# [Wet Thumb Forum]-Well I did it....



## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

I broke down and put a solenoid on my CO2 system. It was cheap and it was easy. I also relocated my needle valves to a manifold on my regulator. And not only that I found the neatest little check valves that screw right into the needle valves. I used to run the high (15 psi) pressure gas to the needle valve which was right next to the bubble counter. Now I have low pressure gas in the whole tubing system. Here's a nasty picture of the set up. It was quick, it was dirty, and it was cheap. The manifold and solenoid and a few extra parts all ran me less than $40.










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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

I broke down and put a solenoid on my CO2 system. It was cheap and it was easy. I also relocated my needle valves to a manifold on my regulator. And not only that I found the neatest little check valves that screw right into the needle valves. I used to run the high (15 psi) pressure gas to the needle valve which was right next to the bubble counter. Now I have low pressure gas in the whole tubing system. Here's a nasty picture of the set up. It was quick, it was dirty, and it was cheap. The manifold and solenoid and a few extra parts all ran me less than $40.










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## ekim (Jan 31, 2004)

Oh no..... something else to worry about failing


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## david lim (Mar 30, 2004)

what brand and model solenoid did you end up buying?


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## Hawkeye (Aug 20, 2004)

How did you seal off the tubing on you bubble counter? 

Hawk

Trust But Verify Â«*Â»Â®


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

I just drill a 11/64th hole in the cap. Cut the tubing at an angle, thread though the hole. grab with pliers and pull though. Makes a gas tight seal every-time!

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## merriljw (Feb 3, 2003)

I would also like to know where you got a solenoid so cheap? Does it get very hot when it's turned on?


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## chbak014 (Feb 3, 2003)

my solenoid gets hot when mine is on.
-charley

http://www.geocities.com/charleybak/aquarium.index.html


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

Yeah they get hot. I could just about fry eggs on mine when it is on.

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## eruji (Feb 1, 2003)

I dont completely understand what the solenoid is or how it works. its just a valve that is controlled electronicly right? so why would it get hot? 

Is the purpose to shut the CO2 off when your lights go out? Or do you use it with a PH controller that will shut it off when the PH drops to a certain level. Or is the purpose to not waste CO2.

I havnt bought a pressurized system yet, but i thought that a solenoid was not necessary because the PH swing at night was not enough to hurt most fish.


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## gsmollin (Feb 3, 2003)

A solenoid valve is a valve that is actuated by a solenoid. A solenoid is a coil of wire wrapped around a movable magnetic core. The movable piece is spring-loaded so there is a gap inside the coil. The other end of the core is attached to the valve. When electric current passes through the coil, the magnetic field attracts the core into the coil. It moves, and opens (or closes) the valve. For alternating current (AC) solenoids, there is a complication because the AC would make the solenoid buzz, so the pole pieces are modified by a technique called shading. I won't go into that here, but point it out because DC solenoids cannot be used on AC. The electric current passing through the coil makes it hot. In addition, the AC causes heat in the solenoid, the shaded poles, and the back iron of the solenoid. AC solenoids generally run fairly hot, but should not be hot enough to burn your hand, if they have been designed and manufactured properly. If you want a cooler running solenoid, you need a DC solenoid, or a latching valve.

The purpose of the solenoid valve is to control the flow of gas. A pH controller uses the solenoid valve to shut off gas when the pH passes below the setpoint. Other uses are to shut off the gas at night, or in the event of a power failure, when loss of circulation, lights, and air could make CO2 injection hazardous.

You are right, the solenoid is not necessary, if the rest of the system is designed carefully. I don't use one, and the pH swing is not very large. Frequently, the solenoid valve increases the pH swing, because a total shutoff of CO2 at night is over-control. CO2 continues to escape the aquarium, day and night. Only photosynthesis is affected by the day-night cycle. If one wished to match the CO2 injection to the day-night cycle, then two gas circuits are required, with separate needle valves. One needle valve would be set for nightime use, and the other would be switched in by the solenoid valve for daytime. If one is that worried about pH variations, then one should really get the pH controller.


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

*OMG .... Rex got a solenoid ???*

Not sure where Rex got his but McMaster-Carr has them for $25-30. Not cheap but definately cheaper than the aquamedics.

As for needing a solenoid... it is very much a tank dependant issue. Some tanks will experience a swing. Others will not.

In my case I use $100 controller and a donated solenoid to keep my swing to 0.1. Without the solenoid it will swing almost a whole point.

James Hoftiezer


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

I am playing with the solenoid to see what kind of pH swings I get and see if I can save a little gas. I guess I was bored mainly. Besides that I think the pH swing during the day/night cycle is more natural.









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## ekim (Jan 31, 2004)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by JamesHoftiezer:
> Without the solenoid it will swing almost a whole point.
> James Hoftiezer


Was your KH low (0)? 
All you need is a little more KH and PH swings will be very small (0.1)
Maybe a bad PH test kit?
IMO









[This message was edited by ekim on Fri February 21 2003 at 06:28 PM.]


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## Doomer (Feb 2, 2003)

The only ph swings I get are what the controller allows. I can adjust my bubble rate to just about eliminate all swings but then my solenoid stays on all the time. I run a little higher bubble rate and allow the controller to do it's thing and also the give the solenoid a regular break. Twisted logic I know but tinkering is half the fun.


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

I have a question about Ph Controllers.

I read up on the Milwaukee SMS122 pH controller that James uses.

I read the manual for it on Milwakee's web site and they say calibration once per month is needed. That's fine, but how often does the probe need to be replaced? They are $50 a piece. I'm assuming the 6 month warranty means that it last atleast 6 months. Probably a year.

How many calibrations can be done wit htose 4.0 pH and 7.0 pH samples that Milwakee sells? Do they come with the controller in reasonable amounts or does it come with samples?

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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## JamesHoftiezer (Feb 2, 2003)

After 6 months mine hasn't need an adjustment, but I check it jsut the same.
They suggest replacing probes at 18 months but some people have had them 24+.
They box contains one set of calibration solutions. The replacements can be gotten from anyone, but you will need them. Personally I got 4oz bottles by coralife on clearnace for $0.99 but that was months ago.

*James Hoftiezer

Tank Journal - Aquascape ( Latest / Archive )
Tank Journal - Parts and Construction ( Latest / Archive )*


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## kherman (Apr 7, 2003)

Due to the prices involved, I think I'm going to hold off on a PH controller till after the tank is established. Then I can determine if one is even needed. Thanks James!

Karl

http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.

*I am probably going to start work on my stand for the 100 gallon tank in about 2 weeks(May 22). Pics coming soon







*


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