# Potting Mix



## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

If I were to buy potting mix from HD to use in my shrimp tank, what should I watch out for and which ones should I advoid adding?

It's getting cold where I live and its not possible to mineralize the soil in this condition (New England weather).

I want to stay away from eco-complete, my pockets isn't deep enough.


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## 1aqumfish (Jul 28, 2008)

Its the added fertilizers you have to watch out for(Check old posts in this forum it full of them). I know Diana recommends putting fish in right away but for shrimp I would wait till the water tests good for them.


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

Is this one ok?

http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-G...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


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## 1aqumfish (Jul 28, 2008)

I used the cheep home depot brand. Some people use one of the Miracle Grow brand but I don't know the exact one to use. You could check the posts for the one Diana recommends or wait for someone who knows for sure.


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Don't use that one, it has added ferts. If you use MiracleGro brand, use the one that says "Organic Choice". It's in a orange/brown bag rather than the bright green.


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

You mean this one?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Are there any techniques of adding it into an already establish shrimp tank without turning the tank into mud?


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

I'm still not clear about the difference between miracle gro and eco-complete, is it only the price tag?


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Qwertus said:


> You mean this one?
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
> 
> Are there any techniques of adding it into an already establish shrimp tank without turning the tank into mud?


Yep, that's the one. The only way to put it down as a substrate is to empty the tank completely and begin from step 1 (putting down the substrte). You'll have to cap it with something like gravel, eco-complete, sand, etc... You want about 1" or a little less of each layer.

You COULD make 'mud-cubes' in ice trays and freeze them, then push them down into your substrate, but it's messy.

The difference between this stuff and eco-complete and topsoil is that Potting Soil is mostly organic material (peat, composted bark and wood chips, etc... ). The organic matter provides you with CO2 as it decomposes under your substrate. BUT, it also floats, so you need something to weigh it down. Hence, the "cap" layer.

Eco-complete is a fired clay that has no organic matter in it (if it did, it would have burnt up in the firing process). It is largely inert except for some iron held by the clay particles. It is made from a clay that has a very high CEC, meaning it can hold onto nutrients that you add when you fertilize and make them better available to the plant roots.

Topsoil is "topsoil". The top layer of soil from your yard or from anywhere where they get the stuff to bag it up and sell it. It is mineral soil (sand silt and clay - percent of each in the soil will depend on where it's collected) with some organic matter naturally in it (best guess is anywhere from 2 - 9% ). The good thing about topsoil is that it usually has some Phos and Potassium in it (naturally) and can provide those nutrients for a long time in a tank.

In my humble opinion, the best aquarium substrate would be a mix of 'organic potting soil' and 'topsoil' (70/30 , 60/40 , 50/50 , whatever) to give you the best of both worlds. 1" of this mix on the bottom, capped with 1" of something to hold it down (playground sand, gravel, fired clay substrates). (However, I AM having good results from the organic potting soil alone. )

Whatever route you take, take your time and do it right. Gather up all the plants you'll need ahead of time. Plant the plants before you add water (so you don't get substrate flaoting up through the holes you make while planting) and spritz them to keep them wet. When you're ready to fill, do it SLOWLY. Then, don't touch anything for at least a week to let it all settle and let the plants start growing.

You'll be rewarded with a low-maint, lush tank.


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

Tell me if there's something wrong in this technique.

I'll pour the potting soil into a bucket, fill it with water and empty the water several times and then leave it fill with water for 1 week for the soil to gain some weight. I'll add in very small portions at a time since its only a 10 gal. There's a lot of baby shrimps in the tank so I can't really empty it.


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## Rastan71 (Oct 18, 2009)

Davemonkey, when you mix the 2 (top soil & organic potting soil) together and then put them in the aquarium, do you just put it in there loose or pack it down some? 

Also, you suggest only 1" of both layers? Is there a reason to not put a deeper layer of soil (say 2")?

I just bought a new bigger aquarium and I already have a bag of the Miracle Grow organic potting soil. I still need to get the top-soil and gravel. I plan on setting the aquarium up next weekend


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Let us know how it works out. What substrate do you currently have in your tank (I think I missed that) ? You might want to try some "mud ice cubes" as well if you are going to leave the tank set up.


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

The tank has no substrate atm bare tank for shrimps. All I have is floating plants and banana plants since thats my only option.

Mud ice cubes will probably give me lots of frozen shrimps


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Without any substrate in there now, I'd really recommend emptying the tank completely. You can catch all the shrimp into a net as you empty and keep them in a container. And you'll still need something to cap the soil off with. Otherwise, I'd recommend just using gravel or eco-complete. Those, you could pour into your tank without emptying it.

