# [Wet Thumb Forum]-converting 29g--lighting?circulation?



## javalee (May 8, 2006)

Hi, I've read a bit here when I started my 10g low-light tank. Everywhere else, I get a barrage of CO2 and fertilizer tips. So I appreciate the low-tech help here! My fish like my 10g planted so much (and I like the low maintenance!) now that I wanna turn my 29g into a natural planted too. I have some questions about lighting, respiration, circulation etc. My tank is 29g standard---30"x12"x18"

For lighting, I was considering one of those 55W CF retrofits from AHSupply. This would equal 1.9W/g. Would this be OK in the standard hood light strip? I've read that their reflectors are really good, but I was wondering if I'd get good enough light coverage. I guess I could get a twin strip regular fluorescent (40W) for the same price and better light distribution, but would that be enough for low-light plants?

Right now I have a HOB filter and an airstone just under the surface because I find these tanks don't aerate well with just a HOB. The circulation is poor on the sides now. If I plant, how should I deal with aeration and circulation in this type tank? Should I remove the airstone because it will dissapate the fish-produced CO2? Should I add another HOB to increase circulation or will it be ok left with just one?

Oh, one more question! In trying to assess the maintenance level of these tanks, I'd like to know what the major maintenance chores would be on a set-up this size. I'm not picky about looks and have never vacuumed my 10g; I only add water and the nitrates are a nice 5ppm. However, if I use the 55W, then this tank would have more light than my 10g. Would this=more waste? more trimming/replanting? 
Thanks for any pointers!


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## rgrycki (Jun 13, 2005)

Well I'm definitely not a low-tech expert, but I did just put a 55w AH supply light over my 29 and it provides alot of light. I had an algae outbreak and had to add CO2 to get it under control. I do like your idea of the two 20w strips because this is what I had before, and the plants were healthy, no algae, and more even light distribution.


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## javalee (May 8, 2006)

Thanks RobertG! I just read your post. Sounds like you're just the guy I need to talk to! Interesting, what you said about the twin strip. What kind of plants were doing well with that _low_ light set-up? What was the substrate? My 10g does just fine with 1.5W/g.

Yeah, I was worried about having more light than I could handle with the 55W, and at the same time, having dark areas in the tank. Is your 55W retro-fitted to an old strip/hood or do you have it raised over an all-glass top?

Thanks already! Your experience is really helpful!


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## Canlador (Aug 2, 2004)

Well, I know this probably isn't what you want to hear...and I may just be lucky.

My 29 is my old high tech tank that I unplugged the C02 from. There's a powerhead with a sponge for circulation, but that's all. I have a sand only substrate. I put a bunch of plants in, and just let it go. What a mess! These plants grow like crazy, it's fun to watch. But it works. I've got 2x65 PC bulbs over it. I've never had any algae problems with it.

When I started I had 5 guppies that came with plants. Now there's 30+, I know it's cruel, but I kind of want to see how much that tank can handle.


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## rgrycki (Jun 13, 2005)

I retro-fitted the 55wcf into an old strip light, and I am just now getting the algae under control with rosy barbs and pleco's but the green spot is still slowly overtaking my anubias. With the 2x20 I had an amazon sword, java ferns/moss, anubias, a red stem plant that I believe to be a ludwigia or hygrophila species and some egeria najans. I found with the stem plants that in order for them to grow well I had to add CO2 and ferts with the 55w, but when I got it right they took off, whereas w/ the 2x20 they had slow to moderate growth, but with no ferts or CO2 but I was able to keep the red plant red. My substrate started out as seachem onyx, then I mixed in a bag of eco-complete. I like how the onyx mixes w/ co2 addition, it's a nice bufferer, but not too overpowering. Hope this helps, I am still working out some kinks. And BTW my tank has a fairly high fish load, close to about one inch per gallon, and I am still trying to get my nitrates up.


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## Brizdaddy (Sep 26, 2003)

Hey Javalee - I have a 29G tank that I set uo for a school and it is pretty low tech. I used Schultz aquatic plant soil for the substrate, no CO2, and two 20watt flourescent strip lights mounted in a DIY hood. It is filtered with a HOB filter and no ferts are added. The plants that I have in there are Rotala, Hygro, Dwarf Sag, Java Fern, and Corkscrew Val. They all grow great and I have never had an algae problem. 
I also have a 55G high tech and I like the 29G setup better. I work on the tank 1 time a week and the kids at the school feed the fish.


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## Brizdaddy (Sep 26, 2003)

correction - I use (2)40 watt double tube strip lights moounted under a hood for 80 total Watts of light. The strip lights are 24" long and fit perfect over the 29G tank.


