# Fencing Materials - Help Needed



## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

I'm going to have to build a fence for a backyard area at the house we're buying and I'm having trouble estimating costs. Mainly, I don't know what materials I need.

I went to a website that calculated the cost for chain-link for me (about $2,200+ in material alone for 240'). That seemed high, and I found chain-link at lowes (and privacy-wood, spaced picket, vinyl... )for MUCH cheaper, but then I didn't know what all materials I would need. 

Anyone on here know a good 'per foot' estimate for the basic types of fence (Chain-Link, Wood/Privacy, Wood/Spaced... ). The goal for the fence is to keep the dog and the kids from wandering into the woods or toward the road.

-Dave


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

cost per foot really depends on what exactly you are using and what you plan on doing.

prices start at about 8/foot for the cheaper stuff for a 5' fence, for better quality and privacy, it jumps to about 14.

stadard dog ear red wood, built to last with wood posts is about 15, with the U shaped posts that are never going to break, about 22.


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Thanks for the input TAB.


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

I just wanted to update this. The price of steel has gone down. I purchased 630' of Chain-Link fence *materials* (includes 2 walk-gates and 2 drive gates, all poles/fencing/rails/etc... ) for about $3.35 per foot. I guess that labor would match that for a total of about $6.70 or $7 per foot, however, I'll be installing it myself so my labor cost will consist of "elbow grease" and sore muscles. Keep in mind these are prices in Texas, which seem to be on the cheaper side compared to other states.

Wood privacy fence is still pretty costly because wood prices have stayed high and labor is more intensive on those.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

Have you ever installed chainlink before?

Its not as easy as it looks.

Don't skimp on the post, buy the thicker gauge and the longer posts and sink them deep. Also make sure you pack the post atleast half way up with concreate as it drasticly increases thier strength. Bringing the mix above grade level is also a very good idea.

I highly recomend either buying or renting a strech tool.

I also recomend setting the corner posts then string a line at the top and about a 1' off of grade, that way you only have to level the post in 1 direction and it keeps your lines strait.

renting a post hole digger, the 2 man or the teatertoter if its just you.


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## Diana K (Dec 20, 2007)

Make a few calls until you find a supplier that will talk you through the whole thing. Then buy the materials from him! He has invested a lot of time helping you through this. Or buy a book with lots of fence layouts. Then make a material list and fax it to all the local lumber yards for a quote, including delivery charge. 
Make friends with a carpenter. 

No matter what style of fence you decide on you will need several basic things. 

Survey, if there is any question about the property lines and where the fence may be located. If it is a shared fence the neighbor may help pay for it, may help install it, or may have some legal input about what you are doing on the common lot line. If you build it entirely on your side of the property line the neighbor will be less entitled to say anything. 

check the zoning or other laws about how high a fence may be, and any neighborhood regulations about materials. There may be some requirement about how deep the posts are if your area freezes. Shallow post holes might mean the posts (and then the whole fence) may pop out of the ground. 

String and stakes to lay out the fence. More stakes to hold the posts level while you pour in the concrete. You can use the 2 x 4s for this (wood fence), then reuse them in the fence structure. 

If there is more than a gentle slope or you need to move soil to give you a smooth grade then a transit might be needed. If a lot of soil moving is required consider renting a tractor. Fences are a lot easier to build if the soil is level, or if it slopes the slope is one smooth grade, not too much of up and down, steep and not so steep... with every panel changing. 

Post hole digger. Tractor mount, or 2-man, gas power. Manual post hole digger to clean out the holes. 

Basic carpentry tools including hammer, saw (Electric is better, such as Skil Saw or others, but a hand saw will come in handy, too. Spare battery and charger if you are using battery powered equipment), level (You can get a special level that helps you plumb the posts both ways, but I have used standard 24" and 48" levels to do this.)
Saw horses or a small stack of the material to hold what you are cutting. 
If you have to cut a lot of things all the same make a jig. For example, if you decide you want 4' boards, and the store only sells 8' boards, then build a jig to hold the 8' boards and guide the saw to cut them all the same. You might decide to alter the plan if it seems you are getting into this problem. Ask what lumber is available, and what the charge is for the store to cut it. (Don't have the store cut it if the fence is on a slope)
Drill (If you are using screws)
Square to line up your cuts. I use a triangular shaped square with one edge that hooks over the wood. Lays out 90* and 45* cuts. I actually own 3 or 4 styles of square. An adjustable square if your fence is on a slope. Then you can line up your cuts at any angle. 
Pencil

Wheel barrow for concrete (if you are buying a load in a small mixer that you tow behind your truck) or to move the bags of fence post mix to each post. 
Shovels (square and round point)

If there is ANY WAY to get your truck close to at least some of the work, then do it. Get the material as close as possible to where you will be using it. The less walking the better. 
If you need to cut a lot of material, and your cord is only so long, then set up a cutting area, and then truck the cut material to where it will be installed. The newer battery powered tools are very helpful!



