# Excellent List Of Plants For Low Light Tanks



## Homer_Simpson

I am posting this for the benefit of members who may be wondering about best plants for a low light tank. This is an excellent list compiled James From Cali at: http://www.myfishtank.net/ I posted it in the general aquarium plant discussion forum as there is no low light specific forum. Hopefully, some members may find it helpful.

"Plants Ideal For Low Light/Low Tech Aquaria
Some people may be wondering what plants do well in a Low Light setup. I used to be the same way(and still am sometimes) and now I am wanting to make a list of what is appropriate for this kind of tank. Any one wanting to add to the list please go ahead. List Common and Scientific name please.

Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus
Windelov Java Fern, Windelov Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'
Narrow Leaf Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
Java Moss - Vesicularia dubyana
Green Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma
*Sunset Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
Ceylon Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Ceylon'
Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala rotundifolia
Rotala Rotundifolia sp. Green - Rotala rotundifolia sp. 'Green'
Rotala Indica - Rotala indica
Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
Moneywort, Water Hyssop - Bocapa monnieri
Brazilian Pennywort, Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Crypt Wendtii - Cryptocoryne wendtii
Crypt Balansae - Cryptocoryne Balansae
Pygmy Crypt - Cryptocoryne pygmaea
Guppy Grass - Najas guadalupensis
Anubias barteri - Anubias barteri v. barteri
Anubias barteri 'marble' - Anubias barteri 'marble'
Anubias barteri v. 'glabra' - Anubias barteri v. 'glabra'
Anubias nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
Coffee leaf anubias - Anubias barteri v. 'coffeefolia'
Crypt retrospiralis - Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
Crypt spiralis - Cryptocoryne spiralis
Golden nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana golden'
Narrow leaf nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana narrow leaf'
Petite nana - Anubias barteri v. nana 'petite'
Philippine Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Philippine'
Red Java fern - Microsorum pteropus "red"
Crypt Becketii - Cryptcoryne becketii
Pelia - Monosolenium tenerum
Waterwheel Plant - Aldrovanda vesiculosa
Bacopa - Bacopa caroliniana
African Water Fern - Bolbitis heudelotii
Hornwort - Ceratophyllum submersum
Crypt Aponogetifolia - Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia
Micro Crypt - Cryptocoryne petchii
Tropica Sword - Echinodorus parviflorus 'Tropica'
Downoi - Pogostemon helferi

*Do not ned high light to attain pink color. Dosing Iron can bring out this color. I have learned this from experience.

Thank you,
James"
__________________


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## capn_kirkl

thanks for compiling the shopping list for me, I'll be done with college soon, and hopefully making enough money to go plant shopping. I also enjoyed the Barr - Walstead comparison. thanks for the input. I cant wait until im done with homework and can devote free time to comparison experiments. Via the weblinks.


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## Homer_Simpson

capn_kirkl said:


> thanks for compiling the shopping list for me, I'll be done with college soon, and hopefully making enough money to go plant shopping. I also enjoyed the Barr - Walstead comparison. thanks for the input. I cant wait until im done with homework and can devote free time to comparison experiments. Via the weblinks.


Thanks  and you are welcome. All credit for the list to James of course as he compiled it. I am still learning. In this hobby I sometimes come across so much conflicting and contradictory information about what to do and what not to do. For instance, there are still people who say never use soil as a substrate and claim to have had nothing but failure doing so, while others who have had planted tanks with a soil substrate(i.e, Diana Walstead, Natural Planted Tank followers) claim that they have set up such tanks for years and their plants and fish are doing great. I just decided that the best way to cut through all the c*ap was just to experiment for myself and see what works for me. The only regret that I have is that I don't have enough room in my home to set up more tanks as there are so many other experiments that I would like to run to satsify my curiousity and hopefully share something that could prove useful/helpful to others on the forum.


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## aquabillpers

A great list and a keeper! Thanks for posting it.

One minor point: I don't think that Rotala sp. are low light plants. They might grow some in a low light environment, but APC rates them as having medium light requirements and Tropica rates most of them as medium to high.

Bill


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## bastalker

aquabillpers said:


> One minor point: I don't think that Rotala sp. are low light plants. They might grow some in a low light environment, but APC rates them as having medium light requirements and Tropica rates most of them as medium to high.


Depends on how much c02 yer pumping into the tank. :wink:


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## gf225

bastalker said:


> Depends on how much c02 yer pumping into the tank. :wink:


Very good point.

Plants will 'cope' with much lower lighting if CO2 and other nutrients are higher.

Nice list though.


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## aquabillpers

gf225 said:


> Very good point.
> 
> Plants will 'cope' with much lower lighting if CO2 and other nutrients are higher.
> 
> Nice list though.


LOL. Right! I just equated low light with no CO2 which, of course, is incorrect.

But I do suspect that most low light people do not inject CO2, and rotala will not grow well for them, so maybe I should get half a point anyway? <g>

Bill


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## James From Cali

Hi everyone, Im the one that created this list origonally on MFT.net. Glad to see it spread around. This is where I beg to differ. I had rotala grow great in just 15 watts over 10g's and dosing iron caused red to come out in them. The tank also didnt have CO2. I have actually tried most of those plants and they all did very well in my tank with just 15 watts! The only one I find debatable on that list is the Downoi. I will post the new list right now with a few more plants that others found work well in their tanks with low light.

Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus
Windelov Java Fern, Windelov Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'
Narrow Leaf Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
Java Moss - Vesicularia dubyana
Green Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma
*Sunset Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
Ceylon Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Ceylon'
*Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala rotundifolia
Rotala Rotundifolia sp. Green - Rotala rotundifolia sp. 'Green'
*Rotala Indica - Rotala indica
Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
*Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
Moneywort, Water Hyssop - Bocapa monnieri
Brazilian Pennywort, Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Crypt Wendtii - Cryptocoryne wendtii
Crypt Balansae - Cryptocoryne Balansae
Pygmy Crypt - Cryptocoryne pygmaea
Guppy Grass - Najas guadalupensis
Anubias barteri - Anubias barteri v. barteri
Anubias barteri 'marble' - Anubias barteri 'marble'
Anubias barteri v. 'glabra' - Anubias barteri v. 'glabra'
Anubias nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
Coffee leaf anubias - Anubias barteri v. 'coffeefolia'
Crypt retrospiralis - Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
Crypt spiralis - Cryptocoryne spiralis
Golden nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana golden'
Narrow leaf nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana narrow leaf'
Petite nana - Anubias barteri v. nana 'petite'
Philippine Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Philippine'
Red Java fern - Microsorum pteropus "red"
Crypt Becketii - Cryptcoryne becketii
Pelia - Monosolenium tenerum
Waterwheel Plant - Aldrovanda vesiculosa
Bacopa - Bacopa caroliniana
African Water Fern - Bolbitis heudelotii
Crypt Aponogetifolia - Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia
Micro Crypt - Cryptocoryne petchii
Tropica Sword - Echinodorus parviflorus 'Tropica'
**Downoi - Pogostemon helferi
***Lotus- Nymphaea pubescens 
American Waterweed- Elodea canadensis
Vallisneria natans 
Water Celery- Vallisneria americana 
Vallisneria asiatica 
Red Ludwigia- Ludwigia repens
Marimo Ball- Aegagropila linnaei
HC- Hemianthus callitrichoides 
Dwarf Sag- Sagittaria subulata 
Crinum calimistratum
Water Pennywort- Hydrocotyle ranunculoides

