# Help with DIY ADA stand!



## elaphe (Aug 24, 2006)

I've got my knock-off ADA stand almost completely built. It came out better than I thought it would (level and square). 

My question is:

What is on the bottom of the real ADA stands for "feet"? I can't tell from the pics in the catalog, and haven't seen anyone's pics that show the bottom of other DIY stands. In the ADA catalog, it looks like there is just some type of wood frame that it sits on?

On mine the top and bottom look exactly the same (both flat). Do I need "feet" of some kind on the bottom or will it be fine just like it is?

Here's a pic of it still in the build stages. There is no door, and it's upside down, I'm gluing the top front brace in place in the pic.


Thanks for the help,
Brian


----------



## shake (Feb 26, 2006)

Very well made there Brian.

I made one for myself, exactly the same way. No feet added. It doesn't need them. I did add though the felt protectors underneath to stop any scratching of my wooden floors if I ever decide to empty it and move it around.


----------



## kwc1974 (Jan 4, 2006)

I think that the bottom shelf is raised up a bit (1/2") so that the side and back wall act as the feet
I build mine like that but did add screw type feet for leveling purposes. You dont have the top trim to hide unlevel water.


----------



## Blacksunshine (Aug 11, 2006)

are you using only liquid nail to hold it all together? I don't know If I would trust the strength of LN to support the weight of a tank.


----------



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

It looks like it was glued with yellow carpenters glue. If so, that stuff is stronger than the wood when cured. I have glued two pieces of wood with it, and after 20 minutes the wood would break before the glue joint failed.

I have never tried leveling feet under an aquarium stand, but if the feet are at the corners where they are under the sides, that is a great idea. I wish I had made my last one that way.


----------



## elaphe (Aug 24, 2006)

It's yellow exterior wood glue. All the joints except for the front top brace are also screwed on too. Wood glue is very strong, I'm not worried about that part at all. I made sure that each piece was covered in glue, that is why you see so much at the seams.

I got the whole thing together last night, and currently have filler over all the screw holes and any other imperfections in the plywood. This way, after it's painted it will be nice and smooth. I'll sand tomorrow and probably paint next weekend. I wanted to do the gunmetal color, but the wife says it has to be black, it should still look OK! I'm going to paint the inside white and install a light so I can see the CO2 gauge and make filter maintenance easier.

BTW - It sits really level and it's really stable, so I'm not going to worry about any kind of feet for now. I can't find any heavy duty adjustable feet that are affordable enough.

Pic of it done with wood filler over any screw holes and other imperfections:




Thanks for all the help and advice,
Brian


----------



## Blacksunshine (Aug 11, 2006)

I'll have to grab a tube of that for the stand I'm making for my 100 gal. then. the Lid. Nail I used was worthless junk. Sorry for the derail. The stand does look great. Can't wait to see the fin product.


----------



## kwc1974 (Jan 4, 2006)

The leveling feet I used were from Home Depot, good for 500# and cost around $5
Simble foot attached to a bolt, and a receiving nut that attaches to the stand in a drilled hole.

I would still check it out. Although the stand might be level your floor may not be or it may settle unevenly (happened to me before with my 55g)

Any ways looks good so far, too bad about having to paint it black. I do perfer the gunmetal myself.


----------



## mrbman7 (Apr 16, 2007)

I build my knock off EXACTLY in the same manner. I didnt use feet but rather let it rest on the bottom panel. Working well so far.


----------



## thatguy (Oct 16, 2005)

The ADA stand's door overlaps the fame so you do not see it. In the cabinet you built, the bottom of the cabinet is flush with the door frame, thats why you do not need "feet".

Since the real ADA stand's door overlaps the frame, you do need to raise the cabinet so the door will clear the floor on outswing. This is done by using a base that is about 1/4 to 1/2 " smaller than the stands footprint, and the cabinet sits on that. It is about the same thickness as the material used to make the tank. The thicker it is, the easier it will be for the door to clear the floor material, ie thick carpet.


----------



## armedbiggiet (May 6, 2006)

Wow this look so nice... this is what I wanted on my 125g, just couldn't figure out how am I going to install 3 doors on it.


----------

