# AM Reactor 1000?



## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

I have bought a AM Reactor 1000.

My external filter (TetraTec EX1200) have these dimensions on the hoses: 16/22mm
The Reactor is made to match filter with 12/16mm hoses!  

What should I do?!?!?!
HELP?


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

Ouch! Don't fret. I had a similar issue when trying to connect an inline heater. Head over to your local hardware store and see if they have the hose reducer and fittings so that you get get it connected. 

-John N.


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## freydo (Jan 7, 2006)

you can get some hose clamps to attach the filter hose from home depot.


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## gibmaker (Jan 3, 2007)

I use the small stainless steel worm drive hose clamps, they seem to work well.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Eheim has various reducers for their tubing. They have 16/22mm to 12/16mm barbed tubing reducers. Here's their part no: 4004980 Reducing piece from Ø 16/22 mm to Ø 12/16 mm
Just put in the part number and you can see them. http://www.eheimparts.com/client/homepage.aspx

Here's a place in the US for grey polyethyene ones. You can use this for reference. I know that you are in Sweden.

AES has 5/8" x 1/2" barbed tubing reducers: http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/4228

Part Number: 62050 Tubing Adapters, Connectors, 5/8" barb x 1/2" barb In Stock $0.85

I'm pretty sure that you can find these in Sweden in a hardware store.

Many people just use the worm drive hose clamps like mentioned above and don't bother with the reducer going from 16/22mm or 5/8" tubing to a 12/16mm or 1/2" fitting. They just tighten them down really tight.


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

Yes! I've found fittings from 16/22mm to 12/16mm! =)
But it'll surely take a week or two before they come to me and I'm pretty impatient to use the reactor before then, so I'm going to put the Reactor in the 16/22mm hoses and try, of course with "hose-stripes" (if you know what I mean).
If that doen't work (as an temporary solution) I'll try to put an loose 12/16mm hose on the AM Reaktor and then 16/22mm hose over it, and then I'll use "hose-stripes" again =)

Hope that you can understand my bad english =)


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## Ulan (Oct 2, 2006)

Leonard said:


> If that doen't work (as an temporary solution) I'll try to put an loose 12/16mm hose on the AM Reaktor and then 16/22mm hose over it, and then I'll use "hose-stripes" again =)


That's what I usually do in cases like that. Just don't make the piece of smaller tubing too short.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

I've also just used hose clamps.


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Not to jack your thread...but what's the best way to attach ribbed Fluval hoses to something like this?


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

epicfish: I would have used hose clamps =)

http://bp1.blogger.com/_u1fGoxLr_9s/RgV_W8f7_iI/AAAAAAAAAQk/zNovCx5oPMo/s1600-h/34.jpg
I've started the reactor, on the 16/22mm hose and I've been pressureing the hose clamps quite hard around the hose, so I think it'll work now.
I've also ordered adapters, from 12/16mm to 16/22mm, so they'll probably come here soon, then I'll use them instead of this temporary solution.

http://bp0.blogger.com/_u1fGoxLr_9s/RgV-zsf7_hI/AAAAAAAAAQc/v6u3ud4JYcM/s1600-h/23.jpg
But I've an other problem:
There are coming out a little bit of water trough the silicon stripe, at the ventilation valve :S What should I do. I'd like to not leave it back and get a new one, because it takes time... But if that's the only way to go I'll do it.
Anyone here don't know if you can put some glue on the leak? What kind of glue then?? Where can I buy it (in Sweden)?


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## Ulan (Oct 2, 2006)

Leonard said:


> But I've an other problem:
> There are coming out a little bit of water trough the silicon stripe, at the ventilation valve :S What should I do. I'd like to not leave it back and get a new one, because it takes time... But if that's the only way to go I'll do it.
> Anyone here don't know if you can put some glue on the leak? What kind of glue then?? Where can I buy it (in Sweden)?


That's not silicon, that's teflon tape. It look as if it's torn where at the interface.

You should get a role of teflon tape (costs 50 cents here), open the screw and replace the teflon tape. It's a bit tricky to find the right amount. You have to put it roughly twice around the thread, and if you take too much or not enough or get wrinkles in it, it will leak. However, that's usually easy to solve .

You should get the tape at a plumber's or tool shop.


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

ok. I sounds risky to mee :S

I think I'll change in the shop, if i starts leaking again (it haven't leaked since easterday night.)


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## Ulan (Oct 2, 2006)

Leonard said:


> ok. I sounds risky to mee :S
> 
> I think I'll change in the shop, if i starts leaking again (it haven't leaked since easterday night.)


It's not risky. You may just need two or three attempts if you never did this before. Which takes altogether five minutes, maximally . If it works, it works. Just don't open and close the nut again after you exchanged the tape. I probably made it sound like more of a hassle than it actually is. Sorry for that.


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

Okey =)

I've seen any leak since yeasterday, so I hope it's all clear. I'll see....


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

I've tried with around 1.5-2bps trough the reactor and it seems like almost every thing just lays in the top of reactor. It doesn't work well at all 
I drive it with a TetraTec EX1200 external filter (1200l/h, but I think it's around 700l/h). I can't belive this deosn't work 
Any suggestion's of what I'll dp with it, to make it better?


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

Do you think that the gas trapped at the top is just mostly air? You can open the bleed valve to let it out. Then you can see if it's dissolving CO2 or not.


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

No, it's CO2. At the night the reacotor diffuse the gas (when I stop pushing in more CO2) and if the gas would be air, it would not happened anything, so I'm very sure of that the gas is CO2.

I really can't understand why it don't want to work?


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

I had this happen in my DIY reactor with my old filter and it worked fine. In fact the CO2 level was at 30ppm with only 1.5 bps. Now I've stuck a more powerful filter on I don't get the build up, but I've had to increase the bps to keep the CO2 at 30ppm.

I wouldn't worry about it. All I did was turn off the CO2 an hour before lights out so that the build up diffused when the plants could use it.


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

Ok, I'll test the water and if how much CO2 there is in it.

I'm going to drive CO2 trough the filter first so that the rest (undissvolved CO2 from external filter) of be diffused in the AM Reactor 1000.
I'll also try to reduce power from external filter, but I don't think it will help, it just can't be to strong torrent :S
If I don't get the slot of gas away out of the reactor, I'll turn it back to the shop and build a other kind of reactor in the aqaurium I think, but it's really nice to have it outside the aquarium, so that it doesn't take any room.


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

That metod didn't work good niether 
But today I've meassured that my filter capacity is 360l/h, i.e. around 1/4 of the recommended stregnth :S Not strange that it doesn't work!
I'm going to buy a new external filter, a Eheim Professional II 2028, I belive it's going to be. Or do you think it's will be TOO strong for my 160l tank??


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## ed seeley (Dec 1, 2006)

I run a 2128 on my 180l tank with my external reactor and it works great. I turn the filter down, but mainly to prevent all the CO2 bubbles being blown straight out of the reactor.

A 2028 on your tank should work great and the amount of media room in the filter is amazing!

However, the filter output of this model is 750lph, so will only be a bit over twice your present circulation. I think it should be fine, but if you said the reactor wants about 4 times this may not be enough?


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## Leonard (Mar 4, 2007)

well the reactor is also made for aquariums up to 2000l, so the Eheim filter (which is pumping around 750l/h) sure would do fine, I think it would, but haven't anyone a tried this reactor?


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