# 100 Gal Planted :)



## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Hey guys havent been on this forum in awhile. Just wanted to share some pics of my recent tank. feel free to suggest any changes to it. I dont claim to be an expert and ill be glad to hear some constructive criticism 

Tank mods:
100 gallon long (72"), 2 fluval 404s, t5ho lighting (468 watts with 12 blue moons at night, x6 6000k and x6 pink bulbs...i plan to change the pink bulbs to 6700k) 10 hours a day, co2 injected (just bought a kh test kit so not sure what the ppm is right now but its about 3-4 bps diffused via output hose with gravel tube attached) on a timer to turn off at night, flourite gravel, turbo twist x6 UVS, a whisper air pump (just for o2 exchange)

Current Dosing schedule Index method: (just started today seeing how it plays out)
1 tsp KNO3, 
1/2 tsp kh2po4, k2so4, csm+b, 
1/4 tsp cacl2, mgso4
Dosages done on M W F and Su* when 50-70% wc is done
I know im suppose to dose csm+b and kh2po4 on different days but i have a bad way of keeping record which day i did them on.
Usually i only dose Kno3, kh2po4, and Csm+b but im trying something new since i have all the chemicals anyway

Fish: Checkerboard pigion discus, 18 tiger barbs, 1 glass catfish, about 10 aus rainbows, a few corys, 5 blood fin tets, 6 rasbora hets, 2 clown loaches, sail fin pleco (hes gona go once i catch him since hes not doing a good job at eating any algae )

Driftwood stacked in the middle, plants are mainly wisteria, and others too lazy to list/dont know technical names for them 

Heres what tank looked like empty:









Then a few days later:









Then had problems with green water for 3 weeks then added the UV and it was amazing. 
(im assuming the tank didnt cycle all the way and i had added tons of fish even though my filters came off of a 55 gallon planted tank that cracked, i just moved everything over)

Before UV


















2 days after i added the UV (took 2 days, some people say within hours but i guess that depends on your filter)


















Ill get more pictures up soon.


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

The contrast between photo 1 and photo 5 is amazing. It really shows what plants bring to a tank. Great job! I like the way the wood hides the filter equipment, it reminds me of a reef aquarium.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Thanks a lot  the gravel was moved from a 55 to a 100 gallon so i was very light on it. Where the wood sits theres barely any gravel under it. I managed to grab some from my friend and his was a mixture of small pebbles and flourite. The gravel was a white color dominated mix so i just placed it right in the middle. I plan to keep it clean without any plants in it to make the aquascape look.

I also took out all the wood and rescaped it to make under caves for the schools to swim through...so far the discus is taking favor in the cave and hes in front instead of behind the wood now

Heres an updated picture:









Heres some of the fishes:


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## DonaldmBoyer (Aug 18, 2005)

Nice! I personally think that tiger barbs are under used and under appreciated fish that get a bad rap. If you keep them in groups like you should, they are really nice and very pretty tankmates! 

What happened to the discus?? Oh! Nevermind! You and I posted about the same time! I'm sure he appreciates his new home.

How do you like the serpaes?


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Tiger barbs were always one of my favorites, they are great schooling fish and always stick together, the only downside about them is they tend to get a little ugly as they get bigger developing greens and more blacks. Regardless a very great fish. 

the Red Minors (or serpaes) are considered one of my favorites as well! Reason being these guys are the first tropical egg scatterers that i managed to get babies from! i have 2 babies that are currently in a 5 gallon with just java moss and cherry shrimps/snails. I notice as they thrive they tend to get white outlinings on their tips. Superb schooling fish and when they're in heat they get great coloring


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

AheartlessFish said:


>


Lol can anyone else see the monster? The fish are just in the perfect spot 

I really like your choice of fish... those rainbows will color up once they age a bit more. Tank looks really nice and green... should fill in really nicely. Those serpaes are really red!

Keep in mind that in a long tank like this, water movement is key... you may need to add a powerhead or two in the future.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Thanks for commenting jart! I was thinking the same thing as well but i read up alot about aquarium planted tanks and how there shouldnt be any movement that way co2 isnt depleted immaturely and also that plants dont like movement?

