# DIY C02 w/ a larger tank



## Patron (Nov 22, 2011)

Right now I am setting up a DIY CO2 for my 125-gallon aquarium.

I plan to string 3 one-gallon jugs together and rotate them weekly so that at all times one will be just starting, one will be in it's prime and another will be on the decline. 1G is roughly 1-1/2 2L, so I'll use 1 tbsp yeast, 3 cups sugar and a little baking soda in each jug.

Diffusing discussions aside, will this have any tangible benefit to a tank of this size? Seems like 2L works wonders for 10-30 gallon aquariums. I'm kind of hoping that between 3 one-gallon jugs I'm able to get some benefit out of this.

If it matters, I have the output going through an air bubbler under the intake of a filter w/ a pre-filter sponge (most of the bubbles seem to hit the sponge and sit there). Also tonight if I have time I'm going to take hose to the other side of the aquarium and have connect another output going through a vertical spray bar that has an output spout at the bottom of it that has an input for an air hose.


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## gladiator008 (Oct 11, 2011)

I have a nutra fin plant system/canister im not usingx, i want to add a DIY system similar to yours for my 80 g let me know how it works out or il stay posted; the 2 gallon swap sounds like an economical good plan. Im taking notes


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## Patron (Nov 22, 2011)

CO2 production seems to be pretty rapid, I look in my DIY bubble counter (empty peanut butter jar w/ one long, one short hose, 1/2 filled with water) and bubbles fly out of it. 3-6 a second? 

Right now I have 3 1G and a 1-1/2L strung together. I'm probably going to switch to four 2.7L bottles as space wise it makes the most sense, plus my family goes through the juice I'll be using the bottles from constantly. They're square/rectangle shaped, too. 

Currently, I have it hooked on one end to a aquaclear50 powerhead. I dumped the air bubbler diffusion method. A AC30 would probably have worked, this one's pretty powerful and I not only have to set it on low-flow but I sponged up the input w/ a fluval edge sponge. You can also "reverse" the flow on these with a slider and I have it pushed up a little. Even with all that the tiny bubbles make it pretty well around the tank. When I had the powerhead on full-blast it basically vaporized the CO2, but the flow was too strong for my neons. I plan to get another powerhead and put it on the other side of the tank and just take a T-adaptor and split the CO2 both ways. 

It's been less than a week. Can't really tell a difference but I think they're looking greener. I had some val that was drooping and it's doing better. I also moved it, though. It was odd, b/c I had another val and it was propagating and shooting off new grass-like stalks. Not sure if it was me moving it or the extra CO2, but the one that was dying seems to be better.

Since you're taking notes: I've also started doing more with ferts. Previously, I didn't do anything, figuring the fish waste would work. Now, I dose 1 cap of Flourish every other day for micro-nutrients. Macro: I plan to make a DIY fert but until I get around to it, 1cap leaf zone every day (and I put in 6 caps initially on day one). That covers potassium and has a little more iron. I might get a phosphate fert too (prob flourish phosphate) if I can't make it to the hardware and pharmacy over the weekend for the supplies I'll need for the DIY.


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## NYREPS (Jun 18, 2011)

I say just go ahead and buy your self a co2 system you know how much yeast and sugar you have to buy for 125 gallon and the time wasted making them

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.139070,-77.700155


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## alysonpeaches (Jun 30, 2008)

Im running the Nutrafin one too at the moment with a pop bottle for an overflow valve/gas separator and I have noticed increased growth in all plants.

If you want to measure your growth, here is how I did it, and you could be a bit more scientific probably. I found some limnophilia sessiflora which was growing well beside the bubble ladder. When I first put it in it was 2/3 way up the ladder. I noticed after a few days it was above the ladder. After a couple of weeks I had to trim it. It occurred to me that I could have stuck a ruler on the side of the tank and measured this particular stem plant. Another plant, bacopa monnieri, had got very small leaves then stopped growing altogether. Since I have been CO2 - ing it has got 3 new pair of leaves which are a nicer brighter green than the rest. But most of all, the top of my tank has been completely taken over by Indian fern and I have had to move it on to two other tanks. My java moss shows lots of new bright green fingers too, after looking slightly dirty and dejected for ages.

I am using a drop checker, I havent had the lime green yet, just a sort of jade green, so its not a huge amount, but the plants have really taken off.

I am just wondering if a better diffuser is possible. This week I have used golden syrup instead of sugar and I am getting more bubbles. I only tried it because I wanted to use the syrup up as it was out of date. I get improved bubbling if I keep the reactor on top of the lights on the tank lid, obviously the heat helps. I have thought of adding another bottle, but to be honest as its working fine I will leave alone.


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## gladiator008 (Oct 11, 2011)

good stuff guys ...my dry fert is on the way and gonna try the Co 2 again


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

This is all nice and dandy.

But a DIY CO2 has a guaranteed problem - it will fluctuate sooner or later. Maybe the temperature in your house will drop a few degrees, maybe the yeast will decide to do something a little different for a few days, etc.

So everything will work just fine for a good while. Then one sunny day you will have an algae problem. In a large tank that is a nightmare.

To this instable situation you add fertilizers. In the water. This is the same thing all over again - it works for a good while till the day it messes up your tank.

Now you have 2 things leading to an algae problem. In a large tank.

Best advice was already given - get a CO2 bottle. $130 for everything. Will save you a lot of frustration.

Another, even better advice - go and figure out how the professionals of this hobby run their tanks. A lot of the information is on this part of the ADA's website:
http://www.aquajournal.net/qanda/index.html

All you need is patience to read and make sense of it all. Or you can chose to stay where you are.

--Nikolay


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## gladiator008 (Oct 11, 2011)

Just received my Dry Ferts and bought a 9 dollar bottle of yeast and prepping my soda bottles (5)... if niko is right my pleco wont be needing his algae waffers for awhile ... hopefully Il see more green than Wall Street


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## Silvering (Jun 10, 2011)

gladiator008 said:


> ... hopefully Il see more green than Wall Street


Just as long as it's not the evil, evil kind of algae that your pleco will turn up his nose at!


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## Patron (Nov 22, 2011)

While Nikolay is almost assuredly right, I actually enjoy the "DIY" aspect of this. 

I've also got duckweed filling the top of my tank. It's a pain in the rear, but it helps with nitrates and keeping the water cleaner for my fish. It also does wonders out-competing algae. I need to invest in some ottos and a SAE anyway at some point (some of my anubias have green on their leaves, which was there prior to any CO2).


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## gladiator008 (Oct 11, 2011)

Ok guys Day2 of my semi New and improved tank. Just checked my Nitrates and its 0 but my ph is 7.0 . I added a few gold fish since they create a lot of waste to fill the nitrate issue, should i be alarmed about the nitrate?


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## DeChaoOrdo (Jan 7, 2012)

On a larger tank DIY CO2 is problematic for 2 reasons. The first is the variance in CO2 output depending on temperature, and the second is VOCs produced alongside the CO2. If using the yeast method the amount of alcohol put into the tank alongside the CO2 is not insignificant and will affect more sensitive species(nasea is one in particular I've found doesn't deal with alcohol well). The first part is more significant, though. In a small tank the variance can be ignored because it will still maintain a decent amount of CO2ppm, but in a larger tank the difference in thermal fermentation rates makes it very difficult to maintain a consistent level of CO2 in the water, which is far more important than having a high amount of CO2. A tank with 15ppm CO2 on a consistent basis will grow demanding plants better than a tank that has 30+ppm for a few days then dips to 15ppm. Remember, algae adapts quicker than higher order plants.


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