# 2 hrs break inbetween, is it really helpful?



## sepehr (Sep 15, 2010)

Hi,

Im currently using 4X54 watts T5HO lights over my 100 gallon tank. The lights are on for 10 hrs a day with a 2.5 hrs break inbetween. Rightnow, I have a staghron algae outbreak and Im taking one step at a time trying to fix the problem. First, Im trying to get the lights sorted out & then I'll get into fertilizing methods...Is this too much light for a 100 galllon tank? Is the 2.5 hrs break inbetween really helpful as some people claim? If so, should the pressurized CO2 be shut off as well? Or should I just let the lights on for 10 hrs straight? Would this give me better results? And if this is the case, should I let the lights on two at a time without overlapping or the 4 bulbs would be ok? After I get the lighting sorted out (or course with your guidance), I'll post more questions about fertilizers and CO2 if you dont mind 

TIA,
Sepehr


tank: 100 gallons
substrate: Red Sea Flora Base
light: 4X54 watts T5HO 10 hrs day
fertilizers: Seachem Excel 3 times a wk, Trace 3 times a week, Bio-Vert which contains potassium, magnesium, iron, etc...once a week.

wc: 40% weekly
50% of the tank is planted

fauna: 12 neons, 5 ottos, +15 RCS (for now)
tank has been up for 2.5 months


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## joshvito (Apr 6, 2009)

Depending on the distance between the tank and your lights, I would estimate that 8 hours is long enough photo period. The break in between is advantageous, if you would like to have the lights on later in the day. (e.g. run the lights from 10am-2pm and from 5pm-9pm)

There is a lot of good light information at The Barr Report about lighting, or check this post out. par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi sepehr,

When starting up a new tank I start with a reduced photoperiod, typically about 6 hours or less. If algae starts sprouting, I back down my photoperiod to maybe four hours. Once I have algae under control, then I start increasing my photoperiod by about 1 hour per week. If algae starts again, I back down a hour or so wait a week and start again. Even with my tanks fully cycled, and about 2 watts per gallon (2 WPG) I only have a 6 - 7 hour photoperiod which I split 3 hours in the AM and 3.5 hours evening.

As for algae, Siamese Algae Eater and Otocinclus are part of a good cleaning crew. Seachem Excel at 2X the daily dosage is effective against Staghorn algae. Water changes twice a week are a big help.

As for ferts, where are your Macros? None of the ferts you listed seem to contain nitrogen or phosphorus. Algae is very good at out competing plants in low nutrient conditions.


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## DarioDario (Nov 14, 2008)

The break in photoperiod allows for a build up CO2 so that when the light comes back on the plants have easier access to carbon. So the one thing I would really advise against is turning off your CO2 during your break. 

The watts per gallon rule should just be used as a very generic estimation as the only real way to know the amount of light that your receiving at any given point in your tank is best measured with a PAR meter.

Maintain the necessary amount of CO2 so that your plants are satisfied. Then if you feel so inclined try experimenting, all four lights or pull one of the lights and run 3. But these will take some patience so see any effective results.


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## sepehr (Sep 15, 2010)

joshvito said:


> Depending on the distance between the tank and your lights, I would estimate that 8 hours is long enough photo period. The break in between is advantageous, if you would like to have the lights on later in the day. (e.g. run the lights from 10am-2pm and from 5pm-9pm)
> 
> There is a lot of good light information at The Barr Report about lighting, or check this post out. par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc


The distance between the lights and the water surface is abut 5 inches and I currently have the lights on from 11:30 am to 4:30 pm and then from 6:45 pm to 11 pm = 10 hrs total. I can recall from one the posts from Tom Barr that he doesnt believe in split photoperiods...something about CO2 having to build up again to optimum levels after the break. By the way thnx for the link, Im on it.


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## sepehr (Sep 15, 2010)

DarioDario said:


> The break in photoperiod allows for a build up CO2 so that when the light comes back on the plants have easier access to carbon. So the one thing I would really advise against is turning off your CO2 during your break.
> 
> The watts per gallon rule should just be used as a very generic estimation as the only real way to know the amount of light that your receiving at any given point in your tank is best measured with a PAR meter.
> 
> Maintain the necessary amount of CO2 so that your plants are satisfied. Then if you feel so inclined try experimenting, all four lights or pull one of the lights and run 3. But these will take some patience so see any effective results.


