# Killing BBA



## Gumby (Aug 1, 2005)

I'm currently in the process of a 4 day blackout to kill BGA and Staghorn algae. I also have a lot of BBA showing up on the gravel and I was wondering if anyone thought that the blackout would kill the BBA as well? I've cranked up the CO2 as high as it can go without over running my reactor (AM1000 with Mag350 pump) and the BBA only seems to be getting worse. 

If not, how about dosing Excel? I've got a 125 gallon tank so it would require a lot of Excel, but that's not a problem because I have access to a 6 gallon bucket of the stuff. Here's my only quarrel with using Excel: will it kill my shrimp? I've got Amano shrimp, Cherries, and Red Nose. I heard from a friend that higher doses of Excel are dangerous to shrimp. Anyone tried this out or know if it's true?


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## brad (Jul 10, 2005)

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/showthread.php?t=3806&highlight=excel


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

You need to figure out a better way to use the CO2 you have, I'd suggest a better pump to run the CO2 through the reactor.

And a higher flow inside the tank to help mix the CO2.
You can have some surface movement(I'd suggest you do), but not a torrent.

BBA is not caused by a lack of Excel, but rather poor CO2 levels for a giev light level. Excel will add carbon, but you should work on the CO2 more and get it running properly.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Gumby (Aug 1, 2005)

My problem is that I've got a sump with an overflow box. I've covered up the overflow box with plastic wrap to prevent gas loss there. I figured I was losing the most via the overflow box due to all the surface movement. My return pump is rated for up to 1280gph(tank was orginally set up for Piranhas) but it's 4 years old and has about 5 ft head on it, so I know I don't get the full 1280. 

The next place I know I'm losing gas is in the sump its self. I know the bio balls is the perfect place for gas loss. But when it comes to sealing off the sump, there's no way to do it realy. Not with the CO2 reactor hanging on the side and having to remove the drip tray all the time. 

Seems like I'm kinda SOL on this one. What would be the max flow rate reccomended on the AM1000 reactor? I thought that 350GPH would be plenty.


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## plantbrain (Jan 23, 2004)

Okay, we will work through this. I've solved enough sump related issues over the years.

Duct tape up any leaks, vents, anywhere that air can exchange in the sump wet/dry section. The balls will not degas if the system is sealed, once it travels down to the water level in the sump, the degas part is over, so you need to seal only the top part.

Raise the level in the over flow if possible.

Make your own DIY CO2 reactor, very easy, very cheap and very effective.
I'll post my version, that's 10 year's old at least, that kicks any reactor's butt.
I use this design on 2000 gal tanks, I know it works well.

Give me a few days to get it posted on my site.

The reactor is in the sump correct?
Feed the return directly into the suction side of return pump. Place the intake for the magnum at the other end of the sump(farthest away from the intake as you can).

Regards, 
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com


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## Gumby (Aug 1, 2005)

> Raise the level in the over flow if possible.


I just installed some standpipes about a month ago 



> Make your own DIY CO2 reactor, very easy, very cheap and very effective.
> I'll post my version, that's 10 year's old at least, that kicks any reactor's butt.
> I use this design on 2000 gal tanks, I know it works well.


I'm stubborn and I paid a decent amount of money for the AM1000 reactor, I'd perfer to make this one work 



> The reactor is in the sump correct?


Correct.



> Feed the return directly into the suction side of return pump. Place the intake for the magnum at the other end of the sump(farthest away from the intake as you can).


Aleady had it that way  Mag drive on one side of the sump and reactor on the other(right by return pump).

I'll do my best to work on sealing off the sump. Is it absolutely essential that I get it 100% covered or are some gaps alright? I know it will be less efficient if it's not 100% sealed, but would it be pointless if it's not? I'm thinking it's going to be difficult to seal the sump around the cords and hoses going into it. Guess I could always use duct tape. My main concern with the sump being sealed is that it's going to be difficult to get into when I need to clean filter pads, dose ferts, fix possible problems, etc.

Thanks a lot for the help Tom!


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