I have two powerheads ready im just contemplating if i should hook them up or not  You cant see it in the picture but in the picture where you copied and pasted, if u look at the top right of where the wood seems to cave down a bit thats where i have one of the fluval nozzles pushing. It creates surface agitation but at the left and right end is where usually micro bubbles build up. I have a surface skimmer hooked up to one of the fluval intakes and that seems to do a decent job of sucking up the surface oils. Its right behind the wood to stay hidden but if i had a better choice id put it at one of the ends of the fish tank.

Ill try to get close up pictures of the plants and fish soon. Plants are doing good and are growing but the older ones are starting to either die off or brown up. I dont know what to do about that...seems like the top grows well but the bottom layers end up wilting a bit in color.


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## fishyjoe24 (May 18, 2010)

you have no problem with the tiger barbs nipping the fins of the discus?


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

the only nipped fins i ever have is ON the tigerbarbs...they arnt serious nips just for some reason they have nipped fins...i think aussie rainbows are more aggressive than the tigerbarbs. Discus is flawless no one ever bothers him. in a school of 18-20 they never bother any other fish. my clown loaches love to swim with them although recently i havent seen them, i think they figured that the barbs were not loaches and stopped schooling with them.

I also forgot to mention Jart, the reason why i have the rainbows is because i saw bigger ones with spectacular color and they happen to be on sale for 99 cents each ^^! I think i ended up purchasing about 12-14 of them...Im not sure if they are the same species as the more colorful ones since i know there are many of them, but the larger ones are starting to develop some blues and reds...im excited to see what they'll turn into


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

You should check out the sticky in the lighting forum on plantedtank but I suspect you have quite a lot of light there; perhaps too much.

Remember that light will drive the demand for all nutrients, especially carbon. In the high light aquarium, you must remain diligent to make sure that you provide enough carbon. In doing so, we have to keep a close eye on the critters to make sure that we are not distressing them. In this scenario (where we are trying to maximize the CO2) a bit of surface agitation is beneficial. I don't completely understand the theory behind this, so feel free to research it for yourself, but I believe that creating surface ripple will help with oxygen exchange... thus helping the fish. In your case, sure you might cause the offgassing of a bit of CO2, but you have the luxury of simply upping your bubble rate a bit to counteract the loss.

HTH. And I hope I didn't imply that you didn't know any or all of the above. 

Good luck! Keep posting pics.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

oh no like i mentioned in my first post, any suggestions is greatly appreciated ! i tend to try new things every week to see what works best and cause less algae  so there will be changes most def  thanks for the input


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

I really like the wood but having it centered is very distracting. I would place it to the left or right about a foot... Your focal point should never be centered, especially one that large. 

The golden rule (rule of thirds) doesn't have to be strictly followed but it should be kept in mind when scaping.

I'm not trying to be rude, just honest.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

interesting, i shall give that a try when i rescape the tank and makes sense

I guess teh reason why i stacked them all in the middle was because all of the equipment was originally in the middle. Ill make adjustments ^^


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

Kool looking setup you got there


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Heres an update...
Im getting some algae problems, use to get it everyday on the glass so i took out some micros that i use to dose (1/8 tsp cacl2, 1/8 tsp mgso4)


























































































Wattage turned down to 2.34 wpg. (234 watts, im considering cutting down 78 watts)

using the index method of fertilization method...currently set at:
1tsp KNO3
1/2 tsp K2so4
1/2 tsp Csm+B
1/2 tsp Kh2po4
Dosages done on M W F Sat(50%wc day)

All chemicals dosed on same day, seperating dosages of csm+b and kh2po4 by adding in different sides of the tank. (is seperating the days really that big of a difference? if so which should be dosed on which day?)

Nitrates reading is at 30-40ppm

Im working on the co2 indication but if im correct its in good condition via KH/PH reading. (about 4bps if not more) Just bought distilled water today so im gona try 4dkh water with the azoo indicator and see how that turns out.

