# String Algae......?



## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Hi Everybody,

Could really use some help here with a String algae problem that showed up 2+ wks ago. My System/Setup is *Atypcial*: 2 Main Tanks, Sump, Aquatic Plant Filter and Emersed PF=~120gal. The String Algae Problem is only in the Aquatic PF which contains:

Alternanthera reineckii, Bacopa caroliniana, Limnophila aromatica, Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Cuba', Ludwigia sp. 'Guinea', Ludwigia glandulosa, Hygrophila polysperma, Hydrophila polysperma "Rosanervig", Lobelia cardinalis 'Small Form', Eleocharis parvula and Rotala macrandra 'Red"

The L. 'Cuba' is stunted--was growing Beautifully. L. guinea is stunted some, but not terribly. The Mac "Red"--some is severely stunted--some not at all--Go Figure!

This system has been setup*--in varying stages--*for about 1.5-2yrs.

My Specs are:

PPS-Pro
100% RODI water w/ 15gal. WC/day
Flourite
65w Coralife over 29gal @12hr/day.
N-40+--too hard to read=Dark Red with AP test kit
P-3+--Seachem test kit
C02--No C02=pH 6.8, W/C02=pH 6.2= ???ppm (via Pinpoint and Milwaukee w/ Omega probes)
Kh 1.75
Gh 4
Ca ~27ppm
Mg +/-1ppm (I just added 1ppm. Gh/Ca formula showed a negative...??? :noidea: )
Free-Ammonia 0
Ammonium 0.25
Nitrites 0
TDS currently +/-135
Plenty of water flow

N and P are too High--I understand that and I am working on lowering them. They are high because of the current Bioload--which fluctuates. I have just now turned off the Macro pump, added ~7.5ppm K, 0.1ppm 10% Iron, 12ml PPS-Pro Micro solution *(*w/ Auto-dose 12ml *more* 1 hr before lights come on*)*. I will allow the daily auto-dose of the 12ml PPS-Pro Micro solution over the wkend and may add another ~7.5ppm of K, in hopes of getting the plants to use up some of the N and P.

I have searched here and other places trying to find the basic/root cause of string algae--No Luck, other than too many Nutrients in the water--doesn't tell me anything that I don't already know! 

Anybody know what the cause of string algae is? High N? High P? High N *and* P? Low Micros? :noidea:

BTW, String Algae= Long, thin green strands flowing in the water from the plant's leaves/stems.......I've been removing as much as possible with a toothbrush, but its currently not going away.

Any insight would be Greatly Appreciated! rayer:


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## DonaldmBoyer (Aug 18, 2005)

Basically, too much light and too many nutrients or a poor fert schedule will lead to hair algae. Cut your photoperiod down, or try a "siesta" period where the lights go off midway through the photoperiod. Light dosing with hydrogen peroxide administered via an eyedropper is an excellent way to kill the hair algae!!

Make sure to keep up on your fert schedule!!


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Pictures?


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

This is *not * a pic of my tank, but this is the type of algae that I have:










The pic is from:

aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/

They call it "Thread Algae", some call it "Hair Algae", and some "String Algae"--either way: what's in the pic is the problem.

I really don't think its the light (2.24wpg). The website says maybe Iron--Ok, maybe. I do know that my specs/ferts are out-of-wack at the moment. So, what I think is this:

N and P have climbed from the feeder fish waste/food. K and/or micros have bottomed out causing a K and/or micros limitation. Enter Algae. If the algae is caused by excess Iron--then its presence would indicate a K limitation.

That is why I have stopped dosing N and P and dosed some *Extra *K, Mg and micros, and am continuing to dose K, Mg and micros at the PPS-Pro level daily. (The *Extra* Mg dosing is mainly because Gh was 1, so I added CaCL2. That brought the Gh to about 4 with the test indicating ~27ppm Ca and the math indicating a negative for Mg.)

Normal dosage has been 12ml each of Macro and Micro solutions via PPS-Pro. Yesterday I discontinued the N and P. Added a total of ~13ppm K, 1ppm Mg, 0.1ppm 10% Iron and 24 ml total of PPS-Pro Micro solution, 120ml 3% H202.

Today the tank will receive a full PPS-Pro dose of K and MG only and Micro solution (12ml each). I made up a solution based upon PPS-Pro minus the N and P=118.9g of K2S04 + 41g Mg/ 1L RODI water.

There was some algae growth yesterday. Possibly a days worth, but I seriously believe it was noticeably less.

PPS-Pro dosing is done via peristaltic pumps on a timer, and extra dosing was done manually.

