# [Wet Thumb Forum]-DIY-CO2 Reactor



## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Components








01-CLEAR PVC CEMENT
02-CELAR PVC CLEANER/PRIMER
03-TEFLON TAPE

03-1/4"BARBx1/2"NPT
04-5/8"BARBX3/4"NPT

05-2"x(6-12") CLEAR PVC
06-3/4"NPTx1" PVC
07-1"x1"x1/2"NPT REDUCER TEE
08-1"x2" PVC
09-1"X2" REDUCER BUSHING
10-2"X2" COUPLER
11-2"x2"x2"NPT TEST TEE
12-2"NPT PLUG

Loosely assembled









Other than cutting twp pieces of PVC this reactor requires no tools and no custom modification. It is just assembled from off the shelf pieces.

The clear PVC can be replaced with regular white PVC, but you will not be able to see what might be going on inside.

The test tee allows you to open up the rector for cleaning, etc. without disassembly.

THe length of (05-2"PVC) can be debated with some people requiring 24". I have been able to run a 100g with 275gph with this part being only 6" long.
NOTE: I forgot the bioballs in the picture. Jut put 3-6 bioballs int he tube before final assembly.

NOTE: When hanging the reactor it will work best if oriented -20deg from vertical.

*James Hoftiezer

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## Roger Miller (Jun 19, 2004)

James,

I know this must have been asked and answered before, but where do you get clear PVC pipe?


Roger Miller


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Here ya go:
US Plastics Corp
One source anyways.



> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Roger Miller:
> James,
> ...


------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

"NOTE: When hanging the reactor it will work best if oriented -20deg from vertical."

Still a newbie when it comes to reactors/CO2, so I was just wondering what the reason for the 20deg angle is.

How come you went with 2" PVC? Is that sufficient for a 100 gallon tank? I've seen others use 3"

Before I forget, thanks for posting this. The before and after photos are very good in showing how things go together.

Thanks,
Karl

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I ordered two ft at $8ft from an www.aquatic-eco.com.
Clear PVC pipe, 2 in.

Like anything add shipping and its not really worth it so I got a few feet to share and bought some other things I needed. It is the only place I know that sells it by the foot. We've already made 2-3 reactors and I have enough for two more.

It is my opinion that a reactor should react. You need to really churn things up.

In this reactor stage one is the elbow. By using the 90 degree at the top it forces the water to be turbulent. By tilting the reactor at an angle you guarantee that the CO2 is getting trapped just where the turbulence will be greatest. It also keeps the CO2 from trying to run back up the hose as an air bubble.

Stage two is the typical jet of water hitting the bioballs that you see in most reactors.

This set up may explain why I've been able to get by with such a short reactor(14.5" over all (I think)). I am being honest when I say that I never see any bubbles getting past the bioballs or hear the formation of air pockets.

*James Hoftiezer

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## Ptahkeem (Feb 16, 2004)

hi james
thats a great looking reactor and i have a couple questions for your. first do you have your reactor hooked up to the intake or outtake of your canister filter? second for a 40 gallon how long do you think a diy reactor like this should be? ive been really wanting to make myself one of these babies but want to clarify some stuff before i even attempt it. thanks again


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

I have mone on the outflow from the filter to the tank.

For a 40g you could try using 1.5" PVC. I good experiment might be with 1". In either case experimentation would be needed.

As for the length all of the CO2 stays in the top 6" of mine. If I just crank the valve and create an air pocket, the bubbles still do not go down more than 2" into the clear PVC.

On a smaller line, you could use 1/2" hose and barbs which should increase the velocity of the water. Smaller PVC would also do that, but keep in mind you do need bioballs (1.25") or a scrubber pad inside the reactor.

*James Hoftiezer

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## Ptahkeem (Feb 16, 2004)

cool thanks for the info james.
oh one last question since youre using pressurized i assume does the water flow pull co2 out of the co2 line? meaning this is pretty much the venturi effect no? since there is water flow and a co2 line there the water must try to pull co2 out. is there any danger in this? probably not im assuming but its always good to ask. also whered you get the clear pvc cement and the clear pvc cleaner/primer?


