# Newly Planted 75 gallon filtration/co2 injection issues



## ngb2322 (Apr 9, 2008)

Here's the deal. I established this tank about 3 months ago with 2 dempseys and 2 plecos, and after they spawned, I decided to find someone interested in breeding dempseys. Afterward, I decided that I loved the look of a planted tank and had to convert. After changing the substrate to a gravel, flourite, eco-complete mix, I added two pieces of driftwood (harder driftwood, stayed at bottom immediately, no need to hold them down with rocks), peat to the filter, and a pressurized CO2 injection system. I believe now would be a good time to give you some background information.

Here's my water specs:
pH=7.8-8.0
Ammonia=0ppm
Nitrite=0ppm
Nitrate=10ppm
GH= 7 deg
KH= 6 deg
Temp=75 deg F steady

I know most of these are within a reasonable range, except for the pH. I figured that with CO2 injection, the pH would drop, but it hasn't.

Here's my tank specs:
75 gallon glass tank
Glass canopy
130 W flourescent
30 W T5
wet/dry filter, w/ open sump and bio-balls
2 powerheads for circulation
Red Sea 500 CO2 reactor (the one that makes a little tornado inside)
Paintball CO2 tanks (I have about 6, since I used to play, and do not feel like buying a big tank)
UV Sterilizer (turbo twist)

Fish:
6 black kuhli loaches
2 pepper corys
1 panda cory
1 albino cory
2 bushy-nosed cats

as you can see, I'm working my way from the bottom up in stocking!

Plants
2x Wisteria
3x Water Sprite
2x Ludwiga
1x Sword
2x baby tears on rocks
1x moss ball
5x microsword grass

My first question is why haven't I seen a pH drop since I began injecting CO2? I believe it is due to the wet/dry filter, since when I turn it off for an hour with the CO2 on, I can see a slight drop. I think my wet/dry nullifies any CO2 injection because of this observation. Does anyone have similar or contradictory experience? I think I will be converting to the Rena xP3, which, along with the two powerheads, should give me plenty of mechanical/bio-filtration, as well as make my CO2 injection more efficient, since canister filters do not add aeration. Sound right? If not let me know, I'm trying to learn as much as I can. 

My next question is if I switch to the xP3, what type of media should I use in the 3 chambers? I am not going to use anything that is carbon based because a) i like the stain the driftwood has put on the water and b) I have heard it leaches nutrients out of the water that the plants need. Is this correct? I was thinking of using two chambers of micro-filter pads, and a top chamber of bio micro-stars, and replacing the bottom pad when flow drops by moving the middle one down and putting a new one in the middle? Good idea, bad idea? Anyone have experience with the xP3? Although most tanks usually have extra filtration, I am worried about starving my plants with any filtration, is this wrong thinking?

Lastly, in regards to CO2 injection, anyone with experience please help! I have that crappy Red Sea reactor in my aquarium, and I hate the look of stuff in my tank. So I've been reading about buying an inline reactor, building one, and I don't know where to begin. I saw a reactor with what looked like bio-balls, so if I make a DIY, I could just use some I already have. Also, the reactors look awful similar to the UV sterilizer. Has anyone ever tried to us a UV sterilzer as a reactor? Would that work with counter-current flow or not? 

Basically I'm looking for advice. If you're still reading this, thank you for your interest and hopefully you can help me!

Thanks, 

Nate B.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

> My first question is why haven't I seen a pH drop since I began injecting CO2? I believe it is due to the wet/dry filter, since when I turn it off for an hour with the CO2 on, I can see a slight drop. I think my wet/dry nullifies any CO2 injection because of this observation. Does anyone have similar or contradictory experience? I think I will be converting to the Rena xP3, which, along with the two powerheads, should give me plenty of mechanical/bio-filtration, as well as make my CO2 injection more efficient, since canister filters do not add aeration. Sound right? If not let me know, I'm trying to learn as much as I can.


First off, make sure your pH measurement is correct by using a standard pH 7 solution to test your kit or pH meter. Wet/dry filtration is not the best for planted tanks due to off-gassing of CO2, but I think you could overcome it by jacking up your flow rate of CO2. I'll let others chime in on this one.



