# Glass lined masonary tank.



## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I have constructed another 1000 litres hole in the wall tank using bricks and mortar for the rear and both sides, the front is to be all glass and the bottom is a concrete slab. The tank is built outward from the wall of my den and the glass front, where the wall used to be, would be the viewing side from my den. 

Now I have built tanks like this before and have had no problems (except rectifiable minor ones) with them. What I intend to do next with this tank; is something I have never done before - line the 3 masonry sides with glass.

I intend to use 5mm thick dark tinted glass, 27 inch high (water level to be 24") and paste them to the three sides with silicone. I would like all your advice to avoid any future problems - with the construction and the longevity of the tank.


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## Apaa (Jul 21, 2006)

How did you seal the other tanks you did like this? Did you use epoxy?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I used granite sheets with Styrofoam between the masonry and the granite.


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## Apaa (Jul 21, 2006)

I havent built a large tank but I would think that if the glass were up against the masonry and was evenly distributed by silicone it would be okay. Of course the face of the glass where the viewing area is would be the most important as far as strength goes. If it were me I would put the bottom peice in first, the viewing pane, and then the other sides. Id spread the silicone out so it had as much surface area contacting the glass and the wall to have the most surface area attached to the masonry to evenly distribute the pressure.


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## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

If the masonry was strong enough to hold the water the last time you did this, then just set the back glass in -the entire width- then set the two sides in against that, then set the front over the edges of the sides with silicone in the seams. That'll all be locked in when the tank is empty, as long as your method of mounting the front works well. When the tank is full, water pressure will hold everything up, so I really don't think you need to be that generous with the silicone, except in the seam where the front sits against the two side edges, and maybe some dabs at the back of the sides to keep them from slipping inward. I'm assuming your last project(s) had glass in the front and you were able to mount it effectively and avoid blowouts.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

My way of fixing the front (viewing) glass leaves no scope for even Murphy's law. I use epoxy to attach 2" X3/4" strips of granite to the front edge of the masonry wall and the concrete beam above to form a complete (all 4 edges) frame. I then attach the front glass from the inner side (tank side) with silicone. The water in tank can only push the glass tighter against the frame. 2" X 16' of epoxy bonding will hold the frame against this thrust.


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## Apaa (Jul 21, 2006)

I would be concerned about having a wide or lo0ng span of glass that isnt even supported at the bottom where most of the pressure of weight it. Potentially the water pressure could push the glass out and crack it if it werent evenly cushioned by silicone.


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## JERP (Feb 4, 2003)

You can do just about anything as long as you have a flat, well supported base. I would only use silicon along the edges. You will be able to see any silicon that is place in the middle of the pane and it would probably annoy you. Seal the masonry part from the air or it will get dusty behind the glass, big dust bunnies will also bug you.

You might consider using acrylic across the back sides that are against the masonry. It's easier to work with and is more forgiving to bending and impacts if you live in earthquake country. 

There's two ways of building it. 
1. Attach each pane to the masonry separately and then seal the panes.
2. Build a box that slides into the opening and then attach the front pane to the masonry.

Option two lets you test waterproofing before final assembly and is easier to replace if you have a problem. Option 1 is faster to assemble. The weight of the water in a store bought tank is supported by the sides of the tank. The bottom does not actually sit on the ground but is glued to the four sides. Using the same assembly technique lends itself the second method of assembly.

Not having done this myself, I can't advise which way is best. I'm just bringing up things to consider.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I finally finished all the cement mortar work. Tired! Will take pictures tomorrow to show what I achieved till date. What took time was the curing period before I could remove the scaffolding of the 2 beams it was necessary to cast. The next job I must finish is chipping the concrete roof of the aquarium to enable me to attach white vitreous tiles on its surface. I use the tiles as my reflecting surface. 

The glass for the bottom has been delivered, that goes in first, its 12mm transparent.


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## jaidexl (Jan 20, 2007)

In the future, if you don't want to wait for cement to harden, mix in some quick set hydraulic cement. By itself, it'll harden in a few minutes. We use it to plug up "seepers" in pool shells, where the gunite crew shoots the shell but allows groundwater to seep up through the floor before it dries. careful what ratio you use though, close to 50/50 concrete + quickset won't give you much time to work with it. I do about 80/20 when I need time to poor bigger volumes and smooth it out.


