# A Canadian Journey into NPT



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

*Intro*: While we had a small fish tank growing up, I've never had one of my own (long been a dog person when it comes to pets). However, current living circumstances don't support a dog - and after considering a few other options and consulting with my wife and children, an aquarium is the answer. I've also gone through some personal and professional hardship over the past few months, and I'm optimistic that this journey will add some peace and zen to my life. Failing that, maybe it'll entertain and/or educate the kids.

*Goal*: Create a NPT with a sustainable pseudo-ecosystem without spending a ton of money (read: under $500, hopefully). Avoid any in-tank genocide (of either fish or plants).

*Equipment*: I've got nothing. I can probably abscond with one of my wife's large containers to soak the topsoil, but that's about it. I've spent the past two weeks reading this forum and several other online resources in order to educate myself on the how and what of aquariums in general, and Mrs. Walstad's NPT method in particular. My plan is to go purchase some top-soil this weekend and begin a mineralization process. If nothing ideal pops up used on Kijiji (like Craigslist, only without the unsavory components as far as I can tell), I'll likely go purchase a 46 gallon bowfront tank/stand. I feel like something in the 30-50 gallon range presents a nice balance between "bigger is easier to sustain balance" and "that thing is taking over the living room". I don't particularly want to spend the $320 for the tank/stand combo, but it's the one that the family collective supports. ( http://tinyurl.com/lva3bhr - please note that I'm strongly anti-PetSmart, but the aquarium proper is cheaper there than the more local and pleasant pet store...and I prefer the dark brown stand to the black one at the local place.)

*Current issues/decisions*: 
1) Lighting. The tanks I'm looking at are generally 18-24" in depth, so I'm reasonably confident that no stock tank light will do the job. Seems like any "good" lighting system is far more than I'm looking to spend...so looking into some sort of "two shop lights that attach to the back of the tank, with decent CFL lights" solution. Seems like I should be able to do that for about $60 (20 per fixture, 10 per light), though that's perhaps optimistic if I want to get shop lights that won't offend my wife's (justified) sense of living room decor.
2) Decor. Though I'm confident I'll have a near-zero ability to make a pretty tank, that shouldn't be a barrier to trying. (I made the mistake of looking at some professional aquascapes that were stunningly beautiful.) I have little interest in paying a the requested sums for large rocks and/or driftwood at the local aquarium, but I'm also not sure how comfortable I am with the clean-wash-boil option for "find your own driftwood" or the clean-wash option for rocks. I am certain that I want one or more prominent pieces of one of those things. The beautiful aquascapes appeared to be centered around one of those (rock/driftwood) or well-organized and groomed plants. The latter is surely not an option for me.

Other things I plan on doing or not doing:
- no CO2, looking to keep it simple
- filter for water movement, will have on during day, off at night to facilitate CO2...though this could well be wrong, and on 24/7 could be better.
- in-tank heater

*Action plan*:
Soon: purchase topsoil, mineralize

Soon II: purchase dolomite, potassium chloride, red clay, 30-50 gallon tank, visit local "sell plants from home" guy I've located on Kijiji who's prices seems much cheaper/more reasonable than the local aquarium stores ( http://tinyurl.com/k7oa3j5 ). I have no strong understanding of/preference for what sorts of plants, so I'm hoping to just explain my general plan to the gentlemen (I've corresponded w/ him via e-mail) and trust that he'll sort me out. Looking to start with a large volume of stem and floating plants.

Later: Once the tank is planted and the water levels are stable, then we'll engage the family in this process. They each get to select one or two types of fish, I will research to ensure compatibility, and then we'll be set. Or at least we'll be started. I'm not concerned about the fish part right now.

Pictures to follow, once there is something tangible to actually take pictures of.

(Note: I am clearly a neophyte, especially compared to many who post on these forums. I work and live in a world of critical thinking and analysis. I don't invite criticism, I encourage it. If I write or do anything that seems inadvisable or wrong, please share. This of course assumes a non-zero level of readership or interest, which may or may not be a reasonable assumption! :ninja


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Alexander, welcome to APC and the Walstad method!

All of your current thinking is sound, with only one exception. Run your filter 24/7. If you avoid excessive splashing and disturbance of the water surface, it will not affect your CO2 levels much. An over-sized filter full of biomedia is an excellent insurance policy against accidental fish genocide. You want to run it all the time because the beneficial bacteria that will colonize the biomedia are strongly dependent on oxygen--they need a constant supply.

This next suggestion is purely a matter of personal preference, but have you looked at a 40 gallon breeder tank? This is a nice medium size, the portions of the tank make it easy to design a pleasing aquascape, and the relatively shallow depth make lighting very easy. Another plus is that these tanks go on sale regularly (at least here in the states) for $1 per gallon.

