# Regulator Build Thread: Completed and Ongoing Projects



## mathman

Here's my plan for two Hoke metering valves:




























~Cristian


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## neilshieh

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*

that's a very interesting design Christian! It's always nice when people try new configuration rather than the same old stuff all the time.

The fun part with these compact designs is figuring out how to screw the darn thing together LOL


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## mathman

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*



neilshieh said:


> that's a very interesting design Christian! It's always nice when people try new configuration rather than the same old stuff all the time.
> 
> The fun part with these compact designs is figuring out how to screw the darn thing together LOL


Thanks buddy! I wish I had purchased the two tone parker that oldpunk got when I had the chance. I actually made an offer and they countered with what seem high at the moment. To come to think of it it probably wasn't. Oh well.


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## neilshieh

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*



mathman said:


> Thanks buddy! I wish I had purchased the two tone parker that oldpunk got when I had the chance. I actually made an offer and they countered with what seem high at the moment. To come to think of it it probably wasn't. Oh well.


When it comes to buying regulators theres only three kinds of feelings. 
1. immense satisfaction at a great deal
2. buyers remorse... shoulda offered even lower
3. should've could've would've... damn.


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## mathman

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*



neilshieh said:


> When it comes to buying regulators theres only three kinds of feelings.
> 
> 1. immense satisfaction at a great deal
> 
> 2. buyers remorse... shoulda offered even lower
> 
> 3. should've could've would've... damn.


Yeah...I'm at #3 even after 3 days. Lol.


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## mathman

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*

@flyinghellfish

Thanks!

Alright...
Here's the post body completely done and attached to my HPT 500.




























~Cristian


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## flowerfishs

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*

First build Harris HP742 SS










Second build ir6000



















They are not actually finished. Just a quick build to test out parts and metering valve.
I like the look of the first build, second build looks ..

For the first 4 turns of the 22, there is no bubble until 4.5 turns. normal?


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## Bettatail

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*



flowerfishs said:


> First build SGT500
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> Second build ir6000
> 
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> 
> They are not actually finished. Just a quick build to test out parts and metering valve.
> I like the look of the first build, second build looks ..
> 
> For the first 4 turns of the 22, there is no bubble until 4.5 turns. normal?


No rush, wait until you get the KIP solenoids, and use them, they are 3 watts, quite expensive solenoids if they are the stainless steel version, the brass version is about $50-$60 a piece.

or wait for the Burkerts--those rare 2 watts version, use them with the stainless steel regulator, you are really lucky to get these solenoids, if it is possible, I would like one, for collection purpose.

the first system, better put it in category of Harris, which is Harris HP742 stainless steel regulator.

I am not sure the 22 series, because the needle stem position is slightly different for each valve, check leak, if there is no leak, 4 turns to see bubble, should be ok.


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## mathman

Here's another of my completed all SS unit:




























~Cristian


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## flowerfishs

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*



Bettatail said:


> No rush, wait until you get the KIP solenoids, and use them, they are 3 watts, quite expensive solenoids if they are the stainless steel version, the brass version is about $50-$60 a piece.
> 
> or wait for the Burkerts--those rare 2 watts version, use them with the stainless steel regulator, you are really lucky to get these solenoids, if it is possible, I would like one, for collection purpose.
> 
> the first system, better put it in category of Harris, which is Harris HP742 stainless steel regulator.
> 
> I am not sure the 22 series, because the needle stem position is slightly different for each valve, check leak, if there is no leak, 4 turns to see bubble, should be ok.


I got those burkerts. They are huge and heavy compare to the 200. I think the 1/8 inlet and outlet is slightly different, It can't fit in the male 1/8 npt. The kip solenoid will come tomorrow.
If you want one, I can send you one.

side to side compare


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## Bettatail

*Re: CO2 Regulator Parts Deal Watcher*



flowerfishs said:


> I got those burkerts. They are huge and heavy compare to the 200. I think the 1/8 inlet and outlet is slightly different, It can't fit in the male 1/8 npt. The kip solenoid will come tomorrow.
> If you want one, I can send you one.
> 
> side to side compare


thank you, but will do fair exchange, 

the final version of the long due matheson.


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## mathman

@flowerfish

Wow! That's a huge difference in size. 

@bettatail

Great looking unit! Are you using two solenoids? Also, what brand bubble counter are you using? What are your experiences with its built in check valve?


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## Bettatail

mathman said:


> @flowerfish
> 
> Wow! That's a huge difference in size.
> 
> @bettatail
> 
> Great looking unit! Are you using two solenoids? Also, what brand bubble counter are you using? What are your experiences with its built in check valve?


yes, two solenoids, 
the bubble counter are the cheapo, the push through pressure is high, and not consistent, but work, because the co2 system, is a system, once whole system(from the regulator to the diffuser), reach the perfect balance, the the flow rate and pressure at any specific section, will hold steady.


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## oldpunk78

Anyone else hate waiting for stuff to ship?

I've got everything but the stuff I could just run to the hardware store and get. Stupid parker distributor. I only rant because I've been wanting to do one of these 2 - tone regulators for forever and I finally have everything except the stupid run of the mill pipe fittings. I haven't been excited about seeing how one of these things comes out in while. All brass fittings all 2 - tone components. Should be a pretty compact design too.

Waiting... :/


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## neilshieh

oldpunk78 said:


> Anyone else hate waiting for stuff to ship?
> 
> I've got everything but the stuff I could just run to the hardware store and get. Stupid parker distributor. I only rant because I've been wanting to do one of these 2 - tone regulators for forever and I finally have everything except the stupid run of the mill pipe fittings. I haven't been excited about seeing how one of these things comes out in while. All brass fittings all 2 - tone components. Should be a pretty compact design too.
> 
> Waiting... :/


atleast they aren't backordered haha. it's annoying i'm still working on a customer's manifold, i have chrome fittings on hand and they're actually cheaper than buying brass fittings from home depot but for the sake of color uniformity i really want to use brass fittings lol.


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## mathman

oldpunk78 said:


> Anyone else hate waiting for stuff to ship?
> 
> I've got everything but the stuff I could just run to the hardware store and get. Stupid parker distributor. I only rant because I've been wanting to do one of these 2 - tone regulators for forever and I finally have everything except the stupid run of the mill pipe fittings. I haven't been excited about seeing how one of these things comes out in while. All brass fittings all 2 - tone components. Should be a pretty compact design too.
> 
> Waiting... :/


Your excitement makes me feel bad.

...can't wait to see the finished product.


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## flowerfishs

will replace the 2" nipple to the 1.5". Ordered on a local retail store.

Brand new mini dual stage. The hoke is a perfect match.
Actually I like the hoke better than my other valves except the h3A on my harris hp742.


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## neilshieh

flowerfishs said:


> will replace the 2" nipple to the 1.5". Ordered on a local retail store.
> 
> Brand new mini dual stage. The hoke is a perfect match.
> Actually I like the hoke better than my other valves except the h3A on my harris hp742.


you finally found the 1.5" brass! did your local store have to special order it?


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## mathman

Great job! Looks beautiful.


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## flowerfishs

neilshieh said:


> you finally found the 1.5" brass! did your local store have to special order it?


I don't get it yet. I ordered this week and wait for them to call me for pick up. not special order. They told me they use to have the 1.5", but people complained that it's too short, so they just sell the 2". They said they can order it for me if I want the 1.5".


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## neilshieh

Someone sent me their system to add a 3 port manifold option, replace lp gauge, and wanted it as compact as possible. First time making one and didn't bother to hide thread tape (he doesn't care). The 1/8 npt nipple on the fabco nv-55-18 was left open because he wants to install a bubble counter there. comments?


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## AaronT

It might have been a tad more compact to have all 3 needle valves facing up like that, but I imagine it was a matter of parts on hand, which it often is.  

Looks pretty good to me though man. I hope he's running a 20 lb. tank if he's running 3 needle valves.


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## neilshieh

AaronT said:


> It might have been a tad more compact to have all 3 needle valves facing up like that, but I imagine it was a matter of parts on hand, which it often is.
> 
> Looks pretty good to me though man. I hope he's running a 20 lb. tank if he's running 3 needle valves.


I originally planned to build it with all valves facing up but after i dry fitted everything together it was a lot wider than i had imagined. He's putting this beneath his cabinet and he has a horizontal length limitation so by putting the fabco nv's vertically I save the most space. It also takes the load of the weight off the 10-32 fittings.

Yeah the linde cb 200 regulator is hella heavy haha. I'll make sure to tell him to secure the co2 cylinder.


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## clopez1

I feel so plain building a 1 output regulator now that everyone's building multiples.


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## flowerfishs

neilshieh said:


> Someone sent me their system to add a 3 port manifold option, replace lp gauge, and wanted it as compact as possible. First time making one and didn't bother to hide thread tape (he doesn't care). The 1/8 npt nipple on the fabco nv-55-18 was left open because he wants to install a bubble counter there. comments?


looks like it's a lot bigger than the SGT500


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## FlyingHellFish

flowerfishs said:


> looks like it's a lot bigger than the SGT500


He sent the item to you and pay you money to do that? 

That a Redline by Linde, rebrand by AGA, I always thought that regulator looked a bit weird, you know what I'm talking 

Good build Neil!, how did it look before?


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## neilshieh

flowerfishs said:


> looks like it's a lot bigger than the SGT500


yeah much bigger. My sgt 500 is much more compact (not to mention way lighter :hail. If you look through my posts on the regulator watch thread my sgt 500 is actually shorter than my hpt 500.