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## Travis.808 (Apr 2, 2009)

Pictures?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I did not realise how tired I was yesterday. I got up 2 hours later than my normal time, and even then did not feel fresh, in fact my body felt leadened and all my actions lethargic. Breakfast and several cups of tea took me through the morning chores. So now feel more the thing, took some quick pictures (not good ones but these will do to give an idea of what I am trying to do. You will see part of my existing tank, "Incomparable", on one side.

View from inside my den:-


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

.................. and view from the terrace:-


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## mellowvision (Jun 18, 2007)

wish they made em like that here


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## Travis.808 (Apr 2, 2009)

Looks pretty cool! So is this gonna have an exposed top to the outside of the house?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

As the rear faces the East; I have the option to allow in the morning sun into the aquarium. I have the same facility in the aquarium besides this one (the one I call 'Incomparable'). Then I also have a glass in aluminum frame hatch to close the rear top, as you see in the pictures.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Being retired and with 6 dogs, numerous planted tank and my garden to look after, new projects only get so much time as I can spare. The type of work next on the project show what enthusiasm will be applied. As the work was chipping the roof of tank in preparation for the glazed tile work later - I did it in bits and pieces just before bath, as chipping showered me with bits of sand and grit every time brought the hammer into play on the chisel. Now that's behind me- you will see better progress. If you compare the following picture with the second-last that I had earlier attached you will find what I have done last week.


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

That's a pretty cool tank. So are you just depending on the natural light for these tanks?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Tex Gal said:


> That's a pretty cool tank. So are you just depending on the natural light for these tanks?


Thank you.

Not exactly "depending" but keeping the option. I shall be installing 800 Watts of light MH & Florescent.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I hated that chipping work so it took a lot of time. I did the plaster of Paris work preparing the masonry surface to take the glass and finished it today.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

As the plaster of Paris cured; I took up the work of making the hatch doors. The rear hatch door is in place. The glass chosen for this is a half mirror with the mirror side facing the tank, the hatch opens outwards and hangs. This choice gives me several options - closed, it allows part of the natural light (including direct sunlight) in and also traps most of the aquarium artificial lights; while open I can get a lot of natural light including some reflected in by the mirror.

Today's Sunday, so let me see if I can get a couple of helping hands today, if so I can have the bottom glass laid today.


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## northtexasfossilguy (Mar 6, 2009)

Wow, that looks like a museum quality installation you've got there.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I have yet to organize some helping hands for the bottom glass. Meanwhile the front hatch gets put into place, it is yet incomplete as the fittings on it can only be completed after I complete the glazed tile work. The rear of the hatch is a full mirror as I want the entire area of the aquarium top to be reflective. This mirror also ensures that the indirect natural light from the rear hatch is directed to the rear wall of the tank.

I also installed the fan for the aquarium cooling.

I have lots of promises for helping hands this weekend ............. so lets see if I can get some of the glasses up.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Got the sun back after 4 days, so took this picture which demonstrate the light entering from the rear hatch and being reflected by the mirror behind the front hatch.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

The helping hands arrived but the time was spent more on discussions about the tank than work on the tank. I did take advantage of the hobbyist to get the bottom glass on the floor of the tank - but that's about all as all thoughts of silicone work disappeared once I found that I have a slight problem.

The floor is level. The glass does fit. The problem is that the right side inner corner is an inch deeper (more behind) than the left corner. I need to fill this gap before doing the silicone work that's all. So I have left the glass in place and have masked its rear with tape. The other masking tapes on the walls and floor are for the spillage of silicone when I take up that work. I will fill the gap with epoxy putty today and let that cure with the glass in place.

I am also adding a schematic cross section drawing (not to scale) to allow you to picture exactly what I am trying to build.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

So the bottom glass is now in place and I took the liberty to climb on top of it and walk all over it. Now I weigh 100 Kgs. so my foot will create a dynamic difference of pressure under it which will be much more than the dead weight of substrate and water. The glass did not crack. So I would expect it to be safe enough to go to the next stage.


