# What if any test kit should I get for a planted tank?



## mhoy (Jun 12, 2007)

While raising killifish a number of years ago, I never tested any of the water. Raised plenty of fish from the eggs with no problems.

Now I've a 24G heavily planted tank that is about a month old and bad things are just starting to happen. I started out with purchasing a bunch of plants and heavily planting to avoid a take over from algae. I've avoided water changes over the last 3 weeks in order to help the tank cycle quicker. Two weeks ago 3 small tetras were added to help with the cycling.

Over the last couple of days, one of the plants has started bleaching out. I'll try and get a picture of this posted soon. There is a bit of brown stuff starting up in some areas. A tiny bit of hair algae is starting to appear on everything. 

The bottom is Florite and I see many roots developing into it.

I've currently no test kits and have no desire to end up with some kits I don't really need, but I'm certainly willing to invest in stuff I'll use over the next couple of years.

I'm currently considering purchasing: Excel for extra carbon, Seachem Florish.

Within a couple of weeks I'll probably also get a CO2 system running from a 20oz paintball tank.

Any other suggestions?


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

First you do not need to cycle a heavily planted (lots of fast growers) tank. Go ahead and do a water change and start adding your inhabitants (not all at once).

Even with a heavily planted tank you will still see some algea. Have you started dosing ferts? If not you need to get into a regular fert routine; this will also help with the algae. If you have over 2wpg I suggest getting the C02 injection setup asap.

If you are new to planted tanks I do recommend getting a few test kits. This will help you learn what is going on in your tank and see how your plants are doing under certain conditions. Then when you get use to things you will use the test kits less & less. The ones I suggest are: P04, N03, PH & KH.


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## mhoy (Jun 12, 2007)

Thanks very much for the helpful reply. I've not used any ferts, I was under the impression that the roots would get ferts from the substrate and adding to the water would help out the algae. 

The tank has limited storage in it's cabinet so I'm restricted to a paint ball tank for CO2.

I"ll order some of this today.

The watts/gallon is occasionally less than recommended due to a faulty electronic balast that I still need to replace.

Mark


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## mhoy (Jun 12, 2007)

OK, now that I've figured out some of the water parameters, what should they be? 

Nitrate - 10 ppm
PO4 - 0.5 ppm
pH - 7.8 - 8.0 

No CO2 yet. I've got the parts for DIY CO2 while I try and figure out which regulator/needle valve to get. Too many choices...


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

You need to be dosing a good source of nitrates, of phosphates and of micronutrients. The Flourish is a good source for micronutrients, but you still need phosphate and nitrate. You can use Excel in place of CO2, but the growth rate of the plants will be pretty slow, and you won't be able to use really high light intensity. For that size tank pressurized CO2 is very desirable. When you go that route, be sure to get a "drop checker", such as the Red Sea "CO2 indicator" and use it per the thread in the DIY sticky section here, so you can be sure you have the right amount of CO2 in the water.


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

mhoy said:


> Thanks very much for the helpful reply. I've not used any ferts, I was under the impression that the roots would get ferts from the substrate and adding to the water would help out the algae.
> 
> The tank has limited storage in it's cabinet so I'm restricted to a paint ball tank for CO2.
> 
> Mark


A paintball canister should work for you, it's better than nothing. If you go larger, set the canister on a board of some type behind the tank, this is what I do.

The majority of plants get their nutrients through the water column, so liquid ferts are essential. Some plants such as Crypts and swords get most of their nutrients through their roots, so a good nutrient base substrate works well for them.


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

mhoy said:


> OK, now that I've figured out some of the water parameters, what should they be?
> 
> Nitrate - 10 ppm
> PO4 - 0.5 ppm
> ...


Your nitrate is right on. Raise the P04 up to 1ppm. Ph is a little on the high side, but will come down when you start injecting C02. Stability is the most important factor with Ph, not the reading (in most cases).


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## mhoy (Jun 12, 2007)

I took the readings late last night before the DIY CO2 started. Figured it might be nice to have an initial reading.

I've just started dosing with Excel, I've been using Flourish for about a week.

Ah, I get it, I've found the following threads (which led to the next one).:
 Dosing Flourish Iron - Measuring Iron
 Estimative Index Dosing Guide

I also had the pH checked at the LFS a week (or two) ago and they measured 7.5. I suspect I'm just having problems exactly matching colors in the RedSea color chart. I'll be ordering one of the in tank continuous CO2 checkers next.

Looks like I'll have to get some more chemicals too.


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