# Dirt tank



## AKnickolai (Nov 30, 2007)

I feel like the last tank type I need to try out before I settle on what I'm going to do with my 150g is a dirt tank. The next question is MTS or MGOPM? I've read that MGOPM can get a little soupy/sludgy over time and that MTS is cleaner. It is almost winter in AK, so I'm not going to get enough sun to make anything other than frozen dirt for a while. Can it be done in a garage? Are moisture and heat all that is required or do I need light? 

To all the MGOPM users out there, are my fears of it turning to goo in 3-5 years unfounded? Do you think it is a suitable method for tank you DON'T want to redo for several years 5+?

I really like this option over MTS because I can try a dirt tank out sooner than later and don't have to give up my heated garage to a pile of dirt.


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## Skizhx (Oct 12, 2010)

I do not like MGOPM, and would not recommend it. The major reason why it's recommended is because no matter where you live, you can probably get a bag of it, and there will probably be minimal variation in what you're getting compared to what I'd be getting. It makes it easy to trouble-shoot, but you're buying something which is pretty much known to cause some problems.

Personally I would take my chances with a generic topsoil. Maybe add a small amount of pure peat moss to it. I have yet to find anything that has caused any issues, big or small. No need to mineralize.


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

I agree with Skizhx. I do not recommend MGOPM, I've seen people use it and they seem to do ok with it, but it has a much higher organic content which can cause sludgy rotting issues.

The generic topsoil option is perfect. You do not need to treat it in any way before adding it to your tank.

Here is a recent thread which might answer a lot of your questions about soil and how to do it.http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/substrates/88959-first-planted-tank-what-would-best.html


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## AKnickolai (Nov 30, 2007)

Perfect, thanks for the heads up guys. Cheap topsoil is an even easier option for me. Lowes and Home Deopot don't have Scotts up here, and I don't even think they stock garden stuff past September. I'll find something though, if nothing else I have a pile of soil that I work over for gardening projects every year. Could probably dig some good stuff up.


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

Just make sure it isn't made mostly of leaves and organics. You don't want compost you want the sandy/clay like soil under the surface.


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## Skizhx (Oct 12, 2010)

I've tried a few brands of generic topsoils. Some brands like "Scotts", and others less knowns local brands.

Personally I've had a very hard time inducing problems in anything I've gotten my hands on. MGOPS on the other hand I had problems with every single time.

I was never able to actually cause an unstable setup using a random brand of topsoil. I never mineralized (but mineralization does have its applications), but I also never did anything ridiculous like 50% organics or 70% clay.

With that said, I would gamble on an unknown generic topsoil if I had the option. Of course, as already mentioned, you're looking for topsoil, not compost. "Rich" "Dark" and "Organic" are all things to be weary of.


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## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

For an extensive discussion of this, read http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/84918-suitable-soils-walstad-method.html

I agree that MGOC is not the best option.

On mineralization, it is the wet-to-dry cycle that does the work, not sunlight. Whatever soil you use, but sure to remove large chunks of organic matter (wood, mulch, etc.) You can do this by passing the soil through a screen, or by soaking the soil and skimming off the "floaters".

If you can't mineralize, a lot can be accomplished by soaking and draining the soil several times. This is quicker, less messy, and requires less room.


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## AKnickolai (Nov 30, 2007)

I have a test tank set up right now. The top soil that I could get was pretty crummy, when I was rinsing it about 50% of it was twigs and wood chips. When I was done, there wasn't much left but some marble sized rocks, sand, and possibly clay. I mixed it 50/50 with Turface and capped with some inert aquarium gravel I had. I did add about 2 grams of Osmocote grains under the dirt, which may not have been the best idea (or I used too much) since my ammonia levels rise to 2 ppm in 24 hours if I don't to a water change.

I'm really thinking I should just go dig a hole in my yard for the dirt, the 50% wood content of the top soil was a bummer. In most areas around here the first 1-2ft is a a peat bog, high in organics. Then you get down into more clay/silt looking soil that is brown or grey/green depending where you dig (yeah, I do a lot of back yard gardening too). I've never had the soil that deep down tested for nutrients, so I'm not sure how rich they are. Anyone ever dig up soil from their back yard before? Maybe mix in some Osmocote and peat for long term nutrients?


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

Yes use garden soil. I'm not sure you need osmocote tabs though
If the soil is not pure clay then it should work.


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## AKnickolai (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks for the help guys! I've got a 10 gallon set up using soil from my back yard, we'll see how it goes. I also used the leftover dirt to start a smaller 5 gallon bowl. With all the nutrients coming from the dirt, can you still grow stem plants well? I'd assume so, just slower to start until they develop their roots a bit?


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

Yes you got it. Slower start but you can grow them perfectly once they tap into the soil. Can grow even the picky ones like the neseas.


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