15gal. 100% RODI WC daily=~12.5%/day

I did turn off My UVS (18w TurboTwist) about 2 wks ago, because of its supposed effect on Iron. I have some Bacopa carolina that has been growing white leaves for some time now.

Any Thoughts on this? Is my thinking correct? Or could this all be from the 0.25ppm of ammonium?


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Hi
Your snakes are producing lots of waste. Any presence of Ammonia NH3, Ammonium NH4 or Nitrite NO2 is toxic and a sign of insufficient or dead biological filtration. This triggers all kinds of algae. In such conditions you need to be careful with H2O2 not to kill the filter and add more biological filtration until you get zero NH3, NH4 and NO2. All must become harmless NO3 even if it means building a bigger filter. 

I think your idea of dosing the solutions without NO3 and PO4 and still at the recommended quantity is good. And I would keep the UV sterilizers ON and maintain low but measurable Ca. Set CO2 to 1 - 2 bps, discontinue pH / CO2 regulator. Shorten your lighting period from 12 to 11 hours and monitor NO3 and PO4 weekly.



Thank you
Edward


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Hi Edward,

Thanx for the Thoughts and Input. Actually, its not the snakes producing the waste as much as its the feeder fish. I let the population dwindle and remain low for 1+ month until I managed to get around to getting more fish. I added about 1 dozen 3-5" Comet Goldfish. Within about a week it was down to 6-7, so I upped it back to 12 Comets. Now its at about 8. I've added Seachem's Stability recently on a couple of occasions to help the Bio-filter along, but without any Free-ammonia--I wasn't really concerned about it. Now I know better! Also, I "Fatten" the feeder fish up as much as possible. However, the ones that go straight into the tank with the snake--get "Fattened" up in the tank, so a lot of fish food goes into the tank and goldfish are waste generators anyway.

I turned the UV back on this morning before I left for work after thinking about the possibility of excess Iron being the problem. So, I will leave it running. I just need to pick up a timer and set it to run at night and turn off prior to dosing.

I don't use the 2 pH controllers as "Controllers"--I just use them as monitors. I have the C02 run 24/7 into a single internal power reactor at about 3-4bps and this creates a 0.6 pH drop system wide. I could be wrong, but considering the nature of the overall setup--I don't think that 1-2bps will provide enough C02 system wide.

I prefer a Gh of about 3 or less, but adding 1/4 tsp. of CaCL2 bumped it up to ~4 and I would guess the added Mg took it to around ~4.5. The WCs will have it reduced to a better point in a few days.

I'll drop the photoperiod and continue on as planned and we will see how it goes!

Any other Thoughts?

I haven't done any more testing, but my TDSs have not increase in the last 24hrs.

Many Thanx!


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

Hi
You can leave the UV on 24/7. Are the goldfish growing in the same circulation water as the snakes? The CO2 pH drop theory is used in systems with some other acids involved, otherwise use the classic pH/KH/CO2 table to determine CO2 levels. Thanks for using the TDS tester. 

The snakes can take 5" long goldfish?



Edward


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Added note: While adjusting the light timer and adding more Stability--I took a look: The alge has not grown and is noticeably reduced! Not sure if it was the H202 or the UV or Both, but Improvement is Improvement!


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Hi Edward,

Yes, They can actually take much larger fish, but the Comets make a Good meal and are inexpensive and easy to come by. Its pretty wild, it only takes about 15 secs from Grab to Gone, and only about 6-8 secs if the snake grabs the fish by the head/face.

I would actually like to put the UV on a Timer to extend the bulb life. I had been running it 24/7, but decided to turn it off because of the white Bacopa carolina leaves--thinking its an Iron deficiency. I'll leave it running for now, but put it on a timer before long. My thinking is simply--leave the Iron available during lights-on, and with daily PPS-Pro dosing--any UV precipitation at night shouldn't matter.

I'll check out the pH tables again.

The TDS tester is one of the dual inlines that I just have the probes hanging in the main tank. Push a button--instant TDS! Love it. One of the reasons I use the pH controllers as monitors--so, I can look from across the room or passing-by and get a pH reading. I gave up on the "Controller" aspect. I've found bubble-rate to be much easier to set and forget! Then the pH reading tells me at a glance if there's anything I need to check.

Really glad to see the algae reducing. I was going to add more H202, but the color of what's there has not changed, and with adding more Stability--it just seemed contrary to common sense.  

I'll let Ya know how things go.......!


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Hi Edward,

Forgot to answer one of Your questions:

I have a "Holding Tank" that is completely separate from this system. When I buy more feeder fish--*Most* go into the Holding Tank. But, because the levels are low in the 2 main tanks--some of the feeder fish go directly into the main tanks. Comets for the larger snake and minnows for the smaller one. Both of those Main Tanks are part of the system in question.

