# 30cm Low Tech Cube



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Howdy! I kept nano marine tanks for years but after my beloved watchmen goby (had him for 4 1/2 years!!) jumped I let my tank fade away. I bought a 12" Mr. Aqua cube years ago and drilled it intending for it to replace my 8 gallon biocube. It has a 2.5 gallon refugium and a Coral Compulsion 14K full spectrum dimmable par38 that has barely any use.

I'm very interested in turning this tank into a low tech planted beginner tank with maybe some shrimp and a betta.

The bulb specs are:
2 Deep Blue 455nm
4 Neutral White 4500k
2 Cool Blue 470nm
2 True Violet 420nm
1 Deep Red 660nm
1 Cyan 495nm

Would this be acceptable for easy to grow freshwater plants? I was thinking of going with the Walstad method since I'm very new. Water changes won't be a problem for me to do since I'm used to the pain in the butt process of mixing salt water. Any feedback from the community is greatly appreciated!

Here are some old pics of the tank (it's still sitting in the same spot 4 years later lol so it's a bit dusty now)










Thanks for looking! I'll set up a legit tank thread when it's up and running.


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Welcome to APC!

Hoppy is our resident lighting expert, so I will let him comment. The fact that the light is dimmable is a big plus. Re the Walstad method, I think is a great way to learn about planted tanks and I have never felt the need to do anything else. But if you do want a high tech tank later, you can convert a Walstad tank by increasing light, and adding fertilization and CO2.


----------



## DutchMuch (Apr 12, 2017)

Welcome 
Any tank is capable to grow plants.. even a 0.000001 gallon tank!!!!! (ok lets not get insane) As for the light I agree w/ Michael, hoppy is the expert ATM- but my guess is it would be great for low-medium tech, possibly even a high tech light. Walstad is a good method  Sometimes its better for newcomers, sometimes not, however it seems to be the first thing newcomers go to so I cant complain lol (ive never done one).

Again welcome!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Thanks for the welcome! I've always loved planted tanks but got bit by the soft coral bug for a while. Expensive stuff 😂

Any recommendations on beginner plants and substrate? I have everything for this tank and could get it up and running pretty quickly (but definitely have the patience to wait for the cycle to complete before adding fish). I do need to pick up a test kit as all of mine are for reefs.

If I end up loving planted tanks I have a drilled 40 breeder and a huge T5-HO light that is begging to have a purpose. One step at a time.


----------



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I enjoy working with lights, but I don't believe I know enough to qualify as an expert. My opinion is that the primary reason the type of lighting you described isn't "good" for a planted tank is that it looks very abnormal, and doesn't let you see the real colors of the plants and fish. I much prefer to use natural white with some additional 660 nm light to better show off the colors, and add a bit more of the light that plants seem to do best with. Also my preference is to use about 35-45 PAR lighting, no higher, unless you want to be able to grow the "difficult" plants, and want to get as much of the potential red in the plants colors as is possible. When you go that way you also need to use pressurized CO2 to fill the plant's need for enough carbon to support the faster growth the higher light intensity will cause. And, of course, the more light you have, the more likely you will spend more of your hobby time fighting algae.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

hoppycalif said:


> I enjoy working with lights, but I don't believe I know enough to qualify as an expert. My opinion is that the primary reason the type of lighting you described isn't "good" for a planted tank is that it looks very abnormal, and doesn't let you see the real colors of the plants and fish. I much prefer to use natural white with some additional 660 nm light to better show off the colors, and add a bit more of the light that plants seem to do best with. Also my preference is to use about 35-45 PAR lighting, no higher, unless you want to be able to grow the "difficult" plants, and want to get as much of the potential red in the plants colors as is possible. When you go that way you also need to use pressurized CO2 to fill the plant's need for enough carbon to support the faster growth the higher light intensity will cause. And, of course, the more light you have, the more likely you will spend more of your hobby time fighting algae.


Thanks for popping in, Hoppy! I was wondering how green plants would look under these lights (although my green star polyps in my salty tank looked electric under this light I'm guessing green plants wouldn't have the same look). I'm not really looking to do anything too difficult yet so red plants would be on the back burner for now. Is there a light fixture you would recommend for a 12" cube? Aesthetics are important (i.e. not hanging over the edge too much) to me, and also I'm on a budget since my wife knows my tendency to drift in and out of hobbies.