*Do not ned high light to attain pink color. Dosing Iron can bring out this color. I have learned this from experience.
**Debatable
***This is the plant from the bulb pack you get from petsmart. It is not Nyphaea lotus like many believe.


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## James From Cali

Homer_Simpson said:


> Thanks  and you are welcome. All credit for the list to James of course as he compiled it. I am still learning. In this hobby I sometimes come across so much conflicting and contradictory information about what to do and what not to do. For instance, there are still people who say never use soil as a substrate and claim to have had nothing but failure doing so, while others who have had planted tanks with a soil substrate(i.e, Diana Walstead, Natural Planted Tank followers) claim that they have set up such tanks for years and their plants and fish are doing great. I just decided that the best way to cut through all the c*ap was just to experiment for myself and see what works for me. The only regret that I have is that I don't have enough room in my home to set up more tanks as there are so many other experiments that I would like to run to satsify my curiousity and hopefully share something that could prove useful/helpful to others on the forum.


I have 2 tanks(1 not up and the other in the works of redoing). I just went through and found what plants work best for my set up. And the major factor was lighting and alot of plants did very well when least expected too.


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## Homer_Simpson

James From Cali said:


> I have 2 tanks(1 not up and the other in the works of redoing). I just went through and found what plants work best for my set up. And the major factor was lighting and alot of plants did very well when least expected too.


Thanks, for sharing that. That makes a lot of sense. I found that I ran into problems, regardless of light, c02 injection, water column ferts(EI or PPS Pro made no difference), substrate, types of plants(low light/high light), excel use/non-excel use,  when I pushed photo-period over 8 hours and lighting intensity over 2.5 watts/gallon. We are talking major algae bloom in all cases where photo-period exceeded 8 hours and light intensity exceeded 2.5 watts/gallon(equally good results were obtained with 2.0 watts/per gallon with all other things being equal). This happened even in tanks that were jam packed with plants, which kind of surprised me.


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## James From Cali

Homer_Simpson said:


> Thanks, for sharing that. That makes a lot of sense. I found that I ran into problems, regardless of light, c02 injection, water column ferts(EI or PPS Pro made no difference), substrate, types of plants(low light/high light), excel use/non-excel use, when I pushed photo-period over 8 hours and lighting intensity over 2.5 watts/gallon. We are talking major algae bloom in all cases where photo-period exceeded 8 hours and light intensity exceeded 2.5 watts/gallon(equally good results were obtained with 2.0 watts/per gallon with all other things being equal). This happened even in tanks that were jam packed with plants, which kind of surprised me.


I been reading up and when your plants start to close up shut the lights off. They had their photoperiod. The rest of the light goes to the algae.


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## Homer_Simpson

James From Cali said:


> I been reading up and when your plants start to close up shut the lights off. They had their photoperiod. The rest of the light goes to the algae.


Cool  Learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing that;I would have never guessed.


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## AQUAMX

Hi James

Your list has been causing a great conversation point on my local forum in Australia.

I would like to ask a few questions if thats ok.

Can you tell me what exactly what you call low light/low tech?

A low tech tank to me has always meant low light (1wpg), diy substrate and perhaps using fish as a means of fertiliser. Perhaps its borderline, but d.i.y co2 may be added into this. Although d.i.y or pressurised still equates to high tech in my opinion. Adding co2 is adding co2.

Doesnt cranking up co2 and adding more ferts such as iron take you out of the low tech area and into high tech?

Many of the plants on this list, while can be grown in low light, will not present the form people are expecting. For example downoi/little star, while can be grown under low light will show its true leggy form and become unsightly. Higher intensity light is needed to bring out the compact growth that people are used to seeing pictures of on the internet. So while it can be grown in low light i would think it should still be recomended as a high light plant.

HC has also been added to your list. Is this really a low light/low tech plant? From personal experience i have grown it in lower light shrimp tanks but with minimul success. Again, perhaps its not a plant that should be offered on this list. New comers to keeping plants will only find themselves being dissapointed.

Finally, i would like to ask about Iron being used to bring out the red in plants. Is it simply a case of adding iron to do this? Can a lack of nitrates and phosphates also bring out red in plants.Can sunset hygro or Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig' attain their true color and potential in low tech tanks simply by adding iron? 
I beleive to get the proper look ( like you seen in magazines) they need high-very high light, a correct balance of nutrients, temp and co2. Hardly low tech. But sure, you can grow it.

In the case of the H. polysperma is it the intense light that brings out the veining or the iron? Many will agree, this is one of the most beautiful plants of all time.

I think lists compiled by plant growers are great, especially for people getting into the hobby. It takes alot of time to grow plants and learn these things. I try to spend alot of time with a good local grower here in Oz. Ive been at it now for 15 years and feel i have barely scraped the surface.

If i were new to the hobby and came across your list, i would be so excited thinking i could grow almost anything. Much of what i have read through plant libraries/lists such as tropica and books from authors such as kasselmann contradict what you are saying with some of the plants. As does my own experience.

But then, i think the meaning of low tech has dramatically changed. Your idea of low tech may be 2wpg and d.i.y co2 including a fert regime. But this is not low tech, at least not to me. Perhaps it is me who is out of touch. I may need a refresher course on whats what.

When i have some time i would love to add some plants to your list, but for me its time for work. I hope you take no offence to my opinions.

