# So Confused



## AQUAMX (Jan 24, 2005)

Hi guys

Im getting myself so confused as to how much ferts to be dosing. Mt tank is 100g (379litres), co2 at 30-35mg/l and lighting is 2wpg. I have purchased dry ferts NO3.PO4 and K. I have liquid traces. 

Im a little scared to get going, lol, i feel so stupid but im so used to simply buying and using pre-mix. What system should i follow? PPS or EI or another?

Can someone please help me out and get me going. Seems the more i read the more i get confused.

If i were to start without asking using PPS i would add KNO3-20.38g, KH2PO4-5.97g and K2SO4-15.74g in a 500ml solution dosing 10ml daily for 100g. Does this sound right.

Can someone offer me an easier way to get a feel for this.

Thank you

Brad


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Since you are new, I would probably start with EI versus PPS. EI is just too simple. Pack the tank with plants and keep your CO2 levels up. There is a link for fertilizing a 20g tank midway through this article under the title "A Typical Dosing Routine": 
http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1

To keep it simple for a 100g tank, packed with plants, good CO2 levels and 2wpg, you could add:
.5-.75 tsp of KNO3 3-4x a week
3/16 - 1/4 tsp of KH2PO4 3-4x a week
15-20ml of a trace solution 3x a week

I've never used the Equilibrium that Tom mentions so do what you prefer or can afford  The beauty of EI is that there is no testing required. You can test if you want but you don't have to.

PPS is also simple to use but you need to have a scale to measure out the ferts and make your solutions and you also need to calibrate your test kits (which should probably be done with any hobbyist grade kits). Edward has upgraded PPS so that you can quadruple the amounts, not test and do 50% water changes.

Whichever method you decide upon give it some time to work (weeks versus days) and you should see some good results.


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## AQUAMX (Jan 24, 2005)

Matt,

what can i say you have made it very simple for me. I can not thank you enough. I will start with your recommendation. Im assuming that i will be dosing the dry amounts straight into the aquarium? Is it preferable to mix with some water or simply throw it straight in?

Thank you again

Brad


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

Hey Brad,

I would use this calculator to figure out how much KNO3 and KH2PO4 to mix in water to dose around 1ppm NO3 and 0.1ppm PO4 per mL of solution to your tank:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_dosage_calc.htm

Then if you decide to use EI, I would add:
5-10ppm NO3 (i.e. 5-10mL of your KNO3 solution) 2-3x a week
0.5-1ppm PO4 (5-10mL of KH2PO4 solution) 2-3x a week
traces (recommended amount on bottle) 2-3x a week
50% weekly water change
optional: 1.25tsp K2SO4 or around 10ppm K (dose dry) after weekly water change

If you have heavy fish load (e.g. Discus) and feed frequently, maybe start with the lower end of the dose.

HTH, but I'm sure other people will chime in with better ideas. 

EDIT: Oops, just saw MatPat's reply. I would go with his recommendations instead.  Above is just what works for me.


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

AQUAMX said:


> Matt,
> 
> what can i say you have made it very simple for me. I can not thank you enough. I will start with your recommendation. Im assuming that i will be dosing the dry amounts straight into the aquarium? Is it preferable to mix with some water or simply throw it straight in?
> 
> ...


It doesn't matter, you can dose it dry or mix it up in a little bit of tap water. I used an old rubbermaid container with a lid in the past to add my ferts. I put the ferts in the container, added some tank water, shook it up and poured it in. I know a lot of folks also add them dry so whichever you prefer.

The advice and the link to Chuck's Calculator that upikabu gave you is good info also. Just try not to make things too complicated at first though. Once you get some good results if you are curious as to why, then you can start goin into more depth with Chuck's calculator, making up liquid solutions, etc.


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## AQUAMX (Jan 24, 2005)

Thank you Matt and Upikabu

I think i will start off with Matts recomendations. Its very daunting at first but im excited at the same time. One thing i have overlooked is iron. Should i buy some in liquid or dry form and whats the ideal level for a heavily planted tank. Its a 4x2x2 with large swords so iron uptake is high.

Thanks guys this is really helping me out greatly. 

Brad


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

For heavy root feeders like swords you'd probably be better off with an iron-rich root tab. I have very good experience with the Seachem root tabs.


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Depending on what "micro" fertilizer you use, you may or may not need to add additional iron. I have used Plantex CSM+B for a couple of years and not added any additional iron. I recently switched to Seachem's Flourish for micros and find that my Limnophila aromatica looks better with the addition of supplemental iron.

An easy way to keep an eye on iron levels is to use a "faster growing" plant such as Dwarf Sag, Mayaca fluviatilis, some Hygro species or Limnophila aromatica (L. sessifloria also). These plants will show "pale growth (lack of color) on the new leaves when iron is low. The addition of some iron when this is noticed will give the plant it's color back. Again, the ideal level of iron is what will keep good color in your plants. Plants are one of our best test kits 

Root tabs can also be used but I have to admit I have not used them for years even with Cryptocorynes (said to be heavy root feeders) in an inert sand substrate. If you decide to use root tabs, make sure you bury them deep in the substrate and be careful to keep them buried when uprooting plants. Some root tabs contain ammoniacal nitrogen or urea which can lead to outbreaks of green water and other types of algae.


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

The nice thing about the Seachem root tabs IME is that they break down very slowly. Even after over a month, they still retain most of the original shape and do not cloud the water if accidentally uprooted. Some others I've used did release a cloud of white dust if disturbed after a short time.


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## AQUAMX (Jan 24, 2005)

I cant thank you guys enough. Matt your advice is really good especially, i feel embaressed asking you questions. Thank you again i appreciate it greatly guys.

Brad


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

AQUAMX said:


> I cant thank you guys enough. Matt your advice is really good especially, i feel embaressed asking you questions. Thank you again i appreciate it greatly guys.
> 
> Brad


Please don't feel embarrassed, everyone has been new at something at one time or another. It is good that you ask the questions! I imagine there are others out there with the same questions but were too embarrassed to ask. By you asking the questions, you have helped them out too


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Hi AQUAMX
It can not get any easier then with PPS. No blind guess work and no risk. 
First, find your tap NO3, PO4, KH, Ca and Mg levels. Then we will find you the fertilizer recipe you need. The system is precisely customized to your specific needs turning it into a simple dosing routine with minimum work load. 

Please see attached example of your 100 gallon aquarium.


Thank you
Edward


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