# Filter cleaning and powerhead questions



## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

Hello,
I just set up my first tank (used), and I have a couple of equipment questions. I have a 75 gallon long tank, currently planted with young plants. I have a Fluval 304 filter, and a Penguin 550 powerhead.

First, how often do I clean the filter? How do I clean it? Any tips on how NOT to get water everywhere when I take this out? Should I disconnect the filter and then rinse everything in there, or do I just rinse the foam pads? I have carbon, biomax, and some other type of media in there that's similar to the biomax. The biomax and the carbon are new, but the other media came with the used filter. I rinsed all of it before I set up the tank.

Second, I have the powerhead, but have yet to use it because I don't have the mounting bracket. The powerhead was used in a saltwater tank, and has sand and debris in it. Can I get this thing wet? I was thinking of using an old toohbrush and a hose to clean it out. Is there a way to safely take this apart to clean it better?

Also, I'm not sure I understand how this works. It looks like it doesn't get totally submerged, and looks like it just hangs on the side of the tank at the top. There is an air line hook up on the powerhead, but I'm not sure what it's for. I thought you just put these on the tank, plugged it in, and then it would kick on and start moving water around. Do I need to attach an air line to it?

Thanks so much,
Cat


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## Big_Fish (Mar 10, 2010)

Hi, Cat.....
I'm no expert on the Fluval 304, (although I know it's a heck of a good filter) but I can get you started on some basics.
in a FISH ONLY tank, filter carbon is essential for converting or removing build up of nasty chemicals that are harmful to fish.
(this is called Chemical filtration)
in a PLANTED tank, the carbon often removes the very same chemicals (aka fertilizers) that the plants REQUIRE... remove the carbon from the filter. the plants themselves do the job that the carbon did previously.

as for the filter itself, either/both hoses will act as a siphon when you disconnect them from the filter (assuming the filter is BELOW the tank). there are a couple different ways to prevent dumping a couple gallons of water on the floor, use whatever works best for you:
1) raise the filter ABOVE THE TANK'S WATERLINE while disconnecting the hoses. (however, doing this may dump some dirty water back into the tank) 
2) there MAY be checkvalves available, these would prevent the bulk of water from dumping out, and should prevent siphoning from occurring. 
3) put the entire filter inside a bucket first. when you disconnect the hoses water goes into the bucket, not onto the floor. (again, the hoses WILL siphon tank water out... raise the open ends above the waterline)

the powerhead:
(Big al's has the mounting bracket available for 4 bucks)
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsU...0/marinelandpenguinpowerheadadjustablebracket

a powerhead (at least this one specifically) IS COMPLETLY SUBMERSIBLE. in your tank, this is a PUMP, not a filter. the only thing this powerhead does is suck water in from the bottom (the pointy end) and blow it out the top. 
I'd rinse it well, then soak it in 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for an hour or so. then rinse again VERY well. no bleach smell.
it also could not hurt to soak it in some dechlorinator, JUST to make sure the chlorine is gone.

the 'Air line hook up' is the venturi. often these powerheads are used to mix gas (o2, co2, etc) with the water. 
you should not need the venturi, unless you're planning to add pressurized Co2.

sorry for writing a book  
I hope it helps.


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## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

Thanks so much! That helped alot! Since my filter is in the cabinet below the tank, I think sitting it in a bucket is the way to go. Not sure if I will be able to get the intake tube out of the water before I detach it though. In fact, I'm pretty sure I can't. So, I will just have to make sure the water siphons into the bucket and then get the tube out of the tank as quickly as possible.

How often should I clean the filter? I've been adding and replanting plants here and there and have subsequently kicked up a lot of silt. I've done a few water changes to get rid of some of that, but I bet the inside of the filter is coated with it. When I clean it, should I rinse everything, or just the foam pads?

When I remove the carbon, what should I replace it with? Do you think really young plants (they were just cut from the parent plants about a week ago or so) will do the job the carbon is doing? Tonight I am going to the LFS to get some more mature plants wich should help, but I am also getting a couple of siamese algae eaters. Will that effect what I replace the carbon with? (these will be my first fish, as there is nothing but snails in there right now )

And the powerhead - since it's submersible, do I just sit it in the bottom of the tank, or is there some type of bracket for setting it up at the bottom? The bracket you linked to and the one I found both look like they're only for hanging it from the top.

