# Need help identify black edges on plants



## budoreo (Feb 26, 2014)

I got new plants in which they are it appears that the edges of the plats are die. These are all new plants that are less than a week old. I have Excel and Flourish comprehensive that i use as recommend. The ph level is 7.6 .50 ammonia, nitrates at 40 and nitrites are 0. This is a new fish tank thats been cycled less than a week so far. I been using stress zyme and stress coat as recommended as well. I am not sure if this is just because the plants are in a new tank or if i am lacking iron or potassium? The substrate is flormax 3 inches, and 2 inches of white sand. i have two 55/75 gallons filtration for my 46 gallon tank. I also have Fluval Daylight Aqualife & Plant LED Aquarium light in the tank that is typically on from 9 am till 7 pm.


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## rjordan393 (Nov 23, 2012)

It looks like black spot algae (bsa) or it may be black beard algae (bba). The difference is the bba can be rubbed off the leaf whereas the bsa cannot. No one knows what causes either, but it is suspected that dissolved organic carbon may be the cause and there is an on going thread about bba in the algae forum under the topic of "organic analysis". We are hoping to pin it down as to cause.
Your tanks ammonia level needs to be addressed. If you add Seachems "Stability" it will add more nitrifying bacteria and speed up the cycling. I suspect you also have nitrites and your kit may be giving you a false negative. Also, white sand is not a recommended choice.


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## budoreo (Feb 26, 2014)

Hello,

Thank you for your response. i am using already stress zyme plus which is a contains bacteria that is suppose to inhibit the cycling of the tank. I already added some sechem prime to help reduce the ammonia levels. I just ordered an iron test kit, with some sechem iron and potassium. i am going to see if that makes a difference. Sechem potassium says necrosis (death/browning), and weak stems and roots.. I am guessing that the browning of the leaves could be a lack of potassium.


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## rjordan393 (Nov 23, 2012)

> i am using already stress zyme plus which is a contains bacteria that is suppose to inhibit the cycling of the tank.


I believe you mean enhance the nitrogen cycle and not inhibit. Keep in mind that most or all ammonia test kits cannot tell the difference between ammonia and ammonium. Ammonium is the safe form of ammonia. I have seen Stress Zyme in the stores but have never used it. But be aware that many products like Stress Zyme will say on the bottle it removes ammonia or de-toxifys ammonia. What really happens is that these products change ammonia into ammonium. This the preferred nutrient before nitrates. Ammonia test kits read total ammonia which is both ammonia and or ammonium. So your test kit is probally reading ammonium because at a level of 0.5 ppm ammonia, your fish should be acting irritated.
However "Seachem" has a device called "ammonia alert" that is placed in the aquarium. They claim it reads only ammonia. but there is a lag time before it will register. You may have to wait 12 to 24 hours before a reading can be taken.
Another thought, you do not indicate how many fish are in your tank. If you have fish, it may be you started out with too many fish and the nitrifying bacteria have not kept up with the load.
Trying to diagnose plant problems is even hard for the experts, but most agree that if you see pinholes on the plant surrounded by a circle of yellow is an indication that potassium is needed.
My guess on the browning is excess phosphate or excess iron.


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

Not likely to be potassium deficiency that usually shows up as pinholes.

What substrate are you using?

Do you have access to a phosphate, calcium, and GH test kit? Those readings would be helpful.

While I'm not calling it for sure the plant damage in your photos does look a bit like phosphorous deficiency. Do you have any phosphate fertilizer you can try adding? Some of the damage on the sword plant looks like phosphorous deficiency. Which tends to appear as chlorotic/necrotic edges on the leaves (not really the tip of the leaf).

Browse the Deficiency Database I'm making for more info. Unfortunately I have not finished uploading all the phosphorous deficiency photos I have yet.
http://deficiencyfinder.com/


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

If you want to speed up the cycle look for products that contain _Nitrospira_ species of bacteria. 
Do not waste your money on anything else, they have the wrong species of bacteria.

If your tap water has chlorine or chloramine (most municipal water companies add one or the other) then you want dechlorinator. Do not bother with all the other additives that some dechlor comes with. The most cost effective dechlorinators are products like Prime and Chloramine Buster. Couple of pennies to treat 10 gallons. Most of the others cost about 10 times that much, and have a lot of other additives that aquariums do not need.


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