# MCI cant get to green spot algea?



## bookface (Feb 20, 2010)

I am going through the KNO3 protocol and i can not get to green spot algea? The tank was be dosed via PPS before i made an attempt to switch to Christian Rubilars method. I have been adding KNO3 for two weeks with a doubled dose during the second week and i got up to at least 40ppm nitrate. Phosphate testing shows 0.0 All other parameters are good; CO2, light, Gh. Before the start of the KNO3 protocol i had green dust algea on the glass every few days and once i began by resetting the tank with two big water changes that dust algea disappeared for good. BUT i cant get to green spot algea!? what gives?


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## old 97 (Jul 25, 2011)

Although I read it a couple times - I did not write the book.

When algae appears the KNO3 protocol will determine the amount of nitrate you needed to add.

When GSA appears, , , , - I guess you will have to wait.

P can be supplied by water supply, fish food, multi-ferts, and substrate.
For now you can be the happiest resident under the bridge.


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## bookface (Feb 20, 2010)

Thanx old, maybe i am getting some phosphate from the substrate and food? My API kit is reading 0. Im worried about the high nitrate levels... i feel like they should be much lower...


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## old 97 (Jul 25, 2011)

bookface said:


> and i got up to at least 40ppm nitrate. ?


, , , added per day ?
, , , added per week ?

, ,, Net concentration @ the end of the week?


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## bookface (Feb 20, 2010)

Its a ten gallon. Added .2 grams KNO3 per day for one week. Doubled to .4 grams the second week. Im at 40 ppm NO3 now.


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## old 97 (Jul 25, 2011)

& you changed half the water @ the end of the first week ?


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## bookface (Feb 20, 2010)

Yes, changed half the water. Some observations since i changed to this method and read and re-read Rubilars posts...

I have no algea in the tank what whatsoever. It should be noted that before i began the protocol i was running very lean on nitrate 5ppm with it sometimes hitting 0ppm. Phosphate readings were at least 1ppm. I was dosing iron and traces somewhat haphazardly. When i did get a kit to measure iron it was reading on the high end of a sera chart at 1ppm. I can assume my traces were high as well. At that time i had 4, thats right, 4 different types of algea in the tank with BGA just starting to make an appearance. The others which have plagued my tank for some time were green dust, Rodophyta sp.1, Rodophyta sp.2, and some string algea. 

So I threw a bag of zeolite in my hang on the back filter for the string algea, and began the KNO3 protocol. The green dust cleared up immediatelty. Both species of Rodophyta seemed to stop multiplying and the BGA disappeared in a matter of days. I have since stopped the protocol, did a water change and will be adding iron according to the fertilator, which is about 1/3 of what edward suggests with pps. Same for my traces. I should add that i kinda cheated a bit with the addition of Excel, but that was to rid the tank of any old Rodophyta algeas. To date the tank is looking awesome and there are no signs of any new algea. 

So far, everything Rubilar recomended with regards to algea control seems to be working. New tank parameters will be N03 10-20ppm. Phosphate 0.0, as i believe i must have some from food and waste. Iron and traces .1ppm, and going to use Mayaca which i already have as an indicator for low iron levels. Gh is about 5. Water from tap is 4:1 Ca to Mg. I am slowly going to reverse that ratio with my RO and reconstitute to get to where i want to be. 

I seem to be rambling... any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## old 97 (Jul 25, 2011)

Your experience mirrors mine to the letter



bookface said:


> . To date the tank is looking awesome and there are no signs of any new algea.
> .


I was right with 'ya up until the begining of the third paragraph.

Just blast the C02, dose only enough nitrate to keep all the algae @ bay, & if you start to see spots - sneek a little P in there.
, , , & stop; why try harder?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

What kind of lighting do you have? MCI assumes high light. I gave up on MCI, using ferts to fight algae IMO is a losing battle. Your plant mass increasing and decreasing will make ferts a constantly moving target. Dose more ferts than you need and increase CO2 and reduce lighting to fight algae. Much easier.


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## bookface (Feb 20, 2010)

I have (3) 15watt florescent tubes overdriven on one ballast. Room for another bulb, but i didnt want to overdo it. Somebody let me know how to put a picture up and i will do it.


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