# [Wet Thumb Forum]-New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction - Updated 20021216



## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

*So there is no confusion. This is not my topic. I moved it from the old forum because I deemed it very valuable. Any questions or comments should continue to be directed at James Hoftiezer*

(1) I ordered a 100g custom aquarium from www.glasscages.com. It measures 36(wide) x24(deep) x25(high). There are three 1.75" holes drilled in the back right corner for: 
A-Overflow/drain 
B-Output to filter 
C-Input from filter 
COST - $235 









The tank manufacturer travels to reptile and aquarium shows on the east coast. I make arrangements to pick up the items at shows. They will make just about anything you can request. I just called them up, gave them dimensions and they gave me a price. The bulkheads added $50 to the price.

I decided on the dimensions of the tank after posting and reading on the forum. Most people would prefer more depth and height than can be found ins tandard aquariums. A standard 55 is great for fish, but when you try to plant it the lack of depth is a severe limitation. Since I was trying to keep the overall tank smaller I went with 36" wide. The depth and height could have been compromised at 18" which would have been a 65g tank. I ended up with a hundred because I really only want to buy one tank.

I went with the bulkheads after consulting with many people. The general consensus is that they wish they could go back and drill their tanks for them. Since I was already ordering a custom tank, it seemed like a good idea to go ahead and put them in. Worst case I could just plug them.

Bulkheads also make the waterchages SO EASY since one of the holes is a drain. I do not have any hoses running across the room. I can either trickle in water and let the overflow compensate ('dilution') or pull a segment of the standpipe and let it drain downbefore adding the water back like a traditional water change.

Since I went custom I ended up spending two months waiting on it. During this time I got the stand made, flourite washed and components ordered. The LFS would have taken 4-6 weeks to order in a nonstandard tank.

FYI - If the tank is custom the stand will have to be custom.
_________________
James Hoftiezer

[This message was edited by Steve Hampton on Sun February 02 2003 at 10:12 PM.]


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

*So there is no confusion. This is not my topic. I moved it from the old forum because I deemed it very valuable. Any questions or comments should continue to be directed at James Hoftiezer*

(1) I ordered a 100g custom aquarium from www.glasscages.com. It measures 36(wide) x24(deep) x25(high). There are three 1.75" holes drilled in the back right corner for: 
A-Overflow/drain 
B-Output to filter 
C-Input from filter 
COST - $235 









The tank manufacturer travels to reptile and aquarium shows on the east coast. I make arrangements to pick up the items at shows. They will make just about anything you can request. I just called them up, gave them dimensions and they gave me a price. The bulkheads added $50 to the price.

I decided on the dimensions of the tank after posting and reading on the forum. Most people would prefer more depth and height than can be found ins tandard aquariums. A standard 55 is great for fish, but when you try to plant it the lack of depth is a severe limitation. Since I was trying to keep the overall tank smaller I went with 36" wide. The depth and height could have been compromised at 18" which would have been a 65g tank. I ended up with a hundred because I really only want to buy one tank.

I went with the bulkheads after consulting with many people. The general consensus is that they wish they could go back and drill their tanks for them. Since I was already ordering a custom tank, it seemed like a good idea to go ahead and put them in. Worst case I could just plug them.

Bulkheads also make the waterchages SO EASY since one of the holes is a drain. I do not have any hoses running across the room. I can either trickle in water and let the overflow compensate ('dilution') or pull a segment of the standpipe and let it drain downbefore adding the water back like a traditional water change.

Since I went custom I ended up spending two months waiting on it. During this time I got the stand made, flourite washed and components ordered. The LFS would have taken 4-6 weeks to order in a nonstandard tank.

FYI - If the tank is custom the stand will have to be custom.
_________________
James Hoftiezer

[This message was edited by Steve Hampton on Sun February 02 2003 at 10:12 PM.]


