# How to (sort of) make an AH supply encloser with adjustable legs



## cousinkenni (Jan 24, 2005)

*How to (sort of) make an AH supply enclosure with adjustable legs*

I don't know if anyone has done this before or posted on it but I discovered this by accident back in December.

The story goes that I originally ordered a 36" 96w custom sealife lighting system with the legs. Well the online company originally sent me a set of Coralife legs (the same ones used on the aqualight). Long story short I got the right legs and got to keep the coralife legs.

About 8months later (now December) I decided to set up a 24" 20 gallon tank so I ordered an AH supply 2X55watt system. I didn't like how the light wasn't getting any airflow or how it was heating up my tank (sitting right on top of the glass). I decided I wanted to put legs on the enclosure I made for the AH supply system. Just so happened that I had the extra set of Coralife legs sitting around.

When I took some measurements of the Coralife legs, I found that it needed a slot with a small width of 8mm and a large width of at least 12mm you have to see an Aqualight or own a set of legs to understand how they work. After some research I found that I could buy a Keyhole router bit with these approximate dimensions.

Special items needed for construction:

1) White side or similar keyhole router bit w/:
½" large diameter
5/16" small diameter
¼ shank (can use the ½"shank also)
7/16" cutting length (minimum)
1 ½" overall length (minimum)

2) Router

3) Coralife aqualight mounting legs

4) All other tools suggested to build a DIY AH supply lighting enclosure (For more information visit www.ahsupply.com

Special instructions for build:

1) Build to specifications as AH suplly recommends with 1 modifiactions. Instead of using 4"X¼" wood for the sides, use 4"X1/2" wood for all 4 sides.

2) Set the router bit in the router so the lowest cutting edge cuts into the wood at a depth of 7-8mm. This will give you a lip of approximately 3mm. (this part takes some adjusting the first time so practice on a 1X4 or similar extra scrap wood).

3) When performing the actual cut use a guide (such as an extra piece of wood) by tacking it to the enclosure (where to tack it depends on how high or low you want the enclosure to sit above the water surface and the shape of the router you are using). It is very hard if not impossible to cut a straight line without this guide. Take note in the picture that the slot was cut roughly 17mm from the bottom of the enclosure. If you would like the light closer to the water surface then increase this distance. If you would like it farther from the water surface, decrease this distance (I wouldn't decrease it by much maybe 5-10 mm at most you need some wood toward the bottom to support the weight of the lighting system)

I personally cut the slot a length of at least 11cm but you can cut more if needed.

If you guys have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Sorry for the crappy description of how it is done. I hope the pictures clear some things up.


































Thanks,

Ken T.


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## titan97 (Feb 14, 2005)

Great idea. Another reason why the router is the most versitle tool in a woodworker's shop.

-Dustin


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## Aaron (Feb 12, 2004)

Well done, now lets see some shots of the tank!!!


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

Pretty cool. Anyone else have any ideas of how to make this type of leg supported AH enclosure? I don't have a router.


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