# Heaters



## LilLou (Apr 23, 2006)

Currently in the process of setting up a new tank. I have two 300W titanium heaters from Won Bros. I had read that without a temperature control it was very difficult to maintain a constant temperature in the tank.

Anyone who has a 2 heater setup use a temperature control? If so what controller do you use.

I also wanted to put the 2 heaters in my wet/dry filter but Won Bros advised against that setup and said they would be better placed in the tank.

Anyone have the heater in their wet/dry?


Lou


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

How warm do you keep your home? If you keep the house in at least the high sixties you shouldn't really need a heater, unless you have discus or some other super demanding fish.


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## LilLou (Apr 23, 2006)

Aaron


That's exactly what I am going to be keeping in the tank I am currently setting up.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Ah, well heaters it is then.  To answer your question then I wouldn't worry about temperature swings. Your best bet is to use quality heaters and they should hold everything steady.


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## diablocanine (Jul 25, 2004)

LilLou said:


> Currently in the process of setting up a new tank. I have two 300W titanium heaters from Won Bros. I had read that without a temperature control it was very difficult to maintain a constant temperature in the tank.
> 
> Anyone who has a 2 heater setup use a temperature control? If so what controller do you use.
> 
> ...


The reason they do not want you to put their heaters in a sump? If you run a titanum heater dry the ends will melt. Here is the controller I use.










You can get one from www.JEHMCO.com. I use 2 Theo 400 watt heaters, they keep my Discus tank heated well, if they are accidently run dry, they shut off.










If you keep them in the bottom of the sump you should not have a problem.










I also keep a 250 watt heater that is not connected to the controller for redundancy. Here is a link for more info http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/28332-110-gallon-discus-tank-sump-w.html ......DC


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## LilLou (Apr 23, 2006)

Diablo 

I remember the post you linked to. I was told not to put the titanium heaters directly in the bottom of the sump area for fear that they could melt the acrylic. I would have a total of 2 300 Watt heaters in there. Plus I have the more traditional sump with the bioballs in it so the actual space for the heaters isn't that large. If I don't put the heaters in the sump what would be a good configuration for them . I will have the return box on the left hand side of the tank and the return pipe on the right hand side

I did finally get this thing up on the stand last night and filled it with water to test for leaks. Looks good so far.


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## diablocanine (Jul 25, 2004)

LilLou said:


> Diablo
> 
> I remember the post you linked to. I was told not to put the titanium heaters directly in the bottom of the sump area for fear that they could melt the acrylic. I would have a total of 2 300 Watt heaters in there. Plus I have the more traditional sump with the bioballs in it so the actual space for the heaters isn't that large. If I don't put the heaters in the sump what would be a good configuration for them . I will have the return box on the left hand side of the tank and the return pipe on the right hand side
> 
> I did finally get this thing up on the stand last night and filled it with water to test for leaks. Looks good so far.


I do not buy that melting the acrylic reason, those heaters have mounts that keep them off the surface. You need to put them in the sump, for aesthetic reasons. Why do you need the bio balls? There are better ways to get bio filtration in a sumped planted tank. What kind of wet/dry do you have, a tidepool? Some pictures would help.......DC


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## LilLou (Apr 23, 2006)

DC

It is almost exactly like this one









The actual dimensions are 36"l x 18"w x 20"h


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## diablocanine (Jul 25, 2004)

LilLou said:


> DC
> 
> It is almost exactly like this one
> 
> ...


Looks like my original one before I gutted it. Have you considered pulling the bio balls, drip plate, etc. and using powered sponge filters for bio? Bio balls will really outgas CO2, combined with an overflow it will be difficult to keep levels up.....DC


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## LilLou (Apr 23, 2006)

I tried to get the heaters to stick to the bottom of the sump and that didn't work. i then tried to stick them to the glass in the tank and I have come to the conclusion that the suction cups that come with these heaters STINK.

DC

As far as taking out the bioballs etc. I would have to cut the the whole sump apart. The sections that hold them are part of the sump and not sitting on the edges like some models.

I thought about setting it up like what you showed in the post above but to get everything up and running I didn't have the time to set it all up. ALthough I know what you mean about the CO2 outgassing.

This is a better picture of the sump


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## AMP (Nov 11, 2006)

Sorry to change gears here, What size is that UPS? I Have been contemplating this as well in my new rig.


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## LilLou (Apr 23, 2006)

I have been looking into getting a temperature controller lately as I am setting up my big tank. Well after doing the research here and on other forums I still hadn't decided on which model to get. Some people say this one is the best and others say that model is the best. I walked into my LFS two nights ago and they have a junk pile on their counter of stuff people bring back or exchange etc. Looking through them I find a temperature controller very similar to the following: (the single stage one)

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13967&N=2004+113767

The only thing that appears wrong with it is one wire would have to be soldered back to a contact in the temperature probe. I test the thing by setting a temperature and holding the probe in my hand to raise the temperature. CLICK.
I guess it works. How much??

Give me 30 bucks for it.

Savings of: $64.99 + S&H

So I guess one person's trash does turn out to be another' person's treasure on occasion.


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