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Wow! You really get a sense of size seeing you sitting in there. You are so talented to be able to do this work. It's really going to be nice.


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## Veloth (Jun 25, 2008)

This is an interesting build. I check daily for updates. Keep up the great work.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

The rear glass was delivered. I first put it in and placed it against the rear to see its fit. No problems. Next was to mask the tank side edges, I want these virgin from silicon so when I ultimately seal the tank with silicone; the sealing silicone will not be interfered with by any old paste.

Next job was preparing the rear of the glass (the wall side). Keeping the edges free, I used silicone to attach a 4mm thick polyester pad with light touches of silicone. Next the glass goes back to the tank, a thick bead of silicone is applied to the edges and the glass is firmly pushed against the wall. Then I rest there with my back firmly against the glass. There was no danger of the glass falling back as the silicone had already started to cure but still I use some duck tape to be doubly sure. 

Morning - I inspect my handy work and remove the duck tapes.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Most large aquarium have bracing for safety; why should this tank be different. For the safety of the front (viewing) glass I have external bracing in form of a frame made from 2.25" wide and 0.75" thick black granite fixed to the masonry sides. I put this up today as without it I could not take the measurements of the side glasses.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I got the left side lined with glass using the same method as the rear glass. This glass had to have the right upper corner cut off to accommodate the beam below the front hatch door. The glass on the right has to go through the same treatment with the addition of being drilled.

The preparation before the next stage delays the speed of work especially when you are in need of helping hands.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

The right side glass is ready, I have cut the corner and tested the glass by keeping it where it would ultimately go - result acceptable. I then drilled 2 holes, 3" apart at a height which is just above the top stone frame member of the front glass. These holes are meant to take the overflow from the tank into the sump that I intend to create in the storage area next to the tank. I placed the glass against the masonry side of the tank and marked the position of the holes for drilling. 

Tomorrow it is going to be a hammer and chisel day as I carve out the 1" diameter hole through the wall. The only thing that I feel happy about this evening is that the wall is only 5" brick work.


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## armedbiggiet (May 6, 2006)

wish you would build one that is all the way to the floor soon, which is what I want to do in my basement. Can we see what is the entire room like with the 2 tanks?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

^ Actually this is the 6th tank in the room. Will show you the room in another thread soon.

The 2 holes are done. I cheated used a drill instead of the hammer and chisel. 

Hope I have help tomorrow to fit the glass.


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## Tex Gal (Nov 1, 2007)

Can't wait to see the room! How do you have time for them all?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Tex Gal said:


> Can't wait to see the room! How do you have time for them all?


I have retired from active life, and so if it was not my tanks, dogs, and garden, I will have nothing to do. This way I am having more fun than I ever had in my life (that does not mean my active life was not entertaining but there was a burden of accountability there which does not exist any longer).


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I made a mess with the third glass.

I attached the pad on the wrong side and had to correct it. This left a lot of silicone paste smeared on the glass. Now I have to spend a lot of elbow grease scraping the silicone off with a shaving blade.

Anyway the third side is now glass lined and the pipes have freely been inserted - that job is done. Now only the beam under the front hatch door requires to be lined with glass. I have taken the measurements and ordered the glass hope it gets delivered early today for me to finish this part of the job.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I cleaned up the mess I had created yesterday.

The 2 glass strips that I had ordered were delivered and I managed to complete the glass lining work as I had a 2 helpers today.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Started the tile job, slow going as lots of tile cutting involved. Hope to finish tomorrow. These white glazed tiles will act as the reflector. I have put the cooling fan in place although it won't be necessary till next summer.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Finished the tile job. Tomorrow will be a real clean up job as I have smeared so much cement all over the place that a major work awaits me. Please wish me patience as if I am hasty I am sure to mess up something.


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## Medaka (Sep 14, 2009)

Nice work! I haven't ever seen how in-wall concrete tanks are made. I love watching your progress, and can't wait to see the final result.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Finished the cleanup without messing up anything.

