# Fiberglass, How To?



## JeffLL (Oct 20, 2006)

I am back after a few weeks on _the _AudioVideo forum.

Now, I have to get back to my tank.

After much consideration I have decided to go with fiberglass encapsulation of a meticulously hand formed 1/4" grid galvanized wire frame waterwall, pond and river to the water half of a 75g paludarium.

Does anyone have a link to a how to lay up the fabric, one that has good step-by-step w/ pix?

Personal experience?
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If you are in the market for A/V equipment I highly recommend the no price talk www.avsforum.com before you invest your money. PM for my fave threads.


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## bpimm (Jun 12, 2006)

for that application I would use the chopped fiberglass mat instead of the cloth, I think it forms better to uneven surfaces. for a procedure check out custom subwoofer enclosures with a Google search, I have seen some good write ups in that subject


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## goalcreas (Nov 20, 2006)

Sounds like you are looking to do a "Wet Lay-up", 

So what you want to do is create the Master model (sounds like you might have it), and if you want to lay up right on top of it, you will need to paste a wax on, or if you want to go cheap, use wax paper, this way the resin you are sloping onto the fiber glass doesn't bond with the "master".
Keep in mind that your nice side will be the side laid up to the master, so if you want the outer side (shown side) to be nice and smoothe, you will first have to splash a tool off of the master, (same thing just put down the wax, drape your cloth onto it and press it so it is on there pretty good and looks like the final you want), once you have the cloth in place, you will mix a bucket of laminating resin with the catylist, now depending on how fast you want the cure, will depend on how much catylist you put in. the directions on the bottly will tell you how to do a slower cure, you can add more, but "BE VERY CAREFUL, TOO MUCH CAN CAUSE IT TO BURST INTO FLAMES", if you are not real experienced with it, just add what is on the bottle.
Then you begin to brush it on with a paint brush (rubber gloves would be good for you to wear, you will want to get your fingers on it in a minute) until it is well saturated, then you want to work the bubbles out with your fingers, apply more resin as needed and work out bubbles as needed. 
(note you will have 5 to 10 minutes before your resin will be too hard to work, you may want to mix 2 small batches, only adding catylist to the first, then when it is too hard, add a few drops to the 2nd so you have it when you need it.)
Wait 15 min to 1hr until it is set real good,(not too good you may not get it off) an pop it off and let it cure for another 12 to 24 hours (36 if you go real light with the catylist).

If this is what you want you are done, if you want a better surface on the outside, you need to repeat all steps on the inside of the pc you just made.

I am sorry, don't have any good sites for you to go to, just listing this from experience working on my surfboards and in some areospace / automotive companies I have worked in where this is common practice.


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## John P. (Nov 24, 2004)

Having worked with fiberglass before, I have to say ... you may want to consider using that pond foam instead.

























More here .......... http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/493978/1


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## blacksmith37 (Oct 10, 2006)

Most fiberglas items use polyesther (isopthalic with styrene dilution) resins; they are cheaper and strong enough for about any consumer item. Readily available for auto sheetmetal repair. 
If you insist on epoxy ; there are two main types , one is better in water than the other ( I can't remember; maybe amide and amine are the types ).


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## JG06 (Nov 5, 2006)

In leau of working with fiberglass, I would pick up a sack of thinset mortar, concrete pigment, and some natural aquarium gravel and use the thinset to cover your creation. Mortar in general will be much more forgiving than fiberglass or epoxy (IMHO) and if you seal it properly, you'll never have any problems with it. I've used lots of synthetic resins to glass bed rifles and make dalle de verre stained glass windows and given my druthers, I'd just as soon stay away from fiberglass if could. 

That's just my opinion though.


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## JeffLL (Oct 20, 2006)

*Hmmm...*



JG06 said:


> In leau of working with fiberglass, I would pick up a sack of thinset mortar, concrete pigment, and some natural aquarium gravel and use the thinset to cover your creation. Mortar in general will be much more forgiving than fiberglass or epoxy (IMHO) and if you seal it properly, you'll never have any problems with it. I've used lots of synthetic resins to glass bed rifles and make dalle de verre stained glass windows and given my druthers, I'd just as soon stay away from fiberglass if could.
> 
> That's just my opinion though.


Sounds promising. It would cretainly make laying up the wire frame easier. Thinset, or colored acrylic bathroom tile grout, is definitly much easier to clean up during the working process, and can more easily made to look more natural with irreglarities.

Sealing is an extra step that makes the 'concrete' ecosystemically inert. I would 'paint' epoxy over the surface to seal it, as well as adhere gravel as a landscaping element. But if I choose not to seal, and simply embed the stones, what of leaching of the lime, and resultant alkalinity? There will be continual water flow over the waterwall and riverbed. Arrrggghhhh

I am probably overthinking this :violin:

What do you all think? Suggestions, opinions and advice are greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## JG06 (Nov 5, 2006)

I mentioned sealing because I had thoughts of limestone and who knows what else leaching out too. I have plans of doing my own waterfall someday and I've given some thought to exactly what you're working on. Unsealed masonary products will absorb a little moisture and may leach certain chemicals - both can be undesirable sometimes. Were I to do something like this, I would go ahead and seal it just to be safe.

Just out of curiosity, how high do you plan to make it and what kind of pump do you have in mind for it?


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