# Hell of an Algae Problem



## BJRuttenberg (Sep 25, 2005)

Okay, here is a doozie for all you out there. I am new to fish tanks ( a little over a year) and even newer to planted tanks (a little over a month). My setup is such: One 29 gallon tank, a Rena Xp2 canister filter, 10 lb. CO2 with solenoid valve and a Dupla co2 diffuser (approximately 1.5 bubbles a sec). Substrate is eco complete with a 1 inch top layer of intert gravel. I dose daily with .5 ml of Flourish and .5 ml of Flourish Excel. I also run a 135w Coralife PC with 6700k bulbs. Temp is ~ 28 C. Light is on for 14 hrs from 8 am to 10 pm daily (Co2 synched w/ light). I water change infrequently (maybe every 1.5 - 2 weeks.) about 33%. It is a mix of 7/8 gal RO with 3/2 gal treated tap. Ph 6.5-7.5 and GH 4-5. Do not know any other specs.

I have planted: Rotala Indica, Rotala Wallichii, Glossostigma, Riccia fluitans, Various Vallisneria (kinda a grab bag) most seems Vallisneria spiralis, some kind of lotus and a bunch of Sagittaria subulata.

All plants are growing like mad, the problem is there is massive algal growth too. It wouldnt be such a problem but it is overtaking my plants and in some regards becomming parasitic. I've got green thread algae, green powder-like algae on the glass and some rust colored (reddish-brown) algae like stuff on the glass too (both powder like). I have also noticed a small emergence of what seems like black hair algae on some of the plants.

1. I dont know what any of these are or how to rid myself of them. I have 3 SAEs, 1 Florida Flag Fish and 1 Otocinclus...will any do the trick.

2. I assume it is one of these algaes but there is some pseudo-hairy (like the green thread algae) and black and dark green spots that are beginning to form on some of my older plants leaves (like the older growth Vallisneria) - so maybe its all 3

3. Because of this I'm having to prune off some of the oldest and fullest leaves on a lot of my plants.

What am I doing wrong, what are possible solutions, what *books *can I read, are there any test kits I'm missing, etc. I figured a good start was to subscribe to AGA for the long term but I'm afraid if I dont get this in check I may not have an aquatic garden by the time I get the first issue. Please give me some preliminary advice!!!!


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## Erirku (Oct 5, 2004)

I see only one problem, and that is the level of your Co2 concentration in your tank! You are also very unclear on your pH:6.5-7.5??? Please get an accurate reading, with a KH test also. Then you can go to Chuck Gadd's calculator and really figure out how much Co2 in that tank! Why are you only dosing alittle bit of flourish, you need more than 5mls of that. Also, I don't think you need to use excel,because you already have pressurized Co2 in your tank. I think you need to make a investment in Greg Watson's dry ferts: N, P or K. Maybe this will solve the algae problem, either than that, good luck.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

Lighting is usually the most critical factor in algae control. You have what, about 4.5 wpg on for 14 hours a day. That in IMO is overkill in your situation. I would reduce your lighting period to about 10 hrs or if you have two separate switches only use both bulbs for about 5 hours in the middle of the day. Also as Erirku said, get a hold of your co2 levels by measuring ph and kh and using the online calculator. With that kind of light anyway your co2 levels should probably be in the 30's.


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## dennis (Mar 1, 2004)

CO2 and nutrients, adding enough of both will solve your problems. With high light tanks you have to dose all the macro and micro nutrients and have CO2 llevels at ~30ppm. No exceptions.

Do a sarch for the Estimative Index by Tom Barr. You can find out a gazillion things about it here and you can also find info about it at his site, www.barreport.com


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

With a high light, CO2 injected tank, 0.5ml of flourish is not going to handle the plants needs. When the plants don't get what they need, growth slows. This is when the algae appears. The plants may not have shown any decrease in growth yet, but I imagine they soon will. 

You need to look into adding some nitrates (NO3) and phosphates (PO4) to your tank. The link to Greg Watson's site is a good one for the fertilizers or you could go with Seachem's Nitrogen, Phosphorous,and Potassium. 

You should also read through some of the fertilization forums. There is a lot of information in there. Try doing a search on EI or the Estimative Index also. That will give you a good explanation of fertilizers and how to add them. Tom even gives some recommendations for a 20g tank. You would just need to increase the dosing by about half for your 29g tank. 

To identify your algae, take a look at the AlgaeFinder in the menu bar above. It should describe the algae you are having. The brown dust stuff (Diatom algae) should go away fairly fast and is common to new tanks.


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## DelawareJim (Nov 15, 2005)

The Barr Report is at another location. Type an extra "R" in the address or use the hot link from the name in this post.

Cheers.
Jim


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## SCMurphy (Jan 28, 2004)

BJ did you get all that? They covered everything I think. Let me distill it for you.

First. Cut back on the light, 8 to 10 hours is the most the plants need, 12 max if you just can't stand it. Get a timer if you don't have one.

Second. Remove as much algae as you can, pruning and scraping, *then* do your semi-weekly water change, at least 50 percent this time.

Third. Relax, its a hobby and a new tank is going to be wacky for a bit when you get started. People don't always understand that a planted tank is a big organism, not a box of water with plants inside, it has to settle into itself.

Fourth. (After your water change) Your pH is swinging a lot there, add a little KH to your water (baking soda) and either switch to 24/7 CO2 or put the CO2 on it's own timer starting up an hour or two ahead of the lights and cutting off an hour before lights out. Also make sure you are adding enough CO2, use the links above and find the CO2 chart and make sure you have 30 ppm in your tank.

Follow the dosing advice the others have given you and give it a couple weeks to settle down. My tanks sometimes look their best when I go away for a couple weeks and let them breath.


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## BJRuttenberg (Sep 25, 2005)

Guys, I really appreciate all the help you have given me. It's people like you that make this hobby a fun learning experience for beginners like myself rather than a hellish money sink.


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## DelawareJim (Nov 15, 2005)

Oh you poor mistaken boy. It's still a hellish money sink. Just ask my wife. After you get the hang of things, you'll want to experiment with more complicated plants, and more complex systems, and more tanks, and bigger tanks, and more, and more, and more! But that just adds to the fun.

Cheers.
Jim


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## Zapins (Jul 28, 2004)

BJRuttenberg said:


> I've got green thread algae, green powder-like algae on the glass and some rust colored (reddish-brown) algae like stuff on the glass too (both powder like). I have also noticed a small emergence of what seems like black hair algae on some of the plants.


i agree with what the others have said in terms of dosing and co2/other things, though i have found with these types of algae there are usually specific causes IF all the other nutrients are stable and good.

Thread and Green powder = too little po4, they will die w/ appropriate levels
reddish-brown = dirty tank or too little light or just a new tank syndrome
black hair algae = co2 problems, just raise the co2 to appropriate levels and it will die

hope this general guide helps, understand this is not a comprehensive list of problem-solution, you will need to buy test kits and check the parameters as the cause for algae could be other things.


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