# Establising a good Bio-filter in the Planted Tank



## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

Hi,

I've been over on the Barr Report a lot lately, so I thought I'd come back here and bug you folk a while.

Got a question about canisters and planted tanks. My latest tank is my first for both and I'm not sure my bio-filter is setting up as well as it should. I have a 90 g. with two Odyssea CFS4's I bought off Ebay. Four baskets, flow claimed @320GPH ea. {real about 160}, top down filter pattern. They came with a fitted foam block, ceramic rings, white rock bio media, and carbon to be placed in that order top down. I ditched the carbon and put pot scrubbers in the bottom basket. The baskets all have the nice brown patina that comes with a good bacteria colony and so do the rings, the rocks, and the scrubbers (they started out bright red, blue and yellow and now they're closer to the same color)

My problem is I still get a little NH4 on an API test (~.25ppm). No livestock losses but I have a Rhizoclonium issue I'm fighting and I think the NH4 is a contributor. I've ordered 2 liters of Seachem Matrix and will replace the scrubbers with it incrementally once it arrives.

-EI dosing w/added CaCl2 due to ridiculously soft water here (13ppm)
-Injected CO2: external reactor: yellowish green drop checker, Homemade 4dKH sol. ... no fish stress observed
-Flow to be augmented with a new Koralia Evo 750 on the way

Mostly interested with the filtration issue.

Thoughts?

Pat


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

Opps, I need to warn folks in case they want to try the CaCl2. This stuff is exothermic with water (makes heat) so don't "just try some".

When I mix mine I take the amount (Actual amount withheld to protect the impulsive) and add it to 1 liter of distilled water and the temp goes from room temp, say, 75F to nearly 100F fast. I then let it cool to room temp before I add it to the tank.

A word to the wise ... I hope.

Pat


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi Pat,

You are absolutely correct, when using CaCl I mix it with water outside the tank and pour it in after it dissolves. Don't want my fish to get "hot mouth"! LOL!

Do you have the NH4 on a continuous basis? Is it always about the same reading? Have you calibrated the Ammonia test, sometime a test kit is bad. You might try checking some distilled water and see if you get a NH4 reading.


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

Pretty constant but no, I haven't calibrated my test kit yet.

Might just be chasing my tail here, huh?

Pat

P.S. What do you think of Seachem Matrix? Good stuff?


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

What is the level of carbonates (KH) in the tank? 
Nitrifying bacteria also need several minerals that are usually best represented by GH and KH over about 3 German degrees of hardness. (Roughly 50 ppm)

Are you also adding any magnesium? Calcium is of course very important, but Mg is, too. Perhaps some Epsom salt. I think there is not enough in CSM+B (if that is what you are using for traces), and 13 ppm in the tap is not enough to assume there is Mg or Ca (there is, but nowhere near enough of either). 

I would think that EI (including traces such as CSM+B or other) would have enough other minerals for these bacteria.


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

Oops, guess I should have included the Epsom salts .... adding that too.

As for KH, its really low. Here is the area CCR from the water company:
http://www.daphneutilities.com/daphne/2006%20Daphne%20PDF.pdf://

That has it down at 8.13 ppm max and as low as 0 and no, nothing for that yet but I have plans for the addition of sodium bicarb after the fish get acclimated to the higher GH (just started the CaCl2 this week)

As for ferts ... yeah, the standard EI recommendation KNO3, KH2PO4, CSM+B, at std. rate for 80g water column. 3x per week + 50%WC weekly and Ghbooster (more WC's lately doing battle with the Rhizo)

Pat


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Perhaps the problem is the extremely low KH. 
I would add some baking soda to keep the KH at least 2 degrees, maybe 3. (35-50 ppm)


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## f1ea (Jul 7, 2009)

How long have the filters/tank been running and what are your water temperatures? colder water will take longer to cycle. So, if its a really new tank get your temps to at least 78-80F. 

Also, make sure you have enough plants. You may have low plant mass (or slow growers), and little light (either short duration or intensity).


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## pat w (Nov 2, 2009)

Diana,

I'm working on the KH. Slowly bringing it up a little each WC (every two days - 50%-60%) as I battle the Rhizo. You're not the first to suggest it but I wasn't aware it could have a real impact on the bio-filter. I started Tuesday of last week and should have it up around 6dKH by Sunday.

F1ea,

Temp is 76/77 and I have a good planting of the following:
Lindernia rotundifolia 'Variagated'
Rotala indica
Polygonum sp 'Sao Paulo'
Hemianthus micranthemoides

All except the Rotala is showing very good growth esp. since I increased the overall flow in the tank with a new Koralia Evo 750 and began to increase my CO2 (gradually). Recently the new Polygonum leaves have been noticably longer and the Lindernia leaves are larger and have a healther brighter color so I think I'm making some headway.

Soon I hope to get access to a PAR meter to tweek in the light which may be a little on the high side. I'm in the process of building brackets to suspend the lights and raise them further above the tank which should give the adjustment I need.

Thanks for all the help.

Pat


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