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## ranchwest (Jul 17, 2005)

Please pardon my complete ignorance, but the last time I had plants I just put the aquarium by the window and kept the ones that lived. Now, I'm setting up a 100 gal and am trying to do it right. I once had a fish store, but that was 20 years ago.

Did you cement all of the connections except the plug and tape it?

What do each of the 3 barbs connect with? 

And, ta dah. The most basic question of all. Where does the C02 come from?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

It will but I count on that to keep my bubble counter full of water. What you'll find is the effect is negligable but you also need to keep a check valve inthe co2 line and look your CO2 line to prevent a backflush into the regulator.

Clear PVC cement can be gotten at any home depot/lowes/etc., but it is harder to find onthe shelf.

*James Hoftiezer

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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Sorry, I felt it was accoomplishment to get that much posted this morning. I figured I had some time to clean it up









Thre threaded connections get 2-4 loops of teflon tape. All other PVC connections get primerd and cemented in both the male and femail pieces. Assemble the cemented pieces with a twisting motion to ensure that the cement is spread evenly and completely.

When hooking it up;
The outflow from the filter goes into the top left barb(1/2, 5/8 or 3/4"). The CO2 goes into the top center barb (1/8, 1/4").
The bottom barb goes to the tank.

Depending on your situation it either comes from a DIY CO2 generator using a yeast mixture or from a pressurized CO2 tank. If you are setting up a 100g planted you'll wnat to go pressurized.

BTW: I still need to add stuff to the parts list and instructions above!!

*James Hoftiezer

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## ranchwest (Jul 17, 2005)

James, I look forward to the continuation of your instructions.

What type of business sells C02 tanks? Is it easy to set the valve for a reasonable flow rate or is a control mechanism required?

Things sure have changed in the past 20 years. I'm certainly glad this information is available on the internet!


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Go to the CO2 Systems and Equipment at the aquabatonic store and look around.

From there:


> quote:
> 
> Build your own C02 system using only the very best and most innovative products.
> 
> Requirements are a regulator, bubble counter, and a reactor which mixes the gas with water.


You also need the tank.

------------------
THe rest of this post is based on what I have read. I have yet to get a CO2 system of my on.
------------------

Essentially, the regulator will reduce the pressure of the tank from say 100 to 10 psi. This is neeeded because needle valves require lower pressures to operate correctly. 10 psi is a guess. Then the needle valve can control the supply of CO2 in very fine increments.

The needle valve is the "control mechanism" that will give you 2 bubbles per second.

So from the needles valve, you go to the bubble counter. This is how you measure the output of the needle valve so you can adjust it as needed.

From the bubble counter, you run a line to the reactor, which mixes the CO2 with the water.

Aquabatonic sells a regulator/needle valve combo, so try not to get confused when you see it.

I think you can get CO2 tanks from a welding supply place. Someone else has to verify this though and be more specific about this. Usually, you have to swap empty bottles for full ones as on site filling is not common. One 5 pound bottle usually lasts up to 6 months from what I've read.

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Ditto except;
The regulator drops the COS from 900psi to 15-30psi. CO2 hits a liquid state at that pressure. It will maintain that pressure until all of the liquid is gone.

My personal/best/favorite place to get CO2 is Fire Extinguisher supply stores. They have a multitude of different tanks shapes and sizes, can do all your testing and maintenenace and fill the tanks onsite. Better yet every town has one. I've even seen one person whose CO2 tank literally is a red fire extinguisher with a valve on top.

The components are in this order;
Tank
Regulator
Solenoid (optional)
Needle Valve (NOT Optional)
Bubble Counter
Reactor/Diffuser

*James Hoftiezer

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Does one look up 'Fire Extinguisher Supply' i nbthe yellow pages or is there something else to look under?

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

OK, Gales Ferry, CT doesn't have a fire supply. Ya'll aer gonna burn down some day








The closest I could find for you is an hour away in Hartford;
SMITHS FIRE EXTINGUISHER SUPPLY
287 HOMESTEAD AVE, HARTFORD, CT 06112 
(860) 247-8773

It boggles my mind because I have three here in little ole Spartanburg SC

*James Hoftiezer

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## imported_Xema (Apr 1, 2003)

I don´t understand the operation of this gadjet.

