# Let us see your Water Change System (56K alert)



## hoppycalif

In another thread I volunteered to show pics of how I change water, so here it is: All of the parts for this I got at my local hardware store, and the operation should be self evident.


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## lildark185

Pretty cool. How much did it cost to make the whole setup? Theres the python no-spill siphon which is basically what you've made but sells for $40.


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## hoppycalif

I don't remember the cost, but it couldn't have been much less than the $40. Most of my DIY projects end up not saving me much money. But, this particular system was made mostly from parts I had used in a permanent water change setup that I made for a 125 gallon tank, where the garage laundry tub was right behind the wall.


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## chadly

a little old fashioned here


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## hoppycalif

A 20 gallon tank, in my opinion, is about at the limit for doing the "old fashioned" water changes. About three trips with that bucket should do it for the 10 gallons needed for a 50% change, and I doubt that I could avoid major spills for more trips than that. I maintained a 40 gallon tank that way several years ago, and always had spills.


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## mazakman

I use one of these Eheim 1250 pumps and just throw it in the tank and run a hose outside. It has a sponge in it so you don't suck up things that you don't want to suck up. It comes in handy for filling the tank to. you can put a hose on the intake and output. I have 3 tanks and use it with a sterilizer and run it once in a while in each tank so I only need 1 sterilizer for all tanks.

http://www.eheim.com/universal.htm


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## John N.

Cool System Hop!

Very similar to what you created. I just use the Python No Spill System.









_Big Al's Python No Spill System_

Ever since I started using this hose system, water changes are about 10 minutes from start to finish, and no waterspill on the carpet or tiles, and no lugging buckets and stove pots of water around. I don't think it can get much easier than this. 

-John N.


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## skinns

Interesting, I actually water all my house plants/garden plants with my water changes. What a noticeable difference too!


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## Ajax

I drain all my water with 3/4" tubing into a DIY watering system for my plumeria on the patio. Kind of a pain, but it's better than filling up buckets of water to water them.


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## chadly

I'd like to get a 50' python but if you buy the hose and fittings you can make one.


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## Burks

Yup, that's a 6 gallon trash can fill with paper and a power supply. That's what I drain my water into. I use a nice clean bucket to transfer good water back in.


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## diablocanine

A little over $250 to build the whole setup, how-to in DIY link below......DC


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## hoppycalif

Diablo, that is a very neat system! Your "My DIY Projects" link doesn't lead to your project specifically, just to a website. You obviously use RO water for changes - is it heated too?


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## bigstick120

I just got a python last year, I dont know how I ever lived without it before!, Very nice DIY there folks!


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## Zapins

Interesting.

I used to do weekly water changes of 50% for two 55g tanks, a 38g and a 10g tank with a bucket... man did that take hours...

Then I took to siphoning the water out the window and filling up the tank with a 40ft hose hooked to the shower head. Something similar to Hoppy's setup. Much easier


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## Jdinh04

Mine is the same as Burks, just regular siphon and buckets


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## diablocanine

hoppycalif said:


> Diablo, that is a very neat system! Your "My DIY Projects" link doesn't lead to your project specifically, just to a website. You obviously use RO water for changes - is it heated too?


Look for my name in the author column, then look for the subject you are interested in......DC


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## bpimm

Here is my system,

It starts with a pressure regulator in the pump room.










After it's regulated to about 2 PSI it goes to the manifold and the drip counters. This will be mounted on the inside of the door once I build the doors for the stand.










Then it goes into the tank via a bent tube that hangs over the side.










The excess water exits the tank via the overflow that each tank is equiped with and drains outside the house.










I time how long it takes to drip a teaspoon the calculate the amount in a day and adjust appropriately.

No more manual water changes...

Brian


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## hoppycalif

Brian, is the water input flow so low you don't have to worry about cold water, chlorine or chloramine? I suspect you are using a private well for the water? That overflow system is really neat. The 45 gallon tank I just got has a drilled hole like that where I could do something like this. It appeals to my Rube Goldberg instincts! What is the worst that could happen if something fails?


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## bpimm

hoppycalif said:


> Brian, is the water input flow so low you don't have to worry about cold water, chlorine or chloramine? I suspect you are using a private well for the water? That overflow system is really neat. The 45 gallon tank I just got has a drilled hole like that where I could do something like this. It appeals to my Rube Goldberg instincts! What is the worst that could happen if something fails?


Hoppy, you're correct private well no chlorine or chloramine to deal with and the flow is very slow so temp is not an issue, in fact yesterday I turned it up to help cool the tanks down.