H. Polysperma


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## James From Cali

AQUAMX said:


> Hi James
> 
> Your list has been causing a great conversation point on my local forum in Australia.
> 
> I would like to ask a few questions if thats ok.
> 
> Can you tell me what exactly what you call low light/low tech?
> 
> A low tech tank to me has always meant low light (1wpg), diy substrate and perhaps using fish as a means of fertiliser. Perhaps its borderline, but d.i.y co2 may be added into this. Although d.i.y or pressurised still equates to high tech in my opinion. Adding co2 is adding co2.
> 
> Doesnt cranking up co2 and adding more ferts such as iron take you out of the low tech area and into high tech?
> 
> Many of the plants on this list, while can be grown in low light, will not present the form people are expecting. For example downoi/little star, while can be grown under low light will show its true leggy form and become unsightly. Higher intensity light is needed to bring out the compact growth that people are used to seeing pictures of on the internet. So while it can be grown in low light i would think it should still be recomended as a high light plant.
> 
> HC has also been added to your list. Is this really a low light/low tech plant? From personal experience i have grown it in lower light shrimp tanks but with minimul success. Again, perhaps its not a plant that should be offered on this list. New comers to keeping plants will only find themselves being dissapointed.
> 
> Finally, i would like to ask about Iron being used to bring out the red in plants. Is it simply a case of adding iron to do this? Can a lack of nitrates and phosphates also bring out red in plants.Can sunset hygro or Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig' attain their true color and potential in low tech tanks simply by adding iron?
> I beleive to get the proper look ( like you seen in magazines) they need high-very high light, a correct balance of nutrients, temp and co2. Hardly low tech. But sure, you can grow it.
> 
> In the case of the H. polysperma is it the intense light that brings out the veining or the iron? Many will agree, this is one of the most beautiful plants of all time.
> 
> I think lists compiled by plant growers are great, especially for people getting into the hobby. It takes alot of time to grow plants and learn these things. I try to spend alot of time with a good local grower here in Oz. Ive been at it now for 15 years and feel i have barely scraped the surface.
> 
> If i were new to the hobby and came across your list, i would be so excited thinking i could grow almost anything. Much of what i have read through plant libraries/lists such as tropica and books from authors such as kasselmann contradict what you are saying with some of the plants. As does my own experience.
> 
> But then, i think the meaning of low tech has dramatically changed. Your idea of low tech may be 2wpg and d.i.y co2 including a fert regime. But this is not low tech, at least not to me. Perhaps it is me who is out of touch. I may need a refresher course on whats what.
> 
> When i have some time i would love to add some plants to your list, but for me its time for work. I hope you take no offence to my opinions.
> 
> H. Polysperma


Low light is anything under 2wpg. It causes for slower growth of many plants and lowers the needs for CO2 and other nutrients. High Tech IMO would be where you have amzing equipment that runs up your bill and you have reactors, fans, valves, and the works. Low tech can be none of that. Adding nutrients to a take with plants is still needed. Fish produce MAcros(Nitrates mainly) where I add Micros(Trace elements) to the tank. Adding CO2 is not nessecary but adding DIY CO2 does not make it high tech. It would be insufficient on a high Tech set up IMO since it does not produce enough CO2 to support every plant in a sufficient matter. Alot of these plants may start to die off in the beggining but with patience they will ocme back. As long as they are producing the roots the plants do well. I have even got some of these plant on the list from people who have grown them in lowlight. Almost all of those plants I have personally grown under a 15 watt bulb in a 10g aquarium with a light fish bioload and no co2 and just weekly Flourish addition. Most sites grow these plants under these conditions after seeing it 1 day in a different lighting setup. Once they see a plant cannot live a day in low light they move it on into a moderate light tank and they say well they need medium high light. But if you really do provide light, some form of fertilizer then your plants will come back. That has always been my experience. I go against everything a site says because that is your starting point. They tell you that you need this much light but in reality you can definitely go lower.

Me personally I have 1.5 wpg on my tank, no co2, and no "real" fertilizing regimine. My lotus plant is growing great as well as my onion plant. I am in the works of adding more plants as I am in the middle of a total revamp of the tank. Please add plants all you want. This list was created to help people so they didnt go through hell to find the right plants. Although the plants will not show the form that they do in higher light tanks they do show nicely. They are all wonderful in any way and its personal preference. I found with Nitrates around 5ppm(which I keep mine out and plants seem to do well with higher fish load) and Iron being added the pinks/reds come out on plants greatly. Low Nitrates + High Iron = Pink Plants. I have grown Rotala rotundifolia, Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig', Ludwigia sp. and all have gotten red in my aquarium with low light, no co2, Iron addition, low nitrates. On the H. polysperma I got veins and everything. It came out just like in a high light tank.

Its all about the balances in your tank. Light, nutrients, CO2. You still need the balance and no matter what lighting you have the plants will look amazing. Now this was in my experience as well as many others and I love the fact that you brought these questions up as I could give an idea of how I created the list. I enjoy reading comments like yours because we all have something to learn. And please feel free to add to the list and if you can find something more debatable on my list I will definitely do more research on this and see what I can find and correct it. Being only 17 I learned from many older more knowledgeable people and I just tweaed what they said and found my own thing. And what I found is that those guidlines can be followed but with patince they can be ignored.


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## Homer_Simpson

Aquamx, I know you directed your questions to James, and I hope that you don't mind me adding my 2 cents worth. Although I am still relatively new and still learning and experimenting, I have taken both the high tech and low tech methods for a test drive. While I cannot speak for other peoples' experiences, for me high tech is like walking a tight rope and I found it far more difficult to address nutrient deficiencies, and ensure appropriate c02 levels, and constantly tweaking fert dosing, not to mention keeping up with weekly water changes to maintain balance and stability and prevent algae formation. Like others when balance and stability in the high tech tank were dirupted, it meant tons of work to fix the issue and attempting expensive fixes like Fluorish Excel. While I am not saying that stability and balance are not important in a low tech tank, I have just found it much easier and less effort to maintain balance and stability in a low tech tank.

I think that masters such as Tom Barr best sum up why a low tech tank would be desireable as per this link. 
http://www.barrreport.com/articles/433-non-co2-methods.html

It really boils down to how much time, effort, and money someone wants to invest in this hobby. Going high tech is a lot more expensive over the long and short term than going low tech with low tech plants. And again from my experience, it takes much less effort to maintain a low tech vs high tech tank. But then, I guess everyone's goals are different so I cannot speak for everyone.

As far as form and growth are considered, I guess it is really a trade off. Personally, I would gladly take slower plant growth and slightly faded colors if it means better algae control, less money invested, and less effort looking after the tank. For me Diana Walstead best said it when she stated: "After all this is a hobby not a job."


