# Ehiem 2026 Pro II



## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Hi all,
I'm currently thinking of replacing my ancient Fluval 203 (I think it's 15+ years old!) and am looking at getting a Ehiem 2026.

The tank is only 40 uk gallons (180 litres) so I would have a really great water flow, the thing is I have an external CO2 reactor and a fluval surface skimmer that I want to keep running with this new filter. They are both 12mm. What size is the tubing on the 2026? Anyone know?

Cheers,


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## Craig Tarvin (Jul 26, 2005)

ed seeley said:


> Hi all,
> I'm currently thinking of replacing my ancient Fluval 203 (I think it's 15+ years old!) and am looking at getting a Ehiem 2026.
> 
> The tank is only 40 uk gallons (180 litres) so I would have a really great water flow, the thing is I have an external CO2 reactor and a fluval surface skimmer that I want to keep running with this new filter. They are both 12mm. What size is the tubing on the 2026? Anyone know?
> ...


I have the 2026 on a 75 gallon, it is 16mm inside/22mm outside diameter on in and outflow. If you are using the AM Reactor 1000 like I am, then put a small piece of 12mm tubing on the ends (helps to soften them up by dipping in hot water), then slide the 16mm over it and secure with pipe clamps. Not sure what to tell you about the surface skimmer, might need to buy the right size for that. You don't want to restrict the intake.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Thanks Craig for the rapid reply!
The CO2 reactor is DIY (http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...f/35016-an-incredibly-simple-co2-reactor.html) but that dodge might well work! The 12mm pipe was a very tight fit over the end of the fittings anyway!
The surface skimmer was a very tight fit as well, so that might work too.

I will get a short piece of Ehiem 16/22mm pipe and test them both I think.

Do you rate the filter?
My other options are a Ehiem 2224 pro, or the largest Ecco (2236).
Does anyone have an opinion? DO they use 12 or 16mm ID tubing?


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## JanS (Apr 14, 2004)

I have a 2028 running on my 125, and a 2217 on my 55, and both of them do a great job, so I don't think you can go wrong.
I do prefer the Eheim pro series over the classics, since they are so much easier to clean with the media baskets, though.

I don't have any experience with the Ecco's, but I have heard some complaints on them.

As for rating the filters, check out our Reviews section


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## davemill (May 3, 2004)

The 2026 is a wonderful filter. I have the big brother, the 2028, on my 72 gallon bowfront. It only needs cleaning every 4 months. The 2028 has the same filter head as the 2026, but 3 media baskets instead of 2. 

If using the 2026 for a CO2 injected tank, consider arranging the outflow tube vertically, so that the current is directed along the full front or back of the tank. This minimizes CO2 loss. If you do not inject CO2, then by all means set the outflow to create much surface agitation, to recover atmospheric CO2 as quickly as possible. 

You will not be dissappointed.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Thanks guys,
I think I might have to order it asap!
I'm sure I'll be able to sort something out with the skimmer and CO2 reactor.
If anyone has any other comments about these filters I'd love to hear them.
I have read the reviews, but just wondered if anyone else had any comments, who hadn't posted there.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

Great filter... can't go wrong with them.

I'd go for the 2126; same filter but with integrated heating.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Laith said:


> Great filter... can't go wrong with them.
> 
> I'd go for the 2126; same filter but with integrated heating.


I'm dithering over this descision! Still debating the Ecco, and not too sure about the thermo option, but I can see the obvious benefits! I'm a bit worried the larger tubing will mean i have to not use the surface skimmer and CO2 Reactor, so am going to have to wait until i can get a bit of 16mm tubing from the LFS.


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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

*I'd get the Classic*

I have a Pro II, a Pro, two ECCOs and one 2213 Classic. Only the Classic is fool proof. I have managed to overfill baskets, break impeller covers, distort baskets, misplace the little head connector thing, and fail to prpoerly clean gaskets. The Classic is more forgiving of these foolish things than the Pro series. I've broken handles on both ECCOS but I got the redesigned part and it seems fine.

In every case, proper cleaning of the gaskets are essential -- it totally sucks to find your $250 filter leaking water and have to buy a $28 gasket. The manual does not adaquately describe how to clean the filters, IMO. The importance of lubing the priming button is not emphasized enough. How one is supposed to properly clean that is beyond me. Mine eventually leaked and with professional help I opened the head and replaced internal o-rings -- not something you can do with out special tools. If you ever need to do this, mail the head to Hawaiian Marine in Houston -- Cal can do it for a reasonable price.

Meanwhile, I've run the Classic 2213 overnight with no water going in -- my fault -- just do not try to substitute that almost-right black input tube from a Fluval for the Eheim input. It may look like it works but it will draw air and the Eheim, bless it, will eventually shut down on high temp override. Well at least it didn't spew water on the carpet and it was one of 2 filters on that tank so no fish losses. I find the Classic much easier to maintain. Less parts to fool with.

