# Newbie, new 20g, need evals



## Bombay (Mar 6, 2006)

Tank has been set up for approx 5 days. 3 of those with full light. CO2 running for a few days.

20 gallon high (12x18x24)
Eheim 2026
Eco-Complete as substrate
65 watts CF (10 hour photo period)
Hagen yeast CO2 with bubble ladder (currently 3-4 bubbles per minute)
Various crypts, vals, swords, cabomba, rotala indica, micro swords, anacharis, java fern, sagittaria, aponogeton
No fish (yet)

pH 7.5 (Hanna tester)
GH 120-140ppm
KH 90-100ppm
Nitrites .25ppm
Nitrates 10ppm
Phosphates 1.0
Iron undetectable
Copper .15-.25ppm
CO2 6-7.5 (using Chuck’s calculator)
Ammonia .25-.50
Temp 70’F

I’ve read that the tank should sit idle for approx 4 weeks before adding ferts. I have the Seachem products ready to go (Nitrogen, Potassium, Flourish). I don’t have Phosphorus, but it looks like my specs are okay in this area anyway. Eventually I will probably graduate to the GW ferts.  

pH has dropped very slightly (-.10) over last day or two…probably due to the CO2 being added.

Couple questions:
1)	How are my current specs?
2)	Do I need to try to measure the level of potassium, or just assume 0 and dose per instructions?
3)	Not sure how the ammonia is in there, unless some of the roots/plant material is decaying. I do have the Sagittaria in which a few leaves are getting soft (melting). Should the ammonia level be of concern? Partial water change, or let it run the cycle.
4)	Should I wait the 2-4 weeks as suggested before dosing?
5)	What next?

Thanks for your time.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

You're current specs look good. It looks like you've done your homework! 

Potassium is only used in small amounts, so i think it's safe to assume it's near zero and dose sparingly from there. 

The ammonia is probably being released by some dead leaves.But it sounds like your tank is pretty well stocked, and so therefore there is no need to worry much about this "mini cycle."

I've never heard to wait before dosing. As long as you have the ferts, co2, and lights all set for your plants. You're good to dose from day one. I actually recommend it so your plants can gather the nutrients and take a good foothold in the aquarium before the algae does. 

What happen's next is you keep us updated on your progress, add fish, and show us your tank!  You have everything in good order, and I think you'll have a lot of fun and progress with this current setup.

-John N.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

Hey Bombay, 

It looks like you're on your way. My only concern with your numbers are the CO2. Hopefully once the diy cranks in you will get the numbers higher than the 6-7.5 which you stated on your post. If you can't get them higher, I would consider using some Excel with your lighting numbers. 

As John said, start with the ferts right away. 

On the pH/CO2 front, yes your pH will drop as the CO2 dissolves into the water. What you want to achieve is approximate a 1.0 drop in pH from your equiliabrated tank water. Take a sample of your tank water and let it sit out on your counter top for 24 hours, and measure the pH. Whatever the value, the goal for your tank should be 1.0 unit below that. That will yield approx 30ppm of CO2 for your tank. 

Keep us posted on your progress.


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## Bombay (Mar 6, 2006)

Thanks guys. I REALLY appreciate the feedback...a encouragement. I can read all I want, but the jumping off point is what kills ya!

I've read in a couple 'guides' to wait anywhere from a couple days to 4 weeks. I guess this is basically to see how things stabilize before 'moving the bar' on ferts, etc.

"Turn on the lights and wait a couple of days. 
Then add some fish and start fertilizing."
http://www.rexgrigg.com/./cycle.htm

"When should I start fertilizing my tank? 
It is common practice to allow the plants to get established in your tank for about 4 weeks or so before they show a need for fertilizers. This time could be longer in a lower lighted tank or sooner in a higher watt situation. The only way to know when to start is by watching the plants health. Growth rate is normally slow in a new tank but plant health is easily determined."
http://www.plantedtank.net/articles/Basics-to-starting-a-Planted-Tank/4/

Yes, appears the small hagen setup might not cut it. I can either add the standard diy bottles or get another hagen bottle. I actually like the look and feel and construction of the hagen bottles. I thought about supping with Excel, but wasn't sure.

I think I am having some die off on the sagittaria. Some of the leaves have collapsed and are falling apart. Is this plant hard to keep? Just about everything else is doing okay.

Thanks BertH. I will do the test you mentioned. It is getting clearer by the day! Thanks.

I did take a few pics for Day 1. I will upload 1 or 2 later today/this evening. Check back and give me your opinions. That is the scary part.


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## Bombay (Mar 6, 2006)

Pics added. Please be nice! :croc: This was on the first day of setup with light. Click on the thumbnail to open a new window.


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## Krisybabe9 (Mar 21, 2006)

I'm sorry, the links aren't working for me....maybe it's just me, but can you try again....or someone else see if it works for them?


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## Bombay (Mar 6, 2006)

Not sure what happened. Try the new links though.


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## Bert H (Mar 2, 2004)

Looks great!


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## trenac (Jul 16, 2004)

Bombay... I really like your layout, the wood laying on the substrate is cool looking. Your Eco looks more like dirt then gravel, but I like it that way. I would just add some more plants.


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## Bombay (Mar 6, 2006)

Thanks Trenac!

Hey everyone, I dosed for the first time last night. Based on the specs above, I just dosed seachem potassium and flourish. I think my nitrates are up high enough for now. Also, still some ammonia in the tank so didn't think I needed. I do believe I need to get some iron though. I didn't dose phosphates either do to the specs above.

Any thoughts/comments/suggestions?


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