# How To: Get Rid Of The Dreaded [[[!Green Water!]]]



## DutchMuch

Lately in my 65 Traditional Dutch Aquascape, I have been having a very dense and Thick green water issue. 
I have done a lot of research and have found everyone just using a UV. 
Some say to wait it out, but it has been 2 1/2 months since it began.

A UV cost 400$ (I have one) or so for a "good" one, and for people who do not want to throw that money away for a one time issue, this thread will document my progress as I pursue different methods to take down the green algae.

I am running a 6 bulb HO.T5 unit that covers the entire tank.

Initially I thought adding more plants would resolve this issue, which I am still addressing. I have ordered Amazon Frogbit from Chris Rice at RiceFamilyAquatics, and they should be here Monday, why Amazon Frogbit? Hoping they block a bit of the light since I'm getting well over 250 PAR at the substrate center, and I'm hoping they can suck up extra nutrients I have. I have grown amazon frogbit before and its just like big chunks of duckweed, why is it so darn expensive? idk it just is. :/ 
Also ordered an inline diffuser which is also coming Monday so I can blast co2 past the 10bps mark and I'm currently doing about 8bps. 
Lighting is on 2 bulbs for 7 hours a day now.
Back to the plants sucking up nutrients thing, floaters of many kinds suck up a lot more nutrients than some submerged plant in the substrate, there is a whole bunch of science I could get into but lets stay focused!  If you have your average plantings in the tank your having green water issues in, the amount of plants you have WILL NOT effect this algae's growth. What causes this algae to grow I find is exactly what plants need to grow though which traps you in a way since you cannot remove its feeding source. That source being ANY nutrients that's in the water, ok hold on, I did say it doesn't feed off nutrients, which is true it doesn't directly feed off of nutrients I find. But it feeds off of the light of course. If you put a leaf in an empty tank, add Co2 and BLAST light like I did, you will have green water. It doesn't matter how much nutrients you put into the tank, it only takes a tiny drop to start a breeding ground for this type of algae. After that, its main source of nutrition is light.

Here is pics of the current setup and issue 2 1/2 months into it.


















































I have added Double filtration, 
Filtration right now is a HOB aqueon of which I forgot the size and GPH
Main filtration is a Hydor Professional 350. been causing ALOT of movement in the water.

So BB (beneficial bacteria) is not an issue here imo.

Fish have nothing to do with it but what the heck;
Couple goby's
Couple Asian stone mini catfish
Couple (btw idk what a couple is... lol its like 5 fish is a couple to me) corys
like 10 Pygmy corys...
honestly idek whats in there anymore...
I have like 50 fish rn total but they are all under 1" oh and I got some otos

October 3rd I believe?... Aquatic arts is sending me 20 CPD's and 20 pacific blue eyes to try out and a number of other fish...

Alright so ill update you all on my progress in defeating this monster (green water algae) straight from the pits of hell as I make changes or if anything changes at all.

Thanks,
Nate


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## CJKlok

In my experience UV is the only sure fire way to rid an aquarium of the green pea soup.

However, I do add a few additional steps as well. 
Rig up the UV clarifier ready to go. 
Clean all filters - rinse the mechanical filtration pads in conditioned water. Also clean the inner glass surfaces, most hardscape and filter tubes. A good brushing of would do, no need to boil anything.
Do a 60 to 75% water change.
Add some flocculant - eg Seachem Clarity - to the water to bind the floating particles together.
Turn on UV and let it run for 3 to 4 days.

In previous cases I managed to clear up green water in about three days. Once the water looks clear I leave the UV on for another 24 hours to hit a final nail in the green water coffin.

In some particularly stubborn cases - where after four days there were still green tinges to the water - I do a three day blackout. Turn lights off and cover the tank in black plastic bags or tin foil to block any light. It must be pitch black inside. The inability for the individual algal cells to photosynthesize, with the added UV blast, knocks it all out. Fish and aquarium plants suffer no ill.

After clearing the green water I do another filter clean to rinse all the accumulated dead cells out.

You may want to reduce the light input in this tank. I prevented repeat green water outbreaks by turning down light input 15 to 25% after a clearing up procedure. Keep CO2 and other nutrients the same.

This clearing up process can also be followed for bacterial blooms to clear milky water. Of course the black out can be skipped since the bacteria do not photosynthesize.


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## Gone missing

Looks like a real outbreak and a surefire challenge. 
I will be watching to see how it plays out. I've never let one get that far but that doesn't mean it can't happen tomorrow. 
I have to feel green tanks are a situation where UV may be the easy way to fight it but if the real cause of the situation is not changed, it will often be back soon enough. 
Meanwhile I have to mention the hazard of the CO2 bottle. Nasty things can happen if the top gets knocked off.


