# Filter and CO2 for 30gal?



## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

Hi all, newbie here  I've had a planted 30gal tank with moderate success for about a year now. I'm in the process of redoing the tank. I've learned a lot on here in the past week or so, but I'm feeling a little overwhelmed and could use some expert advice!

I have an Emperor 400 and am not happy with it. I'd prefer something with less surface disturbance and more circulation in the lower half of the tank. Particularly since I'm using DIY CO2 and have high pH to begin with (7.6-7.8 )--I need that CO2! Is a canister filter overkill for a 30gal tank? What would you recommend?

I have DIY CO2 running in my tank, two bottles. I might be willing to spring for a C02 system in the future, but again, is that overkill for a tank this size? If not, what should I consider?

I'm not rolling in money here, but I am willing to spend good money to see this tank flourish. I just don't want to spend money on something I don't need!


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

My tank is about that size. I use pressurized CO2 and don't regret it in the least. It is not overkill. I tried a Fluval 104 filter for a couple of months or so and didn't like the constant problems trying to keep the inlet open - debris, snails and leaves kept clogging it. And, the flow wasn't sufficient to keep up a good circulation of water. So, now I use a Maxijet 600 powerhead with a sponge on the inlet, with my CO2 tube stuck thru the sponge into the sponge support grid. I get a good CO2 mist throughout the tank, good, if not too much circulation, and no worries about clogging. After about a month this is working very well. I wouldn't try this with DIY CO2 because the extra surface movement does dissipate CO2, causing me to just about double my bubble rate to keep up.


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## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

Thanks Hoppy, that's good to know. I will look for that powerhead, or a similar model. I was thinking after doing some reading that a powerhead might be a better option.

Should I look at any particular CO2 system? I'm not mechanically inclined, so I'd prefer an "all-in-one" kit that I can just set up. But I suppose that costs a lot more (?).


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

All in one regulators are the cheapest way to go - Milwaukee or JBJ brand, but not by a lot. Try Rex Griggs website for a much better assembly: http://www.rexgrigg.com/sale.html. You have to email him to order. While you are at his website spend some time reading up on the basics - it is all good information.


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## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

Thanks, this is really helpful. What about this set-up? Do you think it's worth the money?


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

On my 30G tank I have pressurized C02 (10lb) setup along with a Fluval 304 for filtration. Nether of these are overkill for this tank, works out very well.

I got the C02 cylinder from a local restaurant supply store and bought my regulator from our sponsor AquaBuys. I bought a clippard needle valve off of another member of this forum. The filter I bought from Big Als.


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## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

OK, I ordered this set-up. I'm psyched to get it! It seems reasonably priced with quality parts, and hopefully I won't have too much trouble getting it up and running.

Do I need anything else to go with it? Should I buy calbration solution? How does that work?

Now I just need to find a place that sells/fills CO2 bottles. There's a beverage distributor nearby that probably does.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The calibration solution is for pH probes. You can get pH 7.01, 4.01, 10.01 etc. solutions and use them to set the probe so it is accurate thru its entire range.


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## DJKronik57 (Apr 17, 2006)

I went the powerhead route for my 29 gallon as well, using an AquaClear 30 with the quick filter attachment. I just popped the bottom out of the quick filter cage and put my DIY yeast CO2 tube up in there like Hoppy. 

However, I think I will purchase a canister filter. The original filter material that came with the quick filter was clogged in a matter of days, and even now when I use coarse filter floss it needs to be removed and repacked every week to two weeks or flow really suffers and the tank becomes dirty. That and even in a 29 gallon, the powerhead and filter take up too much space and are too ugly. I will admit, it does make a perfect CO2 diffusor! :thumbsup: 

Hoppy, do you have to rinse out your sponge to keep flow rates normal?


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

yes you will have to rinse out the sponge of the waste material. just run it under some running water and squeeze out that fish poop . just do that when you do your normal tank maintenance depending on how clogged it gets.


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## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

Well, I definitely splurged--in the past few days, I ordered a CO2 regulator, new CF bulb (96W daylight dual 6500K/10000K), Eheim 2213 canister filter, 2L bottle of Flourish Excel, and Hydor inline heater. Whew! 

I've got some new plants on the way from several sources, so I really hope the new equipment makes a difference! I'm tired of growing algae...


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## Glouglou (Feb 21, 2006)

*Hi!*



abnormalsanon said:


> OK, I ordered this set-up. I'm psyched to get it! It seems reasonably priced with quality parts, and hopefully I won't have too much trouble getting it up and running.
> 
> Do I need anything else to go with it? Should I buy calbration solution? How does that work?
> 
> Now I just need to find a place that sells/fills CO2 bottles. There's a beverage distributor nearby that probably does.


the set-up you buy resemble the Milwaukee set-up I have. Be very careful with the bubble counter, mine was crack in a month. The only problem is the needle valve that is coarse and don't let me have the control I like to have. Maybe yours is better. Anyway I will soon change the needle valve for a Fabco that offer more control
http://www.wcf.com/co2iron/
and I'm changing the bubble counter for a DIY PVC bubble counter.

I don't really believe in those PH controllers, I think they are way to expensive and not to reliable.

I have a complete control with my solenoid valve on a simple inexpensive timer. I can start my Co2 anytime before my light come on and shut it off when I want. All that plus the amount of CO2 you inject and you can achieve whatever you want.

For the tank Buy a 10 pound tank from A beverage/home brewer company and you will be in business.

One primordial point is to dissolve the CO2 without wasting it. Personally I choose a DIY external reactor powered by a maxi-jet pump outside the tank. This bring good dissolution and optimal use of the gas and give more water movement to the Tank (good for the Prandtl boundary)

Good luck


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## bergzy (Feb 18, 2006)

i am by far a hardcore freshwater plant aquarist...i keep fw plants as a wonderful gigression from my main aquairum hobby of reef populated mainly by corals with a little fish...

i have a 29g tank that has been growing very nicely (except for some light nuisance algae)...

here is my equipment set up...

- 29g glass tank...got rid of the hood
- 150w metal halide with 5700k bulb on a hamilton reefstar reflector with electronic ballast suspended about 12 inches above the water
- ebo-jager 150w heater
- 100% eco-complete substrate with a thin peat bottom layer
- 1 med size driftwood
- ecco 2236 canister filter (so incredibly easy to use and maintain) filled with biological substrate, coarse and fine mechanical filter
- 5lb co2 cylinder
- jbj co2 regulator
- aquamedic 1000 co2 reactor
- reef fanatic ph controller

plants are the $30 group from aquatic depot from yahoo. they are cheap for the quality of plants you get, healthy, generous in size and have grown very nicely.

fish are two med discus, 4 rummy nose tetra's, 5 serpae tetras and 6 cardinal tetra's...

i change 5-10g per week with 2/3 ro/di and 1/3 tap. chemicals i add are cycle and novaqua to the water change...um, water. i add seachem flourish every so often and flourish tabs once every 3 months.

that's about it. i trim the tank once every two months or so. yes, it does get very overgrown but my fish dont seem to mind!


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