# First water test results - my dummy proof tank!?



## yum (Feb 11, 2008)

So, I did my first water test on my NPT tank and I think the results are good.

Ammonia = 0 & PH = 7

Tap water has a pH of 7.6, I didn't test the ammonia from the tap. Should I?

The ammonia test kit said to divide the results by 1.22 to get my NH3-N reading but since it's zero, I'm assuming Nitrates = 0.

The specs: 20 gallon long, 2 watts per gallon, submersed heater, 78 degrees, no filter, driftwood, 2 adult fancy guppies, 2 adult red fire guppies, 20+ new born red fire guppy fry (they are looking for a good home in a few weeks when they get big enough, anyone in chicago can contact me. FREE!), 3 otocinclus, 7 RCS with a batch of shrimplets on the way, pond snails and MTS, random assortment of plants: Rotala, java moss, java fern, moss ball, SAGITTARIA SUBULATA, BACOPA SP., duckweed and I can't really identify the rest.

This is my first foray into a planted tank, as all my previous experience has only qualified me as a plant killer. :heh: I wanted a low maintenance and inexpensive set up when I happily stumbled upon this forum. I originally wanted to get some killifish but as the GF likes guppies we got a few pairs from a local guppy auction. 2 days later we have the 20+ babies. DOH!

I'm really happy with things so far. The only problems I have is some hair algae and some dirt clumps the MTS are stirring up.

I didn't really do anything special. I sorta jammed them all into the tank and prayed for the best. So, far it's turning out great despite my ineptitude. I'll post a pic when I get home later tonight.


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## bratyboy2 (Feb 5, 2008)

YUM BUDDY PAL HOW ARE YOU!?!?!?! okay so everything sounds good make sure your top layer is a lil more then a inch i found out that helps...remove the larger snails they do a bit more damage i find. the algae should be taken out manually or you can dose with excel...that will help the plants get going to...and well i think i got everything hehe


oh....water is perfect no need to second guess it unless you have OCD


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## neilfishguy (Mar 10, 2008)

You need a nitrite and nitrate test kit. You can not derive these from a ammonia test kit.

If you have 0 ammonia then you definitly have nitrate unless your plants ate them all.


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## isu712 (Feb 8, 2008)

I agree with neilfishguy. You can't get your nitrItes and nitrAtes from an ammonia test kit. Here's a little chemistry lesson for you. NH3 is ammoniA and NH4 is ammoniUM, they spontaneously switch back and forth by taking a H from H2O and they are both toxic to fish. Still with me, good. NO2 is nitrItes and NO3 is nitrAtes. NO2 is also toxic to fish, but NO3 isn't as bad and should be used by your plants before it builds up to a toxic level. You want to get test kits for NO2 and NO3 so you can make sure your tank is safe for fish.

I hope this made sense and if you need any more clarification please feel free to ask.


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## yum (Feb 11, 2008)

Thanks. That is very helpful info. I will look for a nitrate test kit. Is there a preferred type/brand?

What would be good readings for a planted tank? Do I want a certain level to be maintained as an indication for sufficient plant nutrients?

What can be interpreted from a zero ammonia reading?

How about the 7 PH reading?


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## neilfishguy (Mar 10, 2008)

Honestly, PH does not matter hardley at all.

Ammonia should be zero at all times, nitrite 0, and nitrate like 20 is best IME

This is a good kit.

If I were you I would just buy this.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4454

UNLESS you allready have good liquid test kits for ph and ammonia and not strips. Strips suck and are really useless.

If you have good test kits allready, then just buy nitrite and nitrate from here

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=13524


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## isu712 (Feb 8, 2008)

It's good that you're going to get a test kit for nitrAte, but you have to be sure to get one for nitrIte as well like neilfishguy says, since it is dangerous to fish as well.


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## yum (Feb 11, 2008)

oh man! i got ripped off! i way over paid for my kits if i could have got all that for $15!!! ah well, lesson learned.

i thought PH was important... oh well. thanks


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## isu712 (Feb 8, 2008)

pH can be important, but I think it comes more into play if you're trying to get fish to breed or trying to keep a really delicate fish. If your not trying to keep anything too exotic, then as long as your pH remains stable you should be just fine.


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## neilfishguy (Mar 10, 2008)

isu712 said:


> pH can be important, but I think it comes more into play if you're trying to get fish to breed or trying to keep a really delicate fish. If your not trying to keep anything too exotic, then as long as your pH remains stable you should be just fine.


I know that is the popular school of thought, and no offense meant, because PH can def. help when breeding fish, but my experiance tells me otherwise about the importance of PH. For example in the manhattan tap, with ph of 7.2, and rock hard water, I have breed wild rams and angels, and one of my buds has aclimated and then bred wild discus to breed in pure tap.


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## mtundu (May 8, 2007)

pH is directly important for a lot of fish (although many can also be acclimated to tap water), but it's also important indirectly for other chemical attributes of the water, particularly ammonia.

Most importantly, ammonia toxicity increases with temperature _and with pH_. With ammonia at 0 it probably doesn't matter, but I want to make the point that there is abundant scientific evidence that ammonia toxicity in general and in aquaria is _highly_ dependent on pH.

This post from The Krib explains the situation more:

http://www.thekrib.com/Chemistry/ammonia-toxicity.html

Diana Walstad's excellent book, Ecology of the planted aquarium, also goes into some detail on the nitrogen cycle in aquaria and what it means for the health of fish and plants we keep.


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