Worst case if the drain plugs-tank overflows. if a supply line breaks you get a wet floor.

You could add a solenoid and only run it when you are home.

I haven't had a problem so far, one close call last winter the drain line was dripping and the ice formed a inverted icicle and plugged the drain line, fortunately I caught it before I had a mess. I saw the first drip run down the outside of the tank.

how about a low voltage float switch in the tank to shut off the supply if the level gets to high?

I too seem to have these Rube Goldberg instincts.


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## hoppycalif

Would one of those drain strainers mounted on the drain pipe keep it from ever plugging? The supply line breaking doesn't bother me. I have had cannister filters running with that risk, plus the fact that they can siphon all of the water out pretty quickly. A check valve in the fill line would stop any siphoning thru the fill line.

Another question: I am a math major from college (along with other majors), but I forget how to come up with an equation for what percentage of the water is changed per day or week with such a system of slow, but constant water change. Do you know what it is? (I admit to being embarassed at having to ask this.)

Edit: My embarassment got the better of me! I looked it up in Wikipedia: The equation I found is at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dilution_(equation)
Using that equation I ended up with the following: to find what inlet flow of water will replace half of the tank's water volume in one week, use this:
*Water flow in drops per minute = 5 times the tanks volume * So, for my 45 gallon tank it takes 225 drops per minute, or about 4 drops per second.
This isn't 100% accurate, but is accurate enough for doing EI weekly water changes this way. (Unless I made a mistake - who wants to check my math?)

EDIT Again: With a system like this, how would one dose Prime or other dechlorinator? I could dose the tank every day, for example, but that would mean a dose for the entire contents of the tank, daily, which would be a major expense for Prime. So how do you dose the drops of water entering the tank?


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## lildark185

Just to let everyone know, the phython no spill kit is on sale at petsmart.com http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441776792&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302030123&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023693&bmUID=1153704750965&itemNo=3&Ntt=python&In=All&previousText=python&N=2 Thats the link to the python. Most petsmarts match their online prices as long as you print it out and show them, but you should probably call in first.  Enjoy.


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## bpimm

hoppycalif said:


> Would one of those drain strainers mounted on the drain pipe keep it from ever plugging?


Yes that should work,setting the water level would be a little tougher tho.



hoppycalif said:


> EDIT Again: With a system like this, how would one dose Prime or other dechlorinator? I could dose the tank every day, for example, but that would mean a dose for the entire contents of the tank, daily, which would be a major expense for Prime. So how do you dose the drops of water entering the tank?


This is from your simi-automatic water changes thread, it looks like a good system. it stated it cannot remain pressurized but at 2-3 PSI I doubt that it would be a problem.



Naja002 said:


> I use an EZ-Flo for the auto addition of dechlor. It works Great. I have the 3/4 gal. version for dechlor and it can be set for ratios between 400:1-15,000:1.
> 
> I have another 3 gal. EZ-Flo that I have been using for auto fert injection also.
> 
> Here's a link:
> 
> http://www.ezflofertilizing.com/
> 
> They may look like a glorified pump sprayer---but they are not. I did a lot of corresponding with them prior to purchase. They are well built and work as described......


I agree on your assesment of the risks associated keeping aquariums, I have had far more water in my carpet because of stupidity than I have from equipment failure. I proved this again tonight, I had a container of water sitting on my speaker next to my 80 Gal. I was acclimatising some new fish when I knocked the container (2 Liter pop bottle with the top cut out) over, it landed upside down fitting snugly between the tank stand and the speaker to my surprise it sat there on the carpet half full of water upside down. now what, I tried to slide a spatula under it to save some of the mess failing miserably ending up with the water except for about a teaspoon soaked into the carpet. :doh: :doh: :doh:

Brian


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## Sudi

I put a pump in a bucket witch is filled half way, it pumps everything to the sink or outside (the pipe is very long) and then I just reverse everything. With 75G it makes my life much easier  I'll show pictures later 

My uncle got me the pump and the whole set  so it was free 

Matt


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## bpimm

From another thread,



Naja002 said:


> Carbon filters do not remove chloramines. "Super-Activated" carbon will, but it breaks it down into chlorine and ammonia---the ammonia remains free....


Let me start out by saying I am no chemist or biologist and my planted tank knowledge is dated so this idea comes from a non scientific, rusty brain so correct my where I'm wrong, and forgive me if I'm way out in left field picking daises.

