# Inline equipment question.



## Tobias (Apr 8, 2007)

I have had tanks before but I am just getting interested in Aquascaping. Right now I have my sights set on a 75 gallon tank with a Rena Filstar XP3 filter. I wanted to use inline UV and an inline heater but I was wondering if this would cause to much backup and pressure on the filter having a UV on the intake and a heater on the return? Any thoughts and tips would be much appreciated.  One other quick question. I was thinking of maybe going with the XP4 even though I know it is over kill but I thought if it makes for healthier fish and plants it would be worth it.


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

having an inline heater shouldn't pose any problems with the filter, but the UV sterilizer may not obtain enough flow to operate properly. the xp3/4 are rated for 350/450 gph, but that's with the filters empty. once their filled with media, that flow rate is reduced. an xp3 would be fine for your 75 gallon, but you wouldn't get the optimum performance from your UV sterilizer.


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## Tobias (Apr 8, 2007)

Thank you for the information.  What would you recommend with the UV filter a separate pump system of just a more powerful canister filter?

Thanks again for your help.


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## dapellegrini (Jan 18, 2007)

I use 2 XP3's on my 72-gallon. I have a CO2 Reactor and Inline Heater plumbed into the first one, which reduces the flow by almost half. The second I use to bring the flow back up and for redundancy.


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## Mud Pie Mama (Jul 30, 2006)

For the price of one XP4 (DrF&S: $199.99) @450gph; I'd rather buy two XP2s - ($77.99 x 2 = $155.99 8)) and you'd end up moving 600gph (two x 300gph). Put different equipment on each one. Plus you'd have a built-in saftey if one would fail.

I think three or four baskets for media (XP3 or XP4) is overkill on heavily planted tanks. You don't want or need to run carbon. There's almost no need for biological filtration - good sponge media will perform the same function as bio-balls and what-nots anyway.

One further point, though, many planted tank hobbiest dispute running a UV regularly. Very contested issue, some say it can cause problems with iron fertilization. I have one but it's mobile and run with its own tiny water pump. I keep it in storage and can drop it onto any tank should the need arise (ie., if I've triggered a GW bloom by too much rearranging in the tank, or disease issue.) However, knowing your actual flow rate is important on a UV - otherwise known as dwell time. Often slower is necessary depending on what you're wanting to zap. Algae, parasites or bacteria.

PS. Don't locate a UV on the intake line. You want to minimize buildup of dirt and grunge on the quartz sleeve. Actually I don't think it's good to locate any item on the intake. 
&
Petsmart has a great discount on the XP filters right now: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ipment/38838-guys-xp3-and-xp4-filters-on.html


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## Tobias (Apr 8, 2007)

Thanks for information everyone I appreciate it.


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## Tonka (Mar 20, 2004)

If your flow is too high, it can be easily throttled back. If you have the oppossite problem, you can only reduce media, raise the cannister, reduce bends in tubing, and take out downstream equipment. Do yourself a favor and buy the biggest filter that makes sense. 600gph with a UVS, heater, and maybe a CO2 reactor is not unreasonable for a 75. Your challenge will be to divide the outflow so you have good circulation without aggitating the plants or disturbing the surface of the water too much.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

Tobias,

This really comes down to your tank setup. If your not going to overload the tank with meaty fish then you'll be fine. Most seasoned planted tank folk know that and have a small fish load. That being said, most of your filtration will be biological and not mechnical. Reduced flow for biological filtration and media contact is much more important than flow rate. The longer contact time the biological media has with waste the more efficient biological filtration is. I have successfully run my 72g with an ecco 2236 that has a max gph of 159 for about 2 years. I also have an inline UV that I run 24/7 on the outflow. My actual gph is in the neighborhood of 70 and it's a 72g tank and have found no downside to doing so. Remember most planted tank people change 30 to 50% of their water weekly, so your always refreshing and removing larger waste during the change. 

I'm not sure with Freydo meant but not having enough flow for the UV, unless I'm misunderstanding it's the opposite. You need reduced flow as someone said "dwell time" to sap algae and even less flow to sap parasites

I really don't get the flow thing in a planted tank. How much flow do you need to move dissolved fertilizer through the WC a couple of feet.


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## Tonka (Mar 20, 2004)

HOC's points are well taken. However, I would also maintain that there must be enough flow to prevent stagnant areas in your tank which are otherwise invitations for BGA. Yes, if you are changing 50% of your water every week, this is certainly much less of an issue.

Like everything in this hobby, flow is also a question of balance. My point is only that when buying equipment it is important to maintain flexibility, to be able to make adjustments over a range of any parameter. Also, "dwell time" might be relevant with a UVS, but not for biological filtration since nutrients (what we otherwise call waste) diffuse into the biological media where decomposition takes place.