How bioball dissolve the CO2?

Grettings from Spain


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

The passing of the bubbles through the water is what disolves it. The bioballs are just there to help create turbulence. There's more to it, but turbulence is the main reason for the bioballs.

BTW: The part you are confused about is hwo the reactor works.

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

The Bioballs are also needed for the following reasons;
-They break up the CO2 bubbles into smaller bubbles increasing the surface area of CO2 in contact with the water
-They prevent CO2 bubbles from being accelerated out the bottom of the reactor before they have had enough time to dissolve.

*James Hoftiezer

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Do you know if there are check valves available that could be plumbed at _03-1/4" BARBx1/2" NPT_? Possibly in series with item _03_. I suppose the standard inline checkvalve would be fine inches away from the barb(plummed into the flexable tubing), but a checkvalve built into a reactor would be nice.

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Depends on hwere you have your connections but;

Just found these;
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Check+Valves&product%5Fid=Series+426+PVC+Check+Valves+For+Air+or+Liquid

I have a 3/4" version in my bubble counter, but be aware it requires a higher regulator pressure (30psi) thatn others;
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Check+Valves&product%5Fid=Polypropylene+Check+Valve+Series+694

*James Hoftiezer

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## Justin Fournier (Jan 27, 2004)

Good stuff James!

In this design your running water through the double barb end, which will be up and the water outlet through the bottom which will be down, correct?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Correct.
Water and CO2 entering the top.
CO2 gets caught in the knuckle and dissolved
then exits through the bottom.

*James Hoftiezer

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## jpmtotoro (Feb 13, 2003)

james would also like to add that before you set the entire thing up, you should run water through it to make sure there are no leaks! if there are small ones, some silicone should fill it up well. don't be like me! test before you use







i think that's the number 1 rule for all DIY problems though... anyway, james' design is pretty solid and i like it. no real issues yet

JP


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> anyway, james' design is pretty solid and i like it.


DITTO!

I'll be using the same design, just a little longer and with a built in check valve. The I/O will also be a much larger diameter (3/4" or 1")

Karl

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## Jack11 (Mar 30, 2004)

kherman,
I am a little confused by the built in check valve. I went to the US Plastics link above but had a hard time picturing how this would be incorporated into the design. Is this what you plan to use? How would you build it into the design?

Ah Hah! You're supposed to put the plants IN the water...


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Jack11:
> kherman,
> ...











Items of note:
03-1/4"BARBx1/2"NPT
07-1"x1"x1/2"NPT REDUCER TEE

In concept, I would like to put a check valve between 03 and 07.
ideally, I'd use one of the threaded versions of one of these.:
















Then again, I could get one that is threaded on one end and a barb on the other, thus eliminating the need for item 03. This would probably be preferable.

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.


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## Jack11 (Mar 30, 2004)

kherman,
Great explanation. Makes sense to me.

Ah Hah! You're supposed to put the plants IN the water...


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## Jack11 (Mar 30, 2004)

James,
If part 11 above (the 2" x 2" x 2" NPT Tee) is threaded, how do you connect your clear pvc, part 05 to it? Also, when do we get to see a diagram of your diy bubble counter? Keep up the great work!
Jack

Ah Hah! You're supposed to put the plants IN the water...


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Only the port facing the cap (Item #12) is threaded. The other two joints are slip fittings. Clear PVC in one side adapter out the other.

I'm behind on my DIY pages. I might get something done on the bubble counter, but it really isn't the best design. The check valve works but I have to keep the co2 at 30psi for it to work.

*James Hoftiezer
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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

I got a little problem with my DIY reactor. when I hook it to a powerhead 802 and turn it on. I can hear a waterfall effect in the pipe.

The stuff I used to build the reactor are

5/8" hose to a 1/2 inch barb (tighten with hose clamp) the barb is threaded to a reducer from 1 1/2" pipe to 1/2". A coupling holds the 12" long 1 1/2" pipe to the reducer. The other end of the 1 1/2" pipe connect to a T for easy cleaning. The T is connected to another reducer.

