# DIY Inline reactor plans



## Gomer

For those of you looking for DIY reactor plans, here is the parts list (should be self explainatory) for the many reactors that I have built.

Most of the parts can be found at Home Depot. I got some items at www.mcmaster.com such as the 3/4" barbs and clear tubing. The airline fitting and bioballs can be found at your LFS.


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## chuckeff

Instead of using bio balls, could you use another filler inside like whiffle-type balls? I have those handy :wink: Also, how big of an aquarium is this reactor good for? Thanks for putting the plans up.


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## Gomer

Not sure about the wiffle balls. The bio balls are just there for turbulence.

Not sure how big of a tank this is good for, but I would easily feel comfortable with it on a 100-150g tank...give that it can easily load up a 30g with CO2 without even blinking.

You could always make the clear section longer than 8" if you really want to.


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## gnatster

Great post, thanks for putting it up and making a sticky of it.


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## Laith

I assume the water input is at "J" with the "J" end placed at the top when the reactor is positioned vertically?


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## Gomer

Water input is at A and exits at J. water comes in the top and out the bottom.

The reactor goes vertical.


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## Nystina

I have to say that is the nicest DIY reactor i've ever seen! :lol: I was wondering if you place it on the intake side of the filter or the exhaust? (sounds like intake... but i just wanna be sure)
Thanks!
Nystina


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## Gomer

I place mine on the output side of my canister.

Glad you like it


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## kmurphy

That looks like a great reactor. I am currently planning my own DIY Co2 system and that reactor looks pretty simple to build. Do you use it with home made Co2 (yeast, sugar, water) or a Co2 tank.


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## Raul-7

Murphy, it won't make a difference what you use as your source for C02.


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## SAWALLACE

Anyone found a cost-effective alternative for the clear tube? It's $40 for an 8' section at mcmaster-carr. More than i can afford. I've looked around and the only thing i've found close is a clear mailing tube, but i don't know what it's made of and it seems a little flimsy. I also thought about buying a gravel vac and using that, but i'm looking for other suggestions if anyone has any.


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## skzzle

mcmaster is expensive for everything

www.savko.com has clear pvc for $6.08 per 5' sections. I have not placed the order yet so I really don't know about shipping.


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## Gomer

" Pipe is sold in 5 foot increments, price is listed as Price per Foot."

so 8' section at savko will run you $48.64 ..mcmaster is cheaper


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## skzzle

whoops, i didn't read close enough


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## trc_pdx

SAWALLACE said:


> Anyone found a cost-effective alternative for the clear tube? It's $40 for an 8' section at mcmaster-carr. More than i can afford. I've looked around and the only thing i've found close is a clear mailing tube, but i don't know what it's made of and it seems a little flimsy. I also thought about buying a gravel vac and using that, but i'm looking for other suggestions if anyone has any.


Aquatic Ecosystems sells it by the foot. Price depends on diameter.

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/7010/cid/1859


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## Gomer

www.usplastics.com also sells it by the foot.


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## www.glass-gardens.com

US Plastics has a 10' minimum, however they have never charged me extra for cutting it down into something that won't incur oversize charges.

I do have 1-1/2" PVC in stock at $0.45 per inch, shipping would be $3.99 for any length up to 1'. I don't have it listed on my site yet so if anyone wants some they can email me about it. We'll be adding a number of DIY parts to our offerings shortly though, sounded like a good idea from the number of people posting about where to get things.


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## inkslinger

check the yellow pages for a plastic suppler, local , i live in Mass and i found one in RI. 40 min ride fore me and, got a 2in x 12in of polycarbonated tubeing for $9.50 its stronger than pvc and it fits the 2in 3/4 reduce bushing perfect, it can also be drilled and tap for 1/8 brass or plastic hose barr for the co2 injection


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## SAWALLACE

After several failed attempts at cutting up a gravel vac and using that, i eliminated my headaches and went with plain white PVC. I also remembered that Gomer has a 29gal tank and a 8" tube is too short for my +-350gph filter, tiny co2 bubbles are spraying out of the spraybar, something to keep in mind if you try and tackle this project. I'll let you know if i figure out how long to make the tube for larger filters.


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## Gomer

Luckily that 8" tube is scalable to whatever lenght you'd like. I power mine with a Filstar XP2 and an XP1 and neither have even the slightest troubles with the reactor length.

Did you do the double 90° or are you straight? What diameter are you using?


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## Harry

Hi,

how big should the bio-balls be? i have found only 23mm diameter balls, thus in a 2" pipe there is space for more than 20 such bio-balls

is this ok?

thanks in advance


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## Gomer

Bio balls are just to stirr up some turbulence. I only use 5, but you can use more. I think mine are either 1 or 1.5"...I forget.


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## SAWALLACE

I used 2" inner diam. pvc with the 2 90 deg. elbows. It's real close to what you designed only instead of the 2" NPT male/female connection i used a 1.5" connector (this might cause an overall length issue, mine is 12.5" from cap to cap (not elbows)). Also i found a threaded 90 deg. so i didn't have to use a bushing.

I'm using 6 -1.25" bioballs

I tried tilting the unit -20 deg. from vertical. I was told this might help, but it didn't.

I use an XP3 rated at 350gph.


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## Rolo

Gomer, you mentioned building several of these reactors. Have you made one allowing injecting the CO2 from the bottom? Better/worse results? Do little bubbles still make it out of your reactor design?


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## Gomer

Scott, all I can say is that my XP2 doesn't even come close to overpowering the reactor that I built. Are you running DIY or pressurized? Wonder if you are getting a build up of non disolvables.

Rolo, I built 10 in total LOL. All of them injected at the top. If you inject at the bottom, you are injecting into a high flow region (everything beyond is ~1" diameter). If you inject into the top, you have to pass a low flow region (through a 2" diameter). 
Run the math, and in an ideal situation (never is LOL) you have 1/4 the flow rate in the 2" section.


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## yildirim

*Inline reactor parts*

Does anyone have a dismantled parts diagram for this reactor. I need to see the parts seperately in order to explain them to the people (lfs) here. I can not find each of them as they are not exactly sure what to give. I'm very interested in doing this regulator, it is just what I'm looking for.

YILDIRIM


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## Rolo

yildirim said:


> Does anyone have a dismantled parts diagram for this reactor. I need to see the parts seperately in order to explain them to the people (lfs) here. I can not find each of them as they are not exactly sure what to give. I'm very interested in doing this regulator, it is just what I'm looking for.
> 
> YILDIRIM


Dismanteled Reactor. Similar but not exact to Gomer's design.

I really like the use of part #13. I sawed my own reactor into two pieces and reconnected it with that test tee. This allows you to remove or add bio balls.

Gomer, Wow! 10 reactors? Now I could imagine you did some experimentation. Did you build ones without bio balls and think it was better/worse?


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## Gomer

Part #13 was something I was hunting for but was extremely hard to find for some reason. Instead, I ended up using G-H which unscrew. I don't think you'll ever need to dismantle these guys if you run on the output of the filter though.

I built 10 so that I could built them affordably LOL. Buying in bulk really helped. All 10 were made identical. I actually based mine on Jame's reactor using what was available to me LOL.


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## Harry

Gomer, i constructed the reactor and its length is 60cm (24"). I still see a lot of tiny bubbles coming out of the spray bar and the co2 is injecting 1 bubble/sec.

would it help to have the input of the CO2 at the bottom of the reactor instead at the top?

any advice on how to handle this problem with the bubbles?

thanks


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## Gomer

The first 2 potential things:

1) is the reactor oriented vertically?
2) is the CO2 input on the TOP section?
3) Does flow go from top to bottom?
4) Did make sure that the reactor is completely full of water and doesn't have a big pocket of water in it? (if it is setup like 1-3, then just invert when you have flow)


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## Harry

hi Gomer

1. yes it is vertically positioned
2. CO2 is on the top section
3. flow goes from top to bottom
4. i cant be sure cause the tube is grey PVC.

any advice?


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## Gomer

There is a good possibility that the air bubbles are trapped O2/N2. While you have flow, turn the reactor upside down. You will probably get a big burp. After the reactor is emptied of gasses, you should have no more problems


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## Rob G

Gomer said:


> There is a good possibility that the air bubbles are trapped O2/N2. While you have flow, turn the reactor upside down. You will probably get a big burp. After the reactor is emptied of gasses, you should have no more problems


Tony, how often do you find your reactors needing a "burp?"


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## cS

I don't think there can possibly be enough O2/N2 accumulation as to cause a 24" reactor at 1 bubble CO2 per second to constantly burp tiny bubbles. While it is normal for a reactor to burp bubbles during the first few days of operation, if it continues to burp tiny bubbles then your flow rate is stronger than the natural buoyancy of the CO2 bubbles, thus flushing them out of the reactor. Two things you can do to remedy this: (1) lower flow rate and/or (2) put more bio-balls, bio-rings, etc. The former is usually not very negotiable but it is pretty easy to stuff the reactor with more bio-balls/rings/stars/etc., even when it has already been sealed. Simply hack-saw the PVC tube in half, stuff it, and join the two pieces back together with an appropriately-sized PVC coupling. These obstructions slow down flow rate and trap gas bubbles; thereby allowing their dissolution before being blasted into your tank.


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## Gomer

When I open up my canister and re-prime after cleaning, I introduce air. THis is the only time that I may have burping. After purged, I never have any burping issues. I run pressurized CO2.


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## Rob G

Gomer said:


> When I open up my canister and re-prime after cleaning, I introduce air. THis is the only time that I may have burping. After purged, I never have any burping issues. I run pressurized CO2.


Thanks for the response, Tony. Now that you mention it, I had not noticed any gas build-up prior to opening my canister filter for cleaning. Thanks for the tip.


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## Osteomata

Gomer,
any thoughts doing an inline reactor of this type with a Zoomed 501 filter? WOuld you scale it down considering the lower flow?


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## Gomer

I see no reason why you couldnt scale it down. I of course have no plans for that LOL


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## bc_hawaii

I'm planning on purchasing an Ehiem 2213, would this reactor be fitting for this filter and a 29 gallon tank?

Looks really spiffy... Hehe...


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## Gomer

I've used this reactor with a 29,30 and 40g powered by either a Filstar XP1 or XP2 ..not a single issue.


