# Help aquascaping - room divider!



## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

I have just been asked to install a planted aquarium as a room divider (viewable from both sides). Having never done such a tank, I need some advice on the aquascaping and plant selection.

Here are the tank specs:

- 100cm x 40cm x 50cm (40" x 16" x 20") - 200 liters (53g)
- Open top with Arcadia T5 lighting: 4x39w
- Fluorite substrate (if the shipping cost from the UK isn't too outrageous! otherwise plain gravel)
- Pressurized CO2 with controller and AM 1000 reactor
- Eheim 2216 (or 2206 with Hydor in-line heater: cheaper)
- Automatic dosing for ferts
- Moderate fish load

Another option for the tank would be 100cm x 50cm x 50cm (40" x 20" x 20") - 250 liters (66g). Would the extra width make any difference?

The tank will get maintenance once a week but I'd like to limit the amount of time each visit takes so less pruning is better than more!

Ok everyone, let's see the design skills on this forum... this really needs to be one of those "WOW" tanks!

Fish suggestions are also welcome.

Many thanks in advance!


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## Praxx42 (Mar 4, 2005)

Well, you're going to be around 2.75-3.25WPG. Since you want to go low-pruning, seems like ferns and the like might work best.

I posted an article on autoDoing in the DIY section which might help.

I suggest Rummynose tetras because they school constantly and are very eye-catching (but I suggest rummies to everyone, so...)

I've set up a room divider 55G before. Here's a pic:








This was supposed to be viewable on both sides. I made some changes before tearing this one down, I removed the crypts from the front of the tank and tied 45+ baby java ferns to the driftwood on the right.

That's about all I have this early in the morning.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

;-) See all the aquascapers run like crazy at the thought of a tank that needs to be viewed from two sides...  

Praxx, thanks and I did see your article on auto-dosing.

Anyone........?


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## Snowman (Mar 22, 2005)

Well it looks as if I spent sometime putting a reply together just to loose it while doing spell check...I'll see if I can do it again 

I normally wouldn't post a reply to your question but want to try and spark a response for you from what I have planned. Definitely not trying to hi-jack your post so I'll delete this if you want!

I have a custom 187 on order 72x24x25 I had a fake wall put in it on one end that takes up 4.5" of the tank but creates an end overflow allowing me to have three bulk heads in the bottom of the tank and one in the wall it's self at 6" off the bottom of the tank. Two of the bulk heads on the bottom are drains to closed loop canister filter and inline equipment. I used two returns sized so that each can take full flow if needed in the event of one being plugged. The third bulk head is the return and it comes through the bottom of the tank then the return overflow wall it's self 6" off the bottom of the tank. I have been thinking that making a rock wall island that the return runs inside of might be good. This would allow me to branch the return in a few places on both sides of the wall and have substrate inside of the island for planting items normally only used on low areas... kind of a terraced effect. As far as plants go I'm at a loss because I'm just in the planning stages of this type of tank and my experience is not one to give advice. I guess one thing I like the idea of is maybe using some type of Val that doesn't get to tall or a thick blade grass planted think enough so that you can still see through it...My entire plan may be a poor one I'm just trying to help get some input. One thing I would say is go for the wider tank IMO wider would always be better on a room divider tank, I'm sure you want to consider the length too but being able to make a divided tank look right would need width...just my 2 little cents.

Best of luck! Post the results.

Jarrell


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## jsenske (Mar 15, 2004)

I've done a few. I don't really have much advice other than visualize the composition at length before executing. Think about all the angles of view and be creative. I think an island-type layout can be an easy reference point- something with equal dimensionality from both/all sides. Have a look at my website www.aquariumdesigngroup.com <portfolio<aquariums<live plant tanks. You'll know the room dividers when you see them. Let me know if you have any specific questions.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Thanks for the inputs.

Jeff, I like the "island" idea. Question: In your pictures you never see any hardware. Are you removing it for the pics?

Hardware I'll be having in the tank: Eheim Installation kits 1 & 2 (the grey ones), the pH probe and the temp sensor. The auto fert dosing tubes will go into the Eheim output hose.

How best to "hide" this hardware? Maybe not use a spray bar as this is the biggest and most visible item?