----------



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...1917-diy-led-light-coralife-biocube-32-a.html is my latest attempt to make my own light. This one is still working very well - granted this is the second week of its life. There is enough information there to figure out how to get the light intensity you want, if you are a DIYer. If this was going to be visible I would have made a simple enclosure for it with 2 inch aluminum angle, and used the heatsink as the top of the enclosure. Other than that, no I don't have a good recommendation for a 12" cube tank.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

hoppycalif said:


> https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com...1917-diy-led-light-coralife-biocube-32-a.html is my latest attempt to make my own light. This one is still working very well - granted this is the second week of its life. There is enough information there to figure out how to get the light intensity you want, if you are a DIYer. If this was going to be visible I would have made a simple enclosure for it with 2 inch aluminum angle, and used the heatsink as the top of the enclosure. Other than that, no I don't have a good recommendation for a 12" cube tank.


I love BioCubes! they have such a clean look. I have an empty 8 gallon in my shed but I'm pretty sure the bottom is cracked (unless it's just extra black silicon in a cracked pattern which is unlikely). I'll probably try to use my light since it was pretty expensive but will definitely keep it dimmed. I'll also have it mounted in a goose neck to I can always raise it up off of the surface a little more. I'm fully prepared to fight algae as it was a constant battle in my salty tank. Again, thanks for popping in and offering your help.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Does anyone have any opinions on what substrate to use for the soil layer? I'll probably go with black blasting sand for the cap layer and just use a razor blade for algae removal on the glass.


----------



## DutchMuch (Apr 12, 2017)

Like to cap it?
Nothing better than BDBS or PFS
But if you mean what soil- I used Aarons method here on APC pretty much- except I made my own tweaks to it. EcoScraps (in the orange bag only) is the soil I used.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

DutchMuch said:


> Like to cap it?
> Nothing better than BDBS or PFS
> But if you mean what soil- I used Aarons method here on APC pretty much- except I made my own tweaks to it. EcoScraps (in the orange bag only) is the soil I used.


Sorry I meant what soil to use. Do you have a link to Aaron's method? Thank you!


----------



## DutchMuch (Apr 12, 2017)

https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com...-mineralized-soil-substrate-aaron-talbot.html 
np


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

DutchMuch said:


> https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com...-mineralized-soil-substrate-aaron-talbot.html
> np


Immediately after hitting submit on my last post I found the search feature hidden at the bottom. I really appreciate the help. Being new at something can be pretty intimidating. The more I read the more I realize this is just underwater gardening. With marine tanks it's all just sand lol. Luckily I have gardened before and have experience keeping fish so with a little nudging I shouldn't mess things up too badly.


----------



## DutchMuch (Apr 12, 2017)

phhh this to me is major science stuff (if u want MAJOR SCIENCE STUFF go on barrreport LOL youll be eye opened a bit) 
Marine tanks im so scared to do.... A friend of mine took the jump recently, and he had NO info on it- he said thats why he did it (I kind of pushed him to lol) and he is growing zoas an all sorts of stuff now. #GardenersAssociation


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

DutchMuch said:


> phhh this to me is major science stuff (if u want MAJOR SCIENCE STUFF go on barrreport LOL youll be eye opened a bit)
> Marine tanks im so scared to do.... A friend of mine took the jump recently, and he had NO info on it- he said thats why he did it (I kind of pushed him to lol) and he is growing zoas an all sorts of stuff now. #GardenersAssociation


Tell him to look into nano-reef.com if he ever needs guidance. That place is really great.


----------



## DutchMuch (Apr 12, 2017)

RIP said:


> Tell him to look into nano-reef.com if he ever needs guidance. That place is really great.


dm-ing him as I read that lol
done


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

There is a thread just for you: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/84918-suitable-soils-walstad-method.html

This is an extensive discussion of soil substrates for the Walstad method. There is a lot of overlap between this and Aaron Talbot's mineralized topsoil (MTS) article. I think of them as complementary techniques, with MTS being especially useful if you are working with a highly organic or fertile soil as your starting material.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Michael said:


> There is a thread just for you: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/84918-suitable-soils-walstad-method.html
> 
> This is an extensive discussion of soil substrates for the Walstad method. There is a lot of overlap between this and Aaron Talbot's mineralized topsoil (MTS) article. I think of them as complementary techniques, with MTS being especially useful if you are working with a highly organic or fertile soil as your starting material.


I really appreciate it! I'll give this a thorough read.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I can't seem to find the pump that was supposed to go with the tank originally. It was a minijet 606. Does anyone have a suggestion for an adjustable submersible pump? Since this will now be a planted tank I don't need much power behind it.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I found it! It's covered in dead coralline algae some I'm running it in some vinegar water. Trying to find out the gph @ 32" head height for this on the lowest setting since I was a nice gentle turnover.


