# Sequence of inline equipment?



## RoseHawke (Jan 4, 2005)

Hydor, CO2 Reactor and 9 watt Turbotwist UVS - does it matter what sequence these accessories are in? I've been playing around with different configurations just trying to make the most efficient use of space beneath my tank, but if there's a "best" sequence it would affect the design possibilities.


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

What type of filter, wattage of Hydor, etc are you working with? Personally I would not hook up the UV inline but set it up to function as a hang on tank unit if it is needed. IF you want to and have room inline though, I woudl place it on a loop with ball valves so that the filter normally does not flow through the unit (reducing flow and mucking up the bulb) continously but only when necessary. The hydor I would place on the output side of the filter and the reactor probably on the output also


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## RoseHawke (Jan 4, 2005)

> What type of filter, wattage of Hydor, etc are you working with?


2028 Eheim Pro II, 200 watt Hydor, 55 gallon tank.


> ". . . I would place [the UVS] on a loop with ball valves so that the filter normally does not flow through the unit. . . ."


I considered this, but for some reason the instruction manual says:
*Warning: Never install a valve directly on the tubing between the main body and the aquarium.*​Any idea why?

I'm sorry, I thought it was a given that everything would be going on the output side. To slightly rephrase my main question, what order should they be in? Filter-->UVS-->Reactor-->Hydor or . . . Filter-->Reactor-->Hydor-->UVS or . . . does it really not matter at all?


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## Krisybabe9 (Mar 21, 2006)

I called Drs. F & S regarding this same issue. The aquatic support specialist told me not to put more than one item per line because the canister filter really isn't designed to handle a fluctuation in water pressure. She said that you could end up with a leak, a flood, or burning out the equipment. 

I'm not an advanced aquarist...but the advice does make sense if you think about it. The Co2 reactor and the UV both change the way the water moves through the lines...so it could be a potential problem. Hope that helps.


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## rohape (Feb 7, 2005)

the UVS definently on the output so it is more efficient. heater on output (thought its supposed to go there) reactor on the input so your filter acts as a secondary reactor. 
anything wrong with that? 


edit: for Krisybabe9
well technically you probably shouldn't. but technically we do a lot of things we probably shouldn't.


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

Cindy, the instructions say between the UV and the aquarium, putting a valve before the UV should be fine. Basically, I would have a tee after the filter output and a valve after each output of that tee. On the straight through frow of the tee I would have a straight tube going into another tee and teh straight trhough flow of that tee would go onto the hydor then to the aquarium. I would then plumb in the UV between the two 90 degrees off of the tees. When you need the UV simply close the straight flow valve and open the one for the UV, then turn on the UV. After a few days when you no longer need the UV, reverse those directions.

The reactor I would place inline after the Hydor although at this pont I woudl ditch the reactor and go with an in tank ceramic diffuser. 

All that being said, I am not sure how much that will reduce the output of the filter. Personally I would not hook up the UV but instead run it as a HOB unit when necessary. Then all you have inline is the heator and reactor, much simpler and all the tees and valves will greatly reduce the output of the filter.


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## RoseHawke (Jan 4, 2005)

Am I understanding this correctly? Like this?


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

Looks about right


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## BryceM (Nov 6, 2005)

From a fluid mechanics point of view I just thought I'd throw in my $0.05. There are very good reasons to place everything on the output side of a pump. If you restrict the flow on the suction side, the pressure can drop to where there is cavitation around the impellor. This will cause premature wear and will sometimes be very noisy. If you do get cavitation it will SEVERELY affect the efficiency of the pump and your total flow will drop.

If a pump is producing too much flow (since when did anyone complain about this) you can always partially restrict the outflow side without hurting anything. You effectively increase the resistance (or head), and flow diminishes as a result. Adding a bunch of in-line stuff on the output side has the same effect as adding a partially closed ball valve.

Total overall flow will be significantly reduced by the extra equipment in the circuit, so you should compensate with a much larger pump (canister filter) than you'd otherwise need. I'd guess that two or three pieces of equipment will roughly double the resistance so a pump with twice as much flow would be needed. Another option is to use a separate dedicated pump to run the heater, reactor, and UV unit. This allows the canister to run unimpeded as it was designed to.


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## RoseHawke (Jan 4, 2005)

The canister is an Eheim 2028 which is rated for up to a 150 gallon tank. Pump output is supposed to be (I take any manufacturer's claims with a grain of salt) about 275gph. It's on a 55 gallon tank. I don't think I need to worry .

The filter is actually meant for my _next_ tank (sometime in the future) which I want to be a 125, but I'll probably be doing stuff somewhat differently on that tank, indeed, probably with an additional external pump as you suggested, or perhaps even a sump. I've always wanted to try a sump even though I know they're not the best thing for planted tanks due to the CO2 issues. Thank you for your input!


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## turbomkt (Mar 31, 2004)

Something else...if you can find them use a y instead of T's. Something like this. I think you'd see less restriction in the flow. $.02


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