If I understand this right the only output after a "Super-Activated" carbon filter would be ammonia.

Ammonia below 7.0 PH is in the form of ammonium. 
Ammonium is the preferred form of nitrogen for plants.

depending on the quantity of ammonia released from the breakdown of the chloramines wouldn't this just be a supplemental source of ferts for the plants, assuming that the levels are low and the PH is maintained below 7.0?

Brian


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## Tom Higgs

I have a 50 and got tired of lugging buckets, so I just run it out the window. I just built the aquarium into a wall that backs up to a shower. After a little plumbing modification I am able to open the valves and fill the tank directly from the spigot. After over 20 years of buckets, sometimes I add some water to the tank just because I can.


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## Rmax

*brass seems ok, then?*



hoppycalif said:


> In another thread I volunteered to show pics of how I change water, so here it is: All of the parts for this I got at my local hardware store, and the operation should be self evident.
> 
> I used to own a Python (loved it!), and I just built a DIY version last weekend somewhat similar to yours. I am reassured by the fact that you used some brass components. I was a little worried that brass might be harmful to fish or especially inverts (I keep Neocaridina denticula sinensis and some others) but if others are using brass components with no problems, I should be ok.


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## hoppycalif

I think if water sits in contact with a metal such as brass or copper or lead for several hours, and the water has a pH below 7, you might want to worry about contaminating the water. But, water flowing through copper piping, for example, is the tap water we use for water changes, routinely. The water would have to erode or corrode the metal before any significant amount would be introduced to the water. That's one reason water companies raise the pH of water they supply above 7.


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## Rmax

hoppycalif said:


> I think if water sits in contact with a metal such as brass or copper or lead for several hours, and the water has a pH below 7, you might want to worry about contaminating the water. But, water flowing through copper piping, for example, is the tap water we use for water changes, routinely. The water would have to erode or corrode the metal before any significant amount would be introduced to the water. That's one reason water companies raise the pH of water they supply above 7.


Thanks...that's reassuring. My water comes out of the tap at 8.0, so I guess there's no problem there! Good news, because now I can use it on all of my tanks...at least the freshwater ones...that I can reach with a 30 ft hose. It probably won't be long before I add another 20 ft


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## copperleaf

skinns said:


> Interesting, I actually water all my house plants/garden plants with my water changes. What a noticeable difference too!


What a great idea, never heard or thought of that before. I'm gonna start trying it.


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## abnormalsanon

I tried using the Python system but never could find an adaptor to work with my faucets. I even tried the universal adaptor with no luck...

So now I hook up a cheap pump to 30 feet of 1/2" vinyl tubing and pump the water out of the tank. Then I put the pump in a bucket in the tub, turn the tap on very low going into the bucket, and let it siphon back into the tank. Now I just need a more powerful pump so it doesn't take so long! I also use a gravel vac to suck up any excess waste/mulm (I usually do one 3gal bucket per water change this way), especially in the goldfish tank.

I love doing it this way because I don't end up disturbing the plants and fish by dumping water back in from a bucket. Plus I can check out APC while my tank refills


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## snowy

hoppycalif said:


> I think if water sits in contact with a metal such as brass or copper or lead for several hours, and the water has a pH below 7, you might want to worry about contaminating the water. But, water flowing through copper piping, for example, is the tap water we use for water changes, routinely. The water would have to erode or corrode the metal before any significant amount would be introduced to the water. That's one reason water companies raise the pH of water they supply above 7.


I have heard anecdotal evidence to suggest that the pH has to be around 4 degrees or lower for heavy metal contamination of the water to occur, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Mind you, if the water has been sitting in copper pipes for days on end I would probably flush a bit through before adding it directly to the tank, but usually this will happen when you wash your hands prior to working on the tank. You do all wash your hands first, don't you?


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## raggamuffin

this is rocking my world guys! i never even considered you could do water changes with something other than a bucket and syphon! just a question though for all you people who add water to their tanks directly from the tap in their kitchen/bathroom etc., how do you dechlorinate the water? do you just bung some decholrinator liquid straight into the tank?if so does that effect your fish?


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## hoppycalif

raggamuffin said:


> this is rocking my world guys! i never even considered you could do water changes with something other than a bucket and syphon! just a question though for all you people who add water to their tanks directly from the tap in their kitchen/bathroom etc., how do you dechlorinate the water? do you just bung some decholrinator liquid straight into the tank?if so does that effect your fish?