If I put pressure on the outflow, the waterfall sound is gone.

HELP!!!

72 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Do you have an elbow on the top or is it running straight?

You have an air bubble forming which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but the sound could be annoying. When you put the pressure on it may be backing the bubble into the line or compressing the bubble. Bioballs that will float on the top may reduce the noise. A clamp on the outlet line may also give you enough back pressure to solve the noise permanently.

*James Hoftiezer
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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

Or you don't have enough water moving though the system to fill the reactor.

Moderator










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

See my Profile for tank details.


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

It is a straight build. I am having a hard time finding a store that carry lots of pvc parts here.

I got it figure out. I have to run an airline tube from the hole I drill for co2 intake to the main tank. Then let it run for 30 min to get most of the bubble out first. After that, I can add the rest of the equip to the existing airline hose.

72 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## EDGE (Feb 28, 2004)

I have the reactor setup. I notice that it takes more pressure to push the co2 into the reactor. Theres a lot of back pressure from the reactor pushing the water back up the co2line.

Is this a common situation?

72 Gal, 3 WPG PC 10 hour, pressurize co2 /w controller 1 bps, Fluval 404, ph 6.8
A Canadian's Plant Traders website


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

There will always be some back pressure. I run mine higher because of a checkvalve, but most people run 15-20psi.

*James Hoftiezer
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

James,

I just went to the site and they say it's sold in 10 foot sections only, granted they will cut it for you. I will try and get a 2' piece anywayss. If they call me, I'll just cancel the order.

Anyone else notice this?



> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by JamesHoftiezer:
> I ordered two ft at $8ft from an http://www.aquatic-eco.com.
> ...


------------------------------
Karl's Parts And Construction Journal


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Clear PVC pipe, 2 in.



> quote:
> 
> *Sold by the foot, 10 ft. length maximum.* Lengths over 6 ft. ship via motor freight. No charge for cutting. 10 ft. pieces can be cut to 5 ft. for UPS shipment. Made in USA. Nominal Pipe Size - 2 in., Max PSI - 140.


*James Hoftiezer
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

*smacks head*

I went to the wrong site









I did buy a bunch of goodies from USPlastics.com though. They have online technical/customer support. It's pretty cool. They recomended a check valve for CO2 and everything. Their support is essentially an online chat room.

Anyways, add another person to the list of people you have inspired. Most of the stuff I need to do a DIY reactor is now ordered.

------------------------------
Karl's Parts And Construction Journal


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## jzkmom (Jul 5, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by JamesHoftiezer:
> My personal/best/favorite place to get CO2 is Fire Extinguisher supply stores. They have a multitude of different tanks shapes and sizes, can do all your testing and maintenenace and fill the tanks onsite. Better yet every town has one.


Unfortunately, not all fire extinguisher shops deal with CO2 though. I checked the local fire extinguisher shop here, and they do not sell CO2 tanks or fill CO2. I called a large fire extinguisher shop about an hour away in a larger city - they do sell them but gave me a price of $80 for a used 5 lb tank. I thought the fire extinguisher places were supposed to be cheaper, but they aren't here.

I can get a 5 lb. tank from the welding supply place for $62. I've called all around and this is the cheapest price I've found.


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## EeJaL (Feb 25, 2003)

James...my man~
I know this gonna be a dumb question but how am I suppose to place it, vertically or horizontally? Which way is up?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Place it vertically like an upside down L with the inlet to the left (if you made it like the diagram). Do not put it perfectly vertical. Tilt it 20 degrees to the left. This will help trap the CO2 bubble in the tip of the elbow.

*James Hoftiezer
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

*James Hoftiezer
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Well all shops are independent. Sounds like your welding shop is way below average. I am happy for you as long as you can get a reasonable price somewhere. If you need any help, just let us know.

*James Hoftiezer
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

BTW ...
I have most of the construction pages complete for CO2;
http://www.hoftiezer.net/personal/aquaria/index.htm

Let me know what else I should add.

*James Hoftiezer
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Where did you get the clamps that are in this picture?










The black ones on the top and bottom that hold thereactor in place that is. I can't recall seeing them before.

