# My El Natural Soilmaster variant experiment



## Jane in Upton (Aug 10, 2005)

Hi Folks,

well, a few weeks ago I tore down my old 30 gal Quackenbush style setup (deep kitty litter clay substrate w/ slow release ferts, capped by fine sand). It did nicely for about 2+ years, but growth had become miserable, and from the colors I was seeing in the clay layer, there were several pockets that had become anoxic. This was confirmed when I tore it down. What a project!

I've re-created this tank as an El Natural variant. I used the recommended 1.5 inches of low organics topsoil, but rather than using a coarse sand for the top 1.5", I used Soilmaster Select. This is a high fired clay product, of fairly uniform size, and high, high porosity. Its used as a turf amendment to increase aeration and absorb excess moisture. The technical specs on the product say its on par with granite bits in terms of physical breakdown wear and tear, but can absorb 7 times its weight in water! This much surface area gives it a ton of CEC and places to colonize bacteria. Lots of folks have had difficulties with it being very "lightweight" so after rinsing it until my patience wore out a few weeks ago, I let it sit in a bucket of dechlorinated water, to try to get saturated. It IS chemically inert, but has been used in lieu of Flourite or EcoComplete by others who use water column fertilizing techniques. I researched it's use on the Science of Substrate forums, as well as elsewhere online. It seems to promote aeration and exchange, and avoids compaction. Also, someone was using Shultz's Aquatic Plant Soil, which is a similar high fired clay product (basically ceramic) and found excellent root growth on their plants. 

Last summer, I used it insead of perlite (usually used to add porosity) in my terrarium mix for some rare (terrestrial) begonias, and had excellent results! These terrarium plants are borderline on being epiphytic, and they really liked this extra loose mix.

So I finally took the plunge and used it as the "inert gravel" for my Soil Underlayer. So far, I'm really pleased! I'm running a 40w T-12 and a 32 w T-8 over it, in an older, VERY inefficient dual flourescent strip light. Although its mathmatically 2.4 wpg, my guess is that its well under 2, as the bulbs are essentially crammed into a three sided box. Fish stocking is moderate, with a half dozen Amano shrimp and three Ghost shirmp, and a smattering of Malaysian Trumpet Snails and some plain brown ramshorns. I'm trying to keep the Physa type snails out of this tank. I planted VERY heavily - not more than an inch and a half in any direction w/o something planted, even if I don't intend to keep it there in the long run. I crammed as much plant matter in there as I could and a bunch of black worms for the fish to find while I was away for the holidays. (yeah, I know, not the best timing).

New setup and plantings went in on 12/21/06.

Pleasant Surprises so far have included Didiplis Diandra, which usually grows, but pretty slowly in my low tech setups. This is the fastest growth (in a non CO2 environment) I've seen! Also, some Heteranthera zosterifolia which had been lingering, "planted" in sand in a container in a sunny room, looked pathetic when I planted it, so I didn't expect much. Its grown so nicely that I cut off the new growth and replanted that. Only two larger crypts I transplanted from other tanks experienced significant melt, and the othersmaller ones already snapped back and are putting out new growth. I plopped a few strands of glosso in on a whim, and when I came back after the holidays, it already had 3" worth of runners striking out in several directions. Faster than what I'm used to in a NPT. Bylxa japonica is doing really well, and looking underneath the bottom glass of the tank, I can see its group of roots. I'd also put in several types of Hygro, and while they're typically "easy", their growth is also more than I'm used to - I'm going to have to trim in a couple of weeks! I'm not used to having to trim, LOL!

The one weird thing is Cyperus helferi. All of the older, long leaves got BBA on the edges, so I trimmed them out. New growth is very short. I wonder if this is a light issue? More than a year ago, I got some C. helferi, and it was medium length. In my tank, it stayed short, and sent out lots of daughter plants. I was always surprised when hearing how tall C. helferi is. I wondered if I got a dwarf variety, as the stock I got had been brought in to a LFS by Karen Randall, of AGA fame. I just assumed it was a variant. I lost it over the summer (several tanks suffered during an absence). But now this one is coming in looking like the one I used to have. It seems healthy, and robust, but very, very short. I don't know if its the lighting, or perhaps the substrate? The ones I got were from a fellow club member who grows with lots of light, ferts and CO2. If they stay short, so much for my background, *grin*. 

So far, the only algae of note has been on the C. helferi leaves, and some green dust and green spot here and there. *knock on wood* I keep waiting for the eruption. But, I'm wondering at the growth rates - was there a lot of nutrients in the water column because of the porosity of the top gravel layer? It it the CEC? I'm really pleased, but quite surprised. It already looks like time to cull out the Najas guadalupensis, remove some of the Hygro and start to think about trimming the D. diandra. Usually an NPT will just putter along. If this is stable (ie, the whole thing doesn't just collapse in the next few weeks) I'd certainly do this technique again. 

Experimenting is good. Granted, I've had some absolute disasters, but now and then, a really good outcome!
-Jane


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## hooha (Apr 21, 2005)

Thanks for the info, this is my planned setup some time down the line when I have the time.


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## Kelley (Aug 27, 2006)

Thanks for the information, Jane. I have my tank set up with SMS charcoal as a substrate. Once it is thougoughly saturated with water, it really holds plants in well. Even HC! For my next tank, I am thinking of trying potting soil under the SMS. El Natural is such a fascination way of doing a tank.