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## James From Cali

Homer_Simpson said:


> Aquamx, I know you directed your questions to James, and I hope that you don't mind me adding my 2 cents worth. Although I am still relatively new and still learning and experimenting, I have taken both the high tech and low tech methods for a test drive. While I cannot speak for other peoples' experiences, for me high tech is like walking a tight rope and I found it far more difficult to address nutrient deficiencies, and ensure appropriate c02 levels, and constantly tweaking fert dosing, not to mention keeping up with weekly water changes to maintain balance and stability and prevent algae formation. Like others when balance and stability in the high tech tank were dirupted, it meant tons of work to fix the issue and attempting expensive fixes like Fluorish Excel. While I am not saying that stability and balance are not important in a low tech tank, I have just found it much easier and less effort to maintain balance and stability in a low tech tank.
> 
> I think that masters such as Tom Barr best sum up why a low tech tank would be desireable as per this link.
> http://www.barrreport.com/articles/433-non-co2-methods.html
> 
> It really boils down to how much time, effort, and money someone wants to invest in this hobby. Going high tech is a lot more expensive over the long and short term than going low tech with low tech plants. And again from my experience, it takes much less effort to maintain a low tech vs high tech tank. But then, I guess everyone's goals are different so I cannot speak for everyone.
> 
> As far as form and growth are considered, I guess it is really a trade off. Personally, I would gladly take slower plant growth and slightly faded colors if it means better algae control, less money invested, and less effort looking after the tank. For me Diana Walstead best said it when she stated: "After all this is a hobby not a job."


I agree with you on everything but "...have just found it much easier and less effort to maintain balance and stability in a low tech tank.". In a low tech tank it is very easy for things to get out of hand if you do not keep things stable and balanced. Wether it is high tech or low tech stability and balance is the key to a successful planted aquariums. PBS is what I say when it comes to Planted Aquariums, Patience-Balance-Stability.


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## AQUAMX

Hi guys and thank you both for your responses.

What you yourselves have discovered is a balance, from there you have grown plants. But it has still taken considerable time to find that balance. But have shown it can be done, or said it can be done.

I also keep low tech and high tech. Forgive me if i lead you to beleive i am just pro high tech. I love both and use advanced co2 aswell as diy. Everything from single low tech 4x2x2 plant tanks to high tech 30 tank sump systems running co2.

I applaud you for creating such a list, i just dont think the average entry level aquarist will be able to grow some of those plants in their low tech setup without considerable experience. Of course it happens.

Homer, saying you would glady take faded colors and slower growth to avoid algea suggests its harder to maintain a plant tank with higher light. As James pointed out its about balance and control. I personally dont think it is any different it just has a different balance point.

Anyway, dont want to take this off track. I wasnt sure it was a thread to say low tech is better. I just wanted to point out that adding things like HC to a list that you say is for low tech could be misleading. If average jo reads it he will go yes i can add HC to my goldfish bowl. Not only will he fail but he will be put off.

Suggesting that we can grow HC in 1.5wpg, no co2 and a little ferts is a stretch for me. But im glad it has worked for you.

We certainly dont want our hobby to feel like a job, but some thrive in the work it takes to create a CAU type masterpiece. Infact many aspire to it. Those tanks, i imagine would be hard to create in a low tech world. But at the end of the day its our own decision.

We can relax and enjoy low tech, or work hard to create a competition style masterpiece.

Either way, you get nothing for nothing.

Good work guys.


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## BryceM

I like the idea of producing a list of low-light plants, and I agree with much of what has been said concerning the definition of "low tech". It is absolutley essential to realize that people have very different goals and approaches to almost all things "planted". Keep a couple of things in mind here. Simply put, the exact plant species that qualify for a "low light" list depend greatly on one's definition of "low light". 1 wpg over a 10g tank is different than 1 wpg over a 90g tank. CF is different than T-8, T-5, etc. Broad, generalized statements such as "low light is anything less than 2wpg" do not allow for commonly encountered equipment variations.

I think that instead of producing a bulk list in no particular order, it might be more useful to rank the plants according to their adaptability to low light conditions.

It's pretty safe to say that almost all Anubias, Ferns, mosses, and Crypts will do well in low light. Even in low light these plants will attain the same traits that they will exhibit in high light conditions. Growth will be healthy and full, but not rapid. Once you add stem plants such as the easeir Bacopas, Hygros, and Hydrocotyles to the list you'll need a little more light to keep them in reasonable form. I really wouldn't recommend P. helferi (Downoi) or HC for the average low-light setup, even with CO2.

There are a few important groups of plants that are mostly absent from you list that can also do quite well in lower-light conditions. These include large numbers of Echinodorus (sword plants), Vallisneria, and many of the easier Aponogeton species (not madagasgariensis). Still, these would need a bit more light than the Anubias, Crypts, and ferns to produce healthy growth.


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## James From Cali

Made good points. What Im going to do is add the minimum low light level. So It would be in this form "Common Name-Scientific Name-Light level". HC was actually brought to me by someone else. So Im going to ask for specific statistics of the tank and a picture.


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## James From Cali

I been reading up and found some sites that concur with low light levels:

HC
http://www.tropica.com/productcard_1.asp?id=048B
This site has other people, including Tom Barr, who have grown HC in low light levels.
http://www.barrreport.com/general-plant-topics/3644-h-callitrichoides-light-demand.html
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/tr/Hemianthuscallitrichoides.php

They do believe that lighting is not as important as CO2 levels. HC can be grown in a low light tank with CO2. That may be the plant that requires more work.


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## BryceM

James From Cali said:


> What Im going to do is add the minimum low light level. So It would be in this form "Common Name-Scientific Name-Light level"


I think the light levels listed for those species included in the Plant Finder are pretty accurate, but it would be interesting to see if people agree or disagree.


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## Homer_Simpson

AQUAMX said:


> ...
> We certainly dont want our hobby to feel like a job, but some thrive in the work it takes to create a CAU type masterpiece. Infact many aspire to it. Those tanks, *i imagine would be hard to create in a low tech world.* But at the end of the day its our own decision.
> 
> We can relax and enjoy low tech, or work hard to create a competition style masterpiece.
> 
> Either way, you get nothing for nothing.
> 
> Good work guys.