I understand that the Index method is for high light tanks (3-4wpg)...should i increase the wattage? (i can get up to 4.68wpg)
I think im doing better with low wattage as algae isnt as crazy.

as seen in the pictures green micro hair algae is covering the driftwood (looks freaking cool imo)

Also the closest piece to the light is growing tiny black beard algae (which looks freaking cool as well but it also gets on plants  )

Some algae on my needle plant. older stems show deficiencies. but newer growth is strong! lets hope it stays this way.
Wisteria plants are growing well but the older leaves are showing algae
Dwarf sabs are doing great! took them awhile to grow but they seem to be shooting up new shoots like crazy and they are almost algae free.

Also added some new fish to the tank:
6 ottos, 5 cardinals (looking to get more if i can get my hands on them), 6 blood fins (total of 10)

In general plants are sustaining...im just annoyed with the algae because it shows that im doing something wrong...any suggestions would be great!

@ Jczz thanks


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

For the black beard algae, it is most likely low CO2, low Nutrients. If you supply both then it may be that the there are "dead" areas in your tank due to the wood disturbing flow. You may want to play around with the wave makers positioning to see if you can get good flow to all areas of the tank. I also have a large stump in my tank which causes flow issues in my tank and I have some black beard algae issue because of it. I just added another power head to combat it.

You could also add some moss or plants to the wood so that the light is getting utilized by plants not algae. When you do your water changes make a concentrated spray bottle of excel plus water. Spray on the BBA and let it sit for 5-10 minutes then fill the tank back up. The excel melts staghorn and hair algae and may help with the BBA.

Cheers! Good luck, look forward to the progress.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

i found one great method to get rid of the black beard algae is to take the end of my drain hose and scrape the wood with it...as the hose scrapes it also sucks up the released bba  no need to concentrate any excel (cause that stuff is expensive )

As for the wood i moved it about 2 foot to the left, and now my flows circulated from one end to the other via one power head only.

low co2 is whats bothering me...my indicator shows yellow (excess) and my nutrients are dosed in index method...should i increase the dosage? i also tested kh/ph and it reads good 

if i increase co2 it would prob take it to 5-6 bps :O


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

Hmm interesting that your drop checker is yellow. It is probably dead spots where there is little flow and thus the CO2 and nutrients in that area don't get replenished.

Hopefully the change to the hardscape and flow pattern address this issue. Keep at it.

Maybe I missed it but how long do you have your lights on for? Excessive lighting could also make algae control difficult.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Heres another update, shifted the centerpiece about two foot to the left and now theres a counterclockwise flow in the tank.

so i started pruning my old wisteria leaves...i found out that if i clip off the heads of the wisterias, the old leaves will algae up (or die off) but the original stem will still shoot out new growth. so until i get a good amount to cover up some empty spots im gona be doing some pruning every week 

I believe im getting about 35-45ppms of co2. Ph is showing 6.4 and indicator is showing yellow. Im going to lower the co2 injection just to keep the ph higher a bit.

The only algae that im getting is some growing on the glass but none on the plants or leaves anymore...the wood however cant be helped for now. I plan on covering it with javamoss when i get the chance.

changed up the Dosage amounts on fertilizers:
1 tsp KNO3 (instead of 1.5tsp) i found that my nitrates are above 40ppm each time i test so gona lower the dosage
1/2 kh2po4
1/2 K2so4
1/2 csm+b










































Getting more Blackbeard on this piece...looks freaking cool.


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

Looks much better with the stump moved.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

haha agreed. again it was only in the mid because all of my equipment was originally in the mid haha moving it required me to take apart a few filters and hoses  was worth the time.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

So does anyone know the reason why to this plant is melted?
Right now theres no frills left on it. Its just a long green stubbed plant...im assuming iron deficiency?









Also any idea how to stop black beard algae and algae growing on my glass? I mean if its growing then theres an imbalance.

