# HELP & ADVICE: Planted Tank : Mineralized Soil : Tear-Down & Restoration



## Tyger (Jan 2, 2011)

*BACKGROUND:*

I have 65-Gallon (36x18x24) that I am planning to renovate on several levels. First and the primary reason for this post, I am going to pull the undergravel filter and convert from pure Eco-Complete to a mineralized soil substrate (GWAPA-AT Mixture). In addition, I plan to use the empty tank opportunity to reconfigure a couple of things: (1) pull the undergravel filter as noted; (2) add inline diffuser, heater, and possibly uv-sterilizer), (3) run 5/8-inch line instead of 3/4-inch filter tube-lines, (4) installing two black tubes to surround mircobubble airstones to provide extra oyxgenation whiel limiting surface disturbance as tiger hillstream loaches benefit from richer oxygen levels and I love these fish, (5) upgrading lighting catalina to tek-light to maximize reflected light given tank depth, and (6) installing lighting stand arms or ceiling hanging unit.

*MINERALIZE SOIL & RENOVATION:*

In any case, I am in the process of converting from purely Eco-Complete to a mineralized soil substrate. Consequently, I thought I would share some of my thoughts and ask some questions to benefit from the experience and knowledge of others. As I understand it, Aaron's Mineralized Soil (GWAPA-AT Mixture) consists of the following: Top Soil (Mineralized); Pottery Clay; Dolomite; Muriate of Potash; Gravel (Eco-Complete Black). In this regard, I was wondering a few things:

_Top Soil Question_ - I purchased a Cowart Premium Top Soil (40-lbs) which seems like the right stuff in terms of the 'no additives.' Although I just started the process of mineralizing topsoil, I was just running the calculations. I was reading that "a good average density for topsoil is 100 pounds per cubic foot" (Wiki). When I consider that my tank is about 4.5 square feet and I am looking to cover the bottom with mineralized topsoil to a depth of about 1.25-1.50 inches with 3-sided gravel frame, I am still looking at filling 4.0-4.25 square-feet and figure I need 55-60-lbs for straight coverage. When I consider the addition of clay and sand additives against the soil compression and soil lost in mineralization process, I figure I am still about 10-15-lbs short with a single bag.
Question: Is this a reasonable guestimation - which boils down to getting an extra bag of top soil and, on the good news side, having extra soil for future smaller tanks.

_Questions About Pottery Clay_ - As I understand it the clay services two purposes: (1) a source of iron and (2) binds with soil as a flocculating agent which will help the soil to settle back to the bottom of the tank when plants are uprooted or disturbed. In addition, I read that, at least at one point, Tom Barr wrote that he added sand to the soil to for the same purpose at a 1:1 ratio (I think I remember it was a 50/50 soil to sand). So, I guess that I had a couple of questions:
I was wondering what the general thoughts were regarding florite sand versus clay as both sources of iron and flocculating agents... what are folks thoughts on using clay alone, sand alone, or both clay and sand? If a mixture, what are thoughts on ratios soil:clay:sand?
I guestimate that I need about 4.5 to 5.5 lbs of clay to get ratio of 90/10 soil/sand - correct? In terms of clay, I noticed a lot of clay has additives. Is this appropriate saw this clay? Anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase the appropriate clay?
If sand is a part of the equation, I was wondering about using the new Black Florite Sand?

_Question About Dolomite_ - As I understand it, the dolomite (1) provide plants with the necessary calcium and magnesium they need for healthy growth and (2) that the calcium and magnesium in the dolomite will also help to keep the soil from becoming too acidic. Similarly, I read on "Setting-Up A Walstad Natural Planted Tank," if the soil is acidic, you can use powdered dolomite lime mixed, if you have soft water add pelleted dolomite lime or crushed shells to gradually increase the level of hard water nutrients over time. Okay, I am not sure that I understand the advice completely. I have pretty soft water (due, I believe, to water in Annapolis, MD and four cypress knees arranged in groups of two - tank water is 0-1 KH though I do add Baking Soda to keep at 4-6 KH). Of course, I would prefer not to have to add Baking Soda. In addition, I have noted that I have under 20mg/l (ppm) according to NutraFin Ca Freshwater Test.
So, I guess my question is what do folks recommend - dolomite? dolomite pellets? crushed shells? both?
Any recommendations as to where to purchase dolomite or dolomite pellets and/or crushed shells that would be good for the task?

_Questions About Muriated Potash_ - As I understand it, "pot ash" is added as an initial potassium source. I remember reading though I cannot remember where... that someone believed muriated potash was responsible for their initial difficulties keeping shrimp. As I keep two bamboo shrimp, several amanos, and numerous cherry shrimp, I was wondering whether or not this is true?
Does muriated potash present problems for shrimp? What have others experienced? Obviously, I would rather just dose potassium than lose my shrimp (lol, trying to catch them to put them in a holding tank is going to be a challenge as it is...).
Where would I get muriated potash?

_Questions About Capping Substrate_ - I have been using Eco-Complete Black for the last year and I have found it is pleasing too view (nice contrast to plants, petrified wood (stone), and wood), does a pretty good job holding stems until rooted, and seems to suit the fish and shrimp (i.e., not to rough for tiger hillstream loaches, cories, or shrimp). In researching the web, I have read that a lot of folks are using it for cap with great effect.
Is there any other advice or things to know about capping with Eco-Complete?

