# Please Help out a Newby! :)



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Hello, I am setting up my first planted aquarium tank. It is a 75gallon with an overflow, sump/refugium/filter, and UV sterilizer. For my substrate as of now I am using just plain/typical aquarium gravel for a bottom layer for the plants to root into. Then I am planning on putting pool filter sand over top of that. I have heard that this sand causes algea bloom is this true? Also what are my other choices? I know about flourite but that is just too exspensive. I am setting this tank up for my AP Biology class so im kind of in a tight budget. Please help me out!

Thank-You


----------



## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

There is no need to put down sand (plant wise) unless you want it for asthetic purposes. But as long as you keep the tank clean and have fast growing plants that will compete with the algae, you should be fine. Make sure to add some tablet nutrients into the substrate so that the plants can survive. One cheap option is to mineralize soil, but it seems that you have already started the tank so that is not really an option. 

Good luck and keep me posted, pics would be great!


----------



## brackish bro (Jan 22, 2010)

you can use black diamond or black beauty which is a blasting sand that is full of iron or you can go to autozone and pick up some thrifty zorb which is a clay about 40 lbs for 6 dollars


----------



## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Knotty Bitz told you right! Remember not too much light...


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

So is there any better option than pool filter sand to use? I really just like the look better, or is the look not worth the down sides of it? This doesnt cause huge algea blooms?

Also, should I put something else under the sand for a carbon source for bacteria? What could I use. Is the blasting sand a good choice? 

Thanks


----------



## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

There isn't really a downside in using pool filter sand. It has no impact on algae blooms. The only thing it does is make the algae more viewable as apposed to brown or black substrate. The algae might actually be a cool thing to show your students.


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Okay thanks Knotty! Should I put something else with the gravel and under the sand for a source of carbon and other elements/minerals?


----------



## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

It is a good idea if you have rooting plants. Plant fertilizer tablets are available. You just put the appropriate amount in every month or so (depends on instructions). I would not worry about carbon. Most low tech plants don't require extra co2. If you believe that your plants need it then fluorish excel is an option. It comes in liquid form. But again, you are probably looking to buy hardy plants which will be fine without it.


----------



## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

I know your discussing the substrate, but without knowing what kind of light your using it would be difficult IMO to determine what else you need.


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Sorry lighting will be 4x54w HOT5's.


----------



## A_Shea (Jun 2, 2007)

I think that the sand and the gravel would be a good idea. It looks very natural. I used the sand in a low tech shrimp tank and everything was perfect. Also it depends on the plants too. crypts and swords would do well with the gravel but certain other plants such as foreground plants need more of a fine substrate for best results.


----------



## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

With that much light you might want to add co2.


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Would a DIY CO2 system with yeist be enough CO2 for it? Also when the water goes through the overflow it then drops onto bio balls and doesnt go directly into water will that cause most of the CO2 to escape?


----------



## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

That will cause alot of co2 to escape. What type of plants are you planning on buying?


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

As of right now probably a sword or two. Some Sagitteria, vallisneria, java fern. Are those good begginner choices or any recomendations?


----------



## Knotty Bitz (Mar 11, 2009)

Yes those are good beginners. I am just afraid that you have too much light for a low tech tank. If possible I would decrease it to around one what per gallon.


----------



## Muirner (Jan 9, 2007)

I agree with everyone else. That will be a lot of light for the tank... Look into something like i have in my sig. I DIY'ed it and it wasnt expensive. If you want i'll sell ya it  Or trade for those lights :-D


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Well I can run the fixture with just two bulbs or all four bulbs. I have it from my 40gallon reef that I took down so I didnt buy it for this just using what I have. So you think 2 54w T5HO's would be good enough for a 75gallon even if the lights are about 12 inches above the tank with glass lids?

When you say I have too much light do you just mean that algea will grow or that it actually wont be good for the plants as well?


----------



## Muirner (Jan 9, 2007)

What *I* mean by to much light is, you're going to be walking a very fine line. The duration of the lights will be the end all be all of this. Too much light, and nutrient excess will lead to algae. Even if you fertalize you'll need CO2 because if your using stem plants they will grow really really fast.

