# CO2 tank questions



## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Hello, I've got a quick question. 
I have a heavily planted 29gallon high-light tank that I've finally been able to get CO2 for. I've been wondering exactly what size tank to get. This may be hard to answer, but about how long do your tanks usually last? Any ideas on about how long a tank would last me, and maybe what size you'd recommend? 

By the way, still haven't exactly decided on diffusion method. I was thinking I'd most likely go with a ceramic diffuser, but any comments are welcome. 
Thanks in advance.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

I suggest that you get as large of a CO2 tank as you can afford, as large as you can fit in the area that you want to put it in and as large as you can physically handle. The reason being is that refills are around $20 for each of the four common sizes: 5#, 10#, 15# and 20# regardless of size.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks for the reply, 
I had been thinking of getting as big as possible (like maybe a 20#). My original thinking was that I wouldn't have to get it refilled very often if I got a bigger tank. I didn't know that the cost is about the same, that just makes the larger tank seem like an even better deal. I wonder about how long a 20# tank would last me...
Anyways, thanks for the response.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Check the prices in your area and also check on who refills and who swaps cylinders out.

How long the different sizes last? I haven't really kept up with it, but many people do.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I checked on prices and you were right, the prices to refill the different sizes are pretty close. I'm assuming that refilling them is the way to go, not swapping them out right? 

I really would like to have a rough estimate of about how long a 20# tank would last me. Hopefully someone can help me out. 

Also, as for diffusion, are there any specific types you recommend? I saw the atomic CO2 diffuser from green leaf aquariums and it looked pretty good. Does anyone have any experience with this diffuser? The only part that worries me about it is the >30psi working pressure. Would that high of a pressure cause any problems with the solenoid not turning off or tubing breaking or something? I don't have any experience with CO2 setups, so all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Fishguy10 said:


> I checked on prices and you were right, the prices to refill the different sizes are pretty close. I'm assuming that refilling them is the way to go, not swapping them out right?


You have to wait for them to be refilled. When swapped, the swapper gets a fresh one for the swappee and the swappee is out the door. 

If you have a new, shiny tank, you certainly don't want to swap it it. If you tank needs a new hydrostat test, you might want to swap it out or have yours tested.



Fishguy10 said:


> I really would like to have a rough estimate of about how long a 20# tank would last me. Hopefully someone can help me out.


My lat 20# has been running on a 29g grow out tank for 12 hours a day at near 2 bubbles per second for 3 months. The high pressure gauge hasn't moved. That the best that I can help right now.



Fishguy10 said:


> Also, as for diffusion, are there any specific types you recommend? I saw the atomic CO2 diffuser from green leaf aquariums and it looked pretty good. Does anyone have any experience with this diffuser? The only part that worries me about it is the >30psi working pressure. Would that high of a pressure cause any problems with the solenoid not turning off or tubing breaking or something? I don't have any experience with CO2 setups, so all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


If you use these higher psi diffusers, your tubing should fit very tightly.

Some people that has trouble were ones that used odd dimension tubing that didn't fit on the fittings or the barbs that they were using.

Also, your regulator needs to be able to hold your higher pressure setting without wavering.

Swagelok has some excellent tubing fittings in brass and stainless steel that work very well. For our use, they offer ones for 4mm/6mm tubing and 1/8" and 1/4" tubing. Your tubing must match the size of the fittings used or the tubing will not hold. If everything fits correctly, you can probably pick up a 10# CO2 cylinder by the tubing itself. Here is a link about them. These are for the 4mm/6mm tubing: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks for all the answers. Since I do not currently have a co2 tank, sounds like either way would work for me. I've been told (and I'm partially guessing) that a 20# tank might last me anywhere from 2-4 years. Does this seem like a reasonable estimate? 

I'll be sure to make sure that all connections are tight and that the hose fits well if I go with a higher psi diffusion method, thanks for the advice. I'm not too worried about my regulator not being able to handle the higher pressure, but would solenoids have a hard time turning off with higher psi? 
Thanks for all of the help.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Fishguy10 said:


> Thanks for all the answers. Since I do not currently have a co2 tank, sounds like either way would work for me. I've been told (and I'm partially guessing) that a 20# tank might last me anywhere from 2-4 years. Does this seem like a reasonable estimate?


