# Questions for First Timer



## psusaxman2000 (Dec 22, 2009)

After spending over a week just scanning the net for information, ever decent link that I've found has referenced some forum on this site. As I have with most things I want to do, I've found myself engrossed day and night looking for information an answers to get things done the right way the first time through.

I'm looking to convert my 55 gallon tank into a planted aquarium (after the new year). Currently there are only 4 fish (1 blue gourami, 2 neons and 1 tiger barb). 

I just purchased a T5 HO system that, when finished, will have 2 - 10000K and 2 - 6700K bulbs. Based on some of the other threads, most people seem to recommend about 2 wpg. At this configuration, I would have 4 wpg. Is it smarter (since I have a dual switch unit) to put one of each bulb on each switch and just run have power?

My second piece at the moment is that I do not have a CO2 either. Again with other threads, the higher the lighting, the more CO2. I'm looking at getting a injection system, but since I don't know to much, I don't want to be thrown around. The lfs that I use is about 2 hours from my place so I don't have the convenience of just stopping in.

My final piece is with my substrate. In the past I had played around with minimal plants, so I currently have a little florite base mixed with standard gravel. I'm thinking it would be best to just replace the whole base and start over. That being the case, should I drain the tank and move the fish to a 10 gallon, and cycle my 55 back up?

All help is much appreciated and enjoy the holidays.

Kenny


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## mudboots (Jun 24, 2009)

If you opt for the reduced lighting and decide not to inject CO2 you will want to pour through the threads and posts in the El Natural forum or just choose plants that do not require CO2 (check out the PlantFinder link in the yellow bar at the top of the page or ask around).

With T5-HO lighting, even 2 wpg is pretty significant, so look very carefully into CO2, fertilizer dosing, plant requirements, et cetera before making a concrete decision. 

On the substrate, ADA Aquasol is pricey but very nice regarding root development and plant acclimation, but there are tons of options. Personally, I use an organic substrate capped with black diamond brand blasting material in my three small tanks, and organic substrate capped with a sand and gravel mix in the big tank. I am borrowing a picotope for an experiment that has the Aquasoil in it and I am pretty impressed, though I am not about to rip out what I've got just to change substrate.

Another consideration is whether you want something you can rescape in the future or you want to set it up and leave it alone. NPT (El Natural) does not really allow for this due to nutrient release when moving plants...

Happy hunting through the forums, 

Darren


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

First - :welcome: to APC! There is much experience here. If one person doesn't know the answer to your questions another will.

I vote for ADA substrate. I have it in most of my tanks. The plants love it. They grows like crazy. There is an ammonia spike that last quite a while in the beginning but if you stuff it, (and I mean STUFF it) with plants and do water changes you won't be algae. 

I do have mineralized top soil in my shrimp tank. The shrimp are doing great but the plants just don't have enough nutrients to grow. Since I can't dose ferts because of my shrimp I'm going to have to be content wit mosses and other less nutrient hogging plants. This is ok with me. Adjustments have to be made with a substrate that does not have nutrients. 

I would only run 2 of your lights at a time. You can put all four in, just use one circuit. You might try a small (1 hour) midday sun burst but wait til your tank has cycled. You should start out with maybe 6 hours of light and increase as you watch for algae. 9-10 is max. If you want it on while you are home many people take a siesta or start the light late, so they can have the tank lit while they are there.

I believe with that much light you are gonna need CO2 or some sort of carbon supplement. There are many different systems out there. Some go with their CO2 on a timer, others use a solenoid with a pH indicator. Some, with smaller tanks use DIY. 

Good luck in your new endeavor.


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## mudboots (Jun 24, 2009)

psusaxman2000 said:


> ...I just purchased a T5 HO system that, when finished, will have 2 - 10000K and 2 - 6700K bulbs...
> Kenny


Kenny, Just another lighting note; you may notice a lot of green output using that combination. Some folks really like this, some don't...be sure to compare some graphs to make sure you're getting what you want in the lighting...

Darren


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## jas1w124 (Dec 18, 2009)

I have the same light setup and if you want to start lower tech then just use the two 6700's and have flourish excel on hand to substitute for co2 (it is a source of carbon), avoid dosing until you notice signs of stunted growth and deficiency until you get the hang of it. But I am still figuring it out too. I would suggest it would be best to replace the substrate, move the fish using the old substrate and a ten gallon, the 55 should cycle quickly if you keep the filter running. Also look into the t5 HO plant grow bulbs that emit more of the red and blue spectrum which is most of what plants absorb to grow according to experts(newt).


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## mudboots (Jun 24, 2009)

jas1w124 said:


> ...Also look into the t5 HO plant grow bulbs that emit more of the red and blue spectrum which is most of what plants absorb to grow according to experts(newt).


Right on! One such bulb that I have recently converted to that gives the best of both worlds (plant usable plus pleasing to the eyes) is the Geissman powerchrome Midday in T5-HO. So many options, so little space in the house for aquariums...what to do, what to do...


