# [Wet Thumb Forum]-External Inline CO2 Reaktor



## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

*EXTERNAL INLINE CO2 REACTOR*
I was running CO2 into my Ehiem 2026 canister
and was having trouble keeping CO2 levels high 
enough in my 75G heavily planted tank. Pumping
more CO2 caused a lot of burps and sometimes the 
reactor would airlock.It was time to use a CO2 reactor, 
but I didn't want to spend too much so I decided to build one.

My DIY CO2 reactor is based on the Barr method, 
but I hate adding more equipment into my tank, 
so I designed it to run inline with my canister. 
I made two reactors, the only difference between 
them being the barb size. I'm running them inline 
with my Eheim 2026 and 2213 on the filter intake.

Initially I used a different design that would be 
inline on the filter outflow - only clean water 
enters the reactor, less muck to deal with,
but i noticed a significant reduction in the 
flow rate. I ended up putting it inline on the 
filter inflow. As I write this article, I've been 
running the reactor with no clogging issues yet for 
2 months. If it does start to clog up, I'll simply take 
it off, run some water at high pressure through it to 
clean it out and pop it back on. If you're worried 
about it - you can use a prefilter on the intake tube. 
That will catch any larger pieces of debris.

Almost everything was bought from Lowes but Home Depot 
carries most of this stuff too. Under $10 cost per 
reactor for parts and took me about 20 minutes to put 
most of it together with PVC solvent glue and a
little 'Plumbers Goop' (can use epoxy) for the 
airline connector. I put Teflon tape on the barbs 
before I screwed them on to eliminate leaks.

I chose not to attach a 'hang on' piece, instead I 
secured the hoses with clamps. Much cleaner.

I'm getting 100% dissolution. Now I can crank up my 
CO2 without worrying about air locking my Eheims. 
No more burps!

You can use cheap plastic scrub pads from the dollar 
store if you can't find the bio balls. 
Just make sure they're inert.

Good luck!








[This message was edited by Ghazanfar Ghori on Sat August 23 2003 at 08:50 PM.]


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

*EXTERNAL INLINE CO2 REACTOR*
I was running CO2 into my Ehiem 2026 canister
and was having trouble keeping CO2 levels high 
enough in my 75G heavily planted tank. Pumping
more CO2 caused a lot of burps and sometimes the 
reactor would airlock.It was time to use a CO2 reactor, 
but I didn't want to spend too much so I decided to build one.

My DIY CO2 reactor is based on the Barr method, 
but I hate adding more equipment into my tank, 
so I designed it to run inline with my canister. 
I made two reactors, the only difference between 
them being the barb size. I'm running them inline 
with my Eheim 2026 and 2213 on the filter intake.

Initially I used a different design that would be 
inline on the filter outflow - only clean water 
enters the reactor, less muck to deal with,
but i noticed a significant reduction in the 
flow rate. I ended up putting it inline on the 
filter inflow. As I write this article, I've been 
running the reactor with no clogging issues yet for 
2 months. If it does start to clog up, I'll simply take 
it off, run some water at high pressure through it to 
clean it out and pop it back on. If you're worried 
about it - you can use a prefilter on the intake tube. 
That will catch any larger pieces of debris.

Almost everything was bought from Lowes but Home Depot 
carries most of this stuff too. Under $10 cost per 
reactor for parts and took me about 20 minutes to put 
most of it together with PVC solvent glue and a
little 'Plumbers Goop' (can use epoxy) for the 
airline connector. I put Teflon tape on the barbs 
before I screwed them on to eliminate leaks.

I chose not to attach a 'hang on' piece, instead I 
secured the hoses with clamps. Much cleaner.

I'm getting 100% dissolution. Now I can crank up my 
CO2 without worrying about air locking my Eheims. 
No more burps!

You can use cheap plastic scrub pads from the dollar 
store if you can't find the bio balls. 
Just make sure they're inert.

Good luck!








[This message was edited by Ghazanfar Ghori on Sat August 23 2003 at 08:50 PM.]


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

More information and discussion on this
topic can be found here:

http://www.aquabotanic.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=961

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## Slow Lorris (Feb 3, 2003)

Thanks for re-posting. That looks like something even *I* could build!

What kind of valve/adaptor/doohicky did you use to input the co2 into the reactor? I can see it in the next to last picture. Did you just drill a hole? How did you affix it?

SL


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

Its a standard airline connector. I drilled a hole into the side
and attached it using plumbers goop. However, with the reactors
I've made since I've drilled the hole in the top cap vs. the side.
That way I can vent off air when starting it up for the first time.