FlyingHellFish said:


> He sent the item to you and pay you money to do that?
> 
> That a Redline by Linde, rebrand by AGA, I always thought that regulator looked a bit weird, you know what I'm talking
> 
> Good build Neil!, how did it look before?


Yup, I actually get requests to work on systems quite often pretty often. I know bettatail does as well and I wouldn't be surprised if oldpunk did too. The whole DIY regulator thing is quite daunting. I remember feeling so overwhelmed by all the model numbers for regulators and all the numbers/models for metering valves. I learned the ropes 1-2 years ago and there's been a massive increase of info on all this stuff since then, imagine how much of a headache it must be for new people trying to build a regulator haha. I usually help people in my local club but heck, if someone is willing to pay for parts labor and shipping both ways I'll do it lol.

SHHH don't mar the beauty of this regulator for others. 
Here's the original pict of what he had bought. Whoever the previous owner was did a number on the regulator... wrench marks here and there, scraped off the chrome plating with a wrench on some parts, used fittings that were supposed to be 1/8 npt but I don't think they are npt, and a horribly messy teflon tape job. I thought my teflon tape job on this reg was pretty sloppy already lol

I recycled as many parts from the original build as possible to keep the costs down if you were wondering about my interesting choice of fittings there haha


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## FlyingHellFish

^ The rebuild regulator looks much better than the big/small gauge build. And those Redline are considered top dog in Linde's line up. I just think the regulator itself is a bit comical, being silver and cylinder shape like that.


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## flowerfishs

I think they bought those fitting from homedepot. Not labeled as npt but did fit with npt.


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## flowerfishs

ir6000 final build.


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## oldpunk78

^ Nice. 

A page or two back I had mentioned that I was waiting on some parts to show up. They cancelled my order! And didn't bother to tell me!! The waiting continues. ..


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## AaronT

oldpunk78 said:


> ^ Nice.
> 
> A page or two back I had mentioned that I was waiting on some parts to show up. They cancelled my order! And didn't bother to tell me!! The waiting continues. ..


Gotta love when that happens. Zorotools has good prices on the parker fittings and their shipping is cheap, like $5.


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## mathman

+1 on Zorotools

I was surprised when they shipped my fittings on a large box enough to fit an HPT 500.


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## oldpunk78

Yuuuup


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## mathman

Huge box for a couple fittings. It had me thinking for awhile if I had ordered another regulator.


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## FlyingHellFish

I would like to join in on this discussion of boxes. Here mine.


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## mathman

FlyingHellFish said:


> I would like to join in on this discussion of boxes. Here mine.


Seriously bro, enough with the mystery and unveil what the box holds! Hehe


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## FlyingHellFish

It's bad luck to show the regulator before finishing the leak test. 

That is a huge box for fittings by the way, how many did you order?


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## mathman

FlyingHellFish said:


> It's bad luck to show the regulator before finishing the leak test.
> 
> That is a huge box for fittings by the way, how many did you order?


3 elbows and 1 tee...maybe they made a mistake.


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## clopez1

FlyingHellFish said:


> It's bad luck to show the regulator before finishing the leak test.
> 
> That is a huge box for fittings by the way, how many did you order?


I believe that! It happened to me.. No pics of my next regulator until I know it works.


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## FlyingHellFish

Yay, Concoa 212 pass.










Anyways, here the 312 swimming with it's fatter brother.










It was shipped with bubble wrap, plus the pink peanuts. Now that how you ship!

My friend has a choice between this and a Concoa 312 (15psi max) that in the mail. He doesn't know which one to get.


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## mathman

Congrats! How often do you alternate between regulators so that they see some usage and not just stored?


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## FlyingHellFish

Oh, nono, I needed the CGA 320 to leak test the red Praxair 212. I sent in an offer for the red Praxair not expecting to win, the guy I'm helping out, end up winning his own regulator. 

I'm selling this unit at cost, and I also have another unit coming in, a Concoa 312. Another friend buying one of the system at cost, no idea which one though. I would love to keep the red Praxair, I already have a 312. 

Praxair 212 for 40 bucks
Concoa 312 for 30 bucks

I don't think any body alternate between Co2 system, maybe alternating Co2 cylinders yeah.

I'll make a video on the Parker HR, Swagelok S and the Hoke on 3 different system for comparison, oh and a retail Aquatic Life Co2 regulator for kicks and giggles. 
You guys already know the Parker will win, but it be a nice comparison.


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## AaronT

It's always a good feeling when they pass the leak test.  I've been rotating mine out for testing purposes, but I don't recommend it because you have to keep redialing in the CO2 each time you setup a new one.


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## mathman

Just an idea:










Don't remember if this is oldpunk's or Bettatail's. Nonetheless, it is a beautiful arrangement.


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## oldpunk78

mathman said:


> Just an idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't remember if this is oldpunk's or Bettatail's. Nonetheless, it is a beautiful arrangement.


It was oldpunk's :hail:


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## Charlie 1

mathman said:


> Just an idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't remember if this is oldpunk's or Bettatail's. Nonetheless, it is a beautiful arrangement.


That is exactly how I would do a 212 if I lay my hands on one.
Fittings - have (stainless)
metering valve -have
solenoid- have
CGA 320 on route
don`t have 212  hint hint


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## flowerfishs

oldpunk78 said:


> It was oldpunk's :hail:


those brass fittings are standout.


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## mathman

I want to see people post their current system!


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## oldpunk78

mathman said:


> I want to see people post their current system!


Someone might get a chuckle out of this.

My current garage set up.










:crys:

Still waiting for cancelled orders to show up. Just ordered a solenoid for the second time this evening. I'm getting frustrated. Plenty of time to plan a scape I guess.


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## mathman

oldpunk78 said:


> Someone might get a chuckle out of this.
> 
> My current garage set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :crys:
> 
> Still waiting for cancelled orders to show up. Just ordered a solenoid for the second time this evening. I'm getting frustrated. Plenty of time to plan a scape I guess.


Oh wow lol... This from oldpunk? Haha...come on bro!


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## oldpunk78

mathman said:


> Oh wow lol... This from oldpunk? Haha...come on bro!


Oh the shame


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## FlyingHellFish

Hey guys,

Guess what came in the mail today? A paper envelope with a piece of paper saying that I brought two Hoke. That is all.




























So this guy decides to ship a package with a paper envelope containing 2 boxes across the country. He used tape on one side and didn't brother to make sure it's secure.

Help?


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## mathman

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Guess what came in the mail today? A paper envelope with a piece of paper saying that I brought two Hoke. That is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this guy decides to ship a package with a paper envelope containing 2 boxes across the country. He used tape on one side and didn't brother to make sure it's secure.
> 
> Help?


I'm so sorry this happened bro...have you contacted the seller?


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## FlyingHellFish

^ Thanks Mathman, 

I created a ticket with ebay. It was strange that I found this in my mail box (very small community box) , usually I get a note and I pick it up from the front desk. This deal was made with ebay's global sender, so I'm kind of dreading going against the almighty ebay's version of ups.

There a local person I'm helping out, he building his first Co2 system and his Hoke arrived today too. Despite the cheap envelope and one thin side of tape, his Hoke is fine.


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## flowerfishs

it's sad to see $55 worth of goods ship in an envelope.


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## oldpunk78

flowerfishs said:


> it's sad to see $55 worth of goods ship in an envelope.


File a claim now. Don't wait for the seller. Items not received!


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## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> File a claim now. Don't wait for the seller. Items not received!


I decided to take Oldpunk advice and sent a claim for "item not received". Supposedly that was the wrong thing to do. The "item not received" claim will be denied because the tracking number says it arrived. I lose that claim automatically.

I should of gone with "item not as describe" as that is the proper claim for empty packages.

With the shipping, I'm out of 60 ish dollars now.

This wasn't even for me, I was building one for a friend. Argh, c'est la vie (that's life).


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## clopez1

They already made a decision? If not there is hope. I have read a lot about cases since I just filed a SNAD (shipment not as described) with ebay. There are cases where people got empty boxes and won even with delivery conformation.


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## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> I decided to take Oldpunk advice and sent a claim for "item not received". Supposedly that was the wrong thing to do. The "item not received" claim will be denied because the tracking number says it arrived. I lose that claim automatically.
> 
> I should of gone with "item not as describe" as that is the proper claim for empty packages.
> 
> With the shipping, I'm out of 60 ish dollars now.
> 
> This wasn't even for me, I was building one for a friend. Argh, c'est la vie (that's life).


Whoops. Sorry man.


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## _wastedtime

FlyingHellFish said:


> I decided to take Oldpunk advice and sent a claim for "item not received". Supposedly that was the wrong thing to do. The "item not received" claim will be denied because the tracking number says it arrived. I lose that claim automatically.
> 
> I should of gone with "item not as describe" as that is the proper claim for empty packages.
> 
> With the shipping, I'm out of 60 ish dollars now.
> 
> This wasn't even for me, I was building one for a friend. Argh, c'est la vie (that's life).


Wow this sucks. You received an empty box.. Which means you did not receive the item. Can you not escalate this somehow?


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## Charlie 1

Sorry to hear of your misfortune bud 
Why not try calling them & explain what happened?