The only theory i have is that the amount of wisteria in the tank is absorbing all of the micros...because nitrates is at constant 30-40 ppm. Potassium is always in the tank due 3 of the 4 salts being dosed. I have no idea how to measure Micros.

I heard that fish poop contains alot of Phosphates (which is black beard central if in excess?) due to the commercial fish food they are fed. I feed my guys alot!

again co2 levels are good (30-40ppm)
1 tsp kno3
1/2 csm+b
1/2 k2so4
1/2 kh2po4
wattage is at 3wpg

Im thinking of changing the dosages to
1 tsp kno3
1/2 csm+b
1/4 k2so4
1/4 kh2po4

let me know what you guys think.

*EDIT*
Ive been reading around and if co2 seems to be its main problem, im gona increase the co2 a bit and keep an eye on my fish. (co2 is shut off at night if that matters)
Also i did a major testing this morning and here is what im comming up with.

Nitrates: 30-40ppm
Phosphates: 10+ppm (off of the charts!!! is this due to dosing kh2po4? Seems like the plants arnt using it at all. 1/4 of teaspoon is recommended by the index method right?)
Ph: 6.4
GH: 50ppm (3 drops in test kit)
KH: 3 dkh

Im going to try the Degassing method to test my co2 but i dont think thats the problem after doing the major testing. I think my Phoshate levels way too high which is probably why the water looks a bit green in tint and why the algae is growing.

Is there a way to test the levels of traces? aka Csm+b? Im assuming i should get an (fe)Iron test kit and determine using that
What about Potassium? I notice that potassium levels should be about 20ppms but i have no idea how to measure that.
I think im gona skip on today's regular dosing schedule, today being Weds (M W F Sa), and just dose csm+b
I think im getting closer and closer to solving my problems.

Please comment


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

Increase your C02 and do weekly water changes of 50% of the water. How long do you have your lights on for?


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

i do weekly water changes of %50...sometimes even more but gona stick with 50 now that the landlord is complaining.

Lights are on for 10 hours (12pm-10pm)

going to increase co2 a bit.

I noticed since monday's dosage of KNO3 that the levels are barely changing (being eaten up and its now thursday). Maybe the API test kit isnt accurate? Tank is heavily planted.


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## NGermany (Jun 24, 2011)

in the last set of pictures you have something in the top right corner, could you tell me what it is?


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

not sure what happened to my post but what picture were u refering too?

The equipment that i is 2 fluvals, one as a regular fluval the 2nd has a surface skimmer attached to the intake and a co2 reactor (gravel suction tube) attached to the outtake tube.

the 2 black circle things are power heads...and a heater.


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## PlantNerd (Feb 8, 2010)

nice tank, its rare to see tiger barbs in a planted tank but they fit really nice. Makes me almost wish I'd do it lol


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

haha they're great really...the only exception like i mentioned earlier is that they kinda get big...right now mines are close to 1.5-2" and theyre very agressive swimmers...so u wont get the super awesome calming effect of say cardinal tetras but if u like a school of fish coming up to you each time u get near the tank they are the ones ^^ ill try to get more shots of them...wish my tank was more wider that way i can do a better job at landscaping to get the 3d effect. All i can do is shove plants in the back that way they're semi forced to swim up front 

I often see them scavenge in the forest of wisteria for food tho :O


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Thank you  tomorrow will be performing water change and updates on the tank


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

01-15-2012. Phosphate levels are about 5-8 after the 75% water change. Not dosing phosphates until its completely gone. Waters not yet crystal clear and getting some black beard algae. No more algae on glass. atleast not at high levels. Increased co2. I came to a conclusion that the ammount of fish i have in the tank throws off the recommended index method. So lesser on the ferts.

Changed dosages. 3 times a week.
1/2 tsp Kno3
1/4 csm+b

Overall view...wisterias are doing great! Im gona do a few more prunings to fill up the left side but right side is greatly covered.









Took out alot of the wood...nuked them in an oven...this one still has black beard on it except its kinda grey now since i nuked it. Gona cover it with javamoss once i get the chance









Added a bioball to the reactor.