It depends on your bubble rate. I think that 2 to 4 years is pushing it a bit.



Fishguy10 said:


> I'll be sure to make sure that all connections are tight and that the hose fits well if I go with a higher psi diffusion method, thanks for the advice. I'm not too worried about my regulator not being able to handle the higher pressure, but would solenoids have a hard time turning off with higher psi?
> Thanks for all of the help.


The solenoids that we use should work just fine.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Ok, thank you very much. Sounds like a 20 pound would definitely be good to get, it will be interesting to see how long it will last. Also, good to know that I don't have to worry about my solenoid. Thank you so much for all of your help.


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## Big_Fish (Mar 10, 2010)

Left C is giving you some good info 

I've got a 29 gallon with a 5 LB C02 tank, (and 3-4 bubbles per second) my C02 lasts roughly 4-6 months... (Co2 is 'ON' roughly 10 hours per day)
I've gotten rid of ALL my old ceramic diffusers and went with the little submerged filter for diffusion. (the ceramic ones seem to diffuse better, (smaller bubbles) but mine needed to be CLEANED more often than I was happy with..) (Check this thread for info on the diffuser Hagen-Elite-Mini-Underwater-Filte) 
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...s/44053-tiny-super-efficient-co2-reactor.html

also if you check eBay for the "AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Solenoid Emitter System"
you'll find they have em for $63 with free shipping... I've had pretty good luck with that regulator, and it's about as inexpensive as you'll find.
Good luck!


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Looks like a 20# might last me somewhere around 1-2years, that seems pretty good to me. 

Good to know you like the mini-filter diffusion. By the way, what do you mean by having to clean the ceramic diffusers? Is it just that stuff builds up and clogs them?
Also, is the filter-diffuser very loud? As long as it isn't too big and it's not too loud, I could go with that method. Thanks for the help.


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## kmurphy (Dec 15, 2004)

Fishguy

I just got a refilled Co2 tank today. I have a 2.5lb, because I have a relatively small stand to hide it under. The cost was about $28 in my location. The sales guy told me, for the 5lb it would only cost about $1.5 more per refill and it would last twice as long.


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## Godswill (Nov 2, 2011)

Thanks guys for the great info. I'm about to set up a co2 system and you've pointed me in the right direction.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Kmurphy, thanks for the info, I checked prices as well and the difference between getting a 5 pound filled and 20 pound filled was like 5 dollars or something like that, at least where I live. 

I think that I will go with a 20 pound for the reduced long-term cost and the fact that I won't have to refill it as often. The only thing that I can't decide is whether or not I want to buy my own tank and get it refilled when it's empty, or if I want to trade-in tanks when they are empty. The way I see it, the benefit of owning your own tank is that it is your tank, but the benefit of trading in tanks is that I wouldn't have to worry about getting tanks hydro tested. Other than that, the cost seems to be about the same. What do you guys do and/or what would you recommend? 

Thanks in advance.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

If having a shiny, new looking aluminum CO2 cylinder is your thing, you'll want to go with refills. If it doesn't matter what it looks like, just make the choice based on your needs. Like, you have to wait a bit for it to be refilled, but you can swap one out rather quickly. The hydro test is another factor. Just do what suits you and be done with it. I have 4 CO2 cylinders. 3 are swapped out and the fourth is a keeper. This works for me.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I'm sort of leaning towards swapping them out I think. As long as the tank works and doesn't look completely destroyed I think I would be fine with it. I've been wondering about swapping tanks though. Do you actually own the tank? Like if for some reason you decided to start swapping them somewhere else or wanted to start getting them refilled, could you do that? It may vary based on store, but it would be interesting to know. Thanks in advance.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Fishguy10 said:


> I'm sort of leaning towards swapping them out I think. As long as the tank works and doesn't look completely destroyed I think I would be fine with it. I've been wondering about swapping tanks though. Do you actually own the tank? Like if for some reason you decided to start swapping them somewhere else or wanted to start getting them refilled, could you do that? It may vary based on store, but it would be interesting to know. Thanks in advance.