------------------------------
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Take a guess.......

www.usplastics.com
I'll try to look up the item numbers later.

*James Hoftiezer
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

I think I found it.

Proiduct number 44287

I wish I noticed that when I ordered stuff last week. Oh well....

------------------------------
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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

That's it.
There's a thread somewhere that contains a list of all the fun stuff that you can get from usplastics, but not sure where it is now. Squeeze measurment bottles for DIY ferts is another great item.

*James Hoftiezer
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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

question for james:

i was looking at a lee valley catalog today and came across a page devoted to dust collection systems. hopefully the link i'm posting will work.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=30042&category=1,42401&ccurrency=1&SID=

they sell pieces of clear polypropylene pipe (2 inch in diameter). of course the saleperson had no idea on whether it is drinking water safe; i'll fire off an email to the company.

in the meantime, do you (or anyone else) have any input as to the suitability of polypropylene in an aquarium?

by the way, i, in bringing this website to your attention, am assuming no responsibility for any buying binges you may incur. man, i'll tell you, they have some neat tools and jigs. and since you're the diy king, no doubt you'll be able to pick out some hardware. gotta have that folding japanese dozuki saw!

stuff like that.









regards


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Problem is the actual dimensions of the pipe(2" O.D., 1-7/8" I.D). It cannot be used with regular 2" PVC (maybe it will work with a different size). I tried the same thing with acrylic tubing but he dimensions are all off. Worth a look though.

I pulled out my pipe and the 2" PVC has an ID of 2" and an OD of 2 3/8".

*James Hoftiezer
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## Jim Miller (Feb 3, 2003)

James

How did the "baby" reactor work out?

jtm

Tank specs in profile


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

thanks james for replying so promptly. i'll probably fashion my reactor out of opaque material instead.

regards.

[This message was edited by jart on Sun September 07 2003 at 10:06 AM.]


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## drewz (May 4, 2004)

James, Thanks for all this great info. 
I recently built a 1" pvc reactor following your plans(roughly). I am also running a DIY yeast setup. I was wondering if there will be enough pressure from the DIY yeast to pump the CO2 into the reactor? I was getting a good bubble rate (in the bubble counter) before i hooked the reactor up but the rate has slowed to almost a halt. What can I do?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Unfortunately not much. There is an ambient pressure inside a reactor that you will have to overcome. A new yeast mix may do it but long term you'll want to go pressurized.

*James Hoftiezer
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## Bremer (Feb 3, 2003)

I always used a lot more water in my DIY set-up than is shown in that picture. I recall reading somewhere that the alcohol level in the bottle would increase with time and reduce the yeast's effectiveness. So I figured the more water, the longer that process would take. I filled 2-liter soda bottles until they were 75% full.

But eventually, I just went pressurized and have not regretted it.


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Bremer:
> I always used a lot more water in my DIY set-up than is shown in that picture. I recall reading somewhere that the alcohol level in the bottle would increase with time and reduce the yeast's effectiveness. So I figured the more water, the longer that process would take. I filled 2-liter soda bottles until they were 75% full.
> ...


I noticed the same thing. The more air in the DIY bottle there is, the slower pressure will build up and force the CO2 into the reactor.

To improve the situation, reduce the amount of air as much as possible. Use smaller diameter tubing if possible. Also, greatly reduce the size of the DIY Yeast set up or put more water in the setup. From the pic, leave the bubble counter alone. That has plenty of water.

Or just take the dive to a CO2 tank unless money is an issue. About $60 for one filled. Refills are about $12 on a swap. This is for a 5 pound tank.

------------------------------
Karl's Parts And Construction Journal


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## drewz (May 4, 2004)

Thanks for the recommendations. I 'll try and fill the 2L bottles to increase the pressure. But the pressurized CO2 setup might have to wait due to low funds at the moment. What is a good indicator that the CO2 is getting into my system? Should I see some immediate effects on my plants?

36gal planted, 110w, DIY CO2, Eheim 2213, Eco-complete mix


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

They depends on everything else being in balance. The beter the balance of light and nutrients the more pronounced the CO2 effect will be.

*James Hoftiezer
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## Bremer (Feb 3, 2003)

Best way is to monitor your PH and KH levels.