You make some excellent points and I don't necessarily disagree with a lot of things that you have stated. I apologize if my post came across the wrong way or offended you in any way. Keep in mind that sufficient beautiful low light plants exist to create a beautifully scaped tank(Lol, not by me as my aquascaping skills totally suck). I have seen some excellent low tech beautifully aquascaped tanks with nothing more than a collection of low light plants, many of which are identified in James list. What I would love to see is for John(APC Admin) to give some thought to creating seperate planted tank competition categories involving low light and natural planted tanks. It would be interested to compare winners from all categories: High Tech, Low Light Low Tech, and Low Tech Natural Planted tank.

These are leaves from my apongenton bulb. I have to prune the leaves weekly as they would otherwise totally choke out my tank. This bulb was not appropriate for the tank but I had no idea what the bulb would do until I threw it into the tank. The leaves are from a bulb in a 5 gallon low tech tank with only 10 watts(as low light as you are going to get for a 5 gallon) coralife colarmax 6500K compact fluorescent in the canopy. If someone could identify what type of apongenton that these leaves are from, I would definitely say that the apongenton bulb would make a good addition to the low light plant list.


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## James From Cali

To me it looks like Aponogeton Ulvaceous if it comes from the plant pack. If so then it deffinitely is.


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## Homer_Simpson

James From Cali said:


> To me it looks like Aponogeton Ulvaceous if it comes from the plant pack. If so then it deffinitely is.


Thanks James  That plant is definitely for a 55 gallon + tank if you don't want to prune as much and enjoy the beauty that the leaves would add to the tank if allowed to grow out. Not for anything smaller.

Interesting info on Apongenton Ulvaceous - it can grow into a show plant in 25 days.
http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Plant, Aponogeton ulvaceous.htm


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## James From Cali

Yes I had a 10g with 2 in there and they threw up flower stalks frequently. Didnt grow so large though.


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## James From Cali

guaiac_boy said:


> I think the light levels listed for those species included in the Plant Finder are pretty accurate, but it would be interesting to see if people agree or disagree.


Well they would be under 2wpg in my list. I think thats where debates will start.


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## gf225

aquabillpers said:


> But I do suspect that most low light people do not inject CO2


Not me.

1wpg T8, 30ppm CO2 mist. NPK + trace daily.

No algae.


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## James From Cali

Amazing looking tank gf225. How many gallons and what plants?

I asked someone from another site about HC in lowlight. Here is the responce I got:

"Yes..well I think it's low light. It's a 13 wt single T-5 6500K desk lamp, over a 10" X10" X 10" cube, so 4.3 gal. Substrate is generic peat and compost potting soil, topped with fine gravel & white sand. I use Seachem ferts, according to their chart...scaled down for my tank. Minus the trace. Recently I have been adding mostly just excel. The tank has 1 dwarf puffer & two orange shrimp. It gets a little sunshine in the a.m., but not for long.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er1/112501.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er1/112504.jpg
older pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ler1/011-1.jpg

I think it looks great! I don't want plants to grow too fast obviously, since my tanks are so small. I started out with one little pot, and it has spread all over. I cannot keep it in my second tank, because I tried it and my spixi snail ate it..three times.

I did just change my lighting today. But only because I don't like the PC's over the tank on the right...plus it looked pretty ghetto. Today I received a Nova Extreme T-5 fw fixture. I am putting both tanks up on the desk, and running it across them. We'll see how things change, or what."

That is just a bit over 2 wpg. Me I am going to try HC in 1.5 wpg and with DIY CO2, High Fish Load, and supplemental flourish.


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## BryceM

George has shared a fabulous example of something that many people don't appreciate. If you can only do one thing for your tank, go with supplemental CO2. A low light setup with CO2 addition can be remarkably stable and produce some gorgeous plant growth. Algae issues are minimal. You won't be able to toss in a few stems of P. stellatus, but honestly there are plenty of others to choose from. One of the best tanks I've ever seen was done with nothing but various crypt species. What impressed me most was the patience it took to realize the final result.


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## AQUAMX

Absolutely a fabulous example there George. Are there Crinums in that tank?

All good and valid points from everyone. I certainly took no offence in any of it.

Cheers


----------



## James From Cali

*FERNS & MOSSES*
Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus
Windelov Java Fern, Windelov Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'
Narrow Leaf Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
Java Moss - Taxiphyllum barbieri
Taiwan Moss - Taxiphyllum sp.
Flame Moss - Taxiphyllum alternans
Philippine Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Philippine'
Red Java fern - Microsorum pteropus "red"
Pelia - Monosolenium tenerum
African Water Fern - Bolbitis heudelotii
Marimo Ball- Aegagropila linnaei
Riccia - Riccia fluitans 
Singapore Moss - Vesicularia dubyana
Christmas Moss - Vesicularia montagnei
Erect Moss - Vesicularia reticulata
Pheonix Moss - Fissidens fontanus
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides

*STEM PLANTS*
Green Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma
Sunset Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
Ceylon Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Ceylon'
Giant Hygro - Hygrophila corymbosa
Water Wisteria - Hygrophila difformis
Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala rotundifolia
Rotala Rotundifolia sp. Green - Rotala rotundifolia sp. 'Green'
Rotala Indica - Rotala indica
Moneywort, Water Hyssop - Bocapa monnieri
Bacopa - Bacopa caroliniana
Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Water Pennywort - Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
Guppy Grass - Najas guadalupensis
Waterwheel Plant - Aldrovanda vesiculosa
Downoi - Pogostemon helferi
American Waterweed- Elodea canadensis
Red Ludwigia- Ludwigia repens
HC- Hemianthus callitrichoides 
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides

*FLOATERS*
Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Water Pennywort- Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
Anacharis - Egeria densa
Riccia - Riccia fluitans 
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides

*CRYPTOCORYNE*
Crypt Wendtii - Cryptocoryne wendtii
Crypt Balansae - Cryptocoryne Balansae
Pygmy Crypt - Cryptocoryne pygmaea
Crypt retrospiralis - Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
Crypt spiralis - Cryptocoryne spiralis
Crypt Becketii - Cryptcoryne becketii
Crypt Aponogetifolia - Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia
Micro Crypt - Cryptocoryne petchii
Crypt Affinis - Cryptocoryne affinis
Crypt Lutea - Cryptocoryne lutea
Crypt Walkeri - Cryptocoryne walkeri
Crypt Willisi - Cryptocoryne willisi

*ANUBIAS*
Anubias barteri - Anubias barteri v. barteri
Anubias barteri 'marble' - Anubias barteri 'marble'
Anubias barteri v. 'glabra' - Anubias barteri v. 'glabra'
Anubias nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
Coffee leaf anubias - Anubias barteri v. 'coffeefolia'
Golden nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana golden'
Narrow leaf nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana narrow leaf'
Petite nana - Anubias barteri v. nana 'petite'

