# Jeffboyarrdee's ADA 60P



## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

hey everyone, i am planning out my next tank, and i am trying to gather the equipment over the next month, I want to get a 60P (20 gallon tank) and i want to use metal halides HQI, i want to invest in some aquamedics either the 70 watt or 150 watt...i was wondering if you guys have input on which one i should get...i dont know if 70 watts is enough, or if 150 watts is WAY too much, but i mean if i ever want to use the pendant for future tanks that may be larger i would want to consider that option, but yea what do you guys think, in terms of wattage?


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

If you wanted to go with the 150watt in case you get a larger tank, you could raise it higher from the top of the 60P to keep from overpowering the smaller tank.


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## roybot73 (Feb 5, 2008)

I use 70W Aqua Medic Ocean Light pendant on my 60P. Seems to be more than enough light for this size tank. I wouldn't want any more light on _my_ setup, but that's just me There are others who would want more -- this is perfectly managable. FWIW, 150W will give you whopping 8.3 WPG, while a 70W delivers 3.88 WPG!


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

I'm going to be setting up a 60p as well and was considering the AM 70W. I think that's plenty of light for any situation. For that size and depth tank you could really use anything from CF,T5 to MH and you would get alot of light. I think it really comes down to the look you want.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

thanks guys, yea i am trying to figure it out because i want to grow red plants, and definitely go for that deep red look in the background atleast. so i want to make sure i have ample light, the only reason im asking is because this is my first time iwth metal halides and it will be a fun learning experience to actually use a pendant for personal use.


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

I have the AquaMedic on my 60-P. I got it at DFS for less than 1/2 the price of the ADA pendant last spring. It came with a 10000k 150 watt bulb, so I swapped it out with a FW ADA bulb. I cannot seem to locate anyone who sells a 70 watt 6700K or 8000K MH bulb. If there was such a bulb, I think you could just substitute it in as the ballast is rated for 150 watts anyway. 

The look of the AM blends in quite nicely with the Solar I arm IMHO. I have it positioned 12" above the water surface. I just rescaped my tank last week and since the light is so intense, I am letting my photoperiod go 3 hrs a day while things get established. Then moving up to 4 hrs next week, with an eventual ceiling 5-6h max (ADA recommends 6-8 hrs photoperiod max).

One big advantage of this setup is the vertical clearance that allows you to work on the tank while the lights are on so you can really see what you are doing.


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## roybot73 (Feb 5, 2008)

Bunbuku said:


> I have the AquaMedic on my 60-P. I got it at DFS for less than 1/2 the price of the ADA pendant last spring. It came with a 10000k 150 watt bulb, so I swapped it out with a FW ADA bulb. *I cannot seem to locate anyone who sells a 70 watt 6700K or 8000K MH bulb. If there was such a bulb, I think you could just substitute it in as the ballast is rated for 150 watts anyway...*


Here are some links to 70W 8000K & 6500K bulbs...
http://www.watergrass.net/en/details.php?pid=381&cat=2
http://www.businesslights.com/70w-10000k-double-ended-metal-halide-lamp-p-707.html

IME, the stock 12000K bulb (closer to a 10000K) in the Aqua Medic fixture outperforms either of those bulbs by leaps and bounds, in terms of brightness, color rendition and plant growth.

Substituting a 70W bulb into a 150 W fixture might be a great way to burn down your house, if it would even fit into the 70W fixture. I can't really say it's a good idea


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

roybot73 said:


> Here are some links to 70W 8000K & 6500K bulbs...
> http://www.watergrass.net/en/details.php?pid=381&cat=2
> http://www.businesslights.com/70w-10000k-double-ended-metal-halide-lamp-p-707.html
> 
> ...


LOL! Over the years I have found many other ways to do it ainkille! I guess there is more to MH lights than simply changing to a lower power bulb (assuming it fits) even though its within spec of the ballast.

In case anyone's interested I have couple of 10000K 150 watt MH double ended bulbs (unused) to get rid of since I've gone ADA :crazy:. Now :focus:


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

woah cool....thanks guys, and thanks roybot73 for those links! i think that definitely pushed me towards getting the aquamedic for sure now, since i was iffy about using a 10K (out of preference) i really am more used to growing plants under 6500K and 8000K from the ada pc lamps. 

