# 50G and a CO2 system



## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

Hello, I would just like to know if anyone here has used the Red Sea CO2 Pro System? If so how do you like it? and can you turn the co2 flow off at night if you dont have a solenoid? Also how long would a 20oz CO2 paintball tank last for a 50 Gal tank to grow sunset hygro, java fern, anabius, onion plants and other hygros? I have 2 39W 6700k HO T-5 bulbs and as well 2 30W 6700k T-8 bulbs totaling 2.8 watts per gallon. any help would be much appreciated!


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

I can't comment on the Red Sea products but I can say that your java Fern, anabius, and onion plants won't gain much from C02 injection as they are slow growing low light plants to start with.

I run a couple of pressurized C02 tanks (I copy Left C's setups) and I haven't seen crazy growth out of those plants no matter how well the other stuff is doing but that might just be my bad luck.

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

I have a 46 gallon Bowfront and have used the Redsea Paintball system for about 2 years.

http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...ent-Needle-Valve-for-PAINTBALL-CO2-cylinders/

At the time, it was the only paintball tank solution I could find. It works well but, feels kind of flimsy. The needlewheel adjusts quite well but, when you turn the adjustment knob, it tends to twist the tubing that rotates with it. The 20 oz tanks last about 4 weeks at 2 to 3 bps 24/7. If you are limited for space or not close to places that fill standard tanks, paintball tanks are a good compromise. There are more options now days, the Greenleaf option listed being the best and as usual the most expensive.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/4531/product.web

http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/paintball-co2-regulator.html

I currently am using a Draught Technologies Regulator that I modified with the adapter listed below.

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWER_S_EDGE_PAINTBALL_REGUL_P1954.cfm

I bought the regulator on Ebay and bought a Fabco Needlevalve and Fittings from Oregan Aqua Design

http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/i...alves/osCsid/63bc006ea144c39aa7760b3df00f650c

The Draught Technolgies was a great buy for $32.00 but took alittle time to get the parts together. Advantage being that I can change it back when I can get standard tanks filled locally and get a stand that would fit the standard tank.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Even if you have slow growing plants, co2 makes keeping algae at bay a lot easier.


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

bosmahe1 said:


> Even if you have slow growing plants, co2 makes keeping algae at bay a lot easier.


Sorry but I can't agree with that, C02 isn't the miracle cure all of the aquarium industry especially not when using an inferior paintball rig that's only $70 cheaper than a good pressurized rig like this greenleaf version with a needle valve to boot. Though I will take your word on the quality of the paintball units as I've never used any of them.

C02 is a complication with a good payout but it's still adding complication to a tank. For instance if you have to much light and not enough C02 you will get an algae bloom or if you have to much C02 and not enough light you will get plant wilt and an algae bloom plus possibly gasping fish.

I enjoy my C02 tanks but I don't in any way thing there superior to the majority of my other low-tech tanks nor do I think I'll be algae free just because I've added C02, if anything algae becomes far more spectacular if things go wrong in the tank verses my low flow/tech hamburger mattenfilter tanks.

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

bradac56 said:


> Sorry but I can't agree with that, C02 isn't the miracle cure all of the aquarium industry especially not when using an inferior paintball rig that's only $70 cheaper than a good pressurized rig like this greenleaf version with a needle valve to boot. Though I will take your word on the quality of the paintball units as I've never used any of them.
> 
> C02 is a complication with a good payout but it's still adding complication to a tank. For instance if you have to much light and not enough C02 you will get an algae bloom or if you have to much C02 and not enough light you will get plant wilt and an algae bloom plus possibly gasping fish.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't agree that the Smith would be more efficient than a Draught Technologies or even Red Sea. Where efficiency comes to play is in how you are diffusing the co2. Maybe if you have a dual stage regulator, you won't suffer the fabled "end of tank dump". I've run the Redsea to completely empty numerous times and never have experienced an eotd. I bought the Draught Technologies because I wanted something that felt more solid but, does it put co2 in the aquarium better? I don't think so. I could have received the same result by just buying the Fabco Needlevalve and used it with the Redsea.

Ever since I have added "pressurized" co2, It's been much easier for me to keep things in balance so I wouldn't have so much algae. I believe you that you can also have minimal algae without co2, I just haven't been as fortunate. NPTs sound interesting and lower maintenance but I think the experience level has to be there to accomplish an algae free NTP tank. It may be lower maintenance but I don't think it can be considered easier than a pressurized co2 system. Without co2, you will never grow plants as quickly as without, maybe with the exception of emersed.