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## bigstick120

do you have a photo of it connected to the fliter? Any lose of GPH to the filter


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## Jason Baliban

Does this sound like a good deal for 1 foot length. Is there any other place that sells Clear PVC by the foot? If so, could you post the link. Thanks
jB

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...e=USPlastic&category_name=54&product_id=16628


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## cousinkenni

Jason,

We can find it in hawaii for $4/foot, but you have to buy 10 feet. I would imagine it is less on the mainlad considering everything is more expensive here on the islands. You can try a plastics supply house I believe that is where Aaron picked ours up.

Just be careful of what size you buy. I found out yesterday that the 2" doesn't dissolve the CO2 well enough with a Fluval 304 filter (hence the message I sent the other day). I don't think the Fluval is powerful enough to keep the bubbles "suspended" in the reactor water flow. The CO2 just collects at the top and forms a pocket. I just bought 1-1/2" PVC to try. I will finish and install tonight so I will let you know how that works (if you are interested or use a fluval).

Ken T.


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## Gomer

www.usplastics.com might be able to help you but at a premium for 1ft lenghts.

Ken, I have the reactor design powered by both a Filstar XP1 and an XP2 without any problems whatsoever. One thing that might help is the 90° angle that generates a fair amount of turbulance.

GL


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## Jason Baliban

Thanks for the tips Ken and G. USP only sells in 10 foot. G, can you send me a direct link to get this clear pvc. I can find it......oh and the barbs.....I want 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 just so i have them. I was able to find everything else.....now i just need this one piece.
THanks
jB


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## cousinkenni

So Tony,

Do you place the CO2 inlet directly at the 90 elbow or just before it (closer to the inlet). Now that I think of it, I placed the CO2 inlet after the elbow (closer to the reactor body). Do you think the CO2 isn't getting "chopped" into fine enough particles to dissolve?

Thanks in advance

Ken T.


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## plantbrain

www.aquaticeco.com sells about everything you could want, including neat gas diffuser stones.

They have acrylic tubing cut to length and clear PVC as well.
TAP plastics will also ship.

Regards, 
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com Learn how to grow aquatic plants like the weeds that they are!


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## Jason Baliban

plantbrain said:


> www.aquaticeco.com sells about everything you could want, including neat gas diffuser stones.
> 
> They have acrylic tubing cut to length and clear PVC as well.
> TAP plastics will also ship.
> 
> Regards,
> Tom Barr
> 
> www.BarrReport.com Learn how to grow aquatic plants like the weeds that they are!


Thanks Tom,
I have been in contact with them over the last few days. They want a $20 min or they charge handling fee of 5. So we are looking at over $20 for a 1 foot piece of plastic. Does anyone have a better idea. $20 kind of defeats DIY doesnt it? Maybe we could get a bunch of us to order. PLEASE HELP!!! At this point why not spend $15 more and get a real one and save the headache. HAHAHAHA
Thanks
jB


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## cousinkenni

Hey Jason,

Depending on what size clear PVC you want, I can help! I have an extra couple of feet of 2".

PM me and I will see what I can do!

Ken Takeuchi


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## Jason Baliban

Is there any reason not to use brass for the barbs? Its hard to find nylon 1/2 to 5/8 barb, so i was thinking of using brass. Any probs?

jB


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## hueyn

Hi Jason,

I used some brass fittings on mine and I have not had any problems.

As for the clear PVC, I used the clear PVC from the Python gravel tube. It is 2" diameter and thickness feels pretty good. I guess if you can get that part cheap in your area, it might be an alternative. Just an idea.

Thanks,
Huey


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## Praxx42

Brass barbs should not be an issue. I have been using a 3/4" brass barb on my reactor for almost two years now without problems.


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## Jason Baliban

Thanks for you comments Hueyn and Praxx. I plan to look around just a bit more for nylon. Does anyone else have insite on this?

jB


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## Gomer

Since I made mine in bulk

www.mcmaster.com

They have EVERTHING you could ever need (hardware wide)


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## JaySilverman

I just finished building one of these. I used the clear plastic tube from an old python. The insides of each end piece that the python went into had to be grinded down a tiny bit to make the plastic fit right. In total the whole thing costed me $12 canadian. I just started it up an hour ago. It built up a pocket within half an hour that I had to burp out manualy by turning the whole thing upside down. But I think this was just the air from my new bottle of yeast and hopefully I won't have to do it again.


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## duckdog

Built mine two days ago man what a diff works awesome, I built mine out of ABS can't see in so I just make sure my bubble counter is working I dont really need to sit and what bubbles diffuse lol. Thanks for the article I based mine of this and another. CO2 using two hagen canisters, cause they look pretty lol from 14ppm to 28 varying of course but nice real nice 

Cheers


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## TexasRock

Is there anyway to incorporate one of these on a wet/dry filter? Any ideas anyone? 

I have a spare pump laying around so I could theoretically build one that has its own pump and have the return going into my sump to be blasted back into the tank...

Thanks in advance!

TexasRock


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## wguttrid

Question, how do you guys mount this in your set-up, I have a canistier filter.

Does anyone have pictures of how they actually mounted this?


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## dkfennell

Gomer, when you attach this to your XP-2 hoses, do you use a tube clamp?

Thanx,

Darrell


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## gonzo777

The reactor tubes are mounted on the outlet of the powerhead, right?

I have a Penguin 660R powerhead.










Could it be modified to add the reactor tube or is the flow rate (175 GPH) too high?


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## Glouglou

*Did you try this*

You can interchange the G or E parts with a Union O-ring type to be able to dismantle the reactor for cleaning or modification of the innard for performance enhancement.

You can build a bubble counter with the same type of union. (smaller size)


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## trilinearmipmap

Can someone explain the airline fitting, I assume you drill a hole in the pvc and glue the airline fitting in place, I can't find one anywhere.


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## Purrbox

What you are looking for is an airline connector. http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=31668;category_id=3977


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## Rex Grigg

I show how to build a much simpler and cheaper version in my Guide.

You can simply drill a small hole and pull the tubing though it. No need for a fitting of any kind.

If my wife did not have the digital camera in Montana I would post a picture of how I do this. Gas and water tight every time.

A direct link to my reactor page is http://rexgrigg.com/diy-reactor.htm


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## kimbm04r

*I finally did it.....*

I have been wanting to make an external reactor for quite some time. I have had the parts but I just finally got the PVC cut this week so I finally glued the thing together last night. I made the "Rex Grigg Reactor" but modified it with a different type of CO2 connection and I used 15" PVC instead of the called for 18" only because the later makes the thing to long for the cabinet my hubby is in the process of building for me. (actually it would probably fit but it is just to close for comfort)

I have taken pictures of the parts list as well as it in the "rough" assembly stage. When I finally get it hooked up (hopefully this weekend) I will take a picture of that as well and post them here for all to see.


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## Mitica

*Too much presure?*

Dear All
First of all I want to say hello to everybody fron Romania, as I'm new here !
I've done a similar reactor but my problem is that it seems that the presure from the reactor is too high for my yeast generator. After 2 days of starting the generator the presure that it generates is too low compared to the presure from reactor and i get water in the co2 admision. After 3 days the water is just near the valve that prevents the water flow into yeast generator.
Details:
-reactor placed on the outtake of external filter, aprox 1 m below the water leve.
-the yeast generator works ok for more than 3 weeks if it is connected to an co2 reactor in tank
Is there anythig that I could do .. of course, except buying a presurized system?


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## kimbm04r

I have had my external reactor running for about a week now and the controller always reads higher than I have it set for shut down. It hasn't shut down once. It will go from 6.9 to 7.2 over the course of the day, the highest reading being in the evening. I checked the Kh tonight and it is 17 and I also checked the Ph reading to make sure the controller is reading properly (I recalibrated it when I hooked up the reactor, it was off .1). When I checked it with my test kit it also reads 7.2, the same as the controller.

This puts my C02 reading at 32. The water is the clearest it has been in a long time but I am guessing that just may be because I cleaned the filter when I hooked up the reactor.

Is it normal for the Ph to fluctuate that much over the course of the day? Did I do something wrong? I checked for leaks but there aren't any.

We finally got the cabinet (minus doors, shelves and drawers) put in this weekend so I am waiting to post the pictures until I can get the aquarium moved to it's new location.


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## Rex Grigg

Sounds like you need to increase your bubble rate. The pH should not move all that much. And the rise at the end of the day is a clear sign that you are not injecting enough CO2 for the plants.


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## kimbm04r

Thanks Rex, I have increased it but I will increase it more when I get home tonight. I have the controller set at 6.7 at the moment but with the Kh reading being so high I think I may have to set the Ph higher to keep the CO2 reading where it belongs. Not sure why the Kh is so high. When I move the tank should I use some of the old water and R/O to get the KH down? Is that reading to high for Kh?


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## Smokin_Cache

I am thinking of building one of these! Any ideas on how big I need to make it to load my tank and handle 600-700 GPH?


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## Rex Grigg

That reading is not to high. But it is high.

Smokin,

What size tank? And it's hard to build a reactor that will handle 600-700 gph. If you get too much water flow though the reactor it tends to just blow the CO2 bubbles right into the tank. So I would go with a larger diameter. Say 3" and then make it about 24-28" long.


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## Smokin_Cache

I think my stand is 36"tall so I should be able to put 30" or so. It's a 125g with a 29g sump.
I hope I am not intruding on someones thread here!

Thanks for your help!!


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## Rex Grigg

125 gallon tanks actually do much better with dual reactors. Unless you have a lot of water movement in the tank. I have seen differences of 15-20 ppm from one end of a 6' tank to the other when one reactor was used and there was not a lot of water movement in the tank. 

And to really do it right you need to have dual CO2 feeds with individual needle valves.


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## Smokin_Cache

Hmmm 2!! My spray bar spans 42" across the back and it is moving 550 to 650 GPH. If I adjust it some I can get movement in all my plants. You think I will make it with one? BTW nice site.


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## Rex Grigg

With a 42" spray bar you should be ok. That length makes a huge difference.


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## Smokin_Cache

Thanks!!

I have got to get started on one! I am tired of looking though micro bubbles to see my fish.


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## fishtk75

*low pressure*

REX,
The external reactor is this for a pressurized system?
Is there a special way to put the reactor verical or horizial?
What is the flow to be? also how do you make it the size to fit the tank per gallon as for say make it this long for x size tank?
For a Diy CO2 low pressure yeast generator will this work?
If not which reactor will work for low pressure yeast generator ?


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## kamel_007

Hey.. i done my reactor..

I inject the CO2 line via power head line..

and i got the clear PVC from the gravel cleaner..