At the place where I swap them out, I had to purchase them first. I bought two cylinders from. I had an used cylinder that I purchased on ebay. I had been refilling it, but the last time I just swapped it out. Its hydrostatic test was still good and they took it.

There are different plans available for swapping them out at my shop. From paying a monthly rental fee to purchasing them and swapping them out when needed. There is another plan available, but I don't remember the details. Anyway, purchasing them up front and then swapping them out when needed works for me.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I think that the place near me does the "buy the tank and swap it in when it's empty" method. Not having to worry about getting tanks hydro tested sounds pretty good to me and the more I think about it, the more the swapping method seems to make sense. The tanks may not be brand new and shiny, but as long as they function, that should be fine. I just really need to get a tank and get started. 

By the way, have you noticed any algae reducing effects of CO2? Right now I've got a little bit of hair algae and I'm hoping that it will go away when I get CO2 running. Thanks in advance.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Fishguy10 said:


> ... By the way, have you noticed any algae reducing effects of CO2? Right now I've got a little bit of hair algae and I'm hoping that it will go away when I get CO2 running. Thanks in advance.


Some Amano shrimp should gobble up that hair algae. I get mine from a LFS and from invertebrates by msjinkzd too. She has some really nice fish, other species of shrimp and snails too.

CO2 does help in the balance of the aquarium. Too much light is the big contributor for algae. I'm one of the folks that likes to use CO2 and probably always will as long as I have planted aquariums. You will find quite a few people that do just fine with lower lighting and no CO2. I'm not getting into a discussion about it one way or the other. I know what works for me and I'm sticking with it. More than likely, after you get your CO2 tuned in, you will like it too. I run mine so that the 4 dKH drop checker is green when the lights turn on and it is a green color right before the lights turn off. During the night, the drop checker turns blue. I don't turn my CO2 up so high that the drop checker solution turns lime green or yellow. Some people like it turned up that high, but with what I am growing, HC, glosso, dwarf hairgrass, crypts, fissidens, Christmas moss and Echinodorus (Helanthium) angustifolius in Amazonia AquaSoil, I don't need it set that high.

Good luck with your CO2!


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks for the advice, I guess I should research and look around for some Amano shrimp. I was sort of thinking of trying to get some true SAE, but I've heard that real ones are kind of hard to find and that they can get to a decent size. Amano shrimp might be better for me, do you think that they would be ok with some crystal reds? By the way, are they clear their whole lives or do their colors change? Thanks for the help.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Amano shrimp are greedy eaters, but other than that, they are fine with other shrimp as far as I know. I also have some red cherry Neocaridina heteropoda shrimp with mine. Amano shrimp aren't clear like ghost shrimp. There is some coloration. Google images shows what they look like.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Ok thank you for the information, I will start looking around for some Amano shrimp. Do they really get to be like 2-3"?


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Rachel at invertebrates by msjinkzd that I mentioned earlier is first class. She does a great job. She has Amano shrimp for $2 right now. I just got 20+ from her and they are extremely nice! Present Stock List

The Amano shrimp are around 1" to 2" long. I don't think that they get to be 3" long. If they do, I've never seen any.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

About how many do you think would be good for my 29 gallon tank? It's high light and heavily planted. Right now the hair algae is getting pretty bad, but once I get CO2 going I'm hoping it will slow down/die back a little.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

You could get 30 to 40 of them. They are skilled escape artists, so take the necessary precautions. I sometimes call them "Houdini shrimp."


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Wow, that seems like a lot. Although I guess if you only had a few you'd never see any. If they were to manage to eat all of the algae in my tank, do you think that they would be ok with flakes or would they need algae wafers? Either way there would be flakes available just from feeding the fish. 