----------



## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Hydor Koralia Nano Aquarium Circulation Pump, which you can get from Amazon, among other places, is a very good choice. The advantage of this type of pump/powerhead is that it doesn't send a small high velocity jet of water across the tank. It sends a much larger jet of much lower velocity.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

hoppycalif said:


> Hydor Koralia Nano Aquarium Circulation Pump, which you can get from Amazon, among other places, is a very good choice. The advantage of this type of pump/powerhead is that it doesn't send a small high velocity jet of water across the tank. It sends a much larger jet of much lower velocity.


This tank is drilled and will have a 2.5g "refugium" (aka just a place to put a heater in the winter and maybe some carbon if need be). Luckily I found my old Minijet 606. If the planted tank bug bites me I have a drilled 40 breeder, 36" 8 bulb T5-HO, and a Vortech MP-10. Man I have a lot of stuff laying around lol.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I might as well make this my tank thread since I've now ordered some stuff! I placed an order for 17lbs of seiryu rock from Amazon ($32 shipped!), The API master test kit, and a stainless grooming kit. I have the tank leak testing in the garage since it has been sitting for a while. 

For soil my plan is to mineralize some potting soil and mix 1:1 with Safe-T-Sorb for a 1/2" layer and cap with a 1" layer of Safe-T-Sorb.

Any suggestions on low tech plants for a beginner?


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Go to the Plant Finder, third item in the blue bar just below the forum title. Look for the Hardiness option, and select Easy or Very Easy from the drop-down menu. This will show you a list with photos, click on any plant in the list for more information.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Michael said:


> Go to the Plant Finder, third item in the blue bar just below the forum title. Look for the Hardiness option, and select Easy or Very Easy from the drop-down menu. This will show you a list with photos, click on any plant in the list for more information.


Will do! I've been watching a ton of Youtube videos trying to figure it all out. So far I have this list of potential plants:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Chain Swords
S. Repens - (the video said this one is a little more difficult but still pretty easy for a beginner)
Anubias
Cryptocorynes
Java Fern
Duck weed (I just think they look really cool)
Amazon sword (not sure if this one is too big for my tank)


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I've decided to mineralize some Nature's Care Organic soil for this tank. Going to pick some up now.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

The Pisces Seiryu stones arrived today. They are very nice looking. There is one large show piece and several smaller jagged pieces all with tons of character. 17lbs is way too much for this tank and still have room to heavily plant. After their 48 hour soak (recommended on the bag) I'll arrange the rocks in several ways and see what you guys think looks the best. I love the iwagumi look (as far as stone placement).


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Picked up the Safe-T-Sorb today and sifted the soil. I have the soil soaking in a bucket now. Man I can't wait to get this thing going!


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

This part is tedious, but you are doing it the right way and it will pay off.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Michael said:


> This part is tedious, but you are doing it the right way and it will pay off.


Yeah I'm trying to set myself up for success even if it takes longer. I went ahead and bit the bullet on a new light since my LED screw in is 14K (waaaaaay too blue). I went with the Finnex 12" Stingray. Hopefully this will be enough light. Thoughts?


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Not much new to report. The soil is going through its second soak after drying out in a tote for a couple of days. I figure I'll do the soak/dry thing one more time after this and call it good.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

One question: Is the use of tap water acceptable in planted tanks? I know it's a big no-no in reef tanks. Should I run some tests on my tap water? I have the API master freshwater kit and also added the GH/KH test.


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Unless your tap water is very unusual, it will be OK. Since you have the test kit, go ahead and test it but only after the sample has set in an open container overnight. Aeration of the sample is also good. These steps more accurately replicate the chemistry of your tap water after it has been circulating in an aquarium for a while.

A Walstad tank probably will change the chemistry of your tap water for the better.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Michael said:


> Unless your tap water is very unusual, it will be OK. Since you have the test kit, go ahead and test it but only after the sample has set in an open container overnight. Aeration of the sample is also good. These steps more accurately replicate the chemistry of your tap water after it has been circulating in an aquarium for a while.
> 
> A Walstad tank probably will change the chemistry of your tap water for the better.