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

If you already have a certain amount of Flourite substrate you might want to sift through it to remove most of the gravel, and just buy enough Flourite to bring it up to around 2" or so. Get some other opinions, but you might also add a THIN layer of Laterite under the Flourite. The layering would be:
Bottom: Laterite (Good source of iron)
Middle: New Flourite
Top: Old (cycled) flourite. This will release the least nutrients into the water column, and has a certain amount of established nitrifying bacteria to jump start the cycle in the new set up. 
(As the set up ages, and you move plants around it is OK to mix up the old and new Flourite, but be careful not to dig down into the Laterite)

Here is how I would do this:
BEFORE:
Thorough vacuum and filter cleaning in the couple of weeks before the major change. Really try hard to get rid of a lot of the organic waste that may be accumulating in the current substrate. Clean the filter a couple of times. It will be filling up with debris with each gravel vacuum. Then let it run for at least a week without disturbing it. Let the bacteria in the filter recover. 
Get the plants, buckets and new substrate ready. 
(If you are ordering plants ahead of time you could keep them for a day or so in the 10 gallon tank)

DAY OF THE CHANGE
Siphon clean water into a bucket for the fish, and, if the 10 is ready, move them right over. Keep plenty of plants in there, too. Save existing plants (if any). The 10 gallon does not have to be cycled. An air bubbler might be all the water movement it needs for the couple of hours it takes. Do add a heater, though, to keep the water temperature stable. 
Decor, equipment. Keep these things damp. They all have some nitrifying bacteria. 
Remove the old substrate:
If there is mostly gravel visible at the top, then skim this and put it in a mesh bag, or nylon stocking. The upper layer of substrate is where the most bacteria is, it thrives in areas with plenty of water movement. 
Sift the rest of the substrate through a screen that might be 1/4" mesh. Anything that passes through (Flourite, sand, or small gravel) is fine in the new substrate. Do not wash with chlorinated water. You can rinse with used tank water. Larger gravel can be used for accents, such as a gravel path between planted hills. Keep the Flourite and gravel being re-used damp. 
Rinse the tank. If there is any algae on the glass, now is an easy time to remove it. 
Add the new substrate, driftwood, rocks... make hills and valleys...
If you are using gravel in the new set up, then you can put the bacteria-rich gravel in the tank where it will not be too deeply buried. (The bacteria needs a good water movement to bring it oxygen)
Add just barely enough water to dampen the substrate. 
Plant, misting the plants as needed. (A lot)
Add more water, pouring it in over a plate or a plastic bag. Allow the water to run in slowly so that it does not disturb the substrate. There will be the least clouding this way. 
Set up the equipment, plug it in, turn it on and make sure it is all functioning again. 
If you did not use the bacteria-rich gravel yet, hang it in the tank where it will have good contact with water movement. (Nylon stockings are not very strong, maybe hang several across the back of the aquarium, each with a handful or two of the saved gravel)
To boost the bacteria population you could add Dr Tim's One and Only or Tetra Safe Start. These products have the proper species of nitrifying bacteria that you may have lost in the transition. The few fish that you have, and the 'lots of plants' that you are adding might mean that it is OK to skip this step at this time. Or, get a bottle, and use perhaps 1/4 of it, keep the rest in the fridge. 
Put the fish back into the tank. 
Monitor the conditions (NH3/NH4, NO2, NO3) for a week or two, and be ready to do a water change, but it probably will not be needed. 
When you are sure things are stable, you can add more fish. 
I would add one of the bacterial additives at this time. Do not waste your money on other 'bacteria in a bottle' products. You are looking for _Nitrospiros sp._ of bacteria. If you are adding just a few fish at a time, then add a small amount of whichever additive you have, and store it in the fridge. Check the label, but I think they are good for 6 months or a year after opening, if kept refrigerated.


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## psusaxman2000 (Dec 22, 2009)

Jas/Mudboots,

Thanks for the in site on the lamps. I recently purchased a 4x54w T5 HO and it came with 2 10000k and 2 actinic bulbs. I wanted to change them out and my lfs had recommended the 6700k bulbs. Granted that was all they had too so there wasn't much to go with there. I'll definitely take a look a the other bulbs that you recommended as trial and error typically offer better advice anyway.

Diana,

Wow, thanks for the step by step plans. I definitely had a few ideas on how to get through this, but I'm sure I would have messed things up. 

I will be able to pull some of the flourite that I currently have out of the tank and use it for the new setup, but I definitely will not have enough. As for the full setup, you suggested a laterite base and then the flourite top. How thick should the laterite be on the base? Are we saying 1/2 - 1 inch laterite and then the full flourite top to make the landscape?

My next general question comes to filtration. I have an old tetra wisper hanging filter, but it's about 5 years old and is starting to crap out I think. I've started looking around for a canister filter and am looking at a Filstar or Eheim. Thoughts and suggestions? 

Also what would be the best way to switch out the filter to maximize the bacterial benefits?


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