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

Settled Soilmaster does hold plants surprisingly well considering how light it feels. If you are able to come to the next NEAPS meeting bring a sample of you water and I'll test it for NO3, PO4, etc. Seems like there could be a lot of reasons, nutrient/setup speaking for the good growth.

I would be interested to know how much is from the water column vs. substrate. What brand of topsoil did you use? Have you used it before?

Whatever the reason, I'm glad it is working out well so far. Hope you continue to have success with this tank. BTW, if you got that _C. helferi_ from me, then it is certainly not a dwarf version


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## Muirner (Jan 9, 2007)

When you say you "washed it" how do you "wash" the soil. I've done searching but just dont come up with the answer. Also you used the Soilmaster as a topping to your substrate? Total depth of the two combined should be ______ ??? is it 1.5" of each or?


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

Muirner,

1.5" for each for a 3" total substrate depth. 

Washing the Soilmaster is easy enough, fill a 5gal bucket about half full of the stuff and using a garden hose on about 1/2 water pressure, swirl and move the hos eend through the substrate in the bucket. Let the water move the stuff around and you can easily push the hose all the way to the bottom of the bucket. 5-10 minutes or this should yield very clean water.

If you want to know how to wash the soil(dirt) then you will need some warmth and sunny days. I don't believe it is necessary but I am not a big follower of the natural technique. AaronT has a very good post of how he washed it in his thread "El natural with a twist". Basically, get the soil wet and soupy, spread the mud on a tarp or something to dry in the sun for a couple days, wet it again and let dry... Do this 3 times. Your not washing it but trying to force any organic matter to turn to ammonia (by wetting) and then evaporating off in the sun.

Hope that helps answer you questions!


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Jane, that is a very interesting post. I am thinking more and more about switching my tank to a lower growth system, and yours seems promising. Right now I have my nano chugging along, growing steadily and slowly, and I enjoy not having to worry about weekly maintenance on it. As I get older I'm sure doing weekly maintenance will become less enjoyable, not that I have a ball doing it now. And, I already use the SM, so I have that. Getting some dirt shouldn't be much of a job. Please, keep us informed about how this works out.


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## Kelley (Aug 27, 2006)

I actually didn't even rinse my SMS, on the advice of mod MatPat. I just filled the tank real slow and it was fine once my filter ran for a couple of hours.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

I'm curious on the progress of your tank Jane? I thought of doing my soil setups this same way. I went with the T-grade colorquartz in my tanks, but I might give this a try down the road sometime.


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## Jane in Upton (Aug 10, 2005)

Hi all,

well, growth has slowed a bit, but is still pretty impressive for a NPT! Dennis tested my water, and here are the results:

NO3- 44-53mg/l
PO4- 0.6mg/l
Alk- 0 degrees
Gh- ~8 degrees
Ca ++ 30mg/l
Mg ++ 16mg/l

Oh, and from my own testing, the pH is surprisingly stable at ~6.7-6.8. 

I've been reading other posts about SMS and Low to ZERO alkalinity. This is certainly happening in my tank. BUT.... the fish are in fine shape (my Angelfish just spawned on a Lagenandra leaf, but I think they're both female - the eggs are gone and the other one's looking ripe now) and the plants are apparently getting what they need. I've added some trace element concoction at 1/2 the "initial" doseage. 

Oh, Muirnier, I answered your PMs, but I'll repeat it here. I washed the SMS, and just aired out the soil. I did mix in about 1/3 of a soil which I had previously relegated to houseplant use, considering it too rich for an NPT. Also, I aired out both of these soils for several weeks before using them. I am convinced this is a very important step!

I would wash the SMS, even though its kind of a pain. I used the same technique Dennis does, but with less patience as it was 50* outside and getting dark out. I'd rinse about 2-3 cups at a time in a bucket. I never got completely clear water during the blasting/stirring, but got it to the point where it settled to clear within a few seconds. I figure, if Porosity and Surface Area is it's big selling point, getting the dust out would maximize these both.

Dennis and I have been discussing the reasons for the ZERO alkalinity. He also cautioned me to keep an eye on the pH. The cations (+ ions) adsorb to the surfaces of the SMS. This eventually stabilizes with water changes and the accumulation of mulm, bacteria and other biological goodies. He's postulated that the folks who have NOT had this Alkalinity sink condition were those who fertilized heavily at the outset, possibly "filling" the sites on the SMS with K+ ions, which he said have very strong affinity, as well as being small. By Quenching the SMS adsorption sites, the difference in K+ would probably go undetected, and allow the eventual equilibrium with different cations to evolve more slowly. 

But, the plants are still growing nicely - the initial "flush" of growth seems to be over with, but the rate is still more productive than I'm used to. My other tanks, with soil and coarse sand are different - they have readable alkalinity. In the SMS/soil tank, one plant is now unhappy - a bacopa, something 'pink'. (I'd have to get my notes downstairs). Its putting out growth very slowly, and has algae. Its getting squished between the expanding D. diandra and the robust Hygro 'Tiger'. I may pull it out and replace it with something else.

Oh, and the C. helferi (yes, its from your stock, Dennis!) is still short and happy. It does not appear to have gotten any taller, and I've had to trim/replant the D. diandra to keep it from getting shaded. I'm baffled by that one.

I'm going to see about borrowing a friend's camera. I really want to document this thing!
-Jane


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## Tony65 (Jun 3, 2006)

How's this doing now, Jane?

I've been inspired by your experiment and am planning to try ADA Aquasoil as the cap in a 30cm square nano (I can't find Soilmaster here in the UK).


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