Excellent! I'll bubble some tap water overnight and test tomorrow. I'll be sure to post the results.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Not much new to report. Still wetting and drying dirt (on the 3rd round). I figure I'll do it one more time and call it good. I'm still finding tiny sticks after each round so I'm glad I decided to do this multiple times. I'm also torn on my hardscape. Mind the dirty glass

Option 1:









Option 2:









I really like the small rock in option 2 (it has striking black/white streaks) but I think I generally prefer option 1. The large rock on the left is actually 3 rocks that I bonded together with Aquamend and superglue. Keep in mind that there will be 1" of substrate (1/2 soil, 1/2 cap) in the front sloping to 2" in the back. Thanks for looking!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

We'll, I ended up going with option 2. Tank has dirt and cap in it now. I'll fill it up with water that I'm bubbling tomorrow, let it settle, then change the water before getting plants. I'm probably going to place an order with liveaquaria tonight but I'm still not sure what I'll get. I'll be sure to post what I pick


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Filled the tank today! Just wanted to let it run for a couple of days before my plant order gets here (went with the beginner plant package from Dustin's Fish Tanks). I also ordered some driftwood from eBay to help add some aesthetics to the tank. I'll soak it for a couple of days before adding. It will give me more room to tie plants/moss.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Can you tell I'm excited?


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Welp, she's planted now! Aquascaping was a total PIA in this tiny tank. It took forever just to get everything to stay down let alone make it look nice. I did my best though! I don't think I'll have room in this tank for the driftwood at the moment. Maybe when the tank is more established I can pull some of the stems. Any feedback/suggestions are greatly appreciated and encouraged! I'm sure I'll end up redoing things a few times over the next day or so. The spread out look is already bugging me lol.



















The shipment didn't have an itemized invoice so I'm mostly guessing at the plant species. My guess is:

Java fern (tucked into the rock crevices)
Anubias nana (also tucked in to the rock)
Cryptorcyne spiralis
Dwarf sag. (the little tufts in the front)
Bacopa monnieri
Rotalla Indica

How did I do?


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

Looks good! Newly planted tanks almost always look like a bad hair transplant. As the plants fill in you will see changes you want to make, this is normal.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Michael said:


> Looks good! Newly planted tanks almost always look like a bad hair transplant. As the plants fill in you will see changes you want to make, this is normal.


Thank you! I ended up changing things a little bit. I'll snap a pic when the water is cleared up a little. I'll leave it how it is until things start to get established. I'm sure things will die off as well since this my 1st planted tank.

How often do you guys do water changes when initially cycling?


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Final scape for now. I was thinking of ordering some moss balls to fill out the right front corner.


----------



## kafkabeetle (Oct 11, 2011)

Looks good!

I suggest next time doing a bit thicker layer of substrate. In the past I have *always* struggled with things becoming uprooted during and in the first few weeks after planting. For my most recent tank I put just under an inch of soil and 1 inch of sand. Let me tell you, it was waaaaay easier to plant. I have also read that the larger the particle size, the harder it is to anchor in new stems. From now on I'm going to always use sand, with only a sprinkle on top of something larger if that's the look I want.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

kafkabeetle said:


> Looks good!
> 
> I suggest next time doing a bit thicker layer of substrate. In the past I have *always* struggled with things becoming uprooted during and in the first few weeks after planting. For my most recent tank I put just under an inch of soil and 1 inch of sand. Let me tell you, it was waaaaay easier to plant. I have also read that the larger the particle size, the harder it is to anchor in new stems. From now on I'm going to always use sand, with only a sprinkle on top of something larger if that's the look I want.


Yeah I had the same thought mid way through. At least they seem to be staying put now even with the pump o


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Not much new to report other than some new runners from the dwarf sag and an explosion of tiny snails that must have ridden in on one of the plants. I guess that's a good sign as far as water quality. I plan on testing the water for the 1st time tonight and doing a 1 gallon water change.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Test results:

GH: 6
KH: 4
pH: 7.6
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm

I'd think since there is no ammonia and little nitrite that there would be nitrates. Did mineralizing the soil break down the organic matter so much that there is nothing to decompose? I probably won't do a water change (unless someone more experienced thinks it would be beneficial).

What do these numbers tell you, APC?


----------



## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

I like that you put the rocks directly on the glass. And I have to say, I really like those rocks.

If your plants come loose, you can always add a small stone or a bit more gravel. 

With the clear water, the decent water parameters, and the absence of animals, I don't see any reason for a water change. If you add animals, I would make sure that the nitrites have come down, either by a water change or plants/bacteria/time. 

