# Question on water changes.



## bmedeiros678 (Mar 26, 2007)

I understand that one of the benefits of el natural is not to have to change the water frequently. When do I stop changing the water? Is it from day one? One month? 

Also, since the water I purchase is very soft I would like to raise the GH. Ph is around 7.2. What could I add to my canister to raise the GH? 
Thanks.


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## mudboots (Jun 24, 2009)

On the water changes, one mistake I made in the big tank was trying to beat green water by changing 100% and then some (siphon going out the window with the water hose coming in, and just adding conditioner as needed). While the water cleared up fantastically (duh) the problems would surface after a couple of days or so. The problem was that I kept removing all of the biology that was trying to get established. That tank had been a headache since, and it was just recently that I realized what I was doing.

My other two NPT's (both much smaller) have never had such problems because 1)I didn't attempt a rescape post set up, and 2)I never removed the biological components that were trying to get established. On these two I had been doing 50% changes once a week as needed to combat ugly water, but only had to do this twice so far because they are kind of taking care of themselves now. I imagine I will at least give a 50% change each one to two months, though it really just depends. If everything looks healthy after 3 months, then there's really no need to mess with it.

As a side note, the other two tanks started with a leg up, as I included water from the big tank (algae and all). I even had a bout of staghorn in the 10, but even after leaving some of it on the plants after removing most, it is gone (otos are nice additions).

I guess I kind of went on a rambling spree, but the point I'm trying to make is not to over manage the tank as it settles in. Patience will pay off in the end.


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

I change 50% water on my daughters El Natural about every month or two, sometimes three months inbetween. I can't really describe it, but the water just gets "a look" to it and I know it's time to freshen up. 

If I do a major trim, I'll do a 25% change.


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## bartoli (May 8, 2006)

All my NPTs have the same water since day one - never a water change. I just top up every so often.


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Let your test kit be your guide. Conditions should be stable in the tank. A small change in the test results might alert you to something going on that a water change can help. If your tap water is good as is, or you can filter it or add minerals to make it similar to the tank you can do larger water changes if this is necessary. If the water you have is significantly different than the water in the tank (especially if it is softer) do smaller water changes more frequently. 

If you are starting a tank by splitting some of the parts (Filter media, substrate, plants, driftwood...) from an established tank monitor the conditions, and you may find you can go with fewer water changes from the start. 

If you are starting a tank with all new, sterile everything then the tank needs to grow a pretty large population of microorganisms, and this may take from a month to several months. If you can get some filter media or something else from an established tank this will jump start the growth of many things, and it will happen faster.


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## Dustymac (Apr 26, 2008)

I want to second bartoli's comments. I have four NPTs and two haven't had a water change in over a year. For the other two, it's been at least four or five months. These tanks are very healthy with good plant growth, little algae and some of the fauna are over three years old.

I think it's OK to change your water during the startup of a NPT - it will remove nutrients that can nourish algae - but once the plants are growing and the substrate is stable, water changing is purely optional. And if your replacement water is laden with algae nutrients, water changes can actually cause more problems than they fix. For instance, our tap water comes from artesian wells and is full of silicates which happen be necessary for diatom growth. 

Jim


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## bmedeiros678 (Mar 26, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies. Seems like the water gets an "aged" look, almost a brownish tinge. All the inhabitants look happy. I am loving this tank!!


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## Perianth (Mar 17, 2009)

Water that is too discolored will reduce the light intensity that plants need. The instructions I remember and followed included changing say 80% the first day if the water is discolored, and repeat as necessary. If the water is very discolored, this should be done while the tank only has a few inches of water on start up. I believe it is also good to use activated charcoal initially and replace in three weeks. Sounds like you have a good tank there since you're happy with it. There are several posts on this site about raising GH, but I haven't seen any mention of what product to use that would not have some other additives (also what to use depends on relative amount of KH).


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## bmedeiros678 (Mar 26, 2007)

Perianth said:


> Water that is too discolored will reduce the light intensity that plants need. The instructions I remember and followed included changing say 80% the first day if the water is discolored, and repeat as necessary. If the water is very discolored, this should be done while the tank only has a few inches of water on start up. I believe it is also good to use activated charcoal initially and replace in three weeks. Sounds like you have a good tank there since you're happy with it. There are several posts on this site about raising GH, but I haven't seen any mention of what product to use that would not have some other additives (also what to use depends on relative amount of KH).


Thanks for the info. After I read your reply I realized that my charcoal is just over three weeks old. I just put a new bag in there. I am hoping I do not have to change the water...


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

bmedeiros678 said:


> Thanks for the info. After I read your reply I realized that my charcoal is just over three weeks old. I just put a new bag in there. I am hoping I do not have to change the water...


The soil leaching of tannins, which produces the brown-colored water, is usually just a "start up" problem.
As the soil settles down, this should become less of a problem and reduce the need for water changes and/or charcoal filtration.


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

I use Seachem Equilibribrium to raise the GH in my hard water tanks. This also has several of the 'hard water nutrients' as well as the Ca and Mg that will show up on the GH test. Dissolve it in the tank water. 

For something to add to the filter, you could add coral sand or oystershell grit that is sold for caged birds. The finer, sand-like size will dissolve faster, giving you a faster change. (Sold for Budgies and similar small birds). Coarser material, sold for chickens will dissolve slower.

Test any of these in a bucket to be sure how much to use.


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## bmedeiros678 (Mar 26, 2007)

Diana K said:


> I use Seachem Equilibribrium to raise the GH in my hard water tanks. This also has several of the 'hard water nutrients' as well as the Ca and Mg that will show up on the GH test. Dissolve it in the tank water.
> 
> So the Seachem Equilibrium will turn my soft water into hard water? Any side effects? What is a good GH for the tank?


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

bmedeiros678 said:


> So the Seachem Equilibrium will turn my soft water into hard water? Any side effects? What is a good GH for the tank?


Equilibrium has too many sulfates. These sulfates will be converted to H2S in NPTs with organic soils. H2S strongly inhibits plant growth.

Here is link to procedure for increasing GH without adding a ton of sulfates:

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/29062-calcium-dosing-procedure.html

Main thing: you want to use calcium choride (instead of calcium sulfate) to provide calcium. Calcium chloride is ideal: it won't increase pH (like calcium carbonates); it won't add sulfates to your NPT (like calcium sulfates).

Calcium chloride can be purchased as a "de-icer".


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