So, unless you are just really careful, and never rush or do dumb things, you may find as I did that the Eheims are great if you do what you are supposed to do, when you are supposed to do it. That means clean and lube everything on time. Don't skip stuff and then forget to ever do it.

Were I to get another filter, I'd get a Classic, in fact I'd get a Classic and size a Hydor in line heater with it. Heck, I got this 2213 in a garage sale for $5, added a new gasket and it has been perfect for 6 years. I recently broke the input tube tryng to run a brush into it that was not the right size, it got stuck and I broke it trying to pull the thing out. Foolish, yeah, I know.

Were I to get rid of one tank and need to get rid of one filter, I'd probably get rid of one of the Pros, someone would probably pay me enough for the Pro2 to buy a 2217 and an inline heater and I'll bet I'd never have another problem with a filter.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

anonapersona said:


> I have a Pro II, a Pro, two ECCOs and one 2213 Classic. Only the Classic is fool proof. I have managed to overfill baskets, break impeller covers, distort baskets, misplace the little head connector thing, and fail to prpoerly clean gaskets. The Classic is more forgiving of these foolish things than the Pro series. I've broken handles on both ECCOS but I got the redesigned part and it seems fine.
> 
> ...


Wow, how did you manage all that?  

I've used the following Eheim cannisters: 2222 (Pro), 2217 (Classic), 2026 (ProII), 2126 (ProII), 2028 (ProII), 2128 (ProII). The only problem I've had was with a 2026 that hadn't been used in a long time: the gasket had deteriorated and had to be replaced... no broken impeller covers, distorted baskets, loosing head connect things... 

And I don't see the priming pump on the ProIIs as the main reason to get one. In fact I rarely use the priming pump. The advantage of the ProIIs are: good filter volumes, easy hose disconnects including flow control, easier maintenance (baskets) and the option to get one with a built-in heater. The Pro is similar but with smaller volume filter space (the Pro does not have a priming pump anyway).

The Classic line is very good value for money and has been around for years. I recently saw a 2017 (discontinued years ago and replaced with the 2217) that the owner couldn't even remember when he first installed it and it was still running with the usual Eheim quietness and efficiency. The only thing he had changed about two years ago was the o-ring... :mrgreen:


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## epine (Dec 24, 2006)

I have tried both the eheim 2128 and the 2028 on my 90g tank and imo, the integrated heater did not work really well. I opted to use the 2028 and just purchased a separate heater.


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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

Laith said:


> Wow, how did you manage all that?


<chuckle> Umm, well, when I got the tank and filters used, the prior owner came over to set the things up. We were exhausted and when the baskets were put in the Pro, the tiny connector pipe that goes at the bottom of the head was somehow lodged between the baskets and stuck down so far it got lost. So, the filter totally bypassed all the baskets and after 2 weeks the fish were starting to kill each other as water deteriorated (cichlids). I finally found the part and put it back right but the basket has been distorted some.

In the other Pro, I overfilled a basket and that broke the impellor cover -- took some investigation to find it as it was not apparent until the head was running and the weak connection broke loose, so the head would pump for a second, then stop. The gasket repairs on both the Pros began with leaks visible when the power was off, each progressed to slow leaks constantly, and/or sudden failure after a cleaning.

The gasket needs to be totally removed, washed with soap and essentially scrubbed with a washcloth to get it perfectly, perfectly clean. Then clean the channel it sits in, and the rim of the head and body, totally free of any hard water deposits. I never did all that, tough I thought I was doing a fair job.

In addition, I was not lubing the primer button, since like you I felt it ws unnecessary. Too bad, since that was the source of a leak later on, and it leaked into the head unit. Big hassle! Important parts corroded inside, currenlty mended with superglue but next time the head needs to come apart to replace those internal o-rings, it probably will not be possible.

At one point, I had both Pros the I and the II broken at the same time, so I combined parts to get one working. Yes, I felt like an idiot. Most of the problems were things I did stupidly. But, hey, I'm a pretty smart person and if can mess those up, then anyone can!

The handles breaking on the ECCOS were really a design problem, now fixed. There is a tiny pin on a bracket that can snap. It may happen when you open it, as on the first one, and so you cannot get it open, or it may happen when unit is in use, as on the second one, in which case the unit does open and spews water. Costs about $2 but not in stock in most stores.

All of these problems were likely due to me being too busy to manage all maintainance. I had 7 tanks, with 2 filters on each, all either messy discus or messy planted tanks, so all filters needed frequent cleaning.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

*Still dithering.....*

As the title suggests, I have still not bought a new filter!