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

(2) I built the stand using 3/4" MDF and 14ga metal workbench legs. The bottom is a simple 3/4" MDF. The top is 2x3/4" bonded together with wood working glue. 1/4"x2" bolts hold the top onto the legs and aid in bonding the top. qty 3 3"dia holes are drilled in the back left corner to accomodate the plumbing bulkheads. 
COST- qty (2) 4'x8'x3/4" MDF - $40 
qty (4) 14ga workbench legs - $100










For this purpose the MDF is really easy to work with. It cuts easily and cleans up well. Router cut edges like butter and there is next to no sanding. There are two things to take notice of. 
-The smooth surfaces require sanding to rough the surface before painting. 
-MDF hates hole saws. Bring your patience as it tends to gum the teeth

The workbench legs are rated for 4000lb for each pair. One pair would have worked but since I'm anal and paranoid I used both pair. I ordered one 30" set and one 36" set. They were ~$43/46 a pair. To me it is vastly easier and cleaner thatn trying to frame stand using standard lumber to take the weight of the aquarium. One set would have worked fine, but since it fit the design I used both to give me stability in two axis and to spread the weight across a greater area of the floor.
_________________
James Hoftiezer


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

(3) The hood was constructed with 3/4" MDF and 1/2" plywood. A 30" piano hinge allows the hood to be raised toa vertical position for maintenance. In the mood are various holes for cords, fans and venting. The lighting is provided by 6 55w lights from www.AHSuppply.com. The bulbs are 2x55wx5300k from AH and 4x55x6400k bought on ebay. A 13W blue light from AH acts as a nightlight. 
COST - 30" hinge - $8 
3x2x55w light kits - $166 
2x55wx5300k - $45 
4x55x6400k - $30


















This hood design puts the lights right over the water. This took the water temp to 86. Perfect for discuss but not for the Rainbows I want to keep. I added the fan, but I also needed to crack the hood to keep the temp down. 
The fan is an old 120VAC, 4" that I had laying around for a decade. I am ordering a pair of newer one off ebay for $3 each. I am hoping they will be quieter

I am running 4 of the 6 55w lights right now. I like the light and color although if anything I would want a little but whiter (7100k) for a few of the bulbs.

I was one of the early reviewers of the Flourex lights, but learned after the performance of the first light that I was going with AH for this tank. The reflectors are doing a great job of getting the light down into the depths.
_________________
James Hoftiezer


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

(4) Plumbing includes a canister filter below tha tank int he stand and a semi-automated water changing system. In each of the 1.75" holes I installed a 1" threadxthread bulkhead fitting from www.DrsFosterSmith.com. Into these I used regular PVC fittings with teflon tape. All threads are coated with teflon tape to increase the water seal and make assembly/disassembly easier. None of these fitting have required glue. I used threaded fitting on all pressurized unions. I taped the household water with a 1/4" line into the tank and used a 1/2" line to drain from the overflow bulkhead.










I ended up ditching the secoond output. The nozzle is 3/4" NPT so I can change it to a few different sizes to change the velocity.

The pipes are all 1" because the bulkheads are 1". They feed tubing underneath that is 5/8". I could go with small PVC even down to 1/2", but 3/4" might be a better compromise.

The inflows are seperated to provide better circulation in the tank removing any deadspots in the water. I have two in case debris or plants clog one. I have prefilters on order for them now.
_________________
James Hoftiezer


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

(5) Heater cables were installed. They ae currently 110AC, but I may convert them to DC. Since I had no holders, I manufactured them by splitting and groving 2" PVC. I think this has an added advantage in that plant roots should not entwine around the cables as easily.

The cables are from Rena-Cal and are 6 meters by 50w. I bought them on ebay for $20. Currenlty they are not plugged in as the temperature of the tankis already high and I have not turned on any of the heaters yet.


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

6) I filled tha tank and checked for leaks in the tank or the fittings. This also allowed me to check the fill and drain system. The 1/4 line adds water at about a gallon every three minutes. The 1/2" drain line will remove about 5g/min.

I was very proud of the tank at this minute as I was the only person on the board without any algae.


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

7) I washed 11 bags of flourite using a sluice system in the back of my pickup truck. All 11 bags took about 90 minutes and ~300 gallons of water.

COST - qty(11) x $14.50 from www.bigalsonline.com


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

Posted: Sat Nov 16, 2002 2:13 pm

(8 ) Next came the cork and driftwood. All pieces were soaked, scrubbed and rinsed before use.

The cork was bought in large sections and tubes at reptile shows. Soaking the cork does nothing as it will continue to float. In order to secure it, I attached large sections of aluminum screen to the bottom of each piece and secured it with tacks and silicone. Then I put the pieces in the tank and buried the screen with the flourite.

