# Crystal clear water??



## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

I recently had GW outbreaks on all my tanks. Two have cleared up with blackouts, but still have a slight yellow tinge and a cloudy appearance.

What kind of filter can I buy that will get rid of the GW and give me crystal clear water? I'm tired of waiting! The two tanks that have cleared are 10 gallons, and the one still with GW is a 7 gallon cube.

I've read that the HOT Magnum 250 w/ micron filter and a Vortex diatom filter will clear the GW. Will either give me crystal clear water? I have also seen claims that SeaChem Purigen will give crystal clear water too...does it really? What are the pros and cons of each?

Sorry for being a newbie about this...


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## SnyperP (Dec 10, 2004)

The diatom filter seems to be the best trick. It polishes water like it's no other. I'm alittle weary on purgens claims. They seem very very good...often too good to be true. If you can find a used magnum, i think that's the best route to go.


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## snoopfish (Dec 19, 2005)

I cleared up a green water problem with my Magnum 250 and some diatom powder. I put the diatom powder in a separate bucket of water (dechlorinated) and allowed the filter to take up water until it was clear of powder cloudiness, then shut off the filter and quickly moved it to my main tank. Watched it closely because the diatom powder in combination with the micron filter in the Magnum can cause clogging problems.


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## drgold (Oct 22, 2006)

I tried the magnum and micron trick and it worked a little, but not completely. I would suggest diatomatic powder to really get all the algae out. The bucket trick snoopfish used is the perfect way to go.


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## duchessren (Sep 16, 2006)

Bamboo shrimps thrive in green water. They'll help filter it out.


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## yoink (Aug 31, 2005)

duchessren said:


> Bamboo shrimps thrive in green water. They'll help filter it out.


You would need a ridiculous amount of bamboo shrimp to put a dent in green water.


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## anthonysquire (Mar 15, 2006)

Then bamboo shrip and clams


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## xcooperx (Jun 24, 2006)

Steve, Steve , steve,(just kiding) are you really selling the Parachute?   

Epicfish, i think no need to buy those clearing product, just do your regular WC and things will clear up.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Fine mechanical filtration will not clear the water as well as biological. A diatom filter (the finest mechanical filtration available to us hobbyists) can make the water crystal clear very quickly (30 min for a 55 gal. tank for example) but it cannot be run on a tank that doesn't have healthy bacteria. 

If any, even microscopic, debries accumulate and are not broken down/eaten by the bacteria the diatom filter will clog quickly - couple of hours for the biggest diatom filter (Vortex XL) sold for aquarium purposes.

Running a diatom filter 24/7 is possible but the water will not have the "shine" typical for a healthy established tank. 

The best approach is to make sure you are not harming the bacteria in any way (during water changes for example). A UV sterilizer being run 24/7 helps a great deal in clarifying the water and taking care of GW before you even see it coming.

Nothing takes care of a tank better than stable conditions and healthy bacteria. The choice is between trying to clean the water with mechanical filtration and trying to clean the water using processes that occur naturally.

--Nikolay


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

niko said:


> Fine mechanical filtration will not clear the water as well as biological. A diatom filter (the finest mechanical filtration available to us hobbyists) can make the water crystal clear very quickly (30 min for a 55 gal. tank for example) but it cannot be run on a tank that doesn't have healthy bacteria.
> 
> If any, even microscopic, debries accumulate and are not broken down/eaten by the bacteria the diatom filter will clog quickly - couple of hours for the biggest diatom filter (Vortex XL) sold for aquarium purposes.
> 
> ...


I just got an outbreak of GW. I did a blackout, and it's cleared up, but there's still a slight haze to it all, I'm not sure why. I've reduced the photoperiod and upped the fertilizers and everything's been going well, except for the slight haze. It's bugging me...do you have any suggestions for this then?


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Epicfish,

I do have a suggestion but you are not going to like it and you don't have a choice either.

What you need for a green water + haze is only one thing - patience.

Sometimes green water is caused by a glitch in the development of the bacteria that normally establishes itself in the tank. The tank develops green water accompanied by whitish haze. The haze is bacterial outbreak. Actually the haze appears first and a few days later the green water.

In such bad cases a UV sterilizer will clear some of the green water but a slight greenish tint will remain along with the whitish haze.

A diatom filter will clear some of the haze but not all.

Flocculants (substances that glue the bacteria and the green cells together and make them settle or get stuck in the filter) help a little but not much.

A blackout will get rid of the green water but the whitish haze will stay.

