# Couple quick questions for convert



## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Hello!

I've kept one to three tanks going for a little over a decade or so. Lately I'm down to just one, and since I moved about 5 years ago it has been neglected and degenerating. The reasons are myriad, but suffice to say I'm energized about the hobby once more and looking to rebuild the tank with Walstad's methods. I won't bore you with the history of the tank but rather get to a few quick questions I am left with after reading the book.

1) This forum, and the book, recommend a submerged power head with a quick filter. They are so casually advised that I expected a host of choices and models to choose from. But my usual source, Foster and Smith, only lists a single "quick filter" that made by Hagen. It attaches to a power head that isn't listed as submersible. So, am I missing something? Can someone point me to the kind of power head and quick filter that this method recommends? Could I shove that Hagen quick filter onto the intake of any power head? For a 30 gallon show, how many GPH will I need?

2) My only worry about this method is that I may be using too much light. I am sick, and sick, and sick and tired of my impossible to keep clean glass hood and lay on the top ballast. To that end I plan to build the tank sans hood (hoping for eye catching emergent growth) and with the Coral Life raised ballast seen here: Aqualight. With the single bulb version it lists at 96 watts of compact flourescent. The tank will necessarily (and unfortunately) have no direct sunlight access. Will this slightly elevated system provide too much light?

I think that's about it. Forgive me if I've missed a standard sotre of this knowledge somewhere on the forum. I've been lurking the "how to / example" threads as much as possible, but the last posts on many of those are quite old. If this is the wrong place for this post please just direct me where I could find this info on my own.

Thanks so much for your time!

Excited to be excited again,

Roderic

P.S. Has anyone made a successful Walstad aquarium out of an Eclipse 6? I have an old one kicking about I was thinking of turning into a test / quarantine / breeding tank. Kind of pitiful little lamp in it. It's samll enough I could probably figure out a window to put it near though. Thanks again.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Ack, forgot one more question.

I have a number of attractive pieces of Mopani wood. I love the look but I think I remember them acting to soften the water. If that is right I should leave them out, correct?

Thanks again!


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## cs_gardener (Apr 28, 2006)

The AquaClear powerhead is submersible even if they aren't specifically stating it. I have several of them completely submersed in various tanks with no problems. The quickfilter is what was mentioned by Walstad. The filter media can be replaced by micron filter pads cut to size once it gets too dirty to clean (you can find the micron filter pads at Drs Foster & Smith in their mechanical filter media section). I'm also using MaxiJet powerheads with a sponge prefilter on a couple tanks and they works quite well too. With the AquaClear powerhead, I'd get a stronger one like the 350 (or more) as you are able to decrease the flow if you want. When you have the quickfilter in place that cuts down on the flow and as the filter gets clogged it slows things down even more. For the MaxiJets it's harder because there is no flow control. I have a 900 with sponge prefilter on a 33 tall tank and that's plenty of flow.

Initially I thought 96 watts on a 30 sounded like a lot, but I have 2x65watts on that 33 I mentioned and things are growing great with minimal algae problems (green spot on glass). It's hard to know for any given setup though. I started out with lower light and got the higher light after the tank was well established. I think you might be hounded by algae problems at first until your plants get well-established.

Driftwood can add tannins to the water and I believe make the water a little more acidic. I have naturally soft water, plus driftwood, plus a little aragonite sand to counteract the first two and everything is doing fine. Some fish and plants prefer softer more acidic water so it really depends on what you want to keep. 

p.s. Welcome to APC and I'm glad your excited about the hobby again!


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Great, thanks for your reply! Very much appreciate the info on the Hagen power heads and am glad to hear they work well for you. I'll give them a try.

Looks like things are go!

I'll be making a big order from Foster and Smith then and will take pictures of my progress. That is unless anyone else has something more to add!

Oh, one more thing, what's a good source for the size of gravel Walstad recommends? I read on thread where the person said they used "pool filter media". Is that something I could dig up at a place like Home Depot?

Take care!


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## cs_gardener (Apr 28, 2006)

I think you'd have to go to a pool supply store for pool filter media. I originally used Eco Complete by itself before converting to a soil underlayer so I've used the Eco as a cap in most of my tanks as it's a great size and color. You certainly don't need to spend the money on it though for a NPT. I know some people use Soil Master Select but I've never found a source for it around here.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Hmm... yeah, Eco Complete was the substrate I was going to use for the rebuild before I found Walstad's book. One of the benefits was not having to fork out all that cash. Guess I'll look arond for suitably small gravel. If anyone can point me to a source I'd appreciate it!


