# DIY Hood plans



## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Gonna be making a new hood for my 55 gal since I got my AHsupply recently (2x 55w). I have a design in mind and need help with improvements and size of the boards.









Basically, the support bars will rest on the trim of the tank attached to the side boards. The side board extends a bit over the support bars, and then theres the top part on top  And theres the hinge on top that'll open the front cover and part of the top for easy access. (I did accidentally put in a back board, but the back will be open.
I need suggestions on any improvements, suggestion for width of boards(don't know how strong I would need them), also where to hook in my lights/make the hinge. I'm planning to upgrade with another 2x 55 in the distant future, so I might want to take that into consideration

Also, what are the finishes/paints everyone uses on their hoods? I want to make this black to match the trim and future stand.
Thanks!


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

A four foot long hood can get very heavy when you use thicker wood than necessary. The weight is primarily a problem when you want to remove it for access when doing really extensive maintenance to the aquascape. So, I suggest that the end boards be 1/2" thick, so they can be main structural parts. Rather than leave the back completely open, use a narrow board across the back, but 1/2" thick also, as another main structural board - those which hold the thing together. Leave a big gap at the bottom of the back for hose access. Then, just use a similar 1/2" board across the front, but with the gap at the top instead of the bottom. That gives you a 1/2" thick frame. Now use thinner plywood for the top, like 1/4" thick, perhaps with a reinforcing bar, front to back in the middle to avoid it sagging. Put a reinforcing bar along the length of the top where you will cut it for the hinge line - that gives enough thickness to hold the hinge screws and stiffen the !/4" plywood at the cut line. The front probably should be 1/2" thick also since it gets a lot of wear and tear with opening and closing it. (This is all how I imagine I would try to build it. But, I did build my hood in a similar, but different way.) Try to get the opening when you lift up the lid to be as big as is practical, for good access for pruning. But, try to keep the lights in the fixed part of the top, so you don't have a light shining in your face when you try to work on the tank with the lights on, and because constantly bending electrical wire can lead to electrical failures, usually of the big flash type.

If you are going to paint it, there are a few DIY hood writeups here where people used auto body filler to smooth the surface before painting - it worked beautifully, but I have never tried it.


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Yeah, forgot that I should have a back for more support D: (why I posted here )
And the board in the front is supposed to be the actual front piece, or just a small one for the frame? If it was just the frame, could I leave a little space open in the front part and put a piece of wood for the front cover to make it not stick out? Oh, if the front part would be part of the frame, would it mean I would have to cut it too since it would lift up?
Ah, I see, I was thinking of making my hood lift up like this, not the whole thing like yours(I just saw it, it's so nice. wish I had better craftsmanship D
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c323/jonshouseofphoto/2007-04-04-canopy-open.jpg
This is where I got my design. Would this be better since I am resting it on the outerframe, not on the inside like yours?

And for the support bars on the top, would that mean I need 2 bars, one going from front to back and one along the hinge cut line right? So a cross? Wouldn't that interfere with my lighting(the one going front to back)?

Thanks for the help!

Wow, someone used a layer of filler to smooth it, layered it 3 times with primer/sealer, sanded, and add 3 layers of paint and 2 layers of clear later(?) as a finish. That's a lot of layers D:


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

That photo looks like a very good design. It looks like the fixed top and the two end boards are the rigid frame, so no board across the back is even needed. It is nice and simple too. My "design" was a mental construction, so I would go with the photo - a proven design. The support bars under the top skin would brace the main structure, provide thicker wood where the hinges screw on, and thicker wood where the lights attach. You probably don't need the piece going front to back - a 55 gallon isn't big enough front to back to need the extra bracing there. A lot of how you make one of these can be worked out as you go along - add or delete parts as you see they are needed or not needed.

A mistake I made with two hoods I made was to try to fit the hoods too well over the top of the tank. They fit so snugly I had a very hard time removing them once I installed them. I could actually pick up a 29 gallon tank by the hood when I installed it! Apparently the wood slightly shrunk after it was on the tank. I would leave at least a sixteenth of an inch of clearance all around.


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

"The support bars under the top skin would brace the main structure, provide thicker wood where the hinges screw on, and thicker wood where the lights attach."
Sort of confused on what you mean by that. O_O Just the one piece that goes along the cut line of the hinge and where else for the light?
And I think I might add a piece on the back just for more stability. I see that you used only glue on your hood, would that be ok for a bigger hood like mine?
Hopefully I do this correctly and it doesn't stick to my 55 D: Don't think I can lift that up too well, lol.
Thanks for the help! I'll post pics after I finish(if it turns out well )


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

The AH Supply reflectors are held up with a couple of screws which also attach the fluorescent bulb bracket - the lights are held up by the bracket - so those screws have to have enough wood thickness where they are located to be able to hold the screw. When you get it assembled, if you find there is only 1/4 inch plywood to screw into, just glue a strip of wood inside down where the centerline of the reflector will be. Yellow "carpenters glue" or Titebond glue, which is the same thing, are extremely strong when dry. So, about all that nails or screws do in a joint glued with that stuff is hold the wood pieces together until the glue dries. And, it only takes an hour for the glue to reach about half of its full strength, which is plenty for continuing to work on it. 

I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures!


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

So would my current plans except throw in 2 strips of wood, one for the lights and 1 for the cut line work? Maybe just make the inside of the hood 48 1/2 in for shrink reasons. And I'll look out for the carpenters glue. I'm sure my dad has some in the garage I could use, but might need more in case. I'm going to figure out the sizes of the woods I need now so I can stop by a hardware store either today for tomorrow.

And hehe, probably not since the hood will look so bad, but I guess I should since you've helped me soo much these past few days.

