# [Wet Thumb Forum]-Filtering a 100 gallon aquarium (advice on filter/heater selection please)



## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

I'm ordeering a custom built tank this week, so I have to finalize me selections for filtering this week too. I need to know how many holes to have puit in the bottom of the tank (for cansiter filters, etc) or if I should use an overflow/sump.

Since it's a dutch style aquarium, I feal that an overflow is out of the question. Overflows take up space and are also noisy. I want an aquarium that is as quiet as possible, so that is a consideration in filter selection. For now, I am planning on using one or two canister filters.

Also, how will I heat the tank if I use canister filters. If I was using a sump, this is an easy question to answer, but that is not the case unless someone convinces me that's the way to go. I really want to keep the heaters out of sight. I can drop them in from the top and let the plants hide everything, but I really want EVERYTHING hidden









Now for canister selection. I know cansiters are made that can have heaters in them. Do these work good enough? Eheim seems the way to go from posts I have read. There is another brand, Ocean something that was recomended that I will coonsider.

Dumb question of the day. I've never used canister filters before, so please don't laugh. Do cansiters normally come with built in pumps? I'd imagine this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model.

This is enough for hte first post. I'm sure this will develop into an interesting conversation









The benefit to everyone is that I am documenting everything on my web page and everyone here will get to see the work in progress. I might (probably will) start a thread in the proper forum for the evolution of my aquarium also









Also, feal free to recomend heating/filtering. Please include specific models if you do. IMHO, more filtering is much better than "just enough". My current tank gets the water cycled 11 times per hour







Remember that this is a 100 gallon aquarium and has yet to be ordered, so pretty much anything can be recomended!

THANK YOU,
Karl Herman
FYI: This is essentially a contiuation of this thread. I feal that this is more of a specific topic, so I started a new thread in a more proper forum.

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

[This message was edited by kherman on Sun April 20 2003 at 06:37 AM.]

[This message was edited by kherman on Wed April 23 2003 at 01:40 PM.]

[This message was edited by kherman on Wed April 23 2003 at 01:41 PM.]


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

I'm ordeering a custom built tank this week, so I have to finalize me selections for filtering this week too. I need to know how many holes to have puit in the bottom of the tank (for cansiter filters, etc) or if I should use an overflow/sump.

Since it's a dutch style aquarium, I feal that an overflow is out of the question. Overflows take up space and are also noisy. I want an aquarium that is as quiet as possible, so that is a consideration in filter selection. For now, I am planning on using one or two canister filters.

Also, how will I heat the tank if I use canister filters. If I was using a sump, this is an easy question to answer, but that is not the case unless someone convinces me that's the way to go. I really want to keep the heaters out of sight. I can drop them in from the top and let the plants hide everything, but I really want EVERYTHING hidden









Now for canister selection. I know cansiters are made that can have heaters in them. Do these work good enough? Eheim seems the way to go from posts I have read. There is another brand, Ocean something that was recomended that I will coonsider.

Dumb question of the day. I've never used canister filters before, so please don't laugh. Do cansiters normally come with built in pumps? I'd imagine this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model.

This is enough for hte first post. I'm sure this will develop into an interesting conversation









The benefit to everyone is that I am documenting everything on my web page and everyone here will get to see the work in progress. I might (probably will) start a thread in the proper forum for the evolution of my aquarium also









Also, feal free to recomend heating/filtering. Please include specific models if you do. IMHO, more filtering is much better than "just enough". My current tank gets the water cycled 11 times per hour







Remember that this is a 100 gallon aquarium and has yet to be ordered, so pretty much anything can be recomended!

THANK YOU,
Karl Herman
FYI: This is essentially a contiuation of this thread. I feal that this is more of a specific topic, so I started a new thread in a more proper forum.

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

[This message was edited by kherman on Sun April 20 2003 at 06:37 AM.]

[This message was edited by kherman on Wed April 23 2003 at 01:40 PM.]

[This message was edited by kherman on Wed April 23 2003 at 01:41 PM.]