The other piece is grapewood (also from reptile shows). This piece was soaked and secured using the same method as the cork. This piece later developed a white fungal growth. I removed the piece and scrubbed it with bleach. the fungus returned. I am using hydrogen peroxide to deal with it but I would suggest a permaganate soak for all woods before use.


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

First ... here's the nightlight. 13W dark blue PC in a 100g.










Next I painted all of the PVC before filling in the tank. I used a black and grey mottle that was to hide the pipes in the background. As it stands, in a flourite tank, the black and grey doesn't get lost nearly as much now that the water has cleared. Some other colors would work better. I am hoping some vals or swords will eventually take care of it.

None of the pipes are glued together. They can be taken apart and moved to suit the aquascape. The only one that needs to stay as it is would be the overflow which runs all the way to the top in the back right corner. The other can be hidden in the aquascape. The pic below shows the tank today.










Then I also have some closeups of the pipes. The inlet pipes have prefilters on the way. When they get here I'm going to trim the foam filter in such a fashion as to camouflage the inlets.
























Since the tank temp is way up there, I may also be able to get rid of the heater in the back right corner. I'll keep the one in the left.

I also used 1" PVC for this project. You could use 3/4" or even 1/2". I knew I was going to hide it in the substrate, so I went with what was easiest. This being my first tank I erred on the side of caution. Last thing I wanted to do was restrict water flow.
_________________
James Hoftiezer


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

No wet/dry 
I have and Eheim 2028 from www.BigAlsOnline.com with media for $199. Its rated for 100-160g tanks.

Under the stand I have the CO2 tank and reactor, but they are not hooked up yet. 
You can also see the UV Sterilizer 
All of the ballasts for the lighting are mounted against the roof.


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

Dojo
Happy Gardener-frequent member


Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 12:16 am Post subject: 

Nice stuff! 

Whats the purpose the UV sterilizer? 


JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 5:38 am Post subject: 

UV Sterilizer cuts down on single cell algaes (green water) and various fish parasites and diseases. It will be run until I get into a large fert regimen at which point I'll only be running it about once a week or when introducing fish. 

The ony negative about running it all the time, is that many people beleive it breaks down chemicals in the fertilizers such as the bonds in chelated iron.
_________________
James Hoftiezer


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

Ghazanfar Ghori
Moderator

Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 6:00 am Post subject:

First let me wipe the drool off my chin....

Now the questions:

With all that connected to your filter outflow, have you noticed 
any loss of flow? One of the good things with the Ehiem professional II 
series is the flow rate indicator. Love that!

You're not using a spray bar right? How's the circulation without it?

What are you planning to plant in the foreground?

Are you getting tannins leaching from the corkbark yet?
_________________
- 
Ghazanfar Ghori 
http://www.aquaticscape.com

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 8:38 am Post subject:

Big concern was losing flow because of the UV, reactor and all the bends. The indicator on the eheim is still at the top indicating full flow. 
The tankis geting good circulation. Aiming the flow more towards the top (along with a fan) has eliminated surface scum.

Just in case, I also ordered a 350gph mad grive off ebay for $30. I can hook it inline if needed but at this point I may just put it inthe tank for added circulation with a micron prefilter on it to keep the water polished and moving.

The circulation right now is agood flow, but not forceful. It causes a swilrling motion in surface, but the fish are not nidered by it. They avoid the main stream, but swim around on their own throughout the tank.

The cork has not been leaching noticably, but did during the soaking. I knew it was going to float but I did presoak it for two weeks to try and get the tannins out. 
I am currently running a carbon pad in the filter but still have a little yellow to the water under 6400k lights.

I am reaserving the foreground (all 3 sq ft ) for microsword and gloss. I do have a lot of riccia, but have not decided how much I'll use. I want to cover several areas, but I do not want to cover the entire foreground.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

IUknown
Happy Gardener-frequent member

Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 1:42 pm Post subject:

You just got me interested in the night light. I love that picture. What temperature should I look for, dark blue? Is it the 10000K/Dark Blue Combo? Great work!