Oh, forgot to ask. What type of wood do you suggest? Does any work out fine? Thanks.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Plywood has wood grain running at right angles in the plys, so the shrinkage is far less than with solid wood. MDF is the easiest "wood" to paint, but isn't as strong as plywood. And, it is hard to find solid wood that is not standard 3/4 inch thick - you can't normally find 1/2" thick solid wood. All of that makes me use plywood for hoods unless I want the thicker wood, or want to stain and clear finish the wood. Of all of the plywoods, the best is the solid birch plywood, available at Woodcraft stores, for example, but not at Home Depot. Next best is birch or oak veneered plywood, which Home Depot has.

I have used all of those wood products and all of them will work, so it is largely personal preference and how you intend to finish the wood surface.


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Ahhhh... Went to home depot yesterday, was a bit confusing, lol. They had a lot of wood up to 48" but I need another 1/2 in and anything longer was 12 in wide, and I need 13... And things that fit what I needed were 1in thick. The only option I had was to buy a $50 piece of 4x8 or something, but yeah... I think I might fit this hood to the interior railing of the frame. Next weekend though, 3 day weekend!

Is there a way for me to efficiently mount these lights on my current hood temporarily till I finish my DIY hood? I have one of these, except I can remove the strip light
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&pc=1&N=0&Nty=1


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Eh, is there a way I can also install my current strip light? Thinking about it, I might use the plans ahsupply gave me and just make it sit in the inner lip. Also just let my current strip light sit in front to give it a boost of light. 
The instruction says though that I should put it on glass, but I don't have any on top of it currently. Which glass is it talking about? Would I have to visit a glass place and get one cut for me?
Thanks.


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## Muirner (Jan 9, 2007)

Check out the link in my signature. I built a custom hood with a GFI, 2 shop lights, night lights, 1 power cord comming out of the hood. It's a little tall but it can be solved by just making it smaller. I have even made notes where i messed up making mine.

Any questions please ask, i'd love to help


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Yeah, I've seen the hood, but how does it rest on the frame? Problem I'm having is finding wood that'll fit that length for a good price -_-
Also fitting my current power strip, but I guess I would have to take that apart?


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Alright, I just made a simple hood to hold the lighting and just let the front of my tank stay open. If I do get another kit from ahsupply(which I'm doubting). I'll probably build a full hood. I actually built it like this so I could also just put my strip light in the front, but it doesn't fit!
My HOB filter is blocking it a bit, so it doesn't go all the way back x_x

Alrighty, it looks alright, nothing spectacular and it is a bit wide so leaves tight arm space. I did forget to take the cover of the reflectors off at first and it made noises, which scared me until i figured it out, lol.

So here it is:
Inside. Hehe, some white paint got stuck on the bottom, was too lazy since everything was already dry, lol.








Top








Bright!








Yay! Bright for my rotala marcanda and dying colorta(i think on the left)I sorta replanted the tank after this shot, so rotala marcanda was more spaced out, swords and moss were removed. Rotala Indica on the right side was replanted/spaced out









And I will plan to use the design I had in the OP if I ever get a 75 or bigger tank and probably retro ahsupply kit into it. Or I might just go with a open top one with a long one with legs(high unlikely)


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## jamesbugman (Nov 1, 2005)

Nice and simple, I like it.
Did you end up building that with 1x6"? If so do you have a wider shot with the whole tank and part of the stand?
I really like the low profile hoods and was thinking of doing something very similar, just want to see the overall effect before I commit myself to another project I don't have time for.


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

1 foot wide by 6 in tall? It's actually 3 1/2" tall, 6 1/2" wide(could be 5 1/2) by 48 in long(a little bit longer)
It's a very simple lighting fixture that just holds the light(and fish food on top ), and the stand was made 2 yrs ago by my dad(it's white and open xD)
I'll try take a pic tonight.


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## jamesbugman (Nov 1, 2005)

LOL. I actually meant did you end up using 1"x6" (3/4x5 1/2) lumber. But you answered my question.
Are you noticing any extra heat with the light so close to the top of the tank?


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## gotcheaprice (Sep 4, 2007)

Lol, ic, sorry I didn't reply for so long D: And no really, the temp stays about 80 pretty consistently, even without a heater, so I'm good with it. Not sure how it would be where temps go up to 100 since Hawaii is pretty consistent(I haven't been through a summer with this tank yet).
I do feel the heat from above though, but it doesn't bother me. I am sorta sad that the lower leaves of my marcanda is dying off sorta though... I might need to space it out more or something.


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## Amazon_Replica (Nov 24, 2007)

I made my hood/canopy out of 1x4's, 1x6's and 3/4" plywood. i have 4- 4' fl strips and 2- 3' fl strips.
i drew a sketch basically showing it the way i did it.

very cheap, 1x4's and 6's are pine, you can buy a 1x4x10 at home depot for $2.00 if that.
they will cut the plywood for you, so all you need is a hand saw to cut the 1x's. i used wood screws and liquid nails to hold it together, I did pre-drill pilot holes. i used a treasure chest hinge, roughly 24" long. And 2 handles in the front to help open it up when i need to. I use a piece of wood to prop it open when i prune/clean/water change. After it is constructed, i installed sheet metal and spray painted it high gloss chrome. Works well for me.

quick list, all bought at home depot-
3-1x4x8
3-1x6x8
1 sheet 3/4" plywood cut to exact side of tank top
1 hinge
2 handles
2 sheets of #30 sheet metal
1-2 cans spray paint
1 tube liquid nails
1 box 1" wood screws
1 piece approx 30"x30" window screen (cut it up)
all electric is run through 1 power cord going to my strip.


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