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## DutchMuch

Gone missing said:


> Looks like a real outbreak and a surefire challenge.
> I will be watching to see how it plays out. I've never let one get that far but that doesn't mean it can't happen tomorrow.
> I have to feel green tanks are a situation where UV may be the easy way to fight it but if the real cause of the situation is not changed, it will often be back soon enough.
> Meanwhile I have to mention the hazard of the CO2 bottle. Nasty things can happen if the top gets knocked off.


haha yea... don't make me more nervous than I am lol.

I'm also excited to see how this goes. And I agree with you, if you don't kill the wasps nest, more wasps just appear :/


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## DutchMuch

Did an 85% waterchange. 

All my plants (roughly 300$) have died / are dying. 

Super pi**ed off due to that... I just cant afford a 500$ UV. 

I'm hoping this AFB I get Monday will spread quickly and "fix" the issue I'm having.


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## Gone missing

To help with the hazard, how about a "quickie fixie" idea? A cardboard box that is kind of near the right size, slipped down over the tank will help keep some of the pressure off the reg and top if it does get tipped.


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## DutchMuch

Gone missing said:


> To help with the hazard, how about a "quickie fixie" idea? A cardboard box that is kind of near the right size, slipped down over the tank will help keep some of the pressure off the reg and top if it does get tipped.


The inline diffuser (huge) just arrived today so that solves the Co2 explosion problem. :spy:


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## DutchMuch

Just added the GLA inline diffuser. Ill update tonight on how it works and such, maybe some pics.


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## Maryland Guppy

DutchMuch said:


> Super pi**ed off due to that... I just cant afford a 500$ UV.


Purchased a 9watt UV from ebay for like $23 shipped 2 years ago, w/extra lamp.
All I had to do was split canister output and add a valve to reduce flow.
Regulated the flow to 25 GPH through the UV.


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## DutchMuch

Maryland Guppy said:


> Purchased a 9watt UV from ebay for like $23 shipped 2 years ago, w/extra lamp.
> All I had to do was split canister output and add a valve to reduce flow.
> Regulated the flow to 25 GPH through the UV.


>.>
<.<
Your magic or something...!

Link to this mystical product?


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## Maryland Guppy

Don't see the model I have.
Found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREEN-KILLING-MACHINE-Internal-9-Watt-UV-Sterilizer-with-Power-Head-BRAND-NEW-/332386412033?hash=item4d63c62601:g:Cy8AAOSwJwpZwxSI


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## DutchMuch

@Maryland guppy
What about this guy?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/112003196619


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## DutchMuch

Eh nvm ill just buy the one you gave me the link to. 

Well hopefully its worth it.


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## Maryland Guppy

DutchMuch said:


> @Maryland guppy
> What about this guy?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/112003196619


Looks almost like the one I have.


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## DutchMuch

Maryland Guppy said:


> Looks almost like the one I have.


I just bought the one you gave the link to

if it doesn't work I'm blaming it all on you, k?

:usa2:opcorn:

lol jk


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## Maryland Guppy

Sure! It can all be my fault, and my worried look.:bounce:


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## DutchMuch

hehehe


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## hoppycalif

If you have 250 PAR at the substrate you will probably always have algae problems. Even half that intensity would be a problem. I would start by using only 2 bulbs to light the tank. Then, to get rid of the algae, take black plastic bags and completely cover the entire tank - keep the lights off - and leave it covered for 3 days, without any peeking, so no light reaches the tank. Remove the plastic bags and you should find clear water, no green water. I have done this 2 times in the past 10 years and it worked both times. Green water algae cannot live without light.


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## DutchMuch

hoppycalif said:


> If you have 250 PAR at the substrate you will probably always have algae problems. Even half that intensity would be a problem. I would start by using only 2 bulbs to light the tank. Then, to get rid of the algae, take black plastic bags and completely cover the entire tank - keep the lights off - and leave it covered for 3 days, without any peeking, so no light reaches the tank. Remove the plastic bags and you should find clear water, no green water. I have done this 2 times in the past 10 years and it worked both times. Green water algae cannot live without light.


hey hoppy! thanks for your input.

As you know its a six bulb fixture, in my OP I explained that it currently is on 2 bulbs which is the equivalent of four since it has crazy good reflectors. I'm not doing a black out. Plants also cannot live without light.