I just did a big water change today, direct from the bathroom sink faucet, using a mix of hot and cold water. I added a capful of Prime to the tank within a couple of minutes of starting to add tap water. That has been my routine for some time now - no fish deaths, no shrimp deaths.


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## JG06

When I get my 28 gallon up and running I plan on plumbing a T and a valve into the output side of the canister filter's return line and after running a hose out the front door, I plan to let to the aquarium pump itself down. 

I keep saying "plan" because I have not got this system up and running up yet. However, I have used this method before with good result. (No hoses to prime!)


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## skinns

Let me share my water issues. I started using tap water in the beginning. Filling up old water jugs then placing them under the cabinets for about a week.. 15 or so of them. This worked great, good healthy fish, happy snails, everything was peachy, until my wife and I realized that we could use the cabinet space. Therefore, I stop setting the water out for a week and went straight from the tab to the tank without any decholrinator chemicals, well that was the week of DEATH as I stat it in my journal. So I decided enough of ‘TAP Water’ and started using ‘reverse osmosis’ water. Well I thought this stuff was gold, until I noticed a complete change in my tank. All the snails died, then there shells disintegrated then the leaves of all my plants rotted off. After some research I learned that ‘Reverse Osmosis’ had absolutely no nutrients at all. Soooooo, I am now using straight ‘Tap Water’ with the addition of PRIME. Life is coming back; Snail (Malaysian Trumpet Snails) population is getting stronger again and so I can get back into the sculpting scape again…


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## adamt

I am hooking up a system much like what jg06 talked about. Except I have an RO storage container in the basement with a mag drive7 in it that pumps the fresh water back into the tank. I have the pump plugged into an outlet that is wired to a switch in my tank stand. I have pictures in another thread on this site somewhere.

My problem now is that I don't have room on my return line for the inline heater, co2 diffusor or pH probe.

Back to the drawing board.


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## gibmaker

*building muscle*

I use nothing but 5 gal buckets and my aquarium is 125 gal. It kind of sucks but I'm ok With it.


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## iris600

I used to use a python (got it on closeout), but it doesn't age gracefully. I ahve now replaced several parts with counterparts from the hardware store. I think it is a relatively inefficient system... so mostly I change by hand or run it out the door to water the yard.
I also water my plants with it. They love it.


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## gotcheaprice

Hey, hoppy, I was wondering how you make the intake exactly. I'm sorta afraid that it'll suck up my fishes. I went to home depot just now, and i got:
10 ft of 3/4 in pvc pipe
a 3/4 in to 1/2 in hose adapter thing 
2x 3/4 in slip 90 elbow
1x slip by female 90 elbow 
3/4 plug(spig?)
and a 3/4 in coupling that I accidentally grabbed xD

I also bought some cpvc cement, but don't know if I wanna use that. I also eventually plan to get closing valve thing(tomorrow maybe?) like yours. What do you suggest for sealing the cement together, and do you think my thing will work? I'll psot a diagram a little later, or maybe tomorrow.
To prevent too much suction, I was thinking of getting another 3/4 slip 90 elbow and then put another piece of pipe with drilled holes all over it, and the plug on the end, but I'm just afraid of the cpvc cement thing.

Thank you!

Horray for paint 
The bar on the right extends flat, tried to make it 3d, but my art skills fail me.


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## hoppycalif

gotcheaprice said:


> Hey, hoppy, I was wondering how you make the intake exactly. I'm sorta afraid that it'll suck up my fishes. I went to home depot just now, and i got:
> 10 ft of 3/4 in pvc pipe
> a 3/4 in to 1/2 in hose adapter thing
> 2x 3/4 in slip 90 elbow
> 1x slip by female 90 elbow
> 3/4 plug(spig?)
> and a 3/4 in coupling that I accidentally grabbed xD
> 
> I also bought some cpvc cement, but don't know if I wanna use that. I also eventually plan to get closing valve thing(tomorrow maybe?) like yours. What do you suggest for sealing the cement together, and do you think my thing will work? I'll psot a diagram a little later, or maybe tomorrow.
> To prevent too much suction, I was thinking of getting another 3/4 slip 90 elbow and then put another piece of pipe with drilled holes all over it, and the plug on the end, but I'm just afraid of the cpvc cement thing.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Horray for paint
> The bar on the right extends flat, tried to make it 3d, but my art skills fail me.


