# Ambulias and filamentous algae



## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

Hey everyone, some info about my tank before we get to the problem:
37-gallon rainbow community tank
78F, iron .3ppm, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 25, kH 6, one Nutrafin fermentation CO2 supply.

One Amazon sword mother plant, several small ones, several java moss clumps, 2 Anubias, some Ambulias.

I have a problem with my Ambulias getting covered in filamentous algae. I just cut it way back to a few sprouts to try and slow down the problem. The filamentous algae only shows up on it and some of the Telanathera I used to have. I've seen the ottos nibble on the algae on the Ambulias, but the Ambulias is just a magnet for the stuff and the older growth is always covered in it.

Any ideas on getting rid of the algae?


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Welcome to APC :biggrin:

You may not be getting enough C02 in the tank with the Nutrifin system. You need to keep the C02 level at a steady 20-30ppm. Take the PH & KH and find out how much is in your tank with this caculator.

Your nitrate (N03) levels are a little high, try getting them down to around 10ppm. You don't mention the phosphates (P04) levels, they need to be at 1ppm. These two nutrients if not in balance can cause algae.

You should put a lot more plants in your tank, especially fast growing plants to soak up nutrients that the algae also feeds on. You should not be seeing any ammonia levels with a well planted tank.

Also you don't mention what type of lighting/wattage you have and how long the lights are on daily... You should have the lights on for 10-12 hours daily and between 2-3wpg.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

I have a Corallite Gro-Light I keep on about 14 hours. 

I'm not sure about the phosphate, I have always heard they are difficult to measure.

The nitrates are actually at a personal low at the moment. I've had a running battle with them in this aquarium since I set it up in the summer. I'd say I change at least 1/3 of the water each week, performing gravel vaccuuming. 

I'm looking to get some sort of tall bunched plant to add (like Ambulias if I can get rid of the algae). The aquarium is a 37 tall so unfortunately it has a small footprint. The huge amazon sword shades about half the footprint. The various rocks and bogwood with java moss and Anubias are on most of the rest.

I'm trying to not get too intricate with a CO2 system right now as I'll be moving in June and I need to move the aquarium setup.

I'd post a picture, but I don't have any luck with aquarium photography. Do you have any good links for the subject?


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Lord Nibbler said:


> I have a Corallite Gro-Light I keep on about 14 hours.


Cut back to 12 hours daily. Put the light on a timer so it comes on and goes off at the same time everyday. I'm thinking you don't have enough light with this single bulb... What is the wattage?



> I'm not sure about the phosphate, I have always heard they are difficult to measure.


Very important to know. Get a regent test kit, seachem makes a good one. The color can be a little hard to read, but it will give you an idea where it is.



> The nitrates are actually at a personal low at the moment. I've had a running battle with them in this aquarium since I set it up in the summer. I'd say I change at least 1/3 of the water each week, performing gravel vaccuuming.


Keep up the water changes. You may want to add N03 absorber like Algone until you get more plants planted.



> I'm looking to get some sort of tall bunched plant to add (like Ambulias if I can get rid of the algae). The aquarium is a 37 tall so unfortunately it has a small footprint. The huge amazon sword shades about half the footprint. The various rocks and bogwood with java moss and Anubias are on most of the rest.


Since you have low light get some Hornwort, it grows like a weed and will soak up alot of the extra nutrients.



> I'm trying to not get too intricate with a CO2 system right now as I'll be moving in June and I need to move the aquarium setup.


All you need to do is hook up a extra bottle of DIY C02, which will give the plants the extra boost they need. That way you can alternate between replacing the mix giving you a more steady C02 reading.


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## Capt. (Nov 24, 2004)

Your ammonia is way too high and probably causing your algae problems. It should be at 0, especially in a tank that's been going for as long as yours. Any idea why you have a reading of 9 ppm?


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

Er, thats supposed to be ZERO. My finger must have slipped and I missed the typo.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

I've tried adding nitrate-absorbing media to my hanging filters, but it doesn't seem to do much. Water changes have been pretty effective though. The tap reads zero for nitrates. I'm sure everyone says this, but my tank is only slightly overcrowded if at all and I really don't overfeed.

I've read in some aquarium plant books that having the lights switch off for a couple of hours in the middle of the day cuts back on algae, as they can't start up their chlorophyll as quick as vascular plants. Is this effective at all?


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Lord Nibbler said:


> I've tried adding nitrate-absorbing media to my hanging filters, but it doesn't seem to do much. Water changes have been pretty effective though. The tap reads zero for nitrates. I'm sure everyone says this, but my tank is only slightly overcrowded if at all and I really don't overfeed.


I would be asking where are your nitrates are coming from in your tank, if your tap is reading zero nitrates. It may be that you are more than slightly overcrowded, you may want to take a second look at your stocking situation. To double check your tap readings get a read out from your local water company.



> I've read in some aquarium plant books that having the lights switch off for a couple of hours in the middle of the day cuts back on algae, as they can't start up their chlorophyll as quick as vascular plants. Is this effective at all?


