# Beard Algae/Green thread algae



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

I thought I had confronted every algae there was. Gsa, diatoms, bga, BBA, staghorn, dust, fuzz, hair. I was mistaken.

I just noticed a small patch of beard algae growing on the side of one of my rocks. I would take a picture but it is pretty thin still and my camera is pretty crappy. This algae looks identical to whats listed as Beard algea in the plant geek algae list. I looked for something like this in the algea finder and found the green thread algae with the same pick. So how does one get beard algae and how do you get rid of it. My tank:

29g

Plants:Cabomba (green one), Anubias nana, Glossostigma elatinoides, Blyxa japonica, Microsorum pteropus, Riccia, Ranununculus inundatus, Dwarf hair grass, Ludwigia ovalis, ludwiga palustris, Ludwigia pantanal, Ludwigia cuba, Rotala macrandra v. Narrow leaf, Hydrocotyle verticillata, Hygrophila corymbosa 'angustifolia', Salvinia minima.

Fish:
2-3 ottos
7 silver tip tetras
4 A. bitaeniata
5?-amano shrimp

Equipment:
DIY co2 2-1gallon containers 1 switched every week
Reactor- Powerhead into gravel cleaner tube
Xp2
2*65w Coralife Aqualight 4hrs on 4hrs off 5hrs on

Water: Ferts are dosed daily except for k and Mg
KH: 4
Gh: ?7 (havent checked in a long time)
NH4: 0
NO2: 0
No3:20
P: ? I dose quite a bit to keep gsa away
k:dose a little extra whenn I get droopy/curling leaves
Mg: I dose this when I get droopy/curling leaves 
Ca: Dont dose
Micros: Seachem flourish - almost out thinking about buying TMG

Substrate: Sand


----------



## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

As to how you got it - I can't tell you, but diy CO2 fluctuations could be a reason. As to how to get rid of it - if all you have is a small patch on a rock, here's two easy options. Take out the rock, and dip the algae'd part into some boiling water. Voila - cooked algae which your ottos will enjoy. If it's too much trouble to move the rock out, when you do a water change, with your filter turned off, pour a full dose of Excel over the rock. In about 5 minutes, turn your filter back on. In 3-4 days your algae will be turning white, and in another 3-4 days it will be gone. HTH.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

yah I figured It was related to co2. For some reason it always is. 

I know how to remove it. I was curious how to keep it from coming back. Is the solution more co2? I hoped when I got rid of the bba I had stabilized the co2 more. Guess I was wrong. 

I decided to have a noonday burst instead of the split times. I will try to lower the light so I dont tread on such a thin line. I think the plants grow fine on the lower light so why not. The only plant I worry about is my Ludwigia Pantanal it just started its submersed growth and I want to make sure it has enough light to really get established. I figure 2.25 with a noon burst should be enough. 

Thanks for the advice Bert I think I will boil it if it starts to grow. Right now it would be a real pain to remove since its holing down a lot of anubias and its got java fern attached. I am planning on purchasing a 2or4 liter excel in the near future(along with other stuff for my new tank) and will try that out. In my experience excel is an excellent algaecide I used it on the bba and the staghorn a while back.


----------



## yxberia (Apr 19, 2005)

I have BBA problem before. Now they are hardly found.
You will need few SAEs and UV light. Get those UVC set that has power compact UV tube, at least 9W. Switch on for 12 hours a day, I would do it during non-photo period as UV lamp increase water temperature. You might also consider to bring up the pH a bit as I found BBA thrive in acidic medium. BBA are found in highly acidic black water naturally.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

I currently dont have any Black Brush Algae (BBA). I understand the SAE's but how does a uv light affect algae already established in the tank. 

Since my problem is beard algae (lots of fine green hairs very close together, swaying in the current.) I will assume your suggestions dont specifically apply. 

I dont want to introduce SAE unless I have to because I think my tank has enough fish. So far my plan is to nuke it with either excel or dip it in boiling water.


----------



## yxberia (Apr 19, 2005)

BBA comes in many colors. I have 3 different colors of Beard Algae - red, brown and black, you name it.  

BBA (or other algae) spray their seeds into water to replicate. You will normally find BBA sticks to the filter outlet nozzle. This will facilitate the replication effortlessly. You will also find them appear on the tank wall near the outlet. Which suggest how BBA replicates - via spores. The word "swaying" indicates it has found the good spot to replicate !:razz: 

To get rid of BBA (or other algae) there are 2 main things need to be done:
1. Physical removal of existing algae factory- SAE to help.
2. Destroy their next generation - UVC.

I live in tropical country, high temperature here attracts various kind or algae. Here, the battle against algae is many times harder. Since UVC price has dropped many times over, it is worth investing ?


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

I dont have BBA. It is not red (i had that), its not black(i had that), never had the brown stuff. 

How effective are sae at consuming Beard algae its green and fur like. It is a thin patch at the moment. I dont like the idea of sae since I dont want to raise the fish load. 

When I asked what caused it I meant what conditions in the water induced a breakout not how it reproduces. 