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 2:30 pm Post subject:

It does look pretty sweet doesn't it

The picture is just the blue bulb in a standard 13w kit. 
AH sells the bulb as: 
13 6.9" Medium Blue 11137 $7.99 
Do not confuse it with a 10k bulb or combo bulb. Those will still have the 10k white light. At night I think it is just the right amount of light. Once I have larger, silvery fish its gonna be better, but I wouldn't go with a larger bulb.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

Dojo
Happy Gardener-frequent member

Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 3:06 pm Post subject:

I used AH's 2x13 retrofit kit for my red lights over my 130gal

Don't be ALARMED by the intense RED. It's not THAT red nore THAT bright. And the red light actually, after being on 10 minutes, fades into a more low 'warm' light. I saw James blue light and it's intrigued me I might switch them out with blue just to see how it looks. I was hoping the red wouldnt be so bright but it still is a little to much for a 'night viewing light'. I still love it all the same though! The clown loaches loose every bit of fear when I turn on the red lights!

~D

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 5:09 pm Post subject:

I considered the red and and the blue. 
I had seen red lights on reptile cages but I think the blue gives an aquarium a moonlight look which is more natural. 
I see the red lights and it reminds more of Mars and the sun than of Earth and the water.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2002 6:30 am Post subject:

Update - 
On another thread (Product Review) there is a great closeout deal on an Eheim 2228 filter ($99 ). They confirmed the order but we'll have to see if its actually in. 
Its the same as a 2028 except it doesn't have the prime feature and using smaller hose.

Here's what I'm thinking: 
Give each its own intake from the bulkhead using some 3/4" PVC and adapters. Make the 2228 the biological filter and make the 2028 the polishing filter. Leave the UV on the end of the 2028.

If I need to I can rejoin the lines using larger hose and use the power of both filter to push through the CO2 reactor. I'll overkill on the filtration which I don't think is a bad thing. It will make the extra pumphead unneeded.

Any problems? Anything I'm missing?

-The pump was $40and I really think I was going to need it. 
-I really didn't want to put the pump inside the tank. 
-I was going to need prefilters and such on the pump taking up a lot of space and costing more money. 
-I was going to need place to put a carbonate media to raise the kh. 
-I've been trying come up with a way to increase the fine media for polishing the water.

This way I return the pump, double my filter capacity and double the number of media baskets. It will cost about $45 more than the pump.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2002 4:36 am Post subject:

New update: 
I got the second filter in and replumbed the tank. Now I have two Eheim 2x28 filters online with a rated flow of 275gph each on a 100g tank. Combined it will be 5x filter capacity. One is set up with bilogical material, the other has the mechanical media.

First I lowered the water level and plugged the input/ouput fitting.

Since the bulkheads are double threaded I was able to just uncrew the old pieces and screw in standpipes with qty(2) 3/4" fittings each. Each pump now has its own in/out circuit. They go from 5/8 hoses to 3/4" PVC to 1" PVC. Each size change should create pressure drops so that backpressure does not build in any section (i.e. the filters don't fight each other).

Inside tha tank, I changed the water jet from qty(1) 3/4" by adding qty(3) 1/4" jets. These jets area just hose barbs screwed into the 1" PVC. They allow me to adjust the flow of the water jets. Two of the 1/4" outlets are planted in the substrate under a row of hydo. The third is towards the back. If flow becomes and issue I will likely change this to a 3/4" outlet.

With one filter going I get a good stream across the front of the tank. With both filters going it is so strong it tosses the fish around. Once the water clears and I get ready to go with both on a regualr basis I will make the change on the back jet.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

otherguy
Happy Gardener-frequent member

Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2002 10:07 pm Post subject:

Just curious I was reading that you painted your pvc to blend in better, did you use just regular old spray paint??????

Thanks,

Otherguy

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2002 4:16 am Post subject:

I used rustolem primer, then finish. All outdoor grade.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

walpurgis999
Happy Gardener-frequent member

Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2002 5:11 am Post subject:

The "red light" debate has cropped up in several forums over the years (this is not the only forum I have been a part of)--but this is the best I too use a red light over my 55g tank for night time viewing, and the whole "cool" effect is not why a red light is used. When I first setup my light, it was not red but white and the tank looked "cool" at night. However, I noticed that the fish were drawn to the light because it was like moonlight and thus normal light. However, when I installed a red light (actually strips that made the white light red) the tank still looked "cool" but the fish were not drawn to it. I do not know if your fish are drawn to the light, but if they are I suggest buying a red cover for the light. I like your stand.