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

cs_gardener said:


> The AquaClear powerhead is submersible even if they aren't specifically stating it. I have several of them completely submersed in various tanks with no problems. The quickfilter is what was mentioned by Walstad. The filter media can be replaced by micron filter pads cut to size once it gets too dirty to clean (you can find the micron filter pads at Drs Foster & Smith in their mechanical filter media section). I'm also using MaxiJet powerheads with a sponge prefilter on a couple tanks and they works quite well too. With the AquaClear powerhead, I'd get a stronger one like the 350 (or more) as you are able to decrease the flow if you want. When you have the quickfilter in place that cuts down on the flow and as the filter gets clogged it slows things down even more. For the MaxiJets it's harder because there is no flow control. I have a 900 with sponge prefilter on a 33 tall tank and that's plenty of flow.


As I put together my order I notice that I don't see a Hagen "350", either model number or flow rate. Have they changed their product line naming system?

Also, is there a specific sponge pre-filter to use on the Maxi-Jet? I'd very much like to make that work as they are much less expensive and this order is getting pricey!

Thanks as always!


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## bratyboy2 (Feb 5, 2008)

rehjac WELCOME BACK TO THE HOBBY!!!!

okay read everything and i agree with cs_gardener.

pool filter sand is at the pool supply place i got mine at lighthouse pool and spa. $7 a gag and they are big i think its 40lbs?

any gravel is good more like common gravel nothing bigger then pea gravel really. 

you really should get some pics up of the tank i want to what you are working with.

do you know what kind of plants and fish you got in mind?


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## cs_gardener (Apr 28, 2006)

Oh jeez, I was reading the flow rate on the AquaClear instead of the model #. Sorry! I was referring to the MODEL #70 which has a flow rate of 350 gph w/o air that will be reduced with the quickfilter, etc. 

On the MaxiJet page on Drs Foster & Smith site you'll see prefilter sponge 2 pack for $7.99. It's just a basic black cylindrical sponge with a cross cut through the length so you can fit it over the strainer guard for the intake. It comes with a strainer intake to use with the sponge, but so does the powerhead itself so you could just buy a cheap sponge, cut an opening in one end and use it with the powerhead. I plan to do that in the future when the sponges I have degrade. The MaxiJet is a good, reasonably quiet, powerful powerhead and is significantly less expensive than the AquaClear. I have 2 that have been in use for about 5 months and they are doing very well so far.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words.

I live in a small town and don't think there's a pool store around. However there are numerous landscaping business. Maybe I can get one them to sell me a tiny quantity of small gravel. Not sure it'll be small enough though.

It's not really worth taking pictures at the moment since nothing is really going to be left after I rebuild. I'm currently only running a 30 gallon show with an Emperor 400, two bulb strip, gravel, one smallish Mopani, one enormous Mopani, and what's left of the Anubias Barterii that once took over the tank. Surviving, barely, are a black pleco, large-ish (5" or so) semi-metallic torpedo guy of unknown species with a smart black racing stripe down his middle, the sole survivor of a school of cardinal tetra, and two corys, again of unknown species, one of which was born in the tank.

Oh how I've let this tank fall. :-({|=:icon_oak::Cry:

I plan on completely rebuilding the 30, an old Eclipse 6 and buying an Eclipse Hex 5. (They are on an unbelievable sale at the local Petco. Cheaper than Foster's! ) The 6 will probably be my quarantine and the Hex 5 my son's beta bowl. All will be attempts at what I've read in Walstad's book.

God, am I crossing my fingers on this.

EDIT: Oh, and as far as plants and fish, I have no real plan yet. I'm in the "gather equipment" phase right now. Fish I'll go very simple, though I'd like to be able to reward the current 30 gallon residents with a nice home for living through hell these past few years. Plants? Beats me. I think I'm going to do what she recommends and just plant the hell out of them, take out the dead things and let the ones that take enjoy. Advice past this?


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

CS:

Sorry if I'm being dense, but on Foster's all I can find is this thing for $18! That can't be right!

EDIT: Der. Nevermind. I see it on the maxi-jet page. Thanks a lot. I'll go with those.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Yikes. $234 later and I'm on my way. Now I just need to find a source for gravel. I'll post pictures as I get these things going. Thanks for all your help. Wish me (lots and lots) of luck!