Water changes make the situation worst.

So here is what you have to do:

1. Add activated carbon to the filter

2. Add a resin to the filter. "Purigen" by Seachem. It removes part of the organics from the water. You will need a fine mesh bag for the resin - sold separately and not in all stores. 

3. Do a 30-40% water change

4. Lower the light to something like 1/2 watt per gallon or less. Don't let it be completely dark.

5. If you have fish in the tank bubble some air in it.

6. If you have CO2 bubbling in the tank leave it working. Don't concern yourself with the loss of CO2 because of the added air bubbling.

Let the tank by itself as long as it takes for it to get over the problem. It will take 3 to 6 weeks. Be patient.

No water changes during that time. Add RO water or distilled water from the grocery store to compensate for evaporation. It is best to add a little bit every day than 1 gallon at once. The idea is to let the tank stabilize without your interference. Every day make sure that the temperature is fine, the circulation is fine and that the light timer is working properly.

Once you let the tank get over the GW/haze problem you will know that a planted tank has its own rythm and it's best to use it instead of trying to do things our own way (filters, maintenance and so on).

--Nikolay


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

OK. I'll try all those steps you mentioned. 

Quick question first. One of my 10 gallons I got as a kit, so it comes with a HOB filter. My other 10 gallon doesn't have a filter yet. Should I go with a canister filter, or do you recommend I get another HOB for such a small tank? The AquaClear I plan to get is $18, and a small Eheim or Filstar Xp1 might cost me ~$45 since I know someone who works at LFS.

Also, how much Purigen would I need for two 10 gallon tanks, and a 7 gallon cube? I'm going to have to get media bags for the carbon (buying in bulk, since I have no idea exacly how much I'll need). Should I get the 250 micron, or 800 micron bags? I plan to get two bags per tank. One for the activated carbon, one for the Purigen.


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

I'd get a canister. An HOB filter can be used but you will loose a lot of CO2. The biological filtration with a canister is much more too.

I don't know about the bag micron size. As long as the small resin pellets don't get out of it it's usable. I guess 800 microns will be better - debries will plug it up slower.

Amount of Purigen - as much as you can buy. We are talking removal of only part of the organics - unfortunatelly I don't think you can overdose the resin. I wish one could remove all the organics with resin.

--Nikolay


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## Freemann (Mar 19, 2004)

I back Niko 100% on the above (we need to meet in chat Nikolay).
Only small detail make sure that any water changes are after Cl is removed somehow or your helpfull bacteria will die (this days it seems to me that bacteria are more important than plants and must be our number 1 priority).


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Freemann said:


> I back Niko 100% on the above (we need to meet in chat Nikolay).
> Only small detail make sure that any water changes are after Cl is removed somehow or your helpfull bacteria will die (this days it seems to me that bacteria are more important than plants and must be our number 1 priority).


I use Prime dechlorinator, so that shouldn't be a problem. =)

Thanks for the tips, niko, and Freemann. Time to spend some money and get some carbon and Purigen. =/


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## niko (Jan 28, 2004)

Epic,

Do not assume that if you use a good dechlorinator (Prime or AmQuel being the only good ones in the US) all your bacteria is fine. If you add the tap water to the tank and put the dechlorinator in there you will definitely hurt at least some of the bacteria. The neutralization is fast but until the Chlorine in the tap water meets the dechlorinator molecules you have free Chlorine killing bacteria. Keep that in mind.

Freemann,

Send me a PM when you gonna be in the chat.

--Nikolay


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## kamel_007 (Jan 7, 2006)

what is a diatom filter??


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## Dewmazz (Sep 6, 2005)

A diatom filter utilizes a fine powder of diatomaceous (sp?) earth to "sift" out minute particles (my understanding). I've wanted one, but I've been too frugal with my paychecks.










I know people say that UV sterilizers can muck with nutrients, but my investment in a small 5w Tetratec sterilizer was one of the best equipment purchases I've ever made (next to switching from HoB filters to Eheim). Haven't had a GW problem since I bought it (back in August) and my plants are doing quite nicely.


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## kamel_007 (Jan 7, 2006)

Dewmazz said:


> A diatom filter utilizes a fine powder of diatomaceous (sp?) earth to "sift" out minute particles (my understanding). I've wanted one, but I've been too frugal with my paychecks.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanx a lot..

but will you give me more details about it??

can i make a DIY one? and what it contains?

Thanx>
KAMEL


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Doubt that you could make an efficient DIY diatom filter. It's best to pony up the $60 and get one.


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