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

Just to be clear I think it's hard to overfilter a tank because if you go to a bigger filter your probably increase the mass of biomedia as well, but I do believe if you took the same filter and one had a flow of 200gph and the other had a flow of 150gph I do believe you would get better biological filtration out of the 150gph because the contact time is better and it's converting the waste more efficiently. If you look at the Eheim filter line, almost all have less flow than their competition for the same size tank recommendation. Eheim claims they can have reduced flow because of the superior contact time and pass-through of the biomedia. Eheim's have always been big on bio filtration one of the reasons they are so popular in the planted aquaria hobby. 

I agree with Tonka's point that flexibility is a good thing, based on changes to your tank, etc. With that being said based on Tobias question I do think he will have no problem with the xp3 and an inline UV unless he abuses all the golden rules of planted aquaria.


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

right now at petsmart online, you can get the Xp3's for $79.99 using code XP3/XP4 (I think that is the code, there is another thread in this forum with the info) with free shipping. Or you get $30 off the Xp4 or $15 off the XP2 or XP1

That way you can run two XP3's for the price of two XP2's

Also, go online and find the filter and add two to your cart and apply the promo code sho that is shows the price of $79.99 each. Then print it out and go over to your PetSmart, call ahead to make sure they have them in stock, or go to a different one.

Simply get the filters and take them to the cashier and show them the print out and they will match their online price.

This will only work at PetSmart and only with their Website, but it does work and then you don't have to wait for shipping.


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## Tobias (Apr 8, 2007)

Thanks for the heads up on the petsmart deal. 

HouseofCards what are the golden rules? I might have already read them because I have been trying to digest as much material on the subject as I can before I even purchase the tank but I am always willing to learn or even get another view on the same material.


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

I also have to ask why you seem set on the UV steralilzer.
I really don't think you will need one if you are having a moderatly to heavily planted tank with small fish load.
You can use them to clear green algae blooms (diatom filters are probably better and you can keep a HOT magnum HOF {hang on the front} canister around with some Diatom powder for much less then buying a UV steralizer and then you can run it when you want it.

Running the UV steralizer can remove good things from the WC also. At least I have been told, I have never used one. I had wanted one when I was experiencing new tank syndrome on my first planted tank and was talked out of it, told that it would settle down in time and now I am glad I saved the money.

I don't think that they will really hurt the tank, but I don't really think you need one. I do know a few who run them and have no complaints, but I know a whole bunch who don't run them and also have no complaints, but they have fatter pockets.


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

houseofcards said:


> I'm not sure with Freydo meant but not having enough flow for the UV, unless I'm misunderstanding it's the opposite. You need reduced flow as someone said "dwell time" to sap algae and even less flow to sap parasites


houseofcards... i don't disagree.

i was going with information i had read regarding the efficiency of UV sterilizers, and a minimum flow rate is required to effective at killing parasites, bacteria, and algae. if you have a 100 gallon tank, you would probably need a minimum 18W UV sterilizer, and provide around 300 gph to effectively kill off bacteria and algae. but you would need a maximum flow rate of 100 gph needed to kill off parasites. definitely a lot less than what an XP3 would provide, even filled with filter media. this works in with the "dwell time" or UV exposure that was mentioned.

i don't disagree with any of the other opinions, i'm more than welcome to be proven wrong. only way i'm going to learn as well


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## AMP (Nov 11, 2006)

If you are set on a UV And Inline Heater, I would advise a Bypass system and run the UV when Needed, I currently am setting up a 90 With a Heavy Fish load to boot, I attached a Link to my Log with all the Pics in it from the start, It IS a Work In progress  The 2215 will Handle the UV and In line Hydor 300 W heater, the 2078 is the Bio Filter. When its all said and done It will be as high Tech as I can make it within a reasonable amount of $$$$

http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/FC5452/NEW AGA 90 Project/

Hope this helps with your plumbing ideas....

PS The UV Is on my 55 right now, I only run it when the Lights are at Full Peak Heavily Planted, and Heavy on the Fish load, 200% worth, and no fish loss, But I believe the Iron Is definitely a concern with UV, My Dosing is double of what it used to be after running it


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## houseofcards (Feb 16, 2005)

Tobias said:


> Thanks for the heads up on the petsmart deal.
> 
> HouseofCards what are the golden rules? I might have already read them because I have been trying to digest as much material on the subject as I can before I even purchase the tank but I am always willing to learn or even get another view on the same material.


I'm referring to:
Low fish load, light feeding and heavy plant load.

Freydo,
It sounded like you were saying you need faster gph for the UV? If it's slow enough for parasites it will also destroy GW.

Amp,
I don't follow you on all the plumbing for the UV. If you don't want to run 24/7 just use a timer.

I do think it's a good idea to have a UV whether or not you might need it. Why go through all the hassle of finding "balance" which you might or might not find. Depending on how heavily you plant, etc you might never find it. I think it's very hard to find balance in 2 to 4 feet of tank depending on what you want to do. The UV helps even the odds alittle bit. Also if you like to have your hands in the tank to fine-tune things, you won't have to worry about GW everytime you stir things up a bit.


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## AMP (Nov 11, 2006)

Maybe I stated myself wrong here, sorry for that, Basically the UV shuts down on a timer system, Lights out, CO2, UV out, The by pass I should have stated, was for maintenance purposes.


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