# Kelvin ratings, KH and algae



## Red_Rose (Mar 18, 2007)

I had tore down my betta's 10g tank in January because the soil was just nasty and the only stench it produced when I drained the tank and removed the gravel was H2S. It took a good hour to get rid of the smell from the house!:icon_oak: Since then, everything has been growing well but I just have one problem and that's thread algae(some also call it hair algae). Before I tore down the tank, I never had a problem with thread algae but now it's all through my Riccia and I have to pick bits of it off of my stem plants.

What I would like to know is what could be causing this algae outbreak? Would changing the kelvin rating to 4100K possibly help since I came across quite a few threads here where people prefer this rating for their NPT's? Right now, I use two 6500K CFL bulbs. Each bulb is 10 watts. It is much easier for me to find bulbs of different watts in 4100K then it is to find ones that are 6500K.

If the lighting has nothing to do with it, could it possibly be the fact that my KH is much lower then it was before? Normally the KH in the tank was anywhere from 17dKH to 22dKH but now since the construction that went on on our street last year, our water is a bit different then before and now the KH in the tanks is in the 7-10dKH range. I've also noticed that since this change, it is difficult for me to grow Hornwort and Duckweed which use to grow like weeds before. So if it isn't the lighting, could increasing the KH help?

There is no ammonia or nitrites(I tested the water) and the nitrates are around 10ppm. My pH is anywhere from 7.8-8.0. The GH is the same as before which is 26dGH. What can I do to help get rid of this algae? I'd love to add Amano shrimp but Max, my new betta(my Jake passed away) is just way too mean and I know for a fact that he would eat them if I had put any in there.

Thanks for any help!


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## mudboots (Jun 24, 2009)

Not sure if you found your answer or not. If not, I haven't a clue about the relationship between the KH and algae, but I know that if you have plants taking up the available nutrients they will out compete most algae, so you may just need more plants. The Kelvin rating you mention and wattage over a 10 gallon seem to be good for most plants. I use 6700K on my 20npt at 2.4 wpg (T5 HO fixture) and a mix of 6700K and 10000K on my 125npt at 1.25 wpg (T5 HO fixtures). They are both pretty new, so I'll have to wait and see on the long term effects of the lighting, but so far I'm having to feed the bristlenose pleco and chinese algae eater wafers to get them fed because algae just isn't growing fast enough to keep up with the snails.


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## Red_Rose (Mar 18, 2007)

mudboots said:


> Not sure if you found your answer or not. If not, I haven't a clue about the relationship between the KH and algae, but I know that if you have plants taking up the available nutrients they will out compete most algae, so you may just need more plants. The Kelvin rating you mention and wattage over a 10 gallon seem to be good for most plants. I use 6700K on my 20npt at 2.4 wpg (T5 HO fixture) and a mix of 6700K and 10000K on my 125npt at 1.25 wpg (T5 HO fixtures). They are both pretty new, so I'll have to wait and see on the long term effects of the lighting, but so far I'm having to feed the bristlenose pleco and chinese algae eater wafers to get them fed because algae just isn't growing fast enough to keep up with the snails.


Wow. Thanks for replying. I didn't think anyone was going to respond since it's been over a week since I made this thread.

I now know why my KH as well as my GH(I tested it a few days ago) is much lower then my guppy tank and that's because I have a Corkscrew Val in there whereas I don't have that plant in my guppy tank.

As for the algae, I've been doing my best to keep it at bay by removing it manually from the plants. I also keep the curtains closed for the first couple of hours in the morning when the sun is coming in onto the tank. I found that has helped reducing it but I think the real reason some of my stem plants are getting some thread algae is because of my Riccia. It's loaded down with thread algae so I'm going to be getting some new floaters for the tank so I can remove the Riccia. I'm going to try a peroxide dip for that plant to see if I can salvage some of it. I have considered adding some Excel to the tank but to be quite honest, I'm a bit nervous about that because I've heard some people have lost plants and fish from it. I'm just going to try adding more plants to see if I can get rid of it that way.

When it comes to the lighting, I've seen 4100K bulbs in ceiling lamps before and I thought the color looked quite nice although I'm sure it would look a bit different if it was lighting up water. Not only that but I can find 4100K CFL bulbs in so many different watts easily whereas 6500K CFL bulbs are more difficult to find. The only other place that sells 6500K bulbs(15 watts) is Big Al's but I think it's a little much to spend over $15 on one bulb whereas I can get a pack of two or more of the 4100K for much cheaper.


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## wkndracer (Mar 23, 2008)

You are correct to worry about your plants using Excel for algae issues. Chain swords and most vals melt at double to triple the recommended dosing levels which is what most threads state using. I personally had prolific chain sword growth until introducing Excel to treat stag horn algae. My sword forest melted and while they recovered after treatment the remaining plants stayed short even months and many water changes later. Regarding 4100K bulbs I’m sorry but can’t help with as the lowest level I have installed is a 5000K / 6500K combination.


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