Bowfront tanks are more expensive that rectangular tanks of similar size, and the curved glass causes an optical distortion which some people (me, LOL) find unpleasant.

For lighting, I strongly suggest spiral compact fluorescent (CFL) tubes mounted vertically in fixtures with decent reflectors. Vertical mounting is important because the tubes give almost twice as much useful light than if they are mounted horizontally. (This is counter-intuitive, but it has been demonstrated many times with light meters.) The fixtures can be as simple as clamp-on work lights with aluminum reflectors from the hardware store. For just a little more money, you could buy simple pendant light fixtures and suspend them over the tank. Reflectors that are painted white on the inside work very well.

This system has many advantages. It is easy to find CFLs in daylight versions (~6,000 K) that grow plants well. If you need to reduce or increase light, you can move the fixtures closer or farther away from the tank, or you can purchase a different wattage of CFL. No other type of lighting gives you this much flexibility, even the really expensive stuff.

For a 36" tank, two or three fixtures would be plenty, depending on the spread from the reflectors and how far you hang them above the tank.

Good luck, and please keep us updated.


----------



## atc84 (May 18, 2013)

you came to the right forum for your questions! haha, oh and welcome to APC! You have a really good handle on things, btw.

A lot of things michael covered, which i agree with completely, but ill give you my opinion on some things.

the deal with finding wood is kind of a luck factor. If you see something you like, great, use it. Contradictory to wood, rock really isn't hard to deal with. Theirs a few rocks you cant throw in, which i heard can be tested by putting vinegar on it. If it fizzes, dont use it. 

Understanding the growth rate and mature size of each will greatly increase your ability to scape your aquarium. Also, straight lines are unappealing to the eye, so slanting your rocks/wood makes a better scape. 

Red clay will help bring out the red in plants, so use that to your advantage . Diana suggests a powerhead, but a HOB aquaclear is awesome for bio filtration.

You may or may not have problems with algae, fish, plants, but whatever happens can be solved, so dont be discouraged 

Make sure to get a API Master test kit if you havnt already. Check your tap for ammonia and its ph.


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

Michael - appreciate the input about the filter. Sounds good, 24/7 it is. Also sound advice on the tank proper. Discussed it over with the relevant in-home decision-makers, and we're weighing the 30G breeder and 40G breeder, with the latter likely to win out. I just don't like the thin tanks. I get that they're to increase the viewable area for, well, human observers...but I'm not sure that's the right balance for me. (Balance between the plant/fish/whatever interest in a healthy, enjoyable life in captivity and the ability of humans to benefit from the visual spectacle, such as it is.)

*Lighting*: This continues to be my most meaningful ongoing issue. I continue to have a near-zero level of desire to spend a ton (read: >$100) of money on this part of the equation. It just seems to me, rightly or wrongly, that neither lights not light fixtures should cost that much. (Disclaimer: if you were to rank my DIY aptitude on a scale from "my dog" to "you", I'm going to be much closer to my dog. Your DIY aptitude is largely irrelevant for that analysis, and it factors in that my dog passed away two years ago. In short, making anything that doesn't come with clear instructions is not a forte, or even something I attempt. Until now, I suppose.)

My current notion is to purchase a couple of these spiral CFL lights and aluminum shop light fixtures from Home Depot, and figure out some way to elevate the fixture above the aquarium. This latter bit poses something of a barrier, given my dearth of actual DIY skills and a fairly limited imagination when it comes to even the most basic feats of engineering.

(Apologies for poor picture quality. Wasn't intended for public viewing. Well, until after the fact, I suppose.)




*Actual Progress Update*:

My son and I assembled this Target-purchased and wife-approved stand. There is now an official place for this adventure to go:



The top measures 45x19, so it can support the aforementioned 40 gallon breeder. Well, it may collapse, I suppose, but it's large enough that the tank can go on top. (Note: collapsing would be bad, and would almost surely violate my original "avoid genocide" goal.)

Hoping to purchase soil today and begin the mineralization process. Also learned that the least objectionable local aquarium store has free water testing, so will be bringing them a sample of my tap water so I know what I'm working with here. With any luck, I may be a week or so from actual living things (read: plants). That will require a reasonable solution to the lighting topic though.


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

*More Updates*:

- Had water tested for free today - my tap water. Ph was 7.2, KH 5, GH 9. I'm not entirely sure what that means, but I'll look it up later. I don't imagine it's going to matter in the next few days, since that's just mineralization time.

- Purchased topsoil. Was a bit concerned by the "Garden top soil" label, but encouraged by the $2.95 price tag for the 28L bag. I've since dumped it into a container, flooded it, and scooped out most of the floating debris (largely wood, from what I can discern, which isn't much.)