Good to know that they like to try to escape. I have a canopy over my tank so I think that it should be pretty escape-proof. By the way, just out of curiosity, do Amanos like to swim around much, or are they more content to just walk around or maybe swim from leaf to leaf?


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Fishguy10 said:


> Wow, that seems like a lot. Although I guess if you only had a few you'd never see any.


That is the amount that I would buy. You can try less. I just don't know how bad that your hair algae is.



Fishguy10 said:


> If they were to manage to eat all of the algae in my tank, do you think that they would be ok with flakes or would they need algae wafers? Either way there would be flakes available just from feeding the fish.


I see mine eating algae, wafers, shrimp pellets and flakes.



Fishguy10 said:


> Good to know that they like to try to escape. I have a canopy over my tank so I think that it should be pretty escape-proof.


That's good. If you do see that they are getting out, you can lower the water level to around 2X lower than their body length and that should help too. Screen material is another option.



Fishguy10 said:


> By the way, just out of curiosity, do Amanos like to swim around much, or are they more content to just walk around or maybe swim from leaf to leaf?


All of the above. They are very active.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

Thank you very much for all of the info and help, I'll definitely have to look for some amanos. I think that I will be setting up CO2 tomorrow, and then it will be interesting to see what happens to the algae. Thanks again


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Just remember that the Amanos only eat the algae. They don't fix the problem. It is up to you to correct the issues causing the hair algae.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

That is actually something that I've been trying to find as well. I was looking through the method of controlled imbalances posts, but I couldn't seem to find the long green hair algae that I have. I also checked some other places with similar "if you have this type of algae this nutrient might be lacking so you should add some of it" but I can't seem to find anything other than a lack of CO2, light, or water circulation. My light and circulation should be good, so my guess is that this may be being caused by a lack of CO2. Once I get CO2 up and running, it will be interesting to see what happens to the algae.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

When I set up my last tank, a 40 breeder. I had a bad case of rhizo growing on my fissidens and Christmas moss. It was over a foot long! I removed what I could with a toothbrush. Then I treated it with H2O2 and added 30 Amanos. It cleared up very quickly after doing this. I hasn't came back either.

You can use Seachem's Excel plus the CO2 to help with your hair algae. I underlined some Excel info below. Check out spraying it with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) also. Black Mollies, Florida Flagfish and Rosey barbs as well as Amano shrimp may be very helpful. Note that all these fish will eat or kill the Amano shrimp! So don't mix Amanos with these fish. Red Cherry shrimp will eat algae too, but they aren't quite as good as the Amano shrimp. Those fish will eat the red cherry shrimp too.

Exerts From: http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

"Insufficient, fluctuating or poor distribution of CO2 are nearly always at the root of algae issues in high light planted tanks.

If your CO2 is turned off at night then turn it on about 2 hours before lights on. You want CO2 levels to be at optimum levels when the lights are turned on. Check levels to make sure that they are good and compare morning to evening figures. You need to have stable CO2 levels through the whole of the lighting period.

Also of high importance to help prevent algae is having a good flow of water around the whole tank. As a guide try to aim for 10x or more the rated filter flow rate to tank size. The idea of this is to provide a constant supply of CO2 and nutrients to the plants by having them move across the leave's surfaces. If you can see all you plants gently swaying then your flow should be good.
Seachem Flourish Excel and Easylife Easy Carbo can be used to fight algae issues and they do seem to work very well against certain types. You can either dose as instructions or two to three times overdose for about two weeks to hit the algae hard. They mainly kill BBA, but also can have an effect on cladophora, staghorn and hair algae. They do affect some plants though. The ones I'm aware of are Egeria Densa, Riccia, Vallis and Fissidens. Some people also report it affecting shrimp and ottos. Another trick is to mix 1 part Excel or Easy Carbo to 3 parts water and add to a sprayer. Do a large water change and whilst the water level is low spray the exposed algae. Leave for 5 to 10 minutes and then fill up with water.