I think alot of problems happen when people spend $250.00 for lighting and then try to get by with diy co2. It is just to hard to balance that. Diy co2 works fine if you limit the lighting, it might still give you some margin of error.


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## Mcjudge (Oct 12, 2009)

I had the same system on a 55 Gallon and never got my Co2 tanks to last that long. I go through a 24 oz. tank a week. I disliked the reactor! If you want a tank full of plants I don't think it will be adequate for you. I think it really depends on how much you want to run to the store and get refills. The refills here at academy for the new 24oz tanks are $4.00. I can get a refill on a 10lb. tank at a local brewing store for $20.00. All in all over time the 10lb tank will save you some money, time, energy and gas.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Mcjudge said:


> I had the same system on a 55 Gallon and never got my Co2 tanks to last that long. I go through a 24 oz. tank a week. I disliked the reactor! If you want a tank full of plants I don't think it will be adequate for you. I think it really depends on how much you want to run to the store and get refills. The refills here at academy for the new 24oz tanks are $4.00. I can get a refill on a 10lb. tank at a local brewing store for $20.00. All in all over time the 10lb tank will save you some money, time, energy and gas.


Yeah, if you have the space and someplace local to fill a 10 pounder, you are much better off. I've never used a 20 oz in a week though. I run 2 to 3 bubbles per second, 24/7 and get a month out of 20 oz. If you can't use standard tanks, it's fairly easy to modify a beveragefactory regulator for paintball and modify it back for standard tanks later.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

okay so there are alot of good points here, however i am just looking for the most economical means of supplying my aquarium with co2, i would like to use a 20pound co2 tank but i cant find one anywhere near where i live (lethbridge, alberta) also in light of some of the comments would it be worth buying co2 since my plants are all slow growers, i just recently added the 2 39w ho t5s and my hygros just blew up all the leaves expanded and grew like crazy during this time i have also added flourish excel and flourish iron everyday because my anubias have transparent leaves and yellow leaves so im trying to stop that from happening. Would it just be worth to keep going with flourish excel, i was planning on buying a 2l flourish excel for $50 CAN but now not sure if it is worth it. Thanks for all the replys and anymore answers would be much appreciated


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

Also how much co2 would be best for the plants i have? like 4 bps or 3bsp or how many ppm? thanks again


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

It depends on how much surface turbulence you have. To much turbulence and you will outgas to much co2, to little and you might not oxygenate the water enough for the fish. Generally speaking, you should be fine with 2 to 3 bps. With 2x39 watt tubes, you might do fine with the Excel since your lighting isn't to intense. The Excel will get expensive after awhile though. As far as co2 ppm, the best way to judge that is use a 4kdh drop checker. Do seach on APC, for drop checker and you will get plenty of info. If I remember correctly, 20 ppm co2 is ideal.


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

bosmahe1 said:


> Yeah, if you have the space and someplace local to fill a 10 pounder, you are much better off. I've never used a 20 oz in a week though. I run 2 to 3 bubbles per second, 24/7 and get a month out of 20 oz. If you can't use standard tanks, it's fairly easy to modify a beveragefactory regulator for paintball and modify it back for standard tanks later.


Why 24/7? plants only use C02 in light (the whole Photosynthesis thing). At "night" with the lights out they use 02 so there's no big reason to waste half of your C02. I run my C02 rig on a timer set to turn on an hour before my lights and an hour after my lights and then another timer to turn on a mostly hidden airstone right after and before the C02 turns on/off. For those that need a better source for this information than Wikipedia feel free to stop over at www.barrreport.com for Tom's explanation.

I will agree that sounds like a good starter regulator.

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

bradac56 said:


> Why 24/7? plants only use C02 in light (the whole Photosynthesis thing). At "night" with the lights out they use 02 so there's no big reason to waste half of your C02. I run my C02 rig on a timer set to turn on an hour before my lights and an hour after my lights and then another timer to turn on a mostly hidden airstone right after and before the C02 turns on/off. For those that need a better source for this information than Wikipedia feel free to stop over at www.barrreport.com for Tom's explanation.
> 
> I will agree that sounds like a good starter regulator.
> 
> - Brad