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## Ron Kundla (Feb 2, 2003)

Have you noticed any difference in water being forced out of the reactor into the airline tubing with the air input at the top versus on the bottom side?

Might the change help reduce the amount of pressure needed to force the CO2 into the reactor?

My scenario is when the reactor is attached inline to the input into the canister filter.

Ron



> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Ghazanfar Ghori:
> Its a standard airline connector. I drilled a hole into the side
> ...


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

I haven't noticed any problems with having the
CO2 input on the side or top. I'm running it
with pressurised CO2 though. I wonder what
difference it would make using DIY CO2.
Anyone here using a similar setup with DIY CO2?

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## captain (May 12, 2006)

I am and it sucks!

I built a reactor similiar to James in another post. Basically the only difference is I have a barb for the CO2 line to connect to and I have my reactor on the output side of a Eheim 2026. The problem I have is the pressure needed to inject CO2 into the reactor is too high for my DIY CO2 system. All the pressure must be causing a leak because no CO2 actually goes into the reactor. There is a check valve to prevent water from filing up the tubing.

-Steve


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## eruji (Feb 1, 2003)

I'm using diy CO2 in a reactor exactly like yours Ghori (with the "on the side CO2") And it works just fine. It takes an hour or so for the CO2 to build up enough pressure to bubble at an even rate ( about 1 bubble every 1-2 seconds). I don't have a clear pvc tube so i cant actually see it enter the chamber but my ph lowered and i did not detect and leaks. Also mine is powered by a hagen powerhead inside the tank.


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

Now that I think about it - putting the reactor
on the output side of the filter will probably
put pressure on the CO2 input, but if its on
the input side in the configuration that I've
got pics of (see above), the siphon action
will probably have less pressure, infact it
may even have a suction?

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## captain (May 12, 2006)

Does anyone here have DIY CO2 that goes into a reactor on the output side of a filter? Perhaps I have to just step up to a pressurized CO2

-Steve


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## ekim (Jan 31, 2004)

I think Ghori's suggestion is good and will help you!


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## captain (May 12, 2006)

I want to keep the reactor on the output side of the filter. I am going to check for leaks tonight, it has to be going somewhere.

-Steve


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## GulfCoastAquarian (Feb 3, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Ghazanfar Ghori:
> Now that I think about it - putting the reactor
> ...


It would definitely subject the CO2 line to negative pressure, which would make me worry about potentially sucking that nasty Yeast mixture right into your water column. Let it fight the pressure on the output side, it will overcome the pressure as long as there aren't any leaks. The only thing you'd have to worry about then is pushing water into the Yeast bottle, which isn't as bad as pulling water/sugar/yeast *from* the bottle and a check valve would pretty much eliminate that from happening anyway.

-Sam P, BSME
My Website


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## Ron Kundla (Feb 2, 2003)

I have my reactor on the intake of my filter and I do not see negative pressure from the CO2 input on the side of the reactor. I see positive pressure and water being forced out of the reactor and up the airline tubing.

Now, with Ghazanfar's modification where the input is at the top of the reactor, you would probably see negative pressure since the water is moving parallel to the input and that movement with the help of gravity and the filter pump would create suction at the CO2 input. Has anyone seen this phenomenon?

If the reactor was on the output, you might still see suction, but probably not as much since the pump isn't working as efficiently since it has to push the water upwards to get into the reactor and upwards again back into the tank.

I have now switched to pressurized CO2, so it isn't as much of a problem anymore. The reactor is *very* efficient.


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## Ron Kundla (Feb 2, 2003)

When I say "top" below, I mean in the top PVC cap versus the top of the PVC pipe.

I see in Ghazanfar's pictures that his side-mounted input is at the top of the pipe (am I wrong here?) where in my scenario, the input is at the bottom of the pipe, where the bubbles have to flow up the length of the PVC for maximum contact against the turbulent water flow.



> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Ron Kundla:
> Now, with Ghazanfar's modification where the input is at the top of the reactor...


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## Dojo (Feb 2, 2003)

Great Thread.

I just built one almost exactly like Ghazanfar's. Except I put it on the outflow from my sump and T'd off the mainline. I'm not sure if I'm getting enough pressure through it yet, but wont know until I actually turn on the CO2 (need plants first). I'm using pressurized CO2.

Those 2" end caps with the threaded female inlets are a blessing. A bunch of pipe reducing adapters would really suck! lol

*Ghazanfar, where did you find those airline connector thingy. That you put into the pipe? *

~D

----------------------------
~Life is but a moment with the fish~


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

He got those from the LFS. But if you are using 2" pipe you can just drill the top piece and run some airline tubing into the reactor. That's how I build mine.