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## jonathan03

I have a quick question about the bio-balls. I bought Lee's brand and they can be connected to each other to form a chain. Did you guys connect them or just put them in the reactor?


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## epicfish

Just put them in, I believe.


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## dymndgyrl

Hi, new here and just putting together a reactor. About the bio-balls - do they rattle around and make noise?
Also, has anyone tried attaching an airstone to the co2 line _inside_ the reactor for better diffusion? (in other words on the inside end of the air hose if you've simply run it thru a hole, as Rex reccomends, or by adding a little piece of hose and then the airstone inside if you're using a bulkhead fitting)


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## SpaceBug

I haven't put mine together yet so I can't answer the question about the noise. But I wouldn't use the airstone as it will eventually clog and need to be cleaned/replaced. Besies with this type of reactor you aren't really bubbling the CO2 through the water as much as you are splashing the water around in a larger CO2 bubble (hope that makes some sense).


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## tripico

Not sure if anyone has answered this but can you apply this reactor with a Yeast CO2 setup?.. Would the outflow cause a suction of the yeast into the tank?


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## Leonard

Hello! =)

Im going to buy or build a reactor, which look something like that. Its for my 160l planted tank, with pressuered CO2, from a tube.
I thought I wouldn't do shuch a big one, but it will be the sama modell.

I live in Sweden, and it feels to expencive to buy parts from USA or an other continet. I haven't found any clear PVC in Sweden yet.
If I'm buying a reactor, it will be a AquaMedic Rector 1000.
It's not to many Swedish people in here, but does anyone know if you can buy parts from a country in Europe?


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## Gomer

> I haven't found any clear PVC in Sweden yet.


The clear PVC is purely cosmetic. Using normal white PVC will not affect performance and will be noticeably cheaper 


> Not sure if anyone has answered this but can you apply this reactor with a Yeast CO2 setup?.. Would the outflow cause a suction of the yeast into the tank?


As long as you use a check-valve (everyone should IMO) between the reactor and the CO2 source, you will not have any problems with backflow.


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## ed seeley

I've bought stuff from Henderson Plastic Ltd. in the UK.
http://www.hendersons.co.uk/Pipework2/index.html

They have a big range, but the clear pipe they stock is expensive and I don't know if they'll ship to Sweden. I'm sure you must have a distributer of PVC pipe in your country. Try horticultural suppliers.


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## Leonard

I'll try to look for clear PVC in Sweden, or else buy a reaktor...

I'd like to have clear PVC, then you see what happens in the reactor, also it's nicer I think =)


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## aman74

Gomer said:


> The clear PVC is purely cosmetic. Using normal white PVC will not affect performance and will be noticeably cheaper
> 
> As long as you use a check-valve (everyone should IMO) between the reactor and the CO2 source, you will not have any problems with backflow.


I don't think he was concerned with backflow, but with suction pulling yeast into the reactor and tank. I'd be interested in this as well.

I'd imagine a bubble counter/gas seperator solves the problem?


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## Leonard

Now I've bought a AM Reactor 1000, I haven't installed it yet, but I'll do it in a fex days....


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## mids1999

If yous works anything like mine, pulling co2 into the reactor would be the last thing I would be worried about.

Mine has water that pushes its way through the co2 line with a decent amount of pressure unless you either have a check valve and pressurized co2.

I made mine 24" and filled it with bio balls.

I have mine assembled a little differently.
I used a 3/4" T on the input side having the water going straight in through a 5/8" hose barb and the co2 comming in through the side of the T using another hose barb.

The output is just abother hose 5/8" barb.

I am using a filstar xp3 and the reactor is installed on the filter output and mounted vertically with the input side up on the back of the tank stand.
Tank is 75 gal with pressurized co2.


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## Muirner

Does it matter the orientation of the reactor? ie does it have to be horazontal? or can it be kind of diagonal?


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## snickle

Nice design. I may have to try it if just injecting prior to my return pump does not.

Would expanding the pipe diameter, help any?

I was thinking 12" of 3" pipe?


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## Muirner

Also how long is suggested? I have a 55 gallon tank and if i make it with 2" pipe i can go shorter, but 1" pipe might be easier to hang, Any suggestions on how long either nees to be?


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## freydo

if you're going to be using bio-balls, i think you can get away with a shorter tube. gomer went with an 8" length, and he had that connected up to a 40 gallon tank, so i don't think you'll have any problems on a 55 gallon tank.

rex grigg uses 18" for a pipe length. i think mainly because his doesn't include bio-balls, and to give that extra bit of time for the co2 to be absorbed into the water. and he went with 1.5" diameter.


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## Muirner

Thanks for the advice, I'll be picking up some supplies i hope tonight. I'll be using (i think) 1" pipe, i have found it for about 2$ for 2 feet. I'll be using biorings in place of the bioballs. Hopefully tonight i can find what i need with my dad, last night well ummm was horrible.


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## freydo

or you can go over-board fancy like mine


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## bpndf01

i'm interested in installing external reactor to new tank i'm setting up. it's a 20 gallon tank, co2 injection, eheim 2222 canister filter which pumps 500l/h. your design is very beautiful, and i am actually contemplating trying to build one...if i dare. i'm not that handy. 

a couple of questions: (1) would flow rate be adequate if attached to eheim outflow/aquarium return line? it would run to spraybar which is mounted below water surface level. 
(2) is there any advantage to splitting outflow to two return lines (if that makes sense) - one to spray bar and second, more standard return, dedicated strictly to co2 reactor.

thanks in advance.


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## Melissa3

hey guys, thanks for this great thread. i would like to see more pics of other reactors in-use. i might use this style reactor but have a concern for the size. i plan on using it on my 10g project. would this be overboard or can it be monitored with a bubble counter? could i be comprimising my ph by using something this size on a 10g??

any and all help would be great!

thanks


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## Muirner

Melissa, what do you use for a filter set up right now? A reactor mainly goes on a cannister filter thus on bigger tanks. I mean, sure you can do it no problem, you'll just need an external pump. Any size reactor is ok, the bigger the tank the bigger the reactor.


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## Muirner

So I got all the parts i needed, and the reactor together, but where i put my brass hose barb i cannot get it to seal. I'll have to take it down tomorow and teflon tape it, and silicone it again. I tried to do it in the tight space under my stand and it didnt work so well.


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## Muirner

Ok, so I took it down yesterday, hooked up the brass hose barb up with some teflon tape, and it was sealed good to go. SWEET! Now my only thing is, the reactor is about 2' long, filed with biorings, I'm injecting into it at about 2 bps. The thing is, i'm getting a few bubbles out the spray bar, and plants dont peral at least for 3 hours after the lights come on, it seems about 4-5 hours after they are in a good swing. I dont have any very heavy perlers (ricca, ect).

How can I get 100% absorbtion of the CO2? it seems i'm wasting a little on every bubble. Here is my reactor design. I took the rexgrieg design and modified it a little bit. Now i'm thinking of selling it in favor of a 3' reactor.










Excuse the silicone around the brass hose barb. I attempted to seal it quickly with out taking it down, and it well. Didnt work. But here is a picture of the intake side. Water comes in the 90* elbow, and out the straight top.


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## ed seeley

You say that the water enters at the 90o elbow end, where the CO2 is injected and exits the straight end. Does your reactor sit with the bend at the bottom? In which case simply flipping the reactor round so the bend's at the top will help enormously.

If you do you usually have the input at the top then the only thing I can suggest is reducing the flow rate through the reactor. When my Ehiem is at full blast it blows bubbles out of the reactor and mine's about 2.5" diameter, when I turn it down a bit I don't see any bubbles coming out in the outflow.


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## Muirner

Water comes in the 90 And out the straight correct. making it with dual 90's would have been preferable, but i couldnt do it. The way it's set up is so tight already. I'm not even sure i could go larger on the pvc size, maybe just longer? I dont see many bubbles because i have slowed the flow. 

Now my next question. I dont see much perling until about noon, this is 3 hours after the photoperiod begins. And even then it's just "false perling" like if a plant is cut or something, but i do eventually get the perling. I dont have the best "perling plants" but i have Cabomba, Bylaxia, Vals, i think 2 melon swards, marsilia, stargras, java moss, spiky moss. and a few others.

WHAT IF, i were to extend the pipe before the 90, I could extend it another foot maybe two, and that'd give me an overall length of about 3-4'. I could inject at the far end of the straight pipe and it'd have about 3-4' before it was going back into the hose and into the tank. Any thoughts on this?


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## jesseoneill

So I built the reactor following Gomer's plans in the first post. I've got the CO2 going into it and have the reactor set up on the outflow of my Ehiem Ecco 2232. However, I have one problem. I can't get the CO2 to go into the reactor!

I have the pressure on the regulator turned way up and the needle valve completely open. I have a solenoid, and that is also on and open. Unfortunately I can't tell you the exact pressure coming out of the regulator because it seems that my regulator is bad and doesn't want to display neither the cylinder pressure nor the regulator pressure. If I turn the outflow on my filter off then I get about 1 bubble every two seconds, but if I have any water flow at all I get no bubbles and water starts to come back up the CO2 tubing.

Any ideas/help?

P.S. - Just realized that while I have the in/out on the reactor hooked up correctly, I have the water coming in at the bottom and going out the top. If I flip it around will it fix my problem?


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## Muirner

Ed - First i gotta ask, which side do you suggest hooking the reactor up to? It's currently on the discharge line. Second, if i flip it over with the 90 on the top, and inject there, then i'll have to run a hose down to the bottom of the straight piece so the flow would be reversed of the injection. 

As of now the water goes in the 90 and out the top.


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## essabee

OH NO! :heh: 

The water and the CO2 goes in from the top and comes out at the bottom.

This causes the micro bubbles to be carried to the bio-balls and coaxed to dissolve rayer: , while the larger bubbles rise to the mouth of the water inlet and gets pushed downwards vigorously breaking down into smaller bubbles :boxing: .


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## Muirner

I'll see what i can do. I'm going to have to figure out ho to work around this 90* i have in there, but i think i came up with something. Just gotta maybe switch some hoses around. Now *I* wish i had another set of hoses.


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## PinchHarmonic

Hi,

so is there a general formula for the length of the reactor compared to the power of the cannister?
It seems like if the cannister is extremely powerful, even with the proper orientation (in 90 degree elbow, out at bottom), it will blow bubbles out of the spray bar.

I have a renaissance cannister that is powerful enough to filter a 120gallon aquarium (i don't know the gph, but it was much stronger than my eheim 2227, which I returned).