*OTHER QUESTIONS:*

I have never done a major tank renovation. In terms of the actual change-over, I wanted to get some advice regarding tear-down and restoration of the tank. Generally speaking, I planned drain my current tank into storage tank and bins to hold flora and fauna while I do the tear-down. I should be able to preserve most of it (30-40 gallons of the 65-gallons). I understand how to set-up the mineralized soil recipe to the tank. I will leave the water in the tubes and Canister Filter (about 3-4 gallons). I will keep the current gravel wet with original tank water and use it as a cap plus add another bag of fresh Eco-Complete to the mixture. I plan to use the tank water as the base and fill the rest with tap and use a full dose of Prime as well as Stress-Eyzme. I plan to restart the tank with plants and run for a time to let things settle prior to adding the fauna back to the tank. While I have the basics, I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

Given the outlined plan, I was wondering how long I should wait until I add the fauna back into the tank. Obviously, I will test water parameters along the way though I was wondering what would be a rought estimate of time. If it would help to know the specific fauna, I have the following:
Inverts: zebra nerites, assassin snails, amano shrimp, bamboo shrimp, and cherry shrimp
Fish: Cories (Julii), Otos (Affins), True SAE, Tiger Hillstream Loaches, Cardinal Tetras, Celestial Dianos, Cherry Barbs, White Clouds (Long-Finned), Red Velvet Swordtails (Hi-Fin, Lyretail), and Angels.

Given the outlined plan, I was wondering about any special care for plants which I plan to transfer to holding bin with original tank water - just long enough to make the changes to the tank I want to make.
Plants: Aciotis acuminifolia, Anubias barteri (nana & nana 'petite'), Anubias hastfolia, Blyxa Japonica, Cambomba Caroliniana (Green & Silver), Cryptocoryne Nurii, Hyptis lorentziana, Hygrophila (Araguaia & odora), Lagenandra Meeboldii, Ludwigia (Rebens & Sp. Red), Ludwigia senegalensis, Najas roraima, Persicaria praetermissa, Pogostemon Helferi, Pogostemon erectus, Rotala (sp. Colorata), and Staurogyne (Porto Velho).

Obviously, I plan to maximize what I am to accomplish during this renovation and, so, am doing a lot. I am open to advice, questions, comments, and such. I find that I always benefit from the advice and wisdom of others. Thank-you, in advance, for your time and thoughts.

~Tyger (Michael)~


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## JeffyFunk (Apr 6, 2006)

Whew! That's quite a list of plants you have growing there. If you're able to keep those plants, you must know more than you think.



Tyger said:


> Question: Is this a reasonable guestimation - which boils down to getting an extra bag of top soil and, on the good news side, having extra soil for future smaller tanks.


Mineralized soil is pretty nutrient rich. Therefore, you can use less of it than you think and still provide a good substrate for growing plants. (0.75 to 1.00'' would be good). The mineralization process is mildly annoying and time consuming so mineralizing two bags at once so you have extra is a nice thing to do if you have the capacity to do it.



Tyger said:


> I was wondering what the general thoughts were regarding florite sand versus clay as both sources of iron and flocculating agents... what are folks thoughts on using clay alone, sand alone, or both clay and sand? If a mixture, what are thoughts on ratios soil:clay:sand?


I've only made mineralized soil once and i did not add sand to it. I continue to get good plant growth from that tank. The clay that you linked looks fine. If you are still not sure, I would write to the manufacturer and ask them. The clay products that you want to avoid are those that don't dry out since they contain polymers to keep it pliable (like play-do). I can't remember the name of the clay I use, but I got a similar large brick of clay from a local craft store, like ****blick.



Tyger said:


> So, I guess my question is what do folks recommend - dolomite? dolomite pellets? crushed shells? both? Any recommendations as to where to purchase dolomite or dolomite pellets and/or crushed shells that would be good for the task?


I've used dolomitic lime in my substrate to provide Ca & Mg to my plants. (I don't know what my hardness is as I've never tested it). You can purchase dolomitic lime from any good garden center. Just be sure not to use hydrated lime as that is a fast acting, dangerous form of Ca(OH)2. Ask the sales rep. for advice on their lime products.



Tyger said:


> Does muriated potash present problems for shrimp? What have others experienced? Obviously, I would rather just dose potassium than lose my shrimp (lol, trying to catch them to put them in a holding tank is going to be a challenge as it is...). Where would I get muriated potash?


I don't have shrimp so I would not know how to answer that question. As to where to get potash, you can also get that at a good garden center. (Muriate of potash = KCl). You can also purchase it in the supermarket as a sodium chloride (aka "Salt") substitute.



Tyger said:


> Is there any other advice or things to know about capping with Eco-Complete?


As with any soil sub-layer, make sure you have enough capping material over top of the soil or mineralized soil or you will end up w/ a muddy tank. As for specific advice about Eco-complete? never used it. Soil sub-layers can be tricky in general and usually the problem is people disturb the layers so that the soil or mineralized soil can get into the water column.


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## Tyger (Jan 2, 2011)

JF,

Thank-you, I apprecite your thoughts and guidance. In addition to composition and set-up of mineralized soil, I would benefit from advice and thoughts related to handling fauna (inverts-fish) transition-from-aquarium-to-holding and to holding environment while renovating and to post-renovation transition-back to aquarium. 

~Tyger (Michael)~


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## mudboots (Jun 24, 2009)

Keep them in the same water and do slow acclimations. I like the drip methods when moving fish from one spot to another.


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