I've been looking more closely at the Thermofilters, but bearing in mind the problems epine had I'm not too sure. What were the problems exactly epine?

Also with these filters I've looked on the Ehiem Website (Eheim GmbH & Co. KG | EHEIM professionel II thermofilter (GB)) and can't understand the picture showing what looks like a temperature probe with a digital readout and control dial. Where does this go? It seems to have suckers so does it go in the tank? If so how is it connected to the filter to control the temperature???
It also says they come with 12/16mm hose, which isn't right!


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## anonapersona (Mar 11, 2004)

*thermofilter*

I also have the thermofilter, and I love the heater part. The probe does go into the tank, it connects to the temp controller/readout where you select temperature. I found it hard to place the controller, I have a weird cabinet and there is no really good place to set that darn thing. I ended up taping it to a wall but to keep it from being knocked accidentally, but it is hard to see and read there.

The only thing about this filter is that you have to be certain to set the baskets back in the right direction when replacing them. The heater element is shaped sort of like an "F" and the hole in the baskets must be on top of the F. Just learn that and it should be fine.

I think that the heater combined with circulation is the best of both worlds, whether that is inside the heater like this filter or by adding the Hydor in-line heater to any other filter that has suitable tubing sizes. I have tanks that use each of these methods now. I am considering taping down the temp dials on each as it may be too easy to knock them when messing with stuff under the tank. The dials do turn very easily.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

anonapersona said:


> I also have the thermofilter, and I love the heater part. The probe does go into the tank, it connects to the temp controller/readout where you select temperature. I found it hard to place the controller, I have a weird cabinet and there is no really good place to set that darn thing. I ended up taping it to a wall but to keep it from being knocked accidentally, but it is hard to see and read there.
> 
> The only thing about this filter is that you have to be certain to set the baskets back in the right direction when replacing them. The heater element is shaped sort of like an "F" and the hole in the baskets must be on top of the F. Just learn that and it should be fine.
> 
> I think that the heater combined with circulation is the best of both worlds, whether that is inside the heater like this filter or by adding the Hydor in-line heater to any other filter that has suitable tubing sizes. I have tanks that use each of these methods now. I am considering taping down the temp dials on each as it may be too easy to knock them when messing with stuff under the tank. The dials do turn very easily.


Thanks anonapersona, great info. I agree about combining heating and circulation.

Does that digital readout bit connect to the filter then, to control the heater element? I can't see how it controls the temperature of the thermofilter!!!


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

The temperature probe sits in the tank and is connected to the digital controller which is in turn connected to the thermofilter. The controller can be placed anywhere (*not* in the water and within the limits of the length of the two wires) and I think Eheim packages some velcro with it if you want to use that to attach it somewhere.

The thermofilter actually has two power cords, one for the pump and a second one for the heating element, so you need to plan for two electric sockets.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Right, so a wire connects it to the filter! Thanks very much Laith, and the everyone else. I think my mind's made up!  

Though wait for the post in a couple of weeks when I've dithered and changed my mind yet again!!!!!


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

*Dithering no more!*

Well I didn't dither too long. I ordered an Ehiem 2128 thermofilter today (along with a HOB filter for my nano tank).

However it comes without media (which saved me £50). I currently have ceramic rings and Siporax in my Fluval 203 which I am going to transfer across (and hence will be able to switch them instantly) but am assuming I am going to need lots more media too.

The thing that is really got me concerned though is does 'no media' mean absolutely none or will it come with the filter pads? Anyone have a clue? Anyone bought one without media before and did they get the pads?


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## dough041 (Dec 23, 2006)

*Eheim 2028*

Ed;
I purchased my Eheim through Petsmart online with no media package and it did include the filter pads... Hope that helps.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

dough041 said:


> Ed;
> I purchased my Eheim through Petsmart online with no media package and it did include the filter pads... Hope that helps.


Thanks Dough.

I hope that's the same with mine!!!

Anyone else?


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

I'm pretty sure they always come with the white and blue filter pads. At least here they do.


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## SUBORPHAN (Apr 20, 2006)

Ed by the way Ehaim now make these hose adaptors called Eheim Reducers for 16-12 and 19-12mm hoses.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

Yeah, good point. Well I can have that as a back up for attaching my CO2 reactor if I can't DIY bodge it in place!  

I'm actually thinking of building another DIY reactor with a vortex flow and less Bioballs in it to improve the reaction chamber further, with 16mm hosetails obviously!!! And an easy way of venting bubbles of gas after filter cleaning etc. The only problem is clear pipe is very expensive so I might have to re-use the gravel cleaner tube and get some different fittings.


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

*Filter Arrived!*

Well I just thought I'd update and say that my 2128 arrived today with the blue and white filter pads! Thanks everyone for all the help and advice, it was all very, very much appreciated!

rayer:


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