# Paintball CO2 Washer Problems



## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

I recently bought a Cornelius regulator and a 20 oz paintball cylinder, with a SmartParts on/off valve. There's no problem with screwing the regulator onto the on/off valve, but when I try to fit the washer in between the two, the threads don't reach each other. The washer creates JUST enough separation for that to happen

Has anybody experienced this? Are there any specific washers that would get around this? My current plastic washer is about 2 mm thick.

I know from pictures that regular CO2 cylinders have threading all the way to the end, so a washer wouldn't present a problem, but the on/off valve's threading only begins about 5 millimeters from the end. Including the washer, that's at least 7 millimeters of separation that the regulator nut has to overcome

Any help would be appreciated


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## nanobettaman (Sep 6, 2007)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

I might be a bit confused, but wouldn't the 0-ring on the vakve accomplish what the washer is for?

I'm interested that the nut fit at all, I thought that was the issue with the beer keg regulators and paintball bottles - the sizes weren't compatible unless you bought a regulator specifically for a paintball bottle.


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## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

An inline on/off valve has CGA 320 threading. Connecting that onto a paintball cylinder makes it compatible with a CO2 regulator.

There's an O-ring on the on/off valve, but it serves no use with the CO2 regulator


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## nanobettaman (Sep 6, 2007)

*Re: Paintball CO2*



erijnal said:


> An inline on/off valve has CGA 320 threading. Connecting that onto a paintball cylinder makes it compatible with a CO2 regulator.
> 
> There's an O-ring on the on/off valve, but it serves no use with the CO2 regulator


I'm still confused  that the threads on the valve are different than the threads on the paintball tank?. How does it fit into the marker then? (btw, I'm a woodsballer myself)

I had thought that the washer was to prevent co2 leakage, what function does the washer provide on the regulator? :EDIT Never mind, I answered my own question :doh:

Anyway, if it's a loose nut on a flared-end copper pipe, you can find either the tools, or your local plumber and borrow his - what you want to do is cut the flare off, replace the nut with a longer one, and then re-flare the pipe.

If you can get into the internals, it's possible that the other end isn't flared, but you'd have to take apart the regulator to get at it.

If it's brass I wouldn't know where to begin


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## turbomkt (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

James, do you have links or pictures of what you're talking about?


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## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

Thanks for the response 

I'm actually not a paintballer, everything I'm saying was picked up online. I fixed the problem so far though. I went to a hardware store and bought a couple small nylon washers that fit into a small divot on the on/off valve. Two of these small nylon washers stacked on top of each other was just over 1 mm.

I'll provide pictures later in case someone else runs into this problem. The only thing I have to do now is get my paintball cylinder fully filled and see if it is completely sealed under full pressure.


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## jARDINI (Sep 2, 2007)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

i didnt no you could use paintball Co2 i have 3 20 ounzes wat all do i need to do this


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## nanobettaman (Sep 6, 2007)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

The quickest and easiest is to get a regulator that works with paintball tanks.. for example This one

personally I've love to find a way to use the small disposable 4oz tanks with the ADA mini co2 injector....


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## erijnal (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: Paintball CO2*

Yeah, if you already have one, using a 20 oz paintball tank takes away at least $50 from your system cost. Just install a Smart Parts inline on/off valve onto your 20 oz tank, and you should be good. Don't get the 20 oz tank that comes manufactured with the on/off valve, supposedly those leak after one or two refills.

So you can just get any regulator that's on the market right now (like Azoo, Milwaukee, etc), and if you adapt your paintball tank, you're good to go.

I didn't get an all-in-one regulator, so I had to order (all separately) a primary CO2 regulator, a Cornelius that I got off Ebay for 30 bucks, a needle valve with appropriate adapters to connect to the 1/4" port on the regulator, which I'm getting from Rex Grigg for around 19-23 bucks, and a check valve, which I'm getting from Aquatic Magic along with a bubble counter for 15 bucks. I was lucky enough to get a paintball tank second hand with the Smart Parts on/off valve already installed for 25 bucks, so my total cost came out to be 90 bucks for a pretty nice system, complete with tank.

The only problem I potentially see is that the on/off valve's threading might end too short, which is the problem I had to get around. Also, this probably isn't practical if you want to run a large tank. The 20 oz tank will run out in a month probably, but for my 10 gallon, it'll last me a whiiile.

Sports Chalet was out of CO2, but as soon as I fill the tank up and test the washer again, I'll post back here


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