# Newbie needs HELP !!!



## CountryCowfreak (Jan 31, 2007)

Hello all. Boy howdy, do I need some assistance. I have two problems: 1) an algal smorgasbord run amuck, and 2) a planted tank that is out of balance. I would like some feedback/advice/instruction on how to get this algae thing more under control, and also on how to keep it that way--see below.

Tank information: 36g bowfront, freshwater;ECO/fluorite mix substr; 4x18W T5,[email protected]/day; planted w/mixed swords (chains,melon,bleheri,etc.); [email protected] dose, no others; fish-15 neons,3 cory cats,3 otos; water-pH=6.8,ammonia=0,NO2=0,NO3=0; filtration by 1 Marineland Millenium 2000 + 1 Tetra Whisper 30-both set for moderately high circulation (approx. 270 gph total).

Remarks re. problem #1: I have ID'd 4-5 different algaes growing. I am presently treating large outbreak of blue-green w/erythromycin with success; however, beard is taking its place as fast as the b-g is dying. There's also brown, green beard present.

My question is: How best to get the existing algae reduced and/or even eliminated? I have been reading up on using Excel or H2O2. Manual removal is an option, although some radical pruning of the chain swords is involved. Ideas, strategies, thoughts -- all welcome!

Remarks re. problem #2: The cause behind the effects. Here I am not sure where to begin. I have not been using ferts because I had the impression that too much nutrient in the water column would result in algae (!). Research--and current experience--suggest that ferts are needed, so I am thinking of adopting the PPS-Pro approach.

I would appreciate some suggestions regarding what I can do for my tank now in order to begin the balancing process. Suggestions regarding how to keep it that way are also welcomed. And, since I don't understand the principles involved in balancing a freshwater planted tank yet, some guidance in helping me educate myself--e.g. required reading--would be quite useful!

Thanks in advance to all respondents. Hope everyone has a good holiday weekend. Travel safely. Peace.


----------



## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Too much ferts in the water can cause algae, so can too little. This looks to be your problem with 0 nitrates. You want to keep your N03 at 10ppm and P04 (phosphates) around 1ppm. 

I would first do a 50% water change, remove as much algea by hand as possible and reduce your light down to 8 hours daily for 2 weeks. Then start dosing Seachem Flourish, nitrogen & phosphorous. Start with half the dosage and work your way up from there.

Also the addition of C02 would help with your algea woes greatly.


----------



## CountryCowfreak (Jan 31, 2007)

Hi Trena,
Thanks for getting back to me. The Maracyn treatment is about complete and I will do the water change this weekend. I have few questions re. your reply. Should I wait 2 weeks before I start adding ferts? I have been using Excel daily at the recommended rate to supply carbon. Would a CO2 bubble system be better?


----------



## Nevermore (Mar 26, 2007)

You need to start dosing ferts; if your plants aren't happy, algae will take over. Plants need the fertilization, if you wait 2 weeks you'll just be worse off. 

You also need potassium. You can get Seachem potassium and follow the dosing directions on the bottle to start.

How heavily planted is your tank? You want a good biomass of plants in there.

Focus less on the algae and more on the plants. When the plants are thriving, the algae problem takes care of itself.


----------



## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Yes, a C02 system is much better for the plants then just using Excel. You could do a DIY system or buy a system like the RedSea one.

Nevermore already answered your fert dosing question.


----------



## CountryCowfreak (Jan 31, 2007)

Thanks Nevermore and Trena. I completed that 50% water change and my tank sure looks better, but yeah, the algae aren't wastin' any time.

Nevermore, my tank seems to be fairly well-planted, to me at least. I have 3-4 narrow leaf chain swords, two small broad leaf chain swords, a melon sword, an amazon sword, and three other unidentified sword plants which should become larger along the lines of the amazon plant.

I have a bottle of Seachem Flourish that I have begun using. N-P-K ratios are 0.7-0.01-0.37. Will this provide enough potassium? Also, I have been reading in the forums and have come across things like PMDD and a method called PPS-Pro. Any thoughts on these topics?

Trena, thanks for adding the links. I actually have a DIY CO2 system--a Nutrafin, with the plastic "zig-zag" diffuser--but I have yet to install it. I had opted to go with Excel because it is not supposed to affect pH. Do you know if a CO2 system of DIY scale is likely to create any pH control issues, or necessitate increases in light level?

Nevermore, Trena - Again, thank you both for your help. I hope you are enjoying the Memorial Day weekend!


----------



## Nevermore (Mar 26, 2007)

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.

Flourish supplies your micro elements. They are telling you how much N, P, and K is in there but it is not intended to supply the required amounts of these elements. They need to be added.

PMDD and PPS-Pro are both dosing strategies; there are a number of dosing strategies out there, you need to settle on one that fits in with your tank, your objectives and your lifestyle.

You could go to DIY CO2 without having to increase your light. It will lower the pH a little.

How is the algae?


----------



## Turbosaurus (May 24, 2006)

Nevermore- CountryCowFreak is dosing flourish EXCEL (for available carbon), not flourish (for trace). 

Hook up the CO2 and don't worry about the PH. On a fermentation system (as opposed to pressurized) you won't get concentrations high enough to hurt anything. I run 2x 2 liter bottles on a soft water 20 gallon with no ill effects. PH swings caused by CO2 do no effect fish the same way as swings created by adding chemical acids or bases to the tank. 

I would suggest you add some potassium and some trace (micros). I would NOT dose nitrate and phosphate yet. I am probably in the minority on that suggestion, but I suggest it because you have slow growing swords in the tank and a heavy bioload, you likely have plenty of nitrate and phosphate produced from fish waste, but your plants can't use them without the other necessary elements. 

You have a low light tank with slow growing plants, search the low tech forums for dosing schedules that have worked for other members or look into PPS dosing. 

Spot treating with Excel has worked for me in killing BBA. Hydrogen peroxide did nothing IME.


----------

