# [Wet Thumb Forum]-CO2 pressurized system - If you could give one piece of advice?



## McKee (Feb 7, 2003)

We're finally to the point that we can take the plunge, and we're looking at a couple of places who offer the big Milwaukee combo system: regulator/solenoid/needle/bubble/ph/reactor1000. We're still waiting for some information to come back.

If you run a pressurized system, here's the Big Question: If you could offer one piece of advice or one word of warning to someone buying their first system, what would it be?

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[This message was edited by McKee on Sat December 06 2003 at 11:42 PM.]


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## McKee (Feb 7, 2003)

We're finally to the point that we can take the plunge, and we're looking at a couple of places who offer the big Milwaukee combo system: regulator/solenoid/needle/bubble/ph/reactor1000. We're still waiting for some information to come back.

If you run a pressurized system, here's the Big Question: If you could offer one piece of advice or one word of warning to someone buying their first system, what would it be?

------------------------
Our diary: http://Oscar.deardiary.net/

[This message was edited by McKee on Sat December 06 2003 at 11:42 PM.]


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## imported_trilinearmipmap (Feb 11, 2003)

My advice is to consider going without a CO2-injected system.

You can definitely grow more difficult/exotic types of plants using CO2. The question is, do you want to?

Your plants will grow much faster with CO2 injection requiring frequent pruning which soon becomes a monotonous chore.

You will find that striking the balance between plants, light, nutrients and algae will be more difficult in a CO2-injected system.

My non-CO2 aquariums require only a water change per week and little else in the way of maintainence. My CO2-injected aquarium takes up more maintainence time than the other tanks combined. Although I can grow lots of nice bright red plants, the novelty of this wears off quickly.

In particular if you have work, school or family to balance with your aquarium hobby, I would consider a low-maintainence, low-stress, non-CO2 injected aquarium.

Canadian Aquatic Plant Trading Website

[This message was edited by trilinearmipmap on Sun December 07 2003 at 09:24 AM.]


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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

trilinear has a good point, however the driver is the light, not the CO2. It is the watts per gallon that makes CO2 either necessary or just a suppliment.

If you keep the lights near 2.0 wpg, or even slightly under for larger tanks, things will go much slower and there is less work.


As for advice, first -- leaks are the big thing. 

If you weigh your tank after it is hooked up you will be able to see the weight decline as the liquid is used up. You will have an early warning that you are using too much and might have a leak.

Second, third and fourth -- secure your tank so it cannot fall over, start slow and work up gradually, 20 to 30 ppm is unnecessary -- 15 to 20 ppm is fine.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

Actually all tanks have a stamp on them something like this TW 29 That stands for tare weight 29 lbs. That's how much the tank weighs empty. Makes it real simple.










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

Except, after you hook up the regulator and tubing and such it weighs more. 

After I got it all hooked up, I weighed the whole thing. I didn't want to have to remove the regulator to weigh it.


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## BobAlston (Jan 23, 2004)

In case you haven't yet had your fill of reading about co2 systems and alternatives, take a look at my web site.

Bob

High Pressure CO2 sources, needle valves, information:
http://members.cox.net/tulsaalstons/AquaticPlants.htm#High%20Pressure%20CO2


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## Tenor1 (Mar 3, 2003)

I just want to say that Tri is "so right on the money." 

Here is a question for Tri, which is not really related to this thread (sorry). Would you recommend buying Seachem Flourite to new plant enthusists? I think you mentioned once that you tried other substrates.

Thanks,
Carlos

==============================
I try to keep the tank plain and simple but it never stays that way!


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## McKee (Feb 7, 2003)

I've gone without and played with DIY for a couple of years. Been there, done that. Moving to a pressurized system is Option Three, the other two being Doing Nothing and Throwing Away All My Plants.

The biggest decision is, do I buy a "complete system" or build one from pieces? My wife is pushing for me to buy the complete setup, but my Male Genetic Code is urging me to enjoy the excitement of hunting down the pieces.

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Our diary: http://Oscar.deardiary.net/


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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

How about go on and buy the Milwaukee combo, it is plug-and-play. Then DIY for the reactor. 

I have no opinion on the pH controller, seems like one more thing to mess with and maintain with bad results if you neglect re-calibration when needed.


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## gsmollin (Feb 3, 2003)

My one piece of advice would be to get the best fine metering valve you can buy.


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## imported_trilinearmipmap (Feb 11, 2003)

Tenor,

Sorry this is off topic but flourite works OK for me but I also have successful tanks with onyx sand and with silica sand.

Canadian Aquatic Plant Trading Website


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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

Oh, and a fifth piece of advice -- do all CO2 adjustments in the morning so you can watch the results, particularly the first day.