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## jaybird002 (May 12, 2006)

Javalee, I have the same size tank and equipment. Just upgraded from a 2x20-watt fluorescent (40 total) light to a 55-watt compact fluorescent. 
With the old light, anuibus did great, swordplant OK, but hygro and water sprite would not grow in the gravel. Stems rotted. Not enough light penetration, I guess. And the beard and brush algae grew great. Floating hornwort grows well but becomes clogged with green slimy algae.
I am hoping the 55w CF will correct this but not encourage more aglae growth. BTW, beard and brush algae has receded greatly since I bought 2 Siamese algae eaters. I can actually see the bare leaves!
I would be interested an any suggestions people have. I have plain gravel substrate (a mistake I know)to which I add Flourish tabs around the swordplant and Kent liquid micros with iron. About 9 hours of light daily. Ammonia and nitrate-0. Nitrate-20. PH-7.8 Water relatively hard, KH about 4. Not sure of other nutrient levels.


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## javalee (May 8, 2006)

Thanks so much everyone for all the shared experience! It's nice to hear about the variety of working options.

Brizdaddy, are you sure you have 24" 40W tubes? That would be great, but I can only find 24" 20W tubes. Twin tubes sounds ideal. I read that Powerglo tubes pack more intensity (making 2x20W powerglo a possibility); Anyone know if this is so?

Otherwise I guess I'll go with the 1x55W CF. I wonder what the actual wattage is with this set-up? Since CF pack more power. 

Good to hear that miinimal circulation will work ok. Thanks again; y'all are really helpful!


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

> Originally posted by jaybird:
> With the old light, anuibus did great, swordplant OK, but hygro and water sprite would not grow in the gravel. Stems rotted. Not enough light penetration, I guess. And the beard and brush algae grew great. Floating hornwort grows well but becomes clogged with green slimy algae.
> 
> I would be interested an any suggestions people have. I have plain gravel substrate (a mistake I know)to which I add Flourish tabs around the swordplant and Kent liquid micros with iron. About 9 hours of light daily. Ammonia and nitrate-0. Nitrate-20. PH-7.8 Water relatively hard, KH about 4. Not sure of other nutrient levels.


Dear JayBird,

You can control algae growth by limiting water iron. Iron is so insoluble in water that the water can easily become quite depleted of it, thus limiting algae growth. Rooted plants can get their iron from a soil substrate to fulfill their needs.

That's why combining soil (natural anaerobic environment containing plentiful iron) with water devoid of iron is a lovely combination for controling alage.

When you add iron fertilizers to the water, you are stimulating algae growth.

Try going without the liquid fertilizers for awhile and see what happens. You can always add a few drops if new leaves turn yellow. Substrate fertilization with iron is good, but not water fertilization.

The water in my tanks is so depleted of iron, that I have big trouble growing floating plants. But my rooted plants do great!


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## javalee (May 8, 2006)

Diana, I'd be interested in knowing what you'd recommend for your type of soil set-up in this size tank: a 2x20W or a 1x55 compact fluorescent? I've never used soil before and don't know what to expect with the high intensity CF (I hear the W/gal rule doesn't exactly apply to CF)plus soil. I thought I could add Seachem Onyx if the plants would need more Carbon (I don't do CO2!).Thanks!


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Dear Javalee,

If this is a 29 gal, I'm not sure that one 55 watt CF is enough, whether or not you use soil. If it is a 10 gal, no problem!

I'm sorry but I only have experience with unfertilized garden soil or potting soil (designed for growing houseplants). I cannot advise you on SeaChem or other "packaged" soils.

Overall advise is to combine good lighting with soil, many plant species including some emergent plants, and good lighting.


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## javalee (May 8, 2006)

Wow, ok, I was worried about a 55W CF being too much. Thanks for the pointer. I was planning on a low-light soil tank. This type light would give me about 2W/gal(CF with a good reflector is supposed to increase the intensity above the wattage rating). What is the ideal W/gal for use with soil?

I only mentioned the Seachem onyx as a supplement to the soil since I have _very_ soft water anyway. I figured I would have to add shell or something to boost Ca++ and CO3, and I read that onxy does this.


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Dear Javalee

Lighting intensity is another nuanced thing depending on the plant species you want, etc. I think 2 watts/gal is the borderline lighting for tall tanks like the 29 gal (18 inches tall?).

People I know get great results with a 15 watt over a 10 gal but poor results with a 55 gal over a 29 gal. Same water, care, soil, etc. I think you just have to try it. 

So many variables. If your tank gets a little window light, then fluorescent lighting "rules" get thrown out the window.

I think that 55 watts over the 29 gal seems borderline but reasonable. Because this is minimal lighting, I would match it with "minimal substrate". The soil layer should be shallow (1/2 inch?) and unfertilized.

Others have used onxy successfully to increase water hardness. It sounds reasonable.

Hope this helps.


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## Brizdaddy (Sep 26, 2003)

> Originally posted by javalee:
> 
> Brizdaddy, are you sure you have 24" 40W tubes? That would be great, but I can only find 24" 20W tubes. Twin tubes sounds ideal. I read that Powerglo tubes pack more intensity (making 2x20W powerglo a possibility); Anyone know if this is so?
> 
> The lights are 20W each but I squeezed 4 of them over the tank for a total of 80W. This tank is much easier to care for than any other tank I have ever had


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## javalee (May 8, 2006)

Sorry Brizdaddy, you did make that clear in your last post and I missed it. That sounds like a great way to get good even light distribution. I appreciate your info. Yours is just the kind of tank I want!


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