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## cs_gardener (Apr 28, 2006)

Sticker shock is just so fun isn't it? It could be worse, just think what that would cost you at Petco or Petsmart. 

As for the plants, start with a lot of fast growers and a couple floating plants like Amazon frogbit, hornwort, red-root floater. Keep an eye on the For Sale/Trade Forum. There are some great deals there and if you catch a member doing a large trim you can get a lot of different plants at once. 

Oh yes, good luck and have fun!


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## mommyeireanne (Oct 24, 2007)

You might check out Quikrete All Purpose Sand. It's at big hardware/home improvement stores. I plan to use this for the next tank. Some high-tech planters in my club just did a tank with this. The only negative thing they said was that it took a lot of washing, generally you don't need to wash gravel for NPT, though. You can look at it and decide. It was cheap and the MSDS suggests it's silicate which would not raise GH/KH/PH. 
I did my last tank in the winter and couldn't find pool filter sand anywhere, but I understand some home improvement stores carry it during swimming pool season. Good Luck with the new tanks!


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## Jareardy (Feb 14, 2008)

You said you were going to buy eco complete until you read that book. What does that book recommend for a substrate that's appropriate for healthy plant growth?


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Dirt.


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## Red_Rose (Mar 18, 2007)

Jareardy said:


> You said you were going to buy eco complete until you read that book. What does that book recommend for a substrate that's appropriate for healthy plant growth?


The book suggests a cheap potting soil or topsoil that has no fertilizers in it and make sure that it's not sterilized either. I think that a lot of people like Earth-gro. I believe it's a Home Depot brand but I'm not too sure.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Yeah, Earth Gro is what I bought. It has no additives and is _dirt_ cheap. Instead of my substrate costing me about $140, before shipping, it came out to $5 and fit in the trunk with my groceries. Bit of a difference that.


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## DanD5303 (Oct 12, 2004)

the quickrete all purpose sand is really fine grained and full of dust. It might not work well to top your substrate without a lot of washing. I'd recommend course sandblasting grit. I've used it a lot. Its usually silica sand and the particle size is about 1 to 3 mm. Most lumberyards carry it around here. Dan


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

rehdjac said:


> I live in a small town and don't think there's a pool store around. However there are numerous landscaping business. Maybe I can get one them to sell me a tiny quantity of small gravel. Not sure it'll be small enough thoughfall.
> 
> A few quick answers.
> 
> ...


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

And from whence hope, now despair. 

Well, I'm a little star struck, and a lot thankful, for your reply.:hail: But I've already dropped $200+ buying things I've just been warned against. And that pretty much completed my budget. I'm already looking to go over stocking these things.

I went with the Maxi-Jet 900 which Foster's says rates 230 gph. Hopefully with the pre-filter on it that will come down a bit? Still too much?

I don't know what to do about the lighting. The raised ballast was the initial thing that got me excited about fixing up the tank. It's the raised posture I'm after more than the lights. Uhm... poop, I don't even know what to ask. Anyone know if those feet can be used on any other ballast? Anyone know of any other raised ballast that uses regular strips?

I'm fairly certain Foster's will take back just about anything so I'll only be out shipping both directions. I love the raised ballast, but I also certainly don't want a green tank of soup in my living room. Would it be possible to WAY over plant the tank to control the coming algal flood?

Ugh. Gloom. :sad:

Least I got some good news on the gravel though. That looks to be a non-issue.

Thanks for your time everyone!


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## cs_gardener (Apr 28, 2006)

The Maxijet comes with an attachment to angle the output and that can help. If it's still too much flow you can diffuse the output by making a DIU spraybar using tubing that will fit around the output. Get some 5/8" tubing (I think, or whatever will fit, just take the connecting piece with you) from your local Home Depot-type store and also buy a cap for the end of the tube. I've gotten drinking water safe tubing and have also used pond tubing and they both worked fine. The pond tubing was black and is easier to hide in a tank if you have a dark background, the clear tubing turns white and you can see gunk collect in & on it. The only cap I was able to find was white. Then drill holes in the tube along the length of it how you want the water to flow. More larger holes, slower water flow. Attach to powerhead and use a heater-type suction cup to hold the tube in place near the mid-end and you're set. My betta girls liked this setup 'cause they like very low flow. When your tank gets heavily planted it may drop the flow too much to prevent dead areas so you can try and revert to angling the flow with the output adapter.