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## Barfly (Nov 2, 2003)

James,

when installing, do you have to hold it upside down first so that the water comes in the bottom and pushes all the air out first?

May the pearls be with your Riccias'.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

In my case I install the hoses then turn it upside down before mounting. 
Sometimes when I clean my filters it can also get an air bubble and I'll do the same thing.

Given a little time the reactor will take care of it by itself, but I know the gurgling noise gets to me after a few minutes.

*James Hoftiezer
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## Rafa_Sant (May 5, 2003)

Don't know if this was asked before, but there it goes!
Why not inject the CO2 in the intake of the pump, it will make the bubble much smaller and easier to dissolve?

Rafa


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Depending on the system, the CO2 could cause air pockets in the pump.

A reactor not only removes the pump from the equation but also allows for a much larger volume of CO2 to be dissolved.

*James Hoftiezer
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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

sorry if this has been asked before. James, do you use a check valve between the reactor and bubble counter?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Actually, that's is a new question









The answer is no. The check valve is between the bubble counter and the regulator. In my case I count on abackflow of water to keep the bubble counter filled. My concern is not getting water into CO2 system of regulator and tank.

*James Hoftiezer
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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

thanks James as always. But i'm afraid i don't understand why you "count on a backflow of water to keep the bubble counter filled." could you explain? and, what qualities do you look for in a check valve? 

thanks. hope all's well.


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## gerritn (Dec 20, 2003)

James,

I am very impressed, and want to build one myself. Question: apart from the clear PVC pipe, where did you pick up the other components? (I just went to local Home Depot, who hardly had any of them, and I also looked at the US plastics web site but could not find all of them (but maybe I overlooked))

Thanks,
Gerrit


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

gerrit,

i didn't have any luck at home depot. of course inventory can vary from location to location. perhaps others have tried lowe's. but i found everything i needed at a specialty plumbing store. the store i found had the added bonus of having the parts displayed in a showroom (as opposed to some places that have all the stock out behind the counter). i'd suggest looking in the yellow pages, then perhaps emailing them a shot of james' setup and asking them if they would have the parts.

i also found several useful parts for building a diy-python-hang-on-tank-gizmo (see pic by roger miller in the build it and they will come section) at this store. good luck.

oh and by the way it helps to take your cannister tubing to the store to make sure you have the right size barbs for a tight fit.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Jart,
If for any reason the bubble counter does run dry, I let the water in the tank run back into the counter.

Gerritn,
Almost all of my parts came from Home Depot and Lowes. Most are standard fittings used in building any house. The one part that I found at only HomeDepot and not lowes is the three way elbow. The hose barbs are tough to find. The 5/8" hose barbs are nearly impossible to come by. USP did have them but then stopped carrying them.

*James Hoftiezer
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Already have been inspired myself









Aside from the clear PVC, everthing can be found at Home Depot. IMHO, clear PVC was not used and I don't really see anything that I might be missing out on.

In my case:
The PVC/Elbows are in one aisle. The flexible tubing in another (braided of course). And the barbs are in yet another aisle. Home Depot's differ from location to location, but be sure to walk around. Parts for the reactor at my Home Depot were in 3 aisles!

Also, the check valve needs to be ordered online. Be sure to inquire about CO2 safe check valves as they can recomend a specific check valve for you. USPlastics works for this part.

Karl

------------------------------
Karl's Parts And Construction Journal 
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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

Karl thanks for your input. turns out i had a brass check valve sitting around from a zillion years ago. i'm pretty sure it is safe for co2 since it's made of brass. it won't come into contact with the water of course so if i decide to keep inverts in the future they'll be safe.

this weekend i'm going to get some 3/4 inch barbs and with some heat and maybe vaseline i'm hoping the 5/8 inch tubing will fit. as i may have said before, the tubing slides onto 1/2 inch barbs _way_ too easily; wouldn't trust that!


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

jart,

You might see if you can find some 5/8" barbs. That's the size the worked best with my Rena tubing.










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

While your at home depot, just grap some metal clamps. They areonly about $0.15 each and will provide a nice tight and secure fit.

karl

------------------------------
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## imported_Matt (Oct 29, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> posted Fri September 05 2003 07:57 PM
> question for james:
> ...