*Hair, Thread, Fuzz, etc algae*
Description: These are very general names for a wide variety of filamentous algae. Generally green and varying in length. I have listed some of the more popular filamentous algae under their own section on this page.
Cause: A range of causes including low CO2, low nutrient levels and ammonia spikes. Nothing to do with excess iron as commonly thought.
Removal: Can be very difficult to eradicate at times. A high plant mass with good CO2 and a good supply of nutrients along with constantly hassling the algae seems to pay off after a while. Removal by twisting around a toothbrush or similar. Overdosing Flourish Excel can help. Amano shrimps, Rosy barbs and mollies will often eat it.

*Oedogonium*
Description: A fairly short length filamentous algae that can give a fuzz look to plants.
Cause: Low CO2. Low nutrients.
Removal: Check CO2 levels. Add nutrients. Overdosing Flourish Excel can help. Amano shrimps, Rosy barbs and mollies will often eat it.

*Rhizoclonium*
Description: Strands of fine green or brownish threads which are soft and slimy.
Cause: Low CO2 and poor water flow. Low nutrient levels. General lack of maintenance.
Removal: Increase CO2 levels and check nutrient dosing. Give the tank a good cleaning. Overdosing excel should also clear it. Amano shrimp will eat it.

*Spirogyra*
Description: Fine strands of green algae sometimes very long in length. Slimy to the touch. Under a microscope the chloroplasts are aligned in a spiral - hence the name.
Cause: Often appears a couple of weeks after a disturbance that causes a spike in ammonia. This can be anything from a disturbance of the substrate to a dead fish gone unnoticed. Likes high light levels and high nutrient levels.
Removal: Once it has appeared it can be very hard to clear as it thrives in the same conditions as plants. Pick out as much as possible and do a three day blackout with CO2 turned off and doing large daily water changes. Dose back with macros after the water change. Afterwards I found normal dosing Excel also helped. Rosy barbs will eat it if made hungry. Also try reducing the lighting.
Another method to try is to try lean dosing at around 1/4 to 1/8 Estimative Index levels for a few weeks. I had good success doing this."


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I think that the algae I have must be rhizo. The picture on the far right looks about right, except my tank hasn't gotten that bad. From what I can see it looks just like the long bunched up strings of algae that are in my tank. I also have a little bit of stag horn algae in one of the plants, but it sounds like it might be caused by low CO2 as well. If the cause is low CO2, getting CO2 should help for both.  

I just got a tank today, decided to go with the trade-in method, and so I will hopefully have CO2 running maybe tomorrow. After I've had CO2 going for awhile and manually removed some more algae, I should be able to see if it's growing back and then I'll have a better idea of how many shrimp to get to help deal with the problem. 

Thank you for all of the information and advice. I'm glad that I've finally gotten CO2 and hopefully my plants will grow better and faster, and the algae will die off. If the algae won't go away, some Amanos should be able to help me out.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

I'll tell you about the rhizo that I had and how I got rid of it. I had some big pieces of driftwood that looked somewhat like the driftwood in the "moss arch" pictures below. I had it in my growout tank so that it would leech its tannins in there. Plus, I had Fiddidens fontanus and Christmas moss growing on it. The mosses were growing slowly and attaching themselves to the driftwood. I set up my 40 breeder to check for leaks and to make sure that everything worked properly. I ran it with just water in it for a couple of days. After a few days, I moved the moss covered driftwood into the 40 breeder. I cranked up the CO2, run all 4 T5HO bulbs for 12 hours and added ferts with only the moss and driftwood in the aquarium; no other plants. It was looking good and so I left for a long weekend. When I came back, I had brown rhizo out the ying-yang. It was over a foot long! I used a toothbrush to remove much of it. I sprayed the moss with a DI/H2O2 solution. I rinsed the peroxide solution off after a few minutes and put the moss covered driftwood back into the 40 breeder. I ran only 2 T5HO bulbs for 6 hours a day, dosed 1/4 EI, ran the CO2 and added the Amanos. This got rid of the rhizo rather quickly. It did kill some of the moss, but not very much. It grew back really well. During this time, there was no substrate or any other plants in the 40 breeder. When my AquaSoil Amazonia came in, I removed the Amanos and planted the aquarium somewhat like the "moss arch" pictures below. After a month, I put the Amanos back in. I do not see any traces of algae. My tank is doing really well. I'm running 2 of the T5HO bulbs for 8 hours a day now. My 4 dKH drop checker is green when the lights are on.