Pretty tank!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

dwalstad said:


> I like that you put the rocks directly on the glass. And I have to say, I really like those rocks.
> 
> If your plants come loose, you can always add a small stone or a bit more gravel.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the kind words! I definitely plan on waiting for 0 nitrites before adding livestock.

Speaking of animals I was thinking of a few cory catfish and one male betta for fish and some cherry/ghost/amano shrimp (not all 3, maybe just two species depending on availability) and small snails for the clean up crew. Does this sound reasonable for my tank? I realize that the betta may attack the shrimp but hopefully the tank will be filled in enough to provide hiding spots.


----------



## kafkabeetle (Oct 11, 2011)

There are very few fish I would recommend putting with shrimp, Bettas especially. And in such a small tank the plants may or may not allow the shrimp to survive long term. I'd choose one or the other. I particularly like shrimp because they are cute, easily reproduce and cleanup algae and dead plant matter.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

kafkabeetle said:


> There are very few fish I would recommend putting with shrimp, Bettas especially. And in such a small tank the plants may or may not allow the shrimp to survive long term. I'd choose one or the other. I particularly like shrimp because they are cute, easily reproduce and cleanup algae and dead plant matter.


I'll probably skip the shrimp in that case. My wife is pretty set on a betta. If she ever wants to start a tank maybe I could transfer the betta to her tank and fill mine with shrimp. I do have an extra 10gal laying around.... Thank you for the input!


----------



## kafkabeetle (Oct 11, 2011)

It sounds like your tank holds about 5 gallons, right? In that case I would opt for a Betta and some snails. Anymore fish than that would be overstocking imo. Nerites come with all sorts of stripey patterns and can't breed in freshwater. Malaysian trumpet snails would be another good option.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

With the volume removed from sand and rocks I'd say it's a little over 6 (with another 2 gallons in the sump).


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I tested the water a couple of days ago and Nitrites and Ammonia were both zero so today I ordered a fish from ebay. He comes from a breeder in Miami and I can't wait to add him to the tank when he gets here.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

The fish arrived safely. He's been exploring his new home and enjoying being out of a tiny bag.


----------



## kafkabeetle (Oct 11, 2011)

He's pretty!


----------



## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Beautiful fish and patriotic colors!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Thank you for the kind words! He's an active and curious little guy. He doesn't seem to know what to do with blood worms but takes pellets readily. These fish really do look best in naturally planted tanks. He's loving all of the cover (and the duck weed comes in tomorrow).


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

well crap. the duckweed got here today but I guess it's a smaller plant than I thought. about 80% of it went right down my overflow. is there a larger floating plant that's good for beginners?


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I went ahead and just turned off the pump for now. There should be plenty of oxygen in the water so no need for circulation yet.


----------



## mysiak (Jan 17, 2018)

RIP said:


> well crap. the duckweed got here today but I guess it's a smaller plant than I thought. about 80% of it went right down my overflow. is there a larger floating plant that's good for beginners?


Ordered by size, from the smallest - Salvinia natans, Red root floater, Amazon frogbit, Dwarf lettuce. Personally I like Salvinia and RRF the most - easy to control, don't get huge, don't have roots tangled through the whole tank. Especially suitable for small tanks. Amazon frogbit and Dwarf lettuce look nice in big tanks or ponds. None of them like too much of surface agitation and they'll rot if pushed under the water by flow. Otherwise there is nothing special needed, if there are nutrients in the water, they grow. If not, they don't 

Btw. Duckweed isn't called "the herpes of a planted tank" for nothing. I am trying to get rid of it and it's pain in the... well, let's say it's challenging


----------



## aquabotanicae (Mar 11, 2018)

RIP said:


> I went ahead and just turned off the pump for now. There should be plenty of oxygen in the water so no need for circulation yet.


Frogbit?


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

aquabotanicae said:


> Frogbit?


I just ordered some! I love the look of floaters. I figure I'll just pull out duckweed whenever it get too dense and not worry when it goes down the overflow. We'll see if it can survive in the tiny sump without much light


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Well it's been a little over a month since planting. I've been doing weekly 1 gallon water changes since adding the fish. Things have grown in nice and slowly. So far only 1 of the original plants melted. I ordered some dwarf sag from ebay but sadly all melted within a couple of days. You can see them if you look closely. I was holding out hope that if the roots were good they'd come back. I'll give em another week and if nothing is happening I'll yank them.










Thanks for looking!


----------



## Michael (Jul 20, 2010)

The tank looks great!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Michael said:


> The tank looks great!