How do I know how long I need to make my reactor? And if I need to make it longer, am I only adjusting the clear tubing in the center (going by the DIY plans stickied).

Btw, I have a 55 gallon with the cannister mentioned, and I'm either going to do the reactor and make it woirk properply. Or go easy style and get a glass diffuser rated for my tank size on ebay. 

Pros and cons going wtih just a glass diffuser in tank?

Thx all!


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## jazzlvr123

this is probably a stupid question to all of you pro's but what is the role on an inline reactor in a filtratyion system? aka what does it do? is it like a diffuser? breaks up co2 to evenly distribute it into your tank?


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## tazcrash69

jazzlvr123 said:


> this is probably a stupid question to all of you pro's but what is the role on an inline reactor in a filtratyion system? aka what does it do? is it like a diffuser? breaks up co2 to evenly distribute it into your tank?


Dissolve CO2, you can run 1 on just a pump, it does not need to be on a cannister.

For PH, I think width is also a very considerable factor, the wider the PVC, the more water will slow down, preventing the bubble from just shooting out the outflow.


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## hoppycalif

*Re: DIY Inline reactor plans-Yet another design*










This is the external reactor I just finished making this weekend. It features a built-in bubble counter at the bottom, to eliminate the problem of keeping water in the bubble counter, and it reduces the number of CO2 leakage points. It has a bleed valve at the top to bleed off any trapped air bubble. The center section and the bubble counter are made of clear PVC, and some of the fittings are brass, but the rest is just hardware store standard PVC fittings. Here are some detail photos:


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## ponyrandy

Great job Hoppy, I like the way you were thinking! Thanks also for the pictures. I am still in the planning stages for mine so I don't speak from experience, but by introducing co2 into the bottom won't a lot of it be just swept out the outlet? Do you have it hooked up yet to see if this is the case?
Brian


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## hoppycalif

I hope to get this hooked up today, with a Rena Filstar XP3 canister filter. The CO2 enters about 2" above the outlet, so I hope the bubbles rise faster than the water flow goes down at that area. The idea is to have the CO2 enter near the bottom to give the maximum of time for contact with the water flow, while still not sweeping the bubbles out the outlet. I will report what I find when it is up and running.

Any CO2 that collects at the top of the device will be largely useless, since no flow goes thru that area. This is the first one of these I have made, so I am feeling my way here!


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## ponyrandy

Ahhh, I see it in the picture now. I missed it the first time. Looking forward to hearing how it works. I also like that you used the clear tubing so you can see what it is doing.
Brian


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## ponyrandy

Oh and my thought on the co2 at the top, once it fills with co2 the rest that rises to the top will have to get diffused, so if you never bleed it after the initial startup it should work great!
Brian


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## hoppycalif

My built-in bubble counter isn't a good idea! (It hurts to say that!) Because the open end of the 1/2" tube is where the bubbles escape into the main body of the reactor, the bubbles tend to be almost 1/2" in diameter. I suspected this would be the case, since the bubbles are not formed at the tiny diameter of the CO2 inlet hose barb, but further up the counter, where the diameter is much larger. I couldn't think of a good way around that or I would have made it differently. It is possible that tilting the reactor so the bubbles go faster from the barb into the counter body would iimprove things. I may try that tomorrow.


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## tazcrash69

Hoppy, I love the design, but have a couple questions:
With your design what is the low end pressure that you are running with? 
On my first reactor I did something similar, which made me have to run a very high low end pressure (~45 psi) because the water wants to flow into there. By running a line inside the rector from the top in the direction as the water flow, I've been able to reduce the low end pressure greatly (~15), and gave myself a steadier bubble count). 

as for the built in bubble counter, I love the idea. 
If you ever revisit the idea, and build another ([email protected] slip fittings!), maybe a 1/2" coupler to a 1/8" hose barb at the end of the CO2 injection tube?


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## hoppycalif

My CO2 low pressure is still the same as when I injected it into a Barr Internal venturi reactor, about 20 psi. The check valve I have right at the bubble counter inlet keeps any water from flowing back to the regulator. The big surprise to me is how easy it is to "count" the bubbles in the 2" clear PVC body of the reactor. No bubble counter is really needed.

I'm now planning on adding a DIY venturi in the reactor outlet, up near the tank, and plumbing the gas bleed valve outlet to the venturi, so I can have a CO2 mist effect while avoiding a big gas bubble in the reactor at the same time. It would then be self bleeding. If I were to do this again I think I would use regular 2" white PVC for the reactor body, with a 1/2" clear PVC tube glued to the side to act as a bubble counter - a 1/8 hose barb on the bottom and top, with a check valve at the bottom to stop back flow of water. The flaw in that scheme is maintaining waater in the counter and keeping it clean. So, maybe that would be a bad idea too, although a simple tee with a bleed valve at the bottom of the counter would allow for easy water replenishment.

Now I need to do some research on making a good, low pressure-drop venturi.


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## hoppycalif

The reactor works very well, in spite of the really big CO2 bubbles. Within an hour or so I had 30 ppm of CO2 (per my drop checker) in the water, with the same CO2 regulator and needle valve setting as I was using for my Barr internal venturi reactor, which also gave 30 ppm. The difference is that the plants all pearled vigorously, probably because I now have very strong water currents in the tank. The water current ripples the surface a bit, so by morning the drop checker color is a solid blue, instead of the blue green I had with the venturi reactor. (CO2 off). I still plan to try a DIY venturi in the line just ahead of the spray bar to try for some CO2 mist too, but I need a 5/8" double end hose barb, and all that my hardware store had was 1/2" and 3/4". Next is Home Depot.


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## ponyrandy

Any updates?
Brian


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## hoppycalif

ponyrandy said:


> Any updates?
> Brian


No, nothing is happening except that the reactor seems to work very well. My life is now so busy I am finding it hard to get time to even do routine maintenance on the tank.


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## hoppycalif

I learned something today. I finally got around to cleaning and pruning my tank. Please don't ask how long it has been. First I forgot that you have to unplug the hoses from a Rena Filstar XP3 filter before you do maintenance, so I lost the prime on the filter. Then the fun began. I filled the inlet hose, plugged in the hoses, and lost the syphon quickly. This happened over and over for almost 2 hours, before I noticed that when I unplug the hoses I get a loud hiss like a vacuum escaping, but there can't be a vacuum in the hoses, since they are under water at the top. Finally I looked at the External CO2 Reactor. It had a bubble of CO2 at the top, trapped. So, I tried opening the bleed valve at the top as the filter tried to fill with water to prime it, a blast of pressure escaped, and water soon followed, as the filter, at long last primed itself.

I can't remember reading anywhere that this would happen. But, now I know. When priming that filter an external reactor needs to be bled at the same time or the incoming water can't get past the slightly pressurized CO2 bubble in the top of the reactor. That was a hard lesson to learn.


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## MNMarty

I'll bump this thread with a 'Hello' and a project I am putting together. Suffice to say, it is extremely overkill; I'll be running an Eheim 2213 through this "reactor" (I call it a manifold or 'distribution header') and into an ADA Mini-M. When all is said and done, I believe my accessories will total nearly one gallon, mostly the Eheim at 3/4 gal, and I will have the ability to run (re: flow & turnover) anywhere from full-blast to drip-by-drip. All with nearly 100% CO2 absorption, hopefully. Anyways, on to the pics...



















A quick run down: CO2 will be injected into the 1/2" hose from the 2213, it (water and CO2) will enter the manifold (3/4" PVC), travel down around the heater (1.5" PVC) and through some bioballs, then it will travel up and either be recycled or fed to the tank. The recycle stream will allow the precise control of flow to the tank as well as steady, full flow for CO2 dissolution; this is where I will use two gate valves (pictured with circular/wheel handle) and a check valve to direct the water. A ball valve on the lower left allows quick draining during water changes (close recycle and feed, turn off heater and CO2, water feeds directly from 2213 to a waiting bucket) and a threaded trap allows for easy removal of the bioballs.

Comments, questions, suggestions?

Cheers,
Marty

PS. I told you it was overkill.


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## hoppycalif

I'm pretty sure the recycle line won't work. Since the flow is from the right side to the left side, the pressure at the right end of the recycle line will always be higher than at the left end, so no flow will ever go back to the right. The check valve to the right of the gate valve in the recycle line will just add a bit more back pressure (the unseat presssure of the check valve) which will make it even more impossible for flow to go that direction. You can make it work by using a venturi in the tee at the right of the recycle valve, with the recycle line connected to the venturi throat. Then that pressure might be lower than the pressure on the left of the recycle line, but only with considerable flow thru the venturi.

Or, you could have the recycle line go to the inlet of the canister filter.


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## MNMarty

The intention was to create a high-pressured left side by closing the feed gate valve down to a reasonable level for this tank. (Numbers are arbitrary but I figure 15gph for first few months and then bump up to 25gph when fully planted.) Since the 2213 is rated to 102gph when full, there will be an excess of flow that cannot enter the tank and will have to recycle... _Blah blah blah, don't like this idea anymore, thanks!_

*However*, I do like the idea of having the recycle go to the 2213 input, as it eliminates the need for a check valve and would create more dwell time for CO2 dissolution... And its just the simple matter of putting another hose barb at the feed T after the gate valve and running it to a T above the 2213's input... OR do the same but have the new barb go to the tank and the current feed barb go to 2213 input (any undissolved CO2 would normally go straight up to tank; this way it would go through the canister and only pure (no bubbles) water would go to tank)...

This is why I post before purchase and assembly. 

Cheers,
Marty


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## ponyrandy

Not having built mine, I do not speak from experience but I am trying to read and learn through others before I do. My thoughts are : its kind of like running the motor of your car at 6000 RPM to go 20 miles per hour. Why run this big of a filter when the ultimate goal is 25 gph? If you were to run a smaller filter with an efficient reactor, the results would be the same but would use less electricity. With the proposed system with 100% dissolution or with a smaller filter and efficient reactor and 100% dissolution, the amount of co2 introduced is identical. Only the co2 that gets to the plants does the plants any good, not the co2 going around and around in a filter loop. There is a lot to be said for Rex Griggs DIY vertical reactor design. The co2 is introduced at the top and stays suspended in the larger chamber with lower velocity as the co2 bubbles try to rise. They don't exit the top of the reactor because of the higher velocity at the smaller inlet at the top. The heater could also be incorporated at the bottom of the reactor to keep it out of the tank. I like the way you are thinking, but I think you are trying to put too much into it. I absolutely love the drawings though! It is so easy to understand what you are thinking with drawings so precise. How are you doing them?
Brian


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## hoppycalif

I agree with ponyrandy on all points, including the great illustrations.