I understand UVC kills waterborn spores but how efficient is this. I cant imagine it getting all of the spores and from what I have read its not that effective at controlling any algae except for GW. 

I appreciate the replies I just think you misunderstood what my problem was.


----------



## yxberia (Apr 19, 2005)

Sometimes the cause of the problem is a problem that cause more problems than problem itself.  
We can start speculating here and there but it doesn't help solving the problem. 

No one knows how an algae could suddenly present itself. They are either airborne or they come with your fish (inside their intestine?). SAE is VERY effective if you get the genuine "young" SAE and not the Flying Fox. I saw them munch on the BBA savagely. You only need 2 - 4 small SAEs, that would be sufficient. 

What you "ultimately" want is to remove those hellish algae ? Then I would like to share with you my fruitful effort.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

I guess the cause I was looking for was something to the effect lack of no3 or exces nh4 or not enough co2. 

I will look into the sae if it is the only effective means of removing it. I cant see how either one of these will help keep it away without knowing whats causing the algae. A few spores will always survive. 

I think the uvc and sae are a good combination to eliminate algae. The only problem I have with this is that if beard algae can grow then my plants arent out competing it. Is this algae superior to plants in allocation of resources. If so then your solution seems effective. If not how can I allow my plants to outcompete the algae.


----------



## yxberia (Apr 19, 2005)

You cannot out compete BA, BBA in my case. I can assure you that. 
BBA is different animal, they like acidic medium. They enjoy CO2. They survive long blackout. They don't response to algicide. You can even dry them but they will resurrect when soaked with water after 1 year !

I have 1 year-old soil tank with BBA in early 2006. So, I decide to introduce UVC and 4 SAEs into my 4 footer. The BBA has almost been wipe-out after 3 weeks.

I've also dumped in 10 yamato shrimps. But they didn't help much.

To win over the battle, you will need to physically destroy their ammo factories FIRST. SAE is the answer as they will do it automatically. Or you could use your hands to remove them. Then UVC to control their growth.

Algae and plant coexist in nature, no one can change that. But we can certainly put them under control.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

Just to make sure. Are you talking about this:
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/red-algae.html

or whats listed as beard algae on this page:
http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9

The algae I have is the later. I just want to make sure since they are often both called beard algae.


----------



## yxberia (Apr 19, 2005)

The B is confusing enough. I would call mine as Brush in this case. It is the 1st one.
But what is the difference if they spread via spore, or do they ?


----------



## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

I have never owned or used a UV so can't comment on that.

I have consistently been able to beat back BBA by ensuring that CO2 levels are high enough and that there is no lack of any of the other plant nutrients. And in tanks with pH ranges from 6.0 through to above 7.0 and temps from 24 C through 29-30C.

Of course this has always been in well lighted, very well planted tanks. Other types of tanks may require different solutions.

While a combination of UV and SAEs may beat back the algae, the cause is not being addressed...


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

I have the second one. I solved the first one by increasing co2 I scrubbed it off and it never came back. I assume this as because my plants outcompeted it. I have no idea how beard algae grows. It started right on and next to the root of a java fern that I bought from my lfs a couple of months ago. It is slowly growing so I still have some time to come up with a solution before it spreads to much. I am curious if SAE for sure will eat this type of algae. I know all algae eaters dont eat all types of algae.


----------



## turbomkt (Mar 31, 2004)

William,
I never had luck with SAE's eating it. But making sure you're on top of ferts and CO2 should keep it in check. I'd recommend trimming whatever has it on there and let things grow in.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

Its on one of the rocks. I would have to pull out quite a few anubias and some plants attached to it to clean it off properly. I wont really have much free time until this weekend. I will do a thorough cleaning and make sure I clean all the rocks.


----------



## turbomkt (Mar 31, 2004)

You might also try spot treating with hydrogen peroxide.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

I got bored of my english assignment and just scrubbed it off with a tooth brush. I think its probably related to my fluctuating co2. I cant believe how annoying DIY co2 can get. If I didnt have to buy so much stuff for my new tank I would definetly be tempted to buy a co2 system for this tank. I am pretty sure my ferts are all in order since I dose daily and dont have any more gsa, bga or staghorn that I had problems with when I had a deficiency. The only algae that comes back is thread algae and now this stuff. I have bba every once and a while when my co2 goes bad, I havent seen any new bba on the rocks only one or two small old patches. I think I will get more excel. It worked well for me before except I think it was the reason my Riccia did so poorly. I think I may turn this tank into a low maintenance tank and put all of my time into my new tank. Thanks for all the help. If it comes back I will seek further advice. Hopefully it wont.


----------



## slickwillislim (Oct 11, 2005)

Dangit. It spread from that rock onto my glosso. It covered a lot of it with a bunch of fine hairs. I pulled it up and put any I found with the algae into a cup and plan on a light bleach treatment. I took the rocks out and placed them in a bucket with boiling water. I noticed some on my blyxa as well. I want to stop this before it becomes a problem.

Are sae's my only solution. I will try to find some excel if I can find some. Any other Ideas.


----------