Surely boring to all but me, but two pics of dirt in a container.

Tastes worse than it looks: http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/ensrucker/Min1_zps25672e18.jpg

Dirt under dirtwater: http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/ensrucker/Min2_zps0020eef5.jpg

*Next Steps*:

- Learned while getting free water testing that there is going to be a big sale at the local aquarium on the 20th. That gives me 11 days to sort through the mineralization process and figure out a lighting solution. I plan to purchase:

- 40G breeder
- HOB filter (bio filter only, 24/7 runnings!) for water movement (possibly Eheim canister if great sale price)
- heater
-aquarium gravel

Pretty sure that will enable me to lay the foundation for the NPT - substrate/gravel + filter + heater. That should create the necessary foundation for me to visit the plant dealer fellow I located online, make a large purchase heavy on the stem plants and begin my carpet-bombing approach to the initial planting.


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Those are the same fixtures and CFLs I used over my 20 high. I will try to take a photo in the next few days and post it. The fixtures are held above the tank by a piece of metal conduit, bent into an L shape. I removed the clamps and simply suspended the fixtures by their cords, held by plastic zip ties.

Sounds crude, but I call it "industrial chic".


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

*Updates:*

In order...
- went to "tent sale" at local aquarium story...purchased Eheim 2211 canister filter for $40 and Eheim 250W heater for $10. Filter had media, but was missing suction cups (discovered this later, fixed by purchasing them separately for $20).
- purchased two pieces of driftwood from same store that I thought looked neat.
- recently purchased a used 30G tank. Decided that my earlier plan to go w/ a 46G or 40G might be a bit ambitious given my amateur status. Got the tank and a bunch of accessories for $175. In addition to the tank, it included an Eheim 2213 canister filter, a 30" T5HO light fixture (Current USA, this: http://www.amazon.com/Current-ACU01137-Extreme-Saltwater-Fixture/dp/B000YHCYEY ), a bucket of live plants, some gravel substrate, and a bunch of things I will likely not need or use.

*Next Steps/Questions*:

- T5HO lighting system currently sporting a 24W 10k bulb and a 24W 12k bulb. They're over a year old...plus, I seem to recall reading that's not what I'd want for a Walstad tank. Suggestions on bulb types before I head to aquarium store on Tuesday to get two new bulbs?

- So now I inadvertently have two Eheim canister filters, both with more capacity than my 30G tank. I'm assuming I can just use both for water movement and additional bio filtration...and was going to set it up so that they intake and spray bar to opposite sides of the tank, if that makes sense. (eg. A intake, B spraybar, A spraybar, B intake going from left to right on the back of the tank.) I came up with this on my own, so it surely has some fatal flaw - I trust someone here will enlighten me before I cross some ill-advised point of no return.

- Right now, I'm going to combine my now-mineralized (in theory) soil with some red clay, make me some mud, drop 1" of it in the tank, then cover with gravel substrate, then add water, then add the bucket of free plants, then turn on light, turn on filters, turn on light and take pictures.

- In the next few days, I plan to meet with this aquarium plant guy I've located online and get a more robust array (and quantity) of plants, especially stem plants. Then I'll likely start testing the water every few days until all is well in the world and fish can be introduced. That latter part is all my kids and wife seemingly care about, which is fine.


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

ok...pictures. First 3 are day 0 (substrate + driftwood), day 1 (same, plus water and a half-dozen plants), and day 3 (a few minutes ago, with water looking clearer).

*Day 0*


*Day 1*


*Day 3*


As mentioned above...the gentleman from whom I purchased the tank/light/filter also gave me a bucket of plants. The half-dozen most robust (alive, and seemingly somewhat enthusiastic about remaining thus) plants were, well, planted. Having no clue, I just pushed their roots through the gravel substrate into the actual soil. I'm assuming this is correct, but will surely find out in the next few days or weeks if I was correct.

I've no clue what these plants are, and assume they are common and unexceptional, which is fine.

*Plant 1*


*Plant 2*


*Next Step*
As referenced in prior post, my plan is to get a much larger volume of plants into the tank in the next few days, and, once the water stabilizes, eventually introduce fish.


----------



## Kerry (Sep 5, 2013)

since you are looking for ideas for lighting I thought I throw my DIY hanger out for you...this is really simple to make, just 3 piece of wood and a pair of plant hangers (or even bookshelf brackets would work)
In this light system I used a track light with cans for par lamps (will hold spiral compacts too) housed in a cheesy-looking Top Fin light fixture and hung with retractable light hangers (Yoyos). The wood hanger is just screwed together and then Zip tied to the legs of my metal stand. I think this would be better if I did it again, if I 1. lost the Top Fin light housing...it's not needed anyway as the track light bar can be hung without a housing. 2. I would go with white/lighter colored fixtures and paint on the hanger so it is not as obtrusive. 