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## ponyrandy

Thanks Hoppy, but I must admit a lot of what I have learned in the past few months have come from you and your previous project:hail: . My new Eheim came in last week so I will be going to Lowe's this week for reactor parts. I plan on practicing what I preach and try to make it as simple as possible. Pictures will follow so everyone can learn from my mistakes and hopefully a few good things will come out also. In the meantime everyone keep the ideas coming, I love the innovation and the thought process.
Brian


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## MNMarty

Brian,
I both completely agree and disagree with your points, hopefully I can explain myself a bit more.



ponyrandy said:


> Not having built mine, I do not speak from experience but I am trying to read and learn through others before I do. My thoughts are : its kind of like running the motor of your car at 6000 RPM to go 20 miles per hour. Why run this big of a filter when the ultimate goal is 25 gph? If you were to run a smaller filter with an efficient reactor, the results would be the same but would use less electricity. With the proposed system with 100% dissolution or with a smaller filter and efficient reactor and 100% dissolution, the amount of co2 introduced is identical.


With respect to electrical consumption and pump efficiency, I have a sneaking suspicion that the draw of this filter while under varying pressure/head will not change all the much. It is rated at 3 Watts, that's it. So, a 33% reduction in power consumption (to 2 Watts) only equates to a savings of 0.00432 dollars (lots of assumptions there! 24 hours, 30 days, $.006/kWh). This is a very efficient pump to begin with, but I don't think this was your main point. (When I have everything completely set up I will take a Kill-A-Watt meter to the filter and do some measurements, I promise to post them.)

"Why did you choose such a large filter to begin with?" was probably what you meant. In that case, please realize that I can use both the filter and the manifold on just about any tank up to.. maybe 40 gallons? And I can definitely see an upgrade within three years, so both will be used for a long time. By the way, a smaller filter like a ZooMed 501 still uses 4 Watts and only pumps 44gph maximum; I could not find any data on the Tom Rapid canister filter. As I said, this Eheim is quite efficient already.



ponyrandy said:


> Only the co2 that gets to the plants does the plants any good, not the co2 going around and around in a filter loop.


Yes, the plants can only *use* the CO2 if it enters the tank; however, the recycled water and CO2 are not wasted, the CO2 does not disappear when it enters the filter. The CO2 stays dissolved and the water enters the manifold again, to possibly be _more_ saturated with CO2. This water can then either go around again (more saturation!) or enter the tank where some of it (very little!) will be gassed off. Yes, this concept can also be used to argue your position. Since I will have more water volume, I will have to use a tiny bit more CO2 to *get to* the perfect 30ppm mark. Hopefully, however, the recycle will prevent that level from varying too much, as well as not requiring me to use as much CO2 to *maintain* the perfect 30ppm mark. To be determined!



ponyrandy said:


> There is a lot to be said for Rex Griggs DIY vertical reactor design. The co2 is introduced at the top and stays suspended in the larger chamber with lower velocity as the co2 bubbles try to rise. They don't exit the top of the reactor because of the higher velocity at the smaller inlet at the top. The heater could also be incorporated at the bottom of the reactor to keep it out of the tank. I like the way you are thinking, but I think you are trying to put too much into it.


I have checked out Mr. Grigg's reactor and I will agree with you on all those points. Yes, I _could_ have made this a LOT simpler, but frankly, my middle name has never been Simplicity. 



ponyrandy said:


> I absolutely love the drawings though! It is so easy to understand what you are thinking with drawings so precise. How are you doing them?
> Brian


The modeling and rendering was done with Rhinoceros 3D, which is nowhere near being affordable. Thank God we use it at both work and school, otherwise I would have to pay an arm and a leg for it. The post-processing was done with Photoshop, again not so free. 

Cheers,
Marty


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## ponyrandy

I figured you already had the filter and were going to make good use of it. Which Eheim is it? We are probably going to have to forward all of our ideas to you and have you draw them up for us for a small fee so we can see what they will look like in reality. :idea:  This is a fantastic tool. Keep us informed of what you build we would love to see it. 
Brian


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## johngfoster

But it will make a difference how low it is compared to the waterline. The lower you go, the higher the water pressure is due to the higher column of water. This means that your CO2 input needs to be at a higher pressure in order to flow forward.

Actually, wait a minute. That only applies to a static system. With flowing water, it may act as a venturi and suck the CO2 in. Never mind me.


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## MNMarty

ponyrandy said:


> I figured you already had the filter and were going to make good use of it. Which Eheim is it? We are probably going to have to forward all of our ideas to you and have you draw them up for us for a small fee so we can see what they will look like in reality. :idea:  This is a fantastic tool. Keep us informed of what you build we would love to see it.
> Brian


It is an Eheim 2213, completely forgot to mention that! As for drawing up ideas, it will be difficult without blueprints or drawings, but can certainly be done. _Gratis,_ of course, for APC (& TPT!) members. 
---

I have finished collecting parts and will hopefully glue and water test everything tomorrow or Thursday. After that I can fill the tank and get this started. Won't post any pictures until the tank is planted and well under way though.

Marty


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## CraigThor

After reading through this I want to build a reactor that is big enough to my pump. My wet/ dry is pumping around 700-800 GPH atmost with all the fittings and bends so how big does this thing need to be? I'm thinking 2" PVC around 30-40" tall with some bio balls. Anyone with experience os hihgher flows? I may consider getting a smaller seperate pump but prefer to make a bigger reactor as I have most all the PVC and bars laying around just need to get a few Bio balls. Thanks.

Craig


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## ponyrandy

I don't recall seeing a formula anywhere for size vs. gph, but the standard diameter seems to be 2". As far as the length goes, you can always make it longer and cut it off and it will only cost you either the top or bottom fitting. As far as bioballs, they only serve to restrict water flow and imo aren't necesary if the reactor is of proper size/length. Your worst enemy though is going to be the wet/dry dissipating the co2. Please post pictures with what you come up with though.
Brian


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## CraigThor

Here is the one I'm building. http://www.hoftiezer.net/personal/aquaria/aquaria_construction_co2reactor.htm, as you can see in my picture I put an extra 90 so that it is easier to get the water up without a kink in my hose. Overall length is 45" so that should be plenty. I haven't gotten it glued yet but will wait to be sure everything is good. I should have my reg from Rex later his week/ first of next week.


















Craig


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## ponyrandy

Looks great, but I do have one suggestion. I haven't figured out why, but all of the DIYs that I have seen have the cleanout plug out to the side. I would put the cleanout plug to the bottom so that you can use a bottle brush to clean the reactor. The outlet has to make a u-turn up anyway, so use the side outlet of the T for the output and put your 90 hose nipple there so your hose just runs straight up to the tank. I went one step further and used a sweep T in place of the standard T. Does anyone know of a reason to do it the other way? I finally have all of the pieces to mine rounded up and will be posting photos by the end of the week.
Brian


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## CraigThor

Finished glueing mine together and took out the tee all together and hard plumbed my line back to the tank top as I will be using Loc-Line(?) fittings to go into my tank. I will update my other post tomorrow as I get everything but my CO2 reg and Tank tomorrow in the mail.

Craig


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## Rex Grigg

Just posted a new and updated design for a DIY CO2 reactor on my web site.

http://rexgrigg.com/diy-reactor.htm

Only 5 pieces of PVC needed.

Total of 8 parts. 5 PVC pieces, two hose barbs and one piece of tubing.


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## ponyrandy

Finally, after much reading, discussing, and several trips to the hardware store(s), my co2 reactor has finally become a reality. The main changes/improvements I made are:
1. Everyone seems to put the cleanout plug on the side of the T and the outlet at the bottom. I put the cleanout at the bottom so that the reactor can easily be cleaned with a bottle brush. I used a sweep T and a brass street 90 to direct the output back up to the aquarium.
2. A potential hazard that I have noticed is that if the co2 tubing were to fail between the reactor and the check valve located in the tubing, there would be water all over the floor. In my design, the brass male coupler between the brass T and the hose barb for the co2 tubing is actually a check valve. This contains all water within the reactor. 
3. I believe I borrowed this idea from someone else. I installed a ball valve at the top of the reactor to bleed out air when starting the system so I don't have to turn the reactor upside down to burp it. 

Since this is the first one I have built, I sprang for the clear PVC for the body just so I could watch it work. I have a wrought iron stand, so I used velcro straps to attach it to the stand so it can be easily removed.

Lastly thanks to all for the great pictures and discussions that helped me design mine. I hope this helps and gives ideas to someone else.
Brian


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## hoppycalif

That looks like it should work pretty well. But, why are you introducing the CO2 at the very top instead of lower down where it can try to float up thru the flowing water? I'm not sure it makes a lot of difference, but I understood it was best to have it come in near the middle of the reactor.


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## Gomer

If water flows from top to bottom and your CO2 enters the bottom, it has a greater chance of hitting high current flushing the bubble out before dissolving. If it enters the top, it has a much greater chance of staying suspended in turbulent flow allowing it to fully dissolve.


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## ponyrandy

Yeah, what Gomer said. I took into consideration that the turbulence helps break up and dissolve the gas bubbles. I then made the reactor in steps of double. The water comes in through a 1/2" line. I then doubled the size of the pipe (1") where I introduce the gas. The velocity of the water coming out of the 1/2" keeps the bubbles from going backwards while the smaller 1" pipe size is more turbulent than the 2" body, therefore breaking up the bubbles to smaller bubbles. Also by introducing the gas at the 90 I feel like the turbulence is increased even more as the water makes the bend to go into the body. Most designs I have seen have a 90 hose nipple going into the top of the reactor, I just decided to take advantage of having to turn the flow downward into the reactor. I then again doubled the pipe for the body (2") to slow the current down and to give some area for the small bubbles to dissolve. By introducing the gas at the top, it takes advantage of the whole length of the reactor, without like Gomer said, blowing bubbles out the bottom prematurely. I am by no means an expert on these and this is the first one I have built, but I have been studying for quite some time now before building this one. I just got it up and running this morning because I wanted to make sure the glue was cured, and I have to say I couldn't be happier with the design. Because I used the clear PVC for the body, it's easy to watch it work. The bleed valve worked out great also, it was so easy to bleed all of the air out of the reactor upon startup.
Brian


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## hoppycalif

If you use a Rena Filstar filter the bleed valve is absolutely esssential. I can't prime my XP3 without leaving the bleed valve open while doing it. The CO2 bubbles in my reactor are pretty large, so they rapidly go to the top - the flow rate thru the 2" pipe isn't nearly enough to force them back down. I suspect it isn't critical where the CO2 comes in as long as it isn't in a small diameter section at the outlet.