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## Charlie 1

Charlie 1 said:


> Sorry to hear of your misfortune bud
> Why not try calling them & explain what happened?


 you need a 1 time passcode when you click call us it`s generated


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## flowerfishs

FlyingHellFish said:


> I decided to take Oldpunk advice and sent a claim for "item not received". Supposedly that was the wrong thing to do. The "item not received" claim will be denied because the tracking number says it arrived. I lose that claim automatically.
> 
> I should of gone with "item not as describe" as that is the proper claim for empty packages.
> 
> With the shipping, I'm out of 60 ish dollars now.
> 
> This wasn't even for me, I was building one for a friend. Argh, c'est la vie (that's life).


you still have a chance to file a "item not as describe" case again. Then send the envelop back to the seller with the tracking number.


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## clopez1

May not be a good time to post my new build but here it is...


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## Charlie 1

clopez1 said:


> May not be a good time to post my new build but here it is...


Good job - why 2 push to connect?


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## flowerfishs

clopez1 said:


> May not be a good time to post my new build but here it is...


do you use the wrong port for the outlet?


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## clopez1

The push to connect on the line is a check valve and no, both outlets are low so either can be used..I like to be a bit different.


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## FlyingHellFish

Hey guys, can you do me a favour and check the envelope the Hoke came in. I want to see what the weight is, mine is 0.10Kg which is 100 grams.

Do you guys think 2 hoke, envelope and paper would be 100 grams? 

I'm grasping at straws here....


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## flowerfishs

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey guys, can you do me a favour and check the envelope the Hoke came in. I want to see what the weight is, mine is 0.10Kg which is 100 grams.
> 
> Do you guys think 2 hoke, envelope and paper would be 100 grams?
> 
> I'm grasping at straws here....


It should be close to 1lbs.


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## oldpunk78

I'm really starting to think this ir6200 isn't going to take flight. My B-4-RSE-2 came in the mail today. Well... actually, some crazy stainless vcr assembly came in its place. WTF? LOL


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## FlyingHellFish

New way to scam?

Package poorly and add a return address on the item.
Package ships out and item falls out.
Package reaches buyer
Item is returned to sender

Buyer file claim
Seller post "delivered" status from tracking number

ebay closes case base on insufficient evidence

===========================

Ebay must of looked at the weight and said "Ooh hellz no". I got a full refund from ebay not the seller.

Ebay's ruling - click to enlarge and read









Avoid these two bone heads,









------


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## clopez1

Weird, I had no problem with that seller. He did ship UPS though so it's different here. Cool Clean that is.


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## oldpunk78

I was probably just a case of poor packaging. :/


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## AaronT

clopez1 said:


> May not be a good time to post my new build but here it is...


Nice, I like it. Didn't the old build have a different metering valve or is that my imagination?


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## AaronT

I got some from cool clean in an envelope as well, but it was the regular seal on the envelope and not tape. The ad was a tiny misleading in that it said "new in bow," and no box was sent, but they were also bubble wrapped individually inside the envelope.


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## clopez1

Same needle valve, just moved things around this time to get it to be a bit closer to the regulator.


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## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> New way to scam?
> 
> Package poorly and add a return address on the item.
> Package ships out and item falls out.
> Package reaches buyer
> Item is returned to sender
> 
> Buyer file claim
> Seller post "delivered" status from tracking number
> 
> ebay closes case base on insufficient evidence
> 
> ===========================
> 
> Ebay must of looked at the weight and said "Ooh hellz no". I got a full refund from ebay not the seller.
> 
> Ebay's ruling - click to enlarge and read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Avoid these two bone heads,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------


Kudos to E Bay, unfortunately you don`t have the valves.
Happy you got your money back


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## FlyingHellFish

^ Thanks Charlie! 

I got some more info on why this happens, and why it's not the sellers' fault, well not entirely their fault.

The Global Saver Pitney Bowes Inc that ebay uses is their personal "USPS" service. The seller ships the item to Pitney Bowes, and the shipping is charged to the buyer.
Both seller and buyer are protected from missing items. 

Now here is the part where everything goes wrong. Once Pitney Bowes gets the item, they open it, declare the value and does the custom work to get it clear in your country. The "ebay" tape I was talking about is place by the high school drop out hired by Pitney Bowes. 

Anyways, the problem was not entirely the sellers fault. I had another ace up my sleeves if my claims were denied, the credit card charge back. The more middle man you put in-between, the more chances you get your money back. 

Hope this helps other.


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## mathman

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Thanks Charlie!
> 
> I got some more info on why this happens, and why it's not the sellers' fault, well not entirely their fault.
> 
> The Global Saver Pitney Bowes Inc that ebay uses is their personal "USPS" service. The seller ships the item to Pitney Bowes, and the shipping is charged to the buyer.
> Both seller and buyer are protected from missing items.
> 
> Now here is the part where everything goes wrong. Once Pitney Bowes gets the item, they open it, declare the value and does the custom work to get it clear in your country. The "ebay" tape I was talking about is place by the high school drop out hired by Pitney Bowes.
> 
> Anyways, the problem was not entirely the sellers fault. I had another ace up my sleeves if my claims were denied, the credit card charge back. The more middle man you put in-between, the more chances you get your money back.
> 
> Hope this helps other.


That's interesting...in that case, I would blame the middle person completely. Perhaps the seller did a great job with the packaging.

Anyways, I'm glad the story has a happy ending.


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## bbjai

Hi everyone I have a bunch of noobie questions. just starting a build for my tank and just received the hoke a few days ago. I would like to find out if these fittings would work for a 1/8" gyrolok outlet from Swagelok as there is a distributor near me. Flowerfish pointed me to a adapter on ebay and it lead me to this fitting but I'm not sure if i selected everything properly would this adapter fit into the hokes gyrolok outlet?

http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...1-2&item=20b6dcb5-5a04-42f1-9df7-a5d3fd3672c3

Second questions also about fittings. I was on barreport and came across this : http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings

Instead of using an adapter would this swagelok plug work the same with the hoke gyrolok? (Does plug parts mean there is no hole on the top and its meant to stop air flow or is it just a term for a nut?):
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...0-P&item=0c0b2cd7-9ccc-4de3-9dd6-3c70e2fdde61

Lol please bear with me for this last question is 1/8" gyrolok equivalent to 1/8" swagelok tube fitting?


----------



## AaronT

bbjai said:


> Hi everyone I have a bunch of noobie questions. just starting a build for my tank and just received the hoke a few days ago. I would like to find out if these fittings would work for a 1/8" gyrolok outlet from Swagelok as there is a distributor near me. Flowerfish pointed me to a adapter on ebay and it lead me to this fitting but I'm not sure if i selected everything properly would this adapter fit into the hokes gyrolok outlet?
> 
> http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...1-2&item=20b6dcb5-5a04-42f1-9df7-a5d3fd3672c3
> 
> Second questions also about fittings. I was on barreport and came across this : http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings
> 
> Instead of using an adapter would this swagelok plug work the same with the hoke gyrolok? (Does plug parts mean there is no hole on the top and its meant to stop air flow or is it just a term for a nut?):
> http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...0-P&item=0c0b2cd7-9ccc-4de3-9dd6-3c70e2fdde61
> 
> Lol please bear with me for this last question is 1/8" gyrolok equivalent to 1/8" swagelok tube fitting?


The first adapter will work, though I recommend the SS one because it is so thin it's best to have the stronger metal in this case. Just replace the 'B' with 'SS' and the part numbers should otherwise be the same.

If it says it's a plug then it should block flow completely so I'm guessing it's closed on the end.

Gryrolok and swagelok tube fittings are not exactly the same, but the Hoke literature does promise that Swagelok tube fittings are compatible.


----------



## clopez1

This is the part I got for mine.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331175539133?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Seems cheaper from swagelok but with free shipping it may come out better off ebay.


----------



## bbjai

Sadly I'm from Canada and international shipping is 31 dollars for the adapter on eBay. Lol no lies, its also the same link flowerfish linked me. I was stunned to see a 8 dollar item with 31 dollar shipping lol. So swagelokkk here I come!

Another question is with the adapter will I be able to plug a bubble counter straight onto the 1/8 npt?


----------



## clopez1

That is sad


----------



## FlyingHellFish

No need to ship, we have Swagelok near us. Those adapters will work. The Hoke's gyrolok works with Swagelok's tube fitting. 

I thought you were going with an inline bubble counter? You can just get a tube to 1/8 adapter, kind of costly tho.

One of the things I hate about these tube fittings is the ferrules, you got to change them once in a while.


----------



## bbjai

i was going line in but the hoke tube hole is so small dont i still need to change it to a 6mm hole so i can run a tube through?


----------



## mathman

bbjai said:


> i was going line in but the hoke tube hole is so small dont i still need to change it to a 6mm hole so i can run a tube through?


Here you go buddy...

There are several ways to connect the co2 tubing to the Hoke metering valve. BTW, I assume you want to use an inline bubble counter. I also took several pictures to make it easier to understand. I hope. 

Option 1: you can use 1/8" OD tubing and buy either a male or female NPT push to connect to attach the other end.



















In this picture you see a 1/8" MNPT to 1/8" OD push to connect. Also, you can see how the tubing is attached using the ferrule that comes with the HOKE metering valve.










Option #2:

You can attach the 1/8" OD tubing like shown on previous pictures to the valve and use an inline plastic adapter that's 1/8"-1/4" to attach the more standard size 1/4" OD tubing.



















This option will prevent the use of a 1/8" push connect. You can now use a 1/4" push connect instead.

Option #3:

You can use a fitting as suggested ealier










However, this could be a very fragile part unless you go with stainless steel.

And...

Option #4.

Cristian


----------



## bbjai

Whats cristian?


----------



## mathman

bbjai said:


> Whats cristian?


Lol...


