# Splitting 46g bf Center Brace - What would you do?



## BSS (May 2, 2006)

Hey all! Check out the photo and let me know how you'd proceed. Your rationale would be valued as well.

As to the bent paperclip, that helps hold my background in place.

All comments appreicated!
Brian.

P.S. Also posted to TPT.


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## Petfairy (Jul 17, 2006)

I dont know how to fix it, but i would at least drop the water level so there isnt so much pressure on the top. That would freak me out, I would look into ways to fix it, or possibly a new tank. but, thats just me, i dont know what the others would do.

Good luck.


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## diablocanine (Jul 25, 2004)

Somebody pick the tank up by the center brace? It needs to be fixed. I had to replace a top frame due to cracking, I tried to repair it with adhesive but it did not hold for long. The integrity of the frame has been compromised, for peace of mind, replace the top frame. Better than waking up to 40+ gallons of tank water on the floor and dead fish. Some will tell you to fix it and it will hold, save yourself some grief and ask the manufacturer what they think......DC


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

I to woudl replace the frame or the tank. You could look at it as a re-scape opportunity. Good luck!


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## Petfairy (Jul 17, 2006)

haha, what better excuse to re-scape. I had to ... it was broken.
lol.. that was a good one. 

But, seriously. what size tank was that? you would want to compare the cost to fix it, and if its more than just replacing the tank.. you might want to just get a new one, especially if its going to need to be replaced every few years.


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## BSS (May 2, 2006)

diablocanine said:


> ...It needs to be fixed. I had to replace a top frame due to cracking, I tried to repair it with adhesive but it did not hold for long. The integrity of the frame has been compromised, for peace of mind, replace the top frame. Better than waking up to 40+ gallons of tank water on the floor and dead fish. Some will tell you to fix it and it will hold, save yourself some grief and ask the manufacturer what they think......DC


DC - pretty much what I was thinking. Trying to cobble together something with the integrity of the top rim is easier said than done, IMO.

How big of a pain was it to replace your frame? Is it just pushed into place (wishful thinking) or did you have to battle with silicone/caulking.
[ To answer one of my questions...per All-Glass Aquarium - Quality Fish Tanks, Hoods, Lights, Stands and Accessories : "Sealed Top Frame: Every All-Glass aquarium frame is thoroughly silicone bonded to the glass, which eliminates any water seepage. The protected seal is durable and cannot be damaged by ordinary cleaning."]

Being a 46 gallon bow-front, I think that tank itself cost around $150, so I don't relish replacing it...but I might.

As to the rescape, I just resolved a CO2 issue and was just hoping to see the new scape round into shape  . But, it would give me the chance to move the C. balansae over to the side of the tank with all the plumbing to help cover that up.

Thanks for the inputs, folks!
Brian.


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## werner (Jul 6, 2006)

"Honey, I need a new tank! This one's going to break and all the people on APC tell me it can't be fixed! I was thinking I should get a [bigger size] gallon... I know it's expensive, but just think what it would cost to replace the [carpet, hardwood, subfloor] if it breaks. I'm actually saving us money! I could set this one up as a paludarium for [kid's name]- it would be so much more educational than [watching tv, playing video games]!"


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## bpimm (Jun 12, 2006)

The frame is probably siliconed on good, but it doesn't matter that much. it's already broke.... slide a razor knife up under the frame on the inside then break the plastic off then finish cutting it off. I've done it several times. Get one of the segmental razor knifes, the ones that you just break off the tip when it gets dull, they're capable of being extended far enough to cut all the way up to the top of the plastic. 

Replace the frame with a new one and just add a silicone fillet to the inside lip that will seal it and make it easer next time. if there is a next time.

Your only option for fixing it without the new frame IMHO, is to add a glass brace in place of the plastic one, you would cut out the plastic brace and notch the frame on the inside to accommodate the glass brace, clean the glass good and silicone in place and lightly clamp for 24 Hours. A glass shop can cut the brace for you if you make a template. I would think a 2.5" peise of 1/4" glass should be plenty if you decide to go this route.

Now food for thought. Honey we need to replace this tank.... all the reasons listed above... after you are done with that you could learn how to fix the old tank and hey you have this perfectly good tank just sitting there, you might as well fill it up...