Solenoids cost about $35.00 and you have to deal with another power cord. $35.00 buys alot of co2, even with paintball bottles. I know alot of people turn on co2 an hour before lights on. I would argue that your tank won't be at 20 ppm in just 1 hour. I just don't like the idea of a coil being energized, using electricity, creating heat for 12 to 14 hours just so I can turn it off at night. Even at 2-3 bps, I am still able to have enough surface turbulence to keep the film off the surface and provide O2 for the animals. My 4 kdh drop checker is at greenish yellow. I like keeping the setup minimal unless a see an efficiency or at least a convenience advantage.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

okay well i not only have the 2 39w t5s i also have 2 30w t8s which makes for about 2.8wpg, so with that would i require co2 or would i just keep going with excel? My water turbulence is to a minimum but i just cant seen to keep the film off the top of the tank, i was thinking an adapter for my fluval 405 that way co2 loss is minimized


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

bosmahe1 said:


> Solenoids cost about $35.00 and you have to deal with another power cord. $35.00 buys alot of co2, even with paintball bottles. I know alot of people turn on co2 an hour before lights on. I would argue that your tank won't be at 20 ppm in just 1 hour. I just don't like the idea of a coil being energized, using electricity, creating heat for 12 to 14 hours just so I can turn it off at night. Even at 2-3 bps, I am still able to have enough surface turbulence to keep the film off the surface and provide O2 for the animals. My 4 kdh drop checker is at greenish yellow. I like keeping the setup minimal unless a see an efficiency or at least a convenience advantage.


Thanks for the reply I was just curious as there can't be a wrong way to do this. I also do phased lighting to simulate morning/noon/evening conditions just because I can  and it's a big show tank in the sitting room unlike the stuff down in my fish-room. While it takes a bit to get C02 fully distributed through the tank it works well for what I'm growing.

- Brad


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

marcussteenbergen said:


> okay well i not only have the 2 39w t5s i also have 2 30w t8s which makes for about 2.8wpg, so with that would i require co2 or would i just keep going with excel? My water turbulence is to a minimum but i just cant seen to keep the film off the top of the tank, i was thinking an adapter for my fluval 405 that way co2 loss is minimized


You probably have more light than you think since the wpg rule was created based on T12's and not the newer T5's so I'm leaning more towards C02 unless you want to cut out some of the light.

There's a difference between choppy breaking surface water and gentile ripples. You want at least half of the surface to ripple without breaking to get the proper amount of 02 in the tank and to keep the surface scum away. You could try a small low flow power head of the $10-$15 variety to help add circulation

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

bradac56 said:


> Thanks for the reply I was just curious as there can't be a wrong way to do this. I also do phased lighting to simulate morning/noon/evening conditions just because I can  and it's a big show tank in the sitting room unlike the stuff down in my fish-room. While it takes a bit to get C02 fully distributed through the tank it works well for what I'm growing.
> 
> - Brad


Now phased lighting, that I can fully appreciate. Maybe I should start using that second timer again. I can't wait till LED lighting becomes more affordable, so you can dim the lights and change color temperature as well.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

marcussteenbergen said:


> okay well i not only have the 2 39w t5s i also have 2 30w t8s which makes for about 2.8wpg, so with that would i require co2 or would i just keep going with excel? My water turbulence is to a minimum but i just cant seen to keep the film off the top of the tank, i was thinking an adapter for my fluval 405 that way co2 loss is minimized


Thats what happens when I respond later without rereading the post. I think with that much lighting, you'd be better off with co2. You can do diy(sugar, yeast) co2, I did it for over a year but, it's tedious and inconsistant.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

but wouldnt diy co2 be so irregular and create more problems then do any good? also i have started to get some algae cause of the increase in light, could this be reduced if regular co2 is added? I just added 5 ottos and i hope this will decrease some of the algae in the tank. Any other suggestions would help!


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

Also is there a way to turn off the co2 flow without a solenoid? if so how can i do this? Would it really be worth buying a solenoid or would just running the co2 all day and night and then an air stone at night be best?


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

If money is not your driving factor then pressurized C02 is the only way to go with that much light. But for most people money is the problem and they opt for Excel or DIY C02.

If it was me I'd get the Greenleaf kit, it's a good beginner setup the only change I'd make to it at some point down the road is change the needle valve to an Ideal version but other than that it's a great mid-price option.

- Brad


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

Thanks everyone for your opinions i just started to get a lot of algae and i dont know if co2 would get rid of that!


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

Also no one has answered this question yet but can you turn off the flow of co2 without a solenoid? and is bad if the time the co2 is on changes? like i know lights should go on and off at a regular time is that the same for co2?


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

No you need a solenoid the only other way is to block the line but that would cause a buildup of pressure.