Hygro. Growing very fast and well. showing some brownish/reds









Trying to grow some rotalas...they arnt growing super fast, but they're growing.









Myros (i think thats what they were)...prob had some difficiency that no one identified yet...but im assuming its iron or magnesium.









surface agitation...its not directed at the surface but u can see surface movement. Shouldnt effect co2 that much.









This guy suffered from the phosphate attack...it grew 1 leaf back and i think anothers comming...im thinking of just ripping all of the overly covered ones. the roots on it is nuked with black beared too. Bleach dip maybe? :O









Serpae showing white tips...he looks more red in real life.


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## scream-aim-fire (Oct 20, 2009)

i like how the wisteria is trimmed low kinda like a thick carpet


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

the thing is...it wont grow tall...the taller leaves tend to grow outwards then upwards...
but they're slowly getting taller  I plan on trimming them to keep them short for the carpet effect until i can get more plants that will grow well...so far only the hygro, wisteria, and some what of the dwarf sags are growing well. Rotala are growing very slowly :O


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## thefisherman (Nov 26, 2011)

i absolutely love the dimensions of your tank! 


Sent from my iPhone


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

AheartlessFish said:


> the thing is...it wont grow tall...the taller leaves tend to grow outwards then upwards...
> but they're slowly getting taller  I plan on trimming them to keep them short for the carpet effect until i can get more plants that will grow well...so far only the hygro, wisteria, and some what of the dwarf sags are growing well. Rotala are growing very slowly :O


I have the same issue. My wisteria wont grow higher than 5 inches tall, just grows outward. I'm guessing it is the 360 watts of T5 power!


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

thats what i thought too octavus, i read around with foreground/carpet plants saying that the higher the wattage the lower they grow (carpet effect). I also spoke with a friend who said this was true with his farm plants. Although i forgot what example he gave 

I also noticed that wisteria clippings that i gave to another friend grew tall...he dosed with Excel and flourish only. But he only ran about 2wpg. Must i say his plants are soo much healthier using just excel ! why cant excel be sold in salt form and cheap


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## thefisherman (Nov 26, 2011)

Octavusprime said:


> I have the same issue. My wisteria wont grow higher than 5 inches tall, just grows outward. I'm guessing it is the 360 watts of T5 power!


i think this is true for other plants not rotalas. ime rotalas love to get blasted with light (at least mine do) and grow long regardless. unfortunately yours seem stunted. pull them up and make sure whats in the ground isn't rotten. i they are hack away and replant, but 3-5 max stems, leave spacing in between so the whole stem gets lovin. i bet they'll appreciate the pruning/attention and stand straight up 

less than 10 days ago








yesterday








my light is 4"-5" from the top of my tank 2X T5HO, probbably 100+ par at center of tank. excel only.

Sent from my iPhone


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

in my experience...atleast from what i know...Excel makes plants explode and grow beautifully...its more tricky with dry ferts :/...im doing direct dosage of dry ferts, im not sure if thats the reason why...i usually put the ferts in a small container, add tank water, swish around, pour content into tank.

as for the rotting i dont think theyre rotting...i do realize that the older leaves are collecting a bit of green algae.


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## thefisherman (Nov 26, 2011)

maybe rotting is too strong a word lol. i just meant turning brown/losing leaves... my first rotalas were macrandra and wallichi. because i was new (still am lol) i just shoved the bunch i got straight from the LFS into the substrate... the stems didn't like it, and the base of the plants suffered, especially the wallichi.

it wasn't until i started literally hacking them in half, replanting the tops dividing them into small groups that i got them to wake up and stand attention.

this is what they looked like early on. they were growing allright but all over the place, horizontal much like urs. 
View attachment 16409


Sent from my iPhone


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## thefisherman (Nov 26, 2011)

oops pic didnt load :/


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

i can actually see them getting taller and taller each day. well i have a powerhead directly above them so as they get taller they're getting pushed further away...