For the lighting, if you get floaters like Amazon frogbit, red-root floater and Salvinia and let them grow across the surface of the water it will cut the light that enters the tank down drastically. If you let them go too long before thinning them your tank becomes a cave. My floaters grow and thrive with a split photo period totaling 10 hours (I have a noontime siesta) so I don't know why 14-16 hours would be necessary (unless that's just for emergent growth?). They also help use up any excess nutrients and reduce the chance of an algae take-over. I also have Amazon frogbit in a 38 river type tank with massive flow (not a NPT) and it's doing just fine. The frogbit is the easiest and hardiest of the floaters that I grow since the leaves are tougher than other floaters. 

When you compare CF bulbs to sunlight, the bulbs completely pale by comparison. I can't tell I have 2 x 65w on my 33 when the sun hits it in the morning, all I can see is the sunlight, the light fixture might as well not be there. Since you have no access to sunlight you have to make up for it somehow or you won't be able to grow much of anything. 

Take heart, your method won't be pure El Natural, but you can still use a lot of the basic information to get a lovely tank. There are many ways to get a beautiful tank, you just have to experiment and determine what works for you.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks again for the encouraging words cs, and the advice on the spray bar. I'm not as worried about the power head as I am about the lighting. (It's a lot easier to send back!) But if you're running 130 watts of compact light on your 33 that dwarfs what I'm about to use. If you're ok, I should be fine. Plus, my light will be a few inches above the tank. That should help a little right? 

Is there a website that folks would recommend to stock the tank? I checked out Freshwater Aquarium Plants that advertises here and they seem to have good prices compared to anything I can get locally, and far more variety.


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## dwalstad (Apr 14, 2006)

cs_gardener said:


> There are many ways to get a beautiful tank, you just have to experiment and determine what works for you.


Hello Catherine,

Right on! And thanks for your explanations and helpful, encouraging input. My goal was not to complain about the new hobbyist's lighting (or any other equipment). For example, a 96 watt CF lighting sounds great! The lighting is strong enough to get excellent emergent and floating plant growth, which will be a big help in controlling any potential algae problems.

Yes, the 14-16 hr photoperiod is strictly for emergent growth. I'm pretty sure that a siesta would not block the stimulation, which involves plant hormones that are stimulated by long daylength. Even if you turn lights off during the middle of the day, you still should get the emergent-growth stimulation. The plants still "think" its summer. I suspect that a midday siesta mimics natural conditions where the summer sun can go behind clouds or trees for a few hours during the day. Here, one must try to think like a plant.

Photoperiod is daylength, that is, the total time between when you turn lights on in the morning and when you turn them off at night.

For those that want emergent and floating plant growth without having lights on for 14-16 hr, the siesta sounds like a very good idea. I may give it a try myself!


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## cs_gardener (Apr 28, 2006)

Thanks for the clarification, Ms Walstad! It helps explain the good growth I've been getting with my floaters since the rooms my tanks are in aren't really dark during the siesta period, just muted lighting like there was heavy cloud cover. I've had to increase the lighting for some of my tanks because of how dark it gets in Oregon winters for days and even weeks at a time. There were times when I felt like I was living in a cave and the plants were definitely struggling and losing lower leaves from the lack of light. It's easy for me to limit sunlight by angling the blinds during the summer so the tanks don't get overwhelmed.

rehdjac, having the light raised does help diffuse it a bit, especially as it will give floating and emergent plants some room to grow without getting singed by the heat from the light.

As for places to buy plants, I'm partial to AquaBotanic as Robert is a helpful, friendly guy with a good selection of plants. He's also local to me so I have had the opportunity to meet him and do some trading with him. Another great source is the for/sale trade forum here, especially when someone with a huge tank is doing a massive trim and you can get a lot of plants from one person. It's also an enormous temptation I have a lot of trouble resisting.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Me again,

No pictures because I haven't even been able to buy plants yet. I am 100% stumped. Mail order is my only option as there is no club I know of around me and my shops are limited to PetCo.

I've tried to ask for advice from Aqua Botanic and Freshwater Aquarium Plants. Aqua Botanic won't call me back (tried twice) and FAP said he had to warn me about the Walstad method and then never did. I thought, well screw it, I'll just order a big kit from one of them and see what happens, but then Aqua Botanic won't give you a S&H charge (they just charge you whatever they want after placing the order?) and FAP builds their packages to suit your tank. But again, he wont' do that without first "warning me about" Walstad.