So i think im planning on getting a 60P for sure,
and an AM 70watt 
i plan to make my own stand, starting in a couple weeks, and probably use a round metal pipe and bend it to make a pendant arm.


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

jeffb 

FYI when you select the bulbs, I got the Coralife 6700K MH lamp as the initial replacement the 10000K AM OEM bulb. Mistake! To my eyes the 6700K made everything look too yellow and there was an uncomfortable glare. The ADA 800K was much easier on the eyes.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

i might try to 8000K 70 watt...non ADA im not sure if that will be a mistake, but i can always stick with the 10K if i have to but i dont want my plants to grow all weird


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

i ordered a 70 watt fixture online today, and i have my ada stand and tank sitting in my closet and i plan to assemble and put some of the equipment together. I bought some rock and substrate today as well and plan to atleast fill the tank with water and let the tank cycle, and let the new ADA substrate balance out. i find that this helps a bit in preventing plant melting. while the tank is cycling and while im waiting for the pendant, i will try and fashion my own "arm" out of piping to hang my fixture. Do any of you guys know what height i should hang my 70 watt fixture above my tank? Im still figuring out what height i want my arm to be at, without looking too awkwardly tall or too short.


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

Try this site http://www.adaeuro.com/allestimento_eng.asp?all=3. I hang my 150 watt Aquamedic about 12" from the water surface.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

jeffboyarrdee said:


> i ordered a 70 watt fixture online today, and i have my ada stand and tank sitting in my closet and i plan to assemble and put some of the equipment together. I bought some rock and substrate today as well and plan to atleast fill the tank with water and let the tank cycle, and let the new ADA substrate balance out. i find that this helps a bit in preventing plant melting. while the tank is cycling and while im waiting for the pendant, i will try and fashion my own "arm" out of piping to hang my fixture. Do any of you guys know what height i should hang my 70 watt fixture above my tank? Im still figuring out what height i want my arm to be at, without looking too awkwardly tall or too short.


Which light did you order?

Bunbuku you have the 150 over a 60p?


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

houseofcards said:


> Which light did you order?
> 
> Bunbuku you have the 150 over a 60p?


Yes indeed. My photoperiod is only 3 hrs since I set the current tank up in late Nov. The tank is along the east wall of the room. The rest of the time it gets natural lighting coming large windows that open south.

This maybe be why my HC is not growing as well as the old iwagumi which had a 6 hr photoperiod. But then I don't want the stems to get out of control.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

Bunbuku said:


> Yes indeed. My photoperiod is only 3 hrs since I set the current tank up in late Nov. The tank is along the east wall of the room. The rest of the time it gets natural lighting coming large windows that open south.
> 
> This maybe be why my HC is not growing as well as the old iwagumi which had a 6 hr photoperiod. But then I don't want the stems to get out of control.


That probably makes sense. I don't think a 3 hr photo period long-term will be the greatest conditions for plants. I'm actually setting up a 60p open-top tank and deciding on the lights. I like the look of the MH, but I also don't want any noise. If you had to do it again would you go with the same light.


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

houseofcards said:


> That probably makes sense. I don't think a 3 hr photo period long-term will be the greatest conditions for plants. I'm actually setting up a 60p open-top tank and deciding on the lights. I like the look of the MH, but I also don't want any noise. If you had to do it again would you go with the same light.


I am very gradually increasing the photoperiod will move to 4 hrs this weekend. The stems and Blyxa, roirama even the UG seem to be doing just fine though. In fact, I had to give the stems a big hack job after coming home from the holidays. Its just the HC that's a little wimpy.

Will I do MH again? Yes, the convenience of being able to work on the tank with the lights on and plenty of vertical clearance is really . Not having to drill holes in the ceiling to mount at T5 fixture . Noise is not an issue. There is a slight hum from the ballast that is just barely perceptible above background noise in the living room. I imagine that if you had the ballast inside your stand you would not hear anything at all.

Will I get same AquaMedic again? Yes if it was available and the price was good. At the time I bought it the Aquamedic was on sale and cost less than 1/2 the price of the ADA Solar I. I have not been able to find it listed on-line lately but is still see it on their website http://www.aqua-medic.com/oceanlight_pendant.shtml.