Again, thanks so much!
Cat


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## Big_Fish (Mar 10, 2010)

when to clean the filter really depends on how often it gets dirty.... (SURPRIZE!  ) once a month, possibly less often.

again, I'm not an expert with canister filters, but they are designed to remove particulates. (among other things  ) the filter media is what should stop that silt/particulate matter from entering the pump part of the filter, so hopefully you should not find that silt everywhere. 
you may find it helpful to rinse the entire filter for the first couple cleanings, but only since it's used. (you should also be able to see for yourself what does get through the media)

remember, that filter houses beneficial bacteria... you DON'T want to sterilize the filter when you clean it... just rinse.

I've heard of people replacing the carbon with bioballs, (which are nothing but plastic balls that have lots of surface area for the beneficial bacteria to colonize) ceramic rings (which do the same job as bioballs) or just leaving that part empty.

I looked again at the powerhead attachment bracket.. 
it looks like there's also a suction cup that connects the bracket to the tank wall so you can put the powerhead where you want it.
as I mentioned, the powerhead will ONLY move water around the tank... I'd only use it if I felt the need for more water movement, (or to add co2)

frankly, for the cost of the bracket and suction cup you could buy a hagan mini elite internal filter and not worry about it, or skip the powerhead completely.
http://www.petco.com/product/13796/Hagen-Elite-Mini-Underwater-Filter.aspx


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Here is the operating manual for the Fluval 304:
http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/Fluval_Manual_082002.pdf

They made a product change and did not change the product number. Look very carefully at the top of the filters in the picture. There are 2 levers on the top where the hoses come into the filter. One is grey and is pretty obvious. The other is blue and sits in a bit of a depression on the top of the filter.

This is the Aqua-Stop system. If your filter has this, then cleaning is really easy. If yours has only one lever then it is a bit more difficult.

1) Lift up the grey lever. 
2) Unplug the filter.
3) Lift the blue lever. This will remove both hoses and the valves they are attached to. There may be a few drips, but a small towel is plenty to absorb it. 
4) Lift the two handles on the sides of the filter. Careful, as these are lifted you are removing the top of the filter, and it is open. Water could spill. 
5) set the top aside, on a towel or on something that is OK to get wet. There may be as much as 1/8 cup of water in there.
6) Remove the box of the filter from the cabinet. Caution: it is filled with water and can spill. 
7) Dump the water into a bucket. Have more water available, perhaps in another bucket. (used aquarium water is best)
8) take apart everything inside the filter box, rinse in the used water (both from the tank and from the filter is OK) and re-assemble. 
9) Return to the lid. You can unclip the cover over the impeller, and clean the impeller, but this cover is very delicate, and the clips break off very easily. If things are working, I do not clean this every time. Less disturbance the better. Inspect the O-ring. No need to disturb it, but make sure there is no dirt there. About once a year I add a little petroleum jelly or olive oil to the O-ring (Remove it, clean it and the slot it fits in and oil it)
10) Put things back together:
a) Top onto box. Here is another product change: The newer 304s have handles with slots. (Not like the ones in the picture) They can be closed at the same time. Press down gently on the top and operate both handles together. If yours looks like the picture, the handles are solid, I have found this type to work better one handle at a time. Still press down gently on the top, but just operate one handle at a time. 
b) Put the hoses back on. Operate the first lever (the blue one) then the grey one. When you move the grey one down the water in the hose will run into the box, and this will start the siphon that will fill the box. Make sure the intake is under water in the tank. Some water may spit out of the spray bar or outlet. 
c) When the filter is full of water, plug it in. There may be a few seconds of rattling as the last of the air is expelled, but it should start right up.

Touble shooting: If it does not fill with water or restart there are 2 ways to fix this: The official way, and the way that works. 
The official way: Operate the plunger on the top of the unit that is supposed to pump water to start the siphon until you get disgusted and give up. 
My way: Aim a power head or pump in through the intake tube and pump enough water into the box to fill it. Water, diven by the pump will come out of the outlet of the filter. Then, with the pump still running, plug in the filter. ***Caution: this means you will have your hands inside the tank while you are running electricity. This can be dangerous. Make sure your aquarium equipment is plugged into a GFI protected outlet***

Power heads are usually hung from a bracket that can be placed near the top of the tank, or a suction cup bracket that can be placed lower in the tank. Do not place it so low that the intake can pick up sand or gravel from the substrate. The venturi feature will only work when the powerhead is fairly close to the surface.


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## CatG (Apr 10, 2010)

Excellent information! This is very helpful! I appreciate the detailed responses very much!

Thanks so much guys!
Cat


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