*SWORD PLANTS*
Tropica Sword - Echinodorus parviflorus 'Tropica'
Amazon Sword - Echinodorus amazonicus
Melon Sword - Echinodorus osiris
Ruffle Sword - Echinodorus major
Pygmy Chain Sword - Echnodorus tennelus

*LILY'S*
Lotus- Nymphaea pubescens

*GRASSES*
Vallisneria natans 
Water Celery- Vallisneria americana 
Vallisneria asiatica 
Vallisneria rubra
Corkscrew Val - Vallisneria tortifolia
Dwarf Sag- Sagittaria subulata 
Crinum calimistratum
Micro Sword - Lilaeopsis braziliensis

*APONOGETONS*
Aponogeton ulvaceous
Aponogeton bouvianus 
Aponogeton crispus
Aponogeton elongatus
Aponogeton undulatus

 thanks.


----------



## James From Cali

Added Onion Plant, Round Pellia, Pellia, Mini Pellia

*FERNS & MOSSES*
Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus
Windelov Java Fern, Windelov Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'
Narrow Leaf Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
Java Moss - Taxiphyllum barbieri
Taiwan Moss - Taxiphyllum sp.
Flame Moss - Taxiphyllum alternans
Philippine Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Philippine'
Red Java fern - Microsorum pteropus "red"
Pelia - Monosolenium tenerum
African Water Fern - Bolbitis heudelotii
Marimo Ball- Aegagropila linnaei
Riccia - Riccia fluitans 
Singapore Moss - Vesicularia dubyana
Christmas Moss - Vesicularia montagnei
Erect Moss - Vesicularia reticulata
Pheonix Moss - Fissidens fontanus
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
Round Pellia - Süßwassertang
Pellia - Monosolenium tenerum 
Mini Pellia - Riccardia chamedryfolia

*STEM PLANTS*
Green Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma
Sunset Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
Ceylon Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Ceylon'
Giant Hygro - Hygrophila corymbosa
Water Wisteria - Hygrophila difformis
Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala rotundifolia
Rotala Rotundifolia sp. Green - Rotala rotundifolia sp. 'Green'
Rotala Indica - Rotala indica
Moneywort, Water Hyssop - Bocapa monnieri
Bacopa - Bacopa caroliniana
Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Water Pennywort - Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
Guppy Grass - Najas guadalupensis
Waterwheel Plant - Aldrovanda vesiculosa
Downoi - Pogostemon helferi
American Waterweed- Elodea canadensis
Red Ludwigia- Ludwigia repens
HC- Hemianthus callitrichoides 
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides

*FLOATERS*
Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Water Pennywort- Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
Anacharis - Egeria densa
Riccia - Riccia fluitans 
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides

*CRYPTOCORYNE*
Crypt Wendtii - Cryptocoryne wendtii
Crypt Balansae - Cryptocoryne Balansae
Pygmy Crypt - Cryptocoryne pygmaea
Crypt retrospiralis - Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
Crypt spiralis - Cryptocoryne spiralis
Crypt Becketii - Cryptcoryne becketii
Crypt Aponogetifolia - Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia
Micro Crypt - Cryptocoryne petchii
Crypt Affinis - Cryptocoryne affinis
Crypt Lutea - Cryptocoryne lutea
Crypt Walkeri - Cryptocoryne walkeri
Crypt Willisi - Cryptocoryne willisi

*ANUBIAS*
Anubias barteri - Anubias barteri v. barteri
Anubias barteri 'marble' - Anubias barteri 'marble'
Anubias barteri v. 'glabra' - Anubias barteri v. 'glabra'
Anubias nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
Coffee leaf anubias - Anubias barteri v. 'coffeefolia'
Golden nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana golden'
Narrow leaf nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana narrow leaf'
Petite nana - Anubias barteri v. nana 'petite'

*SWORD PLANTS*
Tropica Sword - Echinodorus parviflorus 'Tropica'
Amazon Sword - Echinodorus amazonicus
Melon Sword - Echinodorus osiris
Ruffle Sword - Echinodorus major
Pygmy Chain Sword - Echnodorus tennelus

*LILY'S*
Lotus- Nymphaea pubescens

*GRASSES*
Vallisneria natans 
Water Celery- Vallisneria americana 
Vallisneria asiatica 
Vallisneria rubra
Corkscrew Val - Vallisneria tortifolia
Dwarf Sag- Sagittaria subulata 
Crinum calimistratum
Onion Plant - Crinum thaianum
Micro Sword - Lilaeopsis braziliensis

*APONOGETONS*
Aponogeton ulvaceous
Aponogeton bouvianus 
Aponogeton crispus
Aponogeton elongatus
Aponogeton undulatus

*CLOVERS*
Water Clover - Mariselia minuta
Marsilea hirsuta

 thanks.


----------



## James From Cali

Added Water clover and Mariselia hirsuta


----------



## James From Cali

New additions:

FERNS & MOSSES
Marimo Ball- Aegagropila linnaei
African Water Fern - Bolbitis heudelotii
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
Pheonix Moss - Fissidens fontanus
Zipper Moss - Fissidens zippelianus
Willow Moss - Fontinalis antipyretica
Philippine Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Philippine'
Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus
Red Java fern - Microsorum pteropus "red"
Windelov Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'
Narrow Leaf Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
Pellia - Monosolenium tenerum 
Mini Pellia - Riccardia chamedryfolia
Riccia - Riccia fluitans 
Round Pellia - Süßwassertang
Flame Moss - Taxiphyllum alternans
Java Moss - Taxiphyllum barbieri
Peacock Moss - Taxiphyllum sp. 'peacock'
Taiwan Moss - Taxiphyllum sp.
Singapore Moss - Vesicularia dubyana
Christmas Moss - Vesicularia montagnei
Erect Moss - Vesicularia reticulata

STEM PLANTS
Waterwheel Plant - Aldrovanda vesiculosa
Bacopa - Bacopa caroliniana
Moneywort - Bocapa monnieri
Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
Anacharis - Egeria densa
American Waterweed- Elodea canadensis
HC- Hemianthus callitrichoides 
Stargrass - Heteranthera zosterifolia
Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Water Pennywort - Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
Ceylon Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Ceylon'
Giant Hygro - Hygrophila corymbosa
Water Wisteria - Hygrophila difformis
Green Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma
Sunset Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
Dwarf Ambulia - Limnophila sessiliflora 
Red Ludwigia- Ludwigia repens
Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
Guppy Grass - Najas guadalupensis
Downoi - Pogostemon helferi
Rotala Indica - Rotala indica
Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala rotundifolia
Rotala Rotundifolia sp. Green - Rotala rotundifolia sp. 'Green'