My intake is just the open end of the pipe. On rare occasions a fish will get sucked up, but it is unusual. I siphon pretty slowly, probably because of the length of hose I use, and the head only being about a foot, so the suction isn't much. When I first started using this system several years ago, I put a cap on that open pipe and drilled a few 1/8" diameter holes in the pipe, so only the very smallest baby fish could get through. I had mostly platys at that time. Now, if I were to be worried I would probably take a piece of womens nylon hose and put it over the open pipe to act as a screen.


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## gpodio

Here's what I've always used:










I used PVC solvent to 'glue' a flat piece of PVC on the end and drilled a hole to drain the water out of it when I pull it out of the tank. Works great. The tube with all the holes is not glued in place, I have several different lengths of perforated tubes for the various tanks I have, this way the siphon breaks automatically where I need it to each time.

The rest of the setup is a DIY python using a waterbed fill/empty adapter. I also use this pipe for temporary closed loops and canister intakes.

I'm also working on automating water changes for the reef tank, it's kind of overkill but I enjoy playing with this stuff  It would be easier for a freshwater tank, I just don't have one positioned in such a way to easily reach it with plumbing and CAT5 cables... I'm just starting to document the setup at the end of this page:
http://www.gpodio.com/180g_build.asp

Regards
Giancarlo Podio


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## gotcheaprice

Alright, thank you for the tips!
I guess all I need now is a valve. And I'll just put the tube from a siphon around it, and a net or something, since I'm siphoning out a window 2nd floor(lots of pressure xD)


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## Fortuna Wolf

My 125 is a few feet from a window so I just run a hose out the window to let it drain, 
but I still end up lugging buckets across the house to fill it back up. We have no well right now (I wish I had some wonderful chlorine free hard water). How are you dealing with chlorine in the water when you refill? I'd love to run a hose directly from the faucet to the tank but our water is heavily chlorinated (GF forgot to dechlorinate her water once and lost everything but the betta). 

Can I just add the dechlorinator directly to the tank water and assume that as the incoming water mixes with the water already in the tank it'll dechlorinate fast enough that it won't harm anyone in the tank?


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## hoppycalif

Fortuna Wolf said:


> My 125 is a few feet from a window so I just run a hose out the window to let it drain,
> but I still end up lugging buckets across the house to fill it back up. We have no well right now (I wish I had some wonderful chlorine free hard water). How are you dealing with chlorine in the water when you refill? I'd love to run a hose directly from the faucet to the tank but our water is heavily chlorinated (GF forgot to dechlorinate her water once and lost everything but the betta).
> 
> Can I just add the dechlorinator directly to the tank water and assume that as the incoming water mixes with the water already in the tank it'll dechlorinate fast enough that it won't harm anyone in the tank?


That is the method I use, and I think most people use. Drain off the water in the tank. Add enough Prime to what is left to dechlor a full tank of water, then add the chlorinated water. I don't know why this works, but it always works for me.


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## Fortuna Wolf

At what rate do you add the water, or does it not matter?
I think I'm going to try to build a setup to refill it from one of the faucets here. I'm sick and tired of lugging 10 buckets to do a 20% water change.


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## MiSo

i use a eheim hobby pump to get water out. i just run the water right into the sink. 
then i let the faucet fill a bucket and pump water back into the aqurium. 
much faster then letting gravity do the work.


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## ColdServings

My water change system is pretty crude. It consists of a garden hose run outside to siphon water out of the tank. Then a pond pump in the bottom of the 33 gal rubbermaid garage can I use as an aging reservoir for my water (with Amquel Plus added to deal with the chloramines Indianapolis uses--the aging is mostly to get the water up to room temperature before it goes into the tank, minimizing temperature changes in the tank water) to put the replacement water into the tank. I fill the reservoir either with a garden hose run from the tap outside or (when that's frozen) by running buckets back and forth from the bathroom).


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## gpodio

Fortuna Wolf said:


> My 125 is a few feet from a window so I just run a hose out the window to let it drain,
> but I still end up lugging buckets across the house to fill it back up. We have no well right now (I wish I had some wonderful chlorine free hard water). How are you dealing with chlorine in the water when you refill? I'd love to run a hose directly from the faucet to the tank but our water is heavily chlorinated (GF forgot to dechlorinate her water once and lost everything but the betta).
> 
> Can I just add the dechlorinator directly to the tank water and assume that as the incoming water mixes with the water already in the tank it'll dechlorinate fast enough that it won't harm anyone in the tank?


