# Can't get Algae to leave!



## artemism3 (May 21, 2005)

Ok, here is what I am dealing with!

I have BBA, Green dust algae on the glass, and a furry green like algae on my rocks.

I have done 2 complete 3 day blackouts, dipped all plants, rocks, etc in a potassium perroganate dip, and it just won't leave! I am completely frustrated at this point!

specs:
Light 4X65 coralife aqualight
substrate is Tahitian moon sand
Pressurized co2
Tap water is a ph of 8, kh of 10, gh of 1
Tank is currently at 6.4ph, kh of 10, gh 1 ( no fish stress )
BTW, I have an issue that my tank water is about 7.2 ph when it has been out gassed.
Nitrates are 20ppm
Phospates are 1
Dosing ferts 3x/week, 1/4tsp of Kno3 and 1/16tsp kh2po4 on even days, csm+b on odd days.
50% water changes weekly.

Plants are growing well, even have my riccia grids pearling each night, but I am sick of the algae problems.

Thanks for any advice and help!!!

Jeremy


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## cminghan (Oct 7, 2004)

i have try this medication from Azoo product , it give me a excellent result, but beware that might affacted some snail,shirmp and fish, so its advice to remove all the live stock before ading this in.
the product name is BRUSH ALGEA KILLIER from AZOO


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

You need to increase your C02 up to 30ppm. Before doing this also increase your KH up to at least 3 to keep the PH stable. 

Reduce the N03 down to 10ppm or increase the P04 up to 2ppm.

Make sure that you are keeping the lights on for only 10-12 hours daily. You can also decrease your lighting down by 2 hours daily for 2 weeks. 

Just a note: Algae killers are only a temporary solution to the the problem.


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## artemism3 (May 21, 2005)

I believe I am getting more the 30ppm of Co2...dropped tap water ph from 8 to 6.4, according to chuck's calculator, this gives me 119ppm of co2...

Kh is 10 degrees, I don't think I should increase this....

I will try and drop the nitrates to 10 or so.

Lighting is on only 11hrs, 9 am to 8 pm.

I really have no clue as to what I am doing/have done that is wrong?


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Jeremy, I'm sorry I mis-read your post as saying 1 degree KH 

_How many gallons is your tank?_

_How long has your tank been set up?_


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## Simpte 27 (Jul 16, 2004)

The only way to get rid of green dust (that I know of)is to scrape it off the walls and do a large waterchange. You may have to repeat this process a few times a week.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Blackouts do nothing for BBA.

At a GH of 1 your tank may not have enough Calcium and/or Magnesium. I'd add this either using Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) and Magnesium Sulfate (MgSO4) or add Seachem Equilibrium which will raise your GH without affecting your KH.

How big is the tank and how heavily planted is it?

At the same time as raising your GH, maybe lower your lightperiod from 11 hours to 9...


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## Wö£fëñxXx1 (Feb 10, 2005)

artemism3 said:


> Ok, here is what I am dealing with!
> 
> I have BBA, Green dust algae on the glass, and a furry green like algae on my rocks.
> 
> ...


BBA=Inadequate C02....which would also account for green dust and furry stuff!!

Based on you're dosing regime I would say you have a 20gal? tank..Ha but with 4x65 watt, something is not right, 
You're dosing regime 


> Dosing ferts 3x/week, 1/4tsp of Kno3 and 1/16tsp kh2po4 on even days, csm+b on odd days.
> 50% water changes weekly.


 is "per 20gal" 
So you are doing something wrong, misreading something. either increase fert's to accomodate tank size or reduce lighting....
Plus, you left out some "Would have been helpful" NFO


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## Simpte 27 (Jul 16, 2004)

I have never known green dust algae to be CO2 related. It grows well in both situations.


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## artemism3 (May 21, 2005)

Tank size is a 75 gallon, been setup since February.

Tank is heavily planted now...was moderately planted 1 month ago.

I was dosing 1/2tsp of kno3 3x/week, but my nitrates seemed rather high 40ppm or so...I guess I am an overfeeder 

I have had an issue with my milwaukee needle valve/bubble counter...Every few days I have to adjust the needle to bring the bubble rate back up. I have increased the pressure and dialed it in with the needle valve, so hopefully no more fluctuating co2..


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## Wö£fëñxXx1 (Feb 10, 2005)

Toss you're test kit's aside for awhile, they lie, algae and plant' do not lie! Also those number tend to lead people in a bad way for some reason, they think 30~40 ppm KN03(if in fact your test kit is totally accurate, which it probably is not), 2~5 ppm P04 is way wya bad and there tank will explode.. lol... not
Do not put a $10 test kits opinion over you're $1000+/- tanks health.

