# I need help with new 15 gallon PT



## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)

im new to planted tanks so bare with me..this is my first attempt..i made a DIY Co2 injections system but decided not to use it last minute, because of how ugly it made the tank look. the diffuser also took up 1/4 of the tank... im using Seachem Flourish Excel instead of the Co2 injection.










tank size: 15 gallon - 24'' X 12'' X 12''

wood: Malaysian drift wood and cactus wood (u can see the cactus wood floating at the top near the light)

plants are as follows:

- java moss
- java fern
- Hygrophila Polysperma.
- Crypts
- vallesneria

i still want Marsilea quadrifolia ( four leaf clover ) preferably the dwarf one. i also want Anubias.
the search continues.

substrate:
bottom layer - ADA Amazonia aquasoil ( black )
Top layer - Eco complete Amazonian ( dark red )

lighting: 6700K Coral life - 2 X 9 watt 9'' fluorescent compact strip

future tank inhabitants include:

2 Corydoras Blochi (C32)

1 Flash Pleco (L204) - Panaque sp.

6 guppies

10 cherry shrimp

can anyone recommend a light to use in conjunction with the one i already have? i have this one here: http://www.bigalsonline.ca/BigAlsCA/...iaqualight2x9w

im open to any comments and suggestions.


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## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)




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## Philosophos (Mar 1, 2009)

More light? Unless you're going to put the CO2 in and dose some excel, I wouldn't go much higher. High light is going to cause you algae problems unless you can keep up. Your plant stock and wish list should do just fine; all hearty plants. At most maybe up the wattage, but raise the lights higher for better distribution.

-Philosophos


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## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)

ive been told by lots of people that 18 watts inst enough for a 15 gallon. only about 1/3 of the tank has light. its 24'' long tank and the light is only 9'' long... i dont wanna go crazy with light.. i just need a bit more... i doe 1.5 ml of excel everyday except water change days, where i do 10 ml after w/c.

can anyone recommend a light to use in conjunction with the one i already have?


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## Philosophos (Mar 1, 2009)

18w over 15g could be improved to help growth with touchier plants, but I can't see why your stock would demand it. I've kept all of the plants you've listed, and outside of maybe the polysperma, it's all very low demand.

If you don't mind a little DIY, I've got one idea. Grab another of the exact same light, and put it on your tank. If algae shows up, raise it a couple of inches by suspending the lighting (or adding legs). Wait for a response, repeat as necessary until the algae begins to fall back. If the plants suffer despite the reduction in algae, get a little DIY CO2 going for less than $20. Grab some excel if you really want to nail things down.

While you're at it, you may find your self wanting to use a bit of trace elements depending on your water source. Macros can be provided through substrate, feeding or dosing depending on where you end up settling.

-Philosophos


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## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)

Philosophos said:


> 18w over 15g could be improved to help growth with touchier plants, but I can't see why your stock would demand it. I've kept all of the plants you've listed, and outside of maybe the polysperma, it's all very low demand.
> 
> If you don't mind a little DIY, I've got one idea. Grab another of the exact same light, and put it on your tank. If algae shows up, raise it a couple of inches by suspending the lighting (or adding legs). Wait for a response, repeat as necessary until the algae begins to fall back. If the plants suffer despite the reduction in algae, get a little DIY CO2 going for less than $20. Grab some excel if you really want to nail things down.
> 
> ...


i already use the excel everyday, my light doesn't cover my whole tank thats what im worried about.. i dont think my light is full spectrum, do i need a full spectrum light for long term plant growth?

is trace elements fertilizer? is it needed with the plants ive chosen?

thanks.


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## Philosophos (Mar 1, 2009)

You can get distribution through raising the height of the bulb further from the surface of the water. If wattage drops too low, more light can be added, even at a 2nd height. It's no different than playing with flashlights in that regard.

Being paranoid about spectrum is a hobby of planted tank keepers. If you're running coralife, odds are it's good enough. People will complain about their 50/50 actinic, but even that will grow plants just fine.

Micros would be micronutrients. They can be gotten in reliable doses through intentional fertilization, but there are other methods. Whether or not you need fertilizers is all about how much demand you put on your tank, and how often your water gets changed. Water changes can act as fertilizers; tap water contains nutrients. Some contains more, some less. Most of their uptake depends on light and CO2 levels.