There is no solid evidence of this being true. However some people swear by this method. As stated in the book Planted Aqauriums by Christel 
Kasselmann "it's unnatural and interrupts the photosynthesis process unnecessarily".


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

I'm still trying to get the KH constant in my aquarium. My tap water is extremely soft, and the KH will average about 3.0 if I don't add baking soda. Looking at the chart, I think adding a bit too much may have caused the mysterious deaths of 2 of my rainbows  Thinking about it, maybe that killed some of the bacteria and caused that mysterious nitrate spike as well, I had thought at the time the rainbows might have had nitrate poisoning (overly bright coloration, gasping at surface). Anyway, at least I learned how much to add.

I'll be home this weekend and I can check out my favorite aquarium store to pick up some supplies (like a phosphate testing kit).


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## mrbelvedere138 (Jan 18, 2006)

I love ambulia. Half of my 37 is planted with them. I suggest adding more. That might throw off the nitrate a little bit. Also, I recommend adding a little Excel to help with the lack of CO2. Try to buy the 2 liter bottle, it is a lot cheaper that way. Maybe you could dose potassium as well. You didn't mention dosing it, and that is often the limiting factor in planted aquariums. Flourish or Fluorish Potassium by Seachem is a good way to do this. You could switch to a canister filter to try and conserve CO2, or only use airstones at night if you have any. Ambulia is naturally a hair algae magnet, but when algae free it is beautiful. Also, you seem to have been gifted with soft water. I suggest frequent large water changes. If I had naturally soft source water I would change atleast 50 percent daily. But I don't, in fact I have liquid brick water, and I rely on R/O for my water changes.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

Although the water is soft, I wouldn't change that much as it is tap water. Even treated with cheleating conditioners, I'm still leery of using too much of it.

I use the Kent iron/potassium/trace element liquid a couple times a week.


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## John S (Jan 18, 2005)

its going to be hard with that little of light and no co2 he could add all the ferts that everyone said it going to be a battle to control the algea the biggest thing u should do is get that co2 up Lord Nibbler whats wrong with tap water i change my tank twice a week at 60 % nothing wrong with tap water and i got real soft water how often do u do wc and how much each time????


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## banderbe (Nov 17, 2005)

Lord Nibbler said:


> Although the water is soft, I wouldn't change that much as it is tap water. Even treated with cheleating conditioners, I'm still leery of using too much of it.
> 
> I use the Kent iron/potassium/trace element liquid a couple times a week.


My LFS uses Kent freshwater plant products and their plants are always covered in algae.

Ditch that stuff and pick up some raw ferts from http://www.gregwatson.com

Look under the PMDD store section for dry ferts.

Cheap, easy, and highly effective.

Also if your hob filter is creating much water disturbance it may make it harder to keep high CO2 levels.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

I purchased a phosphate kit and...yes, phosphate is a problem. It was up near 3mg/L! So I checked my tap water and it is near 1.5mg/L. I found this very strange as the tap water has no nitrates or iron, but the results are consistent. So what is a good way to remove phosphate? (Obviously, water changes won't help much using tap water).


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## banderbe (Nov 17, 2005)

Lord Nibbler said:


> I purchased a phosphate kit and...yes, phosphate is a problem. It was up near 3mg/L! So I checked my tap water and it is near 1.5mg/L. I found this very strange as the tap water has no nitrates or iron, but the results are consistent. So what is a good way to remove phosphate? (Obviously, water changes won't help much using tap water).


My phosphate is well over 6 mg/L and I have no algae.

The notion that phosphates cause algae is a myth, nothing more.

In fact, a phosphate level that is too low is more likely to cause algae.

You should read posts by 'plantbrain' and check out http://www.barrreport.com to learn more.


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## Lord Nibbler (Dec 22, 2005)

Cool, one less thing to worry about.

I checked the specs for my lighting and it is 85 watts, but the aquarium is an extra-high (a gift when I was a child, not much I could ask differently for at the time) so I will upgrade it (the lighting, not the aquarium!) when I get a free day to shop again.


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## banderbe (Nov 17, 2005)

Lord Nibbler said:


> Cool, one less thing to worry about.
> 
> I checked the specs for my lighting and it is 85 watts, but the aquarium is an extra-high (a gift when I was a child, not much I could ask differently for at the time) so I will upgrade it (the lighting, not the aquarium!) when I get a free day to shop again.


I think 85 watts over 37 gallons (which is probably only 31 gallons of actual water) is fine, even if your tank depth is "extra high", so you should save your money and focus on CO2 and fertilisation.

Once you make your plants happy the algae will have a much harder time getting a foothold.

How do you make plants happy? Lots of CO2, and no shortage of nutrients. That's why I like Tom Barr's Estimative Index method, especially for folks new to planted tanks.

I am working on my first tank and Tom's approach has worked great. Once you are up and running, you can slowly tweak your tank's variables and get a feel for what your plants need.


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