----------



## mathman

Option 3 will allow you to attach a bubble counter like this one:










However, keep in mind that the built in check valve of some bubble counters can fail over time. So it is suggested that you use another check valve before the bubble counter. But I'm not so sure if there's a 1/8" FNPT to MNPT check valve.


----------



## bbjai

can i use a check valve after the bubble counter along the tubing to the diffuser?


----------



## mathman

bbjai said:


> can i use a check valve after the bubble counter along the tubing to the diffuser?


I would use a check valve before and after.

Keep in mind that the bubble counter holds liquid so if there's no check valve before and if the built in check valve fails then that liquid can potentially go into your solenoid and possibly your regulator.

The check valve after the bubble counter will keep water from the tank going into your bubble counter.


----------



## bbjai

Hey mathman,

I have to search for everything at swagelok because its just probably cheaper with them locally than the international shipping from ebay. I am looking at option 1 or option 3. Just to check if i selected it right. This SS-6M0-7-2 and this SS-6M5-4M will it fit the co2 tubing we use? Its 6mm tubing right.? If anyone can help me confirm standard co2 tubing diameter that would help me pick out fittings please advise as well!

with lots of love,
bbjai


----------



## oldpunk78

Well... 3rd time is the charm. Right? Just ordered the same solenoid again. Apparently, I want something that's hard to get at the moment. I'll be really surprised if I see anyone with the same solenoid any time soon. Lol


----------



## mathman

oldpunk78 said:


> Well... 3rd time is the charm. Right? Just ordered the same solenoid again. Apparently, I want something that's hard to get at the moment. I'll be really surprised if I see anyone with the same solenoid any time soon. Lol


Mind telling us what solenoid you speak of?


----------



## oldpunk78

Sure. It's a VDW21-6G-1-01N.


----------



## mathman

oldpunk78 said:


> Sure. It's a VDW21-6G-1-01N.


This?










Are you using this on the Parker regulator? Would look really nice since it's a two tone solenoid like the regulator.


----------



## bbjai

oldpunk78 said:


> Sure. It's a VDW21-6G-1-01N.


I'm trying to order that one but it seems to be discontinued I really might have to settle for VDW21-6F-1-01N

Are faston terminals harder to hook up to a dc adapter?


----------



## oldpunk78

Yup. That's it. They are discontinued. Everywhere I was ordering from is apparently drop shipping from smc directly. Sites kept showing stock but i guess that's not always the case.

The f version has a molded coil cover. I suppose it would actually make it easier. I just wanted a specific look that the f option didn't offer.

Oh and Mathman, yes. It's going on the ir6200. The reg, metering valve, and the solenoid will all be 2 toned. (assuming I can actually get the solenoid). All fittings will be brass. Should look pretty good.


----------



## bbjai

Yea i wanted to G as well but they are only selling the F i guess i might have to settle for F


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Guys, check out Clippard's new solenoid. It looks like the SMC but a bit thinner and uses a manifold.

Clippard DV solenoids









=======


----------



## bbjai

Flying give me a shout if you are ordering maybe we can save on shipping. the distributor is in Mississauga and i cant drive highways >_>


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Guys, check out Clippard's new solenoid. It looks like the SMC but a bit thinner and uses a manifold.
> 
> Clippard DV solenoids
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =======


Dis you catch the part where they're only available in 10-32 threads or m5 on the manifold? Really a nice looking valve though. I might have to figure out m5 adapter.

Edit - oldpunk did not use his brain there. I think the maybe is the just the solenoid that only available in those sizes. I can't come up with the manifold right now. I guess some searching is in order cause that manifold looks a lot like 1/8.

My bad.

Edit 2 - boy... i cant read or observe this evening (must have been the fried chicken) that manifold right above my type is CLEARLY marked as 1/8npt hahahha


----------



## bbjai

http://www.wainbee.com/suppliers/clippard/electronic_valves/Clippard_DV_Series_Electronic_Valves.pdf

Heres the catalog of the clippard dv if you wanna take a look oldpunk. I dont understand it lol so maybe you can clear up somethings from seeing it 

the manifold looks like it has a lot of holes which i dont understand.


----------



## oldpunk78

bbjai said:


> http://www.wainbee.com/suppliers/clippard/electronic_valves/Clippard_DV_Series_Electronic_Valves.pdf
> 
> Heres the catalog of the clippard dv if you wanna take a look oldpunk. I dont understand it lol so maybe you can clear up somethings from seeing it
> 
> the manifold looks like it has a lot of holes which i dont understand.


Thanks. I needed that. Lol

The extra holes are mounting holes. Looks like clippard got this one right. Anyone found a price yet.

Awesome find flyinghellfish.


----------



## AaronT

Looks like they'll be about $45 total with the manifold. Not bad at all and 1.9 watts too. 
http://www.clippard.com/part/DV-2M-12
http://www.clippard.com/part/15492-1


----------



## bbjai

aw man if thats usa pricing means canada is going to be at least $65+


----------



## mathman

Not bad. Nonetheless, I really dislike the way the power cable is attached to the solenoid. Over time the wire can bend and break (if one is careless). 

Not saying the Burkert is the best but its din connection is my favorite.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

@bbjai

Not yet, but if you're going to buy it, we can save on shipping because I got someone buying a CGA set from the Mississauga location. There a whole row of those types of stores there, Parker items too. I can ask if he willing to buy for you too. 

I'm expecting a 60+ dollar range with the manifold, don't brother with ebay, this just came out. 

I talk to clippard, guy said it will work with our hobby, he also suggested the mouse as a cheaper solution. I'm tempted to get this new solenoid solely on its looks.


----------



## bbjai

give me a shout i am definitely interested flying


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Ops I forgot to mention, I haven't ask the guy yet but if he wants the money up front, its a deal breaker for me and you. That a big no no no. Trust me, I rather pay clippard to ship or parker to ship.

*Aaron, I know, no sales talk. I'm trying here good sir.


----------



## bbjai

lol its not a sale its a groupbuy hahaha


----------



## bbjai

I called wainbee but they don't have it in stock so they are going to get a quote for me. I don't know which one to buy I told them to check dt-2m-12 and dv-2m-12 and 15490-5 tell me if those are the ones you are looking for too flying


----------



## AaronT

bbjai said:


> I called wainbee but they don't have it in stock so they are going to get a quote for me. I don't know which one to buy I told them to check dt-2m-12 and dv-2m-12 and 15490-5 tell me if those are the ones you are looking for too flying


The manifold with 1/8" npt on both ends is 15492-1.


----------



## bbjai

so aaron am i suppose to get the cartridge style solenoid then?


----------



## AaronT

bbjai said:


> so aaron am i suppose to get the cartridge style solenoid then?


I think so. You might want to call Clippard directly and ask.


----------



## bbjai

I just asked. the cartridge 1/8npt is not through and through so we have to drill it ourselves. 

but the manifold one is all set and ready for hook up and 2way. I think ill be going with 
dt-2m-12 + 15490-5 it adds up to $40 US sooo i think itll be about 65-70 canada not including shipping.


----------



## oldpunk78

bbjai said:


> I just asked. the cartridge 1/8npt is not through and through so we have to drill it ourselves.
> 
> but the manifold one is all set and ready for hook up and 2way. I think ill be going with
> dt-2m-12 + 15490-5 it adds up to $40 US sooo i think itll be about 65-70 canada not including shipping.


Ordering from clippard kinda sucks. In the US, it's 10 bucks for ups ground + 10 bucks for handling. So add the handling into international shipping. (If you're not going through a local distributor)


----------



## _wastedtime

I have a clippard distributor nearby that I can order through. That saves on shipping. But I havent seen these solenoids on their website yet.


----------



## bbjai

Quick question how much Teflon tape should I use to connect the CGA 320 to the regulator? Is just once enough? Also how tight should I screw it? I basically screwd it till I can't turn no more is that bad?


----------



## oldpunk78

bbjai said:


> Quick question how much Teflon tape should I use to connect the CGA 320 to the regulator? Is just once enough? Also how tight should I screw it? I basically screwd it till I can't turn no more is that bad?


Here's how I do it:

Fold about 5" tape in half.

Go around the end of the threads about 3-4 times. So really like 6-8 turns unfolded. You really only need like 4 for brass. It is important to do it in the right direction. I've noticed that I tend to stretch it a bit so you might need less.

Work the tape into the threads. I do it by screwing it into my shirt (my work shirts are thrashed..) A rag would be better. This part isn't really necessary. It does produce a better result though. Make sure there's no tape on the end that will get cut off when you screw it down and can make its way into the system. (That part is more crucial for the post body parts. Most regulators have a filter that will catch it before it enters the reg)

Tighten it as tight as you can get it without mangling anything.

Don't forget the nut goes on the nipple first. (Yes, I've forgotten before lol)


----------



## bbjai

hope my amateurish tefloning is okay XD

second picture the outlet doesnt have a filter right? its suppose to be just one big hole. Sorry i've never seen a regulator before >_>


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Nicely done! That's teflon wrapping is very clean, I like it.

Kudos bbjai! You're making great progress with this whole "custom Co2" side hobby.

Oh and if the DV valve is too expensive, which I'm almost certain it is, you can opt for a clippard mouse. The EV series are low watts and *FINALLY* comes with a 1/8 npt option.

I'm proud of you, my young Padawan.


----------



## AaronT

bbjai said:


> hope my amateurish tefloning is okay XD
> 
> second picture the outlet doesnt have a filter right? its suppose to be just one big hole. Sorry i've never seen a regulator before >_>


Looks pretty good to me.