That's what I do. I use Tetra AquaSafe and dose a full dose in the tank as I start to refill the tank from the tap. Once full or just about, I add another 5ml just for the heck of it... I remember being scared of doing so a while back but once I tried it I have yet to encounter any problems and don't miss the bucket brigade one little bit! I too wiped out an entire tank a while back trying a different conditioner that did not take care of heavy metals, not a pleasant way to discover what your tap water consists of...

Hope it works just as good for you
Giancarlo Podio


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## dawntwister

MiSo said:


> i use a eheim hobby pump to get water out. i just run the water right into the sink.
> then i let the faucet fill a bucket and pump water back into the aqurium.
> much faster then letting gravity do the work.


What about the temperature difference of the tap water and tank water? For this time of year the temp of my tap water is different from tanks water. Won't the difference in temp cause shock?


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## gotcheaprice

Well, it's the same as just running it through from the tap, but I guess you could warm up the water in the bucket, use warm water, or even a heater before running the pump back.


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## gpodio

I just bring a cup of tank water to the sink and mix hot and cold tap water until the two feel the same to the touch. Never had a problem doing it this way.

Hope that helps
Giancarlo Podio


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## DaveS

I wish I could use a Python type system. My tap water starts with a pH of 10+, so I have to age my water for a day before it goes in the tanks. I use a 40 gallon trash can with a heater suspended in the center plus two airstones to keep things from getting stagnant. I still use a five gallon bucket to remove the old water from the tanks (four of them). I net out the gunk and dump the water in my sump hole. I then use a MaxiJet powerhead to remove water from the trash can (back to a clean bucket) and another powerhead to get the water from the bucket to the tank. Needless to say, my waterchanges take more than ten minutes! One of these days I'll find a better method ....

Dave


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## Mr. Fish

John N. said:


> Cool System Hop!
> 
> Very similar to what you created. I just use the Python No Spill System.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Big Al's Python No Spill System_
> 
> Ever since I started using this hose system, water changes are about 10 minutes from start to finish, and no waterspill on the carpet or tiles, and no lugging buckets and stove pots of water around. I don't think it can get much easier than this.
> 
> -John N.


I actually just ordered this.... Havent got to use it yet, but a quick question...
Do you have to sipher the water out ? Or does it sipher the water auto ?


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## gotcheaprice

If you turn on the water, it's automatic.


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## Heinzanova

I use a standard Python kit at home, but at work I had to get more creative, so I have a 6 ga bucket, a triple D cell electric pump (3-5 gallons per minute) fitted with a normal garden hose end, which I have mounted a variable flow sprinkler head so I can pump into the tank delicately with out causing the soil to be knocked around.


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## Diana K

To empty the tanks:
I have 3 gravel vacs (small, medium, large) and run the water into a storage container. (A rectangular box about 16" x 16" x 24") 
Use the water drained from the tank to clean the filter. I do not often do an actual gravel vac, but I can. 
Run a pump and garden hose through the house to empty this box. Hose discharges to various garden plants, I move the hose between plants depending on the size of the plant. 
If I do not want to clean the filter I will just put the pump directly into the tank. The pump can be hung from the edge of the tank at whatever level I want. When the water level is getting close I will turn off the pump and the water will continue siphoning out until the pump is out of the water. 

To fill:
Cannot use tap water directly, gas bubbles killed a few fish a year ago. 
Garden hose connects to the shower head (plumbing adapters available at hardware stores)
Run hot and cold water until the temperature is right and fill up 2 garbage cans. 
One can is Rubbermaid Brute, 32 gallon, on wheels. This can has a nylon stocking of peat moss. 
Other can is smaller, (20 gallons) and no wheels. I generally use this can for hard water tanks. 
Add whatever I want to the garbage cans (dechlor, baking soda, GH booster, Corallife salt for the brackish tank...) and circulate the water for at least half an hour, though I have also kept them going for a few days. Add an aquarium heater if I know it will be long enough for the water to get cold. (if I forget I will simply run some hot water into the garbage can, or heat the water from the can on the stove) 
Fill the tanks with a fountain pump and vinyl tubing. I have several pumps. 150 gph is about right for smaller tanks. The head slows the water flow so that the water does not blast the substrate all over the place. Larger pump is OK on a larger tank, and aim the tubing to direct the water away from the substrate. 

I use quite a few spring clamps to keep the tubing from jumping out of the tanks and such.

Using this system I can do all the tanks in about 3 hours. (simple 50% water swap, no filter cleaning or gravel vacs) 
When I could fill from the tap I could do them all in about 2 hours.


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## viridari

Before any of you buy the Python, let me add a word.