Found that I had to clean up my tool room too. Tomorrow, being the 17th day of September, it is the day dedicated to the Celestial Artisan - namely Vishwakarma - (transliteration Universal Constructor). All of us who work with tools and machines venerate Him and in mark of our respect clean our tools etc. and also the work place. Some go to the extent of installing and idol and praying to Him, I don't. The funny thing here in India is that the cult of Vishwakarma is followed by all sects, even non-Hindus including Muslim artisans (perhaps as it provides a tools down period).

So no progress should be expected on the GLMT for the next 2 days. On Friday I shall construct my in-tank version of the Rex Grigg reactor.


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## murdocmason (Aug 17, 2009)

all i have to say is bravo man that looks awesome, I only wish i had the masonry skills to do something like that in my basement, maybe one of these days lol but until then ill just have to admire guru's like yourself =) props again essa looks great

xXDOCXx


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

My version of intank Rex Grigg reactor is in and all that is left to do with it is the plumbing. Before I do that I must build the sump filter as it is going to use the returning water.

I built the reactor using strip of 3.5 inch glass siliconed to the rear corners of the tank. This gives an area of the triangle formed equivalents to the cross-section area of a 2.0 inch diameter pipe. As I would not like my fishes to enter the reactor, I have put a screen over the outlet which is merely a 1.0 inch hole. I made the screen out of the intake grid of the pumps that I had adapted for aquarium use. The pumps that I use for aquarium are not on aquarium supply list, but are manufactured in India for general purpose and have a ceramic magnet, therefore quite safe for aquarium use and also economical and long lasting (I don't know why aquarium goods are overpriced). I cut of the excess and then used epoxy putty to form the base. Silicone does not hold on to plastics but does hold epoxy putty well.

For the top, I took measurement after placing the 3.5 inch strip in place. Actually made a template out of thick paper and then cut the glass accordingly. Drilling a hole in a small piece of glass needed some helping hands to hold the glass. I siliconed this to the top of the 3.5 inch strip and left it overnight to cure.

I fitted the inlet pipe (which went in tight through the hole in the triangle glass) and fixed it with synthetic rubber adhesive using rings that I had sliced out of a socket. I wanted the pipe to end high up in the reactor so that the water current can scrounge the CO2 bubbles that manage to rise to the top of the reactor. I made a hole on the elbow fitting for the top and inserted a gas pipe down to the mouth of the elbow. This should place the gas pipe end close to the mouth of the inlet pipe of the reactor, a natural venturi point, and I hope to get a lot of small bubbles out from it when in use, although that not matter much in the Rex Grigg type of reactor.

I hope all of you appreciate the visual result despite the bad photography.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

My order for the light fittings were deliver last evening so back to the GLMT for execution of the work at hand.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I did put up the MH fittings but as I am waiting for replacement of one of the bulb holders could not complete the job. I am getting impatient too.

When I was putting up the light fittings in the twin tank - Incomparable - 7 years ago, I did not realise what I was doing wrong. This time I have corrected (over corrected??) my mistake. I am posting a picture of the fittings in the Incomparable and the GLMT for comparison.


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## cam191919 (Nov 8, 2009)

looks good so far


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

The glass ordered finally arrived, badly cut and with sharp edges. The glass for the sump after being ground to remove sharp edges has been silicone pasted and what better place to do it in but inside the tank to which it will act as the dedicated sump. There it will out of the way while I work on the plumbing, reflooring, and repainting the broom cabinet to convert it into the sump cabinet. I plan to put all the MH ballast (5 of the GLMT and 5 of the incomparable) in that cabinet. Remember I have an eight inch diameter fan connected on one side to the GLMT (and through it to the Incomparable) and the sump cabinet.

Size 42" X 18" X 18" but I intend to keep the water level at 12".


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Can a screw, screw up your working? Yes! I found that out the hard way.

The MH fittings that I had acquired online for the GLMT had very good looks, light and were most probably sourced from China, manufactured to American standard. The bulb holders were in pairs for the two ended bulbs neatly built ceramic that were attached to the body of the fittings – with screws. 