Dont get me wrong, it can be done. You could do 2 all day, and 4 for a noonish burst. But T5 light is some of the best output there is. Start low and work your way up... Also look into ferts and some sort of CO2 option, diy or pressurized.

The only way the plants wouldnt like that much light, is if the substrate has 0 nutriants and there is no ferts added to the water collumn, with 0 co2 supplmentation. It'll just be tough for them to grow healthy and not stunted.


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

So just to make sure im understanding you. If I do just two lights then I wouldnt need as much fertilizer and CO2 supplements? And if I do all four bulbs then there would be a greater need for CO2 and fertilizer? Sorry if these are kind of dumb questions I'm just learning.


----------



## Muirner (Jan 9, 2007)

Never a dumb question, planted tanks are tricky and can be touchy. Heck if you look back at all my posts i asked many of the same questions.

If you do two lights, the WPG (Watts per Gallon) will be lower. This will slow the growth rate of the plants considerably. With the plants growing slower this will reduce the need for CO2 (might not negate it) but you could probably do DIY CO2 with an efficient scheme to disolve the co2 into the water. Nutrients will be added when you do a water change (WC) but if there isnt enough in the water that is when fertalizing is needed.

A noontime burst will simulate the sun being at the highest point and intensity. Really it will just give your plants some extra oomph! Also because your not using so many WPG you will be less likely to experience an algae bloom. Excess nutriants, or water parameters that are out of wack will cause a bloom.

One thing to note. If you can cover 60-75% of the footprint of the tank with plants, preferably a lot of fast growing stems, your going to be taking a very proactive approach to preventing algae. Another note, if you are sticking with aquarium gravel, you may want to look into SMS (Soil Master Select). It is a good intert substrate with a very high CEC (Cation exchange capacity) meaning there is a lot of room for benificial bacteria to thrive. It is cheap, widly available, there are a few colors.

You could add a very thin layer of the most plain jane variety of top soil (no shultz or any other type that has fertalizers built in) and that would help provide some nutriants to your plants. You may want to look around the El Natural section of this site, and get some ideas. But modify it a little bit as your using quality lights. I wish i had some T5HO's! 

OH!!! Speaking of T5's, you said you took yours from your reef. To me this means you were using 10-20k bulbs. You will want to at least examine the spectrum they produced and find one that is more suitable for a planted tank if the current bulbs are not. Typically people here use 6500k-10k bulbs.


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Well my plan as of right now is to have about 1- 1 1/2" of gravel with pool filter sand on top of that. Should I put some of the SMS under the sand with the gravel? Would that be helpful/beneficial? Or would the bacteria not be able to thrive under the sandbed? If so where can I find this SMS at? Home Depot?

Yes the lights I have are 2 10K's and 2 Actinicts probably about 18k's. So with that configuration should I use all four bulbs?


----------



## Muirner (Jan 9, 2007)

Actinic bulbs will do nothing to help your aquarium out at all. In my opinion i would change those out. The 10k's you may/probably will be able to use, all depending on the spectrum they put out.

I wouldnt sweat the SMS, it is just another inert substrate, and another option. It isnt available in anything under 50lb bags i believe. Check Lesco for where you can get it if desired. But i believe your substrate choice will be fine.


----------



## JC_1992 (Jan 27, 2010)

Would this work? Anyon every used it?

http://www.fairmountminerals.com/interior.asp?page=Silica Sands&category=Products&level1=PC_Silica Sand

About $4 at Menards for 50lbs. Heres what they say (The company)

Silica Sands

Fairmount Minerals offers both the high purity round grain that is mined from the St. Peters Sand deposit in Wedron, IL and the high purity sub-round grain shape from Chardon, OH. Both types of sand are ideal for all types of Foundries. The grain shape and high-purity silica content result in low binder percentages for cores and molds. This product is offered in a range between 20 AFS/GFN and 130 AFS/GFN.

Advantages

Available in round or sub-round grain shape 
99.9% SiO2 purity for high refractoriness 
Washed and dried for better coating of the binder to the grains 
3,125° F Melt Point is ideal for steel castings 
High density molds and cores for burn-in resistance 
4-screen distribution available for higher density molds & cores 
State-of-the-art blending ensures a consistent grade of silica


----------

