# Help with cyano and plant growth after switching to PPS Pro



## adeebm (Oct 17, 2010)

Intro:
I have a 46 gallon tank. Moderately planted, some swords, java moss, dwarf sag, etc. Lighting is 2x39W T5HO. I have CO2 injection with a glass diffuser, running with an SMS controller. Medium bioload: 1 angel, 2 rams, bunch of tetras. I do 50% weekly water changes. I've been using EI dosing for a while(which ended up being no dosing a lot of the time, as I forget easily) and had little problems with algae, but little plant growth. I recently switched to PPS Pro using two aqualifters. Since then, I've been having some problems including moderate cyano(mostly over the java moss and sag). Also, my cabomba is growing fast at the top, but melting from the bottom. I can't keep it rooted, so now it's floating and covered in cyano. I forgot my photoperiod, but will check and post when I get home. Some params:
pH - 8.4 natural, 7.4 with CO2
NH4 - 0ppm
I checked these two just before a WC with salifert tests:
NO3 - 0ppm
PO4 - .5ppm

So what's the cause of my algae and plant problems, and what can I do to fix it?

--Adeeb


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

You need more nitrate. No nitrate plus some phosphate is creating optimal conditions for cyano bacteria. Physical cleaning of the substrate and turning your substrate to aerate the soil can help. Try to suck up as much of the slime as possible during water changes. Make sure you have good oxygen levels too (rippling at surface)

As for the caboba. This can happen with many stemmed plants. If conditions of nutrition are not optimal then the plant has a mechanism to break off and move to greener pastures. I would ensure you have appropriate doings of all required nutrients (macro, micro and CO2). If there are still issues it is probably an issue with proper flow. If the caboba is sitting in a dead spot there is little nutrient exchange and plants will suffer.

Hope it helps. Cyano bacteria can be hard to deal with and many people revert to chemicals but the underlying issues should be fixed to rid of it for good. It took me a few weeks to get it under control when I set up a new tank recently. Good luck!


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## adeebm (Oct 17, 2010)

Should I bump up nitrate levels in my fert mix then? I suppose I can manually dose extra and see if it makes a difference first. There's actually no cyano on the substrate, just on some plants in a way that makes it impossible to vacuum. I figured nitrates were low, but isn't PPS Pro only supposed to add only as much nitrate as is used in a day?

--Adeeb


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## Spyke (Aug 18, 2012)

Erythromycin.... Kills it dead! With doing little to no harm to your aquarium. Just kills a little bacteria.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Octavusprime (Sep 18, 2011)

Spyke said:


> Erythromycin.... Kills it dead! With doing little to no harm to your aquarium. Just kills a little bacteria.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes but if you don't fix the underlying issue it will most likely come back.

There is no magic fertilizer that will address the needs of all tanks. You
Must adjust for plant mass, stocking level and light intensity. If you have nitrate readings of zero I would bump up your nitrogen to at least the 5ppm level.


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## adeebm (Oct 17, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. I nuked 'em with erithromycin, changed the bulbs, and went back to EI dosing. Everything looks good so far.

--Adeeb


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