trouble.


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

I cant say for sure. It always grows on the backend and works its way forward. I've been able to boost the health of mine by cutting away any brown fungus and then treating the end with excel and letting it sit for 2 to 3 minutes before returning it to the tank. Problem is that it grows too slow. There is no cure. I since have put anubias nana 'petite' and a modern day 'coffeefolia' in the tank and they remain fungus free. I'll have a hard time replacing mine as its a heirloom variety - the original coffeefolia.


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

I have mine planted in Flourite as well. I leave at least 1/2" between the bottom of the rhizome and the substrate. I add root tabs: 1/3 stick of Jobes House Plant fertilizer spike 1st month and then a couple of pea sized pieces of Flourite root tab the next month. It flowers a few weeks later.


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

If you don't mind what are all the specs. on your tank setup??

Thanks for the feedback

Dave

sorry I saw the info under your profile


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Here's some more info on the blight>
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/10.1094/PDIS.2003.87.8.1005C


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## DeChaoOrdo (Jan 7, 2012)

The yellow/brown spots look like it was deficient in K while you were on vacation. The crud looks like either a filamentous algae or mulm being caught in the roots. The leaves that have damage won't recover, so once you've got some nice new growth cut them off. If you are concerned your anubias is suffering the same blight newts had try squeezing the rhizome, if it's spongy then chances are you do. If its firm then that's not it.


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## Newt (Apr 1, 2004)

Even though my anubias has the fungal infection the rhizome is still firm.


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## DeChaoOrdo (Jan 7, 2012)

Newt said:


> Even though my anubias has the fungal infection the rhizome is still firm.


Oh, sorry. Guess that proves the old adage about assumptions. Thats good news though because it means it spreads from the outside in rather than inside out.

In this case I'd still lean towards nutrient deficiency since the OP indicates he was unable to tend to the tank for 3 weeks and the spots look like textbook potassium deficiency spots, though it would be good to examine the rhizome to insure there aren't signs of fungal infection.


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## igfrey (Dec 29, 2011)

For IE method 10ppm of K 3 x a week also NO3 10 ppm 3x a week and P @ 1-2 ppm plus adding plantex CSM+B on the other days. New so far looking better, no spots ; )


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