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2002 9:09 am Post subject:

So far all I have for fish is an algae crew of ottos and SAE. They behave normally with the blue light. They are a little more active at night, but have never exhibited any tendancy to move to the light.

The stand will officially hold a volkswagen bug. I love using the workbench legs. The sides are just bolted on. When it comes time to move I can disassemble the whole thing.

I am thinking about putting a liner in the bottom of the stand. I end up spillin water everyonce in a while when doing the filters. Idea for now is wither to line it with heavy mil plastic or using a clothes washer base.

P.S> I have upgaded the fan to 100cfm which is louder but tolerable and am using a semi-open hood. CO2 is up on a milwaukee controller. Reactor is going great. Pics of all to follow.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 4:07 am Post subject:

Here's the current tank with 220w (of 330w) running.










Here's shot of the semi-open hood. 









This is the same hood as before mounted using a 30" piano hinge on the back. In order to keep it open, I have two small wood blocks cut at angles and wedged in the back. I imagine I'm losing some light too deflection because of the angle striking the water, but with the AHSupply reflectors, it seem negligable within the tank. 









The reason the hood can be "semi-open" is because of heat. I did not create a lot of extra space in the hood for air. If the hood is closed the lights drive the water into the high 80's. A small fan(3", ~20CFM) was added which kept the temp to 78F. I got a new 4" fan off of ebay (100cfm) which can keep the temp down to 74F even if I close the hood. To help keep vibration down, the fan is mounted to the hood using an old neoprene mouse pad as a gasket. Below the fan, is a 10"x23"x3/8" glass cut and sanded by the local glass shop ($11). The glass is there to keep the fan from createing excesive agitation which will cool more (72F), but also result in CO2 loss.


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

walpurgis999
Happy Gardener-frequent member



Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 7:57 am Post subject: 



That hood is absolutely beautiful. I love the marble finish you have on it. Your tank looks like it has cost you over $1000 already--but who cares if you like it, right? You also gave me an idea. I have a nice canopy built for my 55g that uses shoplights. Before you go yuck, listen to what I did. I made a nice fixture out of white pine that is rectangular and has 3-4 inches of extra depth for air flow. I spray gunned (not spray painted) the hood so it looks professional, and installed two 4 inches fans on either end. I then went to Home Depot and bought 3 shoplights (which I now have replaced with 3 newer ones) and installed them. The newer version (all the lights were $7.00 a piece) can be used with only the endcaps, ballast, and a rectangular metal piece which I inverted and screwed the encaps into. Everything is grounded and the ballast is electronic (yes, I said electronic) instead of magentic. BUT! THE IDEA NOW! The fans vibrate quite a bit, so I am going to install a pad (like your mouse pad) to cut down on the vibration. My hood hangs over my tank, so my plants can grow out. Keep up the pictures, NICE! 

walpurgis999
Happy Gardener-frequent member


Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 7:57 am Post subject: 

That hood is absolutely beautiful. I love the marble finish you have on it. Your tank looks like it has cost you over $1000 already--but who cares if you like it, right? You also gave me an idea. I have a nice canopy built for my 55g that uses shoplights. Before you go yuck, listen to what I did. I made a nice fixture out of white pine that is rectangular and has 3-4 inches of extra depth for air flow. I spray gunned (not spray painted) the hood so it looks professional, and installed two 4 inches fans on either end. I then went to Home Depot and bought 3 shoplights (which I now have replaced with 3 newer ones) and installed them. The newer version (all the lights were $7.00 a piece) can be used with only the endcaps, ballast, and a rectangular metal piece which I inverted and screwed the encaps into. Everything is grounded and the ballast is electronic (yes, I said electronic) instead of magentic. BUT! THE IDEA NOW! The fans vibrate quite a bit, so I am going to install a pad (like your mouse pad) to cut down on the vibration. My hood hangs over my tank, so my plants can grow out. Keep up the pictures, NICE!


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 9:20 am Post subject:

No yucks in these forums. We all have different ideas and different budgets. If it works it works.