----------



## AaronT

Since the 15490-5 is 1/8" through and 2 way you can just use a mouse solenoid instead, which is a better value and even more suited to our use, unless you like the silver look of the new valves. 

It's about darn time Clippard released that manifold.


----------



## Bettatail

flyinghellfish, you steal my announcement, lol.

The clippard DV solenoid is totally new to me, stainless steel?

got them this afternoon, the order took about a month, they were not in stock.


----------



## Bettatail

one more Paker, actually another H2 block type model to the collection.
the H1A and one of the H2A are block type, now you guys know what a block type Parker HR metering valves looks like, don't miss it if you see one.


----------



## neilshieh

It's about time... I'd like to think its because of all my complaining to the engineers haha


----------



## Bettatail

neilshieh said:


> It's about time... I'd like to think its because of all my complaining to the engineers haha


I saw the 15490-5 when I was about to put in order for the 15490-2(remember the courtesy custom work manifold give away, anyone?), didn't pay much attention, but right before I place final order, I remembered that you told me a while ago you contact clippard for the 1/8 npt inlet/outlet version, so I looked at the 15490-5 the second time, then I added them to my order.

apparently they took your suggestion! 
sorry didn't let you know, I have to check them up personally, before I pass the info around.

anyway, you are the man, neil, and this Friday I will definitely have time to go to your place, you don't mind some gifts, do you?


----------



## bbjai

http://www.clippard.com/part/ET-2M-12

I'm guessing this 2way would work with the manifold as wwell. For our application the one bettatail has is not required right because its 3 way.


----------



## mathman

I'm out of the loop here...

I am assuming all the fuzz is due to the manifold having 1/8" ports?


----------



## _wastedtime

bbjai said:


> http://www.clippard.com/part/ET-2M-12
> 
> I'm guessing this 2way would work with the manifold as wwell. For our application the one bettatail has is not required right because its 3 way.


Yes I am wondering about the same thing, the pictures show the ETO-3 12V solenoid.. thee are tons of those on ebay. I am wondering if we should use the ET-2M-12 or will the ETO-3 work. ?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ You guys can use any of the EV series and have it work with the manifold, Bettatail just has a different mouse, you don't need to get the one he has.

Get a 2/normally closed with spade connectors or the adapter. The normal wires are very thin and you don't want that to snap. 

This is very good news for the Co2 scene, no more DIN connectors, no more 70 dollar solenoid that heat. 


 I still want that sexy DV valve thou.... argh its so beautiful.

Clippard DV solenoid and Manifold, FIRST ON APC!


----------



## bbjai

looking at bettatail's models do you have to plug up the third port?


----------



## AaronT

bbjai said:


> looking at bettatail's models do you have to plug up the third port?


Yes, if you use one like that you do need to plug the top.


----------



## Bettatail

bbjai said:


> looking at bettatail's models do you have to plug up the third port?


to plug or not to plug, your choice, either way there is pro and con.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

bbjai said:


> looking at bettatail's models do you have to plug up the third port?


You can get one without that at the top, we don't need that. That 3 ports instead of 2, some solenoid have exhaust ports (some needle valves too) and it just release whatever is left in the line. Its for people who disconnect, add on, etc, without having to depressurized the line.

When your solenoid is turn off, you will have decreasing bubbles as there still Co2 left in the line, this is just a faster way to release that gas.

=======================================

*Knowledge and research for everyone! *

I found some old notes back when I was starting up the Co2 hobby. Here some things I'm currently researching and trying to adapt it to our use.

I believe we should all share our research, maybe some of the great minds here can work out a solution.

*"Latching" solenoids - "Pulse" solenoids.* (Obsolete thanks to the Clippard Mouse)

The solenoids use a stronger magnet and require one "pulse" of current to open or close. It basically opens or close base on what voltage we send to it. What this means is, lower power and lower heat.










*Proportional Solenoid valve.* (Obsolete, thanks to clippard)

They make solenoids that can control flow by regulating the voltage with a Pulse Module controller. Cost wise, it's not worth it as you need a bulky controller hooked up.


































*Mass Flow Controller *(_Solenoid and Metering valve in one_)

And for the people with deep pockets, these bad boys will display the flow and you can hook it up to your pc. The flow rates are usually high and presented in volume (sccm) as compare to concentration (ppm). I believe the value we're looking at is 50ml/min or along those lines.










===============================

And good lord! No, I don't work in the industry. I do the same thing everyone else does, google.

Note: All those *small solenoids would work for us, as turning them on is fine because we're controlling Co2 with a metering valve. It's just not worth the cost because you're paying for features you won't use.

All those DIN guide, all those questions on heat and power, gone, thanks to the EV line. Its a great time to build a Co2 system!

Here a "clippard-look a like" mouse, you might get for cheap.

Video Jet

























And if what they say is true, we all owe Neil a huge thank you for getting clippard to listen.


----------



## Bettatail

that videojet is not the clippard.
It is rebranded Numatics/Asco, really good price though, I leave it survive for so long because I don't need it even it is really cheap at $8, I have enough of the same solenoids.

the middle one.









----I am out of here, let's go, The flying fish from hell.


----------



## flowerfishs

People now only look at their equipment, not their tank. Lol


----------



## FlyingHellFish

flowerfishs said:


> People now only look at their equipment, not their tank. Lol


I agree! Not too many people have a good tank and a good looking Co2 system. Well, maybe Charlie1, he has a good tank and a good Matheson system.


----------



## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> I agree! Not too many people have a good tank and a good looking Co2 system. Well, maybe Charlie1, he has a good tank and a good Matheson system.


Hey FHF, thanks for the compliment but have to take my hat off to you, with the funky lights and all


----------



## _wastedtime

Is the swagelok SS-2MG4 any good ? There is someone on ebay selling them.


----------



## oldpunk78

_wastedtime said:


> Is the swagelok SS-2MG4 any good ? There is someone on ebay selling them.


They aren't that great in my opinion. They work but they're a medium flow valve.


----------



## AaronT

_wastedtime said:


> Is the swagelok SS-2MG4 any good ? There is someone on ebay selling them.


Here's an S series. See if you can talk him down. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swagelok-Fi...980?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258f15c2dc


----------



## flowerfishs

AaronT said:


> Here's an S series. See if you can talk him down.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swagelok-Fi...980?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258f15c2dc


That's also a M series.


----------



## AaronT

flowerfishs said:


> That's also a M series.


How can you tell? It's listed as a fine.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Bettatail said:


> ----I am out of here, let's go, The flying fish from hell.


I like it here, I think APC's community is awesome! It's a refreshing change from the strict rules found on tpt. Over here, you can talk to the mods like they are your fellow hobbyist.


----------



## oldpunk78

AaronT said:


> How can you tell? It's listed as a fine.


There are some subtle differences. Mainly the shape of the handle. The S series has a longer, narrower knob.


----------



## neilshieh

Took a picture of my M series valve and my S series valve side to side. figured it'd be good reference info for people in the future. The knob size is a definite giveaway. The M series handle is also way harder to turn.


----------



## oldpunk78

Check out what Orlando is doing. He posted this on ape yesterday:


----------



## AaronT

Nice. It looks like a GO regulator at first glance. I'm curious what the price point will be on that bad boy.


----------



## oldpunk78

You know... After trying to sell these things for a while now, I've noticed that there just isn't that big of a market for these shiny, over the top regulators. I think that gla will sell some but more and more people are learning to do it their selves. What I'm really trying to say is that we've already pretty much flooded the market with probably cheaper units with better equipment for the same or even a lower price point. 

Well... i do still get the occasional request for a "money is no object" build but they are a rarety. Anyway, I guess I'm just curious as to what the asking price will be for a chrome 2-stage with gla badging.


----------



## AaronT

oldpunk78 said:


> You know... After trying to sell these things for a while now, I've noticed that there just isn't that big of a market for these shiny, over the top regulators. I think that gla will sell some but more and more people are learning to do it their selves. What I'm really trying to say is that we've already pretty much flooded the market with probably cheaper units with better equipment for the same or even a lower price point.
> 
> Well... i do still get the occasional request for a "money is no object" build but they are a rarety. Anyway, I guess I'm just curious as to what the asking price will be for a chrome 2-stage with gla badging.


Yes, it's the same sort of folks that will buy a full Aquavas setup when they become available. If I had the money I can see the appeal, but most folks don't.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> You know... After trying to sell these things for a while now, I've noticed that there just isn't that big of a market for these shiny, over the top regulators. I think that gla will sell some but more and more people are learning to do it their selves. What I'm really trying to say is that we've already pretty much flooded the market with probably cheaper units with better equipment for the same or even a lower price point.
> 
> Well... i do still get the occasional request for a "money is no object" build but they are a rarety. Anyway, I guess I'm just curious as to what the asking price will be for a chrome 2-stage with gla badging.


You're right. The people who are interested in a custom build will do it themselves. Let me take off my Co2 custom builder hat and put on my honesty hat, these things are overkill for our needs.

The majority of us builder are doing it for the "hunt" and for the "custom" aspect. When I finish my first Co2 build, I didn't just drop the entire sub-hobby, I was checking ebay, reading and researching new parts.

Tell me you guys don't occasionally type in "Matheson regulator" or "Concoa regulator" just to see what the market is.

Anyways, I finish leak testing a 312 I'm setting up for a friend. The damn regulator is shinier than mine. More info in the build thread, peace.









=======


----------



## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> Check out what Orlando is doing. He posted this on ape yesterday:


If GLA sells the cheaper Smith at the current price, how much do you guys think this will be at? 