Here is another attractive candidate but the prices are approaching ADA territory http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~action~view~idProduct~GL1113~idCategory~FILTFIMHPDDE~category~Double_Ended_Halide-Pendants-Metal_Halide-Light_Fixtures-Lighting-Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies~vendor~.html

Cost to operate - here is an old thread of mine on power consumption for my rig. Not that bad really when you have power from the grid http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/equipment/55696-keeping-aquarium-running-w-o-power.html


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

hello everyone heres an update...things are coming along smoothly and quickly. I had just setup my stand and tank, and fashioned the arm for the light, and hung up my metal halide fixture. i went with the 70 watt because i want a longer photoperiod and i hardly get any direct sunlight in my apartment. i think that it was a good choice because yea there isnt any sound, and the light intensity looks like its well more than enough.

heres a link to the fixture i purchased
link

i used these pipe "U" clamps from home depot to attach the arm to the stand, and i also bought these small clamps to tie together the cables so that i can loop the fixture to the arm. i am going to be ordering my plants soon, and hopefully aquascaping right when i get the plants...

ill be using an eheim ecco filter and my ada CO2 advanced system until i get my hands on a 2 pounder CO2 tank, and my regulator from home in norcal.

enjoy some setup pics


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

Looking good Jeffboyarrdee! . I almost went with the ADA metal stand too but decided on a custom wood one in the end bec I wanted hide the hardware.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

i will post more pictures of my tank planted and filled. But as of now do you guys know any freshwater plant stores in the LA area?


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

So Jeff your happy with the light. About half the price of the AM one. Is it quiet as well.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

Hey!
thanks for all the comments!

I have planted:
utricularias grammafolia in the back left
HC in the front
tennelus (red) middle)
umbrosseum 
rotala singapore
rotala green
some type of polygnum? id please?
and i have some floating plants? id please?

the 6700K bulb is ok so far, i dont really know how it is compared to the 8000K because i havent switched them out yet. i am going to stick with it for now and see how my red plants grow. I have noticed growth in all the plants within 3-4 days which is amazing, maybe next week ill start with a little dose of step 1 and see how they grow with that. The rotala singapore isnt turning red at the tips, hopefully they will start to change. My photo period is about 6 hours right now, and i change 25% of the water once a week. hopefully my stems will thicken up with some trimming in no time!


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

hey yall
do you guys know what chemicals or filter media to use to take tanins and colorations out of the water? maybe an absorbant to put in my filter?
I was looking up a kent product and was wondering if you guys have any input?


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

Activated carbon is usually used in the first 3-4 weeks to reduce the organics. Especially so for Amazonia which is loaded with them. 

I have used on different occasions their ADA Bamboo charcoal and the Ehiem activated charcoal filter pads. Seachem also makes a charcoal preparation and another product called Purigen which is very effective at removing organics.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

Thanks, so the seachem purigen will not only take out impurities that make the water cloudy but it will also take the yellow tanins out? because my water is yellow colored, but the water is still clear


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## amphirion (Nov 13, 2008)

your floater is probably_ Salvinia minima_.


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## Bunbuku (Feb 10, 2008)

jeffboyarrdee said:


> Thanks, so the seachem purigen will not only take out impurities that make the water cloudy but it will also take the yellow tanins out? because my water is yellow colored, but the water is still clear


Yes both products will do the job for you.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

hey guys, im getting some green slime alage (i guess its blue green algae) i think it came with the utricularis, do you guys have any methods of killing it or preventing it from spreading. I only have a little, but i can tell its spreading each day.


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## hilikus16 (Nov 5, 2008)

i have the same thing in my tank. I've read that you need to increase nitrates to get rid of BGA. I've started doing so and i've noticed that it is spreading much slower already. I'm going to physically remove most if it soon and continue to dose more nitrates- that should get rid of it.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

what do you use as a nitrate doser?


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## arowanaman (Jun 14, 2006)

The tank is looking really good I especially like the rock layout. I think the Pollygonum is P. Sau palo.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

thanks arowanaman, was wondering what type it was. the bad thing is that the pollygonum actually died, but on its original stem it sprouted a new shoot that has roots trying to reach the floor, but its pretty high up on the old stem. It was odd, the stem started turning black, and the leaves are only half black and half red. 

My HC isnt melting, but it isnt turning bright green like how it started out, its actually turning more on the yellowside and looks like some of them are browning. I have never had this problem before, the HC grew excellent in my previous tanks. i am wondering if anyone knows what may be going on?