This looks exactly like the stuff I used on my DIY reactor. Actually, I picked it up at HD in the aisle where all the shop vacs and dust collection equipment was. It was like $5-6 for a four foot peice. It was sold under the brand name Rigid for a dust collection system. It will work, you just need a different fitting. I used a PVC fitting that slid inside the tubing. I don't know exactly what it is called but it slides in the tubing and has female threading on the other side. Which is nice because the 5/8" hose barbs that are threaded are easy to find. Basically, after I found the tubing I just walked around the plumbing aisles until I found a combo of parts that worked together the way I needed it to and glued it all together with the clear PVC Cement. I will post pictures tonight if I can figure out how







. I just got a digicam for christmas, now where is that manual.....

Just a couple of notes from my experiences:
1. make sure you have some way to open it up to clean or whatever, just like James's unit.
2. When using DIY CO2 with these, make sure the CO2 system is well sealed. My reactor creates a lot of back pressure. I found that the Yeast reaction will always create enough pressure to push past the check valve if the system is sealed tight enough. I use Teflon Plumbers Tape(home Depot <$1) on the threads of my juice bottle reactor and bubble counter[if I had one). Then silicone on all other joints on the airline, including both sides of the check valve. IME Hot glue did not work long term, it was too rigid and the seal broke after a couple bottle changings. Or go pressurized and don't worry about it
3. IME- placement/mounting is the key to getting all the CO2 dissolved. Mine is mounted vertically just in front of my spraybar on the back of the tank. Sometimes my CO2 burps and sends a larger bubble of CO2 into the reactor(12") and it doesn't all get dissolved before entering the tank(75g). On a friends tank we mounted it totally horizontally in the stand and all the CO2 gets dissolved before it enters the tank and the reactor is only about 8" long on a 90 gallon tank. James right angle fitting helps out alot with dissolving the CO2.

Good thread! Its interesting how it points out how different all of our strengths are. Some of the construction questions seemed really obvious and simple to me, but I can't post a picture, much less resize it, add numbers, and insert a URL. Actually, I can't really run my digital camera


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

***Actually, I picked it up at HD in the aisle where all the shop vacs and dust collection equipment was. It was like $5-6 for a four foot peice. It was sold under the brand name Rigid for a dust collection system. It will work, you just need a different fitting.***

well yeah the correct name is actually ridgid i think. i hope this works out for you. the reason i was looking at lee valley rather than home depot was that at hd i would have to have bought a piece a bazillion feet long. 

***Which is nice because the 5/8" hose barbs that are threaded are easy to find.***


heheh sorry but i beg to differ. i am still looking. congrats on tracking them down.

***I will post pictures tonight if I can figure out how.***

that would be great. plus an excuse to learn to use the camera.

***IME- placement/mounting is the key to getting all the CO2 dissolved. Mine is mounted vertically just in front of my spraybar on the back of the tank. ***

now that's a good idea. especially for those who don't have enough room in the stand. 

***Good thread!***

i agree wholeheartedly. thanks for sharing what you've found out.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

The only place I have found plastic 5/8" fittings was usplastics and they quit carrying them. You can find brass without too much trouble but it seems overkill.

You can get 5/8 hose to fit 3/4 just as you mentioned, with some heat and grease but it will take more effort than you believe. Have a pot of boiling water and some gloves handy.

*James Hoftiezer
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## gerritn (Dec 20, 2003)

So you can use brass fittings instead of the plastic ones? (because I indeed cannot find the right plastic ones)


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by gerritn:
> So you can use brass fittings instead of the plastic ones? (because I indeed cannot find the right plastic ones)


maybe some people with shrimp expertise can chime in as the safety of this?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Responses I have gotten are that brass is a stable allow. In neutral or fairly neutral pH it will have no effect. In acidic waters all bets are off.

In the CO2 reactors the brass contact with water is negligible. In most cases the brass is involved only with the CO2 circuit. Even is you were to use it on all your water fittings the overall the risk would be very small. There are many people who use copper tubing for long runs of CO2 and most older houses use copper pipes.