Basic fence layout is similar for all the materials you are thinking about. 
Start with posts 8' on center. You should upgrade the posts that gates will hinge on, larger size, thicker material. Corners of some fences might be upgraded, too. 
Fence post concrete is available in bags, or you might be able to rent a mixer you tow behind your truck. Post holes (here in no-freeze California) are 12" diameter x 24" deep.
Draw one section of your fence. Here is what a material list would look like when I draw such plans:
~ Basic Wood, 6' high, kick board, no lattice. (The drawback to this style is that the boards touch at first, but shrink in a few months or a year, leaving gaps). You can use dog eared (clipped corners) or straight boards: 
(1) post, 4 x 4 x 8' pressure treated for most, 4 x 6 for gate hinged posts. 
Enough concrete to fill the hole (about 1.5-2 cubic feet)
(2) 2 x 4 x 8' rough con heart redwood
(1) 2 x 8 x 8' pressure treated kickboard. This is installed at the bottom, and is in contact with the soil. It may rot, and is easily replaced. This protects the rest of the fence. You could also use redwood 1 x 8. It will rot faster. The 2 x 8 is better if you are working on a hill where a small amount of soil might build up against the fence. 2 x 8 is a better retaining wall. (Fences are NOT retaining walls, this is just in case of a little soil movement) 
(12) 1 x 8 x 5' con heart rough redwood. Fence boards. (for a 5' high fence leave the other things as they are, but reduce these to 1 x 8 x 4'. You might have to buy them 8' long, and cut them in half yourself)
16d nails to attach the 2 x 4s to the posts, and 8d to attach the boards to the 2 x 4s. Screws would make a stronger structure. 
Variation: Alternate dog eared and straight boards. 
Variation: In any one panel all the boards are on one side, but on the next panel the boards are all on the other side. 
Variation: Alternate boards on one side then the other. Every board is alternated. This leaves gaps and is especially good in a windy area, but if you or a neighbor have an aggressive dog this is not a good layout. 

~Fancier Wood, with the boards overlapping, and lattice top.
Even when the boards shrink they were initially overlapped, so they should not gap:
(1) 4 x 4 x 8' pressure treated post
1.5-2 cubic feet concrete
(3) 2 x 4 x 8' con heart rough redwood
(6) or (12) 1 x 1 x 8' redwood 
These hold the boards and lattice in place. You can do it with these just on one side, and lots of staples, or sandwich the lattice and boards by using these on both sides of the fence, and use less staples. 
(1) HEAVY DUTY lattice 12" x 8'. These are very subject to wind damage. I have seen the cheap ones fall apart in less than one year. Get the good ones. Even if you have to cut it yourself. 
(13) 1 x 8 x 5' fence boards, or 4' (same comment as above) if you want a kickboard
(1) 2 x 8 x 8' pressure treated kickboard. (1 x 8 x 8' redwood can also be used, but does not last as long)
16d nails or screws to attach the larger lumber, smaller nails or screws for the smaller lumber. (our company uses a nail gun for 16d and 8d nails, and a smaller gun that shoots 1" to 2" staples to attach the 1 x 1 x 8'). Screws for the kickboard. Easier to remove when the board rots. 
Screws make the fence hold together longer. Nails can pull out over time. 

When using pressure treated wood make sure you have the right fastening materials. Some forms of pressure treating will erode certain forms of fasteners. 

~ Wire mesh with wood frame:
(1) 4 x 4 x 8' pressure treated post, or redwood. 
Concrete for the post
(2) 2 x 4 x 8' redwood or pressure treated 
(8') Non-climb or welded wire mesh. Available in several heights (5', 6'...) Non-climb has twisted wire at the joints and is easier to install, especially if there are any changes in elevation. Either way, 2" x 4" spacing on the wires is pretty common, though other material may be available. (one example is rabbit fencing: the first 12-18" has twice as much wire to keep rabbits out, then the upper part is 2 x 4) 
Wire nails, or bent nails to install the wire, 16d nails or screws to attach the 2 x 4s to the posts. (see note above about pressure treated lumber. If you are using all redwood, then hot dipped galvanized are good, though they will leave dark tracks on the wood)

Vinyl Fencing: There are many companies making this product. Refer to their web sites for materials lists and installation details. Basically there will be posts and panels, but the details vary. some are a lot like wood for installation, other systems use inserts or clips and there are many variations. Most of these are long lasting, but get references. Not just one or two years worth but ask to see 5 and 10 year old projects. Even 20 years old. 

Chain link: Go look at a fence to see all the material:
Posts, post caps, diagonals and special caps to attach the diagonals, a bar each time you stop the fence (such as at corners), clips to hold the fabric to the posts, a top and bottom wire...


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## jimcro55 (Dec 6, 2010)

You can always rech out to the companies that make and sell wire mesh:
http://www.bwire.com/

Check them out for example and ask for some prices on square footage....

Just a suggestion, good luck.


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Ha, thanks for all the advice folks. But what I really need now is for someone to come help me dig holes and set the posts!  So far I've only been able to work on it on Saturdays and I've only got 5 corner/gate posts set. I do have all the corners and gates staked off though, so the "layout" phase is done. 30 bags of sack-crete to go and some 60 posts to level and set. After that it's just stretching the chain-fabric and hanging the gates...etc...


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

you need to be using more then 1/2 bag of mix per post.

I normally use atleast 2 60 lb bags or 1.5 90 lb bags.

its cheap, there is no reason to skimp.


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## Leslie (Aug 17, 2010)

ive did fine on my fence with 1 bag per post. I went a little heavyier on corner posts and posts with gates. Dont forget the fence stretching thing, Makes a HUUUGE difference. GL!!!!


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## davemonkey (Mar 29, 2008)

Another update:

I kept not having time to dig all the line posts (though I did manage to get all the corners and gates in myself). So I called in a good crew that puts in fence for a living and they knocked out all the line posts in a day. 

My wife and I just finished the toprails today and tomorrow I'll do basewire and see about putting up some chain-link.

Incidentally, I asked what total installation would cost per foot and the crew charges $3.50 per foot, labor only. The materials ran me $3.35 (including delivery), so that comes to $6.85 per foot for a 4' chain-link fence...in Texas. But keep in mind you have to add in your sac-crete (runs about $3 - $3.50 per 80lb bag over here). I think total cost per foot is a little higher in other states. TAB, does it run higher where you are?


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