I want to say that an Air Gas but Air Gas rebrands evvvveryyythingg. Also, those Parker needle valve are in the same line as any other pneumatic flow control, huge difference between those and metering valves. ADA did the same with the SMC AS1200, works fine with lowish psi.

I had some success with a clone, the STC version of the AS1200, pretty hard to adjust but kept the same flow once dial in.

The only thing I didn't agree about is the solenoid, "the best compare to"....

Ops - Forgot to ask, is there a cheap way you can get back the shine of Chrome? I find Brasso is good at clean/polishing the chrome but not so much help with the shine.

Edit:2

Had some question on a work bench or bench vise and if you need one, you don't. This is my work bench and you just use electric tape or painter tape to prevent scratches.


----------



## oldpunk78

oldpunk78 said:


> Check out what Orlando is doing. He posted this on ape yesterday:


Has anyone else looked at this?










I got to thinking about it and was wondering if anyone has an opinion about it. To me it looks like gla is incorporating the needle valve into the solenoid body. This would certainly be a pretty compact design. The thing I got thinking about is that pretty much all of the parts they use are not gla products but built by a third party that supplies gla along with other vendors. Take the v3 regulator for example. Or the nv-55 or the parker solenoid or their new bubble counter. Gla uses those parts as their own but you can obtain them elsewhere. That leads me to wondering if the new solenoid/needle valve combo is in the same category? Cause that white knob looks identical to that of the nv-55. It is very possible that gla had fabco build this for them (fabco is very close in proximity to gla...) But i wonder if it's also available to the public.

Eh.


----------



## neilshieh

very cool. that regulator looks like the airproducts E12. not sure if it's a rebrand though.

Did you ever finish your two toned regulator build?
I have a couple series 4 brooks valves and I just got the adapter fittings I need for them. I plan on doing a two toned regulator too, never tried it. 








that's a 1/8nptx1/16npt adapter on the inlet and a 1/16nptx1/4 od push in fitting on the outlet.


----------



## oldpunk78

neilshieh said:


> very cool. that regulator looks like the airproducts E12. not sure if it's a rebrand though.
> 
> Did you ever finish your two toned regulator build?
> I have a couple series 4 brooks valves and I just got the adapter fittings I need for them. I plan on doing a two toned regulator too, never tried it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's a 1/8nptx1/16npt adapter on the inlet and a 1/16nptx1/4 od push in fitting on the outlet.


Orlando is pretty excited. I'm really curious as to the pricing. I'm not sure what the bodies are. My guess is that they might be imports. We'll see.

Nope. Not yet. Between a crazy life right now, 30 people coming over in a week and getting ready for a vacation I haven't had time for anything. I am typing this as my 11 month old sleeps in the back seat for a minute before heading into costco.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ aww that cute!

I think Orlando went to them and gave them his specification. Some companies (I know Clippard does) will tweak their products and give you a custom version of it, I guess since he has a company, he was able to buy in volume. 


Orlando did his homework, or maybe one of you guys are guiding him, either way, this is the best retail Co2 regulator that not custom.


----------



## bbjai

SWAG elok! lol parts are here and just installing  thank you all for all the help. Now just for the solenoid >.> Ahem


----------



## flowerfishs

nice build. just curious why you use 1/4" compression fitting instead of 1/4" quick connect?


----------



## bbjai

because i didnt know what that is lol. i just followed the directions on barreport thought it was the same thing.

for future reference would you have a swagelok part number? is this instrumention quick connect or full flow?


----------



## flowerfishs

You can add a quick connect after you install it on the compression fitting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190724871890?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


----------



## bbjai

What is the purpose of quick connect? For maintanence? Can't I just disconnect from my check valve?


----------



## flowerfishs

just push the tube in and push the round platic to pull it out. you can do it your own way if that's more convince for you. go with what you had already bought. Quick connect is just another option.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

bbjai said:


> What is the purpose of quick connect? For maintanence? Can't I just disconnect from my check valve?


The only thing I don't like about the quick disconnect is that you have to re-cut the tubing in a perfectly straight way. I mean, sure it "quick" to disconnect, but its take longer to "reconnect".

Another longer way, is swagelok's inferno compression, you have to replace those metal pieces after a while. The best in my opinion is the normal compression where you just compress the nut onto the fitting.


----------



## bbjai

I am using this SS-6M5-4M. are you talking about this fitting?


----------



## oldpunk78

I'm a little put off by this. I can appreciate the simplicity but I dunno.


----------



## bbjai

agreed it does look a little weird


----------



## mathman

Nice bubble viewers...they are about $40 a piece.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Quad Stage regulator..... (Had some fun before I gave away the 312)









=======








=======


----------



## AaronT

FlyingHellFish said:


>


Super stable!


----------



## bbjai

whoa tony how many rigs are you building lol.


----------



## AaronT

For anyone interested in doing work on a drill press I picked up a 4" drill press vice at Lowes today for $7.00. They are no longer carrying the Bessey brand and are liquidating their stock.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

AaronT said:


> Super stable!


Hahahah You guys would be surprise how many people thought I was serious about that.


----------



## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hahahah You guys would be surprise how many people thought I was serious about that.


Just heightens the fact about how many regurgitating experts they are , they read on a forum & take it as facts


----------



## _wastedtime

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hahahah You guys would be surprise how many people thought I was serious about that.


Ya i saw the thread, I was going to reply with LOL... but then i saw all the serious replies :rofl:


----------



## neilshieh

What are you guys all working on? I finally have time to start building my regulators and will update with pictures


----------



## bbjai

Ah crap i was fiddling with the clippard mouse and it fell apart now i dont know which part goes where -_- f__k me.


----------



## bbjai

Just want to find out what do people think about the fluval bubble counter? http://www.bigalspets.ca/bubble-counter-for-88g-co2-kit.html

I'm guessing theres no check valve for this


----------



## oldpunk78

I'm done trying to find the right solenoid. I'm just going to use this one. The brass/stainless vdw has been discontinued and is a pain to find at the moment. Can't decide which way to go with the check valve.


----------



## neilshieh

clippard mouse solenoids are easy to put back together. There should be 4 parts. the bottom piece, a middle spider ring, a ring, and the top piece. They go in that order I think. not sure if you haven't found a pdf online i can take apart one of my clippards and check.

Josh your build looks really sexy! I like the color matching and the plastic vdw solenoid doesn't look out of place at all. I like it!


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Josh, I like the way you're hiding the solenoid in the pictures.  

You know what would really look good on that? The brass VDW solenoid with gold/silver, that would be sexy ....

Ask that Alan Le guy, he is the only one I seen with that solenoid. 

How hot does that VDW w/ plastic over get?


----------



## bbjai

Does anyone know which why the manifold from clippard connects? I dont know which 1/8 npt is inflow and which is outflow lol

Edit: nvrmind figured it out!


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Josh, I like the way you're hiding the solenoid in the pictures.
> 
> You know what would really look good on that? The brass VDW solenoid with gold/silver, that would be sexy ....
> 
> Ask that Alan Le guy, he is the only one I seen with that solenoid.
> 
> How hot does that VDW w/ plastic over get?


The brass/stainless ones aren't being made anymore and Allen and I aren't exactly on speaking terms.

I haven't wired it yet... the body is aluminum now. It's probably cooler than the brass or stainless version. We'll see.


----------



## AaronT

I like it Josh. Now you just need to scrounge a gold anodized aluminum knob.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

The first picture looks good, the second picture looks distorted because of the check valve, like a big pimple on an otherwise beautiful face.

What the retail value of those IR6000 SS,? Over 900?


----------



## bbjai

all done i hope. now i need to grab a co2 tank bubble counter and check valve


----------



## flowerfishs

bbjai said:


> all done i hope. now i need to grab a co2 tank bubble counter and check valve


I guess you get that 1/8 npt from bettatail.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

bbjai said:


> all done i hope. now i need to grab a co2 tank bubble counter and check valve


Bryan! That a fine looking regulator rig! Its even more impressive considering this is your first build, nicely done good sir!

How are you liking it? Have you seen pearling with your plants yet?

Oh and what 1/8 NPT are you guys referring to?


----------



## flowerfishs

FlyingHellFish said:


> Bryan! That a fine looking regulator rig! Its even more impressive considering this is your first build, nicely done good sir!
> 
> How are you liking it? Have you seen pearling with your plants yet?
> 
> Oh and what 1/8 NPT are you guys referring to?


I mean the 1/8 npt inlet & outlet manifold.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> The first picture looks good, the second picture looks distorted because of the check valve, like a big pimple on an otherwise beautiful face.
> 
> What the retail value of those IR6000 SS,? Over 900?


They are expensive. It depends where you buy it i guess. Airgas wants about $1000.

To answer your question about the solenoid, it gets hot. Not so hot that i can't hold on to it for an extended period of time. Probably about the same as its older model. Not nearly as bad as a 6011 though.


----------



## bbjai

flowerfishs said:


> I guess you get that 1/8 npt from bettatail.


I got everything in Canada except hoke and the messer. we have a swagelok distributor that doesnt charge shipping if you pick up and a clippard distributor with pretty fast shipping if they have the parts.

@flyinghellfish lol no co2 tank yet I have to leak test this though. I called norwood but they are out of tanks and if I buy from camcarb I rather buy from aqua inspiration. Camcarb is 130 plus gas and tax is more expensive then AI tank. Nor wood for 85 bucks plus gas and tax is cheapest out of all of them.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> They are expensive. It depends where you buy it i guess. Airgas wants about $1000.
> 
> To answer your question about the solenoid, it gets hot. Not so hot that i can't hold on to it for an extended period of time. Probably about the same as its older model. Not nearly as bad as a 6011 though.


