# Algae with ferts



## marvelous (Jul 29, 2006)

I have a 75 gallon 75% planted. I have a fully automatic CO2 system with an American Marine pH controller. My target pH through the controller is 6.9 and my KH is 6 - CO2 is 22.661 ppm. My ferts include NPK offset with Flourish and Flourish Excel every 3rd day. I use root tabs and Eco Complete substrate. I have 4 65 Dual Daylight CF lights producing 3.5 WPG and 260 watts. It seems every time I add my ferts I get some algae - brown and some sort of filamentous algae. ALL of my plants are growing very well, but this algae is unacceptable. Based on the information provided, does anyone have an idea why I am getting this algae? It is not an abundance of algae, but as any planted tank enthusiast knows - pretty much any algae that is visible is bad. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

My first thought is your co2 is too low. With that much light you should be in the 30 to 40ppm range?

My second thought is light. How many hours are you running the 3.5wpg on the tank?

My third thought is fishload and feeding. What is your fishload and what is your feeding schedule?


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Don't assume that you have enough CO2 just because the KH/pH tables say you do. That method is at best a rough estimate of how much you have. And, the pH controller is not a good way to arrive at the right CO2 level. If you want to use the controller, set the bubble rate considerably higher than you think you will need - probably several hundred bubbles per minute - and reduce the set point about .2. Watch the tank carefully for signs of discomfort by the fish, and for signs that the algae isn't growing back when you clean it out. After two or three days, reduce the set point another .2 and repeat. If you get lucky you will find the pH where the algae does not immediately regrow when you remove it, and that will be before the fish show any discomfort. Once you find that, measure both the KH and the pH and use those as targets in the future. Don't assume that that the pH reading means anything other than as a measure of CO2 in the water - don't worry if it seems very low.


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## marvelous (Jul 29, 2006)

Thanks for the prompt reply. To answer your question I have 4 high fin green corydoras, 10 otocinclus, 10 amano shrimp and 15 harlequin rasboras. I leave the tank lights on for 12 hours per day and both the lights and CO2 on on a timer - they shut of at the same time. I feed my fish 2x/day as much as they will eat in a few minutes. I was actually considering reducing the light duration to 10 hours per day to see if this might have some effect on the algae.


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## redstrat (Apr 3, 2006)

I have a similar set up to you as far as lighting and tank size, plant load, but I can't afford to go pressurized yet but I have accomplished pretty high CO2 levels through DIY injection. Anyway I had problems with algae all the time with a 12hr photo period, even when my CO2 was so high that the fish were showing signs of stress. Definately try the 8-10 hour range you would be suprized what it can do for you. Also I definately agree with trying to match CO2 need with the affect on the tank and the inhabitants rather than the tables, yeah they are a great guide but testing equipment is never truely accurate and a lot goes into that PH number other than CO2 and KH so definately try what hoppycalif says too. 

Good luck


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

_I leave the tank lights on for 12 hours per day and both the lights and CO2 on on a timer - they shut of at the same time. _

Couple of things. It sounds like your keeping both sets of light or all the lights on for the full 12 hours. That is really not necessary and will certainly increase the likelihood of algae profilerating in your tank. I would reduce the overall lighting period to 10 hours and only run the full amount (3.5wpg) for a few hours per day (3 to 4). If the algae pulls back you can increase the full wattage slowly until you get to about 5 to 6 hrs.

_I feed my fish 2x/day as much as they will eat in a few minutes. _

Feeding fish twice a day is really unnecessary and again will increase the likelihood of algae ESPECIALLY in a high-light tank. Remember even if all the food get's eaten the fish are still creating more waste in the tank. Waste (NH3) and high-light is a algae breeding ground.

The more light you have and the more waste you have will increase your likelihood of getting algae I don't care how good your plants are growing. This is fact and is tough to dispute, but if you could get even better growth out of your plants by increasing co2 that can only help the situation. If you increase co2, reduce light cycle and reduce feeding you situation should improve if all the other things are in place (ferts, etc.)

BTW - I have a 72g bowfront heavily planted, pressurized co2 with 192watts (2.7 wpg) and I have no problems. I run my lights for 11hrs a day starting of with 96watts and then running the full 192watts for 5 hours in the middle of the day and then reducing it back to 96watts toward the end of the lighting period. I feed my fish a pinch 6 days a week once a day. I have 23 cardinals, 2 blue rams, 2 bolivan rams, 4 rummys, 5 pencils, 4 black neonsk, shrimp, corys, otos and all are fine and have been that way for a long time.


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## marvelous (Jul 29, 2006)

Thanks again to everyone. As I said before, algae is not running rampant in my tank. I only want to try and stop it from getting worse. I will certainly reduce my photo period from 12 to 10 hours and see if this helps. My aquarium looks like someone shook a soda bottle - every plant has bubbles coming from it and all are pearling, so I know they are doing well. I do have a large stand of wisteria in the back. Someone mentioned in another post that wisteria may rob other plants of nutrients - any truth to this. To put it in perspective my wisteria has grown at least 1 inch since yesterday morning. By the way - based on the fish load information I provided, does this seem lke too many fish? I didn't think so. I have an Eheim 2026 cannister filter.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I second what houseofcards (may we call you house?) said about feeding the fish too much and about the light duration. I have found that even once a day feeding that gets eaten in a minute or less, means rampant snail population growth, which is a sure sign of overfeeding. I don't think wisteria will rob other plants of nutrients, it just means you need to dose more to provide what they all need.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

_I second what houseofcards (may we call you house?) _
Absolutely!


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## redstrat (Apr 3, 2006)

I have two large sections of Wisteria in my 75g tank... they probably do use a lot of nutrients but I dose per EI and haven't had any algea problems since I switched to 8-10hr photo period. Definately watch how much you feed though because its going to be waste one way or another as House was saying.  I feed 1 time a day as much as they can eat in 30 seconds to a minute. Granted I have some agressive feeders, tiger barbs who will grab food from the mouths of others a lot of food can go very quickly. Our fish can normally go a few days without food so eating smaller ammounts everyday will more than satisfy them. Also keep that CO2 up, even if you see pearling with 3.5wpg in a 75gallon you need all the CO2 you can get, without optimal CO2 saturation algae can prove to be a fierce competitor for nutrients.


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