If you were located in Houston I'd come over and help. I know it can be a pain to empty out a tank, but without substrate now it would be MUCH easier, and well worth the effort.


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

How long does it take for the substrate to stop floating? I sorta don't want to cap it with anything, its the texture and color that I want. Do those small tree pieces have tanings or lower pH of my tank?


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

The potting mix will float, no matter what for at least several weeks. If you don't want a cap, go with "topsoil" or soil from your yard. You can put it in a 5gal bucket 1/2 full and then fill with water. Stir up well with your hands, let it settle for 10 minutes, pour off water and "floaties". Do that 5 or 6 times, or until the water looks clean after sitting for 10 minutes.

Then you can put this into your tank the way you want.

-Dave


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

I'm starting to think this will get very messy. I'll siphon the water to a container and then after the water in the tank clears I'll pour that water back in just because this is just a starting shrimp tank, I don't want to dump a large number the babies if I don't have to.

What about the pH of the tank and the hardness? I have a small piece of coral in there to make sure there's calcium for snails and shrimp.


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Rastan71 said:


> Davemonkey, when you mix the 2 (top soil & organic potting soil) together and then put them in the aquarium, do you just put it in there loose or pack it down some?
> 
> Also, you suggest only 1" of both layers? Is there a reason to not put a deeper layer of soil (say 2")?
> 
> I just bought a new bigger aquarium and I already have a bag of the Miracle Grow organic potting soil. I still need to get the top-soil and gravel. I plan on setting the aquarium up next weekend


Davemonkey, you have summarized the soils and general procedure nicely. Thank you for taking the time to "re-invent the wheel".

Organic soils can go anaerobic if they're too deep or covered up with rocks and driftwood. All that organic matter is a great CO2 source, but if its too deep it quickly becomes anaerobic.

That's why I can't say it enough, if you use an organic soil use a 1" layer. (Only hobbyists that know what they're doing should use more.) Cover soil with the least amount of gravel or sand that will hold it down.

I set up two 1 gal bowls with pure Miracle Grow Organic Choice Potting Mix and popped my Red Cherry Shrimp into them the same day. No fuss, no mineralization, etc. Plants and shrimp continue to do very well. The setup will be described in the Dec 2009 issue of FAMA (_Freshwater and Marine Aquarium_). I would get a copy of the magazine and my book.


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Rastan 71, there's something I forgot to qualify regarding the topsoil that I was reminded of in another thread.

Topsoil is great for large/established plants (or Marsilea in my experience), but can cause problems with new plants that have not established much yet (thank you Diana for pointing that out). Be careful with it, and certainly don't disturb your substrate at all for at least several weeks if you use it. The result will be pea soup, about 2 months worth (in my experience  ).


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

I emptied it out last sunday and added the organic soil + the topsoil from my yard. The water looks clear now, I'm currently waiting for a package to arrive that contains the rest of the parts for my diy light ballast.

Usually if I fill the tank with floating aquatic fern (not sure if thats the correct name), how long would the "re-cycle" for the tank takes? I'm using 15 watts CF 6500k on the 10 gal.


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Depends on the tank. Soil will seed a new tank with nitrifying bacteria that may (or may not) work in your aquarium's ecosystem. Rather than guess, you could get ammonia and nitrite test kits to see if your tank is safe for fish.

Your lighting sounds perfect for emergent/floating plants. With this much light and that rich a substrate, you will need these fast-growing plants to suck up nutrients and protect submerged plants from algae.


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## Qwertus (Oct 14, 2008)

WHich fast growing plants do you mean? I'm thinking of adding flame moss at the bottom and grow it into a lawn.


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## Rastan71 (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks Dwalstad & Davemonkey for your advice. I will stay away from topsoil since I'm very new to planted aquariums.  I will have to go look for that issue of the magazine next time I'm near a bookstore.


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Qwertus said:


> WHich fast growing plants do you mean? I'm thinking of adding flame moss at the bottom and grow it into a lawn.


Is this a small tank (you don't specify tank size)?

Some good-growing plants for small tanks are _Sagitarria subulata, Echinodorus tenellus, Rotala rotundifolia, Bacopa monnieri, duckweed, and Marsilea quadrifolia_.

I haven't had much luck so far with the popular "carpet" plants. For example, my Glosso died immediately. My HC (_Hemianthus callitrichoides_) that I planted recently in a 5 gal look pretty awful. I got Baby Tears to grow quite well for several months, but it gradually died out after the tank matured (soil stopped pumping out lots of CO2). These plants need lots of CO2 and special care.

I don't recommend them for anyone starting out with an NPT.

Most NPTs have the jungle look. Manicured lawns are very difficult to set up and maintain. If you want the "lawn look", I would follow the recommendations of Amano and others.


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