# Mineralized soil substrate



## cbwmn (Dec 18, 2007)

I read "HOW TO MINERALIZE SOIL SUBSTRATES" by Aaron Talbot.
I'm going to try it on my new DIY 24 G tank.
I have two questions:
1. Our city water already has an abundance of calcium in it. Do I really need to add Dolomite? I think can dose Magnesium using Epsom salts. And I can control PH by DIY CO2.

2. How long will mineralized soil substrate last? Will i have to do it all over again in six months or so?

I plan to use Daphnia to control green water. I use Daphnia and mosquito larva out of a rain barrel for my fish.

Thank you
Charles (CBWMN):boxing:


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

cbwmn said:


> I read "HOW TO MINERALIZE SOIL SUBSTRATES" by Aaron Talbot.
> I'm going to try it on my new DIY 24 G tank.
> I have two questions:
> 1. Our city water already has an abundance of calcium in it. Do I really need to add Dolomite? I think can dose Magnesium using Epsom salts. And I can control PH by DIY CO2.
> ...


Hi Charles,

I'm glad you liked the article and are willing to give it a shot.

You would probably be okay to omit the dolomite. You could substitute a little crushed coral instead. It's not really for the water column so much as it is to keep the substrate itself from becoming too acidic.

The mineralized soil substrate will last years upon years. Sean Murphy, the fellow who introduced me to this method had 3 tanks that were 10 years old and still growing fantastic plants. Another fellow club member of mine still has those tanks with the same substrate making them about 15 years old.

Daphnia is a great natural way to control green water. Your fish will thank you too.


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## cbwmn (Dec 18, 2007)

Aaron

Thank you for both the advice and the article. Before I read the article, I was going to go with a peat moss under gravel for a substrate. I have soaked the topsoil twice and let it dry out. It already has a sand-like texture. I'm excited about the process (and hopefully the resulting vegetation).

Here are some pics of my 46 BF. 
http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc2/cbwmn/

Three weeks ago I upgraded the filter from a Rena HOB to a Rena XP2. DIY CO2, ferts. Lighting is DIY oak hood w/96W A&H CF.

I had BBA, so I blacked out for 4 days then cut back from 8 hrs to 6 hrs and reduced ferts. Substrate is 5/8" gravel. If all goes well on the new tank, I'll mineralize this one.

I got rid of the Anacharas shown in the older pics.

Thank you again for all of your advice,

Charles Bowman (CBWMN)


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## disvegas (Oct 10, 2008)

AaronT said:


> Hi Charles,
> 
> I'm glad you liked the article and are willing to give it a shot.
> 
> ...


Hi Aaron,

I am another fan of yours ; used the same method of mineralizing the cheap soil and it seems working good for my 30g tank. my amazon swords are getting healthier with the substrate now and i use 16grit sands as the top 1in layer of substrate. I am preparing for another batch of mineralized soil for my upcoming shrimp tanks (maybe 2 to 4 10g tanks).

My question is, with the presuming rich mineralized substrate, do i still need to dose liquid ferts for the plants on a regular basis? many thanks in advance.

Collin,


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

disvegas said:


> Hi Aaron,
> 
> I am another fan of yours ; used the same method of mineralizing the cheap soil and it seems working good for my 30g tank. my amazon swords are getting healthier with the substrate now and i use 16grit sands as the top 1in layer of substrate. I am preparing for another batch of mineralized soil for my upcoming shrimp tanks (maybe 2 to 4 10g tanks).
> 
> ...


Collin,

Yes and no. I've found that potassium becomes limited over time. That is the reason for adding it to the substrate in the initial setup. After 4-6 months or so you'll start to notice potassium deficiency, characterized by pin holes in older leaves and yellowing older leaves. When this becomes apparent begin dosing just a very tiny amount of potassium in the water column. I add only 0.5 ppm per week. It hardly seems like much, but just that little bit makes a world of difference and any more can lead to fuzz algae. You can use either a commercial product such as the one from Seachem or mix your own using potassium sulfate.

I'm glad it's working out for you so far. 

-Aaron


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## disvegas (Oct 10, 2008)

AaronT said:


> Collin,
> 
> Yes and no. I've found that potassium becomes limited over time. That is the reason for adding it to the substrate in the initial setup. After 4-6 months or so you'll start to notice potassium deficiency, characterized by pin holes in older leaves and yellowing older leaves. When this becomes apparent begin dosing just a very tiny amount of potassium in the water column. I add only 0.5 ppm per week. It hardly seems like much, but just that little bit makes a world of difference and any more can lead to fuzz algae. You can use either a commercial product such as the one from Seachem or mix your own using potassium sulfate.
> 
> ...


Aaron,

I put in dolomite and potash (sprinkled on the bottom before adding soil substrate with the initial setup per your instruction. Do I still need to add potassium from time to time? also, if potassium added it wouldn't have any negative effect on my shrimp, would it?

Collin,


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

disvegas said:


> Aaron,
> 
> I put in dolomite and potash (sprinkled on the bottom before adding soil substrate with the initial setup per your instruction. Do I still need to add potassium from time to time? also, if potassium added it wouldn't have any negative effect on my shrimp, would it?
> 
> Collin,


Collin,

No, do not add potassium for several months. The potash you put in will eventually run out and then you will want to begin dosing the very small amount I recommended above. For the time being just sit back and watch it grow.


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## disvegas (Oct 10, 2008)

Aaron,

got it and thanks.


Collin,


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## Timthedrifter (Nov 2, 2008)

I have a question regarding the dolomite, will it raise my ph at all? I'm aiming for 6.5-6.8.. Thanks


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## ingg (Apr 8, 2007)

The dolomite tends to neutralize the soil - I don't think it raises it, I think it doesn't allow the soil to lower it.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Timthedrifter said:


> I have a question regarding the dolomite, will it raise my ph at all? I'm aiming for 6.5-6.8.. Thanks


The amount of dolomite in the soil has a negligible effect on the pH of the water column. It's only to keep the soil from becoming too acidic.


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## fishyface (Feb 7, 2005)

so, my tank is now 16 days old. i pulled up a plant this morning and gagged at the smell that came out of the substrate...thought my dog let one fly beside me, it was that bad! 

all my parameters seem fine. if it's compaction issues i'm still on the lookout for MST to keep things stirred up a bit. is this a typical stage the substrate might be going through or is it a bad sign?


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## ingg (Apr 8, 2007)

Not typical.

How many wet/dry cycles did you do?

How thick was the base of soil you put in under your cap?


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## fishyface (Feb 7, 2005)

ingg, i followed the tutorial to the T. i did 4 cycles of soaking and drying and soil base was about 1" under about 1-1.5" of pool filter sand.


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## fishyface (Feb 7, 2005)

*update*: well i did some poking around in the substrate today and got nothing else like that rank smell so perhaps it was just one anoxic area. whatever the case i'm happy it's not the whole tank 8-[.


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