# Help with Pressurized CO2 set -up (instructions)



## Telperion (Jun 12, 2006)

Here is the set-up I ordered. http://www.aquariumplants.com/AQUARIUMPLANTS_com_s_Co2_Regulator_The_BEST_p/co2-1.htm

I also purchased a check valve and some tubing from rex grigg's site. I went to F&M Fire Services yesterday and picked up a 5# bottle of CO2. I also purchased a glass diffuser from Aquabotanic.

The above set-up (reg, etc.) is the only thing still to arrive in the mail. What I am unclear on is how to hook everything up once it arrives. Does anyone know a link to a site that breaks that down or has purchased this particular set-up before? Thanks!


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## NorCal Water (Jul 29, 2006)

Looks like a nice unit but if I'm not mistaken you need to hook it up to a ph monitor, thats what controls the solenoid. The glass cylinder on it is a bubble counter, probably fill with water and then control the flow rate with the small needle valve below the bbl. counter. I dont use a automatic system and leave mine on 24/7 with an airstone at night. Hope that helps a little.

Frank


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I think it's pretty straight forward if you follow the pictures from aquarium plants. You don't need a pH controller attached to that regulator in order to function. It's true though a ph controller shuts off the solenoid when it reaches a certain pH. Other ways to shut off the solenoid is placing it on a timer. 

Fasten the regulator to the cylinder using a wrench. Don't forget to place the plastic washer between the regulator and cylinder to prevent leaks. 

Fill up the bubble counter with liquid, water or glycerin.
Attach CO2 tubing on the barb over the bubble counter. Use the nut to secure it to the counter.
Attach output side to glass diffuser.

Open valves, plug in solenoid and adjust the output using the needle valve. 

I think it will all make better sense once you have the regulator in your hand.

-John N.


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## Telperion (Jun 12, 2006)

John N. said:


> I think it's pretty straight forward if you follow the pictures from aquarium plants. You don't need a pH controller attached to that regulator in order to function. It's true though a ph controller shuts off the solenoid when it reaches a certain pH. Other ways to shut off the solenoid is placing it on a timer.
> 
> Fasten the regulator to the cylinder using a wrench. Don't forget to place the plastic washer between the regulator and cylinder to prevent leaks.
> 
> ...


Thanks - I'm starting to get a better mental picture now. I had heard that these units don't come with installation info. so was a little concerned. 8-[ but that was VERY helpful, as always


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## lildark185 (Jul 7, 2006)

John N. said:


> Don't forget to place the plastic washer between the regulator and cylinder to prevent leaks.
> -John N.


Where would one purchase such plastic washers?


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I usually get them for free from my CO2 refiller location. Just ask for some extras.

OR you can purchase some from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/CO2-Cylinder-Wa...ryZ57074QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

-John N.


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## lildark185 (Jul 7, 2006)

Telperion said:


> Does anyone know a link to a site that breaks that down or has purchased this particular set-up before? Thanks!


I just stumbled upon this site and you find it useful.


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## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

I bought that same unit and had some trouble installing it--I'm not mechanically inclined at all and didn't know which parts did what.  They sent instructions, but there were no diagrams to go along with it, so that was only a little helpful for someone who doesn't know the "lingo." I thought I was doing something wrong, so I called aquariumplants.com and they helped me as much as they could over the phone. Eventually though, I got it all hooked up and it's running smoothly! Yours will too.

It did come with the plastic washer, and an extra in fact, tied on with a plastic quick-tie. You should have two.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

I thought I'd give a little more detail:

-Take the CO2 tank outside in an open area and open it ever so slowly until it blows some CO2 out and then shut it immediately. This helps the ensure there is no dirt in there.
-Attach the regulator to the CO2 tank using a 1 1/8" or adjustable wrench, making sure to put the plastic washer in between it and the tank. I like to use a little bit of teflon tape on the threads to make an extra tight seal. You don't need to do that though.
-Fill the bubble count 2/3 full of water and attach the CO2 line to the top of it.
-Open the valve on the CO2 tank all of the way. The pressure on the gauge should read somewhere between 800 and 1,000 psi.
-Adjust the pressure coming out of the tank using the large black knob on the front until the other gauge reads about 20 psi.
-Open the needle valve a lot and then close it. Now check if the second valve still reads 20 psi. If it does not then readjust it and repeat the process until it stays at 20 psi.
-Now put the CO2 tank under the aquarium and feed the CO2 line up over the aquarium. Attach the other end of the CO2 line to the diffuser and attach the diffuser to the inside of the aquarium using a suction cup. Be careful because those glass diffusers break easily.
-Now adjust the needle valve until you get the desired bubble count. (let us know what size tank so we can suggest a starting bubble rate)

NOTE: The solenoid needs to be plugged in the entire time for the regulator to be working. You can choose to put this on a timer to turn the CO2 off at night.


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## Telperion (Jun 12, 2006)

Great directions Aaron -- the tank is 55 gallons, and it will run on a timer with the lights.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Start at 1 bps (bubble per second) and work your way up slowly until you see a 1.0 pH drop from starting pH.


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## invisibleshopper (Jul 6, 2006)

Once you see that drop in PH - then what?

How many bpm for an 86 gallon (I'm getting the exact same regulator so this is a great thread for me too).