Needless to say: I buy Stability by the 2L jug!


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Just an Update:

The algae has grown some in the last 24hrs, but Not what had been "a Day's Growth". The UV is plugged in and running. I did not add another dose of H202, because I added the Stability. So, Tonight I added another 120ml of H202. This will help me determine which is having the positive effect--UV or H202. Right now, I 'm thinking it was the H202.

TDS has not changed (150ppm), but that includes the daily ~12.5% WC.

I did some more tests:

N03--~40ppm, not as near as red and actually seemed to be in the ~40ish range which means they are/should be a bit lower than they were.....

P04--~2.5ppm. Was a solid 3+ppm, so these have dropped also.

Nitrite--0ppm still

Ammonium--0.25ppm still.

One thing I had forgotten: The plants in the Emersed Plant Filter are potted in Aqua Soil. Nitrates went through the roof after changing them over to AS, and the AS is probably the main source of the ammonium also. Additionally, I have a large mesh bag of AS in the xP3 filter--I added it to help maintain a low pH/Kh. Not sure what I am going to do there. May swap it out, may wait for it to settle down.

Either way, things have improved. The H202 will help me determine if its the main source of algae reduction.

Plant growth/quality has improved some. The L. 'cuba' is looking better already--not Great, just better.

I manually added another ~7.5ppm of K and ~1ppm Mg. Without testing--the Ca:Mg ratio of 3-4:1 should be getting about right......


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## Edward (May 25, 2004)

The AS is not helping there. You need inert substrate so plants can use water column nutrients. And who cares about Ca : Mg ratio?


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Hi Edward,

I guess I'll end up having to swap out the AS. I had recently learned about the High N from AS--then forgot about it. I originally used regular aquarium gravel, so I guess I'll go back to that or maybe procrastinate long enough to pick up another bag of Flourite. Every one of my few experiences with AS have turned around to bite me in the butt. I really do need to throw the stuff in the field! Sheesh! What a PITA! :heh: 

Ca:Mg ratio? I've read it exists, I've read that it doesn't. Never really knew one way or the other. But I've never had any related problems when the Ca:Mg is around the 3-4:1.


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## Turbosaurus (May 24, 2006)

When I noticed stunting on my macranda and A. Gracillis I increased both Mg and Cl. Within a week I had healthy new growth. Not the primary reason for Naja's post, but he did mention it... I might also add that I have very soft water like yours.


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Thank You for Your input, Turbosaurus. At this point, I'm not exactly sure what is/was causing the stunting, but things have definitely improved. It may very well have been what looked like some Ca and no Mg. I wanted to try some "Harder" plants, so I got some--expecting them to melt in 3 days or less!  But they didn't, and if they lived, I want/ed to learn how to use them as "indicator plants".

Update: Growth is back for most plants. Did a Good trim 6/29. The String Algae is Gone. I did 3x120ml H202(=1ml/g)--1 dose every other day. Seems to have done the trick. The algae was gone before I did the trim. N03 and P04 are still high, so I did a 50% WC 6/28, but haven't done any testing since (simply no time/energy). I'll try to get to it tomorrow. TDS climbed from ~150 to ~169 over 7 day period, but that includes adding ~7.5ppm K, and the daily PPS-Pro minus N and P dosing. I don't think that my Auto-WC setup is draining quite as much as I thought (~8g instead of ~12.5). I made a simple change a while ago and have been wondering about this ever since. I have increased the drain time 150%, so it should start draining ~12g/day now. Hopefully that will keep the TDS in check.

I have been feeding the feeder fish in this system considerably less. They are fattened up and waiting for their demise. Now its just maintenance feeding. I still expect N and P to be at least fairly high. Some plants are still slightly stunted (instead of totally  ).

I will keep working with this system in this direction and see if I cannot sort out how to get the N and P down to more reasonable levels.....

:supz:


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## Naja002 (Nov 15, 2005)

Just another Update with test results:

Gh-3
Kh-2
Ca-15ppm
Mg-4ppm
NH4-0
NH3-0
N02-0
N03-20-40ppm
P04-3-3+ppm

Some of the Test kits are difficult to read. The N03 Has dropped. Its definitely lower, possibly around 20, but not as High as 40. The P04 is in the +/-3ppm neighborhood--probably 3+.

I plan on continuing on minus the N and P. I have started using Gh Booster instead of CaCL2 and MgS04. I think I will continue to need more K beyond the PPS_Pro mix that I am now using, so the Gh Booster will provide plenty of that (K).

No doubt that I'll be back with more problems before I get this sorted out, But:

Thank You, Edward and everyone else for Your Help!


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