Anyway, that was my reef tank light using par38 reef lights. I'm currently changing this same tank over to a planted fw tank and will be replacing the track light with a t5 fixture that I will also hang from this hanger. Hope this helps give you some ideas....this fixture doesn't take any real DIY skills.


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

Very cool, thanks!


----------



## atc84 (May 18, 2013)

Very nice! like the wood 

The second plant is wisteria i believe and the first is some java fern maybe...


----------



## Kerry (Sep 5, 2013)

Yeah, it's looking good! That fern you'll want to leave the rizome above the surface of the gravel or tie it onto the wood.


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

*Update*: So it's now day 4 post-assembly and I took the water into the LFS for free water testing. Fine employee there informs me that testing is pointless, as without any fish, I cannot have any ammonia/nitrates/nitrites and that until I get fish in there, the cycle won't/can't begin. I'm fairly sure he's wrong, but didn't push the matter. I did, however, get my water tested regardless. He informed me that "of course, your ammonia is 0, same for nitrate/nitrite". Other relevant numbers:
Ph: 7.4
Kh: 100 ppm (he said it's a "6", and then provided me the PPM number when I asked for it)
Gh: 120 ppm ("soft" he said)

I've arranged to meet the plant guy this evening, and will be expanding the volume of plants significantly at that time.

Unless I misunderstand what's going on (entirely possible), my initial mineralization/soil prep process and tank setup is such that once those additional plants are added (tonight) I can probably begin adding fish. I based this on the understanding that initial ammonia spikes in NPT are a result of things in the soil substrate...and the mineralization process resulted in more NPT-friendly substrate that permits me to create a suitable environment for plants/fish more expeditiously. Am I missing something? Still quite eager not to murder fish unnecessarily (and likely traumatize my young children).

-- Lighting update. My current plan is to get one of these bulbs (6700K T5HO - http://angelfins.ca/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28212&products_id=631 )...still not sure what to do about the 2nd bulb. Any thoughts/opinions, otherwise I'll eventually dive into a multi-hour investigation/research project to gain knowledge I will lose shortly after figuring out what bulb(s) I should, in fact, be getting.


----------



## Kerry (Sep 5, 2013)

As organic material in the soil substrate decomposes, it will give off ammonia...that is where your cycling will come from, but, the plants consume the ammonia, so, if you have enough plants, you should see very little ammonia and nitrite. the ammonia production may only just be getting started in your substrate, so, keep tabs on possible buildup with ammonia testing until you are sure it is being completely handled by your plants. 

Just two 6500k will work fine in you light.


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

OK...purchased a bunch of plants, and, well, planted them. Will post picture later on.

*Stem plants*
Asian ambulia x24 
Rotala Rotundifolia x24

*Carpeting plants*
Blyxa Japonica x20
Whorled Pennywort x16
Staurogyne Repens x40


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

As promised...pics:


----------



## Kerry (Sep 5, 2013)

Looks great!


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Nice start!

Don't listen to what the fine employee says. I doubt he understands soil substrates and planted tanks. Kerry is right about the soil producing ammonia. which is used by plants. And you are correct that mineralization reduces this, by "pre-decomposing" the organics in the soil.

But we still like to test water before we put fish in, just to be certain that all these processes are working correctly. This way we avoid causing any suffering or trauma to the fish--or the kids!


----------



## atc84 (May 18, 2013)

wow, what an epic tank! What plant is that in the background on the rightish middle area? it has a really good look to it.

how is your wood on the left standing up? is it because its not waterlogged?


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

atc84 said:


> wow, what an epic tank! What plant is that in the background on the rightish middle area? it has a really good look to it.


Stem plants at the back in the right half of the tank are Asian ambulia.



> how is your wood on the left standing up? is it because its not waterlogged?


It's connected via nut/bolt to a large, flat chunk of rock.


----------



## FirstBetta (Oct 15, 2013)

Alexander said:


> *Updates:*
> 
> - T5HO lighting system currently sporting a 24W 10k bulb and a 24W 12k bulb. They're over a year old...plus, I seem to recall reading that's not what I'd want for a Walstad tank. Suggestions on bulb types before I head to aquarium store on Tuesday to get two new bulbs?
> 
> ...


----------



## Alexander (Sep 4, 2013)

Thanks...and appreciate the insight. Right now I've got a 6400K (24W) and an 18000K (24W), though I've got a second 6400K still in the box. I was going to do the two different bulbs for a month, then try the two 6400K for the second month and see what difference I could discern in the results. The stem plants appear to be growing fairly robustly at present w/ the 6400k/18000k combo.


----------

