# help with fuzz algae, staghorn, and thread (water parameters)



## Gorlack Zeblock (Jul 19, 2009)

i have had my planted aquarium running for about a month and a half now and i cannot get rid of this fuzz algae that has been growing on most of the stems and leaves in my tank. i also have small amounts of staghorn and thread algae. The top of my water is also covered by an oily film that prohibits by bubbles from popping at the top

I have a 29 gallon 30x12x18
i dose liquid flourish comprehensive formula and flourish potassium 2-3 times a week.
i also use eco complete plant substrate
my nitrates are at 5-10 ppm
im running pressurized co2 at about 20ppm
i use ro water and i do not know the levels of phosphates in my tank but i have heard fish waste and food should be enough to supplement my plants

i have been doing weekly water changes with ro water

for lighting i have 4x24 watt t5 ho 6500k system (3.3wpg) on for about 8-9 hours a day

If any one has any suggestions for dosing fertilizers, or light or anything is would be greatly appreciated

thanx 
jake


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Jake,

You are doing too many things at once in a tank that is very young. All these fertilizers may not really be needed. The RO water is not the best alternative to tap water. Your light maybe very, very good, but first you are running it too long every day, and second the oily film that you mention blocks some light. Also the spectrum of the bulbs may not be what the plants like but with a lot of light you can get away with a lot.

My suggestions:

1. Reduce the light period to about 3 hours a day only. In the middle of the day. This will hurt the fuzz and thread algae (not the staghorn) big time but the plants will be fine. Keep in mind that if you have CO2 you could keep the tank completely dark for 21-22 hours a day and have strong light only 2-3 hours a day and the plants will still grow fine.

2. You should mix the RO water with some tap. Maybe 2 parts RO and 1 part tap water. Dechlorinated with Prime, AmQuel, or ChlorameX. Do not use any other dechlorinator. It's actually best if you run the tap water through a carbon filter but that requires about $30 and some work to hook it up.

3. For the staghorn algae you must lower the nutrients to zero for a few days. Forget your test kits. Usually they show ballpark figures. Just change 10% of the water every other day for a week or two. Frequent and small water changes are better than big and infrequent. 

4. Fertilization; During the period of frequent small water changes do not add any fertilizers. Observe the plants - if they start to get pale then they need fertilizer. The order is: Start with K. Observe the plants. If there is no improvement start adding Mg and Ca in addition to the K. Observe again - add Fe/Traces next if there is no improvement or the plants grow too slow. Next is N. Observe again... Last is P if you need it - as you said the fish food provides P and you are right. You should have gone through this sequence from the very beginning.

5. The oily film - buy a surface extractor to attach to the suction to your canister. It's important to remove that oily film because it's ugly, but also it blocks light. Most of all - it is an obstacle for normal gas exchange. This gas exchange is extremely important in a planted tank. We are not talking CO2 only. Just remember that the surface needs to be slighly agitated at all times. No stagnant water.

6. During all that make sure your CO2 is running consistent. You don't mention CO2 and I hope you have a pressurized system. If you use DIY Yeast make sure you replace it every 3-4 days even if it appears to run fine. That will provide consistency. If you don't use CO2 brace for a long wait. The tank will eventually turn around but it will take a few months.

--Nikolay


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## Gorlack Zeblock (Jul 19, 2009)

wow, thanks for the advice and the nice instructions. you are right, i start off with too many variables too quickly to be able to see what was actually causing the problem. I will be moving my whole aquarium this week and i will start this routine. 

btw does anyone have any suggestions on moving a planted tank? i will only be driving 2 hours and i am wondering if i could just keep 2-4" of water in the tank and not have to uproot everything and possibly have to deal with crypt melt ect.

one more question, would it be beneficial to run a warm up period with only half of my light on for and hour and then run max lighting for 3 to 4 hours with another hour of half light?


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

You can do 4 hours or 1/2 or 1 watt per gallon, followed by the strongest light you have for 1-3 hours, and another 4 hours of the 1/2 to 1 wpg. That way you can enjoy the tank when you are home, you are not going to have a dark tank most of the time.

Moving the tank with the plants means 2 things. First you will be lifting the tank with the gravel in it. Some tanks bottom out - the glass bottom just falls out. It does not happen every time but it might. That's because the gravel is very heavy. Second during transportation you must cover the tank with something (cling wrap maybe) because the vehicle movement will make the water splash in a rectangular container. You will get splashes 2-3 ft. above the tank despite having only a 2-3 inches of water in the tank. Best thing is to move the tank dry, the gravel in a bucket, the plants in ziplock bag without water (just moist) and avoid the sun hitting the ziplock bags.

--Nikolay


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