*James Hoftiezer
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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

ok, so here's my latest dilemna: since the plumbing specialty store is only open m-f 8 till 4 i had to send my better half over to pick up 3/4 inch barbs in place of the 1/2 inch barbs (to best fit the 5/8 inch tubing that comes with the xp3. (i have given up on finding 5/8 inch barb fittings). 

so when i came home from work today she still had the 1/2 inch fittings. since she had taken the 5/8 inch rena tubing to the store, the guy working there, (who was very helpful to her, i will add), told her that it would be extremely difficult to fit that size tubing onto a 3/4 inch barb. he suggested using clamps with the 1/2 inch barbs. looking at the tubing as i type this, i can kinda see his point; it probably would work. but if i did use the 1/2 inch barbs, my concern would be that the barbs would slow down the outflow of the cannister too much. does anyone have any opinion on this? i know it's only 5/8 inch vs 1/2 inch, not much of a difference one might say, but i seem to recall an equation in physics where water flow is proportional to diameter raised to the fourth power.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

You can fit the tubing over 3/4" barbs. I have done it in the past. And I was able to find a source of 5/8" barbs so I no longer have to do that.










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

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## Gomer (Feb 2, 2004)

www.mcmaster.com They carry just about everything you could want.

All sorts of 5/8" options


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

hi james, another question:

in your pics, you are using a different sort of tubing. it is not perfectly clear; it has a sort of white zigzag pattern. like the tubing you see in a home brew store. i assume it's 5/8 inch tubing. is there any reason why you're using this tubing? reason for asking: with my inline heater and reactor, i'm not sure how far the tubing i got with my xp3 will go. i have found 5/8 inch tubing at a hardware store but it seems kinda flimsy. is this why you went with the (presumably more rigid) tubing you are using?


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

The tubing is thread re-inforced PVC. Otherwise known as beverage line. Its waht all the commercial soda/beer dispensers use. It will not kink. You can get it in almost any size at you home depot, lowes, etc. 

In the picutres I am using 1/4" for my CO2 line. It coils nicely and is about 6 ft long so that I can remove it from the stand intact. In order to adapt it to the needle valve I have a small sleeve of regular airline inside of it as an adapter and it is then clamped down. On the reactor side I just used a 1/4" barb.

I've always said if I redid my plumping I would used the beverage line for everything.


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## mooredmb32 (Oct 14, 2005)

James I just built your reactor and at the moment I dont have any bioballs and the moment I have put in a few pan scrubbers and not all the gas is being disolved will this get better with the bioballs???


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

It might but most likely you need higher flow. You may also want to watch it over a longer period of time. Is it that the CO2 fills the cavity or does it just seem to keep an air pocket in there for a long time.


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## mooredmb32 (Oct 14, 2005)

I picked up a few bioballs and it works great now... Thanks James


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## fishstein (Dec 12, 2005)

*DIY-CO2 Reactor - bioballs to reduce fine CO2 bubbles in tank*

Thanks to James for posting your DIY instructions. I just built 2 reactors very similar to James's out of clear 2 in. PVC - one 14.5 in., another 18 in. The first is on a 29g Biocube tank and the second is for a 135g tank. I also used threaded fittings on one end so I can unscrew the reactor to add bioballs.

I started running the 14.5 in. reactor from the outlet of the XP2 filter on the 29g tank, and I didn't use any bioballs but I did tilt the reactor at about 35-40 degrees. I'm getting very good dissolving of CO2 with the plants growing and pearling like mad. However, a very fine mist of super fine CO2 bubbles is getting into the tank because I didn't use bioballs to slow the flow rate. I prefer to see no CO2 bubbles in the tank - just oxygen bubbles from pearling.

When I add bioballs, can I add just a few 1 1/4 in. bioballs to slow the flow rate, say 4-5, or should I half fill the reactor or totally fill it?

If I put in just a few bioballs or half fill the reactor, will the bioballs rattle around and make a lot of noise?

Appreciate any thoughts from anyone who has tried this design with bioballs - it's such a pain to hook up and then take offline to add or remove bioballs later - I'd like to get this right on the first shot.


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