# Help Choosing a Wet/Dry filter



## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Since a Wet/Dry filter system is totally new to me. I figured I would ask the members here for some help in choosing one 

I just became the new owner of a 120g (4'x2'x2') pre-drilled dual overflow tank. I think the tank is an All-Glass tank but I can't confirm this yet. It isn't going to be a full on planted tank but instead will be an African Cichlid tank with small "Plant Friendly" species like Paracyprichromis nigripinnis, Neolamprologus caudopunctatus, Neolamprologus multifasciatus and hopefully some Cyprichromis 'Blue Flash' in the future. It will have some Bolbitis, Anubias, and possibly Vals or Java Fern in it also.

I don't really have the time to DIY a Wet/Dry filter even though I have a 30g tank for the basic sump body. I am leaning towards the Marineland Tidepool II for it's inexpensive price, though I know this would be a big waster of CO2 if I decide to turn the tank into a planted tank in the future (which is always a possibility) 

What are your opinions on the Marinland Tidepool II?

Is it a good wet/dry or can I find something better in the same price range? Price is an issue and I would like to stick to the $150-$200 range since I will be needing to purchase a pump for the filter also.

Thanks and any help will be appreciated!


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## onemyndseye (May 12, 2006)

any Wet/Dry is gonna gas off CO2 because of the "dry" part of the filter. Also it is arguably not enough to be concerned about.....

That being said..

Dude... if you already have a 30G thats not in use you can save yourself $100+ (and have a much more ideal setup) by just buying a peice of plexi to devide the tank into a filter section and a sump section.... drill alot of small holes in the divider afew inches off the tank floor. Now one more peice of plexi to fit in the rim of the tank and cover the filter and a PVC fitting to plumb it in and your done. You can even get fancy and drop in a drip pan for more mechanical filtration.

Whole project could literally take you 1 hour.... maybe.

Now when your using it for normal Wet/Dry use fill the Sump to about 1/2 or 3/4 full so that some of your biomedia is above the water...

If you convert to a plant tank (this is where that much more ideal setup part comes in) you can run the system with the sump 100% full... submerging all or most of your biomedia and sparing as much CO2 as possible in the process.

Something to think about anyways 

Take Care,
-Justin
One Mynds Eye


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Thanks for the response Justin! I have discounted the Tidepool II just for the fact that it is possible I will convert this into a planted tank at some time in the future. I imagine the Bio Wheel will outgass the CO2 more than I would like for a planted tank. 

I have located a used acrylic sump and bio box for $50 that is nearby. That should save me a bit of hassle in trying to build one. This unit has a "bio box" that sits on top of the sump and can be removed easily in the future if I decide to convert the tank into a fully planted one.


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

onemyndseye said:


> a... you can run the system with the sump 100% full...
> 
> ...


I'd recommend against running a sump 100% full. You need to leave enough free volume in it to handle any overflow box volume and return siphon in case the return pump stops for any reason... avoids wet floors...


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Laith said:


> I'd recommend against running a sump 100% full. You need to leave enough free volume in it to handle any overflow box volume and return siphon in case the return pump stops for any reason... avoids wet floors...


Should I eventually convert this into a planted tank (gotta love that 24" depth) I would probably only raise the sump level to about 75% to account for any power outages and back flow. I have a built in overflow in each corner of the tank and guestimate thay hold maybe 5g each. I also have a check valve to place into the return plumbing so that should help somewhat.

I'm sure this is going to be fun to set up as it is my first experience with a wet/dry filter or sump!


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## diablocanine (Jul 25, 2004)

Fellowship of the Fish :: View topic - 003 - 110 gallon Discus Tank Sump [ Guest ]

You can come see if you get around Indianapolis......DC


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## erik Loza (Feb 6, 2006)

Those plants you have listed are not heavy CO2 users, so the wet/dry should not be an issue if you are injecting gas. Vouch here for the Marineland Tidepool units. I had about five years experience with those on a commercial basis and they are simple, reliable units. My only complaint was the occasional "groaning" sound they made as they were rolling over. I would have no hesitations about using them in a sump-based setup. Good luck.


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## fantasticaqua (Jun 20, 2006)

Why not just go with a bigger canister like an fx or an eheim 3?


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

fantasticaqua said:


> Why not just go with a bigger canister like an fx or an eheim 3?


Good question!

This is not going to be an all out planted tank but an African Cichlid tank with a few hardy plants, maybe a biotope type of tank.  There will be no CO2 injection and lighting will simple be three 40w T-12 tubes (maybe T-8 tubes). I already have enough work with 3 large (my smallest is a 50g) high light CO2 injected tanks running. I'm looking for an easy setup with some hardy fish...something that can take some neglect for those times when life gets in the way of the hobby 

Here are my reasons for not using a canister filter:

1 - The tank is already drilled and has dual overflows in each corner. I would either need to block those off to use a canister filter or plumb them into a canister.

2 - If I have to go through the bother of plumbing a canister, why not use a sump in the first place? I can add weekly ferts to the sump and hide all of the equipment in the sump also. This sump should be fairly easy to convert to CO2 if the tank ever goes to a fully planted tank.

3 - I found a used sump locally for $40 with the media. I know I won't find a large cannister filter for anywhere near that kind of price 

4 - I have never used a sump or wet/dry before so it will be a good learning experience for me. It's nice to try something new once in a while.


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## fantasticaqua (Jun 20, 2006)

Good Answer!!!  
Just askin', I prefer canisters on my freshwater tanks. That's the only reason I asked.


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

I've always used canister filters also and just want to try something different for a change


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## Laith (Sep 4, 2004)

The consensus (and I tend to agree) is that on large tanks a sump is a better option. I'm looking into setting up a 1,400 (370g) liter African Cichlid tank and was considering using canisters on it. It started getting ridiculous trying to combine the number of canisters I thought were necessary...

I want no heaters in the tank so that meant "thermo" eheims. Was actually looking at installing two of the new Eheim 2180s (that's the 2080 with integrated heating) plus another canister to get the type of filtration volume I think is necessary.

The sump won out!  Now I'm having a real learning experience trying to match overflow flow rates with the right diameter piping with the right powered return pump...  . It's my first sump experience too (another virgin!  ).


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## MatPat (Mar 22, 2004)

Laith said:


> The consensus (and I tend to agree) is that on large tanks a sump is a better option.


I'm not sure if it is true or not, but I agree 



Laith said:


> Now I'm having a real learning experience trying to match overflow flow rates with the right diameter piping with the right powered return pump...  . It's my first sump experience too (another virgin!  ).


The learning expereince is mainly why I decided to go with a sump. Matching flow rates is going to be fun, I'm sure. The pump (Mag 24) should be here by Friday so maybe this weekend I will get a chance to work on the tank some more. Let's hope I can throttle the pump back enough to get a decent flow rate without blowing the substrae all over the tank!

Good Luck Laith!


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