----------



## ponyrandy

Agreed Hoppy, as long as the co2 isn't going out of the reactor in bubble form, the reactor is doing its job. This is not only my first reactor, but this is also my first experience with a cannister filter. The self prime feature on the Ecco seemed to work fantastic and even filled the reactor completely, but there was still a little bit of air in the top of the filter and it would not start on the first try. I primed it a second time and the filter started, but what air that was still in it went to the top of the reactor. I unplugged the filter one more time, put a cup under the bleed valve and cracked it open and all of the air came right out. IMO everyone should include the valve, it makes life a lot easier. 
Brian


----------



## MNMarty

Just thought I'd update my progress, sans pictures (sorry!). I did complete the "Monster" last week, nearly identical to my last render, but with a few critical changes that I will post later. I ran leak tests (in the sink) yesterday and found a few, at three of the seven threaded adapters, so those were quickly dried and pipe doped rather than re-applying tape. I began the complicated connection process last night and finished this morning, with only minor delays due to some stubborn hose-barbs (hot water helps lots), and just an hour ago sucked the last bit of air out and fired 'er up. One verrrryyyy slow leak still persists, luckily it is on a connection I will have to modify when my "lily pipes" arrive next week. 

Cheers for the many suggestions and criticisms. I simply could not have done this intelligently without some support. The recycle is working absolutely flawlessly. It turned out way above and beyond what I had hoped for. The use of the slice/gate valves allows extremely precise control over the water entering the tank, I will definitely have to get some video and measurements.

I guess this is worthless without pics, so I'll get right on that...


Regards,
Marty


----------



## ponyrandy

Looking forward to pictures. Can we get a cool drawing too? 
Brian


----------



## MNMarty

*Illustrated Render.* For reference, the "To Eheim 2213" line goes to a T, one arm of which goes to the filter, the other of which is the filter intake from the aquarium.

*Finished Build* Yes, the purple primer is unsightly. I'll probably paint the whole thing white, or maybe ADA-Grey, when I install the "lily pipes."

*Dry 'scape.* The planting plan is... Utricularia Gramnifolia across the whole front-left side, the flat-black rocks will be covered in some moss, and two 'stems' of blyxa japonica will be in the back corner behind the large rock.

*Watered-Down Picture* I may add another 1/2 inch of AquaSoil to the back for more of a slope.

And that's about it. Just lots of water changes now..

Cheers,
Marty


----------



## ponyrandy

Looks great Marty! Thanks for the pictures. BTW, you do know you can get clear primer and clear cement?
Brian


----------



## gotcheaprice

I'm gonna build this soon(even though I don't have a canister yet, lol. just making sure I have it when I need it) and I'm wondering how exactly would I install a bleed valve on the top of the reactor?
In Hoppy's design, the CO2 is on the bottom, but it should be on top right? Is there a way I can have co2, water inlet, and a bleed valve all in it? 
And ponyrider, I was wonder exactly where is your bleed valve? I only see the water inlet and co2 inlet on top of your reactor. Thanks!

Oh, I guess I shuld know exactly why the bleed valve is really essential. How does it affect priming? Am I correct thinking that priming is filling up the filter with water? Thanks, and sorry for being such a noob xD I want to get it right the first time.


----------



## hoppycalif

The CO2 needs to enter the reactor near the bottom, but in the large diameter part of the reactor, where the water flows slowly. That lets the bubbles float up against the incoming water flow. The Rena Filstar XP filters prime by siphoning water from the inlet hose down thru the filter, filling it, and back up the outlet hose. If there is a gas bubble trapped in the top of the reactor it prevents the siphoning from continuing long enough to completely fill the filter. So, having the bleed valve open avoids that problem. Don't try to duplicate my design! The bubble counter portion is unnecessary and unduly complicates it. Otherwise it does work very well.


----------



## gotcheaprice

Alright, building it from the bottom seems more convient, but if I can find a 4 way pvc pipe(do they have these? Never used pvc for anything before), could I make the bleed valve on top, inlet on one side, and co2 on the other?


----------



## hoppycalif

Here is a much simpler way to build this reactor: http://www.barrreport.com/articles/3444-dual-venturi-diy-external-co2-reactor.html. You do have to be able to drill small holes in the parts, and you need the rigid airline tubes, but other than that this is as simple as you can get. I would still add the bleed valve at the top, which is not shown on that design.


----------



## gotcheaprice

Where would I install the bleed valve on top? The extra tubing thing would be sufficient, or is that where the bleed valve goes?


----------



## hoppycalif

The intent of Tom Barr's design is to use the extra airline rigid tube at the top to allow running that to a venturi so the CO2/air bubble would be sucked out and turned into micro bubbles. But, you could easily use that for a bleed valve, or even add another tube like that for a bleed valve.


----------



## gotcheaprice

I'm sorry, but what's a venturi? 
And I think I'd just use that for the bleed valve. How would I install a bleed valve onto rigid tubing?
And thank you soo much for all the help you have given to me in all these threads!


----------



## mrkookm

gotcheaprice said:


> I'm sorry, but what's a venturi?


In simple terms its a suction port. You an create a simple venturi as shown in the pics by using an in-line hose adapter *pic 1*. Drill a hole big enough to push an airline T through as shown in *pic 2* and seal with epoxy. You can then and cut your return line from your canister filter and install as shown in *pic 1* or if you are going to be using a dedicated pump like I am, then install your venturi to the suction line to increase efficacy even more 'further impeller mixing' or you can install on your return line to the reactor....your choice.

*PIC 1*









In the picture above it shows me only using one port on my airline T and is the line coming from the top of the reactor by doing this performance is increased by a large amount and is how my setup is currently configured..:biggrin:



> And I think I'd just use that for the bleed valve. How would I install a bleed valve onto rigid tubing?
> And thank you soo much for all the help you have given to me in all these threads!


*PIC 2*









While the valve would give you the option to fine tune the performance I didn't use one. I connected an airline to this rigid tube and went direct to my venturi inlet *pic 1*. If you want * raw* performance then this is the route to choose  but depending on your setup this might be too much..and it _*can*_ give you too much


----------



## gotcheaprice

Well, the valve is to release gas right? And what exactly is a venturi?  I'd rather have extra than less performance. 

And hoppy, would the valve get all the gas out if I used the 3' of rigid tubing? Or would I have to make it on the top?


----------



## mrkookm

gotcheaprice said:


> Well, the valve is to release gas right? And what exactly is a venturi?  I'd rather have extra than less performance.


Yes but it will recirculate it instead when you connect it to your venturi 'aka suction port'. The suction port is what makes the reactor efficient because its constantly sucking out the co2 and then back into the reactor so it gets mixed in even more, finely misted & dissolved too all at once.

I did not use a valve for mine, I went direct to my venturi inlets but I have a 90al with a fairly big sump (36"x12"X14") not a canister so it takes alot more to get my levels up and stay up and this reactor performance is phenomenal... had to turn my BPS rate down....wow!



> And hoppy, would the valve get all the gas out if I used the 3' of rigid tubing? Or would I have to make it on the top?


Even if it does it get out all the gas which will not happen, it goes back into the reactor chamber because you will place the venturi 'suction' port *before* your reactor so co2 will always be recirculating.

So the order is Canister filter return line.............venturi................reactor................output to tank.


----------



## gotcheaprice

Ah, thanks for clearing up what that is. I'm going to probably do that too to help increase efficiency, though not a dedicated pump as that'll cost me more money  
And I think I'm confused on what the bleed valve is for... I thought it was to let go the gas out of the reactor into the air while you're priming only? Anyway, sleep D: 2:30 am, test tomorrow! Thanks for the help.


----------



## mrkookm

gotcheaprice said:


> Ah, thanks for clearing up what that is. I'm going to probably do that too to help increase efficiency, though not a dedicated pump as that'll cost me more money


Filter flow will do just fine.


----------



## hoppycalif

gotcheaprice said:


> Ah, thanks for clearing up what that is. I'm going to probably do that too to help increase efficiency, though not a dedicated pump as that'll cost me more money
> And I think I'm confused on what the bleed valve is for... I thought it was to let go the gas out of the reactor into the air while you're priming only? Anyway, sleep D: 2:30 am, test tomorrow! Thanks for the help.


I put a bleed valve on my reactor so I could bleed off any air bubble that collected there. But, I never have used it for that, since I don't get a big bubble of gas at the top. When I tried to reprime the filter the first time after I had cleaned it I couldn't get it to prime until I left the bleed valve open while it was priming. So, that is what I now use the bleed valve for.

Tom Barr's idea is to connect that bleed line to an area where low pressure will continually suck out any excess CO2, keeping any bubble from forming, or, if you connect that suction to a lower point on the reactor, it limits the size of any bubble that forms. The CO2 being sucked out can go to a powerhead, where the rotor chops it up into microbubbles, or it can go back to the canister filter where that pump chops into microbubbles, or it can go to a venturi (a tube with a slightly smaller inside diameter in the middle, which drops the water pressure there, sucking thru a small hole into that area.) and the venturi itself can bust up the bubble into micro bubbles.

I suspect that a Rena Filstar XP3 would not prime unless that bleed line is open to the air while it was priming, so I think a bleed valve is necessary. It has to be at the top of the reactor, because that is where the air bubble is trapped.


----------



## gotcheaprice

Ok, so I'm gonna try this model except throw in a bleed valve and the venturi. Though how would the bleed valve install into the rigid airline? Never saw one of those so I wanna make sure I get a right one.
Also, any suggestion on the length of the clear PVC piping? Thanks! Gonna try go to home depot this sat to build this and my hood  I'll make a new thread for that after I design it.


----------



## mrkookm

gotcheaprice said:


> Ok, so I'm gonna try this model except throw in a bleed valve and the venturi. Though how would the bleed valve install into the rigid airline? Never saw one of those so I wanna make sure I get a right one.
> Also, any suggestion on the length of the clear PVC piping? Thanks! Gonna try go to home depot this sat to build this and my hood  I'll make a new thread for that after I design it.


The length of the pvc pipe is 12".