The paint is black gloss and gray primer. Both are Rustoleum outdoor. All of the wood got primed with the gray which dries in about 30 minutes. Then I poured the paints into the left and right sides of a paint tray and used a roller to apply it. Nothing fancy, just did both colors at once. You can use the same roller for a while before it gets muddled with the two colors.

Cut the mouse pad with a razor blade and use some small screws to hold it down. I added the glass underneath it to cut the surface agitation. In my case the air comes down, hits the glass and scatters all the heat out of the hood. When closed there are three vent holes the heat escapes. I may add a few more. Hole saws are so easy to work with its no big deal.

With the top propped open like this there is a lot of stress on the back hinge. So far it has been taking it with no problem, but I am constantly remined that I should have done that part of the hood with hardwood.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator

Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2002 8:34 pm Post subject:










Here's the underside of the cabinet. 
After some early spills I got a 36x17 sterlite storage box and put it under the cabinet. The filter and CO2 are in the box. The electrical is mounted to the top and run on the periphery.

CO2 is now automated using a Milwaukee PH controller, solenoid and reactor.

I am now running all 330w of light. The lighting is controlled using an x10 timer.

The hoses on the filters wee cut long enough to pull the filter out of the cabinet. The down side is that its a lot of hose to have to coil up when fitting it all under the cabinet.
_________________
James Hoftiezer


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## Steve Hampton (Feb 13, 2004)

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2002 5:14 am Post subject: 

To address KH/GH (both come out of the tap as 0-1), I added crushed coral to the filter. 

The first time I added 400g wrapped in a bundle inside an eheim pushing 275gph. It raised it (maybe) to a solid 1. 

Two days ago I used about 1000g in the same eheim but this time put it on top of a filter pad spead out for greater contact. KH 10, GH 8 with the ph at a constant 6.8. 


now I just need to find a happy medium to get it to 4/4. I'm going to pull 1/3 of the coral out and see where the readings go. I hope to post the equilibrium pooint soon.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction 


Svennovitch
Totally Awesome-Dedicated member


Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2002 6:29 am Post subject: 

Your tank is looking awesome! And i don't mean only the inside, but also the outside. Man, i envy your equipment!! This will turn out to be the best looking tank ever!! 
Congratulations!
_________________
Sven 


JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2002 8:04 am Post subject: 


Thank You 

P.S> I know I've said it a dozen times but I'll keep saying it. This tank is a product of these forums. There's a little bit of every person, opinion, thread, picture, tank and aquascape in this tank.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction 


jart
Java Baby-new member revisiting


Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2003 1:37 pm Post subject: 


"A 30" piano hinge allows the hood to be raised toa vertical position for maintenance. " 

sooo... exactly where did you find said hinges? 

i had the same idea some time ago and spent ages looking; finally decided on a different design. 

in fact, i had the latest revision all planned until i saw your pics. d'oh!! anyway, i would appreciate knowing where you found those hinges. btw, from what i understand, they're not really "piano hinges" per se, are they? 

regards, and tia. 


JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2003 7:37 pm Post subject: 

Welcome to the forums 

A piano hinge is just any real long hinge. You can find them in any home improvement/hardware center. They are usually on the hardware aisle where the door knobs and hinges are. 

I found 24", 30" and 36" for $6-9US
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction 


jart
Java Baby-new member revisiting


Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2003 7:50 pm Post subject: 

alright then it IS a piano hinge... 

looking at the 4th pic you posted, i was under the impression you were using some sort of fancy hinge pairs (one on each side). i thought there was, in existence somewhere, such a hinge that, when fully extended (ie when your light rack was fully vertical), would "lock" into place, until sufficient force was used to push it back down again. never did find such a beast. 

thanks for getting back to me. no need to tell you your setup looks great. 

regards 

jart 

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2003 2:10 am Post subject: 


There is something similar to what you are mentioning. They are used in cedar chests and blanket lockers. 

At one point I was going to use a screen door closer to lock the top up an make sure that it couldn't slam shut. In the end the angles didn't work, but I still think it was a really great idea. 

On the current hood, I just raise it to 90 degrees and let the tip rest against the wall. No magic.
_________________
James Hoftiezer 
Please see my journals; 
Tank Journal - 100g newbie 
New Tank Journal - Parts and Construction


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