The holders felt loose to touch and that I thought was due to loosening of the screws from the vibrations of transit. One of the holder had even come off and broken, I had complained about it and the seller had couriered the replacement promptly. Not expecting any problems, I tried to tighten them using a driver. It was then I found out that some of the screws were too short and just made it to the screw housing of the body of the fittings. I needed longer screws.

Taking one of the screws to match the thread, I searched all the places of the town for the size I needed, I was willing to accept even longer ones for I could always trim them to size, but the thread had to be the same. The thread stumped all my sources as it was American standard and the screws used in this country were usually of British standard. The thread had to be matched; the screw housings were raised tubular structures made of what looked like antimony; too fragile to be tapped to change the thread. The other alternative was using a slimmer, longer screw and then drill through the housing and using a nut on the outside of the body of the fitting. An unacceptable alternative, to be accepted only as a last resort, for it would open out unprotected spots which would corrode in the high moisture atmosphere of the aquarium top, with time. Unless I could match the thread, I was screwed.

A friend was going to Kolkata (Calcutta) to get some supplies for his business and offered to get me the screw if it was available there. Beggars cannot choose, I put the work on GLMT on hold, and decided to wait for the screw. 

It finally arrived yesterday and now the MH are wired and tested and working. My heart is working too, and I now intend to finish the rest of the work


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## Bunnie1978 (Sep 29, 2009)

For the bottom and sides, maybe you should use something more flexible than glass, like lexan? I dont' know if you got everything yet, but any bit of pressure from a non-perfectly level surface could cause you problems. 

Whole thing looks fantastic!


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

When I decided to add the GLMT, I also decided to reorganise the wiring of all my tanks. All the wires that lead to the tank that I have named “Incomparable” went through the GLMT so I was forced to rewire that tank. This requirement caused quite a delay in completion of the GLMT. 

My scheme of reorganisation of the wiring comes from the necessity of relaxing my very strict routine chores. I have decided to use timers for the lights, CO2, and aeration. I have decided to divide the light wires – part of lights will have backup from the inverter – the rest will only be powered when the generator comes on for the longer power outages. All the heaters have to be supplied by a power line without any backup. This means that there are five separate phase lines with one common neutral going to every tank, and another phase line for the solenoid of the CO2.

The six phases:-

1)	Red wire – No backup power line – For the heaters.
2)	Blue wire – Generator backup and photoperiod timer – 2/3 of the lights in each tank.
3)	White wire – Inverter, generator, & photoperiod timer – 1/3 of the lights in each tank.
4)	Green wire – Inverter, generator constant line – For the filter power-heads.
5)	Yellow wire – Inverter, generator & night timer – For the aerations.
6)	Brown wire – Inverter, generator & CO2 timer – For the CO2.

I shall need just 2 timers for this scheme to be possible. I shall use the timers only to run three relays. This will keep the loads on the timer low. The photoperiod timer shall run two separate relays one to connect the blue wires on its on period and the other relay connecting the white wires. The CO2 timer will run a single relay; it will connect the green wire to the yellow wire through NC and the brown wire through the NO.


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## Gordonrichards (Apr 28, 2009)

I love your tank, it will be a monster! I have a question though.
When the mh lights are on it looks like the two on the sides are directed twords the middle three ballasts. Will this not heat the middle ballasts?


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

The wiring is finished. The ballast of both the tanks, GLMT and the Incomparable, are in the sump room. You see the fan which will keep the 2 tanks cool.


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## Gordonrichards (Apr 28, 2009)

Ahha! Very nice, excellent work!


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

The GLMT is finally a tank. The viewing glass is in position and I will only have to wait for the curing to take place before testing it with water. Meanwhile I must work to complete the sump and the timer system. I shall also have to wire the sump room for lights and the sump pumps, heaters, aerators etc.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

I just filled it up with water to just below the sump overflow level. Now I will spend the next 24 hours with my fingers crossed (for the entire period when I am not working on the sump).

Wish me well.


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## essabee (Oct 11, 2006)

Well, nothing has broken as yet. I can uncross my fingers and not look suspiciously at the GLMT. Now to finish the sump and the timer circuits. I wish to add a 10% daily water change to the GLMT.


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