# [Wet Thumb Forum]-My first CO2 tank



## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

I've kept fish for over 25 years and have had a lot of low light tanks (java ferns & moss, Anubias, Vallisneria, etc.) I've always wanted to do a high intensity light tank with CO2 but it seemed like such a hassle.

Well I finally decided to go for it since all the stuff you need is so available now and ordering plants over the internet gives you more choices.

I have a 20 extra hi that I set up with a Coralife compact hood. Added that Hagen CO2 contraption and used the recipe someone gave here (after the mix it came with did nothing for over 2 days). Within an hour it started to work. I love watching the little bubbles climb up the ladder.

I'm wondering how long it will take before I see results.

My plants are:

_Ammannia senegalensis
Cabomba carolina
Cabomba pulcherrima
Heteranthera zosterfolia
Anubias barteri var. nana
Microsorium pteropus var. windelov
Nymphaea zenkeri
Vallisneria spiralis
Eleocharis acicularis
Glossostigma elatinoides_

The substrate is flourite.

Any potential problems with any of these plants with this simple Hagen CO2 thingie?

How soon can I expect some results? I always read that with CO2 you can expect fairly rapid growth. Will that be the case?

For fish right now I have 3 Ottos and 2 pairs of Black Phantom tetras.

Thanks.


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## Paul Higashikawa (Mar 18, 2004)

20 extra high as in 20 gallon? I don't know about the extra high. I have a regular 20-gal and 20-gal long which has the same height as a regular 10-gal you would find at Wal-mart as well as the same length as a 29-gal. And Coralife? What is its wattage? It won't be considered high light tank unless you have at least 3WPG, or watt per gallon. This means your Coralife is probably at least 65W, or so I hope. If that's the case then you should add CO2 no matter what. Balance is a very important element in this hobby. With higher light also come the need to have higher CO2 input. The Hagen should be ok. As for result, try to observe for any signs of leaves pearling. That is a good way to tell if your plants are happy with what they got. If you have the budget I would opt for the pressurized system, which is more costly initially, but cheaper and less hassle on the long run. It also makes CO2 injection more stable; with DIY you tend you get fluctuations.


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

A twenty extrahigh has the same foot print as a ten gallon tank but is 24 inches tall (20x10x24). More dramatic then a 20 gallon tank. I'm quite fond of it.

The light is 96 watts 50/50. They said that when it wore out I should get a 6700k bulb.

The Hagen CO2 system is working well now. Quite a few bubbles are put out and they get smaller as they climb the ladder. All the plants are looking good so far except for the Ammania (that is supposed to be difficult anyway right?).

I'll see how I do with this and then look into pressurized CO2. I have yet to find a site that explains pressurized like CO2 for the technologically impaired dummy so I still find it intimidating. I need it all spelled out and with pictures and diagrams and labels.

I'm looking forward to everything filling in and eventually getting some more cool little fish.


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## Hawkeye (Aug 20, 2004)

welcome to our site Entireleaves!

You are about to inter a whole new world of aquatics. 
First the 50/50 bulb is not going to work well in a plant tank. Don't wait change it now. If you wait to see what happens you are going to be fighting algae. 

Next! Do you have any test kits? If you know your PH and KH you can determine your CO2 levels. with 96w of CF you are going to need a very heavily planted tank with a high level of CO2. 

Then you are going to need to get on a fert dosing schedule. NO3, PO4, K and trace. Some Fe some times too. All this varies with the plant load and growth rate.
Keep asking questions and we will be glad to help you out.

Hawk


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

Ugh. I imagine the new bulb is going to be expensive. (it is one of those 4 bulbs all on one unit deals). Is 6700K right? Or should I get something else?

I thought I shouldn't fertilize right at the beginning.

I'm a horticulturist by career but land plants involve much less science and hassle.

The Cabomba (both types) looks amazing by the way. I have never seen it look so nice in one of my tanks. Growing practically before my eyes.