I've had a Python for many years. It does what it promises to do in the ad. But it is made entirely of low-grade cheap-o plastic.

Make sure you have a source for spare parts!

Honestly, the next time my Python breaks (and it shouldn't be long) I intend to replace it entirely with parts sourced from the local hardware store, using standard plumbing supplies. ESPECIALLY the part that threads onto your faucet, which really should be a brass fitting and not soft plastic. The python valves are really cheap-o, as well.


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## Tankerblade

gpodio said:


> Here's what I've always used:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used PVC solvent to 'glue' a flat piece of PVC on the end and drilled a hole to drain the water out of it when I pull it out of the tank. Works great. The tube with all the holes is not glued in place, I have several different lengths of perforated tubes for the various tanks I have, this way the siphon breaks automatically where I need it to each time.
> 
> The rest of the setup is a DIY python using a waterbed fill/empty adapter. I also use this pipe for temporary closed loops and canister intakes.
> 
> I'm also working on automating water changes for the reef tank, it's kind of overkill but I enjoy playing with this stuff  It would be easier for a freshwater tank, I just don't have one positioned in such a way to easily reach it with plumbing and CAT5 cables... I'm just starting to document the setup at the end of this page:
> http://www.gpodio.com/180g_build.asp
> 
> Regards
> Giancarlo Podio


howdy i saw your design and i like it quite a bit. to siphon the water out do you just stick some tubing on and let it drain into a bucket? and do you refill your tank by just pumping it back through your little design?

also what parts did you use to make your little do dad.


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## orlando

These work very well.. I use them on a few tanks.


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## ohcrapitsanewt

gpodio said:


> Here's what I've always used:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used PVC solvent to 'glue' a flat piece of PVC on the end and drilled a hole to drain the water out of it when I pull it out of the tank. Works great. The tube with all the holes is not glued in place, I have several different lengths of perforated tubes for the various tanks I have, this way the siphon breaks automatically where I need it to each time.
> 
> The rest of the setup is a DIY python using a waterbed fill/empty adapter. I also use this pipe for temporary closed loops and canister intakes.
> 
> I'm also working on automating water changes for the reef tank, it's kind of overkill but I enjoy playing with this stuff  It would be easier for a freshwater tank, I just don't have one positioned in such a way to easily reach it with plumbing and CAT5 cables... I'm just starting to document the setup at the end of this page:
> http://www.gpodio.com/180g_build.asp
> 
> Regards
> Giancarlo Podio


I think that this is a really neat design. I have now decided to incorporate this design into my upcoming paludarium because water changes have always been my biggest hate in aquarium keeping. I am hoping to start that project soon so I will have a construction journal starting ASAP.

So, many compliments on the siphoning attachment.

Aloha,
John


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## Hammer71

No offense to anyone here, but from what I have read most of you don’t have more than 5 tanks except for one person who has 20. I have 40 tanks and do water changes once a week on guppy tanks and every day to every other on angel and discus tanks. I stick with my method of a siphon and bucket except where there is a drain. It gives me a chance to see how my fish are doing and exercise from walking and lifting. If I do go to a water change system it is going to be automatic, which will still require siphoning the bottom of the tanks and the use of drip emitters and bulkheads. Some of my friends use an inline water pump with one hose going to the drain and the other to the tank, this way they can get all the detris off the bottom of the tank. One even uses a submersible sump pump! That is going too far for me at least by putting it inside. Bear in mind that most of their tanks are bear. The majority of mine are too, but I still have some left as it is hard to get away from planted tanks. However I do use a submersible sump pump for moving aged water from barrels to my tanks.


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## gotcheaprice

Hammer71 said:


> No offense to anyone here, but from what I have read most of you don't have more than 5 tanks except for one person who has 20. I have 40 tanks and do water changes once a week on guppy tanks and every day to every other on angel and discus tanks. I stick with my method of a siphon and bucket except where there is a drain. It gives me a chance to see how my fish are doing and exercise from walking and lifting. If I do go to a water change system it is going to be automatic, which will still require siphoning the bottom of the tanks and the use of drip emitters and bulkheads. Some of my friends use an inline water pump with one hose going to the drain and the other to the tank, this way they can get all the detris off the bottom of the tank. One even uses a submersible sump pump! That is going too far for me at least by putting it inside. Bear in mind that most of their tanks are bear. The majority of mine are too, but I still have some left as it is hard to get away from planted tanks. However I do use a submersible sump pump for moving aged water from barrels to my tanks.