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

Smaller cannister filters come with pumps. Larger ones such as the Ocean Clear don't. Also if you want a modular system that you can add a heater to you might want to look at the Rainbow Lifegard system. Eheim makes a good filter. But they are expensive, you would probably be looking at a Pro II 2128, that filter is going to set you back in the range of $270 mail order. I use Rena XP series filters and love them. They are quiet, reliable, easy to use, and have higher flow rates than the Eheim. You could get a pair of XP3 filters for around $200 mail order and get a couple of nice Pro-Heat Titanium heaters from Robert to go along with it. On a tank the size you are looking at I always recommend two smaller heaters over one large heater.

As far as water flow, the Rena XP3 has a rated value of 350 gph. Actual value is more like 250 gph with a load of media and running though a CO2 reactor. The Eheim has a rated flow of 275 gph. Like you I like a good amount of water movement in the tank. So if you go with a Eheim you are going to have to place a powerhead or two in the tank to get the flow you want.

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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Well, I did some homework. Eheim is off the list.

I am extremely interested in the modular filtering now that you pointed it out by the Rainbow Lifgard system. The Rainbow Lifegaurd system is of great interest to me.

Also in consideration is the Rena XP3 that you pointed out.

So, now for the questions:
1) The Rena XP3 comes with it's own spraybars, etc, which i don't wantto use. I'm having a custom tank made w/bulkheads. Do the Rena filters use standard size I/O connections so plumbing them into the system is a snap?

2) If I were to use dual Rena XP3's, how would I incorporate heating? I suppose I could add a heater module in line with each XP3 and put a 300 watt heater in each. Hiding the heaters is of desire and having it's own module would be a snap. Dropping them into the tank from the top is pretty much something I don't want to do.

3) I realy love the idea of the modular system that could be attained by using the Rainbow Lifegard system. Adding and removing components would be a snap. If comprable systems were made based on the Rainbow System and the Rena XP3s, wich would cost more and by how much (percentage wise).

4) Do either of these systems need to have external valves plumbed in, in order to perform mainenance on the filtration systems? I'll probably plumb in some valves regardless, but I figured I would ask anyways.

Sorry about all the questions. I have till about Friday to figure this out though









Thanks again,
Karl

*EDIT*:
I should add that I am unsure if I am going to do CO2 injection, sterilizers, etc, so a the premium of a modular system may be worth while. Then again, i can probably just plumb those parts into the XP3's if I decide on them. Any thoguhts on this?

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

[This message was edited by kherman on Mon April 21 2003 at 09:39 AM.]


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

The Rena hose is of course metric. But it's basically 5/8" ID. So you can find the fitting needed to make them fit the bulkheads. It may not be easy but it's doable. If you run into problems let me know and I will point you in the right direction.

With Dual Rena's you would have to build a heater module. Or go with something like a like a Fireplug which can be found at http://petsolutions.com/cgi-bin/cgiitmls?m=ThisP&p=1041.200000&l=2 You might even want to put the heater on it's own closed loop if you go with something like the Fireplug.

The Lifegard system is nice, but it tends to be a bit more expensive. Two Rena XP3 filters will run you around $200. A Lifegard system will run about $290, but this includes a double heater module, two double chemical modules, a double mechanical module and a Quiet One pump. You will get more water flow and it's easy to fit a CO2 reactor too. And if you ever wanted a UV you can get a module that will fit right in.

The Rena comes with a quick disconnect/shut off lever that is all you really need. The Lifegard is going to need you too add a valve or two to the plumbing.

Moderator










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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

The Lifegard system looks sweet. I'll start looking up specific parts today and I'll post them here for your thoughts. I'll use your recomended set-up as a jump off point.

I figure I need about 600 watts of heating. The tank is going into the basement, so I'm thinking extra is better than not enough. Any thoughts on this? Someone did point this one out to me though: 
Fireplug Heater
It's a bit expensive, but has plenty of wattage









 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

I am totally decided now. I am definitely going wit the Rainbow Lifegard system.

Some questions:
How come you are recomending *two* double chemical filtration modules? I have no porblem with extra filtration, just curious. Should I plumb these in in parallel or in series?

The heaters. I'm planning on two 300 watt heaters so the double heater module makes sense. Is 600 watts of heating power enough for a 100 gallon tank in a basement?

How should I do the plumbing? I know this is obvious, but should the heaters be before or after the pump? I figure:
1) water from tank
2) to double mechnaical filter
3) to double chemical filters (in series)
4) to pump
5) to double heater module
6) water back to tank.