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## BSS (May 2, 2006)

Good suggestions, folks....though I'm guessing the ex won't take kindly to a reduced alimony check...even if *I* think it is justified  .

Actually sent an e-mail to [email protected] last night and got a nice response already. They said I could order a replacement rim from them. So, we'll see how much it runs. From what I've heard here and at TPT, I'm guessing it should be around $20 bucks.

Thanks, all!
Brian.


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## AndyT. (Jun 28, 2006)

another alternative (somewhat more difficult because it is a bowfront) is to do the following (Note: YMMV, do this at your own risk, I make no garantee or warantee of this method and am not liable if you decide to do it):

Lower the tank water by 50%
Use two clamps (a variety of different clamps will do the job) to clamp the aquarium so that the cracks come together. Remember to use some kind of rubber/plastic to keep the metal parts of the clamps from touching the aquarium glass.
Cut a piece of wood to fit exactly across the center interior of the aquarium. Make sure to very carefully mirror the curve of the bowfront.
Bring that piece of wood to a local glass store, they can use it as a template. Have the new center brace made of tempered glass at least 1/4" thick and make them bevel the edges of the sides.
Put new center brace in aquarium and clamp it to the existing center brace.
Silicone the heck out of it and let it dry a full twenty four hours.
Unclamp from current center brace.
Release clamps from front to back. Watch carefully to see that the silicone is holding.
Slowly refill tank. 
Once aquarium is full watch silicone suspiciously for several minutes. If silicone shows no sign of giving, let out a deep sigh.
If silicone starts to give, replace clamps from front to back.

Yeah, I've done this a couple of times before... Oceanic 150's where the glass center brace gave on the front end and fell against the back wall of the aquarium. Glass can bow impressively before it breaks. Last time this happened I noticed we were all speaking in whispers as we applied the front to back clamps - scared it would give way.

Personally, I recommend getting a new aquarium.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I've been studying that photo some more, and I like Diablocanine's first comment - someone tried to use the brace as a handle. If the water pressure had been the cause of the breakage I don't think it would have caused the cracks next to the cross piece of the brace. It would have just pulled loose from the outer frame, cracking there only. How did you discover the breakage? Is the cross brace bowed up in the middle? Did the cracking gradually get bigger over time?

Another fact that argues that the crack is not a result of water pressure: the brace would be resisting the water from bulging out the glass by about 1/8 of an inch (eyeballing it). If it were stressed that much, and cracked, it would give away rapidly, causing the glass to pop out the full 1/8 inch, not just ease out. I suspect that would have busted the glass, and it didn't. In any case, if you were in the room when it let go you would have heard it.


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## BSS (May 2, 2006)

Just examining the brace, it isn't bowed at all. I do believe the crack has increased over time. I checked my notebook, but didn't record when I first saw it. I'd guess it's been expanding for 4-6 months, though that's purely a guess.

I've got a DIY AHS-fashioned light "holder". It's about 50% of the width of the tank. When I do tank maint, I push the fixture almost all the way to the wall, and frequently the 55w CF in the back is likely over that portion of the brace. It is quite a stretch for me to scrape GSA off the bottom front of the glass, and at times it takes quite a bit of pressure. I keep wondering if between the heat and me 'leaning' into the front glass at one time or another if that might have started the fissure. I guess if the problem recurs after I replace the current rim, then I'll have to reconsider my ways  !?!

By the way, the new rim with $5 for shipping is running a bit over $22, and they state it'll be here in 2-4 days. If they actually make good on that delivery, I'll be a pretty happy customer! Though I should wait until I've actually pulled off the rim replacement before I decide for sure 8-[ .

Thanks for the thoughts, Hoppy,
Brian.

Oh, and AndyT...you're not going to give me a guarantee on that recommendation ! hehehe


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## laelw2000 (Sep 4, 2006)

*In my humble opinion*

I would get a new tank. OK not really I would try to fix it. How bad would it look with a big clamp sticking up from the top of the tank. Just Kidding! The tank is about the least expensive thing in the whole setup. Substrate, filter, plants, fish, testing supplies, chemicals, hood, lighting etc. They run a pretty penny.


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