# What should I be dosing for ferts?



## fraynes1 (Mar 4, 2005)

I have a 75 gal. heavily planted tank, mostly lots of stem plants like polysperma, repens etc..

PH 6.6 before lights on 6.8 just before lights out.
KH 80 ppm
GH 100
Nitrates 10-15ppm

Lighting
110 w cf
32 w Normal FL's

3-3 1/2" of eco -complete

This is what I have for fertilizers:
Seachem Phosphorus
Seachem Florish
Seachem Iron
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Sulfate
Epsom Salts which I don't add due to high GH

How much and how often should I be adding the above?

Note: will be ordering KH2PO4 when I run out of Seachem Phosphorus

I have been battling a slight green water issue, and only other algae is green algae growing on bottowm leaves of Repens.

Thanks


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## Plattykins (Apr 3, 2005)

Starting with the green water...

I have read a couple of articles where one says excessive nitrates and the other, excessive light is the cause of green water. Regardless, increasing the number of water changes... perhaps more frequent, in smaller amounts, along with restricting the amount of light will help solve the problem. Once that is resolved, you can start thinking about ferts. My point is... slow and easy, one thing at a time. :smile:

http://www.brooklands.co.nz/tropical/water.htm (you have to scroll down a bit to get to the green water section.. or just do a search on the page).


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## Simpte 27 (Jul 16, 2004)

I was under the impression that waterchanges are a no-no when dealing with greenwater. I am on my 3rd day of a blackout with little to no effects on greenwater. I will try a UV light or Diatom filter when I return from the Chicago Bullshooter tournament.


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## Plattykins (Apr 3, 2005)

If you prefer another approach and light reduction is not working for you, how about this link? It is not as expesive as the diatom filter or UV lighting. Interestingly, this article concurs with your statement regarding water changes. Personally, I don't care for a chemical approach, but if you have a severe problem, perhaps it is best in your situation. I am not sure a filter is the answer though, since there is too much of something that needs to be adjusted down.

http://www.algone.com/greenwater.htm


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

With those parameters of KH and pH I assume you're adding CO2?

If so, the first thing to do is try to get your CO2 concentration up to 30mg/l during the entire light period. Currently you are down to 21mg/l by the end of your light period.

21mg/l is not bad... a consistent 30mg/l is much better.

Keep in mind that excess of a fert isn't really an issue. The bigger danger is *too little* of one of the ferts (including carbon).

As to the ferts, I'm not familiar enough with the Seachem line to give good advice. Maybe someone else can chime in here?


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## Simpte 27 (Jul 16, 2004)

I'm thinking I may need to dose PO4 (haven't had to in the past). Will have to get another PO4 test kit as mine isn't giving accurate readings.


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## chiahead (Dec 18, 2004)

From what I understand the green water is set off by an excess of NH4 and higher light. Once it sets in u must use a diatom, micron, or UV filtration. I just recently had a few fish deaths I didnt see and I had green water until I ran my micron for 3-4 days. Now its much better, and I didnt change any lighting or ferts.


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## fraynes1 (Mar 4, 2005)

I'm not sure if I was clear or not about my question. 

I believe my green water was due to putting on a Rena Filstar XP3, filter to replace a fluval 304. I took all of the bio balls out of Fluval putting in Filstar which probably caused an ammonia spike which brought on green water. The green water I can handle I have a diatom filter to remove it.

My question is according to Tom Barr's EI how much and how often do I dose each of the above mentioned fert's?


Thanks in advance.


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

Add:

More CO2
I use dry ferts, they are ridicousely cheaper and available and standized the world over ands extremely easy to use.

I would add:
1/2 teaspoon no more than 2x a week of KNO3
1/8 teaspoon, slightly less of KH2PO4
10mls of traces 2-3x a week

Weekly water change

You will want to clean out the GW first, blackout might do it with this low light.

Bend reflectors outward, raise the lights up if possible for now.
Your cause/conclusion sounds correct.

In the future, always do a large water change after such changes or substrate disturbances.

Add as much dirt from the old filter to the new filter.
The concern here is a GW outbreak that is harder to get rid of.
You might be able to water change it and blackout the tank for 3-4 days.
I'd do two or three back to back water changes, say 80% or more, then the blackout. Add ferts after 3rd water changes and blackout.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## fraynes1 (Mar 4, 2005)

Thanks for everyones replies. 

I followed Laith's advice on upping my co2 to 30ppm, and actually am about 34ppm and within 3 hours tank has cleared considerably.

Thanks Plantbrain for the instruction, the only thing is I don't have dry phosphate powder YET. I am using Seachem Phosphorus, and for my tank I need 60 ml to bring it up to 1ppm.

This is what I dosed of that this week:

Monday 50% w/c added 30 ml of Seachem Phosphorus which should be 0.5ppm

Wednesday added 10ml

Today took water sample to lfs where he has better testers than I did and he stated between 0.5-1ppm. So I thought on Day of w/c add 30ml, then 10 ml on day 3 and 5, and start over again on day 7 (day of w/c) sound correct?


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## fraynes1 (Mar 4, 2005)

Plantbrain is the 1/8 of a teaspoon of KH2PO4 just once a week?

And what about extra Iron or potassium?

This is a rough schedule I plan to follow, could you just check and see if I am on the right track?

Day 1
w/c add 1/2 teaspoon of KNO3, 60 ml Seachem Phosphate (for 1ppm), 1 teaspoon of Potassium Sulfate

Day 2
10ml Seachem Florish

Day 3
Nothing

Day 4
10 ml Florish, 1 teaspoon of Potassium Sulfate

Day 5
1/2 teaspoon of KNO3, 10 ml Phosphate

Day 6
10 ml Florish

Day 7
w/c and dose as per Day 1


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