It does work though but it kills everything


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## Gone missing

Seems like this might be a time to do some thinking outside the norm. If we only run into green water now and then, what we might need is a temporary solution? And that always comes back to me wanting something that I had justify the cost, use when needed and then stick in the closet for any future needs. 
Seems maybe combining the UV Maryland Guppy has found with one of the really cheap Sunsun canister filers might be what I would look at doing. 
Could a combo of this filter:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNSUN-HW-6...%3Ab48cb61215e0a9c1644e5c00ffff9231%7Ciid%3A2

Combined with this UV:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/112003196619?rmvSB=true

Make a lower cost, low flow, stand alone UV that we could find handy when needed and store for use on any tank that happened to need it?


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## DutchMuch

@Gone Missing
(when will tagging work? :/ )
Maybe in other people's cases that would work. 
If your focusing on me in your paragraph, no can do. Got a Hydor already and the electric bill is as high as a kite lol. 
But its a good idea for other people I presume. 
Before I do the UV though I'm not giving up on trying to find ANOTHER method to destroying this green algae.
Got some duckweed but haven't added it to the tank. Amazon frogbit is coming on Monday tmrw, so we will see if in the next week that helps. I'm thinking that's the trick.

And my Co2 inline diffuser exploded go to see my journal for that "65 gallon dutch" 
Do inline diffusers have to fill up with water for a few days before it actually starts to work properly? Because my inline is just building up ALOT of pressure and I'm afraid it will go boom boom again.


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## hoppycalif

DutchMuch said:


> hey hoppy! thanks for your input.
> 
> As you know its a six bulb fixture, in my OP I explained that it currently is on 2 bulbs which is the equivalent of four since it has crazy good reflectors. I'm not doing a black out. Plants also cannot live without light.
> 
> It does work though but it kills everything


Sorry, I missed that you were only using two bulbs. Plants survive very well when subjected to a 3 day blackout. In fact when we sell plants and ship them, they survive as much as 4 days or more of blackout. I haven't seen any adverse effect on the plants from a 3 day blackout. Of course they can't grow during those blackout days, but that hasn't had any effect, as far as I can see, on their ability to start growing again when the lights are back on. I don't grow any plants that are difficult, so it is possible that there are species that can't tolerate a blackout.


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## DutchMuch

hoppycalif said:


> Sorry, I missed that you were only using two bulbs. Plants survive very well when subjected to a 3 day blackout. In fact when we sell plants and ship them, they survive as much as 4 days or more of blackout. I haven't seen any adverse effect on the plants from a 3 day blackout. Of course they can't grow during those blackout days, but that hasn't had any effect, as far as I can see, on their ability to start growing again when the lights are back on. I don't grow any plants that are difficult, so it is possible that there are species that can't tolerate a blackout.


I apologize hoppy you are right from that POV. Didn't think of it like that. I will think about it. Right now plants are melting and are in rough shape anyway. Idk if I want that risk ya'know? UV is here Friday and I got more plants today from RiceFamilyAquatics so ill do a review on that, post it in here etc.
I also made this go check it out https://www.facebook.com/Dutch-Aquaria-1838682663109685/


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## DutchMuch

Raised the light 10 links and did a 85% WC. UV comes Friday.


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## DutchMuch

Raised my light another foot.


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## DutchMuch

Light is now about (estimated) 4ft from the top of the water. Amazon Frogbit is doing great and is just starting to send out plantlets. 
As for the UV, still on and running. And its doing good I think... ever since I did a 90% WC again, no sign of Really green water, of course it isn't that crystal clear, but its pretty damn clear. So thankful for that!


But don't worry I'm not just using the UV method, I made this thread to label another option. So when the frogbit covers the top I'm going to turn off the UV, lower the light, and see how close I can get the light to the surface without causing green water, and without killing / burning the frogbit. That's my plan anyway.


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## Gone missing

Not at all sure it fits your plan or thinking but I just came across this item on the " internet of all things confusing" and thought I might let you read it and decide what value it might have.
It seems to fit very well with one tank I'm keeping. Value to you? UNKNOWN!

http://aquarium-fertilizer.com/nitrate-no3-and-phosphate-po4-dont-cause-algae-ammonia-does 
We read and sometimes pass on so much info, why not some more!


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## DutchMuch

Gone Missing you always teach me some new things...

Love this article btw, but I have to disagree!! I like it though. And its a valid idea.

"There is this myth, that nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4) cause algae which is spread like a wildfire. But that’s not true at all! In this article, we will try to explain why NO3 and PO4 aren’t responsible for algae bloom in our freshwater aquariums.
Firstly, you have to realize, that algae lives in two stages. First stage is an algae spore and second one is common algae, how you know it from your aquarium. You can compare it to a butterfly. First, there is a caterpillar and after a while beautiful butterfly."
Quoted from the articles first paragraph. 
I can already tell you why I don't believe this personally, ammonia obviously has an effect on algae. But. If you look into the SW hobby, Po4 if its a good level, will have a MAJOR algae bloom effect. Nitrate also does this but not as bad. 
Ammonia in SW tanks is like, a PURE 0ppm. There is NONE from what I have seen and experienced, of course I say there's none and I mean once its established for a while. Plus SW fish are highly sensitive to parameters unlike most FW fish and inhabitants. 
But that's my first thing..