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

marcussteenbergen said:


> Also no one has answered this question yet but can you turn off the flow of co2 without a solenoid? and is bad if the time the co2 is on changes? like i know lights should go on and off at a regular time is that the same for co2?


Manually. Either close the valve on the co2 canister(if its non paintball) or turn working pressure to zero on the regulator. I wouldn't advise closing the needle valve, that would lead to premature wear.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

bradac56 said:


> Why 24/7? plants only use C02 in light (the whole Photosynthesis thing). At "night" with the lights out they use 02 so there's no big reason to waste half of your C02. I run my C02 rig on a timer set to turn on an hour before my lights and an hour after my lights and then another timer to turn on a mostly hidden airstone right after and before the C02 turns on/off. For those that need a better source for this information than Wikipedia feel free to stop over at www.barrreport.com for Tom's explanation.
> 
> I will agree that sounds like a good starter regulator.
> 
> - Brad


Brad,

I think I'm gonna try your method. I'm ordering a solenoid today. I'm thinking of putting the solenoid on the same timer as two bulbs for 12 hours and have the second set of bulbs starting three hours later for 8 hours. 3 hours for co2 to build up before full "sunshine" and 1 hour for "sundown". The 12 hour period will be 10:00 am to 10:00 pm. So how do you think this will work out? Do you have recommendations for a solenoid brand? I have to run it inline.


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

In good faith I'll have to admit to cheating as I buy whatever C02 hardware Left_C says he has so I'd ask him to chime in here for his recommendations.

I'm running a Victor dual stage regulator, Burkert solenoid, and Ideal needle valve.
I love everything about them except the price.

- Brad


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## orlando (Feb 14, 2007)

bradac56 said:


> If money is not your driving factor then pressurized C02 is the only way to go with that much light. But for most people money is the problem and they opt for Excel or DIY C02.
> 
> If it was me I'd get the Greenleaf kit, it's a good beginner setup the only change I'd make to it at some point down the road is change the needle valve to an Ideal version but other than that it's a great mid-price option.
> 
> - Brad


 Hi Brad

What is wrong with the valve?


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

There's nothing wrong with the Fabco valve it's a good product for the price but the Ideal is a much better design where's the Fabco is 'solid' the Ideal is 'overbuilt' there's nothing else in the price range that compares unless you want to spend real money on a Swagelok brute.

I'd recommend your 'Ultimate' regulator kit to anyone looking to get into pressurized C02 without hesitation but I've graduated up to the point where I want it to work even during a nuke attack so that I never have to tinker with it outside of filling the tank.

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Brad,

Do you by chance hava link to where you purchased the Burkert solenoid? Can you tell me the model number?


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

It's a 6011

[ http://www.aquariumplants.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BU6011&CartID=1 ]


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

bradac56 said:


> It's a 6011
> 
> [ http://www.aquariumplants.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BU6011&CartID=1 ]


Thanks Brad,

What kind of lighting, co2 schedule are you running currently?


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bosmahe1 said:


> Manually. Either close the valve on the co2 canister(if its non paintball) or turn working pressure to zero on the regulator. I wouldn't advise closing the needle valve, that would lead to premature wear.


So what you are saying is that i shouldnt close the needle value? cause that is what the owners manual says, but that would cause other wear and tear? and so it would be best to just turn the regulator off?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Yeah that's what I would do if I didn't have the solenoid to shut it off at night.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

so is 1 bar the best co2 absorption rate? because my regulator goes up to about 3 and i dont know which one would be better?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

marcussteenbergen said:


> so is 1 bar the best co2 absorption rate? because my regulator goes up to about 3 and i dont know which one would be better?


1 Bar should be good, its about 15 or 16 psi.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

So i ended up getting the red sea system because all the systems everyone mentioned were not sold in canada, and to order them through the states would cost more money. However i placed the co2 reactor in one corner of the tank, will the co2 be evenly dispersed through out the tank if the reactor is in only one corner or should it be moved to the middle? Also only one side of my tank plants is pearling could that bbe due to the fact that the co2 is in that corner of the tank?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

It sounds like you need more flow. It is important that the co2 and ferts get disbursed throughout the tank.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bosmahe1 said:


> It sounds like you need more flow. It is important that the co2 and ferts get disbursed throughout the tank.


I have a fluval 405 which is rated for 100g and i get alot of flow and the co2 indicator that came with the red sea kit was blue which is low co2 and now when i put it one this morning it is green which is a good lvl of co2 so i dont think it has to do with flow unless the indicator is faulty. Also would only like 2bps be sufficient i only had the needle value giving off like 2 bps and the indicator said the co2 lvls were good


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

bosmahe1 said:


> Thanks Brad,
> 
> What kind of lighting, co2 schedule are you running currently?