> My next question is if I switch to the xP3, what type of media should I use in the 3 chambers?...


I have an XP2 on each of my 50's, and I use ceramic rings in one chamber and sponges in the others. It works great. Every couple of months I clean it out - just rinse everything out and replace the way they were.



> Lastly, in regards to CO2 injection,...


 Check out the diy forum here and you'll see plans on how to build your own diy in-line reactor. You can use clear or regular pvc, doesn't matter.

Hope that helps.


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Bert's right about everything! 

I use the XP3. I really like this filter. I just use it as it comes. I don't put carbon in it. It does a great job. Like Bert said you can just rinse your sponges (in non-chlorine water). I do replace my sponges every once in a while. I also use the floss pads (cut my own). I use 2 XP3s since I have a big tank so I clean them each a a different time to avoid any loss of nutrifying bacteria. I clean my filters at least once a month. I have ADA Aqua Soil and a heavy fish load. They will loose their flow if they need a cleaning.

I think you'll find when you switch to the canister that your CO2 issues will be solved.

You can build your own reactor for much cheaper. I bought mine (not a DIY person). I got an AquaMedic 1000. It works fine but DIY is SO Cheap! Go for it.


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

Filtration will not starve the plants. Even carbon has never been proven to absorb nutrients, just speculated about. The advantage of a big canister filter is the added flow rate, which is very beneficial to the plants, since it is good water circulation in the tank that keeps nutrient rich water available to all of the plant leaves.

I use an XP3 on a 45 gallon tank, with a small amount of biological media in one chamber and the sponges that came with the filter in another chamber, with the third chamber removed entirely.


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## ngb2322 (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks for the advice, I can't wait to get my xP3. It's supposed to be delivered by April 10, but we'll see. I got it through amazon for $150 (through 4petsdirect.com). Question about the xP3, can I put a CO2 reactor and a UV sterilizer inline with the outlet back to the tank? Will I encounter more flow issues with less fouling in the canister? If so, I would lean towards the CO2 reactor in constant service from the xP3, and put the UV sterilizer on one of the powerheads? Any suggestions? Also, does anyone have any experience with Madagascar Rainbows in a planted tank? Any suggested stockings for my tank?


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## hoppycalif (Apr 7, 2005)

I have an external DIY CO2 reactor in the outlet line from my XP3, and I couldn't see any flow reduction from adding it, so the reduction had to be pretty small. The more things you put in that line the more flow reduction you get, so I wouldn't add a UV or an external heater in that line, but it might work well enough.


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Since I have 2 XP3 filters, on one I have my CO2 reactor in line. On the other I have a UV filter. I agree with Hoppy about not putting more than 1 thing inline. I think it would be too much draw on one filter. It works well with 1 thing inline. 

I will say that since I have plumbed in-line I will loose the prime of the pumps unless I fill the filter up with water as much as I can and then take the end that flows into the tank and hold it low into a bucket until the water begins to flow. That removes any leftover air in the lines. I start the pump with the line in the bucket and once it is pumping strong I quickly follow it up and back into the tank with the bucket. It works beautifully. With the inline stuff it has a hard time getting the air out and not loosing prime if I don't do this. It's quick, it's easy and all the tubing debris goes into the bucket and not my tank which is an added bonus.


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## ngb2322 (Apr 9, 2008)

Good advice Tex Gal! I definetely will run into that and I do hate the junk that gets back into the tank from my wet/dry right now, although I've heard it is good for the plants.... anyway, I plan on building a reactor similar to the one in the DIY section...seems pretty easy, and I'm going to make some changes. I want to run the reactor on the intake to the pump from the tank, but still keep the reactor relatively clean. So my idea is to add a "pre-filter" sponge between two valves in the line prior to the reactor that can be easily removed and rinsed. I'll add a post to the DIY section with instructions when I figure it all out. Thanks again!


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## mott (Aug 6, 2006)

Could have saved 30 dollars and got a better filter with all media included

Xp'3s are good filters tho...


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