# CO2 working pressure for UpAqua Atomizer?



## OVT (Aug 26, 2010)

I have UpAqua atomizer connected in-line to the outflow hose of Eheim 2075 running at max (~300 gph). I have my working pressure at 10 psi, but I do not see anything (but water) getting into the tank from the outflow, Ph is stable, and drop checker is dark green. I've searched this forum and people report that they are running anywhere from 1.9 psi to 45 psi. 

So, before I send CO2 all over the place (again: the hose blew off the regulator ), what is the approximate CO2 working pressure that I need to start getting CO2 into the outflow stream?

Thanks a bunch.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

I have read of many people suggesting a minimum of 30 psi. You may want to try 30 to 35 psi to start with.

You need to fix whatever is causing the CO2 tubing to come off. Get a different barb, smaller ID tubing, make a tighter connection, or cutting the hard and bad end off or whatever it is that is wrong.


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## OVT (Aug 26, 2010)

Thank you, Left C for the information.

I am using this barb. I've tried regular plastic air and 2 brands of silicon piping and with anything over ~15 psi the tubing either blows off or there is huge leak of CO2 from the gap between the pipe and the barb. Using a plastic tie did not help much.

As far as I know, regular air hose is 8/4 mm. I could not find any info on the OD of brass barbs. Recommendations? Thanks a lot.


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## Left C (Jun 14, 2005)

That's a bummer, OVT!!

It sure sounds like your tubing's ID is too large or too stuff or too something so that it isn't working right.

You could try some silicone tubing. It is more flexible and it may grip the barb better. If you need a zip tie, use pliers to pull on it so that it can get very tight.

Unless you can get your pressure in the 30 to 45 psi range, you'll need another type of diffusion method.


Good luck!


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## cath0de (Feb 23, 2011)

I think you might want to try a different fitting. Something like http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Pipes-Fittings-Valves/Watts/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqpfZ57z/R-100637921/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 This fitting is 3/4 mip but I'm sure you can find it in 1/8 or 1/4. I've run over 50 psi through this type of compression fitting. The tubing will swell to twice the size before it comes off.


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## bosmahe1 (May 14, 2005)

I have an UpAqua inline diffuser and it was inconsistant until I turned it up to 30 PSI. I tried it with less but, it just couldn't make that initial push when the soleniod would first turn on.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

here is the deal, not only do you have to fight the head presure from the water depth, you also have to fight the presure of the pump. I have several inline reactors running on diffrent tanks, all are running about 30 psi.


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## OVT (Aug 26, 2010)

Thank you all for the replies.

Can a compression male fitting be used with a female NPT fitting (brass on brass)? If yes, do I still need to use tape?
Plumbing is not my strongest point . Thanks.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

no.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

Anthonywesty said:


> Visit a hardware store and start playing with the fittings.


a much better option is going to the local welding supply store and playing with fittings.

most low pressure plumbing fittings have tappered threads, the higher presures do not.


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## cath0de (Feb 23, 2011)

OVT said:


> Can a compression male fitting be used with a female NPT fitting (brass on brass)? If yes, do I still need to use tape?
> Plumbing is not my strongest point . Thanks.


You can get a compression fitting that has the same threads as the barb you are trying to replace. And yes, teflon tape is always a good idea on those types of parts. Homedepot's icemaker parts section is your friend.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

cath0de said:


> You can get a compression fitting that has the same threads as the barb you are trying to replace. And yes, teflon tape is always a good idea on those types of parts. Homedepot's icemaker parts section is your friend.


Teflon tape is NEVER a good idea in high presure systems.


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## cath0de (Feb 23, 2011)

TAB said:


> Teflon tape is NEVER a good idea in high presure systems.


I'm pretty sure this fitting is going after the regulator and mip threads require tape or sealant. You can get lucky and just crank the thing down and hope the taper holds but I think that is more dangerous than using tape.


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## TAB (Feb 7, 2009)

even if it does need a thread sealant, you never use tape. using the correct fittings( ie not tapered threads) require no dope/tape/ what ever.


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## cath0de (Feb 23, 2011)

TAB said:


> even if it does need a thread sealant, you never use tape. using the correct fittings( ie not tapered threads) require no dope/tape/ what ever.


I'm not a pipefitter but I do a lot of plumbing. I'm afraid OVT is not going to find a 1/8th compression fitting without tapered threads. I can't think of a welding application that would need 1/8th poly tubing.


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## OVT (Aug 26, 2010)

I did find a 1/8" NPT fitting with a thicker barb. Also, automotive fuel tubing seems to have a slightly smaller ID and slightly larger OD then the regular airline tubing, and I got a length of it also. I plan to swap the fitting this weekend and will post the results.

In the end, it's all my own fault  In my ignorance I bought a barb (4 of them :frusty that is just too thin.
Your support is much appreciated.


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