Thanks,

KLT


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Then that's the setting you want to keep it at. That should equate to about 30 ppm or so of dissolved CO2 in the water.


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## Rex Grigg (Jan 22, 2004)

The Teflon tape accomplishes nothing when it comes to sealing the CGA 320 valve to the cylinder connection. 

Take a good look at your regulator. The nut spins freely on the stem. In fact there can be quite a gap there. So how in blazes is Teflon tape supposed to seal that? In fact the use of Teflon tape on compressed gas applications where there are minature orfices down line is not recommended.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

The teflon tape is to help the nut grip a little tighter. One of my regulators threads on a little loosely for my liking. I realize that the washer is the gasket between the cylinder and regulator. I said I use it to make a tighter seal, not to make the seal itself.


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## invisibleshopper (Jul 6, 2006)

Hi,

I just got the regulator in the mail. A couple of questions.

Aaron T said "Adjust the pressure coming out of the tank using the large black knob on the front until the other gauge reads about 20 psi."

There is no black knob but there is a silver screw (with nut) is that what I use to adjust?

Second question - the "other gauge" only goes up to 15 psi - does that matter?

Then there is this other outlet (for lack of a better term) under the low numbered gauge with a green round inside and a metal post sticking out of it. What is this for?

Also, the JBJ regulator has a built in check valve which is placed inside the bubble counter. Is this where I would put a check valve? Is putting a check valve on the tubing between the bubble counter and the diffuser o:k?

Thanks,

KLT


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## Telperion (Jun 12, 2006)

invisibleshopper said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just got the regulator in the mail. A couple of questions.
> 
> ...


There's a built-in check valve? They could have let us know - I bought a separate one from Rex.

Mine still hasn't arrived. grrrrr.


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

KLT, I believe the JBJ has a fixed working pressure, so there is no need to fiddle around with the center nut. The Milwaukee has the black knob that people can use to adjust. The working pressure gauge (right gauge) should be around 10-20 psi indicating the pressure coming out of the tank. The tank pressure gage (left guage) should be between 700-1000 psi indicating what the pressure is inside the tank.









Pic from Ebay

Not sure what your talking about with the green round thingy and metal part sticking out of the regulator...You should only need to screw the regulator on, open the cylinder, and manipulate the needle valve to get the gas out.

Since the JBJ has a built in check valve, you can place the CO2 tubing on the bubble counter and be protected. No need for an additional check valve. However if you want, you can stick the extra check valve that you have inline on the tubing itself.

-John N.


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## invisibleshopper (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks John,

I didn't buy the JBJ but the Aquariumplants.com model. I was just looking at the JBJ and was wondering about the check valve. You have answered that well - thanks.

The extra arm with the green inside and post seems to be where you would connect the manifolds (if I was reading photographs on Aquariumplants.com's website correctly).

The right gauge only goes up to 15 psi so this is o:k? Do I aim for 15psi on this or do I aim for a lower psi of 10?

Thanks,

KLT


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## John N. (Dec 11, 2005)

I see you have this regulator. http://www.aquariumplants.com/AQUARIUMPLANTS_com_s_Co2_Regulator_The_BEST_p/co2-1.htm

It has a fixed working pressure. Any where between 10-15 psi will be good for the working pressure. I have my Milwaukee at 10 psi, and my Azoo regulator has a fixed working pressure at 15 psi.

-John N.


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

KLT - Which regulator did you buy? Setting it at 15 psi will be fine. It sounds as though the one you have has a fixed pressure, but it is impossible to know without seeing a picture or a link to some information.


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## invisibleshopper (Jul 6, 2006)

Hi,

I bought the same one as the originator of this thread.

http://www.aquariumplants.com/AQUARI...ST_p/co2-1.htm

From Aquariumplants.com.

Thanks,

KLT


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## AaronT (Apr 26, 2004)

Oh, sorry I missed that earlier. Yes, the screw with the nut is where the pressure is adjusted. The screw adjust the pressure and the nut is tightened in place to hold the adjustment where you set it.

It looks as though the setup is some assembly required.  It sounds like the regulator is similar one that I got. The hose barb coming out of the bottom is not used. You'll have to piece everything together. Did it come with instructions?


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## invisibleshopper (Jul 6, 2006)

Sorry, I went away for a few days.

It came with very bad instructions. It did come assembled but I think we will have to take it apart and put it back together again.

The way it is now, if you were to attach it to the cannister the bubble counter would be sideways. I'll have to take a picture and attach it here somehow. I will try to get a picture tonight.

Actually, I just looked at some photos and if all cannisters have the connector on the side, then I am fine with the way this is assembled. We were thinking that you would connect it to the top of a cannister (since we don't have a cannister yet to see).

KLT


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## Telperion (Jun 12, 2006)

I just received mine. I will look at it tonight to see if I have a the same question.


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## abnormalsanon (Jun 6, 2006)

Yup, the bubble counter on my aquariumplants.com regulator points out at an angle. It's a weird setup and took me a while to figure out, since I was new to pressurized CO2 to begin with. It doesn't look like the other regulators I saw online with diagrams. And yeah, the instructions kinda suck.

So far I don't know how I feel about the regulator. I bought an Azoo recently, so I'll have something to compare once it's all set up.


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