FLOATERS
Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
Anacharis - Egeria densa
Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
Water Pennywort- Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
Duckweed - Lemna minor
Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
Red Root Floater - Phyllanthus fluitans 
Riccia - Riccia fluitans 
Giant Slavinia - Salvinia molesta

CRYPTOCORYNE
Crypt Affinis - Cryptocoryne affinis
Crypt Aponogetifolia - Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia
Crypt Balansae - Cryptocoryne balansae
Crypt Becketii - Cryptcoryne becketii
Crypt Lutea - Cryptocoryne lutea
Micro Crypt - Cryptocoryne petchii
Pygmy Crypt - Cryptocoryne pygmaea
Crypt retrospiralis - Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
Crypt spiralis - Cryptocoryne spiralis
Crypt Walkeri - Cryptocoryne walkeri
Crypt Wendtii - Cryptocoryne wendtii
Crypt Willisi - Cryptocoryne willisi

ANUBIAS
Anubias barteri - Anubias barteri v. barteri
Anubias barteri 'marble' - Anubias barteri 'marble'
Anubias barteri v. 'glabra' - Anubias barteri v. 'glabra'
Anubias nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
Coffee leaf anubias - Anubias barteri v. 'coffeefolia'
Golden nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana golden'
Narrow leaf nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana narrow leaf'
Petite nana - Anubias barteri v. nana 'petite'

SWORD PLANTS
Tropica Sword - Echinodorus parviflorus 'Tropica'
Amazon Sword - Echinodorus amazonicus
Melon Sword - Echinodorus osiris
Ruffle Sword - Echinodorus major
Pygmy Chain Sword - Echnodorus tennelus 
Uruguay Amazon Sword - Echinodorus uruguayensis
Red Flame Sword - Echinodorus 'Red Special'

LILY'S
Lotus- Nymphaea pubescens 
Red Lotus - Nymphaea zenkeri 'red'

GRASSES
Vallisneria natans 
Water Celery- Vallisneria americana 
Vallisneria asiatica 
Corkscrew Val - Vallisneria tortifolia
Valliseneria rubra
Dwarf Sag- Sagittaria subulata 
Crinum calimistratum
Onion Plant - Crinum thaianum
Micro Sword - Lilaeopsis braziliensis

APONOGETONS
Aponogeton bouvianus
Aponogeton crispus
Aponogeton elongatus
Aponogeton ulvaceous
Aponogeton undulatus

CLOVERS
Marsilea hirsuta
Water Clover - Mariselia minuta

thanks.


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## brandonttu

I am glad I found this. It has been very helpful.


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## Robert Hudson

Wow, much effort went into this I can see, but I disagree with so much of it. The term low light is so subjective and misleading when every other componant to successful plant keeping is not addressed. I think in a sense it is mis leading to simply make a blanket list of plants under the term "low light".

The definition of low light to most people new to the hobby is whatever light came with their aquarium, and then maybe bumping that up to between 1 and 2 watts of flourescent light per gallon of water. I don't think half the plants on your list would grow in those conditions, and even if they do survive, what kind of condition are they in?

The stem plants in particular I have a problem with. Generally speaking, stem plants are the most light demanding of all aquatic plants. There are a few exceptions. Most of the exceptions are now illegal in the USA because they grow so prolificaly. Rotalas, Stargrass, Ambulia? Are you serious?
Downoi? Low light? HC? Thats crazy! You are telling me HC is a low light plant? I would love to see that. Hygrophila difformis under weak light has thin stems that can not support the weight of its own leaves and flops over. With strong light and re planting tops the stems remain strong, thick and sturdy.

Lets look at your mosses. Zipper moss, according to several people is non aquatic under any light level. Pellia, in all its forms, LOW LIGHT? Have you grown it under 2 watts per gallon?

Any floating plant is pretty much a given. When it is two inches away from the light, any plant will grow. A couple of the plants on the floating list technicaly I would not call floaters. They are stem plants that will take root in the substrate under bright light.

Cryptocorynes,

Yes several common Cryptocoryne species are very tolerant of low light levels and growing submersed, but they grow painstakingly slow. Like an inch a year. They might as well be plastic.
Balansae, retrospiralis, aponogetifolia, and pygmaea really do better under high light levels. Balansae in particular can be quite finicky.

Vallisneria I would defintly not call a low light plant. Not in a million years. Dwarf Sag.. yeah, you can get away with it, but the leaves will be much thinner than under high light. *Micro Sword - Lilaeopsis braziliensis*, now I know you have never grown this plant under low light. I won't believe it for a second. This plant has always been know as being the MOST light hog of any foreground plant. It is the KING of high light plants. Unless you are growing it in only inches of water, there is no way it would survive.

Aponogetons

Under weak light the plant will only survive on whatever energy is stored in the bulb, and most likely will only grow a few inches tall or have thin weak leaves. Once the energy in the tuber is used up, then the leaves die off and it will not grow back. Under good light, and good feeding, the plants grow to be huge, over two feet in length, tons of leaves and flower stalks. Aponogeton bovinianus is the most light finicky of all of them.

Sword plants. All sword plants more or less grow the same and are sort of iffy in the low light catagory. NEWBIES often think that the sword they bought potted that has been growing "well" in their ten gallon tank for the last 8 months is just wonderful. You and I know that a healthy sword plant would swallow a ten gallon tank for lunch.

*Red Lotus - Nymphaea zenkeri 'red'*, If you want Tiger lotus to have leaves the size of a quarter and grow to be maybe six inches tall, then grow it under low light. If you want leaves the size of your hand and the plant to be the dominate focal point, give it some real light, C02, and feed it at the roots generously.

A true low light plant list is much shorter. Maybe ten plants.


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## BiscuitSlayer

Robert Hudson said:


> HC? Thats crazy! You are telling me HC is a low light plant? I would love to see that....
> 
> A true low light plant list is much shorter. Maybe ten plants.


Robert - You might want to read the entire thread if you haven't already. There are documented cases (in this thread) where people have grown plants such as HC in a low light setup but they use CO2 injection.

Overall, I can see how this list could be confusing to some people though. Newcomers that just see a list like this might not read the whole thread or do any research and just assume that you can grow HC under a stock tank light with nothing else.