Highly agree where they said algae spores are always present. People always say "yea I don't have ANY algae in my tank its sparkly clean" half the time there parameters are off, and yes they always have algae, spores or not spores. 



"Ammonia comes from old, unsightly leaves, waste of fish and from feed. We have to keep level of ammonia as low as it’s possible. How? We should instal big filters, where is ammonia transfered to nitrate (NO3). Algae spores aren’t able to recieve nitrate, so doesn’t matter if nitrate (NO3) levels are high. We could also change water regularly to cut ammonia levels down. But what is the most important? We have to keep plants in a good shape, because when plants are weak -> system is weak -> ammonia is present and algae spores become an algae. So if you don’t want to have an algae bloom in your tank, you have to care about your plants and you have to keep aquarium clean."

This is where I stopped reading the rest of the article.
This is absolutely incorrect IMO, couldn't be more wrong. Again just MO.

They say, if you have under filtration, in lets say.. a heavily planted tank... with all those leaves dying off and all the junk building up, ammonia builds up! Well that's not true. There is some ammonia build up, but its not near enough half the size to even make a single part per million. And your Beneficial bacteria weather it be in the substrate or in a filter, consumes that ammonia quicker than it could build up. I have a tank that ive never posted on the forums, and I have S grade fire red cherry's in it, haven't done a single water change in at LEAST a year. I have kept check of parameters, 8ppm nitrate 0ppm everything else. That tank Dupes every other theory. Its the no water change tank. Its semi - planted with crypts and that's all. Some anubias. Sand inert substrate, and I add leaves every now and then (they don't have any effect on ammonia).
I also have bladder snails in there, they DESTROY algae, any of it, except green spot which I don't even mind as its so slow, I clean the algae off maybe... 4 times a year max.

"Algae spores aren’t able to recieve nitrate, so doesn’t matter if nitrate (NO3) levels are high. We could also change water regularly to cut ammonia levels down"
Here they contradict themselves, they said there was a lot of plants in the tank, so immediately from this quote I think this:
Nitrate -> plants (heavily planted tank so it would be around 10ppm I guess) -> dead leaves -> RELEASE NITRATE! very little ammonia. 


"So if you don’t want to have an algae bloom in your tank, you have to care about your plants and you have to keep aquarium clean"

Again, go back to my never water change tank and this example they give here doesn't even apply. You don't even need healthy plants in your tank to spark an algae bloom. again Po4 and nitrate are the cause of algae. Ammonia IS NOT. 

Again just my experience.


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## Gone missing

I am at a point where all opinions make me want to check twice. Even bad ideas are worth considering? 
I've been going through all sorts of slow motion testing and trials to see why one plant refuses to work and in doing that I suddenly run into a totally unexpected problem. 
I've had hard alkaline water in the Austin area for as long as I've had the tanks. PH of 7.8-8.0 is standard and with buffer of 250PPM and above, I had stopped testing all three as it was solid-- hard alkaline water. 
But now it isn't??? Now it is coming in different.
Raw hard water-6.8
After softener-6.8
After setting in the reserve water barrel-6.4
120 gallon tank with PH controller set to 6.6
75 gallon CO2 injected-6.2
20 gallon injected-6.1
I think I see why growth in the 120 has ground to a stop!! I'm only getting .2 drop of PH when I thought I was getting a full 1.2!!
Point being that I should never trust what has always been just because it may not be today?


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## DutchMuch

I also have a softener, and hard alkaline well water. 
Mystery indeed!


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## DutchMuch

Now the amazon frogbit that is afloat on top of the water, IS MELTING?

wtf am I doing here that kills a WEED. uuugh... hopefully its just acclimating itself or something?... idek.


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## DutchMuch

This green water project is now on Hold until I get my light problem fixed.


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## Maryland Guppy

Have never had frogbit.

Red root floater will slowly disintegrate with a HOB filter and all the stirring around when tops get wet.
Maybe frogbit is the same???


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## DutchMuch

HOB isn't the issue. Tops don't get wet for me.


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## DutchMuch

never did find out how to get rid of the green water
it just went away...


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## DutchMuch

Bump:


UV solved the entire problem in about a day or two. 

I didn't find any other method to conquer the dreaded green algae.


Rest in peace green algae,
Nate


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