I suppose the real question here is what you want out of this. Do you want answers that will let you accomplish a single goal, enough to have a decent tank in your living room? Do you want a small project on the side to tinker with? Do you want to hit that obsession level where sometimes the hobby competes with the vitals? It's all a personal thing, and different levels of understanding require a different amount of interest.

-Philosophos


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## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)

Philosophos said:


> You can get distribution through raising the height of the bulb further from the surface of the water. If wattage drops too low, more light can be added, even at a 2nd height. It's no different than playing with flashlights in that regard.
> 
> Being paranoid about spectrum is a hobby of planted tank keepers. If you're running coralife, odds are it's good enough. People will complain about their 50/50 actinic, but even that will grow plants just fine.
> 
> ...


im very interested in maintaining my plants health, growth is nice to but i would rather keep them alive then worry about them growing too slowly.

the tap water here is:

40ppm KH

25ppm GH

ph is 6.8

would u recommend traces? 

do i need to use other fertilizers too? or would Excel and Traces be enough for what im trying to accomplish with the plants mentioned above?

thanks


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## Philosophos (Mar 1, 2009)

Your need for ferts is going to depend on your light level, and water change frequency. 

If you make a fish waste slurry out of your column through infrequent water changes and heavy feeding, you don't need much for macros, but you might need a little micro now and then. I'm sure a bit of excel would be welcomed.

If you go with medium light and/or frequent water changes, then you may consider tossing in a good mix of NPK plus traces, plus some CO2 and excel.

High light is going to turn in to DIY NPK, and using something like CSM+B, TPN, or Flourish as a trace with maybe some iron on the side.

What you basically need to do here is settle on what method you want to use. From there, it'll be easier for you to figure out how the rest should be run.

-Philosophos


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## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)

Philosophos said:


> Your need for ferts is going to depend on your light level, and water change frequency.
> 
> If you make a fish waste slurry out of your column through infrequent water changes and heavy feeding, you don't need much for macros, but you might need a little micro now and then. I'm sure a bit of excel would be welcomed.
> 
> ...


 i plan on buying a 28 watt 24'' lamp to work with my 18 watt 9'' lamp. so i think ill go with option 2, ill see how things go with just using the Excel and traces, if problems occur i may purchase a real diffuser and incorporate a DIY reactor. i plan on doing weekly 1/3 wcs.

now what i really want to learn is how to carpet


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## Philosophos (Mar 1, 2009)

I'd predict algae blooms until you've got compressed CO2 and a stable fert method going. Test it for your self though. I never learned a thing until I figured out what didn't work, then tried what did. I still try to remove variables just to prove to my self that this is what is required to keep a healthy tank.

-Philosophos


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## DVS Moss (Jun 1, 2009)

Philosophos said:


> I'd predict algae blooms until you've got compressed CO2 and a stable fert method going. Test it for your self though. I never learned a thing until I figured out what didn't work, then tried what did. I still try to remove variables just to prove to my self that this is what is required to keep a healthy tank.
> 
> -Philosophos


can u make any recommendations to prevent this and to keep my plants alive?


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## Philosophos (Mar 1, 2009)

Compressed CO2. Lots of it. Focus on making sure it's done right. Many people spend a lot of time tinkering with nutrients, but it's usually the CO2 that's the issue. Along with that, find a fertilization method you like, there's a few hanging around. 

For small tanks, EI is very easy; so long as cumulatively 50% of your water is changed a week, you don't need to use test kits. So 10% a day, 30% twice a week, 50% once a week etc. will all work. 

The ferts for this method, and most other high light/high tech are best done DIY; it's cheaper, and you have more control. Other somewhat similar methods would include PMDD and PPS Pro; less water changes for both, but require testing and test kit calibration.

If you've got money to burn, you can go the ADA route. Buying the products and following the method will yeild great results, but you may not learn much about what's actually going on in your tank. ADA is a business, rather than an individual sharing their method; they have trade secrets. Same thing goes with Seachem and all the rest.

Every method has its up and down sides. Once you figure out which one sounds good, do some reading, buy the fertilizers you need, and carry on.

-Philosophos


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