I found the IR6000 hovering around 1k and up, and even the single stage is pricey. Actually you know what? Anything Parker is pricey, I just suddenly realized how expensive they are.

SMC -

Josh, if you could get a hold of a VDW's top, you can still get that silver and gold look.

The slider at the top can be remove to replace the coil. Maybe SMC has some spare VDW tops, it should work the same unless they over haul the entire VDW line.

*Edit - You know what? For safety reasons I wouldn't do that, or at least ask SMC first.

Here is a VDW brass for 2000 Yen from Japan. Which is around 20 US dollars.

http://jp.rs-online.com/web/p/solenoid-valves/0163031/

Model Number:VDW21-5G-2-01F-Q


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> I found the IR6000 hovering around 1k and up, and even the single stage is pricey. Actually you know what? Anything Parker is pricey, I just suddenly realized how expensive they are.
> 
> SMC -
> 
> Josh, if you could get a hold of a VDW's top, you can still get that silver and gold look.
> 
> The slider at the top can be remove to replace the coil. Maybe SMC has some spare VDW tops, it should work the same unless they over haul the entire VDW line.
> 
> *Edit - You know what? For safety reasons I wouldn't do that, or at least ask SMC first.
> 
> Here is a VDW brass for 2000 Yen from Japan. Which is around 20 US dollars.
> 
> http://jp.rs-online.com/web/p/solenoid-valves/0163031/
> 
> Model Number:VDW21-5G-2-01F-Q


The new ones have a different design. Believe me, I've considered pretty much everything. There are a couple on ebay but they're in lots with others and I don't want to mess around with that.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Disregard that link, it's not in stock. 

Does anyone know how the seal is made with the CGA 320? Is the Nut just compressing the stem to form the seal on the cylinder? I'm thinking of using a nut from a retail kit. The a very small gap between the nut and the stem, leak test went perfect, just not too sure if it will mess up the stem or something.

Also, for the lucky ones who had the Swagelok regulator, did any of you guys take off the cap? Is there a opening to pry it open? The Matheson 3120, 3810 series have a cap you just off. How do you open the Swagelok regulators?


----------



## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> Disregard that link, it's not in stock.
> 
> Does anyone know how the seal is made with the CGA 320? Is the Nut just compressing the stem to form the seal on the cylinder? I'm thinking of using a nut from a retail kit. The a very small gap between the nut and the stem, leak test went perfect, just not too sure if it will mess up the stem or something.
> 
> Also, for the lucky ones who had the Swagelok regulator, did any of you guys take off the cap? Is there a opening to pry it open? The Matheson 3120, 3810 series have a cap you just off. How do you open the Swagelok regulators?


Seal is made by the compression of the gasket between the stem & the bottle valve face.
If I understand your question correctly.


----------



## oldpunk78

The knob comes off like your matheson.


----------



## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> I found the IR6000 hovering around 1k and up, and even the single stage is pricey. Actually you know what? Anything Parker is pricey, I just suddenly realized how expensive they are.
> 
> SMC -
> 
> Josh, if you could get a hold of a VDW's top, you can still get that silver and gold look.
> 
> The slider at the top can be remove to replace the coil. Maybe SMC has some spare VDW tops, it should work the same unless they over haul the entire VDW line.
> 
> *Edit - You know what? For safety reasons I wouldn't do that, or at least ask SMC first.
> 
> Here is a VDW brass for 2000 Yen from Japan. Which is around 20 US dollars.
> 
> http://jp.rs-online.com/web/p/solenoid-valves/0163031/
> 
> Model Number:VDW21-5G-2-01F-Q


Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/SMC-VDW21-5G-...ie=UTF8&qid=1403128791&sr=8-1&keywords=vdw+21


----------



## oldpunk78

Charlie 1 said:


> Would this work?
> http://www.amazon.com/SMC-VDW21-5G-...ie=UTF8&qid=1403128791&sr=8-1&keywords=vdw+21


That guy doesn't have the brass one in stock either.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

It sucks to know I can't replace the coil because they stop production on this. 

You can try calling up SMC and asking them for a VDW21, they are very nice to deal with. Ask them about a replacement, say you will buy it and give them one of my VDW serials.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> It sucks to know I can't replace the coil because they stop production on this.
> 
> You can try calling up SMC and asking them for a VDW21, they are very nice to deal with. Ask them about a replacement, say you will buy it and give them one of my VDW serials.


They still make the vdw series. It's just a new design. Anyway, why bother replacing the coil when a whole new solenoid is only like 24 bucks? There are still some old ones floating around. I'm sure they'll pop up from time to time.


----------



## bbjai

In Canada solenoids are quite pricey a new mouse solenoid is like 54 dollars plus the manifold that's is 10.

DMC vdw is 40 to 50 dollars as well in canada


----------



## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> They still make the vdw series. It's just a new design. Anyway, why bother replacing the coil when a whole new solenoid is only like 24 bucks? There are still some old ones floating around. I'm sure they'll pop up from time to time.


Wait a min, Josh what did you do with yours? You got them like I did. Did you sell them off? I'll gladly pick up a VDW ss if you got one?


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Wait a min, Josh what did you do with yours? You got them like I did. Did you sell them off? I'll gladly pick up a VDW ss if you got one?


I only got one and it got put on a regulator and sold a while back.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Oh alright, well Josh, if I manage to find a brass one I'll let you know. I'm trying to get an SS but no one has it. Argh... 

Yo Bryan, did you pick up a cylinder tank yet? I have to grab one too, maybe they're give us a deal. I'm going for a 5lb silver aluminum, you wanna go half-ise with me?


----------



## Charlie 1

Is this a rebranded Matheson - Scott 51215C540 ?
Thanks in advance


----------



## bbjai

Tony where are you grabbing one?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Most likely at Lucky's Aquarium, I need another bag of ADA Aquasoil. And hopeful they have those Yamhama rocks.

You thinking 5lb?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Charlie 1 said:


> Is this a rebranded Matheson - Scott 51215C540 ?
> Thanks in advance


Yes, the Scott speciality gas 512's share the same body, I have seen different gauges on them though. The Matheson adjustment knob is 40+ as a replacement option. If it's 150, SS and new (box, paper) its a great deal.

There is a Matheson 3121, no box but brand spanking new for 165 ship to Toronto. Nice guy to deal with, I went with something else though.


----------



## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> Yes, the Scott speciality gas 512's share the same body, I have seen different gauges on them though. The Matheson adjustment knob is 40+ as a replacement option. If it's 150, SS and new (box, paper) its a great deal.
> 
> There is a Matheson 3121, no box but brand spanking new for 165 ship to Toronto. Nice guy to deal with, I went with something else though.


I picked up one ( The scott) for 40.00, missing HP gauge


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Now that is a good deal! What you going to use for the post body? Maybe we can buy the VDW from Bettatail , I'm not sure if I want the DV clippard or not, most likely will pick that up if I can't find any VDW.

You got any leads on a Parker HR?


----------



## bbjai

I was thinking 10lb lol then don't have to pump gas for a long time for a ten gallon tank. I don't know of my ac20 is good enough for my tank 16x12x12


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Oh man, that going to last you a very long time.  But yeah I know what you mean, it only 15 - 25 dollar difference between the two.


----------



## oldpunk78

I finally got a chance to put it together during a nap today.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ She a beauty Josh, does the IR 6000 cap come off too? 

Hey, does anyone sell on ebay? There is a 25 dollar bonus for your first listing (free listing) and I'm thinking of getting rid of those - Ball valve, Manual on off, diagram valve, whatever they're called.

I'm seeing them list for 10 - 25 bucks, what are you guys doing with your Ball valves?


----------



## AaronT

oldpunk78 said:


> I finally got a chance to put it together during a nap today.


Wow, you did that in your sleep?  Seriously though, nice looking build man.


----------



## AaronT

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ She a beauty Josh, does the IR 6000 cap come off too?
> 
> Hey, does anyone sell on ebay? There is a 25 dollar bonus for your first listing (free listing) and I'm thinking of getting rid of those - Ball valve, Manual on off, diagram valve, whatever they're called.
> 
> I'm seeing them list for 10 - 25 bucks, what are you guys doing with your Ball valves?


I've sold the CGAs I don't need on ebay. It took a few weeks for them to sell, but I made a few bucks back.


----------



## Charlie 1

FlyingHellFish said:


> Now that is a good deal! What you going to use for the post body? Maybe we can buy the VDW from Bettatail , I'm not sure if I want the DV clippard or not, most likely will pick that up if I can't find any VDW.
> 
> You got any leads on a Parker HR?


I already have a Parker HR & Burkert 6011, probably Swagelok SS fittings.
No leads on the HR.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ She a beauty Josh, does the IR 6000 cap come off too?
> 
> Hey, does anyone sell on ebay? There is a 25 dollar bonus for your first listing (free listing) and I'm thinking of getting rid of those - Ball valve, Manual on off, diagram valve, whatever they're called.
> 
> I'm seeing them list for 10 - 25 bucks, what are you guys doing with your Ball valves?


Yes. It comes off too.

Aaron, the baby was sleeping until I dropped a wrench. Nap time was over at that point and I had to quickly put everything away and tend to his needs asap. Lol


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Aww that so cute, hahah It be funny if you had stuff regulator toys instead of teddy bears for him to play with.