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## imported_molahs4 (Feb 3, 2003)

Could you elaborate a little more about how the CO2 airline enters the reactor? I want to build one for the outflow of my cannister filter but I'm concerned about getting water all over the place.

Also, when it's on the outflow, do you still need to have the CO2 enter on top and be pushed out the bottom, or could you have the CO2 enter at the bottom, go through the bio-balls and exit at top? The first design would require some "U" shaped lengths of hose, am I correct?

Also, with the white PVC doesn't it make you a bit nervous that you can't see the bubbles at all, or is that a common thing with reactors? I currently have the CO2 hose running into the intake for the cannister and I can watch the bubbles go up the hose.


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## imported_molahs4 (Feb 3, 2003)

Ok, I went and re-read the old post and it answered the middle paragraph, but I could use some help with the CO2 barb and the lack of bubbles. Is getting an inline bubble counter the answer, or is it unnecessary?


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

I've got mine with a bubble counter setup
between the reactor and the CO2 cylinder.
Otherwise there would be no way to tell how
much CO2 you're pumping in!

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

When I run air line into a PVC reactor I just drill a 11/64th hole, cut the line on a angle and pull it though. Gives a water and gas tight seal. I use bubble counters (DIY) on my systems. It's the only way you can get an idea how much CO2 you are injecting.

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## Ron Kundla (Feb 2, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by molahs4:
> ...I could use some help with the CO2 barb...


I bought a pack of Lee's Discard-a-stones some time back and used the plastic connector to the disposable airstone to connect the silicone tubing to the reactor. Drilled a 11/64th hole into the PVC and forced the connector into the hole. No sealant, pure friction.

Here is a link at Drs. Foster and Smith:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?siteid=6&pCatId=3716

Ron


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## Bob Hooper (Apr 10, 2004)

Would it matter if you built the same reactor using the 1 1/2" pvc pipe rather than the 2"? Would this require less water flow through the reactor. I would like to power the reactor from the smallest possible water pump and thought if I cut down on the diametr of the reactor I would get better water flow. Is this a true statement?


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

Sure you can use a pipe with a smaller diameter.
Keep in mind though, if the water flow isn't
enough, it won't dissolve enough CO2. What
kind of gph do you have in mind?

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## imported_molahs4 (Feb 3, 2003)

I decided that I really wanted it to be clear, and I couldn't find clear PVC, so I bought some 2" flexible nylon tubing. For the ends I got barb/slip fittings which I will glue to the same pvc ends- 2"/1/2" reducers, etc. It will probably cost $5 more because of the extra fitting and pipe clamps, but I think it will be nice to see what's going on inside for when it's cleaning time.

I haven't put it together yet because I still need bio balls and a bubble counter. Anyone know a good design for a bubble counter for me?


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## Bob Hooper (Apr 10, 2004)

I wanted to use a Rio 180 which is rated for 120 GPH. would this be enough? I have never tried a pressurized CO2 system before and want to run three tanks off of the same CO2 cylinder. I built the manifold and have the 3 needle valves.I want to use one pump for each tank so I wanted to use the smallest possible pumps.
Thanks,
Hoop


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

Placing your reactor on the input side of the cannister filter would turn it into a prefilter. I place it on the output do I don't have to clean leaves from my reactor.

I created a similar DIY reactor using a sprinkler drip as in input. The ends are screwed on with plumber tape to allow acess for cleaning. So far, I've only created a mockup. I haven't plugged it in yet since my tank is still down from the move.


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## ekim (Jan 31, 2004)

JERP, do you not have a "strainer" on your filter?
How do you keep fish out?

I find they work best on the input side if you are using a canister filter to power them!

Mine has been going for almost a year never cleaned it once.... no leaves...... no reduced flow.

Sorry it won't be a prefilter if you use bio-balls!


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## vickie s (Nov 20, 2004)

I am making a reactor for my 125 gallon. I found a drip adapter that has a 1/2 inch male end and a 1/2 inch female end and a 1/4 inch drip barb coming out in the middle (I think it goes between the riser and sprinkler so you can have both drip and sprinkler). I just screwed the male end of the drip adapter into the threaded hole in the end cap, then screwed the 1/2 inch barb to the female end of the drip adapter. The CO2 line is attached to the 1/4 inch barb of the drip adapter and the water inlet to the reactor is the 1/2 inch barb attached to the drip adapter. The water inlet is the same and the original design. This way I avoided drilling a hole (that I would probably mess up). Now if I can find another drip adapter, I will make a reactor for my 60 gallon. It is time to get away from 2 gallons of diy CO2 and get another gas tank.