Yes, most of us don't have more than 5 tanks. Most of us don't have the room/time/money to have 40 tanks O_O I myself only have 4, but I to sorta keep the time on my water changes short as I have school work, etc. I also like having a time to just stand and watch the fish, and not be sucking out the water worrying about spillage etc, and exercise is left in our weight room xD

And I build something similar to gpodio, except I have a hose attachment where I attach a garden hose to the end of the pipe. I never drilled any holes either.


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## DirtyBlackSocks

viridari said:


> Before any of you buy the Python, let me add a word.
> 
> I've had a Python for many years. It does what it promises to do in the ad. But it is made entirely of low-grade cheap-o plastic.
> 
> Make sure you have a source for spare parts!
> 
> Honestly, the next time my Python breaks (and it shouldn't be long) I intend to replace it entirely with parts sourced from the local hardware store, using standard plumbing supplies. ESPECIALLY the part that threads onto your faucet, which really should be a brass fitting and not soft plastic. The python valves are really cheap-o, as well.


You mean something like D and F on this page?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...challpartial&Ntk=All&pc=1&N=0&Ntt=python&Np=1

I'd recommend everyone buy the brass adapter to save themselves a lot of money and heart ache in the long run with their python systems.


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## BigB

I have those big 5 gal water jugs, I started using RO water recently and I use our RO system we got long ago for drinking water.

I fill a 5gal jug a day and do a water change with it. I end up doing water changes on each big tank 75 & 55 daily of 5 gal. Whenever i walk buy the RO faucet and its done filling the 5gal reserve tank, i fill up LOL. My fish seem to like it alot more then one big change of 35-50%.

I used to do the whole out the door method drag a 40foot hose from faucet to tank stuff, In Phoenix, Az the water was always either to cold in winter or 99degrees in summer. I had to drip it into the tank and it took hours! Now i take 10min a day empty 5gal into one jug, fill up tank with 5gal from another jug daily. SO MUCH EASIER!


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## ISIPPLE

I bought a Python siphon about a year ago and shortly after I started to lose pressure in the valve that connected to my sink. I upgraded to a different type that uses a ball valve and a brass fitting so I don't have to worry about plastic pieces breaking during water changes. Ever since, everything has been working perfectly.


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## nationof2

Friends don't let friends use buckets to perform water changes. We should try to get this practice abolished.


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## cleek

I use a pump to take water out and back in , connected to a hose


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## DMHdispute

Currently i siphon the water out with a gravel vac and let it go out the window that is inches from my tank. Then I use a big pot to carry water from the kitchen to the tank. I plan to get a no spill system soon, but until then can anybody tell me how they put water back in with a bucket withour making a big crater in your substrate? I try to dump it in slow but it take too long.


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## cleek

I tried to prevent making a crater in mine when i was using plastic milk containers , U gotta pour it slowly but it strains your biceps bigtime imo


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## cleek

Your best bet is getting a pond pump for 20 bucks


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## n00dl3

Mr. Fish said:


> I actually just ordered this.... Havent got to use it yet, but a quick question...
> Do you have to sipher the water out ? Or does it sipher the water auto ?


I used to do that... until I moved to my own place. Now the basement is mine. So I spent some well worth $$$ for a diy automatic water changing system. Before I every sunday I would literally spend 4-5 hours siphoning and putting water back... lots of work hard and takes the joy out of keeping fish. It was more like working instead of spend those time to enjoy my fish. Now with automated system, on Sunday I will only spend 30-45 minutes to siphon all the poop. Then the rest of the time I can admire my fish and think how to get them to breed for me.

Btw, I have 15 tanks totally 555 gallons.

Sorry, no pictures as my camera battery is dead.


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## gpodio

DMHdispute said:


> Currently i siphon the water out with a gravel vac and let it go out the window that is inches from my tank. Then I use a big pot to carry water from the kitchen to the tank. I plan to get a no spill system soon, but until then can anybody tell me how they put water back in with a bucket withour making a big crater in your substrate? I try to dump it in slow but it take too long.


When I used to do the bucket brigade, I'd rest a 5g bucket of tap water on the corner of the tank itself, then using a small diameter piece of tubing I'd start the siphon from the bucket down to the tank... obviously if you have a small tank it may not be safe to rest a bucket on it... I was doing this on 55g tank and above. Otherwise a cheap small pump that has a head rating capable of pumping water from the floor up to the tank...

At worst, find a clean piece of foam sheet to float over the water so that you can pour the bucket over the foam... 

Giancarlo


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