----------



## gotcheaprice

oic... So the rigid tubing for the co2 goes all the way to the bottom? I guess hoppy's design is similar, except this has venturi stuff in it. So if I didn't use that, I could go with hoppy's design and just not use the bubble counter? Dunno which one to choose, hoppy's looks nicer


----------



## hoppycalif

Go with the simplest one! Mine costs more than Tom Barr's design would have cost, and takes more room under the tank. My only reservation about his design is worry about sealing where those rigid airline tubes go thru the fittings and the side of the main tube. I know PVC fittings seal perfectly when cemented, but cementing non-PVC to PVC worries me.


----------



## gotcheaprice

Ah, I see... I'll have to decide upon the supplies I have. Do most hardware stores carry rigid airline tubing? 
And how would I install the bleed valve into the rigid airline tube? Thanks


----------



## hoppycalif

gotcheaprice said:


> Ah, I see... I'll have to decide upon the supplies I have. Do most hardware stores carry rigid airline tubing?
> And how would I install the bleed valve into the rigid airline tube? Thanks


I got the rigid airline tubing I used at my LFS. I don't think any hardware store would have it. For a bleed valve, try looking at the drip irrigation fittings at the hardware store. They use little shutoff valves in those systems. Then you could either use a rigid plastic tube that would allow a short piece of flexible tubing to connect between that valve and the reactor, or you could look for a reducer barb fitting to adapt to the different diameters. I have found that I have to just stare at and play with hardware items in the store to figure out how to make connections like that. Asking a sales person sometimes helps, but they usually won't talk to me when I mention an aquarium.


----------



## gotcheaprice

Alright, thanks. Yeah, sort of awkward to ask them for something and they ask you what're you're gonna sue it for, and I saw fish tank, they're like wtf  And they don't really help much after since I guess it's harder to find what I really need.


----------



## ponyrandy

gotcheaprice said:


> And ponyrider, I was wonder exactly where is your bleed valve? I only see the water inlet and co2 inlet on top of your reactor. Thanks!
> 
> http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/attachment.php?attachmentid=5148&d=1186635916
> 
> I just teed off of the inlet fitting. That is the co2 coming in on the right of the T and the bleed valve on the left. I have an Eheim Ecco and the only time I use the valve is after the filter is primed I bleed the air out of the top of the reactor. I'm sure if I would just let it go, it would dissipate, but it makes a splashing sound with the air bubble up there so I just bleed it out.
> 
> Like Hoppy said, I too was afraid of gluing unlike materials and chancing coming home to a floor full of water. One of the goals when I built mine was to make it as bullet proof as possible, so I opted for everything being brass outside of the PVC reactor. Also everything has a threaded connection. The brass connector between the T and the co2 inlet is actually an in-line check valve because I did not want water to be able to come out in the event of a failure in the co2 tubing.
> 
> There has been much debate on where to introduce the co2 into the reactor. I went under the theory that if you want the bubbles to float up into the reactor, why not introduce the gas as high up as possible to insure no bubbles get blown out the bottom. By injecting the gas at the most turbulent point in the reactor, this helps dissipate the gas and gives it more hang time in the body of the reactor. Like was discussed earlier though, if you don't have bubbles coming out of the return line, your reactor is doing it's job.
> 
> I have to say, this design has worked flawlessly for me and there is not one thing that I would change if I were to build another one. It definitely is not the cheapest one to build, but my main goals were performance and dependability. Looking forward to pictures when you get yours done.
> 
> Brian


----------



## gotcheaprice

Ah, I see. Yeah, I am afraid of water leaking and my mom making me rid of all my tanks. 
How much did it cost in total to build yours with the brass parts? And did you get all of it at home depot? I think the bleed valve will work the same way hoppys is supposed to. 
Are there parts that I could tee off a bleed valve and inlet for co2 without brass to save a bit of money? 
Thanks!


----------



## ponyrandy

I was also curious has to how much it cost but never sat still long enough to figure it out. I will try to make that a project this weekend and will post the cost. One way to save a lot is to use plain old white PVC for the body, as the clear was rather expensive, but I think it was well worth it to be able to watch it work. Home depot and Lowes had most of the common stuff but I wound up buying a lot of stuff off of the internet from places that were recommended on this site. I will try and post that info too. I think that all of this stuff could definitely be substituted for plastic to save $, I just liked the durability of the brass.
Brian


----------



## j_m_lizard

I made this years ago when setting up my 37 gallon - found plans on The Krib. it works great, and it was cheap and easy to make! I paid a few extra bucks, and bought a 2" union fitting and installed it in the middle of the reactor body, so I can actually take mine apart and clean it if necessary. I have it on the intake side of my filter, since I've found it greatly decreases flow when put on the output side.

-Jared


----------



## gotcheaprice

Last time I went to home depot, there wasn't really any short PVC pipes. They were all long like 10-15 or something like that D:. I only saw a bunch of T's connectors etc. Was I looking in the wrong place? Also, they won't have clear pvc piping will they?


----------



## hoppycalif

Clear PVC is a product made primarily for the food industry, if I recall correctly, so hardware stores don't usually stock it. You can order short lengths of it on the internet. Regular PVC pipe is available in short lengths at smaller local hardware stores, in my experience, but not at building supply places like Home Depot.


----------



## ponyrandy

Okay, I finally found all of the receipts so here is a parts list, a supplier list, and a price list:










1. ( I originally bought a female hose barb fitting to go directly on the check valve but the barb was
too small, so it was replaced with a male hose barb fitting and a coupler)
1/4" brass coupler 1.93
1/4" MPT x 1/8" brass hose barb 2.36

2. 1/4" MPT x 1/4" MPT brass compact ball check valve 15.09

3. 1/4" MPT x 1/4" FPT x 1/4" FPT brass tee 2.74

4. 1/4" MPT x 1/4" FPT miniature brass ball valve 11.40

5. 1/2" MPT x 1/4" FPT brass reducer 2.46

6. 1/2" MPT x 1/2" hosebarb brass nipple 2.83

7. 1" x 1/2" FPT PVC reducer .73

8. 1" x 1" x 1/2" FPT PVC elbow 1.84

9. 1" x 2 1/4" long piece of PVC pipe (had to buy 10' piece) 3.11

10. 2" x 1" PVC reducer 1.12

11. 2" PVC coupler .92

12. 2" x 8" long clear PVC pipe (had to buy 12") 9.44

13. 1/2" MPT x 1/2" hosebarb brass nipple 2.83

14. 1/2" brass street elbow 5.58

15. 2" x 1/2" FPT PVC reducer 1.10

16. 2" x 2" x 2" PVC sanitary tee 1.44

17. 2" PVC clean out 1.68

PVC cement 1.94

Sales Tax 2.65

Shipping Charges 15.20
____________

*GRAND TOTAL* 88.69

The clear PVC pipe (12) was ordered through Aquatic Eco-Systems, Inc.
(www.aquaticeco.com)

The check valve (2), the brass tee (3), and the ball valve (4) were all ordered from McMaster-Carr.
(www.mcmaster.com)

Everything else was purchased locally from Lowe's.

Brian


----------



## hoppycalif

If I remember correctly my reactor price list was similar to yours. It always seems to be the smallest detail parts that jack the price up. In the simplest form this reactor is still very cheap - it is the little details that make it better that also raise the price.


----------



## ponyrandy

Yeah, I agree Hoppy. I could have saved $15 by not getting the fancy check valve, but I feel better with it. Using regular PVC instead of clear could have saved another $20 when you consider the $15 worth of shipping it took to get it. Using plastic 1/4" and 1/2" fittings would have saved at least another $15, but again I feel a lot better with the brass. When I built mine, I went for what I thought was the best, and I feel like it was a bargain for what I got, not to mention the fun I had designing and building it. Its funny though, someone will spend $200+ for a great cannister filter, another $200+ for a top notch co2 system, but when it comes to the reactor no one wants to spend over $25. But on the other hand, its ok to drop $50 on the latest ADA diffuser.  
Brian


----------



## ponyrandy

Okay, so I just looked at the prices for ADA diffusers.:jaw: My reactor really is a bargain!
Brian


----------



## gotcheaprice

Alrighty, my mom is finally letting me order the co2 regulator. I'm gonna be order the solenoid version from rex grigg(though I'm really really tempted to order the manual one, persuade me someone!), and gonna build my reactor soon.
I'm also gonna order this bubble counter from aq magic
http://cgi.ebay.com/Gamba-XII-Japan...hZ015QQcategoryZ66794QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
Also tempted to get a rhinox 5000 since I like the looks of a diffuser xD


----------



## Rex Grigg

ponyrandy.

That's a LOT of parts. I have a design with only 7 parts. And I can build several reactors for what you spent. And I have no brass parts.

Wow. Almost $90 for a DIY reactor. That's got to be a record.


----------



## JAXON777

How would I modify the reactor plans for say a 450 gph filter (xp4) or a 950 gph filter (fx5). Do I just make it longer? Wider? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
JAX


----------



## hoppycalif

The body of the reactor is a much larger diameter than the inlet hose to slow down the water flow giving the CO2 enough time to dissolve into the water. So, the higher the flow rate the larger the diameter should be. I suspect 2 1/2" diameter is the biggest you would ever need.


----------



## ngb2322

Very nice reactor....I am switching from a wet/dry to an xP3 tomorrow, and I just happen to have bio-balls handy. Question though, A points to the ceiling and J to the ground, and L is the CO2 input. The flow of water then brings the CO2 bubble into the reactor and it wants to go up, but the water is going down, increasing contact time with the water thanks to the turbulence created by the bioballs. Just trying to understand how it works, lemme know if I got the gist of it...


----------



## ponyrandy

You have got the idea of how it works down, but there is debate about the use of bio-balls. I personally agree with others who believe that the bio-balls just restrict the flow through the reactor and serve no purpose.
Brian


----------



## JERP

I used one of these as a CO2 inlet valve on my diy reactor. The second valve is used as an air bleed. 4 years and no problems.

Just thought I'd share the knowledge.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100129445&N=10000003+527952+90048


----------



## ngb2322

Pony--
It is interesting that you say that, because I just happened to put this whole thing together and forgot to put in the bio-balls. Guess I'll try it with out them, because although this was incredibly easy to put together, I suck with PVC primer and glue. One more thing -- I feel like I dripped the PVC primer and cement all over the inside and out side of the PVC. Is it inert once its try, i.e. I don't have to clean out the inside of the reactor of the dried goop? Also, to make it look a little better on the outside, any way to clean it off, or should I just go for the spray paint....