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## Bob Hooper (Apr 10, 2004)

Can anyone tell me what amount of flow I would need to put through the reactor to have it work properly? I wanted to use a pump that is just dedicated to the reactor. Would a pump rated at 120 GPH do the job?
Thanks,
Hoop


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## eruji (Feb 1, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> The CO2 line is attached to the 1/4 inch barb of the drip adapter and the water inlet to the reactor is the 1/2 inch barb attached to the drip adapter.


vickie, are you using regular silicone tubing to attatch it to the 1/4 inch barb? Im going to be making a new CO2 reactor and i dont want to drill holes into the reactor either. i would much rather have threaded/glued fittings where there is less chance of leaks.

i was at the local home depot with a piece of that generic blue silicone airline tubing and tried fitting it on different barbs.. i thought that the 1/8th barb fit good.. i did try the 1/4 but it barely fit. Great suggestion on the drip barb i think i will use that if it fits.


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## vickie s (Nov 20, 2004)

eruji,
I am using some of the black CO2 resistant tubing left over from my original CO2 set up. It is the same size as normal drip tubing. I think it is the same size as 1/4 inch airline tubing (I do not have any of this for comparison). It fits well on the drip barb. I put ring clamps on as well (I am a bit paranoid).


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

Ghazanfar Ghori: i can't seem to view the 3 pics you attached to this post. could you try reposting them please? thanks.


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

Thanks for pointing that out! I've fixed the broken links.

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## TonyE (Dec 7, 2003)

Ghazanfar,

I like your design and would like to add the reactor in line to my fluval 403. Instead of drilling a hole in the reactor for pressurized co2 input, why can't I simply input the co2 into the intake strainer of the filter. Also, I am concern that the clamps attaching the reactor to the filter hoses are secure enough to hold. Do you use any other support. What about some kind of about hang on the back design to hold the reactor for greater security.


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

Feeding CO2 through the intake will work well. The clamps
should be secture enough nott o cause any problems. I've been
using them for a while now in two setups - no problems at all.
I tried to build a hangon type thing out of aluminum stripping
I found at Home Depot but its more trouble than its worth.

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

The problem with feeding CO2 into the intake of most cannister filters is this. The impeller is at the top of the filter. If the power goes out the CO2 can build up and airlock the impeller. Then when the filter comes back on it can burn up the motor. Also the impeller in a cannister filter is designed to work with water. Running gas though it will cause it to be noisy and less efficient.










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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

..but with the reactor on the intake side, that won't be a problem. Unless CO2
escapes from from the bottom of the reactor and into the filter. Also the problem
can be avoided regardless of placement of reactor if using a solenoid valve (if
using pressurised CO2).

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

One should always avoid restricting the flow on the intake side of most cannister reactors. Most all of them are push type pumps meaning they push the water out of the filter and basically siphon it in. Always put flow restriction on the output side otherwise you stand a good chance of damaging the filter. Also placing a reactor on the intake side before the filter chances clogging the reactor causing problems with the pump.










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## jeff123 (Dec 2, 2003)

Ghazanfar,
I found all the parts you mentioned except for the 2" x 1/2" reducer. Where did you find that? I'm going nuts trying to find it! I've searched all the Lowes and HD in my area w/o success. 

Thanks


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## Justin Fournier (Jan 27, 2004)

If you can't find a 2" x 1/2" then use a 2" x 1" reducer bushing (very common) then a 1" x 1/2" (very common) reducer bushing. Not as pretty, but will work just as well, and very easy to find.


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by jeff123:
> Ghazanfar,
> ...


Try another Lowes location. Sometimes they'll
have the part at one location but not at the
other. If all else fails, let me know and I'll
mail you out what you need.

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## imported_Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 31, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by jeff123:
> Ghazanfar,
> ...


Try another Lowes location. Sometimes they'll
have the part at one location but not at the
other. If all else fails, let me know and I'll
mail you out what you need.

-
Ghazanfar Ghori


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## jeff123 (Dec 2, 2003)

Ghazanfar/Justin,
Thanks for the replies. I went with the 1 x 1/2 reducer route. Now I'm trying to decide pressurized or DIY CO2. 

Thanks again.


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## TonyE (Dec 7, 2003)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by ekim:
> JERP, do you not have a "strainer" on your filter?
> ...


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