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## Paul Higashikawa (Mar 18, 2004)

6700K bulb will do just fine. Generally, plants do well in the Kelvin range of 5000K-10,000K, with the latter being also for the marine tanks. 5000K and 6700K give you a kind of mid-day look; 6700K is yellowish. I also have GE9325 and they look pinkish at first but eventually appeared somewhat white. 10000K is very white and bright looking. 8800K I got from Hello Lights is Panasonic and is in my opinion brighter than the GE9325; it is actually more whitish; go figure.

As for fertilizing, it is about balance once again. You can do whatever you want; it's the amount that you dose that matters. At the beginning and especially when your plant density isn't too high, it is wise to dose in less amount; you don't want to encourage alga to take any opportunity creeping up.

Hope this helped


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

I bought a test kits. Now how do I determine my CO2 from them?

And what brands of fertilzer would you recommend? What do you all use specifically and how often?

And does anyone know why certain functions on this site don't seem to work. I am logged in but when I tryed to take part in a poll in another thread it said I must log in to take part but I could not get it to work.

Thanks.


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

Also is there a way to go back and edit if we screw something up? Or are we pretty much stuck once we hit post now?


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

OK I went ahead and ordered a 6700K bulb. It wasn't as expensive as I thought it would be (though still expensive. This is a costly hobby)

It should get here in a few days. I don't want any setbacks so thanks for the advice.

I think the Ammania is shot. I knew it was difficult but I thought I would give it a try. It practically disolved before my eyes! However everything else looks good. I'm going to rearrange some stuff in the tank.


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## imported_BSS (Apr 14, 2004)

Welcome, entireleaves!

You don't want any setbacks? Now what fun would that be? And what would you learn







?!? I guarantee somewhere along the way you'll get some setbacks. But that fact that you are using the forums tells me you will have far fewer that many, many others.

Let's see on the questions. 
- Editing posts: Hit the "folder with the eraser" symbol on a post you make.
- CO2 levels: Go to the forum home page and check out the "Chuck's CO2" link or the one by Roger. The chart shows levels above 30 ppm as a bad level. IMO, this is now being challenged with many aquarists now running regularly at least at 30 ppm.
- Fertilzers: This is one of the more complex aspects of the hobby. I'd recommend getting ferts from www.gregwatson.com. BUT, before you go ordering, figure out what you need. You'll most likely need KNO3, KH2PO2, and CSM+B (I'm getting the one with extra iron when (IF?) may current stock runs out). You'll also likely need K2SO4 (or another source of "K"). As to some others, it'll depend on your water conditions.
- Test kits: Pray tell...which ones did you purchase? You should have PH, KH, GH, PO4 and NO3. The last two are the ones most likely to be problematic.

Also, I'd suggest taking a quick read through www.rexgrigg.com for an FAQ on planted tanks. Also, Hawkeye has recently started a site to help planted tank enthusiasts, so you might want to browse his site also.

Good luck, and keep the questions coming!
Brian.


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

So how about my Hagen ladder?

Where should it be positioned? Right now I have it at the top of the tank. Should I move it down toward the bottom or does it not matter?


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## imported_BSS (Apr 14, 2004)

If the bubbles are all dissolving as they roll up the ladder (and I seem to recall reading it takes a bit of time for the ladder to develop a film to slow down the bubbles), then it makes no difference. If bubbles are coming out the top before dissolving, then the lower the ladder (esp if it could be placed near a filter intake), the better. But, only VERY slightly!

Personally, I would shoot for lower just because it would be easier to hide behind plants.


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## entireleaves (Mar 25, 2005)

My new bulb (6700 K) arrived today and I installed it. It is not as pretty as the 50/50 (more of a yellow light rather then blue light) but is still bright. 

Algae is just starting to form on the glass so I hope I was in time. My Ottos seem to be working over time. It will be interesting to see how this change affects the plants. The Cabomba pulcherimma is twice its original height in just one week.

The other day I moved everything around. Removed the Ammania because it was disolving (oh well I guess it IS as difficult a plant as they say), moved the Heteranthera because it was too close to the Cabomba and seperated the two species of Cabomba. Removed my Anubias nana from its pot and tied it to a piece of tall driftwood with the ferns and repositioned that as well. 

Overall I am very pleased. If I get a job in the states in the next few months maybe I will get another large tank and try pressurized CO2.


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