ARGHRGHRG!!!!

I'm becoming very frustrated. 

Does anyone have a big bundle of plants they can recommend from some online supplier? Is there a resource to help me do this? If there's one fault I've found hafter having read Walstad's book a couple of times is the lack of this kind of practical advice. I understand the general notion is "buy a bunch and see what grows" but I'm trying to fill three tanks, a 30, 6 and 5. I don't know how many plants equals well or over planted.

Ugh. Now it sounds like I'm whining. I just can't seem to get this order put together. One stumbling block after another. How about this, here's a couple of packages from Aqua Botanic I was thinking of getting. They're both for 55 gallons. Plan is to use one package to plant all three tanks. (41 total gallons.)

#1 $65.00

6 assorted bunched stem plants (Moneywort, Red temple, Nesaea, Rotala indica, Bacopa, Wisteria, depending on availability)
3 large Cryptocoryne
10 dwarf sag
2 small swords
1 Red rubin sword or Large Ozelot sword (depending on availablility)
3 Anubias coffefolia
2 Crinum onion
4 Java fern
10 corkscrew vals
2 Java moss

#2 $104 

6 Java Fern
15 E. tenellus pots
2 Tiger Lotus
2 Gold Lloydiella
2 Red Foxtail
1 Red Temple
3 Pellia

Says it needs bright light (which I've got) and CO2 (which I don't).

So, are those what I'm after? Could I plant three tanks enough to make this Walstad thing work? I don't see any floaters, would need to add those, but not sure I can, and don't know what that would do to the "blank check" method of S&H calculation.

I don't know. Poop. Crabby.

Oh, my tap is PH 7.5, Gh 12. I plan to just use my big mopani collection for hardscape unless that will soften the water too much.

Basically, I'm just begging here. ray:


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## tames (Apr 18, 2008)

I like an online shop called Sweet Aquatics. You may want to try them. I am not sure if they have plant bundles, but it sounds like you have a good idea of the ones you want anyway. Don't pay too close attention to the CO2 thing, this is just a recommendation. Growth may be much slower without it. Then again, the plant may fail for you. Funny thing is a plant may do wonderful in one tank, and 
the tank right next to it, it fails.

http://www.sweetaquatics.com

I also like http://aquariumplants.com

Cabomba for me is hard to grow. I have several planted tanks, and I have only been successful with it in two. These two tanks have a high ramshorn snail population. So there is some symbiotic thing going on there. Probably algae control since Cabomba seems to be a magnet.

People are only familiar with methods they have tried. It is really up to you to try different things and see what works for YOU. Don't be put off by people who want to "warn" you about this or that. EXPECT FAILURE, but don't give up and you will be rewarded. A plant may fail for you at first, but may grow great in an established tank later.

This is MY method I have been using lately that works good for ME. It is extremely simple. In taller tanks (14gal, 18gal, 20High, 29gal, etc) 1 inch top soil (very cheap - no fertilizers, blah, blah), 3 inches of sand (I mostly use play sand - black sand is expensive, but gorgeous). Between the top soil and sand I place a piece of black fiberglass window screening - this is something new I'm trying. In shorter tanks (10 gal, 15gal, 20L, etc) 1/2 inch topsoil, 2 inches sand. I use fairly high light. Power compacts mostly. No filters or pumps. Most do have heaters. Notice I didn't say you should not use filters or pumps, but I have many tanks, and the heaters take up a lot of the outlets. Things are going well without them. I also keep my fish stock fairly low except in a couple tanks. Inverts, fairly high. For me, fish are the decorations and part of the ecology of the tanks not the main reason for the tanks.

You will have more success at first with fast growers in a new tank.

Some I really like are:

Rotala indica - S.A. has it labeled rotundifolia in parenthesis, but I have both, and they are a little different. I also have one called Rotala sp. 'Ceylon'. Very small leaves - gorgeous.

Hygrophila - all of them at Sweet Aquatics - I really love Sunset Hygro, but you can only get that through the hobby (sometimes on Aquabid).

Potamogenton gayi - I really love this one (aquariumplants.com). Potamogenton's are hard to find. I look for these varieties all the time.