Yo check this out fellas, imgur front page feed had some pictures of how it like working in NASA. We're using the same stuff NASA is using in their labs. Over-kill? Yeah. I'm sure we can all agree our Co2 system is a bit overkill. Worth it? Hell yes.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

The guy wasn't kidding when he claim he used a mountain of bubble wrap. There a even bigger box that contain the Matheson box, with even more bubble wrap.

Best. Shipment. Ever!


----------



## bbjai

Why are you buying so many regulators tony?


----------



## oldpunk78

bbjai said:


> Why are you buying so many regulators tony?


I think it's because he wants to supply Canada with high quality co2 equipment. Either that or he just can't stop. Lol


----------



## Charlie 1

oldpunk78 said:


> I think it's because he wants to supply Canada with high quality co2 equipment. Either that or he just can't stop. Lol


He has evolved into a junkie


----------



## oldpunk78

Has anyone seen the manifold for this?

181407307400


----------



## mathman

What's up buddies...

A couple questions:

When I purchased my HPT500 long time ago, it came with small gauges. I really dislike the small gauges and feel that the like larger gauges are a better fit.

The larger gauges have 1/4" npt SS connections. Will there be any issue considering that the regulator is not?

Also, if you notice the larger gauges also don't have any negative reading.

I'm basically asking if swapping the gauges for the larger ones is an okay thing to do.

Thanks:


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hahah yo Bryan, you realize this is your fault right? I was happily out of the Co2 hobby and then BAM! A certain someone pm me wanting to know more about regulators.

You were by far, the easiest person to deal with. You actually went out and did your own research and source your own parts.

I had to get this 3810 SS regulator, its my favourite and it really was "new on shelf". I even got the extra washer on the CGA stem with both inlet and outlet's protective cap. And besides, it's Stainless steel one that retails for 1g.

It's rare seeing a good condition Matheson brass that isn't insanely overprice. Some of those idiots have regulators listed higher than retail.

@Mathman - It should be fine, I mean, you're not going to be doing any crazy CSI test.

============

Argh matty!


----------



## bbjai

Tony you got reinfected with the co2 fever from me Rofl. Too bad there's no cure but wallet leakage lol.

so there were other disciples before me? Did they make you build their unit as well? Man if i knew that earlier hahah i would of asked you to build it  

Do you know where to get the permaseals i think the plastic ring that came with my cga set probably wont last long. When i get back from vacation I have to leak test this bad boy. Wish me luck


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Naw, don't get the permaseals, all you need are those nylon washers they give away for free sometimes. I'm picking up a SS parker CGA 320 for the Matheson and I'm grabbing some extra washers for a friend, I'll get you some too.

You're actually the reason why he got a regulator. He got the black Concoa 312 and I kept the red 212 praxair. They were suppose to be for you lol. 

=========

For the people who had both brass and ss Mathesons, 

Besides the engraving on the regulator, how do you tell if it's nickel brass or stainless steel?


----------



## bbjai

How much was the red praxair tony? If only I knew it looks so much more smexy


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I gave (sold) the 312 black at cost to a friend of mine. He is working on his regulator build too. The 312 is actually newer than mine, kind of sucks when the cheaper regulator is newer than the one you own. It was about 45 Canadian with shipping.










Since the Hoke never made it, we're both looking for a metering valve.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hey, how come this forum doesn't like you modify your own post after a while?


----------



## mathman

Purchased an SGT500 from eBay and the previous owner used threadlock on the cga 580. I was able to remove it but some of the regulator's threads were damaged.

I cleaned it as best as I could and this is how it turned out:










Here's what I have done. I cleaned the regulator's inlet port where the cga nipple is attached.

I marked a 1/4" MNPT nipple'a thread the following way to see how far it goes in the regulators port.










I did it to the opposite side as well:










This is how far the nipple is able to go in without any problems using just hands.










And the other side:










It seems to go in between 3-4 threads.

Question:

Do you think it's good enough depth to be safe to use? Would you use it if this was your regulator?

Also,

What do you suggest I use Teflon or a thread lock?

I was thinking of using Teflon to attach a cga 320 nipple and upon the leak test, if it's all good I can remove it and use threadlock.

Also, how much torque should I apply when tightenkng? Too much and ill ruined the cga nipple thread.










Thanks!

I need suggestions from the experts!


----------



## FlyingHellFish

That one of the things people rarely talk about, the fact that regulators can come with a hard sealant. And when they do, there is always a chance you will ruin the threads by removing the CGA.

The same thing can be said for retail regulators, some can come with a harden sealant or even welded connection. Everyone seem to love the idea of adding a Fabco to their retail kit, no one ever talks about the risk.
=============

Anyways, Mathman, that a smart move by marking the nipple. With my regulators, I always aim for the third or fourth thread (depending on teflon), so I think if you can get it to the third thread, it should be good.

Here the 312' CGA,










Maybe you could use some paste and then use some sealant around the connection. What does everyone else think? Could you use a sealant around the CGA? It's not like you're going to change the CGA anyways, right?


----------



## flowerfishs

I would highly recommend you to use thread lock or you will end up with a leak due to high pressure inlet. one time job and you will never have to worry about it.


----------



## mathman

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I am currently thinking of using a Tap bit to clean the threads.

This was suggested by oldpunk. I just need to get the correct tap. Awaiting his answer unless any of you know which one will work.


----------



## AaronT

mathman said:


> Thanks for the suggestions guys. I am currently thinking of using a Tap bit to clean the threads.
> 
> This was suggested by oldpunk. I just need to get the correct tap. Awaiting his answer unless any of you know which one will work.


I would guess you would need a 1/4" MNPT bottoming tap. The regular 1/4" MNPT tap won't work because it's not a through hole.

My understanding is to not use thread locker and always use a teflon based sealer with SS npt connections.


----------



## oldpunk78

AaronT said:


> I would guess you would need a 1/4" MNPT bottoming tap. The regular 1/4" MNPT tap won't work because it's not a through hole.
> 
> My understanding is to not use thread locker and always use a teflon based sealer with SS npt connections.


That's the word that wouldn't come to me. Bottoming tap. That's the one you're looking for. If you can't find one, I'll try and hunt down a link. Home depot/Lowes probably won't have the right one. I think I got mine from ace.


----------



## mathman

Before:










After:










The threads do look much better than before. I really hope that this does the trick. I plan on using a decent amount of Teflon and torque as much as possible.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

It looks a lot better, nice work!


----------



## mathman

As I wait for the nut and nipple...here's a 1/4" nipple attached to the regulator and a reducing elbow. Both were hand-tight. As you can see, there's about 4 threads remaining on each side. A wrench will be use for further tightening.





































BTW,

Thank you all for the ideas and recommendations. I'm sure that things will work out when I attach the nipple using Teflon.

I'll keep you posted.


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## mathman

It's here!


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## mathman

Alright, here's an update:

I was able to hand-tight the nipple to the regulator half way (a normal amount)










I used yellow Teflon. I used about 7-8in of Teflon, folded it and cut it to a smaller width.










Using a cloth I pressed the Teflon so that it is firm to the nipple.

I then used a small amount of mineral oil (a suggestion by Josh) as I have done with previous builds.










I torqued the nipple using my 11/16 wrench










I have no vice bench; however, I torqued as much as I could and I think the depth should be more than enough to create a solid seal. Keep in mind that I used yellow Teflon and about 7-8in of it.










The next stage is the testing. Sadly, that'll have to wait until Saturday as I will be busy with work.

Once again, thank you all for your suggestions. I'm sure that we have created a tight seal and a 100% leak free connection.

~Cristian


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## FlyingHellFish

^ Did you test it out yet? That looks good, I try to get to three threads at the end. I notice the smaller pressure gauges are really in deep, the Matheson 3810's gauges had 1 and half threads left.


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## fraviz

Just curious... has anyone used this push in connections...???? 
ADA has some on their website???? any experience????


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## mathman

UPDATE:

The regulator is working flawlessly. 100% leak free.



















Cristian


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## oldpunk78

mathman said:


> UPDATE:
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> The regulator is working flawlessly. 100% leak free.
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Pretty much as good as gets.  What's next? lol


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## bbjai

oh why oh why is there no bubble counters at my aquarium store


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## wrenn420

Those regulators are too nice to hide in a stand.


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## aquarium kid

Waiting on my last few parts for my first build.

Air products brass dual stage, nearly new.


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## core212

Hi Cristian!

I have a few questions regarding this setup. I'm looking to accomplish the same thing with the same hoke valves and was hoping you could share what those couplers and elbows are that you used exactly. Where could I source these at a decent price? I don't want to order in quantity as I only need a few pieces. I am looking to opt for option #3 in your setup variant and ordered 2 
Swagelok SS-2-TA-1-2 , 1/8 tube adapt x 1/8 NPT. Am I right to assume that I could mount two bubble counters on this setup using the swagelok adapters?

Thanks!



mathman said:


> Here's my plan for two Hoke metering valves:
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## AaronT

aquarium kid said:


> Waiting on my last few parts for my first build.
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> Air products brass dual stage, nearly new.
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> View attachment 28202


Nice find. What other parts are you planning?


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## aquarium kid

Fabco NV-55 and Stainless kip solenoid. All parts are here and have been assembled but are currently apart to fix a leak


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## AaronT

aquarium kid said:


> Fabco NV-55 and Stainless kip solenoid. All parts are here and have been assembled but are currently apart to fix a leak


Sounds like a nice reliable setup.


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## aquarium kid

I've had a few problems with fluctuating bubble count but I think I've traced the problem back to a leak. Nothing a little loctite won't fix so it should be back up and running soon


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