----------



## hoppycalif

Some building codes allow PVC pipe to be used for household water that is drinkable, so I doubt that dried PVC cement or primer are hazardous in any way. And, when you get water on it before it is dry it just comes off in a thin sheet of gummy plastic. I don't think even plumbers take much care to keep the cement from running all over the place. Those guys go fast, not meticulous.


----------



## ponyrandy

Yeah like hoppy said, it is safe for humans, so I can't imagine it would hurt the fish. As far as cleaning it off though, I don't know of any way to do that because the cement actually 'melts' the pipe, so its not just a matter of removing it. As a reminder for anyone who hasn't built one yet, be sure and buy the CLEAR primer, not the PURPLE one. As far as the bio-balls, if you have no bubbles coming out into the tank, the reactor is doing it's job and I would certainly not put them in and slow the flow down. One more side note, it has been said here before that the expensive clear PVC is not necesary, and its not, it doesn't make it work any better, but with the clear PVC by shining a flashlight behind the reactor, you can actually watch it work and the bubbles dissipate, so you can see exactly how well it is working.
Brian


----------



## jmontee

Has anyone had any problems with filling the chamber of an inline reactor. I have it plumbed into the inlet of my canister and I can't get the air out of it. I am planning to DIY a plastic valve at the tube that connects the tube from the tank to the reactor so that I can open it and close it once it is filled. Any suggestions?


----------



## hoppycalif

jmontee said:


> Has anyone had any problems with filling the chamber of an inline reactor. I have it plumbed into the inlet of my canister and I can't get the air out of it. I am planning to DIY a plastic valve at the tube that connects the tube from the tank to the reactor so that I can open it and close it once it is filled. Any suggestions?


The reactor is much better on the outlet of the filter, not the inlet. But, even there, I have had to install a bleed valve on top of mine so my Rena XP3 filter will prime properly. Without it the gas trapped in the reactor keeps the priming from working.  I think the same fix would work with the reactor in the inlet line.


----------



## clogstonian

Hey, i really enjoy DIY apparatus just for the sake of DIY but what is the issue with a simple CO2 feed line tapped into the canister intake? I'm running a XP2 on a 40g and haven't had any issues over the past 4 months, good CO2 levels . . . . am i missing something or it merely the skinning of the cat philosophy?

-thanks


----------



## hoppycalif

There are several ways to get CO2 into the water. The external reactor is an efficient way. Adding CO2 to the inlet of a canister filter works fine when it works fine. Other times, with other filters, it can "airlock" the filter pump, shutting off the water flow. It also can, with some filters, burp big masses of bubbles periodically. And, some people think it damages the filter pump rotor when done for a long time. But there are disadvantages to every method for adding CO2.


----------



## CobraGuppy

Hi, i have some questions about making a reactor.. I read through pages 10-here (and the 1st post) but some of it doesn't make since because the pictures don't show.

Here is a pic of my model: (it isn't glued yet)









I use 2 2 liter bottles of diy c02 and an xp3 if that helps.. The thing would be vertical of course. The inlet would be on the left (top if in use) and the outlet would be on the right of the pic (bottom)

The 45 degree angle is where the c02 would come in. Its reduced down to barb that can grip the airline tubing.

Is this model effecient? It measures to 15 inches.

I just see a lot of people drilling holes and although i would prefer not to drill holes, is it better? The thing i am afraid of with this model is that the water will go down the 45 degree part and make to much pressure, not letting the c02 out. If i changed that part to a 90 degree angle tee, would that help?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## ponyrandy

Looks like it should work just fine the way it is. The co2 has more pressure than the water so that won't be a problem. The only thing I would do different is change out the co2 barb for a check valve so that no water can get into the co2 line. My fear is if the hose blows off or bursts, it will drain the tank. 
Brian


----------



## CobraGuppy

Hm, where can i get a check valve for that spot? Because the tubing goes in like 1/2 inch and its pretty hard to pull out. I was thinking of just putting a check valve right before the it goes in.

So it would be this order: Brass barb thing > small piece of tubing > check valve > tubing to c02 and mixture.


----------



## ponyrandy

Thats the way just about everyone does it and I have never heard of anyone having a problem. But, if that line should fail, it will drain the tank. That short piece of tubing can fail just as easily as a long piece. I got my check valve from www.mcmaster.com.
Brian


----------



## CobraGuppy

I was able to get a coupling 
I think i might silicon the tubing to the joints that are before the check valve.

Oh yeah, i just remembered. When i was reading through this thread, i think it was you who said that you shouldn't use Purple primer. Why is that? I couldn't find any clear primer and so the only one i have is purple.

Thanks for any help


----------



## ponyrandy

Purple primer works fine, it just makes everything purple. The clear primer just makes a nicer looking job. Both Lowe's and Home Depot carry it, it should be right next to the purple. 
Brian


----------



## CobraGuppy

Oh, i'm not really worried about aesthetics  I'll just make to sure to always keep my stand closed.

Thanks !


----------



## derringer

Are these reactors running before the intake of your canisters? I know if the slightest bit of air gets into my eheim 2026 it starts to slurp - seems it might be wiser to set them up on the outake side ...

Anyone?


----------



## hoppycalif

I think most of us have this reactor in the filter output line, never the input line. One good reason for this is to keep it cleaner - why run dirty water through it?


----------



## derringer

hoppycalif said:


> I think most of us have this reactor in the filter output line, never the input line. One good reason for this is to keep it cleaner - why run dirty water through it?


Yes I agree thats another good reason ... just seemed like I was seeing diagrams showing entry into the reactors at the top (vertical orientation) which would seem to indicate intake side of things. Maybe I had read/seen something wrong or maybe not ...

If mounted inline I would want the reactor above the outake so that I could minimize the looping the water flow had to do. That would mean water & co2 would/should be entering the bottom of the reactors - dont see many diagrams indicating that.


----------



## hoppycalif

The reactor works well because of the counter flow arrangement. The water flows down from top to bottom, as the CO2 bubbles float up to the top, keeping them in contact long enough for much of the CO2 to dissolve in the water. If you run the water from bottom to top it just sweeps the bubbles out and deposits them in the tank where most of the CO2 is lost to the air.


----------



## derringer

hoppycalif said:


> The reactor works well because of the counter flow arrangement. The water flows down from top to bottom, as the CO2 bubbles float up to the top, keeping them in contact long enough for much of the CO2 to dissolve in the water. If you run the water from bottom to top it just sweeps the bubbles out and deposits them in the tank where most of the CO2 is lost to the air.


Ok - I think I understand now ... thanks.


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## jtburf

Forgive me for not reading all 203 replies but has anybody added an air stone to the inside of the reactor?

Getting ready to build one and I'm wondering if it would aid in disolving the CO2 bubbles.

John


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## hoppycalif

Several years ago I built a reactor with an air stone inside to help dissolve the CO2. It wasn't designed like this one, but it worked similarly. The airstone eventually got plugged with biofilm, and finally just disintegrated entirely. If you try this, be sure to allow for a method to replace the airstone periodically.


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## jtburf

One more question why do you limit your size to 2" diameter?

Do you gain or lose anything by building in a larger diameter to allow for more bio balls?


John


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## hoppycalif

The goal is to have slow flow through the reactor, not stagnant water, which a much larger diameter pipe would cause. All the bioballs do is slow the passage of the CO2 bubbles, to allow more time for them to dissolve in the water. But, they also add to the water flow restriction, which is not a good thing. A few is all that are needed. In fact many of us don't use anything in that tube.


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## jtburf

Thanks,

John


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## chagovatoloco

Dose using brass have any adverse effects on water chemistry?


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## ghengis

Sorry to bring up a rather old quote, but:



> Anyone found a cost-effective alternative for the clear tube? It's $40 for an 8' section at mcmaster-carr....


Has anyone considered raiding a gravel vac for the clear bit of tube, rather than spending big bucks on 6 or 8 feet of pipe you'd only use 6" of once, and end up wasting the rest?? I've been staring lustfully at mine, ever since first reading this Thread. I even considered buying two more vac's and using the two hose adapter bit's on either end of one tube. Would need to remove the flow gate from inside first, though... Just not sure how well it'd seal is all...


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## chagovatoloco

I looked at my gravel vac but the plastic was way to flimsy for me. And a tom pointed out you can buy the clear pvc here. The price is affordable as well. Now about that brass.........


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## SpeedEuphoria

brass can leech copper and zinc
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dezincification

Most people say to not use it if you can help it, while there are some people that use it and report no issues. I personally choose to just pay more to get plastic fittings


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## chagovatoloco

Well I have shrimp in the tank so I don't think the brass will due. Thank you for you reply.


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## chagovatoloco

Will stainless steel have and problems? I have a 1/8 pipe to 3/16 barb I would like to due for the co2 inlet.


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## ghengis

chagovatoloco said:


> And a tom pointed out you can buy the clear pvc here.


Yes, that's all well and good, except that "There" is over there and not here.

Therefore, one must improvise...


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## nirutlee

Very nice....


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## Thever

I have some 2" clear pvc available- 1 4' piece, willing to chop it up. $9 a foot plus shipping.


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## greenman

When is it safe to place new DIY reactor inline?

So, I've got the reacter set up, glued together, everything looks great, and yes it holds water without leaking. Unfortunately, it smells like a toxic bomb. If I were to put it inline right know my fish and plants would end up huffing Methyl ethyl Ketone. 

How long do you all think I should wait before introducing the reactor?


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## Thever

After about an hour, I ran a few gallons of water thru it, hooked it up and had no issues. YMMV

Any ideas on how to cut down on bubbling out of the spraybar, seems its not diffusing totally before exiting. I didnt put anything in the reactor, but looks like I may have wanted to do so.


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## chagovatoloco

the bubbling should stop after a few days


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## greenman

So, nobody was worried about the smell and contaminating the tank?


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## Thever

as long as you rinse it out good, it will be fine. 

My reactor has been running for over 2 weeks. I moved it from my output of my 2213 to my intake side. Still is happening, just more 'burps' instead of a steady stream of bubbles.


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## angusshippey

My latest handy work










I mixed these 2 designs that I liked


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## chagovatoloco

very nice, what is on the inside?


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## angusshippey

It looks like a polypropylene material.
Both are German designs.
I'm struggling to find it in Africa


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## KeithG3255

It looks like Kmac also sells it by the foot. Also, polycarbonate has a 18+ izod, or 9 times stronger than acrylic. http://kmac-distribution.com/Plastics/polycarbonate-tubes.htm


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