# AquaRay GroBeam LED question



## chlorophonia (Mar 4, 2012)

Hi everyone

First off, I'm new here and this is my first post, so please excuse my noob-iness 

In November, I started a 55 gal planted tank. For lighting, I have eight AquaRay GroBeam 500 LED strips suspended over the open top of the tank, 4" above water surface and c.20-21" above substrate surface (Eco-Complete). My question for you all is twofold:

1. How bright is this considered to be at the substrate surface? Low, medium, bright? In terms of watts per gallon, it's not high - each GroBeam is 12W, so 8x is 96W, around 2WPG. But, I'm confused because I've read several places that LED light has better PAR and the WPG rule doesn't apply. Would love to hear from others with experience with these lights.

2. The second part of this question is, what sorts of foreground plants would grow with this set-up? Ask because I've been struggling with my original choice of Lilaeopsis brasiliensis microsword (very little growth, looks like crap). What other foreground plants can I consider? Do I have anywhere near enough light for Hemianthus callitrichoides? Any other suggestions please?

Some of the other details of my set-up may be useful: GH is 6, KH is 5. I have pressurized CO2 hooked up to pH monitor, keeps pH at 6.5-6.6. Fertilizing according to PPS-pro scheme. Nitrates are around 10ppm. Do 50% water change weekly. So far I've had ok success growing Hydrocotyle leucocephala, Echinodorus amazonicus, E. tenellus, E. bleheri, Cabomba caroliniana and Myriophyllum mattagrosense at the fairly high temperatures I'm maintaining for my discus (84-85F).

Any and all insights and ideas will be very welcome! Thank you all.

Stephen

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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Hey Stephen, welcome to APC. That seems like a high light setup to me if that's basically what you are asking? 

I suspect you'll find not all plants will like those high temperatures you keep for your discus. You'll be able to keep a wider variety if you could drop the temp down to 80 degrees or so. 

I notice too that you're in Silver Spring. Check out the link to our local plant club in my signature if you're not already a member. It's a great club.


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## chlorophonia (Mar 4, 2012)

Hi Aaron

Thanks for the reply and the welcome! I am not a GWAPA member as I am still very new to this (as you can probably tell), but will definitely check it out. I need all the help I can get 

I suspect I am overdoing it on the light. I didn't really know what I was doing when I bought the gear and I think a couple of bad experiences with poor lights had me swing in the direction of overkill! I'm suspecting I still don't have my light, CO2 and nutrients in balance? What I'd specifically like help with is balancing CO2 and nutrients with these LED lights. I've had a hard time finding answers so far. The nice thing with the LEDs is that I can dim them and run them at less than maximum output, so that's another option to consider.

The temperature is an issue. I have some young discus at the moment and have been advised to keep the temperature up for them. Hopefully once they mature I can reduce it a bit, but my understanding is that discus won't be happy below 82F, so I will still be limited?

Thanks again!

Stephen

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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Don't discus love soft water? I would think lowering your KH down to 2 or so would be a higher priority than keeping the temperature so high. Of course, keeping fish has always been secondary to me to keeping plants so perhaps I'm not the greatest authority on the subject. There's a local chiclid club around here too that might have some answers regarding safe temps.

As far as CO2 you can aim for 15-25 ppm and you'll be set. Keep in mind that pH controllers really only work perfectly in a "perfect" system where there are no buffers of any sort present. I'm not saying they aren't useful, but observation is also key. A simple drop checker is a good way to check CO2 levels too.


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## chlorophonia (Mar 4, 2012)

Hi Aaron

Thanks again. Yes, I think the conventional wisdom is that discus prefer soft water, though I've also read that it's not as important as once thought. I'd been running the tank at GH4-5 and KH3, but was curious whether slightly higher hardness would benefit the plants, so I've shifted it up a little over the last couple water changes. I can't say I've noticed any difference in either the plants or the discus! Do you have thoughts on best hardness levels for plants?

I do have a drop checker in the tank too - the double type with the reference solution. It's at the opposite end of the tank to the CO2 line. The test solution is always as green or slightly yellower than the reference, which I think is what would be expected for the pH and KH I have. As I've increased the KH slightly over the last couple weeks, the test solution has gotten slightly yellower - concerned I might be pushing dangerous CO2 levels, so will likely return KH back to 3 and/or adjust the pH up a little soon. I dont have one of those KH/pH/CO2 tables in front of me, but i thought a KH of 3 and pH 6.6 or thereabouts would put me in the right range with CO2 levels?

It was suggested that I try the drop checker in different places around the tank, which I haven't done yet. I think I have pretty good circulation, but it will be interesting to see if the color is different in different spots!

Thanks again for the suggestions - I really appreciate it! Oh - and I sent my membership for GWAPA earlier today!


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Cool. Welcome to the club. Kris, our webmaster, should be contacting you soon to give you full access to our forums if he hasn't already.

Yeah, if you're pushing your KH up you should definitely adjust your pH controller accordingly. 

IME softer water is better for the vast majority of plants. I mix RO with tap water to achieve a KH of around 2. I've had it even lower than that and they thrive. GH is more important for plants and even that only needs to be about 6.


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## chlorophonia (Mar 4, 2012)

Kris already sorted me out

Good to know re GH and KH. Will keep GH about the same and bring the KH back down. Would guess that Ca and Mg concentrations are more important for plants than buffering capacity, so long as CO2 levels are adequate? Dropped the temp a little yesterday and adjusted it down again tonight. I don't doubting this high temp discus stuff Everyone seems ok so far. We'll see!

Thanks again Aaron!

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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

chlorophonia said:


> Kris already sorted me out
> 
> Good to know re GH and KH. Will keep GH about the same and bring the KH back down. Would guess that Ca and Mg concentrations are more important for plants than buffering capacity, so long as CO2 levels are adequate? Dropped the temp a little yesterday and adjusted it down again tonight. I don't doubting this high temp discus stuff Everyone seems ok so far. We'll see!
> 
> ...


Right, buffering capacity isn't much of a concern. Softer water is better for lots of reasons. It allows the nutrients to more easily enter the water column, including CO2. Think of it like mixing ferts. If you try to mix a high concentration it's harder to get it all into solution. I'm not much good on the science behind it, but if you read around in the fertilizers forum you'll find lots of good info, especially from Edward.


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