Alternanthera reineckii - get it, you will love it.

Ludwigia natans - ditto (red temple?)

Marsilea quadrifolia - clover. Sometimes you will get emergent plants. The emergent plant is tall and looks like common clover. The submergent form is very pretty and small. It sends out runners with tiny plant-lets on it.










I was looking over your list. Try to get used to using the scientific names.

For the large sword also try Echinodorus 'Kleiner Bar'

You may want to consider getting the common Vallisneria spiralis. I don't always have good luck with the corkscrew (asiatica). Get both in case your corkscrew dies down (may revive later though)

The red foxtail - if I am thinking of the right plant - can be problematic like the cabomba - an algae magnet

Some of these plants grow slowly without CO2 - just have to be patient. They are not good tank starters - since you want fast growth at the beginning. Notice I did not say you should not have them.
Pellia
Java fern
Crypts - some grow fast some don't - some will "melt" then grow back
Anubias

Best of luck. Just do it!


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## newbie314 (Mar 2, 2007)

I would recommend the plants I have used in my tanks.
Val sp. did do well in the 2.5g then stopped and then started. I think it started up again because I was feeding food for the cherry shrimp. Not much nutrition in the betta food.

Somebody here or in the buy/trade section may have some starter plants.
I pruned yesterday, so shipping would have been a problem.


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

tames said:


> it sounds like you have a good idea of the ones you want anyway.
> 
> I was looking over your list. Try to get used to using the scientific names.


With my new child due to arrive at any time I'm trying to do 1000 things at once these days and haven't had time to fully explore your advice yet, but thanks for your response. To be clear on a couple of points; a) I have _no idea_ of the ones I want; b) Those two lists are verbatim copy/pastes from aqua botanics packages; c) I'll try to use real names, though I am an abject novice. Hence the plea for help!

Thanks again, when (if now?) I get these set up I owe everyone pictures.

Roderic


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Ok, that Sweet Aquatics site looks to be what I needed. Easy to navigate with that list of names on the left. There's hope!

Aquarium Plants looked too missive for me, and S&H is flipping costly. Thanks again!


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## bratyboy2 (Feb 5, 2008)

rehdjac~ as im folding cloths and going through post i stumbbled apon yours again lol after starting to read your frustration i noticed that y cloths were not in piles but everywhere on the floor because of the frustration these websites have givin you. if the new web site does not work for you, you can always go a contact goalceas on here. toby is great!!! he will send you a nice starter package of stuff from his tanks. all you do is just pay him for the shipping and maybe the plants as well. if you really want. im going to all odd ball aquatics in PA soon i can get you some plants and you could pay for them and i will ship them for yah. its up to you PM is that sounds good. GOOD LUCK


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## rehdjac (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks much for your concern and offer. I couldn't find the "goalceas" you mentioned. Though honestly I'd rather earn any favors or deals, no one here knows me from Adam. I'm sure I'll be kicking around this forum trying to make these tanks work and I'll certainly consider trades and deals after I've made a name for myself.

Looks like I'm going to give this Sweet Aquatics a try. After continuous disappointment with other sites, Mary got back to me in just over an hour. That earned my business.

Probably have pictures in a week or two... unless baby decides to come early!


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## bratyboy2 (Feb 5, 2008)

well here is hoping the baby holds off till we get picture lol just kidding
well i hope they work out for you and maybe i will give them a try hell im checking them out now to see if they have my favorite plants...
good luck


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Rehdjac, congratulations on your sweet baby on the way! You are the adventurous one putting up multiple tanks with a baby on the way! 

This plant thing won't be as hard as it sounds in these posts. Plants can adapt to a variety of criterion. Many plants are easy to grow. If you spend a little time in the Plant finder section you'll see a lot of easy to grow plants. The important thing for you to do is to get some fast growing easy plants in your tank. They will help to combat the new tank cycling that always happens as the nutrifying bacteria grows. As you get your plants growing you can then decide which you like and which you might want to sell or trade. 

Glad you decided where to get your plants. Hope they work well for you. Many people, including myself buy and sell on this forum. You always get healthy, taller plants in usually larger quantities for cheaper $$. Postage is usually $5 or $6. If you buy from someone who is selling many varieties then you save in shipping. Don't feel like you have to earn favors here. Everyone is so helpful. Most of us have been helped by others so are glad to give back and help someone else.

Looking forward to seeing your tanks!


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