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Another question: I really want to do an open top tank. Is this a bad idea?

The tank will be in a spa/physiotherapist/fitness center. Is there too much risk of someone dumping something into the tank?

Jeff, I notice you don't have any pics of open top aquariums in your pics. Is it because of this? or to avoid the evaporation issue?


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## MiamiAG (Jan 13, 2004)

Laith,

I've always had an open top tank. To date, (knock on wood) nothing has fallen into it. I don't think it's a bad idea at all. They look very nice and provide for very stable water temps. Evaporation is also not much of a problem.


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## jsenske (Mar 15, 2004)

Most all the room divider tanks I have done had overflows and/or Eheim 2260s plumbed from the bottom- which is great for hiding intakes/returns but horrible for having to aquascape around! 

I do not see anything wrong with an open-top so long as it fits the space/needs of the space.


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## jppurchase (Dec 15, 2004)

Laith said:


> Another question: I really want to do an open top tank. Is this a bad idea?
> 
> The tank will be in a spa/physiotherapist/fitness center. Is there too much risk of someone dumping something into the tank?


I once had a cat that used to jump up on the glass tank cover over a 90 gallon tank and watch the fish, all the while trying to catch a free meal.

Nothing I could do would stop that cat from landing on the aquarium cover-glass, until I removed the glass while the cat was in another room. Not noticing anything different, the cat made a spring for the top of the tank, and promptly went for a swim. The crying and mewing was very loud and the once fluffy cat looked pitiful as I lifted her out of the water. That was the LAST time that she ever went near the aquarium.

An open top tank in a public area ought to have a sign posted close to it asking people to refrain from dropping items into the water. I have done this in a system I installed in a hospice facility here in Toronto. So far, it has worked.

James Purchase
Toronto


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## Andrew-amano-wannabe (Jun 29, 2005)

i love open top tanks my advice go for it, they look superior somehow and expensive, so will be a great addition to your portfolio!
as for the divider, if its to be viewed on the two length sides, how about the opposite of an island, how about a river cross section i.e. a u shape, might have to get creative with the intake output of the filter tho. good luck dont forget to take pics.


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## nevada (Apr 3, 2005)

maybe you can go for a rock setup? it looks best for a room divider as it can be viewed from 3 side ...

if did mine and it looks very suitable for room divider ...

http://www.shrimpnow.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83&stc=1


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## Fosty (Jun 6, 2004)

> Another option for the tank would be 100cm x 50cm x 50cm (40" x 20" x 20") - 250 liters (66g). Would the extra width make any difference?


I'd go for the wider tank. IMO they are much easier to aquascape, and it would seem like it would be twice as important in a tank to be viewed from two sides. I'm assuming that since the tank will be in a spa/physiotherapist/fitness center, that they are paying for this and that they will at least pay for the equipment. If thats the case, make sure to get good equipment from the beginning (i.e. go with Fluorite). I would imagine that a good layout for a two sided tank would be a mound/island setup with good rockwork and driftwood, they seem to be less hassel and they are great with ferns, anubias, and other slow growers. Another idea would be to go with a iwigumi aquasape. This would probably look good from both sides.


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## nevada (Apr 3, 2005)

Fosty said:


> I'd go for the wider tank. IMO they are much easier to aquascape, and it would seem like it would be twice as important in a tank to be viewed from two sides. I'm assuming that since the tank will be in a spa/physiotherapist/fitness center, that they are paying for this and that they will at least pay for the equipment. If thats the case, make sure to get good equipment from the beginning (i.e. go with Fluorite). I would imagine that a good layout for a two sided tank would be a mound/island setup with good rockwork and driftwood, they seem to be less hassel and they are great with ferns, anubias, and other slow growers. Another idea would be to go with a iwigumi aquasape. This would probably look good from both sides.


provided he have the space  but i totally agree that the wider tank will make the aquascaping more easier ...

Gd luck!


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Thanks for the added input!

I'm going with the wider tank. The only issue I'm having at the moment is that I want a tank with neither a top brace nor those horizontal strips of glass siliconed to the top of the front and back panes...

It seems that tanks like this are custom made because you need to use thicker glass. I'm waiting for some quotes at the moment.


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## freshreef (May 14, 2004)

http://www.freshreef.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5132


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