Advice is a dime a dozen, bad advice is even cheaper...

If you have to, suppliment with Flourish Excel Increase C02-off/on with lights.
"Rule of Thumb"
1/4Tsp-KN03 per 20gal 3x a week
1/16+Tsp-KH2P04 per 20gal 3x aweek
1/16+Tsp K2S04 per 20gal 3x a week
5ml Trace per 20gal 3x a week
1-2ml Fe/Iron per 20gal 3x a week
Trace Element and Iron, either Retail Premixed, such as Flourish, TMG, etc or Plantex CSM,CSM+B,CSM+B w/Extra Iron & Fe/Iron Chelate 10%- mix 1Tbsp per 250ml/ one capful=5ml
Increase surface movement for night time/lights out, decrease for opposite.
www.gregwatson.com has all of this.

For a 75g
50%H20 change
3/4Tsp KN03 3x a week
1/4Tsp KH2P04 3x a week
15ml Trace 3x a week
Increase C02, even if you have to use Flourish Excel
Pick, clean, prune, preen, all plant's, manually remove as much algae as you can, good condition's will stop at most. slow it's growth, you will have to remove it by hand...
This NFO along with you following it, will infact get you're tank back on trac, then tweaking fert's for whatever reason, is strictly up to you my friend...
*Make sure you're C02 is at optimul condition's check, recheck and double check *

Also when feeding, try feeding less more frequently 
Good luck and good day!!


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## artemism3 (May 21, 2005)

Craig,

What should I use to check my Co2 levels? Should I invest in a digital ph meter, rather then the AP master test kit?

I only feed once a day, I will feed less!

Currently my Co2 is on 24/7. Should I only run it during lighting hours? ( I know responses on this will vary...)

Also is the surface agitation necessary at night? Should I move a spraybar for one of my eheim filters ( 2217 and 2215 ) to blow across the surface at night?

Thank you to everyone's help! I really appreciate it!!

Jeremy


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## Wö£fëñxXx1 (Feb 10, 2005)

Jeremy
You can use you're AP kits to check C02, but use it only as a "Guide" not a rule,
Reading C02 is an art almost, learn to read it by "Feel". 
Turn it up, I run 3~4 bubbles a sec best I can count during light's on,
I have my solenoid plugged into my timer with light's, on/off with light's I would recommend you do the same, for obvious reason's, that's what the Solenoid is for, plus, the plant's or nothing else in or around the tank need's C02 when light's are off, and you save that much C02, twice as much actually, think about it, it just make's good sense.
Some folks may argue, that's fine too.

Surface agitation is not totally necessary, but at this point, yeah I think it is merited. some agitation is good, to much is not, increase aggitation till you start getting some bubble blowing all around after lights go off, let that run during the night, lower spraybar before light's on, you will see...

If you will clean as much goo out as you can, prune, preen the plant's, then do a vac/H20 change, dose as above, turn up the C02, let that run for about 30 minutes to an hour, then ease into you're light's/ say 130wats, first 2hrs/ then full 260watts, next 6~7 hrs, then back to 130 watts last 2 hrs, you will start to see a huge difference very soon...


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## Wö£fëñxXx1 (Feb 10, 2005)

To rid the tank of greendust, Dose/clean as above, also, when doing H20 changes, when tank is half or more empty, use clean paper towels, to clean the glass on the inside, swipe down, flip towel swipe up, toss and new towel..this helps from getting all that crap back in the water, it may take a couple or more of H20 changes doing this, but it does help tremendously, stay on top of everything prescribed here, and you *will* see a difference.. promise!


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## |squee| (Feb 3, 2005)

Here's my take:

Green dust: Read this. Tom Barr (plantbrain) has also posted up quite a bit on Green dust removal.

BBA: Do not trust your test kits, no matter how expensive they may be. You'll notice that the best way is to tell from the plants and algae growth. For me, I blast my CO2 to the point where fauna doesn't get stressed. That ensures that I have over 30ppm of CO2, which should stop BBA from spreading, but present BBA will not be killed off. These have to be manually removed.


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## artemism3 (May 21, 2005)

Thank you for all the help!

I will do as stated and report back. 

I appreciate all the assistance!

Jeremy


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

All the advice above should help alot. Be patient and give things time to change (at least two to three weeks).

I'd still try to get your GH up from 1 to around 5 or you will run into Calcium/Magnesium deficiency issues...


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