I know it would be a lot of work, but the topic of this thread (I think) needs to be compiled into a website/page with specific parameters/profiles for each plant. Supplemental care should also go along with with the aforementioned plant so that new commmers can get an understanding of what it will take to grow something like HC under low light.

I have to admit that I read the thread and jumped to the last page and saw the list too. My jaw dropped at first until I started reading the thread from the beginning. 

Edit:

Personally, I don't like the high tech / low tech terminoligy. It is too vague. If you are running low light with pressurized CO2 injection, what is it then? Medium tech? I have always thought of high tech as daily ferts, CO2 injection, and a lot of light. It never really even occured to me to inject CO2 into a low light tank with moderate fertilization.

If you guys are up to starting a website or plant profile page for low tech setups, I might be able to help. You know where to find me. LOL


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## Deni

> Red Lotus - Nymphaea zenkeri 'red', If you want Tiger lotus to have leaves the size of a quarter and grow to be maybe six inches tall, then grow it under low light.


I've been wondering how to get a red lotus to stay small. Thanks! That might help me to decide whether to increase my light or not.

I haven't read the whole topic, which I should do, but in other things I've read, the problem with a lot of plants in low light is that they grow too tall, probably because they're trying to get closer to the light.

Maybe, rather than a list of low-light, medium-light or high light plants, there could be a chart of what effects different levels of light has on each kind of plant. I hadn't read that about the _Nymphaea_ under low light before and thought that, unless I had an aquarium the size of my living room, there was no point in getting one.


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## BryceM

I think the point that Robert is trying to make is that this list is not an accurate representation of plants that thrive in low-light conditions. As long as everyone understands that, go ahead and use the information however you'd like.

Just becasue there are anecdotal reports of a person growing HC under what they considered to be "low-light" conditions does not mean that HC is a low-light plant. Just because an expert can coax a plant to survive in certain conditions doesn not mean the average person will enjoy the same success.

I agree with Robert. The list of true low-light plants is probably around 20 or 30 species. You could perhaps throw in another 50 or 100 that _could_ be grown in certain medium-light or CO2 supplemented conditions.


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## Robert Hudson

Thank you guaiac_boy. I admit I did not read the entire thread, but I figured there was something like that in there. It doesn't matter. This is the most insane list of "low light" plants I have ever seen. You might as well say every plant is low light. I can't believe nobody else has challenged this in all the time this thread has been here.

If you want to engage a conversation about how having 40 or 50 ppm of C02 and half a watt of light per gallon of water will enable these plants to grow fine, then OK. Do that and open that up to debate, but don't call it a "low light plant list". Good grief.

Some plants thrive under very minimal light with or without C02, while others may grow at an acceptable rate, while the rest, (majority) will simply perish. That is an important distinction. That is something that every newbie should understand.

Do you realize how hard it is to convince some fish people that if they want to grow plants the little 15 watt bulb on their 55 gallon tank just ain't gonna cut it? They will blame the plant, or the store they bought it from, or their water, or they will dump a gallon of fertilizer in the tank, anything except the light. They will finaly give up and go back to plastic plants. Having a list like this REALLY HELPS. 



> Maybe, rather than a list of low-light, medium-light or high light plants, there could be a chart of what effects different levels of light has on each kind of plant. I hadn't read that about the Nymphaea under low light before and thought that, unless I had an aquarium the size of my living room, there was no point in getting one.


Sure, thats a good idea. Any thing that is more informative than this. Each plant reacts differently and has it own little needs.

Let me also add, I mean no dis respect to any one, Not to Homer or James, or any one. I know Homer and James are very well meaning and generous people who only want to help. They enbody the very spirit of what this forum is supposed to be, but I think this thread has serious flaws and can cause a serious problem.


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## Deni

> Some plants thrive under very minimal light with or without C02, while others may grow at an acceptable rate, while the rest, (majority) will simply perish.


That's what I'd really like to know. Instead of just "this is a low-light plant" or "this is a high-light plant", tell me what will happen in different levels. Will I kill a certain low-light plant if I have too much light? Will a lower-than-optimum light level kill this certain plant or just cause it to grow more slowly? I haven't been able to find much information along those lines. Is it out there and I've just missed it?


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## Robert Hudson

Well its hard to get that specific with every plant, and it could be subjective, but I think its a good direction for a conversation. Thats part of the problem too... you almost have to talk in generalities, but in doing so much is open to interpretation.


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## Deni

Okay. If I start off an anubias nana petite with low-ish light, what will happen to it if I increase it to medium or even high light? Will it wither because the light's too bright? Will it grow faster, get bigger? Or will it have no effect? This is something that I really want to know, because that's exactly what I want to do. I like the idea of a little plant and if adding more light would make my petite not so petite, then I'd keep the light low.

Or is this something that would benefit from some experimentation because nobody's ever done it?


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## BryceM

Deni,

I'm keeping three varieties of Anubias barteri, 2 java ferns, 6 species of crypts and 1 moss under 3.5 wpg with MH lighting. Morphologically, they don't look much different. Leaf size for anubias and the ferns is identical to my low-light setups. The crypts leaves get a little bigger and the plants are certainly denser. The anubias look like anubias anywhere else.

So far as I can tell the only negative is that these so-called slow growers are actually spreading quickly enough that they need monthly trimming. This is especially true of the narrow-leaf java fern. Anubias is a bit harder to keep algae-free under high light, but like most plants, it responds to an occasional trim with new, healthier growth.


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## Deni

Thank you! I've really been wondering, so it helps a whole lot.


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## hoppycalif

I think it is true that all "low light" plants are just able to grow in low light, but they will all grow faster and better in higher light. I don't remember reading about anyone harming a plant with too much light. (Other than by underfertilizing after the plants start growing faster.)


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## dawntwister

I have a 29 gallon tank with 1.5 wpg. My favorite low light plants are the java fern "needle" and Myriophyllum mattogrossense. The Myriophyllum mattogrossense doesn't seem to like to be moved. It dies a little when I move, but comes back. 

Read that swords are low light plants. My amazon sword is doing fine. The chain swords melted.


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## Sf1

My 29 fluval tank has only one light, 20 watt Aqua-Glo T8.
Can I plant something there with my 0.7 watt/gallon, like: Anubias, Java Fern, Cryptocoryne, Vallisneria, Java Moss?

Also, can I plant those s plants in the sand (2 inches is OK or better more?).

Do I need a co2?

Thanks


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