# Seeking help fighting BGA and hair algae...



## AndyT. (Jun 28, 2006)

My turn to ask for help. My aquarium is simply being overrun by algae, primarily cyanobacteria (BGA) and hair algae. Details below and questions at the bottom.

*Hardware*
Aquarium: 110 gallon/416 liter Oceanic, 60.5" x 18.5" x 23" (152.4 x 46.99 x 58.42cm)
Filtration: HOT Magnum 250 by Marineland, HOB Aquamaster 450
Light: 4 x 110w VHO URI Aquasun lamps (five months old) run by IceCap 660 ballast
CO2: 5lb pressurized CO2 canister, about 2 bubbles per second, diffused through ceramic diffuser.
Substrate: ½ Seachem Flourite, ½ silica gravel about 2" deep (shallower in front, much deeper in back)

*Livestock*
Plants: Alternathera Red Temple x 5, Egaria densa x 6, Eleocharis acicularis (mostly completely overgrown by hair algae, presumed dead), Compacta Amazon (Echinodorus bleheri v. "Robustus") x 10, Cuban Broadleaf Chain (Echinodorus quadricostatus) x 10

Fish: Cardinal Tetras x 12, SAE's x 3, Golden Algae Eater x 1, Flying Fox x 1, Clown pleco x 1, Clown Loach x 1, Garra Pingi Pingi x 1, Otocynclus x 6?

Shrimp: Amano shrimp x 70, Cherry shrimp x 50

Snails: about 20 nerites

*Current Parameters:*
Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.03ppm
Nitrate: 16.72ppm
pH: 7.23
KH: 5.7
Phosphate: 2.74ppm

*Maintenance*
Fertilizing: I am currently using the EI and dosing 1.5 tsp KNO3 and 0.5 KH2PO4 three times per week and 2 caps (label dose) of Seachem's Flourish and Flourish Iron three times per week. Then I do a 50% water change once per week. I have been following this routine for about 4 weeks.

*History of Aquarium*
This aquarium was set up five months ago. The idea was an Amazon based planted aquarium. The plan was to pretty much plant the entire substrate all at once. Due to problems with the online store I ordered plants from, I wound up planting only about 60-65% of the substrate instead. At that time I was only using Flourish and Flourish Iron as fertilizer. Hair algae attacked rapidly.

I started to buy algae eaters and appeared to be winning - briefly. Very briefly. At that point I visited Aquatic Plant Central and began to relearn all I had forgotten about aquatic plants.

When I started the EI doising, I was planning that within a week I would have lots of stem plants to help out with the algae. Due to hospitalization of a child, work travel and financial constraints, that has not happened yet. That is still the plan. I have reduced the photoperiod to ten hours from twelve.

*Questions*

Should I stop or reduce EI fertilizing until algae is gone? If the answer is reduce, how much should I reduce it - by half?
Is adding rapidly growing stem plants the next step?
Should I cut the photoperiod to eight hours?
Should I toss the plants that are covered with hair algae now - mostly the hairgrass? :frusty: 
I'm trying to avoid using Chemi-clean against BGA. What options do I have and should I try shutting off the lights completely for a couple of days?

Any and all observations and suggestions are welcome!

Thanks!


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## werner (Jul 6, 2006)

How bad is the BGA? It doesn't sound like it's reached plague proportions yet (been there, done that.) Try to remove as much as possible manually- vacuum up any loose bits too. BGA seems to be inhibited by good water circulation, so you may want to add a small powerhead or adjust your filter flow. I'd also suggest decreasing your photoperiod to 8 hours. If it's all over the place, you can try a blackout too; 3 or 4 days with the tank completely covered. And yes, throw in a bunch of fast growing stem plants. If any spots of BGA are returning, you can give them a little zap of hydrogen peroxide from a syringe. About BGA: The Skeptical Aquarist

I have had good results using Flourish Excel against hair algae: manual removal, then 2x the recommended dosage. This was in a 5 gal tank, though, so you might want to try spot-shots of it where needed since your tank is a little bigger 

I'm not an EI user, but your fert levels seem to be fine; keep going with it. Your CO2 appears to be way too low, however. By the CO2 charts, you have less then 10ppm of CO2 (you want 20-30ppm.) Let your tank water sit out for a day, then measure the pH. Increase your CO2 to get the pH 1 full point lower (monitor fish while doing this.)

If $$ are still an issue, I'm sure you could get plenty of stem plants for cheap/free- just put a wanted ad in the sale forum here.

Hope that helps.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I agree with Werner. Especially you need to jack up the CO2. Bubble rates are not very meaningful not knowing the size of the bubbles, but my bubble counter shows at least 4 bubbles per second now, and the Barr Internal Venturi reactor I use shows about 2 big bubbles per second. That is on a tank less than half the size of yours. The venturi type reactor seems to be nearly 100% efficient in dissolving CO2 also. A ceramic diffuser, in my experience isn't that efficient.

I would say you have too much light for a tank with algae problems. So, why not cut back the number of bulbs in half and reduce the photo period to about 8 hours?

You do need to remove as much algae as you can, mechanically. Either comb it out, pull it out, or prune the infected leaves. Trying to save badly infected leaves doesn't normally work - the leaves just die and rot later. And, adding a lot more fast growing stem plants will be helpful too, until you get the algae under control. But, don't stop or even greatly reduce the fertilizing. The plants need that to grow and be able to absorb all of the ammonia spikes that occur.


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## AndyT. (Jun 28, 2006)

Thank you very much! I know feel that I have a plan of action.

First, cut photoperiod to 8 hours (unfortunately the Icecap ballast will want all four bulbs running)

Second, manually remove harvest all cyano and hair algae I can.

Third, crank up the CO2

Fourth, add stem plants

Five, maintain fertilization

Six, use spot treatments on Hydrogen Peroxide on BGA.

I am a little nervous about using Seachem's Excel due to reports of cherry shrimp dying so I will hold that in reserve as a backup method for treating the algae.

Still, I feel much better with a plan of action. Thank you.


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## guppy (Mar 7, 2004)

For BGA I noticed my tank started getting some so I got some Marycn #1 and added a couple packs in and add more KNO3 to the tank all disappeared a few days later. Hope this helps out a little.


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## treesmcdonald (Mar 14, 2006)

I had great luck with Hydrogen Peroxide on hair algae. I also added some flag fish and they did a good job too. I actually saw them eat it with my own eyes, so I know that they at least put a dent in it. I did have to give up on my java moss and rip it out so at least you don't have any of that in your tank to worry about. I


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## Skelley (Mar 4, 2006)

*Sorry to hijack your thread.*

I am having the same problems with my tank. But I am very happy that it is minimal and it is not bga. So I almost feel like I am winning the war on algae. I am chalking it up to diy co2 and not being able to get stable/correct levels. How much peroxide do you folks use? My tank has rummynose and I know they are sensitive. I don't know if high levels will kill them but I don't want to take chances.

my bba is on the java and a little hair on both that and the riccia. Is the java a lost cause? Does it have to be removed manually? Or will correct ferts/co2 make it disappear?


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