# Restructuring the substrate



## John Schultz (Jun 21, 2007)

I am working with my second planted aquarium, set up about 8 months ago after reading DL Walstad's Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. I became very intrigued with the idea of using a soil substrate and decided to ignore the advice of the local aquarium shop people and use ONLY soil (ADA Soil). My thinking was that putting something between the soil and the water, like sand or gravel, would obstruct the biological process of breaking down fish food, mulm, and rotting leaves into ammonia and other necessary nutrients. 8 months later I am re-evaluating my decision. One problem is that the soil surface is constantly becoming covered by a coating (biofilm?) of BGA, which I believe is making it difficult to rid the tank of BGA. It is hard to syphon soil because it gets sucked up. Another problem is that the soil is light and plants like Hydrocotyle or Blyxa Japonica have a heard time staying rooted. Finally, I cannot get any bottom cover to grow in it, probably because the BGA kills it off. 

The question is, can I restructure the substrate without taking out the plants? Is it possible to put a sand or gravel layer over the soil at this stage? I am really tempted to try because I do not want go through a complete traumatic rebuilding of the tank. Any advice?


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Are you talking about ADA Aqua Soil? That isn't really dirt. Most people believe that if you can afford it, ADA Aqua Soil is the best substrate you can get. I don't think your soil is causing your BGA, so changing it wouldn't help your problem. 

You might try reading the threads about algae issues. Most everything I have read comes down to not enough CO2, too much light, not enough water changes. Do you have 150 watts? - that would be 5 watts per gallon. That is A LOT of light. Maybe that is your entire issue.


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## John Schultz (Jun 21, 2007)

Thanks Tex Gal
I am not talking about changing the substrate (ADA Aqua-soil), just putting a layer of something on top of it. I have been working on the BGA for some time: blackout, frequent water changes. I have increased nitrates from zero to 10ppm (maybe even higher). I just started EI fertilizing a week ago. But I think getting the green stuff off the bottom might be important and the light aqua soil is getting sucked into the syphon and it is not heavy enough to fall out. My thinking is that sand or gravel will keep the BGA from taking nutrients from the Aqua soil and permit me to clean up the BGA better.
Thanks,
John


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## John Schultz (Jun 21, 2007)

Dear Tex Gal,
Concerning the 150w, I have cut the photo-period down to 8 from 9.5 hrs and raised the light a few inches above the tank to cut the intensity. I will try raising it even some more to see if that helps--but still want to cover the soil.
Thanks, John


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## Homer_Simpson (Apr 2, 2007)

You definitely need to look at some of the root causes that may be contributing to your BGA problem and I believe that TG is right on the money. Your light is feeding the BGA, so I would cut the photoperiod back to 7.5 hours with a 2 hour siesta period. You may also want to try a 3 day blackout to kill any existing BGA. Just cover the tank with dark cut up garbage bags. Blackouts always entail risk as some of your plants may not take kindly to the blackout and may die off.

With respect to covering the soil, there are two schools of thought on this one. Some say that if you cover something like soil with too fine a gravel and it cannot breathe, you will set up issues that will contribute to plant root compaction and rot and hydrogen sulfide production, which would eventually cause all your plants to die and force you to tear the tank down. Others say, that a really fine gravel is good as it locks in nutrients, makes them readily available to the plant roots, and keeps them from leeching into the water column and causing problems. What those problems are I have no idea as it has been proven time and time again that excess nutrients do not necessarily cause algae. However, IME, too high phosphates and nitrates did fuel the growth of BGA. 

Personally, I would dose with Erythromycin antibiotic as per instructions and follow up with recommended water changes. This will totally nuke the BGA. Once the BGA is wiped out, I would cover the soil with a 1-3 mm gravel or traction sand; basically something that will let the soil breathe and that is not too fine.

P.S. Tex Gal, although I cannot confirm or deny, it is said that ADA Aquasoil is basically dirt. Allegedly ADA is actually soil that was harvested from the paddy fields of Japan. ADA then processed it to make it suitable for aquarium usage.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

To answer what you asked, yes, you can add an inert substrate on top of the ADA aquasoil, providing you don't add a deep layer, which might be hard on the existing plants. A quarter inch of coarse sand would probably work.

As others said, I don't think this will solve a problem, but you could do it. The heavier layer would soon migrate down beneath the lighter aquasoil, and you would be back to having aquasoil at the surface.


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## John Schultz (Jun 21, 2007)

I am working on the root causes of the BGA. I cut the light to 7.5 hrs, raised the height another 5cm, and will continue water changes and cleaning. The nitrate level is up to 10-15ppm and I will continue EI dosing. 

Thanks for the input on covering the soil. Your insight, along with Hoppy's, is leading me to reconsider the value of covering the soil. If I can lick the BGA problem and get something to grow on the bottom, I will not need to cover the soil anyway. Thanks.


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

One of the reasons I use sand is to make cleaning the bottom easier (less kick up) 
and to hold plants down as water slogged potting soil tends to not hold free
planted roots well but holds fish waste very well. That and I like the look better.

I've read Walstad's book and I'm of the opinion that general hobbyists should only
follow parts of it because without expert knowledge it's to easy to crash the 
eco-system (hence the need of the El Natural forum).

I'm a hybrid-NPT person myself I believe in the tried and true 20% water change
weekly or twice a week depending on bio-load and filtration. A backup cheap
canister filter ($20 to $30 type) can't hurt after all - fan-boys be damned.

But after all of that I recommend Walstad's book as required reading for any new
aquarium hobbyist but with the above caveats.

- Brad


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## John Schultz (Jun 21, 2007)

Brad, 
The low maintenance tank might really be possible, but then who would find aquascaping such an interesting pursuit? I enjoy challenges, but I would like to put BGA behind me, and move on to learning more about beautiful and challenging plants and fish. Soon as BGA gives up (optimistic?) I will try a quarter-inch cover layer of some sand-like material, . . .and wait for it to migrate into the lighter stuff.

I would like to try the antibiotic route, but my local shop doesn't have it. Are there any APC people in Japan that know where I can get hold of Erythromycin?


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

John, I was trying to find the thread I read last night about BGA. Here it is:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/45473-blue-green-algae.html

I think you will find it quite interesting. After wading through all the opinions I think you'll find that Erythromycin is the way to go. Even DWalstad says so.... El Natural. Have your tried online for it. I think I got mine from Petsmart.com.....


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