Could you recomend heaters to use. Are there any brands that are more accurate than others?

Thanks,
Karl

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

[This message was edited by kherman on Wed April 23 2003 at 01:42 PM.]


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Almost forgot.

Is the Quiet One pump appropriate. I figure I'll be getting the full output from this pump of 900+ gph.

I read that the double modules require 300-900 gph

Should I look for a pump that is closer to 900 gph or am I just worrying about nothing? The pump ratings are probably under no load conditions, so I am probably just paranoid.

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

The heater modules are based on length. If you are going to run two heaters you will need two modules. And you will need to get them long enough to hold the heaters you are going to use. As for what kinds of heaters to use? I would get the Titanium like Robert sells.

As for the two chemical units? I'm a big fan of the more media the better school of thought. You may or may not agree with that.

As I recall the pump is goes before any modules. It's pushing water though them, not pulling it. The Quiet One pump is the recommended pump so I don't think you would have a problem with it.

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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

More media is always a good thing.
Heater moduels should go at the end. The key is filtration first. 
Mechanical, biological, chemical, then heaters or UV.

Clean the water first so that the dirt and grim don't muck up the modules.

On wattage .... keep your lights(330w PC) in mind. They put off hundreds of watts in heat. I have 500w(2x250 titatniums) on my 100g and it is complete overkill. I've unplugged one completely and the other only comes on during large dilutions. What will the ambient temperature be in the room? In my 68-72F room, I need a chiller more than I need a heater. I use fans to keep the water from going 84F+. Direct fans when the room is 70F keep the water at 78F.

Otherwise everything sounds great.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

James,

Is what Rex said about hte pump being first correct? Should I just contact the manufacturer?

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

You'll need to call, although you'll hav eto search for the number. THey don't seem to have a functional web site.

There are reasons to push and reasons to pull and reasons to do both. It depends on the dynamics of the situation.
I think pushing usually wins out. The pumps can take the small debris, you'll just need pre-filters in the intakes.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Well, I think I'm decided on the parts anyways. I think I'll install things in the following manner:

water from tank
- to the mechanical filter
- to the pump
- to the chemical filters (2)
- to the heaters
and back to the tank.

I was talking to a friend about what I was doing and he mentioned something. What about the biological filtration?
Is one even needed(the chemical modules being enough)? I was considering the FB300 Fluidized Bed Filter . Would I just install this between the pump and the chemical filtration units?

CO2. If I were to use a bottle, how do I add it to the system? Does it just attach inline with everything else? I'm a newbie to CO2, so please don't laugh









 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

Do a DIY reactor at the end jut before it goes back into the tank. The biological filtration willoccur in the chemical modules depending on what you have in them. You wouldn't actually have chemical addatives in them, you would most likely have a biolofical media like eheim's Ehfisubstrat Pro.
The fluidozed filter would be an idea, but I would use it instead of one of the chemical units. I myself have never used one. All I've seen in the manufacturer's notes.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

OK, I'll just be careful when picking what goes into the chemical units.

I've seen alot on DIY reactors. I can hunt a guide down on my own. Any recomended links you could give? I'm off to the DIY forum for now









Thanks

 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

The diagram I always see with the Lifegard system shows the pump first. Since you will be using some type of strainer on the intake you are not going to clog the pump. I would place your biological media in one of the chemical units, or even both, but biological filtration in a planted tank is not a critical as it is in a fish only tank. If you hit the DIY section you will find lots of info on reactors. Just make sure you run the water in the top and out the bottom.

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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

OK,
I finally found the site for Rainbow;
http://www.pentairaquatics.com/

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

From the literature for their pumps;


> quote:
> 
> NEVER restrict the suction side of the pump.


but then two pages later they have a graphic showing a wet/dry in front of the pump.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

GOOD FIND!

Google always gave me www.rainbow-lifegard.com which is a dead link. It's nice to actually have the manufacturers web site.

I'll be there looking for info on proper installation of hte pieces.

Thanks,
Karl


> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by JamesHoftiezer:
> OK,
> ...


 MY Web Page - go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

I don't think a wet/dry would restrict the pump as it is basically pumping from a supply of water in the wet/dry.

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