Sorry I missed this question, I'm running a AHSupply 2x55w Bright Kit plus two jury rigged 1x36w Bright Kits. I'm running the C02 an hour before and an hour after the lights go out. I'm thinking about changing that to when the first 36w goes on and the turn it off before the last 36w goes off since the tank is in dawn/dusk light levels when the 55w is off.

- Brad


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

marcussteenbergen said:


> I have a fluval 405 which is rated for 100g and i get alot of flow and the co2 indicator that came with the red sea kit was blue which is low co2 and now when i put it one this morning it is green which is a good lvl of co2 so i dont think it has to do with flow unless the indicator is faulty. Also would only like 2bps be sufficient i only had the needle value giving off like 2 bps and the indicator said the co2 lvls were good


Are using 4 kdh water in the co2 indicator (drop checker) or are you using aquarium water in there?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

bradac56 said:


> Sorry I missed this question, I'm running a AHSupply 2x55w Bright Kit plus two jury rigged 1x36w Bright Kits. I'm running the C02 an hour before and an hour after the lights go out. I'm thinking about changing that to when the first 36w goes on and the turn it off before the last 36w goes off since the tank is in dawn/dusk light levels when the 55w is off.
> 
> - Brad


Do you find turning co2 on 1 hour in advance of lights sufficient? I have a 4x39 watt T5HO light that I currently run for 10 hours straight. When my solenoid gets here, I was thinking of turning on 1 pair for 11 hours along with co2 and turn on the 2 second pair for 8 hours, ending with only the second pair on for the final hour adding up to a 12 hour day. Co2 would be turned off 1 hour early with 1st pair. I'm not sure of the algae implications of doing this.


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

So far everything is growing with very minimal algae that's controlled by my cleanup crew and I have very good growth enough that my clippings have been fleshing out the rest of my fish-room.

The only downside to these types of lighting schemes is that it's very dependent on the tank and everything else. My current show tank is probably smaller than most people's here so I get better light penetration than on a 55+ tank that and I'm always tinkering. 

- Brad


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bosmahe1 said:


> Are using 4 kdh water in the co2 indicator (drop checker) or are you using aquarium water in there?


No i am using distilled bottled water! why does that make a difference? will that effect my co2 output or my results?
Also on a different note i have accumulated alot of algae before i got my co2 system because i had so much lighting now that i have co2 im trying to get rid of the co2, does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get rid of it? My 2x30w t8s are on from 715 to 715 (the same time as my co2) and then my 2x39w t5s go on from 8 till 5, also i only have one betta and 10 otocinclus in the tank right now but yet the algae is not going away, everytime i scrape it away i comes back. Also does anyone know the best way to remove algae off gravel without disturbing it too much? thanks again


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

marcussteenbergen said:


> No i am using distilled bottled water! why does that make a difference? will that effect my co2 output or my results?
> Also on a different note i have accumulated alot of algae before i got my co2 system because i had so much lighting now that i have co2 im trying to get rid of the co2, does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get rid of it? My 2x30w t8s are on from 715 to 715 (the same time as my co2) and then my 2x39w t5s go on from 8 till 5, also i only have one betta and 10 otocinclus in the tank right now but yet the algae is not going away, everytime i scrape it away i comes back. Also does anyone know the best way to remove algae off gravel without disturbing it too much? thanks again


Distilled water doesn't have any buffering in it so, it would display acidic (yellow) on a ph chart.

4 kdh water has the correct amount of buffering (kh) so the correct amount of co2 in the water would display green on the drop checker. You can make it your self, there is a thread explaining how to. If you prefer to buy it ready made, you can get at the following links:

http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-drop-checkers/kh-standard.html

http://www.sumoregulator.com/DropCheckerSolutions.html


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bosmahe1 said:


> Distilled water doesn't have any buffering in it so, it would display acidic (yellow) on a ph chart.
> 
> 4 kdh water has the correct amount of buffering (kh) so the correct amount of co2 in the water would display green on the drop checker. You can make it your self, there is a thread explaining how to. If you prefer to buy it ready made, you can get at the following links:
> 
> ...