The blue green slime algae is getting worse, im keeping a close eye on it, since its embedded in the gravel, i have to constantly suck some of it out. Doesnt seem like my water changes are enough.


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## hilikus16 (Nov 5, 2008)

jeffboyarrdee said:


> what do you use as a nitrate doser?


i actually just made a mixture of 2 teaspoons of potassium nitrate from my PPS ingredients and i mixed it with a little bit of water. i'm dosing about .5mL of this everyday in addition to my PPS dosing. My nitrate test kit isn't very accurate so i don't want to add much more


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## hedson_25 (Sep 20, 2005)

interesting!!!
show us more pics


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## arowanaman (Jun 14, 2006)

jeffboyarrdee said:


> thanks arowanaman, was wondering what type it was. the bad thing is that the pollygonum actually died, but on its original stem it sprouted a new shoot that has roots trying to reach the floor, but its pretty high up on the old stem. It was odd, the stem started turning black, and the leaves are only half black and half red.
> 
> My HC isnt melting, but it isnt turning bright green like how it started out, its actually turning more on the yellowside and looks like some of them are browning. I have never had this problem before, the HC grew excellent in my previous tanks. i am wondering if anyone knows what may be going on?
> 
> The blue green slime algae is getting worse, im keeping a close eye on it, since its embedded in the gravel, i have to constantly suck some of it out. Doesnt seem like my water changes are enough.


As long as you have the algae under controle you should add phoshpurus, Nitrogen , and potassium back into the tank this will help green the plants up and boost new growth. If you pay me for the shipping I can send you more Pollygunum SP. I am considering getting rid of it all together in my tank because it is to big and is always trying to grow out of my tank and over take the tank.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

Well right now my tank has a bad case of brown algae. It's smothering my foreground plants and coating the rest of my stems making them dull colored. Do you gys think adding ottos will solve the problem? Are their any other methods to getting Rid of brown algae? I just added purigen to take out some organics and bring my nitrates to a minimum, and I was thinking of adding phosguard or something to get rid of the phosphates since la tap water is full of phosphates. Will that alone make my water changes mor effective in killing this algae?


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

Ok its march now!

the tank has been up for about 2 months now. I had a case of green water, flushed that out with a UV sterilizer, then i had a bad bad case of brown algae from the first month and got rid of that through DI water changes and a couple ottos chomped it up! and then things were going well, for about a week! and then i ran into more algae...hair and claddo EVERYWHERE! and so i tried to keep up with the DI water, but i realized after 2 weeks, maybe my plants arent doing so well because theres no phosphorous or nitrogen really getting into the tank, only potassium through brighty K. So i decided to do 25% water changes atleast twice a week with tap water, and almost all the clado is gone, and some hair algae still exists. I add about 2 capfuls of excel each water change which highly reduced some of the algae, and i started pumping step 1 which was a risk because i still had alot of algae. But after about 1 week this method has been cutting the algae back...

Here i have some pictures of what it looks like now, its due for a trim. I added this stem plant called nessessea? or something like that...it has a thick stalk and is starting to sprout out of the water. i also have a picture of this algae growing on my polygnum and its red!? maybe someone can help me ID it, maybe its gonna go away not sure.

waterchanges: 25%
20 drops ECA
20 drops phyton git
20 drops green bacter
10 mL excel
5mL brighty K
1mL step 1














































This is the nessesea? im not sure, but it grows fast!


















This is my UG with some algae still in it, as you can see...not as lush and clean as i want it yet.









This is an image of the red algae...it could be algae thats dying, but i doubt it, any ideas?


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## FishandTurtleJunkie (Apr 14, 2007)

I really like the layout with the plants flowing over the rocks, very nice look. I think with time the algae will subside once it matures a little more. Keep up the great work.


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## manifresh006 (Jul 20, 2007)

Looks like dead algae dead hair algae i think


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## UserJB007 (Sep 18, 2008)

Just my 2 cents, but my run ins with hair algae was dead=white. I feel like red is still alive.


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## jeffboyarrdee (Jun 9, 2007)

actually i think the black beard algae is whats turning red before it dies, and my hair algae actually just disintegrates. I think that is whats happening right now. so far, its been a few days, and my algae is being cut back.


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## 1aqumfish (Jul 28, 2008)

I had some algae look like that after a few days of excel went from dark green to red as it died.

Tony


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