# Brand new to this forum. Question about the Walstad method



## batkidiii (Nov 12, 2014)

I have been researching the last couple of weeks on what to do with my new 55 gallon tank. I bought the tank, hood, stand for $25.00 at a rummage. It was used and the interior seal was flaking off, so I had to reseal it.
Now that it is ready to go, I interested in doing the Walstad method, but I am so confused with information overload. I really need direction. This is what I want my tank to do.
1. Community tank with Angelfish, rummey nose, corydoras, kuhli loaches.
2. Low light plant, since my fixture is fluorescent
3. Thinking of a sand cap, with Miracle Gro as the soil.

I am also thinking of using a power head, so I can have some water flow.
I have raised fish for 30 years, but I have to admit that I am really nervous about screwing this method up. Thank you all for your help. I really like looking through all the threads. Thank again.

Byron


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## Tugg (Jul 28, 2013)

If you go with miracle gro, then read the sticky thread on mineralizing it. At a minimum you should do the triple rinse and screen it. Miracle Gro isn't a "good" choice. It's just the one that is commonly available and has predictable results.

Honestly, I would still add a filter to the mix. At a minimum, the mechanical aspect should help keep the water clear. The added biological provides a nice safety net for future ammonia spikes. Not to mention, bacteria produce CO2, so why not have more?


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Tugg is right. The information in the sticky thread "Suitable soils for the Walstad method" will cover the problems with Miracle Grow. This doesn't mean that you can't use it if it is the only soil available, but you will save yourself a lot of trouble if you thoroughly prepare it first.

Another common mistake for beginners to make the soil and cap layer too deep. You don't want more than 1.5" of soil, and 1" of sand.

And I agree with Tugg about the filter. It will help to stabilize the tank in the beginning, provide water flow later on, and act as safeguard for any accidental ammonia spikes that might occur.

One last tip: plant heavily right from the start. It is common for beginners to think, "I'll try one or two plants and see how they do before I get more." Waltad tanks depend on a large biomass of plants for their stability. It is perfectly acceptable to stuff a new tank with cheap, fast growing stems and floating plants until the slower growing permanent plants establish. Then you can remove the fast growers.

Have fun!


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## batkidiii (Nov 12, 2014)

Thank you for the information. I have another question.

Should I place the plants in right away after laying down the soil and cap?


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## batkidiii (Nov 12, 2014)

Also, could I use a canister filter with the dirted tank?


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Yes to both. I really like canister filters. Mine are filled with nothing but biomedia, with a prefilter sponge on the intake. I clean the sponge whenever the flow is reduced, and leave the biomedia alone for months at a time. Very low maintenance!


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## batkidiii (Nov 12, 2014)

Thanks for all your help, Michael. Would you recommend frequent water changes when you first put in the soil?


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## GadgetGirl (Sep 25, 2013)

Here is my story: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/showthread.php?t=89304
I had good luck with Miracle Grow Organic Choice and a sand cap. 1 in of each. I rinsed and mineralized the soil and used mature filter media. I never had any ammonia or nitrites. I do about 20% water change a month. I recently moved and had to start over. I used Scott's premium topsoil as a soil layer this time. I rinsed the soil several times, but did not mineralize. Again I used mature filter media. It's been set up a little over a month with no ammonia or nitrites. I reintroduced the fish a week after setting up.

Do you mean putting the plants in before filling with water? Some people do that. Depends on the plants. Always plant heavily from the start. Don't set up and fill the tank without adding the plants right away. The plants need to start "doing their thing" from the beginning.

I was very nervous in the beginning. I read and read, and read some more. I found Michael's sticky dealing with suitable soils to be VERY helpful!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## batkidiii (Nov 12, 2014)

Thank you Gadgetgirl. I did read your thread and it was very helpful. Actually, yours was the most informative piece on the Walstad method that I have ran across. Thank you all for the support. I think I might actually give this a go.


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## GadgetGirl (Sep 25, 2013)

Thank you batkidiii! That's good to hear! I tried to do a detailed journal to help others and also for me to keep track of events. 
Go for it! I was shocked and amazed at the method. Once you take the leap, you never look back. Don't know why I waited all these years, enduring ho-hum tanks! I'm still not an expert, but I'll try to help you any way I can! 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## smmcgill (Oct 26, 2014)

How's it going, Byron? I'm really interested to see what you do in your tank!


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## smmcgill (Oct 26, 2014)

Michael said:


> Yes to both. I really like canister filters. Mine are filled with nothing but biomedia, with a prefilter sponge on the intake. I clean the sponge whenever the flow is reduced, and leave the biomedia alone for months at a time. Very low maintenance!


Can I tag on to this thread to ask relevant (I think), related questions? By biomedia, do you just mean something to hold a bacterial culture? May i ask what exactly you use in your planted tanks? In your case, is the prefilter sponge for mechanical filtration, or to keep critters from being sucked in?

I ask because, like Byron, I had my filter in mind just for water flow, but currently have seeded filter floss in there while the tank is new.


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Yes, biomedia is anything that provides a good surface for bacterial growth. I use the mediuim supplied with the filter, plus small diameter (3/4" and less) lava rock if I need more. I usually do need more because the room in the filter usually occupied by mechanical and chemical filtration media is filled with biomedia.

The sponge prefilter serves both functions: keeping shrimp and baby fish out of the filter, and mechanical filtration.

This is not an absolute rule, LOL. ! still have sponge, mesh, or filter fiber inside some of my filters, depending on the age of the tank and whether or not it needs more mechanical filtration. But mechanical media inside the filter is usually a temporary measure in response to a particular problem, like cloudy water after rearranging plants and hardscape.


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