Thank you! I'd also like to note that I've had zero algae so far. Mineralizing the soil definitely worked.


----------



## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Nice tank and beautiful fish. He looks pretty satisfied with his home!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Well, I'm starting to have a snail problem. I've got probably 10 fully grown bladder snails and 1 pond snail. The pond snail has been munching my dwarf sag, crypts, and frogbit. There are currently 3 batches of bladder snails eggs on various plants. I went ahead and ordered a couple of assassin snails to take care of the problem!


----------



## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

In defense of the common snail, I've started a new thread.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

dwalstad said:


> In defense of the common snail, I've started a new thread.


Thank you! I posted in the new thread.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

I was able to successfully cancel my eBay order so we will just see if this balances itself out in time. Thanks for check in Diana! My bladder snails surely thank you.


----------



## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

Good show! I'm glad you were able to stop the order. 

Also, I seem to recall that Bettas will eat snails. Your Betta may appreciate a live, "on-tap" food source!


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Just a pic of Gandalf looking fat and happy.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Well, unfortunately I think Gandalf has dropsy. He's been lethargic and not eating for ~5 days and has now become swollen with "pine coning" scales. He's basically laying on the substrate gasping for air. I'm heart broken. Within a few days of him acting weird I noticed the pipe leading from the power head to the tank was filled with black stuff (mold?). I think it may have happened when I shut down the tank for a few days trapping water in the pipe. As soon as I saw this I disconnected his tank from this and did several large water changes (~50%). He looks like he could die at any time.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

Unfortunately he died during the night. It's sort of a relief as he looked so miserable the last few days. How long should I leave the tank fallow before getting another betta?


----------



## DutchMuch (Apr 12, 2017)

tbh this is a theory by me:

all "diseases" (im aware dropsy isnt scientifically categorized as a disease but you get my point) is caused by unhealthy water or environment. 

So i'd assess that.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

DutchMuch said:


> tbh this is a theory by me:
> 
> all "diseases" (im aware dropsy isnt scientifically categorized as a disease but you get my point) is caused by unhealthy water or environment.
> 
> So i'd assess that.


That was the 1st thing I did. I've been religious about weekly 1 gallon water changes. I found the moldy pipe/tube and fixed that issue (disconnected them and put in an air pump to circulate the water). I tested all categories and everything was fine:

gh 8
kh 6
ph 7.6
nitrate ~5
nitrite 0
ammonia 0

I imagine the moldy water could have stressed him out enough for his immune system to be compromised. Thank you for your response.


----------



## mistergreen (Mar 3, 2007)

That was a nice looking betta.
Food plays a role as well. Try not to feed freeze dried foods or bloodworms.
Quality dry foods and live worms and bugs are good for their health.


----------



## RIP (Jul 12, 2018)

mistergreen said:


> That was a nice looking betta.
> Food plays a role as well. Try not to feed freeze dried foods or bloodworms.
> Quality dry foods and live worms and bugs are good for their health.


You may be on to something there. I was feeding a rotation of high quality pellets, freeze dried bloodworms, and freeze dried brine shrimp. I picked that food mostly for convenience/shelf life. Also I'm pretty sure he was eating tiny snails in the tank. I wonder where I could get the live worms/bugs... My local area is pretty much reef specific when it comes to fish stores (other than the big box stores like Petsmart, Petco, etc).


----------



## mistergreen (Mar 3, 2007)

You can grow your own white worms and daphnia with a starter culture you can get here, aquabid, etc...
Fluval Bug bites is good. I think they make for small fish.

**
Also if you have extra cherry shrimps, throw them in with the betta. If he won't eat the bigger shrimps, he'll definitely will pick off the smaller ones.


----------



## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

He could have suffered from mycobacteriosis (Fish TB), a fairly common chronic disease. Swelling up like that is a typical symptom of this incurable bacterial disease. Main thing, I wouldn't blame yourself. He could have been diseased when you bought him or genetically fragile. Commercial breeders are far more interested in breeding for colors and fancy fins than disease resistance.


----------



## Stan510 (Dec 23, 2018)

I love my Bacopa. It loves LED light. I have mine in a 6" pot and it's making a nice dense column of bronze tinged leaves about 12". With the pot..it seems to just fill in more and more,not so much going very tall. I can see it making an elegant sweep all behind the rock to the left also.
A ton of mini plants to fill in the front.
My only sage advice is...stick to the smallest foliage plants overall. Resist the urge to drop in some fat leafed plant in a tank that small.


----------