Okay so how do i get 4kdh water or is aquarium water fine? The ph checker that came with the red sea co2 setup is green like it is suppose to be, and it is on the total opposite of the co2 reactor and the ph checker thing was blue before i had co2 which meant co2 levels were low but now it is green which is good?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

marcussteenbergen said:


> Okay so how do i get 4kdh water or is aquarium water fine? The ph checker that came with the red sea co2 setup is green like it is suppose to be, and it is on the total opposite of the co2 reactor and the ph checker thing was blue before i had co2 which meant co2 levels were low but now it is green which is good?


Aquarium water often has phosphates which will buffer the water and have an affect on PH. The drop checker is basically measuring PH which is affected by kh and the amount of co2 you are adding. The co2 added to water makes carbonic acid and lowers PH. Using the co2 chart, green equates to 30 ppm co2 and a kh of 4. If you were to increase the buffering with phosphate in the test water, the green indicator would no longer be accurate since it is based on a kh of 4.

I hope the above is understandable, put simply, the drop checker needs water with a kh of 4 to be accurate when displaying green as 30 ppm co2. Aquarium water will not be accurate, you can buy the 4 kdh water from the links in my previous post.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bosmahe1 said:


> I hope the above is understandable, put simply, the drop checker needs water with a kh of 4 to be accurate when displaying green as 30 ppm co2. Aquarium water will not be accurate, you can buy the 4 kdh water from the links in my previous post.


Okay so if the i used aquarium water would you assume that my co2 level is higher or lower than what the ph drop checker states?

Also another question on a different note i dont have a solenoid on my red sea pressurized co2 tank system so i turn the co2 on when the lights go on and i turn the co2 off when the lights go off, would it just be better to leave the co2 on all night? I know alot of ppl just leave it on but what would be best for growing plants and reducing algae?


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

Follow the first link and look at the card on the extreme right.

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/images/graphics/phlowhighrange2.jpg

If you notice, the green represents a ph of 6.6. Look at the ph co2 kh table at the bottom of the link below:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

cross reference ph of 6.6 with kh of 4 and you will see that equates to 30 ppm co2.

If the buffering (kh) is changed by phosphate then the comparison will be incorrect.


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

People leave there C02 running at night because it's easier and cheaper than buying a solenoid and timer but plants do not use C02 without lights they use O2 and produce (exhale) C02 due to photosynthesis so your just wasting gas at that point but it's up to you.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bradac56 said:


> People leave there C02 running at night because it's easier and cheaper than buying a solenoid and timer but plants do not use C02 without lights they use O2 and produce (exhale) C02 due to photosynthesis so your just wasting gas at that point but it's up to you.


Okay ill take a look at that chart and see.
Okay that i do understand that i am wasting gas, but how long does it take to building up to the correct co2 lvl after the lights go on? thats my real question is it worth leaving it on?


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

It takes an hour to two hours depending on the tank size and bubble count but it's easier for me as my strongest lighting doesn't kick in until 11:00am and then kicks off at 3:00pm but I still have 36w bulbs running before and after that.

- Brad


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## addicted2reefin (Oct 2, 2009)

im thinking of gettin the taam rio single gauge reg for 30 bucks at that pet place.


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bradac56 said:


> It takes an hour to two hours depending on the tank size and bubble count but it's easier for me as my strongest lighting doesn't kick in until 11:00am and then kicks off at 3:00pm but I still have 36w bulbs running before and after that.
> 
> - Brad


Well if my 2 30w t8 bulbs come on at 715 and go off at 715 at night then my 2 39w ho t5s come on at 9 and go off at 5 would this be enough time to get the right co2 lvl for a 50 gallon tank? do you think there is a better time for my lights to go on and off cause i have alot of algae and i dont know how to reduce this, also how many bps would be best for my co2?


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## bradac56 (May 9, 2007)

Reduce the algae by not using as much light, only run your HO T5's for four hours and the T8's for eight. If the tanks do not get any direct natural sunlight then it doesn't matter what the real time is when the lights are on or off. My basement fishroom doesn't have any windows so the tank lights are set for when I'm in there and the most active not what the fish would like (since they can't tell anyway).

As long as your supplying enought O2, C02, and ferts the plants will eventually out produce the algae and win the battle. 

I target for the standard 30ppm for my drop checkers but that's a personal thing.

- Brad


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## marcussteenbergen (Oct 4, 2009)

bradac56 said:


> Reduce the algae by not using as much light, only run your HO T5's for four hours and the T8's for eight. If the tanks do not get any direct natural sunlight then it doesn't matter what the real time is when the lights are on or off.


Okay the tank gets no nature sunlight but what you said leads to another question i know that certain plants like my onion plant needs high levels of light and if the lights are on for such a short period how will the plants get enough light for photosynthesis?


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