Going to do a major re-planting/pruning of the tank tomorrow will post pictures


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Updates:

Spent a whole day on shutting down the tank and repainting the background...used oil based paint and a roller...it was a sloppy job (brush is better imo...dont ever use roller)










Tossed a huge amount of wisteria away because i didnt feel like pruning each and everyone of them...(older leaves looked gross)










This picture was taken right after replanting. I plan on getting more gravel soon to add to the tank...not really satisfied with the current slope but plan on making it more of an even slope.









Fish will be mainly ottos, serpeas, and my discus

*edit*

Some shots of him









went to my lfs today to look around and look at what i found...can someone confirm these to be Crossocheilus siamensis?
Hoping BBA will die to these babies


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Heres an update. 02-12-12

Got rid of every bit of wisteria...had like x2 5 gallon buckets worth...threw 1/2 of it away and gave other 1/2 away

Got my hands on some glosso...they're doing GREAT! probably doubled/trippled the amount i had when i first bought them in like 2 weeks.










now running 439 watts of 6500k bulbs.
started dosing Flourish Iron every day. (5 ml on dosage days 2.5 ml on off days)

Bought a co2 glass diffuser. It didnt work to well at high injection rates (gave out bigger bubbles than i thought) so i just added it to the old reactor i had.

Added 3 crosses (2 covered in javamoss)


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## pcgeek42 (Feb 22, 2012)

Love the tank! I'm jealous I have to stick with smaller tanks due to being cramped on space. I really like the contrast between the background and the plants.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

Actually, i wouldnt say that PC...

the only reason why i have this tank is because...

1, i purchased a 180 along with this light (red tail is making it his dominion)
2, my brother got this tank/stand for free and didnt use it, i refurbished it (sanding/painting). Equipment wise i had everything else and 800 dollar light? might as well put it into use ^^

major drawback on this tank is that its hard to get even co2 (im gona have to add another co2 line on the right side of tank) and water flow (i always liked the thought of water being pushed from one side into a surface skimmer on the other side)

Anyways, enough rambling, i rather have a tiny 30 gallon cube or nano tank to play with. Takes alot less time for maintenance and alot easier on the ferts


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

02-26-12. Hands went into water again. Moved all of the larger pebbles in the back and surrounded it with flourite gravel for the glosso to carpet...they're growing upwards instead of carpeting which is anoying. Blew away a few bucks at TFP and grabbed an impeller for my fluval which makes 4 fluval 404s on this tank right now...water flow is great, filtration is great. Added another co2 diffusor/reactor to the right side (long green tube thing). Fish doing great, plants doing great, Photo period now down to 7hrs. Controls glass algae better. Although seeing a tank lit for only 7 hours sucks! I wana add some white LEDS to the tank that way when the lights go out the tank visual still goes on...

Excuse the photo quality.


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## lilobee (Mar 28, 2012)

I wish I can keep a large aquascaping tank. I just cannot fight the wife for space. (o:


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

i didnt really aquascape with this tank...again i prefer smaller tanks now...big tanks take up alot of time!!


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## Josea (Feb 28, 2007)

Did you paint the back of the tank with the water still in it?? I so want to paint the back of my 72. It has fish in it though and was afraid this would hurt them.


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## AheartlessFish (Mar 18, 2008)

No i didnt, i did a complete shut down on the tank then moved the tank to be painted and then put back in its place. painting it with water in it would be impossible since there was only 2" of space from the wall ^^. I dont see anything wrong with painting your tank with fish/water in it if u had the room in the back. Just cover the edges with newspaper and make sure u dont get paint in the tank. If ur doing spray paint i wouldnt recommend doing it indoors at all. I tried it once with a fan blowing out...the end of that story is that i got blue paint all over my living room. O.O.

Also i dont recommend using OIL paints at all. I watched a youtube video that said use oil based paints...i used other paints before and oil is not the way to go...just my opinion. Latex ftw.

excuse the pictures, i think i deleted some on photobucket and replaced them hence why there are random pictures at times.

Tank was shut down and sold. I replaced it with a 40 gallon breeder setup.


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