Anyway, I hope that tale wasn't too boring. It is how that I got rid of rhizo and it hasn't reappeared. For more information, Google: Do a Barrel Roll


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I had brown rhizo too! I didn't know what it was because I couldn't find anywhere that had any info about long brown hair algae, but now it all makes sense. It looked almost exactly like what I have now, except it was a brownish-orange color. I removed most of it manually, then it completely disappeared when I started dosing excel. I had a few weeks of an almost algae-free tank, and then all of a sudden a little bit of green rhizo started growing. It seems like it grows much much faster than the brown-orange kind did and it isn't as easy to remove; it just sort of breaks apart if I try to pull it out with my hands, I'll have to try a toothbrush. 

Strange how there was a period in between the brown and green forms where none grew at all...I wonder what was different then. Maybe it's the light, because I accidentally increased the time that it was on by about an hour or two (trying to plan ahead for daylight saving time) and that is when it seemed to really take off. Anyways, this green form seems to be growing much faster and it's much more widespread. I've turned the light time down, and hopefully the CO2 will help get rid of it and if it doesn't I'll probably add some Amanos.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

After I got rid of the brown, I didn't get the green, thankfully! I don't have any algae in this new aquarium. Have you tried Amazonia AquaSoil? This is what I used. It is my first time with it. It is great stuff!!! Much better than Flourite and Eco-Complete.

msjinkzd is out of Amanos right now, I believe. http://www.bobstropicalplants.com/shop/en/ may have some Amanos, Caridina japonica.

msjinkzd is in PA and Bob's is in CA. I don't know whom is closer to you.

Amano shrimp are an excellent addition of most freshwater planted tanks anyway. I intend to keep them along with some red cherry shrimp. They also eat the algae that I cannot see.

I hope that you can get rid of your algae. Good luck!

- Left C


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I found some Amano shrimp at a LFS that look pretty good. They seemed to be a decent size and they were pretty active. They also had some cherry shrimp, although they were pretty small. If I understand correctly, I could keep CRS, Cherries, and Amanos without any fear of interbreeding, right? 

I still want to see how CO2 effects the algae, but if it won't go away I'll definitely have to get some Amanos, and I could possibly get some cherries as well. Thanks for all of your help; I hope my tank is algae-free soon.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

You may want to research the interbreeding to make sure. I Know that RCS and CRS can't interbreed. I know that Amanos and RCS can't interbreed. I'm just not sure about Amanos and CRS. Both of their first scientific names are the same: "Caridina." I don't think that they can interbreed, but I'm not positive. You should double check. Here is a chart that may help some: http://www.planetinverts.com/Will These Shrimp Interbreed.html

You should grab the Amanos while they have them in stock if they can't inter breed. Many come from Japan and lately they have been slow to be imported because of some major storms, typhoons and so forth. This is what I have been told, anyway.


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I checked compatibility and it looks like Amanos, CRS, and RCS are all safe to keep together, they can't interbreed. I probably should get some Amanos if they might become less available for a little while, plus I'm getting tired of all of the algae in my tank. Thanks for the information.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Some Amanos will really help towards getting your hair algae out of sight. Get as many as you can. Remember that they don't prevent algae, they just keep it from being so visible. You have to work on the solution to it. A hydrogen peroxide treatment, like it mentioned, went a long way with my problem. I double dosed Excel for a couple of weeks afterwards too. Good luck!


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## Fishguy10 (Aug 6, 2011)

I'll have to see how it goes with the CO2, but I'll probably end up getting some Amanos. I know that they won't make the algae go away, but if they can at least help get it under control, that would be great. Thanks for all of your help.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Amanos!


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