Thanks Dario, you just answered one of my questions that I was seeking an answer to for the longest time and thats to whether to turn off the CO2 during the break. I still have doubts about howmany of the lights I should run. Perhaps the lights arent the root of the problem and the way I dose fertilizers is actually the cause for th unwanted staghorn algae. Im still confused about finding the correct way of dosing fertilizers and howmuch of each.


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## sepehr (Sep 15, 2010)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi sepehr,
> 
> When starting up a new tank I start with a reduced photoperiod, typically about 6 hours or less. If algae starts sprouting, I back down my photoperiod to maybe four hours. Once I have algae under control, then I start increasing my photoperiod by about 1 hour per week. If algae starts again, I back down a hour or so wait a week and start again. Even with my tanks fully cycled, and about 2 watts per gallon (2 WPG) I only have a 6 - 7 hour photoperiod which I split 3 hours in the AM and 3.5 hours evening.
> 
> ...


Hey thanks for your quick reply. I have a doubt though about what you said: Reducing the photoperiod (in case of algae) to little as 4 hrs a day, bad for plants?

I also have 5 ottos in my 100 gallon tank and theyre very active but they seem to graze on the kind of algae that grows on the leaves, driftwoods, and glass that can not been seen with naked eyes. Both the ottos & the red cherry shrimp ignore the staghorn algaes...at least from my own observations.

And I really do like the idea of using Excel at 2 times the recommended dosage to kill of this stubborn algae but Im kind of hesitant to double the dosage because of the shrimps. Do you have any shrimps in your tank? And if so, were they ok with it?

And as far as the ferts go, the Bio-Vert product from a French company called Prodibio contains potassium, sulphur, manganese, and iron and its instructed to use just one ampule every2 wks for each 50 gallon of water but I thinks thats too little. If you know of any proper way of dosing please do let me know.

Thank you


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi sepehr,



> Reducing the photoperiod (in case of algae) to little as 4 hrs a day, bad for plants?


I said I started at 6 hours per day (you started at 10 hours per day) and if I had problems with algae during start-up I would reduce the photoperiod. Typically if I start with a short photoperiod and build up the time over several weeks then the plants have time to become established and grow as the light period increases.



> I also have 5 ottos in my 100 gallon tank and theyre very active but they seem to graze on the kind of algae that grows on the leaves, driftwoods, and glass that can not been seen with naked eyes. Both the ottos & the red cherry shrimp ignore the staghorn algaes...at least from my own observations.


I agree, that is why I use both Otos and SAE. Otos seem to go for the softer flat algae while the SAE tend to like the more filamentous algae. Green Dust Algae and Green Spot Algae I deal with by hand.



> And I really do like the idea of using Excel at 2 times the recommended dosage to kill of this stubborn algae but Im kind of hesitant to double the dosage because of the shrimps. Do you have any shrimps in your tank? And if so, were they ok with it?


I don't currently have shrimp; I suggest doing a search about Excel at 2X daily dose with shrimp.



> And as far as the ferts go, the Bio-Vert product from a French company called Prodibio contains potassium, sulphur, manganese, and iron and its instructed to use just one ampule every2 wks for each 50 gallon of water but I thinks thats too little. If you know of any proper way of dosing please do let me know.


You have a long photoperiod with moderate light; no nitrogen or phosphorus will definitely encourage algae growth. Using commercial ferts are going to get expensive very quickly but if you go that route I suggest the Seachem Flourish Products. I suggest you start reading the "Stickys" at the beginning of the Fertilizing sub-forum. I used to do the PPS-Pro but now do the EI method.

BTW, Tom Barr spoke at GSAS here in Seattle on Tuesday night. He did an excellent presentation on "Light Limited CO2 Enriched Aquariums" and how the manipulation of the photoperiod is a good way to control plant growth and limit algae. He mentioned "Split Photoperiods" in his presentation and did not speak out against it. What he said was a split photoperiod can actually be beneficial because it allows the CO2 level to recover during the "Siesta period" which can help plant growth. He did say that a split photoperiod has little to no effect on algae growth.


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