# Unconventional tops



## deepdiver (May 30, 2006)

I'm planning a stand for a 20L. The plan is to mount lights a foot or so over the water, but I want a top to keep evaporation to a minimum. After brainstorming a bit I've come up with a three options.

1. The easiest way to go would be to buy one of those split-in-half manufactured glass tops. Unfortunately, all of these type half plastic at the hinges which will create a shadowed section through the middle of the layout. I scrapped this option.

2. Plexiglass. Pro-easy to cut for a "window" for feeding and for hardware. Con-I think it may yellow over time.

3. Glass. Pro-Consistent clarity. Con-Hard to cut.


What does everyone think? I'm looking for some ideas here.


----------



## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I know the goal is to minimize evaporation with a top cover but I personally would just top off the water every week or so as needed and avoid the hassels/cons of having a top cover.

-Plexiglass will bend and actually hinders light from shining through. You'll notice condensation will build up on the glass itself thereby stopping the light. And as you mentioned it will discolor over time. 

-Glass top won't bend, but again condensation, water stains and lost light as a result. I suppose if you keep it clean wipe off the condensation + dust build up on the top this would be the best option to go with. But again I would go "top less."

-John N.


----------



## NoSvOrAx (Nov 11, 2006)

Since I assume your consider a single piece of plexi or glass. How about you take a glass top and remove the hinge? You'll have a tiny seperation between them but your not going to see tons of loss from evaporation..... 2 pieces also make it easier to remove and clean the glass.


----------



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I agree with John - just go topless, and add make-up water as needed. The only reason I see for a top is if you have jumping fish that love to go on a flight. Then, you don't have much choice. I suspect it is less work to top off the water than to constantly clean the top.


----------



## K20A2 (Aug 12, 2006)

hoppycalif said:


> I suspect it is less work to top off the water than to constantly clean the top.


I cant agree with this statement enough.


----------



## Legacy2005 (Sep 18, 2007)

definately a lot easier to top off then to wipe the glass top everyday. ive thought of going top less but id be worried that the shrimp would take flight and end up on the floor.

another idea may be to get some screen and make a frame for it and use that over the top. i was able to find a premade one for a window that i use over my small cherry tank. no worries for jumpers and no hasle of cleaning glass.


----------



## kwc1974 (Jan 4, 2006)

This is a problem I have delt with before.

I am currently going "toppless" or open tank. The only time I would use a top is with a fish that regularly jumps out of the tank. If I do use tops I use glass, and even then ventalate the top. I know this defeats the evaporation solution that a glass top would give you, but like it has been said above it is way easier to add water then to clean the top.


----------



## cholly (Jun 12, 2007)

This is a problem I've dealt with before at considerable length. When you've got an unconvential size, custom made open-top reef setup with an internal sump and you find yourself losing about 10 gallons of water a week during the winter months on a 40 gallon tank like I did, you spend a lot of time looking at options.

Anyway, first things first: what kind of lights are you using? Considering the distance above the tank you plan to keep the bulbs I'm guessing halides... any supplemental flourescent tubes? The reason why I'm asking is because those plastic strip hinges that come with the prepackaged glass tops are only really a problem if you're using just a point source (like a halide) for your lighting. If there's a floro tube or two in conjunction with the halides, the coverage will effectively wipe out that shadow from a viewing perspective.

Another option of course is to use the prepackaged glass tops and just remove the hinge entirely.

Plexiglass and acrylic both have issues in this application. Plexi will yellow over time, and both will deform over time due to the heat from the bulbs unless the sheets are pretty thick (and the thicker they are, the more usable light they block). For long term use with any sort of high intensity lighting I wouldn't suggest going this route, unless you don't mind periodically replacing the covers as they warp.


----------



## DMHdispute (Oct 23, 2007)

If i diddnt have cats id go topless in a heartbeat, my glass tops are always getting dry water spots on it that are hard to get off.


----------



## treefish (Oct 10, 2007)

When I went without a top, my tank collected debris from my apparently dirty room.
I had a moth problem for a while. They committed suicide in the water quite frequently. I guess they were attracted to the light. That wouldn't have been so bad if I had fish to eat them.


----------



## Ghazanfar Ghori (Jan 27, 2004)

How about going with the regular glass top, take hinge the off and leave a gap there. It may be just enough not to get condensation and lower the evap rate a bit.


----------



## diablocanine (Jul 25, 2004)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/42194-sliding-glass-top-how.html


----------

