# brown algae?



## tahdpohl (Jun 18, 2012)

I set up my first planted tank at the beginning of September. I've got brown algae(?) growing on the leaves of my plants-especially my crypts. I'm not sure how to get rid of it, since I can't scrub it down like the rest of the tank. I tried cutting off the effected leaves, but eventually I'll end up with no leaves. 

I saw the thread about using Excel to get rid of algae- would this work in my case? I have shrimp so maybe I shouldn't?

29 gal, has laterite & eco-complete like substrate, 2- 10W compact fluorescent clamp lamps which I probably leave on far too long (over 12 hours), I added some API leaf zone over 2 weeks ago, but I think that it probably made things worse and I haven't put any in since.

I just added some gold inca snails hoping they would help, but they haven't been in there too long. 

Anyway, any advice would be welcome- sorry to be such a noob about this.


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## BruceF (Aug 5, 2011)

If it is a diatom you should be able to clean it off the leaves with a soft rag. Since it is a fairly new tank keeping after it might be the best thing right now.


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## totziens (Jun 28, 2008)

Brown algae/diatom - usually they will be found in a new tank - new tank syndrome. Sometimes they will go away by themselves when the tank is established. Regular maintenance and adding otos may help to minimise them. If your shrimps are not too small, sometimes livebearers will help too. Insufficient light can also lead to this issue. 

2- 10W is definitely insufficient even though watt per gallon is not an accurate measurement.You should be having at least 1-2 watt per gallon if you utilise watt per gallon measurement, so you'll need between 29-58 watt. The more accurate measurement is based on Kelvin of the light but the information is not always available - you need 5000-10,000 Kelvin for planted tank. The duration of the light should be between 6-8 hours. During initial setup, sometimes you'll need less than 6 hours if you notice algae bloom. The only fertiliser needed during initial setup is potassium. Adding other fertilisers too early are likely to attract algae. I know of some people who keep their light on for 10-12 hours but I personally think it's overkill as I often notice lots of algea in those tanks. Some people introduce siesta period in between the 6-8 hours to reduce algae but some people consider siesta period as rubbish. It's up to you to try out what works for you because a lot of stuff in this hobby is debatable.


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## tahdpohl (Jun 18, 2012)

I was able to wipe off the brown algae off of the leaves, but it is hard on the H. difformis due to the shape of the leaves. I've noticed my shrimp on the leaves eating, the snails are working hard on the algae too. But I will keep cleaning leaves and maintenance stuff in the hopes that it will go away or at least in balance with the rest of the tank.

The bulbs are both rated 6500K. My plants are making new leaves and growing, so maybe it's okay? I will need to get a timer, since I'm not home soon enough to keep the time under 12 hours.


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## totziens (Jun 28, 2008)

Yup, timer will definitely help. It's very useful in this hobby. Without any timer, I think I would not have any planted tank...they would be called algae tanks


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## tahdpohl (Jun 18, 2012)

thanks for the advice, will definitely be getting a timer. =)


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Otos will eat it, are small enough to perch on the leaves, and do not harass shrimp or snails.


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## tahdpohl (Jun 18, 2012)

I am trying to keep with Asian species, would a Siamese Algae Eater take care of this kind of algae? or is there a better species?


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## sharkl11 (Jun 3, 2012)

Otos do the trick, they are very cheap.


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## totziens (Jun 28, 2008)

SAE(Siamese Algae Eater) is good for removing hair algae & BBA when they're juveniles. They will grow very huge and love to jump out of the tank. Any tank without a hood often end up with dead SAEs on the floor in a matter of time. As they've reach adulthood, they tend to prefer fish food than algae. I am not aware of them eating diatom.

Otos is still the number one choice for fighting diatom. They cleared my newly setup tank full of diatom growing on the hydrocotyle recently. Unfortunately, their fatality is almost 50% at initial stage as they're often starve during transportation. Some LFS still do not know what to feed them - so they starve again. The moment they reach your tank, some may die. If they survive the first month, the chance for them to survive for a long time is very high. I bought 6 last week, today I only have 4 remains (I was desparate to buy them even though I found dead bodies in the tank at LFS)  I had 100% survival in the past before but not this batch.


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## tahdpohl (Jun 18, 2012)

the LFS near me usually has otos, how many do you think would take care of a 29 gal?


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## totziens (Jun 28, 2008)

I usually keep 6 otos in a 15 gallon tank. Maybe you can double that amount.


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