# using bubble counter with glass diffuser



## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

Hi,

I'm currently using an external bubble counter between my mini glass diffuser (similar to the AB mighty mini) and the solenoid. The problem is sometimes when the solenoid gets turned on/off (it's on a timer) some of the water from the bubble counter would travel up the hose towards the solenoid and gets trapped in the check valve. So when the solenoid goes back on, it takes a while for the gas to push the water back down the hose, into the bubble counter (since I only use around 1bps pressure), and it doesn't create enough pressure to create the mist on the diffuser. I would then have to do a quick blast of gas and mess around with the needle valve to get it back to 1bps, which is a pain as the needle valve is not that reliable to begin with. 

Since I can also see the bubble count inside the glass diffuser (underneath the plate), I wonder if I can do away with the external bubble counter altogether? So just have a check valve between the solenoid and the glass diffuser. That might solve the water trap problem. Can anyone tell me if this is a bad idea or not?

Thanks in advance!
Cheers


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

as some people will tell you, the bubble counter is just a visual tool telling you the rate of CO2 that is going to your tank. it's not really required, but is a good quick reference item.

so if you decide to get rid of the counter, you'll have to confirm your CO2 rate by other means, such as tank pressure, plant growth, fish health, etc.

hope this helps.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I think the check valve needs to be as near the tank as you can get it, with a minimum of CO2 line between it and the diffuser. That should reduce any water flow back into the CO2 line. When I used an Eheim diffuser, it had a built in bubble counter under the difffuser disk, so I removed the bubble counter on the regulator, haven't reinstalled it even though now I don't have a bubble counter at all.


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## Longgoodbye (Jan 22, 2006)

Yes,you can go ahead and get rid of the bubble counter and move the check valve up.


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

Thanks for the replies, especially for the check valve location tip. I will try removing the external bubble counter this weekend and just rely on the bubble count inside the glass diffuser (which BTW is currently different than the bps on the external bubble counter).


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

upikabu said:


> Thanks for the replies, especially for the check valve location tip. I will try removing the external bubble counter this weekend and just rely on the bubble count inside the glass diffuser (which BTW is currently different than the bps on the external bubble counter).


I noticed a big difference too, but the bubble size was very much different too. There really isn't any standard size for a CO2 bubble. Once you find you have the amount of CO2 you want in the water, just note the bubble rate and try to keep it there.


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

*Update*

Well, I tried removing the external bubble counter but it didn't work.  The bubble rate inside my glass diffuser (Mighty Mini style) was not stable at all, making it very hard to achieve a steady bps rate. I'm back to using the external bubble counter.

BTW, is it just me or do these glass diffusers get clogged really easily? I find that I have to clean the disk pretty much every week in order to get a fine mist from most part of disk. 3-4 days after the cleaning, the disk would get clogged with stuff so that the output is larger bubbles instead of fine mist and they would only come out from a couple of locations instead of the whole surface. Any tips to keep them clean longer?

TIA!


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## spcyamada (May 13, 2005)

*Stuff.*

You mentioned that it gets clogged with some kind of stuff. Can you explain what the stuff looks like?


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

> You mentioned that it gets clogged with some kind of stuff. Can you explain what the stuff looks like?


Initialy it looks like a clear film, then as days progressed green/brownish specks appear. After the week it's just dirty looking. Perhaps since I put it directly underneath the HOB's return flow, it's also trapping whatever gunk is not picked up by the HOB media?

Thanks


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## spcyamada (May 13, 2005)

*Diy?*

I had that problem before when using a DIY mixture. There would always be this strange gooey clear film that would cake over time. Ever since purchasing a CO2 tank, those problems have disappeared. I assume that you also have pressurized CO2 since you have a solenoid on a timer. I use a Milwaukee regulator with a bubble counter built into it. I've noticed that using a bubble counter for diy mixtures seems to filter out or catch that gooey stuff before the CO2 is dispensed through the diffuser into the tank. Maybe this is why I don't get any more gooey stuff with my current pressurized setup? 
I don't see why these diffusers would get clogged any faster than another. I've had the AZOO diffuser before and they seem to both clog after time. Keeping the diffuser in a dark corner of the tank shaded by plants seems to keep them from clogging with algae longer. Also, I don't really look at the bubble counter to dose CO2. Instead, it's used more as a quick reference as mentioned by another person. I do a pH test and go from there.

Aaron


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

upikabu said:


> Initialy it looks like a clear film, then as days progressed green/brownish specks appear. After the week it's just dirty looking. Perhaps since I put it directly underneath the HOB's return flow, it's also trapping whatever gunk is not picked up by the HOB media?
> 
> Thanks


Sounds like it's some type of algae or debris growing on the diffuser itself. I've have that problem, but I clean the diffuser about monthly by dipping it in a bleach solution for about 20 minutes while I change water.

-John N.


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## jrvs23 (Apr 14, 2006)

Don't know if your still having the water back flow problem in to your co2 hose. One thing I did was to install a small back flow check valve (or one way valve) about one inch away from my diffuser. This will stop the water from going back any father up your hose and lesson the time it takes for your co2 to start pumping out into the water again. The back flow valve I used was made by tetra and was only a couple of $'s.


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## upikabu (Sep 2, 2005)

Thanks for the additional replies.

I also clean the diffuser in 50% bleach solution weekly, which gets rid of all the gunk, but it doesn't seem to help reduce the period between cleaning. I guess I was just hoping the diffuser could go longer than a week before clogging up. I'm seriously thinking about upgrading to a canister filter to help reduce the amount of gunk in the water and filter return (and create a better flow in the tank overall).



> Don't know if your still having the water back flow problem in to your co2 hose. One thing I did was to install a small back flow check valve (or one way valve) about one inch away from my diffuser.


Fortunately it doesn't seem to be a problem anymore. I've also moved the check valve closer to the diffuser (right above the water surface), which helps a lot. Just wondering though, is your check valve actually inside the tank water since it's so close to the diffuser?


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