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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

> Originally posted by McKee:
> The biggest decision is, do I buy a "complete system" or build one from pieces? My wife is pushing for me to buy the complete setup, but my Male Genetic Code is urging me to enjoy the excitement of hunting down the pieces.
> 
> this excitement, whilst being a necessary phenotypical expression of the y chromosome, will dissipate quickly if you find yourself hunting ad nauseum for an oddball coupling to go between your regulator and needle valve.
> ...


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

jart gave good advice on this one. Finding the regulator needle valve connections is a royal pain. First mistake many people make is that you can only get the 10-32 to whatever adapter from Clippard. The needle valve Robert sells comes with this piece. Then you can if you wish hunt down the rest of the pieces.










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

> quote:
> 
> Originally posted by Rex Grigg:
> jart gave good advice on this one. Finding the regulator needle valve connections is a royal pain. First mistake many people make is that you can only get the 10-32 to whatever adapter from Clippard. The needle valve Robert sells comes with this piece. Then you can if you wish hunt down the rest of the pieces.


rex, twas not my advice per se, but info that you had passed along to me some time ago







. thanks for all the advice you have offered.

and thanks for chiming in re the connector thingy that robert supplies along with the valve. i had forgotten about that. i figure it would have been a royal pita to track down one of those at home depot


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

Not a royal pita but an impossible task. I have never seen 10-32 fittings anywhere that did not carry fluid or air control devices. Clippard pretty much set the standard that miniature air and fluid components would use the 10-32 thread. It really has no common uses in normal life. Hence the BORG is not going to carry it. I have a hard time finding many, what should be common, tubing fittings at the BORG. In fact I do much better with tubing fittings at the Home and Ranch store than I do at any hardware store in town.










American by birth, Marine by the grace of God! This post spell checked with IESpell available at http://www.iespell.com

See my Profile for tank details.

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## jart (Mar 13, 2005)

well i can relate to what you're saying. i have to feel sorry for hobbyists who live in smaller rural areas that lack specialty stores. trying to piece together reactors and the like can be frustrating. i was in the borg for about an hour, trying to select pieces for a reactor similar to the ones james and ghori have described. no success. i then discovered a plastics specialty store and in 15 minutes had all the parts to construct a reactor and a "u" shaped hang-on thingy that roger uses on his diy python. sure you can order this stuff over the internet, but it's hard to picture in your head how big the finished product's going to be unless you have the parts in your hand.

the other thing about the borg that can be annoying is that the product id #'s can vary from store to store.


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## imported_Platy (Feb 4, 2003)

Ok Ive been where you are -

I bought a tank from my local welding supply. 75.00 - I bought a regulator from them as well 85.00 - and then I bought a needle valve and bubble counter from Robert - here at aquabotanic. I think it was 20.00 for the needle valve at the time and another 18.00 for the bubble counter.

I could NOT find the reducers to go from the regulator to the needle valve, so I did the obvious haha. I got 2 nipple pieces, and then but a hose between the two and clamped them with hose clamps.

Well - Boy that was expensive. I replaced the take every week for 4 weeks before asking and finding it should last longer then that!

So heres what I did - and is probably the best bet for you *my opinion* -

Goto ebay - I think I got mine from a seller named *reefking* but I think there is another guy selling them cheaper then him with free shipping right now (im thinking about putting up another system, and have been pricing) --- And Buy a JBJ Co2 Regulator setup. Its like 89.00 - Comes with built in bubble counter and needle valve AND electronic shutoff, which you can plug into the timer your lights are plugged into. Its once solid piece. When you get it - teflon tape the bubble counter in - and your ready to go.

So you have 89.00 plus 75.00 for the 5lb tank - 11.00 fill the tank - thats 175.00 - and if you have all your connections tight - that will last for 7 to 8 months - at 6 bubble or so a second - before you need to spend another 11.00 for a refill!









I've looked - and its still the best deal I can find on the market







(sorry robert - im not slamming your store - your items were delivered quickly and the clippard needle valve was very nice, I just could make it work with my equipment.)

I hope that helps - and before someone says soemthing - NO i am not reefking - nor do i sell or am i affiliated with anyone on ebay that sells the JBJ or any other Regulator or co2 equipment.

125 Gal - 3.07wpg - 99% flourite - Pressurized Co2 - Uv Sterilization when needed - Densly Planted


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## McKee (Feb 7, 2003)

If I cannot get it through Robert, reefking is a good option. I am a happy customer of theirs. I do ask Robert to match prices, but sometimes that's not always possible for a number of reasons. He's very convenient to Portlanders, and it beats the heck out of playing "UPS Roulette."

We have a Milwaukee unit on its way, should be here Monday. I'd like to do a comparison between that and the JBJ. Word has it that they've dealt with the bubble counter/O ring issue.

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Our diary: http://Oscar.deardiary.net/


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